DIY Man Cave / She Shed - Part 18 - Making The Door (2 of 2)
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
- Here, I line both sides of the door frame using OSB, insulate using loft insulation, waterproof using heavy duty plastic sheet and clad using feather edge boards.
Хобби
Thank you for all your videos in this series, I'm currently building my own 12x10ft shed from scratch and your videos have been a fantastic resource 😎👍🏼
Delighted to hear it Ian. Thanks for dropping by. Best wishes, Des
First class job, a great tutorial. I really appreciate your time putting these videos together.
You're very welcome! Take care my friend, Des
This is great thanks, really helping me out building my own little bike cave!
Glad I could help! Best wishes, Des
15:56 lol…. 😂 mate this is such a great project making something similar myself so I need to get some videos made and uploaded to my channel.
Thanks very much for dropping by my friend. Apreciate your kind words. Best wishes, Des
Fantastic job, 10/10 it's been very enjoyable to watch
Thank you for your wonderful feedback. Makes it all worthwhile. ATB, Des
Awesome job. Looks like it could almost survive a nuclear war. Top work👍
Much appreciated
that's looks great dez
Cheers buddy. Thank you.
Coming along nicely. Should last for many years. What is the shed gonna be used for
Hiya buddy. Storage, small workshop, quiet time, projects, etc. ATB, Des
Hi, great video, nice and slow so we can follow! Very nice to see the detail which is often overlooked. Not sure if I missed it, did you use a door lining? I've seen the other question about door opening outwards and your replies. Off to find a secure outward opening hinge now if they exist! Or could I do as you did and 'ruin' the screw tops?
Hi there and thanks for dropping by. Yes, there was a door lining exactly the same as the walls - no different. The trouble with having hinges on the outside is that they can be unscrewed unless you 'ruin' the top. However, yopu may still be able to have an outward opening door with the hinges on the inside depending on how the door fixes into the frame. Have a play, it may work for you. ATB, Des
since door open inwards and you used featheredge to clad it do you get any rain leaking in at foot of door?
None at all which actually surprised me. We've had some intense downpours and I have been monitoring this. Good point. ATB, Des
My door needs to open outwards and was wondering if there would be any issues with putting the hinges on the outer side, underneath the feather edge boards? Great work
Hi there, yes it is doable but you would need to move the hinges on both the door and the frame in order to re-position the door . This could save you lot of space. Best wishes, Des
I appreciate the upload... but a question.. what was the rationale with having the door open inwards? ... was there a specific reason as I would have thought that outward would save shed space... This is not a criticism just a question. Thanks again for the vids.
Good question. (1) personal choice (2) hinges would need to be on the outside so less secure - loads of sheds out there with hinges like this which can just be unscrewed (3) I though there might be a problem with the cladding on the door hitting the cladding on adjacent walls. They're the 3 top reasons why. However, a skilled joiner / carpenter may be able to circumvent the last 2 issues. Hope this helps, Des
Hi really helpful video thanks but I was wondering do you need the plastic and the waterproof and breathable membrane?
I am just starting my shed and have breathable membrane coming. So guess I’m asking is the breathable membrane waterproof (as they say they are) So if so is plastic needed needed for proper waterproofing? and if plastic is needed will there be condensation build up in the shed over time as not as breathable?
Hi there and so sorry for late reply. If you're installing a breathable and waterproof membrane on the exterior as I have done then you will ONLY need to fit a plastic sheet (i.e. non-breathable and waterproof plastic sheet) on the inside IF you are insulating the build. The reason is quite simply to stop moisture in the air (i.e. from breathing and any heat source) penetrating the insulation, getting trapped and causing build up of damp and mould. Hope this helps, Des
Thanks caveman
Great advice am going to insulate later after the build, so will add extra layer when I start that stage
Thanks again 👍
Your shed has shown me what a piss poor job my builders did. You are a professional. My builders are cowboys in comparison . Excellent man cave.
You're kind words are very inspirational. Thank you so much. It's by no means perfect but at least I know what I've done and I am confident that this build will stand the test of time. Best wishes, Des
You sure your not locking someone in there because nobody is getting in or out 😂. Looks good!
Ha, ha. Could go either way mate! Lol. Take care, Des mate
Hi,what is the tool you used to staple membrane in ?
Here we go .......
www.amazon.co.uk/Tacwise-A11-Type-Hammer-Tacker/dp/B003OWR2HA/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=tacwise+stapler&qid=1591705346&sr=8-8
what tool belt are you using? Does it have a holster for a drill?
Here we go .....
studio.ruclips.net/user/videoZ7wRX8ieriY/edit
Why not do feather boards on door horizontal to match the shed ?
Yep, that would also have worked well but I preferred to do them vertical instead. ATB, Des
Are you gonna be putting electrics in
I was going to (and that option is still open) although I'm not sure it's entirely necessary at the moment. Des
It seems a bit odd to me to use plastic on both sides of the door. You will just end up locking moisture in.
Hiya buddy. Nope. Plastic on the internal side and waterproof, breathable membrane on the outside - the same as the walls. ATB, Des
loads of work gone into this shed, but it will last many years :-)
Hopefully Gazza. But I'll have moved on a long time by then my friend. Hope you're OK. Des
BTW. I would have also used the expanding foam in your outhouse - perfect for that sort of a job. Also agree that for under a tenner (if you're patient) the gun is an absolute bargain. I recall being rather seasick after watching your vid though Gazza ;?) lol
i am thinking about insulting the outhouse roof, and maybe the outer wall, its really cold in there, which also makes my kitchen really cold :-( another little job for me to think about.My camera action was defo a bit shaky on that video lol.
Great job on the door - really like how you covered up the lock with the boards. I recently added some garage door shoot bolt locks to a door I have for added security after a friend had their shed door kicked in with a lock like yours on.
They can be bought keyed alike and are pretty cheap for the extra security they offer as you can fix them in several positions for example top and bottom going into the roof/floor, which would have saved my mates shed door I think.
They are designed for up and over garage doors but people often use them for wooden doors and you can get longer key versions should you need them for thicker frames.
Plenty of places online sell them, I found ebay best for price. Enfield are supposedly the "best" ones and the original make. Here is a link to similar ones on Amazon:
www.amazon.co.uk/Asec-HS1829-Garage-Door-Lock/dp/B004ULMMXI
And a video of them being installed on a garage door by a fellow RUclipsr (Previously recommended):
ruclips.net/video/kn5qd-_1JC8/видео.html
That RUclipsr has a lot of really good garage/shed security (and general security) videos that are worth a look through:
ruclips.net/user/ultimatehandymansearch?query=security
He has one on his channel about removing screws that have 'screwed' (excuse the pun) heads that might be useful should you ever need to remove them. A few drops of Loctite Thread Locker on them would be a good addition from a security viewpoint.
This video of his covers various nut locking methods:
ruclips.net/video/oP4KGKEJM8Y/видео.html
Looking forward to the rest of the videos in this series!
Hiya buddy. Will be checking out your links this evening. Greatly appreciate your support and feedback mate. Appreciated, Des