I have done repair work on, among other things, power recliner chairs. There is the 120 cord, the transformer, the low voltage cord, the switch and the motor, and wires between. Initially, I had salvaged parts and would swap them in and out until I found what was not working. Then I got a non-contact voltage detector and it became my friend. First time I used it, I diagnosed a problem in the 120v cord and it would switch off and on when I wiggled it. Saved a lot of time.
@@BronZeage ב''ה, can't watch RUclips at decent resolution but looks like you have a multimeter including ammeter where a clamp probe will provide this feature. Never had the opportunity but I gather it's one of those electronic engineering miracles that those just work across standard meters.
@@josephkanowitz6875 @josephkanowitz6875 A good DVOM is an indispensable tool for electronic work. It does have an amp meter probe and can serve as an inline ammeter up to 10 amps.
ב''ה, might be covered as I'm only halfway through, but for trip and yank resistance, the "underwriters' knot" is what you want for standard lamp repair. In a fixture like this a plastic strain relief is also common and standard these days. There's also some kind of crimp bushings available for stranded wires for screw terminals but check what code allows, I guess.
ב''ה, since I'm dropping knowledge here, solder is great but when reckoning with wall current, the iron that melts the solder is carrying similar current, thus I'm pretty sure code favors the fully mechanical connections (wire nuts, crimps, the new lever things that may nonetheless have taken out a bridge recently) where even if a connection fails and somehow heats the wires will not come apart and risk making the situation worse. Practically speaking, a good twist does that anyway but something to keep in mind for any viewers considering burying DIY repairs in their walls or cabinetry.
@@josephkanowitz6875 in 50 years I have never seen a proper solder joint fail, but seen many wire nut connections fail due to corrosion induced resistance.
ב''ה, might be covered as I'm only halfway through, but for trip and yank resistance, the "underwriters' knot" is what you want for standard lamp repair. In a fixture like this a plastic strain relief is also common and standard these days. There's also some kind of crimp bushings available for stranded wires for screw terminals but check what code allows, I guess.
@@josephkanowitz6875 This particular fixture did not allow for an underwriters knot or cord protectors. Please see my other videos for an exhausting explanation of underwriters knots and cord protectors.
The twisting the end of stranded wire is a great tip
Thank you. It makes a real difference when using solder connections.
Always learn something from your videos
I have done repair work on, among other things, power recliner chairs. There is the 120 cord, the transformer, the low voltage cord, the switch and the motor, and wires between. Initially, I had salvaged parts and would swap them in and out until I found what was not working. Then I got a non-contact voltage detector and it became my friend. First time I used it, I diagnosed a problem in the 120v cord and it would switch off and on when I wiggled it. Saved a lot of time.
I use the non contact volt detector when doing installations because you never know if the breaker is really off.
@@BronZeage ב''ה, can't watch RUclips at decent resolution but looks like you have a multimeter including ammeter where a clamp probe will provide this feature. Never had the opportunity but I gather it's one of those electronic engineering miracles that those just work across standard meters.
@@josephkanowitz6875 @josephkanowitz6875 A good DVOM is an indispensable tool for electronic work. It does have an amp meter probe and can serve as an inline ammeter up to 10 amps.
Interesting as usual. Thank you.
@@chuckfisher2106 Thank you as well
ב''ה, might be covered as I'm only halfway through, but for trip and yank resistance, the "underwriters' knot" is what you want for standard lamp repair. In a fixture like this a plastic strain relief is also common and standard these days. There's also some kind of crimp bushings available for stranded wires for screw terminals but check what code allows, I guess.
ב''ה, since I'm dropping knowledge here, solder is great but when reckoning with wall current, the iron that melts the solder is carrying similar current, thus I'm pretty sure code favors the fully mechanical connections (wire nuts, crimps, the new lever things that may nonetheless have taken out a bridge recently) where even if a connection fails and somehow heats the wires will not come apart and risk making the situation worse. Practically speaking, a good twist does that anyway but something to keep in mind for any viewers considering burying DIY repairs in their walls or cabinetry.
@@josephkanowitz6875 in 50 years I have never seen a proper solder joint fail, but seen many wire nut connections fail due to corrosion induced resistance.
ב''ה, might be covered as I'm only halfway through, but for trip and yank resistance, the "underwriters' knot" is what you want for standard lamp repair. In a fixture like this a plastic strain relief is also common and standard these days. There's also some kind of crimp bushings available for stranded wires for screw terminals but check what code allows, I guess.
@@josephkanowitz6875 This particular fixture did not allow for an underwriters knot or cord protectors. Please see my other videos for an exhausting explanation of underwriters knots and cord protectors.