6 Answers to Frequent Comments... #1- The screws I'm using in this video are #9 x 3” PowerPro interior screws. #2-I'm using screws for framing interior partitions. I am not advocating the use of screws for structural framing. Nails have more shear strength, and I used nails when framing this house addition. This video is about nothing more than a simple how-to technique for easily and accurately toenailing studs. #3-As mentioned early in this video, this same technique works for toenailing with nails. #4- The interior walls in this video can not be nailed together on the deck, then tipped up into position against a drywalled ceiling and still fit tightly. Thus, they are being built in place. #5-Yes, screws are more expensive than nails. No doubt about it. #6-Yes, screws are more time consuming to use than a nail gun, and professional framers do not use screws. But professional remodelers (which was my profession for nearly 25 years) do use them. They are a satisfying and valid option for framing walls in place. Thanks for watching this video. 👍❤
It’s sad for me to realize that there aren’t any carpenters anymore that know how to use a hammer. There really isn’t anything that is more efficient and cost effective than a combination of hand drives and a good framing gun. To me, screws are for the inexperienced, Expensive and time consuming. For toe nailing, put the toe of your boot against the stud and nail, or in your case, screw the opposite side
@Volkan I think so. There was a concern at one time that pressure treated chemicals may corrode steel fasteners, unless galvanized, but I've been told that is no longer an issue.
I bet he's go his ring finger pressed against the bottom of the board so the pencil can't move. Once he indexed off his knuckle he just locked it in. It's a good idea to measure various parts of your body, like thumb joint, hand width, wrist to elbow, etc. so you always got a ruler on you.
He measured a joint on his thumb, and uses that as a guide. He implied so. I use bits of my hands that way all the time. Measure a few bits, then you have a ruler you hopefully will never lose.
I framed houses more than forty years ago and we just jammed our boot against the base of the stud and drove the nails in from the other side. Very natural and very fast. No way they would let us take the time to be so accurate in those days. I would devise a quick-release clamp to go on the plate if I were using screws today but my construction days are long over. Nice video, you explained and illustrated well. I enjoyed it.
Yeah I do the same thing, though there are sometimes tight circumstances where neither is possible like when you are about 19" away from an end stud and you need a spare installed at 16". No room for my fat foot or all the screws and nails put in and taken out. This is where you nail a 3" piece of scrap to the bottom right next to the line and that is your brace. Sometimes it doesn't survive 2 nails plus the pressure, but that's okay because it's just a temporary brace. I mean, all this is studwork, not cabinetry. I've never even thought about being off the width of a line as a problem.
Good tip. You can also lay a 2x4 cut 14 1/2" against your previous stud so that it is 16'' on centre and repeat the process using no screws over and over. Or whatever your desired spacing happens to be. Just make sure you write on it so you don't grab the wrong piece of 2x4 lol.
I recently retired from doing this work my entire working life. I love watching you knowledgeable and competent carpenters and wood workers. One view and I subscribed.
I think tips like this are for guys like me who enjoy learning and trying different projects. Now I know I can tackle a small framing job with the tools I own. Thank you
I discovered this very technique on my own (out of necessity) but more recently after reading old carpentry books I discovered that you can do the same thing with a flat head nail - just lie 2 flat head nails with the head on the line (tips away from the new stud) and give each a tap with the hammer so the head penetrates the timber - then you can push the new stud up against the nail heads and toe nail from the other side. It's easy to lift the nails out with you fingers. Works with nailer or hammer.
This is perfect! I’m new to DIY and just have a very small area to frame out. This has made me much less anxious about the toenail process. And I already have all the tools and screws I need.
This is so helpful! We've been using this method to reframe all our exterior walls. The screws allow us to make corrections since we're not pros. You wouldn't believe the shoddy work we've uncovered! Thank you for the detailed instructions! 💖
Instead of screwing 2 screws to hold the studs in place before putting toe screws in, I pre cut a 14 1/2” and a 13 3/4” 2x4 block and use them as reusable spacers. The first space I use 13 3/4” then the rest 14 1/2” block. I put the block in place put the stud against it, toe screw, remove then place in on the other side and repeat. I feel it’s faster this way and I don’t need to level all my studs just the first one.
@@mdgrech because normally drywall edge is on stud center, but is butted on the edge against a wall or corner when you start. It insures that when you start the drywall from the corner or butt against another wall you will be on center in subsequent studs.
Thank you, very informative. I have to add a few studs in a shower area and this will let me get them squared up nicely. Good video, showing all the important steps. I also can't help but wonder why "professional framers" are watching your video and then commenting negatively? It seems to be geared for lowly DIY'ers like me. Well done.
Thank you! I’m the handy WOman at home. I had to replace some framing due to Termite damage and I was about to quit because I couldn’t figure out the proper way to replace A stud into Bottom plate. This solves my problem ❤
Well sir I enjoy your precise placement and don't fault you for it. As a carpenter for close to 50years I've come to see great benefits of screwing my studs in remodeling. Anytime a customer makes a change it's easier to make happen. Although I don't get quite a precise as you in screw placement. I find that I can make minor adjustments to the line by over tighten or backing off slightly. Your clearly a good carpenter!
I appreciate your perspective and comment here Marvin. I was a carpenter and remodeler for 25 years before moving on to other things. Screws for interior stud walls in remodeling situations are a sensible option. I'm sure you can remember when we didn't have these kinds of screws. The framing in this video is an addition on my own home. I made two changes to the layout and the changes were easier to make because the screws reverse out with no problem. Thank you. 👍 P.S. For those professionals who watch this video and think that I am advocating the use of screws for all framing applications, I am not doing that. Structural framing should be done with nails because they have more tensile strength. I framed this addition on my home with nails. This is a video specifically about toenailing (or "toe-screwing"). And, as I mention in the beginning, this technique works with nails as well as it does with screws.
@@herrickkimball Tensile strength refers to the resistance of an object to deformation and fracture under stretching load along its length, such as a rope under tension. In carpentry, the resistance of nails to pull-out is much less than the internal strength of a steel nail along its length. Screws have much greater pull-out resistance and almost always the wood will fail before the screw is stretched, unless perpendicular force is also being applied. By the time that modulus of elasticity or point of fracture become relevant, the structure has already failed. If the studs in your wall are racked 20 degrees off plumb, you don't have a wall.
Excellent video Herrick, thanks!! No matter what technique you use, it is essential to get the framing as near perfect as possible. Each step after that becomes increasingly easier. A poor framing job becomes a nightmare for the drywallers, flooring, and trim people😠.
I am a homeowner with a day job who does not do anything construction related for a living. That being said I am working on framing out my basement and Bought this ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt gun. I have done a few walls already, have probably shot a couple hundred nails through this thing and have yet to have a misfire. It works awesome, good depth on every nail if you have your compressor set right. My literal only complaint is that it is a bit heavy and my arm can get a little tired especially whrn I am nailing at odd angles. That being said I am super happy with it and would buy it again. Hoping the old girl allows me to get my whole basement finished out!
😂 Kind of true. It's an addition on my house that I started 3 years ago. The outside is done. The inside is still getting done. Building with no debt, while working full time. Should be all done next year. Or the year after. 👍
@@ryankojabashian9599 I know what u mean but obviously uve got a framing gun diys probably won’t have one so its gonna help them do it right if somewhat slowly but that said it is a great way of getting twists out of the studs when fitting I don’t know what the quality of studding is like in the states but in the uk it’s shocking trying to get straight true timber is almost impossible nowadays with all this quick grown gear that’s on the market nowadays
Great video. Great tip for toe nailing. Makes to much sense, solves the problem of the stud shifting over a little. As far as nails go, I do not remember the last one I drove in with a hammer.
I'll be danged. I am 53 years old, and you just made me measure my fingertips. I have an inch in my pointer, and 1 1/4 inch on my F you finger. I have been carrying these little measuring sticks around with me since the day I reached full growth, and I never knew it. NICE! This makes me ponder, though. Do Canadians have metric fingers?
If I find that the screws are splitting the wood I will bore a shallow hole with the driver tip prior to driving the screw and that does the trick because it's usually the head of the screw counter-sinking that splits the wood
I just happen to be about to start building a stud wall, in 20 minutes time when I finish this coffee in fact. You have just made my life easier. Thank you!
My first time building a fake stud chimney breast. Two screws to brace… priceless! Good to also learn the cardboard trick for this project as been cutting too long ‘just in case ‘ and to take off 1mm at a time is killing me
Wow I like your tricks. I used those 2-1/2 composite deck screws I had leftover to build an interior non-bearing wall. This was my first time using screws. Boy it was very strong passed inspection.
Thank you very much for your info I really appreciate that much You have no idea how many two by fours they’re open on me and I learn a lot just by watching your video thank you very much and God bless you
Awesome video. Wondered about utilizing screws for toe screwing fo years. Now will be utilizing the info in my DIY projects not for stud work, but repairing my green house. Kudos for vid. New subscriber because of this vid. Looking forward to ur next one.
I admire the guy’s courage to post it. Idiots on here that think you would ever use this method in every application show the extent of their abilities. I’ve used this method a handful of times on remodel projects when the stud length varies drastically and you have to install your bottom and top plates first and then literally measure each individual stud to frame out your wall….also very handy if you’re building a pony wall in place and are dealing with short studs that don’t “wedge” in place on the top plate. It’s a simple concept that seems to have really stumped a lot of these RUclips “experts”. Haha.
This is way better than a nail gun. A nail gun it can kick the stud slightly out or off center. I've seen it happen many times. This trick keeps the stud centered, square, and plum. This makes it so you can get the fastener back out too. With a nail gun the nail that's not possible. If a remodel is done you have to cut the stud or underneath it.
or use your hammer.. all you folks know what a hammer is right. It was the most common tool used to build a house out of wood I must say you diy's give me a lot of entertainment though have never laughed so much
Same method I use, except I don't use the back up screws. Once you have the screw started and then at the correct angle, It's easy to hold the stud with one hand while putting the screws in. It does help to cut your studs snug.
Wife buys a lot of nuts & grated cheeses in plastic containers at big box stores. I use them to put different size screws in, label size on it. Grab the size you need & head to job sight. I buy screws from stores selling them in bulk to cut cost & never over-buy the expensive ones already boxed up.
I toenailed all the studs in my wall during our renovation because it allowed me to adjust the studs to make them all flush across the surface. This way, the sheetrock is a lot flater and straight. It just makes it look better. This is just a tip to make your project look like a pro did it and not a DIYer. 😊 I'd also recommend getting a laser level as it will make this process a lot easier.
I've been working pro for decades and the one thing consistent in construction is that one guy rarely leaves something the next guy doesn't have to fix or adjust for, and that includes framers. I've also deconstructed a lot of walls and I've found that a pretty consistent characteristic over time, though I will grant that the materials were significantly better going back in time. I've harvested old used fir studs and true 2x4 roughs for future projects because they were far better materials than the pine
For framing I recommend nails. Nails have a stronger shear strength. For smaller projects or things being moved, like a shelving unit made from 2x4. I would use screws. Personally I would use the kregg system, but not hiding them is fine top. Screws have better holding power, so if something is moving or might get moved, I prefer a screw. For stationary objects I prefer a nail for its shear strength and rapid installation. There are times when this is not the case. I prefer to screw down a subfloor, mostly because I'm a flooring installer and find nail heads to often be slightly popping up, getting in the way of my pristine installation. The other times I use screws is if I just need a few anchors. It's faster for me to throw in some screws than setup air systems.
About the split out when putting in a screw. If you burn in the screw, it won’t split. Set the screw in place, put the drill in reverse and on high run it backwards with pressure until the screw actually burns a spot on the wood, then flip the drill back to forward and drill in the screw. Most of the time it will not split.
Put a trigger clamp across the bottom of the stud. It stops the end splitting and helps the edges to stay aligned. As for studs cut short just use a plywood shim. It goes s better job and the hassle will make you cut the timber more carefully.
Thank you so very much for your valuable information! I am going to be framing in a chicken run with 2x4s this was so helpful! I was wondering how I was going to effectively attach my 2x4s using the toe mail method!
Awesome, I have to enlarge a rough opening for an exterior door from garage to dining room. Need new king, jack, and header made and cut the sill plate back when done.
If I have access to the backside of the stud, should I still go ahead and fasten it like shown in the video? Or should I instead put long screws from the other side into the endgrain?
You can use a piece of two by four with a single screw. When you unscrew the screw it stays in the block ready for the next stud. make a 7-inch piece cut with a chop saw, have the screw centered, about an inch and a quarter in on the opposite side of the stud line.
Hello, im about to do pergola, is your toenail studs in the video is enough to carry me without joist hanger, when i put my twinwall polycarbonate roof on the top? Thank you very much.
another trick to keep the wood from splitting is after you've gotten the screw just started into the wood, reverse the drill and run it backwards a little bit while holding the screw in place. then just screw it in and it prevents the wood from splitting.
How does this work? The splitting is caused by the screw going into the wood. Not by the wood caring about if the screw is going forwards or backwards or whatever. Please explain
With narrower studs alternating which side (room) they butt against you'll separate each outer wall which should reduce noise transmission between the two rooms, even if you don't fill the gap with wool.
Never use screws for rough framing especially on exterior walls or trusses. Nails have 10x more shear strength and can bend/flex without breaking. 15+ years trade experience here, 5 years being nothing but rough end carpentry.
Really? There's nothing wrong with using screws for framing if that's what your comfortable with and they're installed properly. This wall and pretty much all of rough framing is under compression not tension so shear is not an issue. The only time shear matters in framing is when using steel hangers and you must always use hangers nails which is a requirement in the building code, inspectors could care less if you use nails or screws in framing. Also it's not ten times more, 3 or 4 times more tops is more like it with collated nails, a bit more with twist shank hand bangers.
@@eutimiochavez415 you are wrong, screws more expensive, and slower for a professional. Set it, 2 whacks with my Estwing. Off line? Gentle tap, perfect. Guy wouldn't last a day on a real job . 40 year carpenter.
@@richardking3967 I was 37 years on the job and now retired for 12 and I wasn't commenting on what professionals use, I stated you use what your comfortable with and that screws pass inspection, never talked about cost. Half of my career was banging nails and when cordless drills became available I with just about everyone else used screws where they were better suited, just like using a palm nailer on joist hangers. People use screws cause they suck at hammering, didn't say I was one of them.
I spent 94 years framing houses and this guy wouldn’t last eight seconds. I’m kidding. I find all these “years on the job” posts so entertaining. I’m a diyer and currently framing my basement. If I have to build the wall in place I’m using screws. I like their accuracy, superior pull out, and reset ability if needed.
Now I know I’ll never be a good carpenter. That free-hand 1 1/4” has always equaled at least 6” in my mind for at least 40yrs…. Seriously, how did you keep the screws from popping out the other side of that wood. That’s another sensational “feel”, for what angle you’re putting those screws in. There was absolutely NO room for error with that. Very impressive.
A spacer block with a framing-nailer is much faster, and doesn't wear through driver-bits. That combo also works well with joist hangers and hurricane straps.
A trick to stop the screw splitting the wood: set the drill on reverse and then backspin the screw for a half second to burn the wood. Then set the drill to forward and drive the screw. It really works.
interesting video. I put my foot behind the stud and drive 2 - 2 1/2 nails then fire another couple from the other side to knock it to the line. You also have to look at the twist of the stud ... sometimes you change the order of nailing to take twist out of the stud. The only screws you are allowed to use in framing are special framing screws according to our BC because common screws tend to break in shear whereas nails bend before they snap. They are EXPENSIVE as opposed to nails and a carpenter can drive a nail faster and easier than a screw ... your mileage may vary.
Have to say this, Before nail guns and screwing everything with a bat-op. I used to frame with a crew. The second week on the job I started doing this wih nails so the rafters woud set almost perfectly on the layout mark, that was 1970. And it still works today. lol
I got started in the building trades in 1976. By 1980 I was working full time. Nail guns were nowhere around my area of the country then. And it was the mid 1980s when drywall screws came on the market. I also used this toenail technique with nails long before screws. Many times I used it to toenail floor joists to a ledger. If there were joist hangers back then, I didn’t know it. I appreciate your comment. 👍🏻
@@herrickkimball Look's like us the old guys have learned a few things over the years. I thought it was pretty cool, when guys who had been on the job years before me just took notice to this technique. They tried it a couple of times but, always went back to their old ways,lol.
How do you toenail when you can only access one side of the board? Repairing termite damage and leaving the sheathing on so only one side of header exposed.
Drill shank-diameter clearance holes at an angle through the first piece of wood for your fasteners. Position the wood back a little from where you want it, so that it will be right where you want it with a little sideways pressure from the toenail.
here's a bonus tip click on settings go to playback speed click on 1.75 and Your 😁... i really appreciate You taking the time out to make this video Thank you
I am planning to build a privacy panel on my deck and going to use a 4 x 4 to which I will attach 2 x 4s. Can I apply it to my 4 x 4 as well like you have shown here?
Instead of starting the screws on your bottom board just put them into the stud and start them and then go to the other side and put in the middle one but sync it all the way and then go back to the side and put in the first two it'll save you a lot of time you can still adjust with your screws you don't waste all your time putting into screws you got to take back out can you get the same effect
I just shoot the studs in place using a battery operated trim gun, Then follow up with the screws, it is so much faster! You should predrill with a countersink bit, it's the taper in the head of the screw that splits the wood!
Framing a house with screws will fail inspection as far as I know. Check your local building code. I suspect it has do with expansion, settling as well seasonal environmental factors. Screws brake were as nails twist and bend. If you've ever dismantled a wooden structure fastened with screws you will find a high percentage of them to be broken, were as broken nails are rarely encountered.
This has been true for many years, however now there are structural screws available from manufacturers like GRX and Simpson which are rated for framing and structural use. Have used them plenty of times for framing in multiple states now, they are allowable by most building codes these days, but it never hurts to check.
6 Answers to Frequent Comments...
#1- The screws I'm using in this video are #9 x 3” PowerPro interior screws.
#2-I'm using screws for framing interior partitions. I am not advocating the use of screws for structural framing. Nails have more shear strength, and I used nails when framing this house addition. This video is about nothing more than a simple how-to technique for easily and accurately toenailing studs.
#3-As mentioned early in this video, this same technique works for toenailing with nails.
#4- The interior walls in this video can not be nailed together on the deck, then tipped up into position against a drywalled ceiling and still fit tightly. Thus, they are being built in place.
#5-Yes, screws are more expensive than nails. No doubt about it.
#6-Yes, screws are more time consuming to use than a nail gun, and professional framers do not use screws. But professional remodelers (which was my profession for nearly 25 years) do use them. They are a satisfying and valid option for framing walls in place.
Thanks for watching this video. 👍❤
It’s sad for me to realize that there aren’t any carpenters anymore that know how to use a hammer. There really isn’t anything that is more efficient and cost effective than a combination of hand drives and a good framing gun. To me, screws are for the inexperienced, Expensive and time consuming. For toe nailing, put the toe of your boot against the stud and nail, or in your case, screw the opposite side
@Volkan I think so. There was a concern at one time that pressure treated chemicals may corrode steel fasteners, unless galvanized, but I've been told that is no longer an issue.
@@herrickkimball what kind of screws are you using? What size etc? I’m not good enough to see it.0
@@bryanutility9609 #9 x 3" Power Pro. More information is in the pinned comment (the top comment on this page).
@@herrickkimball now I see it thanks!
As soon as he freehanded that 1-1/4" line perfectly, I knew I could trust this man with my life.
Looked more like 1-1/2" to me, but my eyes ain't what they used to be😅.
Looked to me like when he flipped it over, another piece of wood without the knot was there with another line, so who knows if he got it right lol.
@@hidinfrombiden1734 Nope, was definitely 1-1/4" on the dot.
I bet he's go his ring finger pressed against the bottom of the board so the pencil can't move. Once he indexed off his knuckle he just locked it in. It's a good idea to measure various parts of your body, like thumb joint, hand width, wrist to elbow, etc. so you always got a ruler on you.
He measured a joint on his thumb, and uses that as a guide. He implied so. I use bits of my hands that way all the time. Measure a few bits, then you have a ruler you hopefully will never lose.
I framed houses more than forty years ago and we just jammed our boot against the base of the stud and drove the nails in from the other side. Very natural and very fast. No way they would let us take the time to be so accurate in those days. I would devise a quick-release clamp to go on the plate if I were using screws today but my construction days are long over. Nice video, you explained and illustrated well. I enjoyed it.
I still do it with my boot too, works fine. I wedge it a bit past the line, when I shoot the nail it knocks over to the right spot.
Yeah I do the same thing, though there are sometimes tight circumstances where neither is possible like when you are about 19" away from an end stud and you need a spare installed at 16". No room for my fat foot or all the screws and nails put in and taken out. This is where you nail a 3" piece of scrap to the bottom right next to the line and that is your brace. Sometimes it doesn't survive 2 nails plus the pressure, but that's okay because it's just a temporary brace. I mean, all this is studwork, not cabinetry. I've never even thought about being off the width of a line as a problem.
Now I know why it's called toe nailing
exactly
Good tip. You can also lay a 2x4 cut 14 1/2" against your previous stud so that it is 16'' on centre and repeat the process using no screws over and over. Or whatever your desired spacing happens to be. Just make sure you write on it so you don't grab the wrong piece of 2x4 lol.
Exactly what I do so they stay put
Exactly
Wow, my head just exploded. Such an easy solution but I've never thought of it.
Easily repeated and STRONG as hell
Thanks for that tip .being a home owner and getting ready to do work on a Cabin that needs framing on the inside..
I recently retired from doing this work my entire working life. I love watching you knowledgeable and competent carpenters and wood workers. One view and I subscribed.
I think tips like this are for guys like me who enjoy learning and trying different projects. Now I know I can tackle a small framing job with the tools I own. Thank you
I discovered this very technique on my own (out of necessity) but more recently after reading old carpentry books I discovered that you can do the same thing with a flat head nail - just lie 2 flat head nails with the head on the line (tips away from the new stud) and give each a tap with the hammer so the head penetrates the timber - then you can push the new stud up against the nail heads and toe nail from the other side. It's easy to lift the nails out with you fingers. Works with nailer or hammer.
I like it. Thanks for the comment.
Or cut a 14.5" piece of stud and lay it in place butted against already installed stud. Then just pick it up after installing first two screws/nails.
@@williammoore4380 you can certainly do that but you might want a different spacing between members.
@@AS-zw4lk ?? 16 on centre isn’t happy for you ?
@@justinstevenson2061 have you ever built a wall? Not every stud can be placed 16, particularly if have to work around obstacles.
This is perfect! I’m new to DIY and just have a very small area to frame out. This has made me much less anxious about the toenail process. And I already have all the tools and screws I need.
Awesome video for DIY enthusiasts who don't understand best practices. Thanks for this!
This is so helpful! We've been using this method to reframe all our exterior walls. The screws allow us to make corrections since we're not pros. You wouldn't believe the shoddy work we've uncovered! Thank you for the detailed instructions! 💖
Instead of screwing 2 screws to hold the studs in place before putting toe screws in, I pre cut a 14 1/2” and a 13 3/4” 2x4 block and use them as reusable spacers. The first space I use 13 3/4” then the rest 14 1/2” block. I put the block in place put the stud against it, toe screw, remove then place in on the other side and repeat. I feel it’s faster this way and I don’t need to level all my studs just the first one.
Yeah I "invented" that technique too! The studs kept twisting as I tried to screw them in, now I do it all the time.
@@SnakeHandler-g7u Darn, I should've patented that technique before a million of you guys invented it as well.
why use a 13 3/4 to place the first stud?
@@mdgrech because normally drywall edge is on stud center, but is butted on the edge against a wall or corner when you start. It insures that when you start the drywall from the corner or butt against another wall you will be on center in subsequent studs.
that inch and a quarter free hand was super!
That was impressive, wasn't it?
Thank you for sharing this. I'm terrible with nails, so this was a perfect demonstration 🙏💫
Thank you, very informative. I have to add a few studs in a shower area and this will let me get them squared up nicely. Good video, showing all the important steps. I also can't help but wonder why "professional framers" are watching your video and then commenting negatively? It seems to be geared for lowly DIY'ers like me. Well done.
I got down on myself yesterday because I was doing it all wrong so I'm glad I found your video. Im new to DIY so thank you
Thank you! I’m the handy WOman at home. I had to replace some framing due to
Termite damage and I was about to quit because I couldn’t figure out the proper way to replace
A stud into
Bottom plate. This solves my problem ❤
Well sir I enjoy your precise placement and don't fault you for it. As a carpenter for close to 50years I've come to see great benefits of screwing my studs in remodeling. Anytime a customer makes a change it's easier to make happen. Although I don't get quite a precise as you in screw placement. I find that I can make minor adjustments to the line by over tighten or backing off slightly. Your clearly a good carpenter!
I appreciate your perspective and comment here Marvin. I was a carpenter and remodeler for 25 years before moving on to other things. Screws for interior stud walls in remodeling situations are a sensible option. I'm sure you can remember when we didn't have these kinds of screws. The framing in this video is an addition on my own home. I made two changes to the layout and the changes were easier to make because the screws reverse out with no problem. Thank you. 👍
P.S. For those professionals who watch this video and think that I am advocating the use of screws for all framing applications, I am not doing that. Structural framing should be done with nails because they have more tensile strength. I framed this addition on my home with nails. This is a video specifically about toenailing (or "toe-screwing"). And, as I mention in the beginning, this technique works with nails as well as it does with screws.
@@herrickkimball Tensile strength refers to the resistance of an object to deformation and fracture under stretching load along its length, such as a rope under tension.
In carpentry, the resistance of nails to pull-out is much less than the internal strength of a steel nail along its length. Screws have much greater pull-out resistance and almost always the wood will fail before the screw is stretched, unless perpendicular force is also being applied.
By the time that modulus of elasticity or point of fracture become relevant, the structure has already failed. If the studs in your wall are racked 20 degrees off plumb, you don't have a wall.
Excellent video Herrick, thanks!! No matter what technique you use, it is essential to get the framing as near perfect as possible. Each step after that becomes increasingly easier. A poor framing job becomes a nightmare for the drywallers, flooring, and trim people😠.
Great tips. This will help me when I build some internal walls in my garage. Thanks.
You gained a new subscriber today, I have become a DIY enthusiast and this video helped a great amount. Thank you!
Thank you. I am a rookie DIYer and these tips are life saving.
Thank you for this great hack. You saved me a trip to HD.
I am a homeowner with a day job who does not do anything construction related for a living. That being said I am working on framing out my basement and Bought this ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt gun. I have done a few walls already, have probably shot a couple hundred nails through this thing and have yet to have a misfire. It works awesome, good depth on every nail if you have your compressor set right. My literal only complaint is that it is a bit heavy and my arm can get a little tired especially whrn I am nailing at odd angles. That being said I am super happy with it and would buy it again. Hoping the old girl allows me to get my whole basement finished out!
Did you frame walls with a brad nailer?
@@JobsiteJohnny-nn5zy and he thought it was heavy hahahahhahahaha
Legend has it that he is still building this wall
😂 Kind of true. It's an addition on my house that I started 3 years ago. The outside is done. The inside is still getting done. Building with no debt, while working full time. Should be all done next year. Or the year after. 👍
Hahahaha. So good. Good on him for making it perfect, but I would make 5$/day if I took this approach to all my projects.
@@ryankojabashian9599 I know what u mean but obviously uve got a framing gun diys probably won’t have one so its gonna help them do it right if somewhat slowly but that said it is a great way of getting twists out of the studs when fitting I don’t know what the quality of studding is like in the states but in the uk it’s shocking trying to get straight true timber is almost impossible nowadays with all this quick grown gear that’s on the market nowadays
Lol, like Trump
@@kendodd8734 it's the same way here in the states, nothing like the good stuff in old days
Learning to be a carpenter, I was informed that proficiency in toenailing would be mine after driving 10,000 nails. I’m pretty good at it now.
😂
I’m sure you would have finished putting in 3 8d nails by the time he set the two backing screws. Lol.
For stretching a stud, i use layers of boxboard (cereal box). Won't compress like cardboard
just buy a board stretcher..... they sell them at home depot
Nicely done. I did learn some stuff here. The pre-drill has always been my favorite technique, as an amateur.
Great video.
Great tip for toe nailing.
Makes to much sense, solves the problem of the stud shifting over a little.
As far as nails go, I do not remember the last one I drove in with a hammer.
I'll be danged. I am 53 years old, and you just made me measure my fingertips. I have an inch in my pointer, and 1 1/4 inch on my F you finger. I have been carrying these little measuring sticks around with me since the day I reached full growth, and I never knew it.
NICE!
This makes me ponder, though. Do Canadians have metric fingers?
Great video! Question…did you ever consider using a 15 inch 2x4 spacer block to hold the stud in place instead of using the 2 screws?
Yes, I've used the spacer block idea. 👍
Thank you because I was struggling with trying to do a toe nail on the stud.
If I find that the screws are splitting the wood I will bore a shallow hole with the driver tip prior to driving the screw and that does the trick because it's usually the head of the screw counter-sinking that splits the wood
I just happen to be about to start building a stud wall, in 20 minutes time when I finish this coffee in fact. You have just made my life easier. Thank you!
What was your wall for?
When I do it, it’s like calculating the angle of entry for space x. This guy makes it look easy.
Impact drills are the greatest inventions for tools in the last 2 decades.
My first time building a fake stud chimney breast. Two screws to brace… priceless!
Good to also learn the cardboard trick for this project as been cutting too long ‘just in case ‘ and to take off 1mm at a time is killing me
Wow I like your tricks. I used those 2-1/2 composite deck screws I had leftover to build an interior non-bearing wall. This was my first time using screws. Boy it was very strong passed inspection.
Thank you very much for your info
I really appreciate that much
You have no idea how many two by fours they’re open on me and I learn a lot just by watching your video thank you very much and God bless you
I like the Milwaukee bits with the DeWalt driver... lol :)
DelWauky
Awesome video. Wondered about utilizing screws for toe screwing fo years. Now will be utilizing the info in my DIY projects not for stud work, but repairing my green house. Kudos for vid. New subscriber because of this vid. Looking forward to ur next one.
I personally wouldn't use screws because they break while nails will bend with movement
I learned SO much here. Thanks!
I admire the guy’s courage to post it. Idiots on here that think you would ever use this method in every application show the extent of their abilities. I’ve used this method a handful of times on remodel projects when the stud length varies drastically and you have to install your bottom and top plates first and then literally measure each individual stud to frame out your wall….also very handy if you’re building a pony wall in place and are dealing with short studs that don’t “wedge” in place on the top plate. It’s a simple concept that seems to have really stumped a lot of these RUclips “experts”. Haha.
Thank you ayn
Oh wow, this is such a great video and great trick that I've just learned. Thank you very much!
Can you use this technique to attach a joist to a rim-joist when both are atop a top plate if you don't have access to the back side of the rim joist?
Some may disagree with me, but yes is my answer. 👍
This is way better than a nail gun. A nail gun it can kick the stud slightly out or off center. I've seen it happen many times. This trick keeps the stud centered, square, and plum. This makes it so you can get the fastener back out too. With a nail gun the nail that's not possible. If a remodel is done you have to cut the stud or underneath it.
or use your hammer.. all you folks know what a hammer is right. It was the most common tool used to build a house out of wood I must say you diy's give me a lot of entertainment though have never laughed so much
Same method I use, except I don't use the back up screws. Once you have the screw started and then at the correct angle, It's easy to hold the stud with one hand while putting the screws in. It does help to cut your studs snug.
Thanks a lot Herrick. This helped me a ton. I never comment on a video but i am genuinely thankful for this tutorial. Thanks a lot again
Wife buys a lot of nuts & grated cheeses in plastic containers at big box stores. I use them to put different size screws in, label size on it. Grab the size you need & head to job sight.
I buy screws from stores selling them in bulk to cut cost & never over-buy the expensive ones already boxed up.
I toenailed all the studs in my wall during our renovation because it allowed me to adjust the studs to make them all flush across the surface. This way, the sheetrock is a lot flater and straight. It just makes it look better. This is just a tip to make your project look like a pro did it and not a DIYer. 😊 I'd also recommend getting a laser level as it will make this process a lot easier.
I've been working pro for decades and the one thing consistent in construction is that one guy rarely leaves something the next guy doesn't have to fix or adjust for, and that includes framers. I've also deconstructed a lot of walls and I've found that a pretty consistent characteristic over time, though I will grant that the materials were significantly better going back in time. I've harvested old used fir studs and true 2x4 roughs for future projects because they were far better materials than the pine
Perfect, watched three times. I just have to ask why not put the two screws just over the line?
First name HERRICK! One of only 20 or so I have found around the world. Cheers,and nice video.
Hello Herrick. You are the first first-name Herrick I know of, besides my grandfather and first-born son. 👍
For framing I recommend nails. Nails have a stronger shear strength. For smaller projects or things being moved, like a shelving unit made from 2x4. I would use screws. Personally I would use the kregg system, but not hiding them is fine top.
Screws have better holding power, so if something is moving or might get moved, I prefer a screw. For stationary objects I prefer a nail for its shear strength and rapid installation.
There are times when this is not the case. I prefer to screw down a subfloor, mostly because I'm a flooring installer and find nail heads to often be slightly popping up, getting in the way of my pristine installation. The other times I use screws is if I just need a few anchors. It's faster for me to throw in some screws than setup air systems.
About the split out when putting in a screw. If you burn in the screw, it won’t split. Set the screw in place, put the drill in reverse and on high run it backwards with pressure until the screw actually burns a spot on the wood, then flip the drill back to forward and drill in the screw. Most of the time it will not split.
i commented the same thing!
Put a trigger clamp across the bottom of the stud. It stops the end splitting and helps the edges to stay aligned.
As for studs cut short just use a plywood shim. It goes s better job and the hassle will make you cut the timber more carefully.
Thank you so very much for your valuable information! I am going to be framing in a chicken run with 2x4s this was so helpful! I was wondering how I was going to effectively attach my 2x4s using the toe mail method!
Awesome, I have to enlarge a rough opening for an exterior door from garage to dining room. Need new king, jack, and header made and cut the sill plate back when done.
If I have access to the backside of the stud, should I still go ahead and fasten it like shown in the video? Or should I instead put long screws from the other side into the endgrain?
@@Asbiss If I understand correctly, just nail or screw into the end grain of the stud and that will be good. 👍
sweet video, learning to build with wood and making my first piece of furniture right now and this was super helpful
Glad I finally figured out the secrets of wood stretching!
You can use a piece of two by four with a single screw. When you unscrew the screw it stays in the block ready for the next stud.
make a 7-inch piece cut with a chop saw, have the screw centered, about an inch and a quarter in on the opposite side of the stud line.
Great reply
A steel washer helps keep that piece of wood stay useful for longer, I use it all the time.
@@ixer76 My new trick is a Milwaukee 23gauge pinner with 1 3/8 headless pins, 700pins with one charge of the smallest battery
Can I use this technique for reframing windows?
The edges don't split if the wood is dry ?
Wow right off the bat
I’ll be trying this to see how accurate it is. No rough framing around here
Hello, im about to do pergola, is your toenail studs in the video is enough to carry me without joist hanger, when i put my twinwall polycarbonate roof on the top? Thank you very much.
I would say so, yes. Properly toenailed joists are remarkably strong for holding joists.
another trick to keep the wood from splitting is after you've gotten the screw just started into the wood, reverse the drill and run it backwards a little bit while holding the screw in place. then just screw it in and it prevents the wood from splitting.
Or do the right thing and pilot drill. Because screws split wood period.
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 try it. much quicker and it works every time.
How does this work? The splitting is caused by the screw going into the wood. Not by the wood caring about if the screw is going forwards or backwards or whatever. Please explain
Freaking genius!!!!! Thank you sir. I’m a mechanical engineer but I’m wood work challenged.
With narrower studs alternating which side (room) they butt against you'll separate each outer wall which should reduce noise transmission between the two rooms, even if you don't fill the gap with wool.
I hammered the like button like he said, but now i need a new tablet...
Cut the noggin and use it as a spacer to keep the upright in place makes for identical noggins as well
Never use screws for rough framing especially on exterior walls or trusses. Nails have 10x more shear strength and can bend/flex without breaking.
15+ years trade experience here, 5 years being nothing but rough end carpentry.
Really? There's nothing wrong with using screws for framing if that's what your comfortable with and they're installed properly. This wall and pretty much all of rough framing is under compression not tension so shear is not an issue. The only time shear matters in framing is when using steel hangers and you must always use hangers nails which is a requirement in the building code, inspectors could care less if you use nails or screws in framing. Also it's not ten times more, 3 or 4 times more tops is more like it with collated nails, a bit more with twist shank hand bangers.
U are right .
@@eutimiochavez415 you are wrong, screws more expensive, and slower for a professional. Set it, 2 whacks with my Estwing. Off line? Gentle tap, perfect. Guy wouldn't last a day on a real job . 40 year carpenter.
@@richardking3967 I was 37 years on the job and now retired for 12 and I wasn't commenting on what professionals use, I stated you use what your comfortable with and that screws pass inspection, never talked about cost. Half of my career was banging nails and when cordless drills became available I with just about everyone else used screws where they were better suited, just like using a palm nailer on joist hangers. People use screws cause they suck at hammering, didn't say I was one of them.
I spent 94 years framing houses and this guy wouldn’t last eight seconds.
I’m kidding. I find all these “years on the job” posts so entertaining.
I’m a diyer and currently framing my basement. If I have to build the wall in place I’m using screws. I like their accuracy, superior pull out, and reset ability if needed.
Now I know I’ll never be a good carpenter. That free-hand 1 1/4” has always equaled at least 6” in my mind for at least 40yrs…. Seriously, how did you keep the screws from popping out the other side of that wood. That’s another sensational “feel”, for what angle you’re putting those screws in. There was absolutely NO room for error with that. Very impressive.
A spacer block with a framing-nailer is much faster, and doesn't wear through driver-bits. That combo also works well with joist hangers and hurricane straps.
have never seen a wood screw with that head, here in Canada they will typically be a red Robertson head, good video
A habit of wiping splinters will eventually snag you one!! LoL thank's for the tips fellow old man, 🥰
A trick to stop the screw splitting the wood: set the drill on reverse and then backspin the screw for a half second to burn the wood. Then set the drill to forward and drive the screw. It really works.
Great tip! I never would have thought about doing that. Thank you for the education.
How is the top part being held. Most of the time as a first time DIYer for me the toughest part is holding the screws together.
If the stud is cut to corect length, the tight fit will hold the top in place until it can be secured like the bottom.
Insightful and well presented. Thanks!
I'm learning DIY and found this really useful, Thanks👍
How many days does it take you to frame one wall?
Great tips - you are fabulous!
Thank you for sharing!
Do the toenail screws go all the way through to the plywood?
No. Not quite.
So I have to the same thing to the top
Of the stud?
interesting video. I put my foot behind the stud and drive 2 - 2 1/2 nails then fire another couple from the other side to knock it to the line. You also have to look at the twist of the stud ... sometimes you change the order of nailing to take twist out of the stud. The only screws you are allowed to use in framing are special framing screws according to our BC because common screws tend to break in shear whereas nails bend before they snap. They are EXPENSIVE as opposed to nails and a carpenter can drive a nail faster and easier than a screw ... your mileage may vary.
Amazing builder…I want to be like you when I grow up! I’m 66 now.
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Have to say this, Before nail guns and screwing everything with a bat-op. I used to frame with a crew. The second week on the job I started doing this wih nails so the rafters woud set almost perfectly on the layout mark, that was 1970. And it still works today. lol
I got started in the building trades in 1976. By 1980 I was working full time. Nail guns were nowhere around my area of the country then. And it was the mid 1980s when drywall screws came on the market. I also used this toenail technique with nails long before screws. Many times I used it to toenail floor joists to a ledger. If there were joist hangers back then, I didn’t know it. I appreciate your comment. 👍🏻
@@herrickkimball Look's like us the old guys have learned a few things over the years. I thought it was pretty cool, when guys who had been on the job years before me just took notice to this technique. They tried it a couple of times but, always went back to their old ways,lol.
How did you attach the bottom
Plate to subfloor?
What if you can only see one side of the stud? Is it ok to put the screws on the edges?
@@temptedadverse Not ideal but yes. Just don’t split the wood. 👍
Building a floating bench in my mud room this really helped me with the supports
How do you toenail when you can only access one side of the board? Repairing termite damage and leaving the sheathing on so only one side of header exposed.
Drill shank-diameter clearance holes at an angle through the first piece of wood for your fasteners. Position the wood back a little from where you want it, so that it will be right where you want it with a little sideways pressure from the toenail.
here's a bonus tip click on settings go to playback speed click on 1.75 and Your 😁...
i really appreciate You taking the time out to make this video Thank you
I am planning to build a privacy panel on my deck and going to use a 4 x 4 to which I will attach 2 x 4s. Can I apply it to my 4 x 4 as well like you have shown here?
I just use a quick release clamp and a small block...takes about 5-seconds and is simple to use on both the bottom and top plates.
Instead of starting the screws on your bottom board just put them into the stud and start them and then go to the other side and put in the middle one but sync it all the way and then go back to the side and put in the first two it'll save you a lot of time you can still adjust with your screws you don't waste all your time putting into screws you got to take back out can you get the same effect
Was that a 28oz boot hammer to set the base of the stud?
dollar store pack of playing cards is very handy too and decent compressive strength, also coated
I cut the board three times and it's still too short.
You need a real board stretcher. 👍🏻
You are sneaking up on it!
Always measure once & cut 3x.
You measure....I measure....I cut....all three different!
Buy a new non rubber tape. 🤣
I just shoot the studs in place using a battery operated trim gun, Then follow up with the screws, it is so much faster! You should predrill with a countersink bit, it's the taper in the head of the screw that splits the wood!
But, how much of that screw is going into the horizontal?
By the way what kind of impact are you using ? I like that
Framing a house with screws will fail inspection as far as I know. Check your local building code. I suspect it has do with expansion, settling as well seasonal environmental factors. Screws brake were as nails twist and bend. If you've ever dismantled a wooden structure fastened with screws you will find a high percentage of them to be broken, were as broken nails are rarely encountered.
This has been true for many years, however now there are structural screws available from manufacturers like GRX and Simpson which are rated for framing and structural use. Have used them plenty of times for framing in multiple states now, they are allowable by most building codes these days, but it never hurts to check.