The information about the plugs is PRICELESS because many people (like myself) didn't know that, and these parts stores will sell you the single prong without hesitation. I just went to Autozone.com and looked up the plugs, 99% only had the single. Thanks Ken for that information, that helps me out a lot!!!
Astral Auto Repairs They sold me the wrong ones first. I didn't look at them when they stuck them in the box with the rest of the parts. Then I had to take them back. Once the engine is hot it will run good with the regular type of plugs in it. But the check engine light will always be on because it will have a misfire on start up. The first time I did one of those engines I put the wrong plugs in it. Thats how I know what happens with the wrong plugs.
I think you can do a Tacoma with the radiator on. You just need to be careful not to hit it, and the crank pulley can come off with a stubby impact. I think I plan to replace the radiator and hoses as maintenance anyway. Maybe even the ATF cooler lines
Hi , hey I have Toyota Tacoma 2003 2.4 4Cylinder , with 433,000 thousand miles, así have been never change the timing belt do you think it’s time to change ?
I believe you can work around the airconditioning compressor with a wobble extension [or two], and only need to remove the belt for this job. Don't like ujoint style sockets, as getting them started on the bolt is a royal pain.
Helpful thx, just bought 98 t100 has 215k runs great ,but no record of timing belt change so I'm going to inspect belt ,but figured needs changed,this be first Toyota I've owned
@@1970chevelle396 thanku my brother in law brought it up so I started looking came across your video was really good, from what I've heard supposed be really good motor and when change timing belt should be able to get 300k I think
Excellent video mister very informative especially having the motor out really puts it in perspective. Thank you very much for your time and talent! AND those double prong plugs are the cats ass...I'm changing mine out.
I was on rockauto looking as WP/TB kits for the 5vz. I noticed that kits were available for some years, for example a 2000, and the same exact kit was unavailable for different years, for example a 2002. I'm pretty sure there all the same right? I'm looking at an Aisin kit for a 4runner.
ooh ok well i never had a check engine come on except when i had to change out my charcoal canister in the back that is the only time my check engine came on. spark plugs work fine with mine single grounds didnt hurt mine
@@1970chevelle396 I used the crank bolt to rotate the engine into TDC and at one point it built up A LOT of pressure and now I cant remove it for the life of me. Any recommendations would be great. im considering towing it to a mechanic only for the impact gun smh.
@@1970chevelle396 I ordered online a "1/2" Power Bar Hand Impact Wrench" says it can get 600lbs of force im hoping this will get my bolt off and make other jobs easier.
@@1970chevelle396 This might sound crazy, but do you think I could try the bump start method to remove crank bolt with only the timing belt attached? I have already removed all accesory belts, radiator etc. Any advice would be appreciated.
Me and a friend of mine we changed my timing belt on my montero xls. One thing I reccomend is go ahead and change the timing belt tensioner. I messed up and didn't and about 2000 miles later it started making a slapping noise. I looked online the make of my car and there was a lot of people saying it was the timing belt tensioner so that's what it was. We tore it back down and changed out that and that fixed the noise. I'm at almost 208 k miles and gonna drive it til the wheels fall off. Good vehicle..little hard to work on but nothing like working on a damn land rover LOL
Stevo Only a very few times I had to replace the tensioner . Original engine has over 308K on it with original tensioner. The original engine has a head gasket problem. But with that many miles on it I wouldn't fix the head gasket thats why I replaced the engine.
I get a lot of shit over my mitisubishi but it's been a great vehicle since I bought it.I have to add some oil now and then and I know it's leaking some where just cannot figure out where. It has that plastic pan on the bottom until I remove it and park it with some card board under it I wont know LOL. I replaced the front cam seals also when I did the timing belt.
Hi there, I have a question. I have a similar engine in a 2001 Toyota Tacoma 4X4. I'm having a PO305 code which is cylinder #5. the engine has 258,000 miles, mostly highway mileage. The engine erratic at idling speed. I've checked everything, except compression and I need check to see if the timing marks line up. Can a sloppy belt or a skipped tooth on one of the camshaft give that PO305 code/ erratic idle?
I would start by changing your spark plugs and wires. My truck had 287,000 miles, when i had the same issue. The metal piece inside one of my spark plug boot's had separated from the wire, on the inside of the boot. Causing my misfire.
FYI.....Just to be on the safe side. take your old belt and count the teeth. I was doing a job once and the parts store gave me the wrong belt. Not matching the number of teeth will create a problem....JUST SAYING
ken great video looks like your staying busy...I seen your Lincoln Tig welder..it's just like mine. good machine... I've got a new video coming soon...I bought a new welder that I'm doing a review on a miller 252 MIG .. keep it up ken
Nice..I wanted the miller 350p. but didn't what to pay 2,000 dollars more for it..So I got the 252 it welds up to 1/2" in a single pass so that pretty good..
L&L welding and fabrication I was going to go with the 250 at the time. Around 8 years ago i got that 300 brand new from a welding store for $1550 because at the time it was a 5 year old model . The new one cost like $3,500
cilos c It will have a very slight misfire when its cold and you first start it. I know because I've used the single ground plugs before and had the problem.
I know from experience that you don’t need to use double ground electrodes. I’ve been running normal plugs in my Engine with no issues for probably 30K miles
I also know from experience that you have to use the double ground plugs. I’ve put regular plugs in those engines before. It causes the check engine light to come on for a misfire. It will have a very slight misfire when it’s cold when you first start it up. You can’t even tell but it causes the check engine light to come on.
1970chevelle396 I don’t doubt it, maybe I’ve just gotten lucky with mine. Honestly, when I replaced the plugs I didn’t even notice that sticker on the timing belt cover. I noticed way after the fact and figured it wasn’t a big deal because I haven’t had any issues with it.
Two times I’ve had to eat the labor when I put regular plugs in those engines. Then the customer calls me up and says the check engine light is on. The misfire is very slight. I couldn’t even tell by the way it ran. Both times I put the correct plugs in it and it solved the problem. The auto parts store both times didn’t even try to sell me the correct ones.
ooh ok well i thought about putting double grounded plug but even toyota gave me a single ground plugs. they said all it means is that the spark isnt going to be that good on a cold start but fine when it runs for a while
hi. Where did u buyed this Original Timing belt, Water pump, Tensioner Assy, Chain, termistator, other stud. Please send me Link. How much the cost $ was. please please. I need original kits. In my country always selling chineese shit garbage.
Ch Sukhee I don't know what the cost is it was all added in to replace the engine. Just go on a auto parts stores web site and look up what the parts cost.
Timing belt, pater pump, Tensioner Assy, Chain, vbelt, how many km going to change this stuff. my car is Toyota Prado 120. 5VZFE 3.4CC motor. now going 174000km. so must change the tools or just go and 200.000 km in change. My bad english lol. thank you.
Ch Sukhee, this is the kit I bought... Aisin TKT-025 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump by Aisin. On Amazon $180 us money. Many people say, it's the exact parts Toyota puts in from factory.
Mike Ferg It could go at any time and it will bend the valves. Theres no warning when there about to go. I've fixed many pf them over the years after they went.
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Toyota 5VZ-FE 3.4 are non-interference motors. If the timing belt breaks it will not bend the valves.
Im stuck on the crank shaft pully will not rotate all the way around did I fuck something up
True. Also I can say with 100% confidence early 2UZ-FE V8s are non-interference as well.
Outstanding engine I have 300,000 on my 01 4 runner doesn’t drip or burn oil . Probably one of the best v6 motor ever
I just hot 300k on my tundra and does not drip oil, amazing engine
Sir , there is not better video on youtube for replacing timing belt on those engines than this, with the engine out, thanks for taking the time
Thanks
Great video to see what it looks like outside of the truck! THank you
Awesome that the engine is down, makes it super easy to understand the location. Thanks for this.
Thank You
The information about the plugs is PRICELESS because many people (like myself) didn't know that, and these parts stores will sell you the single prong without hesitation. I just went to Autozone.com and looked up the plugs, 99% only had the single. Thanks Ken for that information, that helps me out a lot!!!
Astral Auto Repairs They sold me the wrong ones first. I didn't look at them when they stuck them in the box with the rest of the parts. Then I had to take them back. Once the engine is hot it will run good with the regular type of plugs in it. But the check engine light will always be on because it will have a misfire on start up. The first time I did one of those engines I put the wrong plugs in it. Thats how I know what happens with the wrong plugs.
Thank my friend. Now I feel I can do my own Tacoma truck. Thank you for sharing your knowledge . Your friend from Puerto Rico, Edwin
Thank You
It's a non interference engine. Pockets milled in the top of the pistons
I think you can do a Tacoma with the radiator on. You just need to be careful not to hit it, and the crank pulley can come off with a stubby impact. I think I plan to replace the radiator and hoses as maintenance anyway. Maybe even the ATF cooler lines
Hi , hey I have Toyota Tacoma 2003 2.4 4Cylinder , with 433,000 thousand miles, así have been never change the timing belt do you think it’s time to change ?
+Erickm0417 The 4 cylinder doesn’t have a timing belt. It has a chain.
1970chevelle396 really woow I’m happy now , I will save that money 👍🙏🏻 thanks for answer my question
It's always a bit of a debate over the new idlers v original ones.
ZIGgassedUP My Honda has 350,000 miles on it or 560,000 kilometers on it and I've never replaced the idlers.
Always replace idler, tensioner, can and crank seals. Buy OEM
Front oil seal
I believe you can work around the airconditioning compressor with a wobble extension [or two], and only need to remove the belt for this job. Don't like ujoint style sockets, as getting them started on the bolt is a royal pain.
Very true... however what people forget to tell you is the wobble extension has to be 1/4 drive a 3/8 drive will not fit...
Helpful thx, just bought 98 t100 has 215k runs great ,but no record of timing belt change so I'm going to inspect belt ,but figured needs changed,this be first Toyota I've owned
I would replace it no matter what the old belt looks like.
@@1970chevelle396 thanku my brother in law brought it up so I started looking came across your video was really good, from what I've heard supposed be really good motor and when change timing belt should be able to get 300k I think
Truck is clean new alternator and battery, $3k
Excellent video mister very informative especially having the motor out really puts it in perspective. Thank you very much for your time and talent! AND those double prong plugs are the cats ass...I'm changing mine out.
Thanks. I figured I could show that better with the engine out since I was replacing the engine.
I was on rockauto looking as WP/TB kits for the 5vz. I noticed that kits were available for some years, for example a 2000, and the same exact kit was unavailable for different years, for example a 2002. I'm pretty sure there all the same right? I'm looking at an Aisin kit for a 4runner.
I think the only difference is the water pump. Some of them have a place for a hose to connect to it for the oil cooler.
@@1970chevelle396 from the images, both have the oil cooler and so does the one in my t4r. Going to order it but wanted to double check. Thanks!
ooh ok well i never had a check engine come on except when i had to change out my charcoal canister in the back that is the only time my check engine came on. spark plugs work fine with mine single grounds didnt hurt mine
Me neither. Ngk iridium plugs on mine, single grounded, supercharged.. never had a check engine light.
Nice job Ken, people overlook their timing belt too often and they pay for it later. Enjoy your weekend.
Lots of useful info.
Really need more of the way that ac bracket goes back on.
How did you torque the crank bolt? Impact or torque wrench?
Impact
Are you sure about the valves burning if the belt breaks?
Not burning hitting the piston. I think this engine is actually a non interference engine. So it will be ok if the belt breaks.
Great video Ken!
thank you for the help
Having trouble removing the crankshaft bolt...can you give me an idea impact is not work and it does unscrew left loose right tight?
It unscrews counter clockwise.
@@1970chevelle396 I used the crank bolt to rotate the engine into TDC and at one point it built up A LOT of pressure and now I cant remove it for the life of me. Any recommendations would be great. im considering towing it to a mechanic only for the impact gun smh.
@@alfredonski Best way is with an impact. You might be able to loosen it by putting a wrench on it then hitting the wrench with a hammer .
@@1970chevelle396 I ordered online a "1/2" Power Bar Hand Impact Wrench" says it can get 600lbs of force im hoping this will get my bolt off and make other jobs easier.
@@1970chevelle396 This might sound crazy, but do you think I could try the bump start method to remove crank bolt with only the timing belt attached? I have already removed all accesory belts, radiator etc.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Me and a friend of mine we changed my timing belt on my montero xls. One thing I reccomend is go ahead and change the timing belt tensioner. I messed up and didn't and about 2000 miles later it started making a slapping noise. I looked online the make of my car and there was a lot of people saying it was the timing belt tensioner so that's what it was. We tore it back down and changed out that and that fixed the noise. I'm at almost 208 k miles and gonna drive it til the wheels fall off. Good vehicle..little hard to work on but nothing like working on a damn land rover LOL
Stevo Only a very few times I had to replace the tensioner . Original engine has over 308K on it with original tensioner. The original engine has a head gasket problem. But with that many miles on it I wouldn't fix the head gasket thats why I replaced the engine.
I get a lot of shit over my mitisubishi but it's been a great vehicle since I bought it.I have to add some oil now and then and I know it's leaking some where just cannot figure out where. It has that plastic pan on the bottom until I remove it and park it with some card board under it I wont know LOL. I replaced the front cam seals also when I did the timing belt.
Hi there, I have a question. I have a similar engine in a 2001 Toyota Tacoma 4X4. I'm having a PO305 code which is cylinder #5. the engine has 258,000 miles, mostly highway mileage. The engine erratic at idling speed. I've checked everything, except compression and I need check to see if the timing marks line up. Can a sloppy belt or a skipped tooth on one of the camshaft give that PO305 code/ erratic idle?
jorge hernandez Check the compression. It’s definitely not the timing belt.
I would start by changing your spark plugs and wires. My truck had 287,000 miles, when i had the same issue. The metal piece inside one of my spark plug boot's had separated from the wire, on the inside of the boot. Causing my misfire.
Thanks for your response! I did check cylinder #5 and the compression was 92 psi dry & 150 psi wet compression. I need a rebuilt or used engine.
jorge hernandez It’s best to replace the engine.
Check your cam shaft sensor.
Thanks for everything 🙏
Thanks
FYI.....Just to be on the safe side. take your old belt and count the teeth. I was doing a job once and the parts store gave me the wrong belt.
Not matching the number of teeth will create a problem....JUST SAYING
No need to take the air con pomp out just the bracket ,just hold the pump up with some wire.
190055joe I didn't say you have to disconnect the A/C lines. You do have to remove the bolts from the A/C compressor to get the bracket off.
why was i able to put my hydraulic tensioner on without compressing it, i just used the mounting bolts.
Sounds like there is something wrong with the tensioner.
@@1970chevelle396 you dont think its possible to get it tight against the belt by using the bolts without it holding pressure?
No
@@1970chevelle396 i was able to put a new one on from bottom of truck, took 10 mins so no worries now.
5vz is a non interference engine. No bent valves.
ken great video looks like your staying busy...I seen your Lincoln Tig welder..it's just like mine. good machine... I've got a new video coming soon...I bought a new welder that I'm doing a review on a miller 252 MIG .. keep it up ken
L&L welding and fabrication I also have the 140C. And the Power Mig 300. Its like the 350MP
Nice..I wanted the miller 350p. but didn't what to pay 2,000 dollars more for it..So I got the 252 it welds up to 1/2" in a single pass so that pretty good..
L&L welding and fabrication I was going to go with the 250 at the time. Around 8 years ago i got that 300 brand new from a welding store for $1550 because at the time it was a 5 year old model . The new one cost like $3,500
well im using a single ground spark plug and i dont have any problems with miss firing
cilos c It will have a very slight misfire when its cold and you first start it. I know because I've used the single ground plugs before and had the problem.
Good video man preciate you
Thank You
Not an interference engine. Valves don't bend if the belt breaks.
Seems like most of the Toyotas are non interference engines
Very Informative video and subscribed
+SOTO'S Thanks
I know from experience that you don’t need to use double ground electrodes. I’ve been running normal plugs in my Engine with no issues for probably 30K miles
I also know from experience that you have to use the double ground plugs. I’ve put regular plugs in those engines before. It causes the check engine light to come on for a misfire. It will have a very slight misfire when it’s cold when you first start it up. You can’t even tell but it causes the check engine light to come on.
1970chevelle396 I don’t doubt it, maybe I’ve just gotten lucky with mine. Honestly, when I replaced the plugs I didn’t even notice that sticker on the timing belt cover. I noticed way after the fact and figured it wasn’t a big deal because I haven’t had any issues with it.
Two times I’ve had to eat the labor when I put regular plugs in those engines. Then the customer calls me up and says the check engine light is on. The misfire is very slight. I couldn’t even tell by the way it ran. Both times I put the correct plugs in it and it solved the problem. The auto parts store both times didn’t even try to sell me the correct ones.
1970chevelle396 Good to know, I’m considering replacing mine before I have any issues
Great video
ooh ok well i thought about putting double grounded plug but even toyota gave me a single ground plugs. they said all it means is that the spark isnt going to be that good on a cold start but fine when it runs for a while
cilos c But if it has a misfire on start up it will set a code. You don't want that.
To recommend people to reuse some of those parts is wrong. The Toyota service manual specifically tells mechanics to replace them.
It’s not wrong. I’ve been a mechanic for 30 years. It’s not necessary to replace everything.
Age old debate. If it ain't broke don't fix it....while you're there might as well. I didn't replce mine the first time, 50k late the bearings went
I like them jobs they are the gravy makers.lol
hi. Where did u buyed this Original Timing belt, Water pump, Tensioner Assy, Chain, termistator, other stud. Please send me Link. How much the cost $ was. please please. I need original kits. In my country always selling chineese shit garbage.
Ch Sukhee There not original. I bought the parts just from a regular auto parts store.
how much was the cost.
Ch Sukhee I don't know what the cost is it was all added in to replace the engine. Just go on a auto parts stores web site and look up what the parts cost.
Timing belt, pater pump, Tensioner Assy, Chain, vbelt, how many km going to change this stuff. my car is Toyota Prado 120. 5VZFE 3.4CC motor. now going 174000km. so must change the tools or just go and 200.000 km in change. My bad english lol. thank you.
Ch Sukhee, this is the kit I bought...
Aisin TKT-025 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump by Aisin. On Amazon $180 us money. Many people say, it's the exact parts Toyota puts in from factory.
200k on my 4runner timing belt and still going strong lol
Mike Ferg It could go at any time and it will bend the valves. Theres no warning when there about to go. I've fixed many pf them over the years after they went.
I believe these engines are non interference?
Mike Ferg It might be non interference. Most engines are interference. It seems like most cars I've done after they broke were 4 cylinder cars.
great video