DIY Man Cave / She Shed - Part 18 - Making The Door (1 of 2)
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- Опубликовано: 31 янв 2020
- Here I make an incredibly strong door frame using C18 construction timber, long screws and steel angle brackets. This puppy ain't gonna sag any time soon!
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Really clear instructions. Thanks for taking the time to make it
You're very welcome! Best wishes, Des
Well done, watching whilst I'm in the birthing unit with my wife in the early stages of labour hahaha. Thanks for keeping me awake!!
Hey buddy. What an amazing comment. Lol. Tha'ts wonderful my friend and really made me smile. I hope the birth goes easily and baby and mother both well. I wish you and your family the very best of health and happiness in the years to come my friend. My channel is always available 24/7 and may come in useful during those sleepless nights to come. Thanks for writing - great to hear from you. ATB, Des
Coming on really nice! Well done!
Thank's very much. It's actually now complete but just trying to catch up on the video editing. Thanks for you patience. Des
Enjoyed your video, many thanks.
good work des looking forward to see the end product
Thank's very much. It's actually now complete but just trying to catch up on the video editing. Thanks for you patience. as always. Des
Hello Des, when checking for square I would have been measuring the diagonals rather than relying on a square. Also, it’s a good idea to clamp the wood flat when screwing as it’s easy to put a twist in the structure. Keep up the good work.
Good point. ATB, DES
love the look of you shed, im building one myself. would it not be much easier to use lumber or siding to reinforce the door from the sides inside of running those 6 inch screws from the insides.
Good to see an update on the shed. If you could include a rough cost of the door that would be great. This is a job I need to do this summer but was quoted silly money to have it done, hundreds of pounds per door! Needless to say I will be doing it myself, hopefully for a fraction of the cost, perhaps all of them for less than the price of one that I was quoted.
Hi there. Will address that in a Q & A session after series completed. There's no way I'd pay £100's for a door mate - unless it was for my house. If you've got a few basic tools and you're quite handy you can make a cracking one yourself cheap as chips. Have a great day. Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thanks for the reply and for comment about addressing the costs in a Q&A. I agree the prices being quoted are mind boggling, I said to the guy I assume that is the cost for all of them? When they replied, no that is per door with furniture for the door extra, I said thanks but no thanks!
I will be looking forward to the rest of the series!
I would say that painting the cut ends with preservative may have been a good idea. Stealth Nurse Kathy had an allotment which had a shed on it made entirely of doors.
Hiya Ade. Can never have enough preservative mate. ATB, Des
I was going to buy 2x2 but looking at how rigid this turned out think I'll go for the 3x2 thanks for posting this video some really great tips also, Jim
My pleasure James. Glad it helped. 3 x 2 is the way to go. For the minimal additional cost it's simply not worth it to go less than this. Take care, Des
It depends on the size of the structure. I used 2x2 and it’s solid.
i've just built a man cave and all has gone well but i'm struggling with the hinges , i seem to have gaps in the door so i have draughts coming in , i was hoping you would show me in this video , do you have a hinge fitting video please , thx
Hi Des a question regarding your mitre saw as I bought the exact same one after watching a video you did on it. I noticed recently mine isn’t cutting perfect 90 degrees and just wondered if you had the same problem and if so how to rectify it
Hiya buddy. Mine's been fine to be honest. Just refer to the instruction manual mate. It's straightforward. You just need to rotate the knob thing at the back and lock it down. ATB, Des
21st Century Caveman thanks for the reply. I’ll take a look and see if I can figure it out
Hi. I need to build a new door for my shed. What is the best way to measure to know the size of the frame? If I measure the size of the opening where the door will go, do I need to deduct any space for the door to open correctly? Thanks
Hi there. Good question. This is what I do (there may be better ways). Firstly, it's important to mention that your existing framework may not be square so you should always work on the smallest measurements (i.e. if top is 900mm wide and bottom is 850mm wide you need to use the 850mm measurement).
1. measure frame opening in 3 different places (width and height)
2. use smallest measurements
3. deduct @15mm overall on width and height for door to open (you my need to deduct more if you're using very thick timber
4. knock up first draft of frame to required measurements and gauge from there
5. construct final draft of frame
6.any major gaps between door and frame - can you use sealing strips to reduce draughts?
Hope this helps. Good luck,
Des
Hi m8 great Job. Im doing something similar and im at the door stage. Im wondering why you didn't use a door frame? Serious question as im an electrician not a joiner.
Hiya buddy. Thanks for dropping by. I'm not a joiner either mate. I did think about a door frame but what's the point?. I've strengthened the door opening to accommodate the door and can't see the point in spending extra money on a door frame and making the opening even smaller. Personal preference for me but a very valid point. Stay safe my friend. Des
Hi Des . Thank you for the excellent presentation and clear explanation of how and why you’re doing the braces in position . Can I ask , I’m going to have to build shed door for my self build shed , would it be too wide to have this at 48”, otherwise I will have to build two doors . Thank you
Maria
Hiya Maria and thanks for watching. Hmm, that's a good question. Firstly, I'm not a qualified joiner so this is just my best guess. If that were me, I would beef it up a bit. I would use slightly wider / thicker timbers for the side where the hinges will go and also for both of the diagonal braces. This should give the extra strength and support you require. Providing you use heavy duty hinges I reckon that should do the job. If you're still concerned you could also add an extra couple of hinges to the door. Note though that they will need to be butt hinges as you won't have any horizontal timbers to secure the other type of hinges to the door. Make sure you use long screws to secure the framework around the doorway and use plenty. I think that should do it. Hope this helps. Best of luck, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thank you Des for that great and detailed information . After all that today I decided to go with using the two smaller doors from my old shed , and will screw a bigger size of plywood to both of the smaller doors which were in good condition and I thought it would cut out the need for having to cut wood to size with my old circular saw . Honestly if I knew then what I know now how difficult it is to get straight cuts without proper work surface and I don’t think I would have started the shed . I’m glad I did though . Getting multi tool tomorrow to cut the edges of plywood around the frame straight and allow the door to overlap slightly on the door frame for waterproofing.
Thank you again Des I appreciate the time you took to get back to me . 🤗
My pleasure. Des
Looking good im building something similar on my channel keep up the good work 👍🏼
Hi there. Will check it out. The thumbnails look really impressive. ATB, Des
that was c16 not c18 lol
Also the width of the window and door opening and widths and lengths.
Why don’t you give the dimensions of your doors and windows?
Because there's no point. This is a one off project by a DIY person - not a tutorial in how to assemble a pre-designed kit. What may work for me may not work for another. The point of this series is to show someone how to make something similar to their own specification - not to build a replica of mine which may not suit their needs. ATB, Des
What's with the annoying camera sound?
very good job would have been stronger if doweled and glued joints
That's true for sure mate. ATB, Des