6 Answers to Frequent Comments... #1- The screws I'm using in this video are #9 x 3” PowerPro interior screws. #2-I'm using screws for framing interior partitions. I am not advocating the use of screws for structural framing. Nails have more shear strength, and I used nails when framing this house addition. This video is about nothing more than a simple how-to technique for easily and accurately toenailing studs. #3-As mentioned early in this video, this same technique works for toenailing with nails. #4- The interior walls in this video can not be nailed together on the deck, then tipped up into position against a drywalled ceiling and still fit tightly. Thus, they are being built in place. #5-Yes, screws are more expensive than nails. No doubt about it. #6-Yes, screws are more time consuming to use than a nail gun, and professional framers do not use screws. But professional remodelers (which was my profession for nearly 25 years) do use them. They are a satisfying and valid option for framing walls in place. Thanks for watching this video. 👍❤
It’s sad for me to realize that there aren’t any carpenters anymore that know how to use a hammer. There really isn’t anything that is more efficient and cost effective than a combination of hand drives and a good framing gun. To me, screws are for the inexperienced, Expensive and time consuming. For toe nailing, put the toe of your boot against the stud and nail, or in your case, screw the opposite side
@@volkan_boston I think so. There was a concern at one time that pressure treated chemicals may corrode steel fasteners, unless galvanized, but I've been told that is no longer an issue.
Good tip. You can also lay a 2x4 cut 14 1/2" against your previous stud so that it is 16'' on centre and repeat the process using no screws over and over. Or whatever your desired spacing happens to be. Just make sure you write on it so you don't grab the wrong piece of 2x4 lol.
I framed houses more than forty years ago and we just jammed our boot against the base of the stud and drove the nails in from the other side. Very natural and very fast. No way they would let us take the time to be so accurate in those days. I would devise a quick-release clamp to go on the plate if I were using screws today but my construction days are long over. Nice video, you explained and illustrated well. I enjoyed it.
Yeah I do the same thing, though there are sometimes tight circumstances where neither is possible like when you are about 19" away from an end stud and you need a spare installed at 16". No room for my fat foot or all the screws and nails put in and taken out. This is where you nail a 3" piece of scrap to the bottom right next to the line and that is your brace. Sometimes it doesn't survive 2 nails plus the pressure, but that's okay because it's just a temporary brace. I mean, all this is studwork, not cabinetry. I've never even thought about being off the width of a line as a problem.
😂 Kind of true. It's an addition on my house that I started 3 years ago. The outside is done. The inside is still getting done. Building with no debt, while working full time. Should be all done next year. Or the year after. 👍
@@ryankojabashian9599 I know what u mean but obviously uve got a framing gun diys probably won’t have one so its gonna help them do it right if somewhat slowly but that said it is a great way of getting twists out of the studs when fitting I don’t know what the quality of studding is like in the states but in the uk it’s shocking trying to get straight true timber is almost impossible nowadays with all this quick grown gear that’s on the market nowadays
I discovered this very technique on my own (out of necessity) but more recently after reading old carpentry books I discovered that you can do the same thing with a flat head nail - just lie 2 flat head nails with the head on the line (tips away from the new stud) and give each a tap with the hammer so the head penetrates the timber - then you can push the new stud up against the nail heads and toe nail from the other side. It's easy to lift the nails out with you fingers. Works with nailer or hammer.
Instead of screwing 2 screws to hold the studs in place before putting toe screws in, I pre cut a 14 1/2” and a 13 3/4” 2x4 block and use them as reusable spacers. The first space I use 13 3/4” then the rest 14 1/2” block. I put the block in place put the stud against it, toe screw, remove then place in on the other side and repeat. I feel it’s faster this way and I don’t need to level all my studs just the first one.
@@mdgrech because normally drywall edge is on stud center, but is butted on the edge against a wall or corner when you start. It insures that when you start the drywall from the corner or butt against another wall you will be on center in subsequent studs.
I think tips like this are for guys like me who enjoy learning and trying different projects. Now I know I can tackle a small framing job with the tools I own. Thank you
I am a homeowner with a day job who does not do anything construction related for a living. That being said I am working on framing out my basement and Bought this ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt gun. I have done a few walls already, have probably shot a couple hundred nails through this thing and have yet to have a misfire. It works awesome, good depth on every nail if you have your compressor set right. My literal only complaint is that it is a bit heavy and my arm can get a little tired especially whrn I am nailing at odd angles. That being said I am super happy with it and would buy it again. Hoping the old girl allows me to get my whole basement finished out!
This is perfect! I’m new to DIY and just have a very small area to frame out. This has made me much less anxious about the toenail process. And I already have all the tools and screws I need.
I recently retired from doing this work my entire working life. I love watching you knowledgeable and competent carpenters and wood workers. One view and I subscribed.
Wow I like your tricks. I used those 2-1/2 composite deck screws I had leftover to build an interior non-bearing wall. This was my first time using screws. Boy it was very strong passed inspection.
I just happen to be about to start building a stud wall, in 20 minutes time when I finish this coffee in fact. You have just made my life easier. Thank you!
Thank you so very much for your valuable information! I am going to be framing in a chicken run with 2x4s this was so helpful! I was wondering how I was going to effectively attach my 2x4s using the toe mail method!
Thank you, very informative. I have to add a few studs in a shower area and this will let me get them squared up nicely. Good video, showing all the important steps. I also can't help but wonder why "professional framers" are watching your video and then commenting negatively? It seems to be geared for lowly DIY'ers like me. Well done.
Great video. Great tip for toe nailing. Makes to much sense, solves the problem of the stud shifting over a little. As far as nails go, I do not remember the last one I drove in with a hammer.
Framing a house with screws will fail inspection as far as I know. Check your local building code. I suspect it has do with expansion, settling as well seasonal environmental factors. Screws brake were as nails twist and bend. If you've ever dismantled a wooden structure fastened with screws you will find a high percentage of them to be broken, were as broken nails are rarely encountered.
Recently was building 2x4 construction shelves in my basement, i was using a small brad air nailer to attach my boards so i could check for level and tap them to bend the brads to make small adjustments. worked pretty good!
Thank you very much for your info I really appreciate that much You have no idea how many two by fours they’re open on me and I learn a lot just by watching your video thank you very much and God bless you
I just shoot the studs in place using a battery operated trim gun, Then follow up with the screws, it is so much faster! You should predrill with a countersink bit, it's the taper in the head of the screw that splits the wood!
Want to use screws for framing? Make sure your local code allows them and you must use SDWS rated screws. Woods structures, though, are inherently flexible through temperature and humidity extremes, wind loads, ground shaking etc. Using a stiff brittle fastener like a screw works against woods natural flexibility. You’re asking for trouble years down the road when it will be impossible to fix because it is covered up. Nails are proven in all these conditions.
Awesome video. Wondered about utilizing screws for toe screwing fo years. Now will be utilizing the info in my DIY projects not for stud work, but repairing my green house. Kudos for vid. New subscriber because of this vid. Looking forward to ur next one.
I toenailed all the studs in my wall during our renovation because it allowed me to adjust the studs to make them all flush across the surface. This way, the sheetrock is a lot flater and straight. It just makes it look better. This is just a tip to make your project look like a pro did it and not a DIYer. 😊 I'd also recommend getting a laser level as it will make this process a lot easier.
I've been working pro for decades and the one thing consistent in construction is that one guy rarely leaves something the next guy doesn't have to fix or adjust for, and that includes framers. I've also deconstructed a lot of walls and I've found that a pretty consistent characteristic over time, though I will grant that the materials were significantly better going back in time. I've harvested old used fir studs and true 2x4 roughs for future projects because they were far better materials than the pine
Wife buys a lot of nuts & grated cheeses in plastic containers at big box stores. I use them to put different size screws in, label size on it. Grab the size you need & head to job sight. I buy screws from stores selling them in bulk to cut cost & never over-buy the expensive ones already boxed up.
Well sir I enjoy your precise placement and don't fault you for it. As a carpenter for close to 50years I've come to see great benefits of screwing my studs in remodeling. Anytime a customer makes a change it's easier to make happen. Although I don't get quite a precise as you in screw placement. I find that I can make minor adjustments to the line by over tighten or backing off slightly. Your clearly a good carpenter!
I appreciate your perspective and comment here Marvin. I was a carpenter and remodeler for 25 years before moving on to other things. Screws for interior stud walls in remodeling situations are a sensible option. I'm sure you can remember when we didn't have these kinds of screws. The framing in this video is an addition on my own home. I made two changes to the layout and the changes were easier to make because the screws reverse out with no problem. Thank you. 👍 P.S. For those professionals who watch this video and think that I am advocating the use of screws for all framing applications, I am not doing that. Structural framing should be done with nails because they have more tensile strength. I framed this addition on my home with nails. This is a video specifically about toenailing (or "toe-screwing"). And, as I mention in the beginning, this technique works with nails as well as it does with screws.
@@herrickkimball Tensile strength refers to the resistance of an object to deformation and fracture under stretching load along its length, such as a rope under tension. In carpentry, the resistance of nails to pull-out is much less than the internal strength of a steel nail along its length. Screws have much greater pull-out resistance and almost always the wood will fail before the screw is stretched, unless perpendicular force is also being applied. By the time that modulus of elasticity or point of fracture become relevant, the structure has already failed. If the studs in your wall are racked 20 degrees off plumb, you don't have a wall.
I admire the guy’s courage to post it. Idiots on here that think you would ever use this method in every application show the extent of their abilities. I’ve used this method a handful of times on remodel projects when the stud length varies drastically and you have to install your bottom and top plates first and then literally measure each individual stud to frame out your wall….also very handy if you’re building a pony wall in place and are dealing with short studs that don’t “wedge” in place on the top plate. It’s a simple concept that seems to have really stumped a lot of these RUclips “experts”. Haha.
Piloting holes before driving in a screw is preferred when using kiln dried wood or when studs are dry (old stock that has fully dried). Most wood studs purchased from a supplier are still damp and is less likely to split when screws or nails are driven into them at ends. Using two wood shims for a stud that is too short is better since cardboard may compress over time and become loose again.
@@ryanb6658 You are correct about taking a month if a pilot hole is needed to toe nail a stud to a mud sill. Screws should never be used for framing since most of the stress are shearing and a screw will snap. Screws are used for resisting pulling forces (deck surfaces) while nails resist sideways movement (shearing) and if there is a risk of pulling forces, nails are toe nailed in two opposite sides to help resist pulling forces.
With narrower studs alternating which side (room) they butt against you'll separate each outer wall which should reduce noise transmission between the two rooms, even if you don't fill the gap with wool.
I'll be danged. I am 53 years old, and you just made me measure my fingertips. I have an inch in my pointer, and 1 1/4 inch on my F you finger. I have been carrying these little measuring sticks around with me since the day I reached full growth, and I never knew it. NICE! This makes me ponder, though. Do Canadians have metric fingers?
A spacer block with a framing-nailer is much faster, and doesn't wear through driver-bits. That combo also works well with joist hangers and hurricane straps.
I noticed your 'holding' screws looked a bit bent after toe-screwing the stud. I was experimenting using a short piece of batten as a retainer - screw it in place across the base, but the vertical stud up to it then remove after the 2 screws are skewed in. Same principle.
Done a bunch of these over the past year during my home build but didn’t think of the first two screws to stop it moving. Had my share of splits and studs that needing stretching too.
A trick to stop the screw splitting the wood: set the drill on reverse and then backspin the screw for a half second to burn the wood. Then set the drill to forward and drive the screw. It really works.
Never use screws for rough framing especially on exterior walls or trusses. Nails have 10x more shear strength and can bend/flex without breaking. 15+ years trade experience here, 5 years being nothing but rough end carpentry.
Really? There's nothing wrong with using screws for framing if that's what your comfortable with and they're installed properly. This wall and pretty much all of rough framing is under compression not tension so shear is not an issue. The only time shear matters in framing is when using steel hangers and you must always use hangers nails which is a requirement in the building code, inspectors could care less if you use nails or screws in framing. Also it's not ten times more, 3 or 4 times more tops is more like it with collated nails, a bit more with twist shank hand bangers.
@@eutimiochavez415 you are wrong, screws more expensive, and slower for a professional. Set it, 2 whacks with my Estwing. Off line? Gentle tap, perfect. Guy wouldn't last a day on a real job . 40 year carpenter.
@@richardking3967 I was 37 years on the job and now retired for 12 and I wasn't commenting on what professionals use, I stated you use what your comfortable with and that screws pass inspection, never talked about cost. Half of my career was banging nails and when cordless drills became available I with just about everyone else used screws where they were better suited, just like using a palm nailer on joist hangers. People use screws cause they suck at hammering, didn't say I was one of them.
I spent 94 years framing houses and this guy wouldn’t last eight seconds. I’m kidding. I find all these “years on the job” posts so entertaining. I’m a diyer and currently framing my basement. If I have to build the wall in place I’m using screws. I like their accuracy, superior pull out, and reset ability if needed.
Same method I use, except I don't use the back up screws. Once you have the screw started and then at the correct angle, It's easy to hold the stud with one hand while putting the screws in. It does help to cut your studs snug.
I am planning to build a privacy panel on my deck and going to use a 4 x 4 to which I will attach 2 x 4s. Can I apply it to my 4 x 4 as well like you have shown here?
Хобби
6 Answers to Frequent Comments...
#1- The screws I'm using in this video are #9 x 3” PowerPro interior screws.
#2-I'm using screws for framing interior partitions. I am not advocating the use of screws for structural framing. Nails have more shear strength, and I used nails when framing this house addition. This video is about nothing more than a simple how-to technique for easily and accurately toenailing studs.
#3-As mentioned early in this video, this same technique works for toenailing with nails.
#4- The interior walls in this video can not be nailed together on the deck, then tipped up into position against a drywalled ceiling and still fit tightly. Thus, they are being built in place.
#5-Yes, screws are more expensive than nails. No doubt about it.
#6-Yes, screws are more time consuming to use than a nail gun, and professional framers do not use screws. But professional remodelers (which was my profession for nearly 25 years) do use them. They are a satisfying and valid option for framing walls in place.
Thanks for watching this video. 👍❤
It’s sad for me to realize that there aren’t any carpenters anymore that know how to use a hammer. There really isn’t anything that is more efficient and cost effective than a combination of hand drives and a good framing gun. To me, screws are for the inexperienced, Expensive and time consuming. For toe nailing, put the toe of your boot against the stud and nail, or in your case, screw the opposite side
thanks- can same screw be used if bottom plate is pressure treated?
@@volkan_boston I think so. There was a concern at one time that pressure treated chemicals may corrode steel fasteners, unless galvanized, but I've been told that is no longer an issue.
@@herrickkimball what kind of screws are you using? What size etc? I’m not good enough to see it.0
@@bryanutility9609 #9 x 3" Power Pro. More information is in the pinned comment (the top comment on this page).
Good tip. You can also lay a 2x4 cut 14 1/2" against your previous stud so that it is 16'' on centre and repeat the process using no screws over and over. Or whatever your desired spacing happens to be. Just make sure you write on it so you don't grab the wrong piece of 2x4 lol.
Exactly what I do so they stay put
Exactly
Wow, my head just exploded. Such an easy solution but I've never thought of it.
Easily repeated and STRONG as hell
Thanks for that tip .being a home owner and getting ready to do work on a Cabin that needs framing on the inside..
As soon as he freehanded that 1-1/4" line perfectly, I knew I could trust this man with my life.
Looked more like 1-1/2" to me, but my eyes ain't what they used to be😅.
Looked to me like when he flipped it over, another piece of wood without the knot was there with another line, so who knows if he got it right lol.
I framed houses more than forty years ago and we just jammed our boot against the base of the stud and drove the nails in from the other side. Very natural and very fast. No way they would let us take the time to be so accurate in those days. I would devise a quick-release clamp to go on the plate if I were using screws today but my construction days are long over. Nice video, you explained and illustrated well. I enjoyed it.
I still do it with my boot too, works fine. I wedge it a bit past the line, when I shoot the nail it knocks over to the right spot.
Yeah I do the same thing, though there are sometimes tight circumstances where neither is possible like when you are about 19" away from an end stud and you need a spare installed at 16". No room for my fat foot or all the screws and nails put in and taken out. This is where you nail a 3" piece of scrap to the bottom right next to the line and that is your brace. Sometimes it doesn't survive 2 nails plus the pressure, but that's okay because it's just a temporary brace. I mean, all this is studwork, not cabinetry. I've never even thought about being off the width of a line as a problem.
Now I know why it's called toe nailing
exactly
Legend has it that he is still building this wall
😂 Kind of true. It's an addition on my house that I started 3 years ago. The outside is done. The inside is still getting done. Building with no debt, while working full time. Should be all done next year. Or the year after. 👍
Hahahaha. So good. Good on him for making it perfect, but I would make 5$/day if I took this approach to all my projects.
@@ryankojabashian9599 I know what u mean but obviously uve got a framing gun diys probably won’t have one so its gonna help them do it right if somewhat slowly but that said it is a great way of getting twists out of the studs when fitting I don’t know what the quality of studding is like in the states but in the uk it’s shocking trying to get straight true timber is almost impossible nowadays with all this quick grown gear that’s on the market nowadays
Lol, like Trump
@@kendodd8734 it's the same way here in the states, nothing like the good stuff in old days
I discovered this very technique on my own (out of necessity) but more recently after reading old carpentry books I discovered that you can do the same thing with a flat head nail - just lie 2 flat head nails with the head on the line (tips away from the new stud) and give each a tap with the hammer so the head penetrates the timber - then you can push the new stud up against the nail heads and toe nail from the other side. It's easy to lift the nails out with you fingers. Works with nailer or hammer.
I like it. Thanks for the comment.
Or cut a 14.5" piece of stud and lay it in place butted against already installed stud. Then just pick it up after installing first two screws/nails.
@@williammoore4380 you can certainly do that but you might want a different spacing between members.
@@AS-zw4lk ?? 16 on centre isn’t happy for you ?
@@justinstevenson2061 have you ever built a wall? Not every stud can be placed 16, particularly if have to work around obstacles.
Instead of screwing 2 screws to hold the studs in place before putting toe screws in, I pre cut a 14 1/2” and a 13 3/4” 2x4 block and use them as reusable spacers. The first space I use 13 3/4” then the rest 14 1/2” block. I put the block in place put the stud against it, toe screw, remove then place in on the other side and repeat. I feel it’s faster this way and I don’t need to level all my studs just the first one.
Yeah I "invented" that technique too! The studs kept twisting as I tried to screw them in, now I do it all the time.
@@wilsonatore Darn, I should've patented that technique before a million of you guys invented it as well.
why use a 13 3/4 to place the first stud?
@@mdgrech because normally drywall edge is on stud center, but is butted on the edge against a wall or corner when you start. It insures that when you start the drywall from the corner or butt against another wall you will be on center in subsequent studs.
I think tips like this are for guys like me who enjoy learning and trying different projects. Now I know I can tackle a small framing job with the tools I own. Thank you
I am a homeowner with a day job who does not do anything construction related for a living. That being said I am working on framing out my basement and Bought this ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt gun. I have done a few walls already, have probably shot a couple hundred nails through this thing and have yet to have a misfire. It works awesome, good depth on every nail if you have your compressor set right. My literal only complaint is that it is a bit heavy and my arm can get a little tired especially whrn I am nailing at odd angles. That being said I am super happy with it and would buy it again. Hoping the old girl allows me to get my whole basement finished out!
Did you frame walls with a brad nailer?
@@JobsiteJohnny-nn5zy and he thought it was heavy hahahahhahahaha
This is perfect! I’m new to DIY and just have a very small area to frame out. This has made me much less anxious about the toenail process. And I already have all the tools and screws I need.
I recently retired from doing this work my entire working life. I love watching you knowledgeable and competent carpenters and wood workers. One view and I subscribed.
that inch and a quarter free hand was super!
That was impressive, wasn't it?
Learning to be a carpenter, I was informed that proficiency in toenailing would be mine after driving 10,000 nails. I’m pretty good at it now.
😂
Awesome video for DIY enthusiasts who don't understand best practices. Thanks for this!
I hammered the like button like he said, but now i need a new tablet...
Thanks a lot Herrick. This helped me a ton. I never comment on a video but i am genuinely thankful for this tutorial. Thanks a lot again
Thank you for sharing this. I'm terrible with nails, so this was a perfect demonstration 🙏💫
I got down on myself yesterday because I was doing it all wrong so I'm glad I found your video. Im new to DIY so thank you
Great tip! I never would have thought about doing that. Thank you for the education.
Nicely done. I did learn some stuff here. The pre-drill has always been my favorite technique, as an amateur.
Wow I like your tricks. I used those 2-1/2 composite deck screws I had leftover to build an interior non-bearing wall. This was my first time using screws. Boy it was very strong passed inspection.
sweet video, learning to build with wood and making my first piece of furniture right now and this was super helpful
I'm learning DIY and found this really useful, Thanks👍
Wow! Great advice. Much appreciated!
Thanks for the tips! Very useful when doing this kind of work over ones head! I always appreciate simple tips that work!
Thank you for this! Very useful!
Great tips - you are fabulous!
Thank you for sharing!
I just happen to be about to start building a stud wall, in 20 minutes time when I finish this coffee in fact. You have just made my life easier. Thank you!
What was your wall for?
Thank you because I was struggling with trying to do a toe nail on the stud.
When I do it, it’s like calculating the angle of entry for space x. This guy makes it look easy.
EXCELLENT!!! Great tip!!
Wow right off the bat
I’ll be trying this to see how accurate it is. No rough framing around here
Thank you so very much for your valuable information! I am going to be framing in a chicken run with 2x4s this was so helpful! I was wondering how I was going to effectively attach my 2x4s using the toe mail method!
Very helpful, thank you!
Oh wow, this is such a great video and great trick that I've just learned. Thank you very much!
Great tips. This will help me when I build some internal walls in my garage. Thanks.
Thank you for the “tip”very helpful .
Thanks for the tips. Brilliant
Awesome 👍! I love it. Thank you!
Thank you, very informative. I have to add a few studs in a shower area and this will let me get them squared up nicely. Good video, showing all the important steps. I also can't help but wonder why "professional framers" are watching your video and then commenting negatively? It seems to be geared for lowly DIY'ers like me. Well done.
Great video.
Great tip for toe nailing.
Makes to much sense, solves the problem of the stud shifting over a little.
As far as nails go, I do not remember the last one I drove in with a hammer.
Framing a house with screws will fail inspection as far as I know. Check your local building code. I suspect it has do with expansion, settling as well seasonal environmental factors. Screws brake were as nails twist and bend. If you've ever dismantled a wooden structure fastened with screws you will find a high percentage of them to be broken, were as broken nails are rarely encountered.
This helped me so much, thank you 🙏
I like the way you sped up the second demonstration 😉
Recently was building 2x4 construction shelves in my basement, i was using a small brad air nailer to attach my boards so i could check for level and tap them to bend the brads to make small adjustments. worked pretty good!
and then it all fell apart when things were put on shelves
Insightful and well presented. Thanks!
This is golden. Thank you.
Glad I finally figured out the secrets of wood stretching!
Excellent educational video. Thank you..
Thank you very much for your info
I really appreciate that much
You have no idea how many two by fours they’re open on me and I learn a lot just by watching your video thank you very much and God bless you
I just shoot the studs in place using a battery operated trim gun, Then follow up with the screws, it is so much faster! You should predrill with a countersink bit, it's the taper in the head of the screw that splits the wood!
That's very useful, thanks
Thanks for the tips!
Great tips. Being not a carpenter this was great
Excellent beginner technique.
Want to use screws for framing? Make sure your local code allows them and you must use SDWS rated screws. Woods structures, though, are inherently flexible through temperature and humidity extremes, wind loads, ground shaking etc. Using a stiff brittle fastener like a screw works against woods natural flexibility. You’re asking for trouble years down the road when it will be impossible to fix because it is covered up. Nails are proven in all these conditions.
Thank you! 👍
Awesome video. Wondered about utilizing screws for toe screwing fo years. Now will be utilizing the info in my DIY projects not for stud work, but repairing my green house. Kudos for vid. New subscriber because of this vid. Looking forward to ur next one.
I personally wouldn't use screws because they break while nails will bend with movement
For stretching a stud, i use layers of boxboard (cereal box). Won't compress like cardboard
just buy a board stretcher..... they sell them at home depot
I toenailed all the studs in my wall during our renovation because it allowed me to adjust the studs to make them all flush across the surface. This way, the sheetrock is a lot flater and straight. It just makes it look better. This is just a tip to make your project look like a pro did it and not a DIYer. 😊 I'd also recommend getting a laser level as it will make this process a lot easier.
I've been working pro for decades and the one thing consistent in construction is that one guy rarely leaves something the next guy doesn't have to fix or adjust for, and that includes framers. I've also deconstructed a lot of walls and I've found that a pretty consistent characteristic over time, though I will grant that the materials were significantly better going back in time. I've harvested old used fir studs and true 2x4 roughs for future projects because they were far better materials than the pine
Excellent video... Thanks!
Building a floating bench in my mud room this really helped me with the supports
Wife buys a lot of nuts & grated cheeses in plastic containers at big box stores. I use them to put different size screws in, label size on it. Grab the size you need & head to job sight.
I buy screws from stores selling them in bulk to cut cost & never over-buy the expensive ones already boxed up.
You gained a new subscriber today, I have become a DIY enthusiast and this video helped a great amount. Thank you!
Well sir I enjoy your precise placement and don't fault you for it. As a carpenter for close to 50years I've come to see great benefits of screwing my studs in remodeling. Anytime a customer makes a change it's easier to make happen. Although I don't get quite a precise as you in screw placement. I find that I can make minor adjustments to the line by over tighten or backing off slightly. Your clearly a good carpenter!
I appreciate your perspective and comment here Marvin. I was a carpenter and remodeler for 25 years before moving on to other things. Screws for interior stud walls in remodeling situations are a sensible option. I'm sure you can remember when we didn't have these kinds of screws. The framing in this video is an addition on my own home. I made two changes to the layout and the changes were easier to make because the screws reverse out with no problem. Thank you. 👍
P.S. For those professionals who watch this video and think that I am advocating the use of screws for all framing applications, I am not doing that. Structural framing should be done with nails because they have more tensile strength. I framed this addition on my home with nails. This is a video specifically about toenailing (or "toe-screwing"). And, as I mention in the beginning, this technique works with nails as well as it does with screws.
@@herrickkimball Tensile strength refers to the resistance of an object to deformation and fracture under stretching load along its length, such as a rope under tension.
In carpentry, the resistance of nails to pull-out is much less than the internal strength of a steel nail along its length. Screws have much greater pull-out resistance and almost always the wood will fail before the screw is stretched, unless perpendicular force is also being applied.
By the time that modulus of elasticity or point of fracture become relevant, the structure has already failed. If the studs in your wall are racked 20 degrees off plumb, you don't have a wall.
Great presentation-keep ‘‘em coming
We used to use hammers and nails. Simply position the stud, back it with your left foot so it can't move and drive in the nails.
I admire the guy’s courage to post it. Idiots on here that think you would ever use this method in every application show the extent of their abilities. I’ve used this method a handful of times on remodel projects when the stud length varies drastically and you have to install your bottom and top plates first and then literally measure each individual stud to frame out your wall….also very handy if you’re building a pony wall in place and are dealing with short studs that don’t “wedge” in place on the top plate. It’s a simple concept that seems to have really stumped a lot of these RUclips “experts”. Haha.
Thank you ayn
Thank you, I had a hard time for long time 👍😊
Built a solid base for my chicken coop! 🦾 thanks for the advice!
I like the Milwaukee bits with the DeWalt driver... lol :)
DelWauky
Thank you!!
Thanx for sharing!👍🏻
Piloting holes before driving in a screw is preferred when using kiln dried wood or when studs are dry (old stock that has fully dried). Most wood studs purchased from a supplier are still damp and is less likely to split when screws or nails are driven into them at ends. Using two wood shims for a stud that is too short is better since cardboard may compress over time and become loose again.
Lol!So I guess I have to go apologize to a few guys I know that "stretch" frame all the time.🤫🤤
I always drill pilot or clearance holes its just good practice I think.
Those looks like to be GRK screws, they need no pre drilling
You guys are crazy😂 must take a month to put up a wall
@@ryanb6658 You are correct about taking a month if a pilot hole is needed to toe nail a stud to a mud sill. Screws should never be used for framing since most of the stress are shearing and a screw will snap. Screws are used for resisting pulling forces (deck surfaces) while nails resist sideways movement (shearing) and if there is a risk of pulling forces, nails are toe nailed in two opposite sides to help resist pulling forces.
Love the video! What type size screws are those
excelent professional JOB!
Thank you for this.
Thats pretty cool thanks man
Thanks for the tip.
So easy! God, I was turning it into a science with a Kreg jig to frame up some floating shelves and This. Is. Way. Easier!
With narrower studs alternating which side (room) they butt against you'll separate each outer wall which should reduce noise transmission between the two rooms, even if you don't fill the gap with wool.
I'll be danged. I am 53 years old, and you just made me measure my fingertips. I have an inch in my pointer, and 1 1/4 inch on my F you finger. I have been carrying these little measuring sticks around with me since the day I reached full growth, and I never knew it.
NICE!
This makes me ponder, though. Do Canadians have metric fingers?
A spacer block with a framing-nailer is much faster, and doesn't wear through driver-bits. That combo also works well with joist hangers and hurricane straps.
Thank you!
Brilliant, thanks
A habit of wiping splinters will eventually snag you one!! LoL thank's for the tips fellow old man, 🥰
Impact drills are the greatest inventions for tools in the last 2 decades.
I noticed your 'holding' screws looked a bit bent after toe-screwing the stud. I was experimenting using a short piece of batten as a retainer - screw it in place across the base, but the vertical stud up to it then remove after the 2 screws are skewed in. Same principle.
Done a bunch of these over the past year during my home build but didn’t think of the first two screws to stop it moving. Had my share of splits and studs that needing stretching too.
A trick to stop the screw splitting the wood: set the drill on reverse and then backspin the screw for a half second to burn the wood. Then set the drill to forward and drive the screw. It really works.
Great video and information
Never use screws for rough framing especially on exterior walls or trusses. Nails have 10x more shear strength and can bend/flex without breaking.
15+ years trade experience here, 5 years being nothing but rough end carpentry.
Really? There's nothing wrong with using screws for framing if that's what your comfortable with and they're installed properly. This wall and pretty much all of rough framing is under compression not tension so shear is not an issue. The only time shear matters in framing is when using steel hangers and you must always use hangers nails which is a requirement in the building code, inspectors could care less if you use nails or screws in framing. Also it's not ten times more, 3 or 4 times more tops is more like it with collated nails, a bit more with twist shank hand bangers.
U are right .
@@eutimiochavez415 you are wrong, screws more expensive, and slower for a professional. Set it, 2 whacks with my Estwing. Off line? Gentle tap, perfect. Guy wouldn't last a day on a real job . 40 year carpenter.
@@richardking3967 I was 37 years on the job and now retired for 12 and I wasn't commenting on what professionals use, I stated you use what your comfortable with and that screws pass inspection, never talked about cost. Half of my career was banging nails and when cordless drills became available I with just about everyone else used screws where they were better suited, just like using a palm nailer on joist hangers. People use screws cause they suck at hammering, didn't say I was one of them.
I spent 94 years framing houses and this guy wouldn’t last eight seconds.
I’m kidding. I find all these “years on the job” posts so entertaining.
I’m a diyer and currently framing my basement. If I have to build the wall in place I’m using screws. I like their accuracy, superior pull out, and reset ability if needed.
Thanks a million.
Same method I use, except I don't use the back up screws. Once you have the screw started and then at the correct angle, It's easy to hold the stud with one hand while putting the screws in. It does help to cut your studs snug.
Good stuff!
I am planning to build a privacy panel on my deck and going to use a 4 x 4 to which I will attach 2 x 4s. Can I apply it to my 4 x 4 as well like you have shown here?
I like your drill! A lot of time saved when changing bits. What model is it? Awesome technique! Thank you for sharing.
Thank you. It's a DEWALT DCF885 1/4" cordless impact driver. I like it very much.
Best ever. Thx from Sweden
Impressive. What screw bits are you using with your drill there?
Thank you for saving me 50 bucks to buy a jig. This works fine with the work i wanted.
Just commented almost the same thing!