Wow - this was excellent! I'm installing a urinal using a manual flush valve. Perfect video for me - clear, concise and very articulate & user-friendly. I'm subscribing!!!
I recently learned that the red fiber gasket, once soaked with water will expand, and help create a seal. If lubed up with silicone grease, you might be able to not needed, although it's not considered standard practice.
What about the pipe coming from the wall? How do you hold the pipe coming out of the wall with a wrench to ensure it doesn’t stress the connection inside the wall when putting on the control stop. Wouldn’t the beauty sleeve prevent you from holding the wall and increase the possibility of the pipe snapping off inside the wall?
Hi thanks for your video sir.. i am a lttle confused on the video because on the flush valve picture in the begining is complately different in the end. You use manual flush valve to start and battery operated in the end.
I bought a co-op in Brooklyn, New York. very old building beautiful and sure enough it has a flush valve toilet. My question is can I replace this with a more modern flush valve, one with a seating height as the current one is low.? If so do you know a distributor in the northeast or even New York city? Thank you for the video. Happy holidays.
Capin Seaweed You have to get a toilet bowl that is compatible with a flush valve. I don’t believe that they sell them at most standard stores. And the plumbing behind the wall would need to change as well as the distance away from the wall the flange needs to be. Toilets with flash valves are different
I am installing a urinal in my home. It has a 3/4" spud for inlet water. All my copper is 1/2". If I step it up to 3/4", how long does it have to be at 3/4" in order to supply enough water for the flush valve to operate properly? Is there any chance that the existing 1/2" line will work if I put an increaser on it?
@@catlady8324 I put a 1/2" x 1/2" x 3/4" tee right before the valve connection. I teed off on 2 different 1/2" supply lines from toilet and shower. It works fine, but probably would have been better to tee off farther back so that there would be at least a couple of feet of 3/4" before the valve
MRM Thank you. Very interesting. I have a 3/4” line feeding the bathroom, but it’s not in a convent spot. The 1/2” lines are right next to the Urinal. I’m just not imagining the flush valve starving for water since many I’ve seen flush with little more than a trickle. I’m probably going to test it with a hose and 1/2” pipe restriction first.
@@catlady8324 They say that the flush valve needs more water than a 1/2" line can supply. With my setup, I have to close down the valve a lot, and it still seems like a lot more water going thru the valve than you can find in any public facility. You have to increase it up to 3/4" anyway in order to connect to the valve. I think you will be fine if you supply off of just one 1/2" line and increase it up to 3/4" for a foot or 2 before the valve.
MRM Thank you much, I’ll report back my results in the not so near future. I tested my valve and it’s stuck on. I may just buy a Sloan 180-1 one on eBay for $60 instead of rebuilding this one with Pilar Jaw marks and water stains from previous leaks. Thank you Craigslist! 😾
Dude, thank you so much for uploading this. Your videos are really detailed and valuable to an apprentice like me.
Wow - this was excellent! I'm installing a urinal using a manual flush valve. Perfect video for me - clear, concise and very articulate & user-friendly. I'm subscribing!!!
I will have this video on favorites..it will and most definitely come in handy from now in my career as a plumber
First day on the job. Thanks for saving my a$$
I recently learned that the red fiber gasket, once soaked with water will expand, and help create a seal. If lubed up with silicone grease, you might be able to not needed, although it's not considered standard practice.
Detail instruction, love it!! Thanks!
Love your video brother man
Thanks bro I learn alot
What about the pipe coming from the wall? How do you hold the pipe coming out of the wall with a wrench to ensure it doesn’t stress the connection inside the wall when putting on the control stop. Wouldn’t the beauty sleeve prevent you from holding the wall and increase the possibility of the pipe snapping off inside the wall?
how high from the finished floor you install that cold water copper stub out ? Thx !
Hi thanks for your video sir.. i am a lttle confused on the video because on the flush valve picture in the begining is complately different in the end.
You use manual flush valve to start and battery operated in the end.
good thanks what is the height of water supply from wc
Thanks, I needed that 4 3/4” water placement, how high should it be standard above the toilet?
It is usually 11-1/2 inches above the toilet.
Vivid Plumbing thanks!!
My diaphram cover won't budge...should I try squirting penetrating oil from underneath, or maybe something else?
I bought a co-op in Brooklyn, New York. very old building beautiful and sure enough it has a flush valve toilet.
My question is can I replace this with a more modern flush valve, one with a seating height as the current one is low.?
If so do you know a distributor in the northeast or even New York city? Thank you for the video. Happy holidays.
Is there no seal on the nut connecting the angle stop, to the rest of the flushometer?
Zach Hawes There’s an O-ring.
Thanks.
It as no reservoir of water?
Can I flush valve be attached to a standard household toilet
Capin Seaweed You have to get a toilet bowl that is compatible with a flush valve. I don’t believe that they sell them at most standard stores. And the plumbing behind the wall would need to change as well as the distance away from the wall the flange needs to be. Toilets with flash valves are different
Is there a way to skip soldering? Shark bite or pvc adapter?
Soldering is the only way to have it pass code in most cases.
How to you get 21/4" from finish to c of spud when bracket makes urinal fall out at 2" center of spud. Can I just install it anyway?
If the copper stub out is at 2-1/4” away from the center of drain. The flush valve will not line up.
I am installing a urinal in my home. It has a 3/4" spud for inlet water. All my copper is 1/2". If I step it up to 3/4", how long does it have to be at 3/4" in order to supply enough water for the flush valve to operate properly? Is there any chance that the existing 1/2" line will work if I put an increaser on it?
MRM What did you ever find with that?
@@catlady8324 I put a 1/2" x 1/2" x 3/4" tee right before the valve connection. I teed off on 2 different 1/2" supply lines from toilet and shower. It works fine, but probably would have been better to tee off farther back so that there would be at least a couple of feet of 3/4" before the valve
MRM Thank you. Very interesting. I have a 3/4” line feeding the bathroom, but it’s not in a convent spot. The 1/2” lines are right next to the Urinal. I’m just not imagining the flush valve starving for water since many I’ve seen flush with little more than a trickle. I’m probably going to test it with a hose and 1/2” pipe restriction first.
@@catlady8324 They say that the flush valve needs more water than a 1/2" line can supply. With my setup, I have to close down the valve a lot, and it still seems like a lot more water going thru the valve than you can find in any public facility. You have to increase it up to 3/4" anyway in order to connect to the valve. I think you will be fine if you supply off of just one 1/2" line and increase it up to 3/4" for a foot or 2 before the valve.
MRM Thank you much, I’ll report back my results in the not so near future. I tested my valve and it’s stuck on. I may just buy a Sloan 180-1 one on eBay for $60 instead of rebuilding this one with Pilar Jaw marks and water stains from previous leaks. Thank you Craigslist! 😾
Super thank you
How repair hurinari val