Framing Double-Stud Walls
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- Опубликовано: 15 май 2019
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Transfer the layout, and frame the openings a little bigger-just in case
We learned earlier from Ben and his crew how to frame basic exterior walls using 2x4s. It may have seemed like a low bar on the energy efficiency scale, but that is because the house will have 12-inch thick walls, using a double-wall approach.
When your walls are a foot thick, you don’t need to use 2x6s or exterior insulation.
Because. Your. Walls. Are. Twelve-inches. Thick.
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This guy is my hero. For a couple taps of the hammer, he takes the time to put in ear protection. Sound advice for anyone who wants to be able to hear into their later years.
Yes! Take care of your hearing, guys!
WHAT?!
Guy is an efficient and amazing carpenter. And yes taking care of your hearing is a big deal. However I would much rather go deaf than lose my eyes. He never once put on safety glasses. I would be using both.
And let's not forget a 👷......lol
@timothy chung I have scratched my eye twice. Not from not wearing glasses but just bad luck. It hurts like hell. Law or no law I'm wearing them. I don't even realize they are there now.
Wife and I built our house like this in 1984. Double 2x4 with a 1 inch air space between. Outside studs 24" OC, inside 16"OC. Only place the touch is the top, where I used a 9" strip of 3/4" plywood all down the walls. Good way to go back then. We did it because I felled some of the timber on our place and milled it, so lumber cost was very little.
Both walls filled with fiberglass insulation we got for free from a local water heater plant.....they took back the old heaters under warranty that failed and had a place out back that stripped them down...sheet metal in one pile, thermostats/wire in another, etc. The fiberglass insulation (used at that time) they would bag up in huge plastic bags and you could get it for free. I'd stop by every time I was in town and haul 2 bags home (all that would fit in my truck), stick in the loft of our barn for the house build. Stuffed it in the walls, then used 6mil plastic for a vapor barrier.
We've just started a remodel of the master bathroom. Pulled all that insulation out (took 20 of the large black contractor type trash bags to hold it). I'll be spraying 2-3" foam this time on the outer wall, then re-pack the insulation and plastic vapor barrier again. Good for the rest of my lifetime and then some !
Careful with the spray foam. Always hear about chemistry of them not being the best
@@vanderumd11 Used Dow Froth Pack....turned out fine I think.
One thing of note was the Tyvek used on the exterior of the wall. Stuff was ALL TO PIECES ! What few scraps of it remained whole, you could tear like tissue paper....something not possible when new. So "wonderful" Tyvek doesn't hold up over the long term. Back to 30# felt.
Barney style.
Definitely one of the simplest explanations of double-stud framing I've seen. First, you need to know WHY before you learn HOW. It stops us from "cutting corners"
I built my workshop this way ten years ago, in the Arizona high desert (hot summers, cold winters). Although I used glass insulation in both walls. It's not just great for insulation value (I neither heat nor cool) but with a little extra care (sealing seams) I made it virtually soundproof as well. I can run my equipment late at night and the neighbors have no idea. Meanwhile, the house I built out of that shop is a post-and-beam Straw Bale...now that's some insulation!
Great video- and thanks for taking the time to try to educate the many nay-sayers who have little experience or knowledge. My house uses one 12,000 BTU heat pump for heating and cooling 1824SF. Double stud walls similar to these described here except I lined the window openings with 1/2" plywood. I did connect the 24" OC 2x4 studs with a plywood gusset every three feet to stiffen up the walls. Straight window openings are lined with white painted plywood extension jambs that fit into the 1/2" "drywall channels" on the Marvin windows. Many people like to sit in the windowsills that are not filled with plants. The talk about rodents is crazy- no way there are any rodents in any house I've ever built! Living in a house with ZERO energy bills plus plenty of kwh to charge electric vehicles is really nice (9.9 kw solar array). Spend the money up front on insulation and solar panels and then never pay for energy for the next 30 years. Dense pack cellulose is fire retardant as you say and makes a really quiet and well insulated house when combined with the 16" loose fill cellulose in the attic. Total insulation bill including fiberglass in the attached garage and all interior walls for sound insulation was $9800.
I'm currently building my house. 32x56 pole building with a 2x4 wall framed inside it. 2 inch's of rigid foam glued to the girts and foam sealed to the post. Then 1 layer of r23 mineral wool behind the stud wall but infront of the rigid foam. Then the stud wall gets r15 mineral wool. The trusses are clear span with a 16 inch heal so there will be 16 inch's of cellouse in the attic. It's also got a crawlspace. That same insulation approach is used on the walls down there. With rigid foam on the concrete pad. Basically a continuous layer of insulation from crawlspace floor to ceiling.
Dang! This man is a quality carpenter, OCD, belt and suspenders sort of fella, integrity in his work, great attitude and super smart! 👍💯 🇨🇦🍁
That's why we follow him around!
@@ProTradeCraft Well worth the travels with this fella! 👍 🇨🇦
Wow, this is exactly what I was looking for and had planned for my next build. I can not believe this was filmed 3 years ago. It is the first video I have seen on this. I was wondering about the connection between the two walls without sacrificing the thermal transmission. Thanks, exactly what I was looking for.
I basically built my home 30 years ago in this same fashion it has R42 plus mathematically figured I did many other things as well but for now we will just stick with the wall thickness and insulation factors. It works I live in high elevation area 30 40 bellow is not uncommon I heat 6500 sq.ft for 100 dollars a month year round average. It was all worth the 1/3 more in building cost.
timothy chung he says 1/3 more at the end. Or 33% more than standard.
This build creates a tank walls stand without bracing, setting joices or trusses on a 11 1/4" top plate has many beneficial factors and is just a thrill to build this way, I lined everything with 2x12 material my home is a fortress, it is like living in a cave totally quiet totally energy-efficient the 1/3 more was just on the framing and insulation materials worth every cent we love our home you can see it at bretbel.com/the-great-exscape
Super good for fighting sound transfer as well!
Gotta love that Zip sheathing, Zip flash tape and Zip stretch tape! Here in Canada we have another brand which is more accessible. The Zip R sheathing with polyiso does not do as well here thermally as rigid foam here in Zone 7, Canada. I wonder if they will change the Zip R to rigid foam instead??? Thank you for the detail and work to edit this helpful Video! Long live our houses, Steve Baczek, architect and guest on Risingers The build Show. ☺🇨🇦
This video was jam packed with know-how. I love the time you took for the cad drawings. You should have 100k subscribers. Well you just got another one.
Wow, thank you!
My brother and I built a house in VT using this technique in 1985. 2800sq’ house 2 floors. One tank of fuel oil heated it for the year. Super insulated and very quiet.
i thought fuel oil was just a german thing, didn't know they also use or used it in the states. here about 50% of houses are heated with fuel oil and the other 50% natural gas
Flamewerkz in New England probably 40% of houses and businesses heat with oil, 40% heat with natural gas ( mostly in the cities), 15% use propane and 5% use wood
Samwell we built the outside wall with 2x4 and insulated that wall. We also added a 6 m vapor barrier over the insulation. Then we left a 2x4 space which we filled with insulation. We then built the interior wall with 2x4. So there is the insulated outside wall with vapor barrier a 2x4 gap between the outside wall and the inside wall and then the 2x4 inside wall. The inside wall had all the wiring and plumbing needs and the drywall. After 20 years we made some changes to the layout a bit and found no problems what so ever. The house is extremely tight and almost sound proof. Since the gap is 100% insulation there is no heat sink between the inside and outside walls. We also put 30 inches of insulation in the ceiling.
Samwell Also, if you research the building sheathing that they used, it includes a vapor barrier when applied with a fluid or tape seal.
@@Bluephrog that sounds awesome man, could you imagine filling the walls with some new high grade spray foam insulation?
A couple good tips here. Especially the router, never thought of that!
i once used a chainsaw to cut windows out .....lol
Love the dry humor inserted👍
Much better! Really like the fluid applied flashing.
Thanks Pro TradeCraft!! Love your videos
I built my house with double 2x4 walls lined up the framing like shown here then used cardboard to connect the inner and outer studs together to make cells. Then blew in fiberglass using the bibs system and ended up with an r50. Also used triple pane windows and don't have any concrete touching the ground, I used high density styrofoam under the footings and wrapped the sides with styrofoam as well.
Isandke3 - where are you building to make this a reasonable investment of materials? I live in Michigan and we are borderline as far as payback goes on this type of building.
Alaska
With a beard like that you know the guy is a good construction worker!
That is VERY DIFFERENT and I want to see MORE.
There’s a YT video of a Philly row house showing installation of an R40 outside wall. As I recall they used a PE vapor barrier. Built the wall on the floor, then tilted it up. Basically the same idea but with more space between the outer and inner framing. They also used taped-off green foam board sheathing.
Whack the framing to show it who's the boss. These videos are great.
Fascinating stuff. I never put much thought into what it takes to build a quality home and the professionalism it takes. Good stuff, good vid, good job!!!
Nice clean work.
Designed and built our 2 story home in 1985 in Illinois with double stud walls + brick exterior = 18” thick. Plus 2” blueboard around entire basement 8’ deep capped by custom aluminum cover angle between brick ledge and bricks. $50/month gas bill average year round for 3800 sq ft home.
Good job with the framing, I’ll reproduce it
That must be one quiet house
I did this many year's ago but we always offset the studs so the edges of the insulation wouldn't align. Less heat loss along the edge of the studs. We put bat type unfaced insulation toward the outside of course the studs in the middle (offset 8 inches) helped hold them in place. Then we put standard 3 1/2" faced insulation on the innermost framing. We did the windows in a way similar to what you did it but we were also required to put a fire stop at the top of the wall.
These walls were blown with cellulose insulation, so no edges to align at all.
great work
Great video!
I learned on double wall construction you frame the exterior wall for exterior sheathing layout. On the interior you do layout for sheet rock. It is laid out for best sheetrock layout not stud layout for the plywood. We also offset them, putting them parallel creates cold spots from nearby thermal bridging. Also, I think there is a lot to be gained from splaying the interior walls and turning the sills into friendly places to sit against. For top performance sliding pocket door can fit in the window spaces for thermal protection at night or extreme weather. Nice work
j e - What do you mean by 'splaying the interior walls'?
@@cdjhyoung Most, Window jambs are square to the window. With double wall construction you can splay the wall out from square to say 45 degrees. It lets a surprising amount of light into the room compared to 90 degree jambs.
@@je-fq7ve Got it. Like the musket openings they built into fortress walls in the 1700's.
@@cdjhyoung Yes it is a good description. It gives some unique looking windows. I have also built sliding panels in the wall to cover up the windows at night for energy conservation. Double wall gives lots of options
@@je-fq7ve Great Idea. Thanks for the tip
Very cool! How do You insulate the ceiling/roof? I have a 1970s house in South Carolina. I would like to envelope the house. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
I love this energy-efficient stuff!
well presented video
Has anyone used a 2" x 3" inside wall? Less thermal bridge, more room for insulation. Any pitfalls to this variation?
Well, that was fun. Even better, it made good sense and I learned a few things. I'm subscribing.
Thank you!
Amazing. Very interesting.
Glad you think so!
I’m in the insulation business. Heat loss is normally figured 5% floor, 20-25% wall, 70-75% ceiling. With waste of natural resources and interior square footage I don’t understand this system of framing. I would put the money in ceiling insulation and Geo heat.
sounds like you live in a cooling climate.
This house is in Maine.
Most heat loss in houses is through the ceiling or roof due to air leaks, not a preference of heat to go up instead of sideways.
Heat flows from more to less. If the ceiling is R-100 and the walls are R-1, the house will be very cold.
A cardboard box with a foam lid will not keep your beer cold.
@ProTradeCraft I'm an energy auditor and Inspector in the weatherization industry, I do this for a living. You're correct. 2nd law of thermodynamics says that hot will go to where it's cold, and high pressure to where it is low pressure: Energy wants equilibrium. That being the case, if your walls are R1 (hypothetically) heat will transfer faster through that area rather than the ceiling. The stack effect DOES come into play also in that heat DOES leave towards the ceiling BUT with R100 in your example, it is greatly reduced. We're in Central Minnesota, experiencing -30F every so often.
How would you be able to densepack this 12" wall with the massive void in the middle? Densepacking with cellulose is ideal and cost effective . . . also, would you spray foam instead? What are the options for the insulation?
Nice work! Thanks!
In some areas of the world there is a requirement to have greater than 6”. However this is very wasteful. If you want greater than 6” there’s several better ways. In Ireland (where I am) it’s not uncommon to add a 2 or 3” layer to the outside of the frame. Other options would be to use a 9” stud (that’s my house). If you want 12” (like my roof) use a 12” (300mm) I beam.
R value is a far bigger factor than Delta T and Delta T is very much overestimated and can be mitigated with something as simple as a fan.
Statements like you just made reflects what's wrong with the construction industry.
Any additional cost or lost square footage ...what is that compared to the security & insulating piece of mind you get from having a double wall house. I for one would sleep like a baby knowing this house has double the structural integrity than any other house on the block.
What are the benefits of this approach vs using a thick layer of exterior insulation? The latter seems just as good of not better thermally, and I assume less expensive because of less framing material and labor. I am designing my new home, and was planning to use 2x6 with closed cell spray foam and maybe 4-6" exterior insulation.
There is a break in the thermos transmitted through the lumber
@@jimh4167 Yes, but with 4 to 6 exterior insulation that allows for a lot of thermal bridging already, so the next fact collection through testing is which gives the best thermal break affect?🇨🇦
What is the plan for what type of insulation you are going to use?
wonder what the r value was when it was all complete.
谢谢
What is a good book that goes in depth into this construction technique?
Can do A video on floating walls floating ceilings and floating floor for home theater room?
In New Mexico they use this method and use alfalfa as insulation.
Is alfalfa mold and insect resistant? Or is it treated with something like boron?
This is a good idea. California uses title 24 rules for insulation and r value calculations. You need r 22 plus in so cal, not Maine even
Credit to your editor from 5:44 to 6:03. He edited at the exact point of completion of a full cut out. Using a transition which simulated the ply falling in on camera. I jumped a little.
Thank You!
Great Video ! I am planning on building , using a similar idea . Using 2 walls, built with 2x6 , with a 1/2 inch gap in-between, than using a 2x12 for my top plate. My way is more work involved . My studs will be staggered , - exterior wall studs to accommodate exterior sheeting, interior studs to accommodate drywall sheeting. Using a rock-wool insulation, should give a little better than a R-50 in the walls. I would like to see how you insulated your walls. I will subscribe !
Peter - Do you need the 2x6 stud for a structural load? The 2x4 doubled up walls illustrated here will yield the same R value in the wall (possibly a higher R value) while using less structural materials at a slightly lesser cost than the 2x6 framing you are suggesting.
agree
There is no need to drill holes for wiring. Run the wire between the walls.
Please stop spamming this feed with insulated stud comments.
I built double stud walls and laid my plates for the the interior and exterior wall at the same time.
Is the double stud to break the thermal bridge? If so, then why would you allow a window buck to be installed without using any foam to separate the OSB from the studs?
The thermal transmission along the OSB in the window buck is negligible compared to the thermal loss the window is going to contribute. Working to eliminate this minor thermal bridge may be cost ineffective.
i'd honestly probably assume i'd rather not rely on foam between wood layers but, such fear is not entirely factually founded so to speak as its not load bearing
It is a minor thermal bridge, yes.
What is liquid flashing?
Amazing what I've done with 2x6 exterior walls with stock fiberglass insulation. Insulate floor, walls, and ceiling, and 'voila', I only need three electric space heaters for a 1,000 sqft home. Once warm, my house will stay warm down to an average 20°f for two to three days without cycling the heaters but about hourly. I set the heaters for high heat/low thermostat (=short cycle). If I need a little extra heat, I switch to low heat/high thermostat (= long cycle). Sometimes I run my ceiling fans to keep the heat off the (9ft) ceilings - yet I still save big bucks over a central heating system wrapped in an envelope house. Some insulation tech (or whoever) will probably claim it's impossible, but it works for me!
You must have done a good job with air sealing.
Any chance you can help me understand how the interior framed wall is fastened to the subfloor and roof rafters? Much appreciated!
Interior wall is nailed down into the floor framing and up into the perpendicular ceiling joists. On the two walls that the joists are parallel, use blocking.
GOOD VIDEO..
Thank you
You should offset, your interior studs. Virtually eliminates all thermal bridging.
The air gap between the studs eliminate any of the thermal bridging you describe. Makes very little difference if they align or not - but greatly complicates the installation, and staggering shorter span walls with several king posts (doors/windows) would add cost in materials.
now close in the top and bottom space with 3/4 plywood then with pieces cut 1 foot long cover every other foot with the plywood. This would leave room for electrical and plumbing and insulation make the double wall act as one wall. You would have joist for walls and joist for connecting your joist or rafters to. This would be for someone that wanted to make their hose laugh at 100 mph wind and labor or materials and cost was not a factor. Just a dream house.
Where is this located and what is the r-value goal? Pink? Rock wool? Sprayed in?
Looks to be a passive design, but beyond the scope and budget of most.
It is in southern Maine. The cavities are filled with cellulose, approximately R-50 or so.
R-50.. my clients would cry 10k in insulation lol
@James Karrie what percentage of people live in a house for decades lol
Wow, can you imagine how much energy would be saved with 12” walls?
When you set the bucks in the window, why is ONLY attached to the outer framing?
Because the opening in the inner framing is a quarter-inch larger on each side.
No I understand that. What I saw in the video, it looked like the buck that he set was sitting a couple millimeters above the inner framing.
I believe the double wall is the best insulated wall. I also like the inset door and window look it provides.
A lot of material and labor and lost square footage. Seems there would be a better system than this.
Straw Bale
There is no lost square footage, only a smaller yard. The living space at the end of the project is exactly what it is on the plans.
@@IndigoMystik Straw bale is another way to build a thick-wall house.
@@ProTradeCraft In my opinion straw bale is superior but that's because I believe it would be less expensive for materials, and more environmentally friendly.
The idea isn’t to build a thick wall, it’s to have a dead air space with very limited material touching each other. The energy saving can be amazing!! This is not a new technique, but finally getting recognized for incredible energy saving potential. Cold air transfers through building materials regardless how thick, but with this method, only the windows and doors are touching both walls, therefore drastically limiting heat loss and cold infiltration. It’s worth your time to research this concept.
I just want to learn how to put two pieces of wood together. 😳
Duct tape
Are the top plates tied together as a fire block
yes
Great concept, and video!! You do top of the line work as well.
I am just wondering how much EXTRA it costs to double wall everything that meets an outside wall?? It would have to cost a TON, then add in the extra insulation and hardware, that's got to be the better part of building a second home. I would think anyway.
If you added up all that money, then deducted that from your fuel costs over however long you plan to live there..is the savings really enough to off set the extra materials and labor it costs to build it?? Or, if you sell it, will you recoup enough to cover your upgrade costs?
I'm just wondering..I'm not taking away anything from your design or workmanship. So please don't be offended. I just figured that you would have a list off all these figures that maybe we can see, if it's not to personal sir.
Thanks again for the video..it's great!!😁😁
Cellulose is cheap, and the price you pay for it stays the same. Energy costs go up every year. So your savings go up as time goes by.
Investing in energy efficiency pays dividends forever. Cutting corners pays dividends once.
How did you insulate this double wall, fiberglass batts ?
cellulose. NOT fiberglass batts--or any batts. the wall id about 12 inches deep at this point and batts are not gonna do it. You need to FILL that wall with insulation.
I’m not a construction guy and have never even used a table saw, but how is he supposed to add drywall or plywood to the load bearing wall with the double wall a few inches away? Then he has to put drywall on the backside of the double wall, that too seems problematic to me. What am I missing?
the cavity will be filled with insulation. The drywall goes on the innermost face of the framing, just like it would in a single wall application.
There’s no fire blocking between inner and outer wall?
Dennis Moncrief Nope, but is it Building Code requirement for single family dwellings or carpentry practice?
Steve, I just fled California, a state that has some of the most stringent building codes in the nation.
I think that’s where I went wrong.
Borate-treated cellulose will be dense-packed into the cavity.
well that is certainly a great way to build a house ...... IF YOU ARE A MILLIONAIRE !!!!!! ......
Yeah what a waste of material there's so many other ways you can insulate this home.
@@luie92114 .... this is no home for "average joe" that's for sure .... and definitely wasting trees big time !!!!!
This is totally flawed logic.
If you are super rich, you can afford to dump energy out of your house. If you are broke like the rest of us, an energy bill that is half of what we expect (or lower) is welcome because it means we can actually put money in our retirement accounts.
There are a lot of multifamily Passive House (PHIUS) buildings made as affordable housing. The cost to build better is about 3% more, the savings are tremendous, and the Net Operating Income of the building owner is higher because the vacancy rate is lower and they can charge slightly more per unit, and still stay under the affordable threshold.
Money spent today on energy efficiency costs the same forever. Energy that you need to buy to put in your furnace always gets more expensive.
There are, indeed many ways to insulate a home. We have tons of videos showing exterior foam insulation and air sealing details.
This is ONE way to superinsulate a house. It is low tech and it uses cheap materials (2x4s and cellulose).
If you want to talk about wasting trees, be sure to amortize them over the life of the building. We see McMansions rot to the ground pretty quickly because some builders do not bother with best practice details.
Building inspectors in my area would go nuts. No firestop once it breaks into that cavity.
Insulation packed into stud cavities is a firestop.
No, rock wool is even frowned on around the Cincinnati area. It is allowed in limited quantities. I worked on an A-frame in N Kentucky with a similar set up. I had to install 1/2 plywood at the top of the wall and every 8 ft on the vertices. Then caulk all of the seems with red firestorm caulk. Thats just one of many examples. It would be a No go from the start
@@jeffweneck1456 Here's an animation of the wall section showing the plywood cap: ruclips.net/video/K25T6zcoS94/видео.html
The walls are not taller than 8-ft.
Thanks for watching
Building a house inside of another house 🤔
Until the energy bills come in... Then $aving$
Why not stagger the wall for added strength? And.....Why not 2x6's with the inner and outer walls butted together in a staggered format?
that would be cool to see!
that's what I'm wondering...
that's what I'd done
I was gonna say the same thing, this uses way to much lumber and time.
There are a lot of ways to frame a double wall. If the plate is more narrow than two 2x4s, 7 inches, then you'd need to stagger the studs. These walls are 12 inches thick, so there is no reason to stagger the studs, and if you do, it makes the layout process slower and more prone to errors.
Great work but why not put an angle on the bottom buck rather than the angled piece in the next video?
That's a valid approach. Sometimes it is hard to get knucklehead framers to do details like that and it is just easier to have a few pieces of bevel siding handy.
What if a fire breaks out between the walls?
The wall cavity is full of cellulose insulation.
I'd like to see how to frame the inner wall a little larger so the sides taper in, like on an older house.
What is done about insulation with this type of wall?
Blown cellulose or fiberglass.
Do they build two roofs as well?
No need to -- just use raised-heel trusses and blow tons of cellulose into the attic.
Why copy the stud location? It would provide a thermal conduit thru the insulation barrier. The would provides a conduit for cold to transfer inside the house.
So is the bottom line that it would cost less to use a 2x4 double wall approach instead of the usual 2x6 simple wall with exterior insulation?
That is not the bottom line that we intended to get across. It MAY be cheaper, depending on who is doing the work. It is a LOT more wood and a LOT of cellulose insulation. Adding foam to the outside is not as tricky as screwing through four inches of foam and hitting a stud.
Double stud walls are one way to do superinsulation. See some exterior foam stuff here:
ruclips.net/video/8dZtRYSouj8/видео.html
and here:
ruclips.net/video/-ICsETRWfow/видео.html
What is the purpose of double stud wall
To save tons of energy, to improve comfort tremendously, to keep the house warm during ice storms and power outages.
Eight penny clamps? Is that a new term for nails?
:)
There is no seam sealer on the bottom plate, not good. Other than this, double stud walls is great idea. I like to use thick rock wall !!!
Has anyone done the math on this build style? Is it worth the extra expense and the loss of sq ft?
RE: Flush cutting with router bit, 05:43: Can you use this technique cutting cement board? Thanks.
Sure, if you want a dull router bit and silicosis.
sure , if you want the router bit to snap the f off and shoot you in the leg like a bullet ....
Plus Double Layer Drywall.
Thats a lot of wood that most homeowners cant afford i live in a metal building with a 12” post and beam foundation and metal siding then a 2x4 wall and sheet rock it can be 95 outside but it will be 70 inside with no AC. Simple a less money
Homeowners pay tens of thousands in interest but won't pay a couple extra thousand in materials when it will dramatically reduce their energy costs... because... stupid.
@@Meop79 I agree.... at 2.50 a piece(that's kind of expensive), 1000 2x4's are only 2,500 dollars. I know it's more to frame but in the scheme of a 500k home, 25,000 for materials and extra cost to frame isn't anything for insane savings. Spend $500 a month on heat to drop it to $250 a month. Pays itself off in 100 months. That's 8.3 years..... you'll be paying for your house a lot longer than that which means every month after that is saving you money to use elsewhere. Edit: spelling errors.
@@trevorp875 exactly
Sounds like you live in a place where AC is more prevalent than heating. Radiant barriers can do a lot in hot climates. A lot less in cold climates, unless you are building an ice rink, which have radiant barriers on the ceiling to keep the ice cold.
The homeowners chose this builder because he is one of the best in the state at high performance building. His experience got him a lucrative construction project.
Agree, but your argument ignores the fact that energy gets more expensive. The payoff is probably quicker, and then it is money in your pocket every month.
Most people in comment section obviously do not live up north like in Montreal and obviously never researched anything about passivhaus
Could there be any rodent issues with that much space between walls?
Potentially, but that whole spaceis going to be filled with insulation, so there wont be loads of free space per say
Donkeh McDonkey lol rodents make tunnels in insulation it’s actually one of their most preferred spaces
@@thatguy4234 All of the blown in insulation in my house was full of rodent holes! Only way to combat them spreading is to physically block the walls but even then they chew threw stuff.
Why wasn't the the wall system framed with advanced framing techniques? No need from a structure point of view to frame 16" on center. 24" is more than sufficient. Allows for more insulation in the wall because of less wood framing members.
Because the exterior bearing walls are 2x4, they used 16-inch centers. They could have done a new layout for the interior walls, but it really wasn't worth the trouble to save a handful of studs.
3:50 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Yikes I'm not sure what I'm looking at or why there framing the house twice but a lot of fire blocking will be needed for sure
Complicated topic and your local inspector has the final say, but, you may be able to bring the inspector along to more progressive building techniques with some information.
The code calls for fire blocking every 10 feet horizontally. 1/2 in. drywall or 3/4 inch plywood are specified, but there are alternatives. CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL INSPECTOR BEFORE BREAKING GROUND.
Treated cellulose insulation will not burn, so walls packed into the wall cavity, it should be fine. www.greenfiber.com/uploads/documents/Fire_Resistance_White_Paper_148_209.pdf
For double stud walls, the code says this:
"R302.11.1.1 Batts or blankets of mineral or glass fiber.
Batts or blankets of mineral or glass fiber or other approved nonrigid materials shall be permitted for compliance with the 10-foot (3048 mm) horizontal fireblocking in walls constructed using parallel rows of studs or staggered studs. "
Alternatively, you could use rockwool insulation.
Who’s the builder? Would love to contact them.
Kolbert Building, Portland, Maine
The window bucks on the sides and top seem a bit pointless.
Air barrier, insulation stop...
Wheres the treated wood on top of concrete
Good eye.
@@howardlovecraft750 right!
It is on top of the concrete, under the floor framing.
The black material you see on the floor in the video is a rubber mat that is protecting the finished 2nd floor (tongue and groove 2x6 fir that spans wide beams and is visible from below)
Double walls are killer on fire fighting. Less efficient also. No need for all of that if you use zip r-sheathing for a thermal break to begin with.
Exterior foam insulation is another way to go, and we have a lot of videos on that, with innie windows, outie windows, and in-betweenie windows. Double walls ate absolutely a valid option for superinsuilation.
Not sure how it is worse for firefighters, though as foam is much more flammable than borate-treated cellulose dense-packed into the cavities.
Why not just build it with 2 by 12 from the start instead of 2 by 4. Just wondering
Jimmy P 2x12s cost way more than two 2x4s and an air space. Probably easier to run trades this way too instead drilling all the studs.
As Tyler said: cost. Also, wood isn't a very good insulator, so having an "air gap" full of insulation is much more efficient. Not to mention: 2x12s are _heavy_.
Thanks! Make s sense
A plastic speed square then a festool tracksaw that funny
I give him shit about that plastic speed square every time I visit one of his sites.
Thats what you call being penny wise and dollar stupid.
Why have 2 walls that way?
It minimizes heat loss through thermal bridging of the wall studs, can be much quieter due to the isolation of the exterior wall from the interior wall and will save you a lot on your energy bills.
@@BenKlassen1 thank you
Why not just use SIP panels? Got to be less expensive than a double wall, sheeting and insulation!
SIPs are a valid option. They are typically very air tight, but do not always have high r-values that high performance builders look for. One builder I know in central Main uses SIPs as an exterior skin and frames a 2x4 will inside of the SIPs to gain a lot of insulation cheaply.
Faster and easier to use SIPs.
@James Karrie SIPs should require less labor. Have you factored that in?
They are a good and professional framers, no like my fu...king contractor who don even know how to use a level 🤦🏽♂️
yes, there are good framers. Santa Clause doesn't exist, but good framers do.
I hear this kind of comment so often, it's scary. I'm lucky where I live, we have what has become a family line of builders, one guy learned proper carpentry from his father-in-law, taught it to his nephew, that is in partnership with his nephew. All local guys. All straight shooters. They realize they are in a small town with lots of competition and make it a point to deliver more than promised. One down side, they might only work on your project once a week, or one morning a week. They stack the jobs up so they are still working if it rains, or are not forced to do roofing when it's 90+ degrees outside. Takes a bit longer, but works if you don't have a rock solid deadline. And just as important, they don't do the jobs they are not good at - they have other pros they call instead.
@@cdjhyoung the best way. Great customers like you who are willing to wait a bit for a hand made product make the job worth it