Truly appreciate your video. I need to regear a 77' wagoneer D44. My Dad has always done it, and it would be nice to do it myself. Your video truly helps give that confidence.
Adam, nice job on the video. I'm teetering on whether I do this job myself. I'm short a hydraulic press but I can take mine to a shop to get the bearings done... I've talked to Rich about swapping out my 3.73 to 4.56 gears and getting type 4 carriers with a posi diff on my 72 Blazer. He was also recommending getting chromoly axle shafts. I'd rather not take my axles off my Blazer to do this job, but you make it look like it's a whole lot easier on the bench. There's a bit of work getting those axle shafts out and all the parts off to do that job, too...
Why did you set bearing preload with the old nut prior to installing the seal? Wouldn't that completely eliminate the bearing preload when you take it apart and require you d iit again with the new nut?
Keith McKalister Yes. I did it all one last time with the final pinion seal and nut. Was just checking that I got the amount of shims for preload correct so I didn’t have to take the new nut on and off. They are a pinch style nut generally and I try not to take them off.
Hoss, could you please tell me what was your final pinion nut torque on this dana 44. Furthermore, with your knowledge would you consider that my dana 44 rear from a 1972 cj5 jeep match the same specs of the dana 44 in this video? Over and out uncle Bud.
Hey Bud! Actually you do not set pinion nuts to a certain torque per say with a click style torque wrench. If you look at the pinion nut part I used an Inch Pound Dial type torque wrench and you put a socket on it and slowly spin the pinion and measure how much drag (pre load) that it has. I think i hit around 20 inch lbs with this, its a new bearing so i normally hug the tighter tolerances knowing things will wear in. But thats very important that you use an "INCH LB DIAL" type torque wrench. I believe they are around $35 online or so. Im sure most D44 axles have similar specs. You can look up those charts fairly easily online and most companies that sell install kits will send that spec page. www.differentials.com/technical-help-2/installation-instructions/
The pinion nut doesn’t set the preload but it still has to have a torque spec. Instructions for another brand spacer said the nut was to be torqued to 125 ft Ibs. 20in Ibs wouldnt get the pinion nut started past the mechanical locking pinch would it?
Great video. Cool music !
Truly appreciate your video. I need to regear a 77' wagoneer D44. My Dad has always done it, and it would be nice to do it myself. Your video truly helps give that confidence.
Glad that helped!
Excellent video! mesmerizing!
Dude hell yea.. great video.. definitely keep this up..
Awesome! I'm glad you like it! Hopefully I can help some people out with the things if picked up over the years!
@@AdamDeuling need more detail on pinion shimming,ect,plus, NO LOCKER.??.
thanks for the vid. I don't think I can do my gears based on just this vid, but it added some info.
Adam, nice job on the video. I'm teetering on whether I do this job myself. I'm short a hydraulic press but I can take mine to a shop to get the bearings done... I've talked to Rich about swapping out my 3.73 to 4.56 gears and getting type 4 carriers with a posi diff on my 72 Blazer. He was also recommending getting chromoly axle shafts. I'd rather not take my axles off my Blazer to do this job, but you make it look like it's a whole lot easier on the bench. There's a bit of work getting those axle shafts out and all the parts off to do that job, too...
I just swapped out the 3.55 for 4.56 gears also in my 96 Dodge ram love the torque especially with 36x15.50 Baja MTZ..
I love the 4.56 gears with my 33” tires!
Adam how do you work with610 plus control on a 10 ft press it’s the control box
Why did you set bearing preload with the old nut prior to installing the seal? Wouldn't that completely eliminate the bearing preload when you take it apart and require you d iit again with the new nut?
Keith McKalister Yes. I did it all one last time with the final pinion seal and nut. Was just checking that I got the amount of shims for preload correct so I didn’t have to take the new nut on and off. They are a pinch style nut generally and I try not to take them off.
@@AdamDeuling Great video. I was getting a refresher before I do another gearing set on a D44 this week.
Hoss, could you please tell me what was your final pinion nut torque on this dana 44. Furthermore, with your knowledge would you consider that my dana 44 rear from a 1972 cj5 jeep match the same specs of the dana 44 in this video? Over and out uncle Bud.
Hey Bud! Actually you do not set pinion nuts to a certain torque per say with a click style torque wrench. If you look at the pinion nut part I used an Inch Pound Dial type torque wrench and you put a socket on it and slowly spin the pinion and measure how much drag (pre load) that it has. I think i hit around 20 inch lbs with this, its a new bearing so i normally hug the tighter tolerances knowing things will wear in. But thats very important that you use an "INCH LB DIAL" type torque wrench. I believe they are around $35 online or so. Im sure most D44 axles have similar specs. You can look up those charts fairly easily online and most companies that sell install kits will send that spec page. www.differentials.com/technical-help-2/installation-instructions/
The pinion nut doesn’t set the preload but it still has to have a torque spec. Instructions for another brand spacer said the nut was to be torqued to 125 ft Ibs. 20in Ibs wouldnt get the pinion nut started past the mechanical locking pinch would it?