HowTo: "alclad II metallics" at Euro Modell Expo 2016
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Presentation of a friend of mine, Jay Laverty, at the Euro Modell Expo 2016 in Heiden. Part 1 of 3: how to work best with alclad II metallics. Thank Ron and Pete for supporting me filming spontaneously ;-)
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Please watch: "Wingnut Wings Fokker D.VII-early, 1/32, Stopmotion"
• Wingnut Wings Fokker D...
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looks great, I've never thought about using the more technical paints before but this made it look like I could at least attempt it
Hey Mate, great video except IMHO the final step in the process is where most folks make their mistake! And that's by spraying TOO MUCH PAINT!!! I barely spray it on he surfaces & then let it sit for a bit because it's then U can literally watch the magic happen!!!
And AGUAGLOSS, I've had it for a long time yet never used it. My 1st Contest I entered was a car that had a Pearl white finish. The surface wasn't smooth enough & U really can't sand Pearl or Metallic finishes, so I used the Novus 3 step. Perfectly smooth. Now I was running out of time & needed to clear-coat the paint. So I looked up fast drying Clear & the "AQUAGLOSS" popped up...OMG I was able to shoot 5-6 coats & polish between coats & finished ready for the contest in 24 hours!!! Incredible Incredible Incredible!!! The Decals I put on after 2 coats & followed up with 3-4 coats over the Decals & it Blu the judges away!!!
I built Monograms 1/48 scale B-58 Hustler, F-105 Starfighter and backdated SR-71 to exposed titanium finish. I finished them with this paint system. Even simulated different types of metals around the engines, high friction, titaniums, stainless steels in different states of oxidation. This paint is so durable you can even mask off different panels, and apply other custom tinted Aclad for other kinds of metal panels, heat stress effects and oxidation tints. Nothing showcases a cold war era bare metal jet like this paint system.
That's because it's lacquer, which always dries hard.
The Aqua Gloss really is excellent.
Hi, I have a question; I'm using the Alclad gloss black base straight out of the bottle at the recommended PSI, but I find that the base coat is not at all the mirror gloss that I had hoped it would achieve. What is the best way to spray it to achieve this effect? Would putting down a layer of primer, followed by normal glossy black enamel be a decent substitute?
I usually diluted the paint with airbrush cleaner 50/50 and spray very thin layer. Fore personally it works well...
Hi, would you know if Alclad II klear kote flat mixed in with Alclad chrome work? Just need a second opinion. They're both laquer right, but just wanted to know if you ever tried that. I'm looking for anyone whose tried it and hope they show their results.
I've used Alclad. I was really hoping to see what a good high gloss aluminum would look like. But this video doesn't show it. In fact it doesn't really show anything about the final finish, just an inordinate amount of time talking about stuff other than Alclad. Oh well.
With Alclad chrome, can it go on straight or does a black base make the chrome better?
You'll even need a glossy black base to achieve a good chrome. To get the best out of it you may polish the surface until it becomes a very shiny finish. Everything depends on a clear and shine basecoat. You might try it on a spare part first. Best regards, Tom
Yeah I have a gloss black ready to go on 1st, was not 100% though. Thanks
you're welcome - good luck
There are two exceptions: on an unprimed, light colored plastic the chrome will go on smoothly and dry quickly. I did this on the "My Favorite Martian" spaceship model kit exterior.
The other exception is if you shoot the underside of a clear part. In that case it acts like the silvering on the back of a mirror: the surface touching the clear plastic is brilliant chrome. But you can only do this to a kit that you can shoot the inside of. In my case it was a simple alien (as in the kind from Roswell, not Ridley Scott); shot the inside, put the two halves together: presto, chrome alien. Hmm...not that I think about it, how many aircraft kits are there with clear bodies?
I need advice on the micromesh, eveç after following the advice, i don't get this very high mirror finish, only a very shiny finish. Should I use a polishing compound, or is it on my side, that i didn't polish enough with the micromesh?
Did you polish from coarse to fine (3500 - 12000)? It's essential to use enough water during the process - and have patience. This way it should work...
@@TomGrigat on my test piece I did gloss black base directly on plastic, on one part start at 3500 grit, on the other i started at 6000, the 6000 one yielded much better results though. A second test was performed with same two parts but under the gloss black i applied ak primer and microfiller, which also got sanded. Although i got a really amazing result, i don't feel that for polished aluminum it was reflective enough. And yes i wet sanded for a rather long period
Could it be that you sprayed with too much air pressure? Sometimes the paint dried a bit before reaching the surface and leads to some unexpected results...
@@TomGrigat could be that, i did on a leftover just a flow test before spraying at 20 psi/1,5 bar and at 15psi/1bar, but the 15 psi gets glossier. Maybe I applied it too fast without letting it cure properly
Yes, assumingly this could be the problem. In fact it's sometimes a bit tricky to achieve the desired results. Depends on a lot of parameters: humidity, Airbrush pressure and paint itself. I personally dilute my alu a bit with the alclad Airbrush cleaner.
Alclad is enamel and not acrylic, right?
Some sort of enamel - with special formular.
@@TomGrigat they are lacquer paints
Alanuminumin
Future hasn't been discontinued, lol. These guys don't know anything about this topic.