*Shop for this amp MT1000.1* amzn.to/3qrLV4B *Other models* MT700.1: amzn.to/3DMA9Fb MT1500.1: amzn.to/3s01l0w MT2000.1: amzn.to/3OmFCaG *Related Amps* Down4Sound JP8 v1.5: lddy.no/1gqpf Down4Sound JP3: lddy.no/1gqpe CT Sounds CT-1000.1D: amzn.to/3qgz05D SKAR Audio RP800.1D: amzn.to/45eb0iq *VIDEO AND AUDIO GEAR* Camera - iPhone 13pro 1TB - amzn.to/3nCjGvc RODE Wireless Go II Microphones: amzn.to/3Q6NVHl Shure MV7 Microphone: amzn.to/3A4OICK Zoom H4n Audio Recorder: amzn.to/3BXjVsS 960 LED Panel: amzn.to/2Sxoq3S *TEST BENCH EQUIPMENT* SMD / D'Amore Engineering Amp Dyno (AD-1): is.gd/wccad1 XS Power D1400 Batteries - amzn.to/2BPFCKW XS Power PSC60 Charger - amzn.to/2CHGcfs Fluke 1000A AC/DC Clamp Meter: amzn.to/2Rw5WDA Handheld Dyno AMM-1: is.gd/wccamm1 My Favorite Screwdriver Kit: amzn.to/2x0VzcE _DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases_
Hello, can you test the nvx xad12? I bought a chess audio 1500.1d, which is essentially the same amp and at 3 ohm sub (jbl gti w10, double 6 ohm connected in parallel in a sealef box) is making like 630w, which will be about 520 at 4 ohm
What's up BIG D loved the video in your personal opinion do you think the 1500 version of this amp would perform as well as this one did obviously being MO power hopefully
Bro I watched this video when my amp died and got one for my subs 2DVC Rockford P2D2-12 and this little amp packs a punch that my previous amp didn’t seem to do. Thanks for the videos bro saved me a lot of time and money for sure
My first ever install I did by myself had Stinger wiring back to front. Seeing them make amps is interesting. And it’s holding its own on the wattage which is amazing. Looking at how amps have evolved over the years this amp is putting out some good power but is definitely efficient. Great video!
Got the 700 watt from Amazon last week. Great looking amp. Have it running a Sundown 12 Classic in a sealed enclosure. It sounds great, very impressed! I've got it running at 2ohms and put it through it's paces on my 45 min commute to work. It wasn't even warm during that time. I'm very impressed with it so far. So much so I'm getting another one for my weekend ride. I wish they made an A/B 2 or 4 channel in this series.
Hey Big D just got the MT2000.1 Friday. And man this is a mighty little amp! It weighs 7 pounds. Very solidly built. 0 g power and ground inputs. My sheet says 2057 watts at 1ohm. It's pushing my 2 Toro Audio Force 12's hard. Thanks for the heads up on this amp! You have to test the 2000 watt one next please.
Yup! It integrated flawlessly under my steering column next to the interior light dimmer im stoked on how it actually turned out. I meant to do that for the past 5 months of ownership just got to finishing it up 😅
Big D Your channel is the Go to for me to find Current as well as Vintage Audio "TRUE" Testing & Best Applications in "Real Life" & Actual "Unbiased" Testing !! I bought 2 Audiozerone Ze1000. 1 Amplifier's online through Amazon for $85.00 each &, they are "STUPID" Strong & Reliable as I have one driving Two 12" dual Voice coil 1 ohm Subs in a Custom Designed/Built/Installed "under seat" fiberglass/wood molded enclosure with a Lithium Ion based Battery/Cap bank & it will make your Eyes "Wobble" But after seeing your Vid's on the Stinger series Amplifier's I think I'm going to buy a couple of the 2000 watt Amp's to "Strap" together for my New Dodge Ram 1500 crewcab 4x4 Bighorn as I am going to keep my 2016 Dodge Ram 1500 crewcab 4x4 Custom Audio setup as is !!
I’ve got the 1500 pushing 2 - 8” Toro Fierce @ 2 ohms. This amp is amazing for the price, I paid $159 + tax but the amount of power is insane from these little amps. Highly recommend if you are on a budget build or just want to try something new that is efficient and does rated power and some.
Saw the video after my dealer convinced me it was better than the DB Drive Speed series I called to purchase. I'm glad I listened. My son installed the 1000 watt in his CTS Cadillac pushing 2 DB Drive WDX8G1.4 wired down to 1 ohm. The amp does get very hot, and has cut off a few times, even with 0 gauge wire. So I'm thinking about going up to 2 ohm and just let him have fun with it there. At 1 ohm I'm afraid he's going to blow those 8's and those subs are 600 RMS, so it's putting out above rated power for sure!!
bro! i just bought this amp. because of this revew and let me tell you now this Amp is bad ass! I blew 2 Skar audio subs the first day I got it. I'm now running 2 Audio Pipe 8bcd4 quad magnets 1000w max. I can't believe the sound !
I just remember when I first started off, all the people who cared ran Stinger interconnects. That was too rich for my blood being a teenager who just started driving and working a low pay fast food job. I got my RCA jacks from RadioShack. I also bought things out of order and didn't prioritize properly. I bought my first subwoofers (original Rockford Fosgate Punch) before I even had a head unit. Because reasons. I borrowed a sub box from one friend who didn't even have a car, and an amp from another. Since I didn't have a head unit I just used a disc man and a cable with a headphone jack on one end and RCA outs on the other. That's right, I had all the frequencies playing through my subs. It was ghetto as could be and I loved every minute of it. Because you had to get the girls looking as you rolled down the block.
i remeber those days my buddy had tiny chevy chevette hatch back and his older brother pass down a pair of 12in impp pioneer he had 2 kenwood amps 1 for each sub no money for car radio i wired into the rcs's and we used a sony cassette walkman and it got us pulled over by the cops lol
Big D! Looong time watcher! A couple months ago I installed a 1200w Skar in my truck. I'm running 2 ohms and it's just to much for the stock electrical. I started investigating the efficiency and found your dyno run and saw really poor 73%. This amp is getting 88%! I'm sure this is going to give me a little more power without taxing the alt/batt so bad. And I think I'm excited about the frequency boost? Maybe I can get a touch more bottom end from a few 8's? Thank you for sharing this amp! Every video is fantastic!
Holy crap!! I was so excited about how awesome this amp was I was explaining to my wife, who isnt a bass head, exactly what it is we were seeing! Damn, Stinger FTW!!
I've had an MT2000.1D in my car for about a year and and am very, very happy with it. It currently is pushing two 12" db Drive G2 subs (dual 4 ohm) in a 5ft3 L-port box and it QUADS! KnuKonceptz Collossus Flex 0awg power cable, big 3, big battery
I recently did a full audio install on my new to me 98 Chevy Blazer so we have tunes, since there was nothing in it when I got it. I got a touch-screen dvd reciever, new door speakers & a good quality 1000 watt amp wiring kit. However the one thing that really surprised and impressed me were the two XXX 10" subs w/ a 1000 watt XXX brand amp. For a $400ish audio system it sounds pretty good .
@@dooflydetailguuy4349 I bought a harmony audio 1500.1 for $250 last year and it gives my 2 comp 12's all they can handle wired at .5 ohms. 4000+ watts... I am not sure how long it will last though but I slam it hard in my daily. When it blows I will buy a Taramps MD-8k.
I have the 2000.1 & I'm positive this amp will easily hit 3k rms dynamically,, I wouldn't be surprised if it crosses 4k. Definitely a gem & the price has already gone up since I bought mine.
I just installed this mt1000 watt amp with the pre loaded 12 inch stinger dc2s12b and man it hits dam hard for a single 12 best sub and amp combo for the price u won't be disappointed if ur looking to add bass to ur car ,also used there wiring kit couldn't be happier
Interesting. The only stinger product I've used is a battery isolator. And it worked for as long as I needed it to. So all good experience with stinger over here
Stinger made some nice fuse blocks and distro blocks back in the early 90's very nice to see they have grown to amps that are also good. very nice looking internals. would love to see the 2K on the DYNO, thanks for sharing
They made some pretty nice fuse blocks recently too, but theyve been discontinued. Cant remember what they were called, but they were individual ANL fuse holders that were modular and could be linked together. Was perfect for my current build, but the only places I could find them being sold had them WAY over even Stinger's own overpriced MSRP..
Stinger has finally stepped their game up. Excellent amp for such a cheap price. Great video Big D. I actually still have some of their distribution blocks from back in the day👍🏼👍🏼
Wow, I really like this amp. Gonna be hard to beat at the price point mentioned. A few more "Cons" for me are... 1. No clipping indicators. 2. No end caps to hide wires. 3. Made in China ( instead of Korea). ...but, I understand some compromises are necessary to keep cost down. Thanks for a very informative video Dereck!
...I prefer to buy American or European...but it costs much more. But the Koreans got nothing on the Chinese in manufacturing cheap electronics, the Chinese are just as good or better , if you don't mind the fact that they are being manufactured by slaves....seems a great deal, but not something I would consider...your "cons" are unreasonable considering the price...for less than $400 you could power a sub with over 1000 watts, and probably 100 x4 to the fronts and rears. ( the price of the 4 channel has not been released, probably $150 to $200)....A 1500 watt system for less than $400 bucks...unheard of, and a great buy for the novice...The gear that I buy (Helix, Brax, Match , Audiotec Fischer), would cost about $2500 for a 1500 watt system...but, it is better, and is hand made....not by slaves, but technicians..this has been my hobby for 35 years, at this point .I only want the best...but there is something foe everyone, a good sounding system can be had for a few hundred bucks...peace Brother
@@raymo6795 well, I said that for the price consumers would have to compromise on expectations. So, I understand my "Cons" are outside the price range. As far as China is concerned, my personal opinion is Made in Korea is always better than China. Not because of quality but, because of social and political concerns. But, this isn't the place for that type of discussion.
@@msh6865 …. I have similar political concerns, but, if your a young enthusiast on a budget, it seems a lot of watts for a little money…I avoid Chinese products when I can, but they do manufacture to pretty high standards, and, frankly, it is unavoidable….my Apple products are all manufactured in China. ( soon to move to India, let’s hope quality doesn’t suffer) All aftermarket head units are made in China. At least these amps were designed in the USA, by a designer from RE Audio, who were once affiliated US Amps..it’s little consolation, but, it’s something. I am from a time when all the best amps ,subs, and speakers were American made, but, cheap Chinese labor is hard to resist, and , one by one all the legacy brands moved manufacturing to China. There are few left that are made in the USA ( MMATS,TRU, Arc, Linear Power), but with many imported parts…and they cost dearly, but, I would pay it, I buy German because they best integrate into my German cars. I have a collection of American made amps of most of the legacy brands, some are 40 years old, and often lament the fact that we don’t make anything in America anymore…and many other political issues..but, as you say, this is not the place….actually, this is where I go to avoid political issues…that is the beauty of Big D✌️🇺🇸
@@raymo6795 So many, I mean double digit percentage of things I buy from China break. It's almost like China is intentionally making things that are designed to break within a short time, instead of the same item that was made 20-years ago and still working just fine! I'd rather pay more for Korea to make the amp than China for sure! The problem is, it's hard for consumers to find data on the China-made products and how long they last before they are garbage...
I've used stingers cables and such but never their amp. There's so many choices now and at this moment I'm eyeing D4S (Down 4 Sound) amps. However after seeing these tests... im starting to change my mind! What an amp
well, i bought one. at half gain it would go into protect. had to turn it to 10 o clock for it to play. driving a Kicker L7R pre loaded 2 ohm sub. did not sound better. So i went back to the original one you recommended. The JBL GTX-500. Back to great bass. Ditched the kicker for one of those new shallow mount boxes from Alpine, the 12". I'm happy i switched.
Hi Big D!!! I've been watching your channel for a while now, just wanted your input on DD Audio products. Would love to see you review an amplifier. Keep up the good work!!!!!!!!
Well mine went into protect today after playing around full tilt with the windows down and ac on. Running two alpine r 12’s (swr-1242d) 06 Silverado with 130a alt, $60 Walmart lead acid battery, big 3. Gain set lower than clipping point but ‘cabin gain’ from being in a small single cab truck might’ve sent me into clipping. Amp was cold when it went into protect. Let it rest for a bit while I checked all connections. Everything was good and was playing fine after that. Turned gain down a bit hopefully it doesn’t go back or I’ll have to up the electrical
Nope hasn’t yet, I think I did that time because I had ac on full blast and I was full tilt for long periods of time during idling where the alternator wasn’t making as much power. I’d get this amp again.
I watched this again and I can't believe Stinger amp is 93% efficient at 4 Ohms! Who else hits 93%. Plus a S/N ratio CEO rated at 90 dB. That's great. Especially at this price
@mcf3778 I guess your talking about impedance rise and actual clamped power, hence the use of the amp dyno. At 1 ohm is at 1ohm no matter if on the dyno or on speakers. The amp makes that much at 1 ohm period.
It's all about identifying your target user and designing you product to meet the requirements of that user. Every amp design is a series of choices by the engineers, who get their marching orders from the marketing department. This amp was designed to give the most bang for the buck, without any fancy frills.
Same company owns AudioControl. I got the mt1000.1 and it pairs really nice with my kicker CompQ. My only concern is that the amp gets kinda hot after a little while. I'm wondering what temperature and when thermal protection activates.
Hint: Get ya an efficient quiet/silent 12V computer fan that matches the width of the amp. You can find good ones online for $5-$15. Get some velcro, make small pieces to fit at the fans base (4 corners), do the same on the the amp that match the fan (smaller the better as long as it holds) and tie fan power into the amps 5v power turn on wire, and there ya go. Drilling a couple holes in the amp cover can also be done (since there are some holes in the bottom cover). Make sure fan is pulling air, not blowing air onto the amp. Especially if you end up mounting the amp in the trunk. If you have fold down rear seats, or access door that allows access to trunk, leave that open whenever possible in the summer so some AC cool air can reach the trunk. Adding another small quiet fan if you only have a small access opening (I think for skis I believe) isn't a bad idea to draw cool cabin air into the trunk. Just make sure to raise the amp up a little bit so it isn't sitting flush on the floor or side panels. Add some cheap speaker feet so air can draw through the bottom. And that should help alot, and make sure the amp performs a long time. Heat/getting too hot is the reason most amps simply fail over time. Especially a budget amp like this one. But with the amps efficiency ratings, you would like to think it should last. Naturally playing the amp at 4 or 2 ohms would be the best, and help reduce heat as well. I don't know why all amps don't incorporate a fan in their design. They cost most companies only a buck or two. (PS you really don't want the Thermal Protection to ever kick in on a budget amp. Most of the time the protection circuit still allows the output transisters to blow. And the amp won't turn back on unless you replace them. Which there should only be one or two for that amp. Most likely 1. You can test them using a multi-meter. And will be close to to where the speaker wires hookup usually. Usually. Sometimes you can get a "Data Sheet" for the amplifier, but that's 50/50 giving you the amps schematics. It isn't necessarily too difficult to replace if ya can de-solder, and solder. Just make sure you buy the "Exact" same brand and type of replacement transister, or you can end up with distortion, or the amp not running at all. Even looking for a date made as close to the original transister that blew. We're talking $5-$10 incl. shipping. Digi-Key is a good company to buy resisters, caps etc. and not get ripped off.). Wow, longer than I expected, but just some amp FYI. (naturally using the largest power wire possible will also help with heat).So go crank it up and annoy your neighbors! lol. If it's too loud you're too old! take care.
You must be pushing your amp to the max. I can run my MT1000.1 with the STINGER Single 12" 700 Watt (RMS) Loaded Subwoofer Enclosure | Ported 1 Ohm Subwoofer Box | Down Firing Box for Max Sound (700 Watts RMS/1200 Watts Max) MC1S12A at about 65% gain, subsonic filter at 30hz, no bass boost because it totally throws off the linearity of the subs frequency curve, and HPF set to 70 hz to 80hz depending on the music I'm playing. I got an SPL of 121db at these modest settings in my 2023 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport GT...Just think I have plenty of headroom left on the amp and still get great SPL...The amp hardly ever gets warm let alone HOT!!!
I've just ordered the 1500-watt amp and a 12in DVC sub with a down-firing enclosure at a cost of $219. The enclosure looks great with a down-firing setup and Stinger stitching. Prime shipping too!!!
@@GorillaCookies I bought the STINGER Single 12" 700 Watt (RMS) Loaded Subwoofer Enclosure | Ported 1 Ohm Subwoofer Box | Down Firing Box for Max Sound (700 Watts RMS/1200 Watts Max) MC1S12A with the Stinger MT1000.1 mono block amp. The box is insanely well constructed and braced. The port is curved at the end so port chuffing is reduced to almost nothing when powered correctly and tuning the amp to their specs. This setup can be thunderous when I want it to be and as musical as a sealed box when your not pushing the SPL to the max. Total setup with wiring kit and line converters I got ruffly $400.00 into it. My brother in law has a JL Audio W7 and my set up is way better musically but ofcourse a $1,400 subwoofer alone (doesn't include price of amp, wiring kit, and line converters he needed to but seperately) will have more SPL and will go lower hz but sounds like SH*T on real music. I don't run my box down firing it's aim to the rear of my SUV. Price to performance I don't think there is another set up than can beat it...The Stinger Amps are powerhouses and rarely ever get warm let alone hot...Buy it before they raise the prices!!!
@bigdfig6083 129.5db at the floor in the Durango. Larger enclosure, so it's definitely not for smaller trunks. I tried it in my 300, but the box is too tall, so I went with the Kicker down fire for the 300. Both are great.
sold my NVX XAD12 (Awesome amp close to 2k @ 1ohm dynamic) for this..... I didnt like the Single RCA IN connection, I have both L & R coming out of my LC2i might as well use them.. the Stinger has the Dual Input. Pushing 2 10 Alpine type S's in the HALO Boxes in the fully sound deadened Trunk of my 300 SRT! Absolutely BANGS with 0 Distortion.... The Best thing about Car Audio today is you dont have to spend a ton of $ to get a LOUD clean sounding System
Supply and demand.people see test then want said product.supplier takes note and sees opportunity to get a few more dollars out of it.capitalism at its finest...
I like that you don't need to use the bracket with the bass knob, that is a nice feature. Can mount it in a nice factory looking spot on the dash with no logos or any of that bs. Should go no logo on the bracket too, but meh, at least you can avoid using it if you want it to be a nice clean install
That's awesome. I'd like to see the 2k tested as well. But I know you buy these so that would be a rough 1. But it would be cool to know if they all perform that well. Thanks for the vid brother.
OMG BIG D! I'm going through my father in laws garage and I found a bass 48 car stereo system 4 and 8 ohm six watt from WAY back in the day. The coolest thing though is a model rr45ft original 8 track player for a car NEVER OPENED!!! It's a Ranger by Tenna!! I'm geeking out for sure!
Just bought the MT2000.1. Should get it in a couple of days. Its going to be pushing two Toro Audio Force 12's. The amp im running now is an Arc Audio 1100XD.1.
Stinger is pretty legit. A higher end shop around here carries their lines and they stand behind them 100%. They even recommended one of the Stinger head units over a “high end” pioneer head unit.
That's because 1 the the stinger head unit is decent. And 2 pioneer stoped making new high end units. Depending what you consider high end . But pioneer going down each year since they sold the brand to a Chinese holding company
Pioneer didn’t sell they went bankrupt. The new holdings company that bailed them out has not cut production of the Japanese designed high end. The 4660 the 7600 and 8600 and the w4500 have been out since before the takeover. Just because the new entry level is crap doesn’t mean the high end isn’t good. That being said. The Stinger High10 is a solid unit.
@@AudioGuru09 I don't consider those high end units the prs line is a high end unit. And not talking the 10 year old prs 80. Yes pioneer sold because of bankruptcy or just to cash out does not change they sold to a Chinese company and any new models I have seen in last few years have been garbage. And all the models before the sell out . Was 2018 why would someone buy a 5 year old new radio. I do agree those was decent units. But all signs point to when there gone there gone and the new stuff is bad
@paulgood2218 the PRS is a single din radio. The 99PRS doesnt even have Bluetooth phone call. It doesnt sell. The 80PRS i had failures on the knobs and buttons were crap even though the sound was good. If you're going to replace an oem screen in a new vehicle, you don't want a single din radio these days. Kenwood XR, Sony ES, and Alpine Status and F1 is where you should look. I think Alpine is good at the 507 and up. Most people run a Helix DSP or equivalent if real SQ is what you're after. Or run a DAC the headunit these days is a navigation and hands free source.
I’m still running an old Stinger amp that’s probably 20 years old power 2 twelves and it slams pretty good! I also live in AZ so it has endured several nasty hot summers and still keeps on going! But It’s finally starting to have a problem where it cuts out until I turn it up real loud so maybe I’ll just have to replace it with another stinger!
I bought one. Gain is a little touchy. Other than that seems to be doing fine. I have it running 1ohm on 2 tens. We will see how longevity is. It is my everyday sub amp in my Tacoma
Stinger is awesome! Their head units are also currently the best you can get! I've got a powersports 5 channel SPX1000X5 that I've bench tested, but haven't installed yet... but, wow! I'm impressed by how it sounds on the bench and the quality of the internals! ... And it's so extremely small!
When you get in the car and turn on air conditioning it can cool better but while sitting all day in heat it shuts a lot of amps off and even after ac on while it’s already hot it never cools it off especially in hot areas
Always impressive when a cheaply made product exceeds expectation. Those filter caps were really nothing to write home about. I'd imagine with a set of quality filter caps (nichicon nippon) it just be more icing on the cake ; )
I bought the 1500.1D just to have the price is crazy from Stinger. I also bought my son their 12" sub in their box 700W RMS for $150 crazy good for the money. Budget Badass!!!!!
Wow, that's a really good little amp. Would work great on a single mid grade sub or 2 lower grade subs. Or gain match maybe strap 2 on a higher grade sub. Awesome price. Another great test vid from ya. Not sure if i missed it or not, but i didn't see a gut shot on this one.
*Shop for this amp MT1000.1*
amzn.to/3qrLV4B
*Other models*
MT700.1: amzn.to/3DMA9Fb
MT1500.1: amzn.to/3s01l0w
MT2000.1: amzn.to/3OmFCaG
*Related Amps*
Down4Sound JP8 v1.5: lddy.no/1gqpf
Down4Sound JP3: lddy.no/1gqpe
CT Sounds CT-1000.1D: amzn.to/3qgz05D
SKAR Audio RP800.1D: amzn.to/45eb0iq
*VIDEO AND AUDIO GEAR*
Camera - iPhone 13pro 1TB - amzn.to/3nCjGvc
RODE Wireless Go II Microphones: amzn.to/3Q6NVHl
Shure MV7 Microphone: amzn.to/3A4OICK
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SMD / D'Amore Engineering Amp Dyno (AD-1): is.gd/wccad1
XS Power D1400 Batteries - amzn.to/2BPFCKW
XS Power PSC60 Charger - amzn.to/2CHGcfs
Fluke 1000A AC/DC Clamp Meter: amzn.to/2Rw5WDA
Handheld Dyno AMM-1: is.gd/wccamm1
My Favorite Screwdriver Kit: amzn.to/2x0VzcE
_DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases_
Hello, can you test the nvx xad12? I bought a chess audio 1500.1d, which is essentially the same amp and at 3 ohm sub (jbl gti w10, double 6 ohm connected in parallel in a sealef box) is making like 630w, which will be about 520 at 4 ohm
What's up BIG D loved the video in your personal opinion do you think the 1500 version of this amp would perform as well as this one did obviously being MO power hopefully
@@jameskay3407Highly likely.
One small error Big D, this amp is not strappable. There is no master/slave switch.
Thanx 4or this...
Bro I watched this video when my amp died and got one for my subs 2DVC Rockford P2D2-12 and this little amp packs a punch that my previous amp didn’t seem to do. Thanks for the videos bro saved me a lot of time and money for sure
How many watts was your subs?
@@JohnDRambothe P2 12’s are rated at 400 rms/ 800 dynamic if memory serves me.
Just did the same today.😅
This is everything I want in a demo bid. Straight to the point no filler just clean stats
My first ever install I did by myself had Stinger wiring back to front. Seeing them make amps is interesting. And it’s holding its own on the wattage which is amazing. Looking at how amps have evolved over the years this amp is putting out some good power but is definitely efficient. Great video!
Yeah, my first install in 2003 in my 99 lumina was all stinger wiring. Lame car, but I had 2 kicker l7 10s and a profile California ap2000 amplifier😎
@@evanperry3699 nice!! I had two comps and loved them.
Singer has been around for a long time and have always made decent cat audio equipment. 👍
Amazing how much power and can be had at such a low price. Also the efficiency is great. Stinger is a well known high quality amp.
Got the 700 watt from Amazon last week. Great looking amp. Have it running a Sundown 12 Classic in a sealed enclosure. It sounds great, very impressed! I've got it running at 2ohms and put it through it's paces on my 45 min commute to work. It wasn't even warm during that time. I'm very impressed with it so far. So much so I'm getting another one for my weekend ride. I wish they made an A/B 2 or 4 channel in this series.
Me too
Still keeping my eyes peeled hopefully
under rated and hyper efficient 👍👍 love the garage rattling
I would love to see you test the 2000 watt version of this amp!!
Hey Big D just got the MT2000.1 Friday. And man this is a mighty little amp! It weighs 7 pounds. Very solidly built. 0 g power and ground inputs. My sheet says 2057 watts at 1ohm. It's pushing my 2 Toro Audio Force 12's hard. Thanks for the heads up on this amp! You have to test the 2000 watt one next please.
I just bought the 1000.1. Super happy.
THANKS FOR THE TEST. I've been running the 1500 wat stinger for over a year . No cutting, even in the Arizona heat!!!! Amazing for the money.
Variable frequency bass boost is awesome and somewhat rare. JL Audio slash seris has this and helps set them apart in my opinion.
This is the level of detail I'm looking for. I noticed it goes down to 10hz too
I just bought the 2000.1, this amp feels heavy & seems to be pretty decent, nice to see Stinger still in the game.
Any idea if it can be wired down to .7?
@@juanvigil7049 I don't think it can run steady without trouble under 1ohm, maybe it can though.
@@juanvigil7049 im sure .7 will be fine after box rise
@@juanvigil7049he tried .67 dynamic on the 1k and it went into protect. It probably can't do it
I'm curious on how hot it gets and shutoff tendencies like he tested others. Alot left out
I love the simple bass knob. Easy to drill a hole fir custom mount location vs under dash mount.
Yup! It integrated flawlessly under my steering column next to the interior light dimmer im stoked on how it actually turned out. I meant to do that for the past 5 months of ownership just got to finishing it up 😅
Appreciate what you do on your channel!
Appreciate it Big D. I was about to get a Skar 1200 and was like hmmm whats Big D showing off today. ORDERED lol
Big D Your channel is the Go to for me to find Current as well as Vintage Audio "TRUE" Testing & Best Applications in "Real Life" & Actual "Unbiased" Testing !! I bought 2 Audiozerone Ze1000. 1 Amplifier's online through Amazon for $85.00 each &, they are "STUPID" Strong & Reliable as I have one driving Two 12" dual Voice coil 1 ohm Subs in a Custom Designed/Built/Installed "under seat" fiberglass/wood molded enclosure with a Lithium Ion based Battery/Cap bank & it will make your Eyes "Wobble" But after seeing your Vid's on the Stinger series Amplifier's I think I'm going to buy a couple of the 2000 watt Amp's to "Strap" together for my New Dodge Ram 1500 crewcab 4x4 Bighorn as I am going to keep my 2016 Dodge Ram 1500 crewcab 4x4 Custom Audio setup as is !!
I’ve got the 1500 pushing 2 - 8” Toro Fierce @ 2 ohms. This amp is amazing for the price, I paid $159 + tax but the amount of power is insane from these little amps. Highly recommend if you are on a budget build or just want to try something new that is efficient and does rated power and some.
Saw the video after my dealer convinced me it was better than the DB Drive Speed series I called to purchase. I'm glad I listened. My son installed the 1000 watt in his CTS Cadillac pushing 2 DB Drive WDX8G1.4 wired down to 1 ohm. The amp does get very hot, and has cut off a few times, even with 0 gauge wire. So I'm thinking about going up to 2 ohm and just let him have fun with it there. At 1 ohm I'm afraid he's going to blow those 8's and those subs are 600 RMS, so it's putting out above rated power for sure!!
bro! i just bought this amp. because of this revew and let me tell you now this Amp is bad ass! I blew 2 Skar audio subs the first day I got it. I'm now running 2 Audio Pipe 8bcd4 quad magnets 1000w max. I can't believe the sound !
Blown subs? Not enuff powa. Been a bass head since Moby Dick was a guppy n never blown any subs.
I just remember when I first started off, all the people who cared ran Stinger interconnects. That was too rich for my blood being a teenager who just started driving and working a low pay fast food job. I got my RCA jacks from RadioShack. I also bought things out of order and didn't prioritize properly. I bought my first subwoofers (original Rockford Fosgate Punch) before I even had a head unit. Because reasons. I borrowed a sub box from one friend who didn't even have a car, and an amp from another. Since I didn't have a head unit I just used a disc man and a cable with a headphone jack on one end and RCA outs on the other. That's right, I had all the frequencies playing through my subs. It was ghetto as could be and I loved every minute of it. Because you had to get the girls looking as you rolled down the block.
Brother that’s what you call dedication 🤘🏼 these young guns now can’t even relate to anything close to that !
i remeber those days my buddy had tiny chevy chevette hatch back and his older brother pass down a pair of 12in impp pioneer he had 2 kenwood amps 1 for each sub no money for car radio i wired into the rcs's and we used a sony cassette walkman and it got us pulled over by the cops lol
Thanks Big D! My 20 year old Mobile Audio Authority amp finally went out and went with Stinger based on your review!
Just installed mine based off your review. So far it's kicking ass!
Big D! Looong time watcher! A couple months ago I installed a 1200w Skar in my truck. I'm running 2 ohms and it's just to much for the stock electrical. I started investigating the efficiency and found your dyno run and saw really poor 73%. This amp is getting 88%! I'm sure this is going to give me a little more power without taxing the alt/batt so bad. And I think I'm excited about the frequency boost? Maybe I can get a touch more bottom end from a few 8's? Thank you for sharing this amp! Every video is fantastic!
Holy crap!! I was so excited about how awesome this amp was I was explaining to my wife, who isnt a bass head, exactly what it is we were seeing! Damn, Stinger FTW!!
Stinger was always noted for quality cables, now quality amps. Great video, thanks! Nice to know there are some good amp buys out there.
I've had an MT2000.1D in my car for about a year and and am very, very happy with it. It currently is pushing two 12" db Drive G2 subs (dual 4 ohm) in a 5ft3 L-port box and it QUADS! KnuKonceptz Collossus Flex 0awg power cable, big 3, big battery
I recently did a full audio install on my new to me 98 Chevy Blazer so we have tunes, since there was nothing in it when I got it. I got a touch-screen dvd reciever, new door speakers & a good quality 1000 watt amp wiring kit. However the one thing that really surprised and impressed me were the two XXX 10" subs w/ a 1000 watt XXX brand amp. For a $400ish audio system it sounds pretty good .
It’s really cool to see that this was designed in house. Quite a rarity in this day and age
Nice. Budget gem. Would be nice to see the 2000 watts version. Thanks man for making these video's.
They have a 2k for 179 on Amazon
@dooflydetailguuy4349 he knows that.... he said would be nice to see "the" 2k version
@@mcf3778 You're probably right
@@dooflydetailguuy4349 I bought a harmony audio 1500.1 for $250 last year and it gives my 2 comp 12's all they can handle wired at .5 ohms. 4000+ watts... I am not sure how long it will last though but I slam it hard in my daily. When it blows I will buy a Taramps MD-8k.
I have the 2000.1 & I'm positive this amp will easily hit 3k rms dynamically,, I wouldn't be surprised if it crosses 4k. Definitely a gem & the price has already gone up since I bought mine.
I just installed this mt1000 watt amp with the pre loaded 12 inch stinger dc2s12b and man it hits dam hard for a single 12 best sub and amp combo for the price u won't be disappointed if ur looking to add bass to ur car ,also used there wiring kit couldn't be happier
My first 1000 watt amp, pushing two RF 12’s and it pounds real nice … sealed bbox… clean!!
Whats the fuse rating and does it over heat amd turn off?
Interesting. The only stinger product I've used is a battery isolator. And it worked for as long as I needed it to. So all good experience with stinger over here
I second their battery isolators. Very popular and does the job. I'd also like to mention they have some very nifty sound deadening products as well.
Stinger made some nice fuse blocks and distro blocks back in the early 90's
very nice to see they have grown to amps that are also good.
very nice looking internals. would love to see the 2K on the DYNO, thanks for sharing
They made some pretty nice fuse blocks recently too, but theyve been discontinued. Cant remember what they were called, but they were individual ANL fuse holders that were modular and could be linked together. Was perfect for my current build, but the only places I could find them being sold had them WAY over even Stinger's own overpriced MSRP..
Appreciate what you do buddy keep up the awesome work!!
I bought the amp because of this video. Thanks Big D!!
Stinger has finally stepped their game up. Excellent amp for such a cheap price. Great video Big D. I actually still have some of their distribution blocks from back in the day👍🏼👍🏼
I got this amp after your testing and reviews and yet by far best bang for the buck can’t wait till they release a 4 channel for mids and highs
Thankyou for the video , this is why I love these budget test's U never know when you will find a jem 👌
That thing is a beast. Would like to see the 2000 watt model
Wow, I really like this amp. Gonna be hard to beat at the price point mentioned.
A few more "Cons" for me are...
1. No clipping indicators.
2. No end caps to hide wires.
3. Made in China ( instead of Korea).
...but, I understand some compromises are necessary to keep cost down.
Thanks for a very informative video Dereck!
...I prefer to buy American or European...but it costs much more. But the Koreans got nothing on the Chinese in manufacturing cheap electronics, the Chinese are just as good or better , if you don't mind the fact that they are being manufactured by slaves....seems a great deal, but not something I would consider...your "cons" are unreasonable considering the price...for less than $400 you could power a sub with over 1000 watts, and probably 100 x4 to the fronts and rears. ( the price of the 4 channel has not been released, probably $150 to $200)....A 1500 watt system for less than $400 bucks...unheard of, and a great buy for the novice...The gear that I buy (Helix, Brax, Match , Audiotec Fischer), would cost about $2500 for a 1500 watt system...but, it is better, and is hand made....not by slaves, but technicians..this has been my hobby for 35 years, at this point .I only want the best...but there is something foe everyone, a good sounding system can be had for a few hundred bucks...peace Brother
At $120 and 1600 watts RMS into 1 ohm, beggars can't be choosers. You could go and spend over $300 on a Kicker 1200.1 and make even less power.
@@raymo6795 well, I said that for the price consumers would have to compromise on expectations. So, I understand my "Cons" are outside the price range.
As far as China is concerned, my personal opinion is Made in Korea is always better than China. Not because of quality but, because of social and political concerns. But, this isn't the place for that type of discussion.
@@msh6865 …. I have similar political concerns, but, if your a young enthusiast on a budget, it seems a lot of watts for a little money…I avoid Chinese products when I can, but they do manufacture to pretty high standards, and, frankly, it is unavoidable….my Apple products are all manufactured in China. ( soon to move to India, let’s hope quality doesn’t suffer) All aftermarket head units are made in China. At least these amps were designed in the USA, by a designer from RE Audio, who were once affiliated US Amps..it’s little consolation, but, it’s something. I am from a time when all the best amps ,subs, and speakers were American made, but, cheap Chinese labor is hard to resist, and , one by one all the legacy brands moved manufacturing to China. There are few left that are made in the USA ( MMATS,TRU, Arc, Linear Power), but with many imported parts…and they cost dearly, but, I would pay it, I buy German because they best integrate into my German cars. I have a collection of American made amps of most of the legacy brands, some are 40 years old, and often lament the fact that we don’t make anything in America anymore…and many other political issues..but, as you say, this is not the place….actually, this is where I go to avoid political issues…that is the beauty of Big D✌️🇺🇸
@@raymo6795 So many, I mean double digit percentage of things I buy from China break. It's almost like China is intentionally making things that are designed to break within a short time, instead of the same item that was made 20-years ago and still working just fine!
I'd rather pay more for Korea to make the amp than China for sure! The problem is, it's hard for consumers to find data on the China-made products and how long they last before they are garbage...
I just installed the MT2000 on the CT Tropo 12. So far I like it!
I just got my MT2000.1 Today. Pretty hefty little amp. I can't wait to see how it sounds.
I've used stingers cables and such but never their amp. There's so many choices now and at this moment I'm eyeing D4S (Down 4 Sound) amps. However after seeing these tests... im starting to change my mind! What an amp
Loving my CT sounds amps!
Nice. I am still running a pair of RE Audio SR 12 inch subs I got like 14 years ago
A budget amp on deck here. I like this one awesome power output all around.
I saw this on Amazon last night, I watched the review today and I am going to buy one tomorrow.😊
well, i bought one. at half gain it would go into protect. had to turn it to 10 o clock for it to play. driving a Kicker L7R pre loaded 2 ohm sub. did not sound better. So i went back to the original one you recommended. The JBL GTX-500. Back to great bass. Ditched the kicker for one of those new shallow mount boxes from Alpine, the 12". I'm happy i switched.
Hi Big D!!! I've been watching your channel for a while now, just wanted your input on DD Audio products. Would love to see you review an amplifier. Keep up the good work!!!!!!!!
Awesome video man. Keep up the great work. I bought the smaller m700 to push my jl 12w3 and man does it pound. It sounds great too.
Wow, very very impressive, for that stinger amplifier. Never in a million years would I've thought that this little amp would be a little beast.
Like see this amp bumpin your 2 star audio 18’s
Awesome, informative, knowledgeable vid as always TY
Well mine went into protect today after playing around full tilt with the windows down and ac on. Running two alpine r 12’s (swr-1242d) 06 Silverado with 130a alt, $60 Walmart lead acid battery, big 3. Gain set lower than clipping point but ‘cabin gain’ from being in a small single cab truck might’ve sent me into clipping. Amp was cold when it went into protect. Let it rest for a bit while I checked all connections. Everything was good and was playing fine after that. Turned gain down a bit hopefully it doesn’t go back or I’ll have to up the electrical
Have you had any more issues since?
Nope hasn’t yet, I think I did that time because I had ac on full blast and I was full tilt for long periods of time during idling where the alternator wasn’t making as much power. I’d get this amp again.
That’s dope. Too bad I am no longer into car audio. I just love watching your videos and supporting your channel.
Much appreciated!!
Then you're actually still into car audio. Lol
Stinger takin it back to the 90’s with underrated powerhouse amps
Delivering quality content as always.
Very awesome review. Never knew that stinger made amps but now I do thanks to you Big D.
I watched this again and I can't believe Stinger amp is 93% efficient at 4 Ohms! Who else hits 93%. Plus a S/N ratio CEO rated at 90 dB. That's great. Especially at this price
Always love to see amplifiers that do more than they are rated. This is an awesome deal for that kind of power.
you just gotta remember you wont get more than 70% of that in a perfect world
@mcf3778 I guess your talking about impedance rise and actual clamped power, hence the use of the amp dyno. At 1 ohm is at 1ohm no matter if on the dyno or on speakers. The amp makes that much at 1 ohm period.
I don't. I like when the box has a overated rating this way I look way more bad ass and stuff it's mostly dumb.
I am waiting on the D4S mini maxx tests. Once again D4S coming after my paycheck haha
Just a few weeks!
Dayum! That amp had those subs slapping! I still have my top strong gear in box but I may grab this to see who’s king of small amps for under 120.
It's all about identifying your target user and designing you product to meet the requirements of that user. Every amp design is a series of choices by the engineers, who get their marching orders from the marketing department. This amp was designed to give the most bang for the buck, without any fancy frills.
Great video as always Big D. Thanks
Stinger was the only cable I used back in the day. Man Holy shlitz this amp can rock and roll.
Same company owns AudioControl. I got the mt1000.1 and it pairs really nice with my kicker CompQ.
My only concern is that the amp gets kinda hot after a little while. I'm wondering what temperature and when thermal protection activates.
Hint: Get ya an efficient quiet/silent 12V computer fan that matches the width of the amp. You can find good ones online for $5-$15. Get some velcro, make small pieces to fit at the fans base (4 corners), do the same on the the amp that match the fan (smaller the better as long as it holds) and tie fan power into the amps 5v power turn on wire, and there ya go. Drilling a couple holes in the amp cover can also be done (since there are some holes in the bottom cover). Make sure fan is pulling air, not blowing air onto the amp. Especially if you end up mounting the amp in the trunk. If you have fold down rear seats, or access door that allows access to trunk, leave that open whenever possible in the summer so some AC cool air can reach the trunk. Adding another small quiet fan if you only have a small access opening (I think for skis I believe) isn't a bad idea to draw cool cabin air into the trunk. Just make sure to raise the amp up a little bit so it isn't sitting flush on the floor or side panels. Add some cheap speaker feet so air can draw through the bottom. And that should help alot, and make sure the amp performs a long time. Heat/getting too hot is the reason most amps simply fail over time. Especially a budget amp like this one. But with the amps efficiency ratings, you would like to think it should last. Naturally playing the amp at 4 or 2 ohms would be the best, and help reduce heat as well. I don't know why all amps don't incorporate a fan in their design. They cost most companies only a buck or two. (PS you really don't want the Thermal Protection to ever kick in on a budget amp. Most of the time the protection circuit still allows the output transisters to blow. And the amp won't turn back on unless you replace them. Which there should only be one or two for that amp. Most likely 1. You can test them using a multi-meter. And will be close to to where the speaker wires hookup usually. Usually. Sometimes you can get a "Data Sheet" for the amplifier, but that's 50/50 giving you the amps schematics. It isn't necessarily too difficult to replace if ya can de-solder, and solder. Just make sure you buy the "Exact" same brand and type of replacement transister, or you can end up with distortion, or the amp not running at all. Even looking for a date made as close to the original transister that blew. We're talking $5-$10 incl. shipping. Digi-Key is a good company to buy resisters, caps etc. and not get ripped off.). Wow, longer than I expected, but just some amp FYI. (naturally using the largest power wire possible will also help with heat).So go crank it up and annoy your neighbors! lol. If it's too loud you're too old! take care.
You must be pushing your amp to the max. I can run my MT1000.1 with the STINGER Single 12" 700 Watt (RMS) Loaded Subwoofer Enclosure | Ported 1 Ohm Subwoofer Box | Down Firing Box for Max Sound (700 Watts RMS/1200 Watts Max) MC1S12A at about 65% gain, subsonic filter at 30hz, no bass boost because it totally throws off the linearity of the subs frequency curve, and HPF set to 70 hz to 80hz depending on the music I'm playing. I got an SPL of 121db at these modest settings in my 2023 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport GT...Just think I have plenty of headroom left on the amp and still get great SPL...The amp hardly ever gets warm let alone HOT!!!
I've just ordered the 1500-watt amp and a 12in DVC sub with a down-firing enclosure at a cost of $219. The enclosure looks great with a down-firing setup and Stinger stitching. Prime shipping too!!!
I'm curious how it sounds and your thoughts after getting it up and going .
The amplifier was received, 12 " subwoofer should arrive Monday.
@@GorillaCookies I bought the STINGER Single 12" 700 Watt (RMS) Loaded Subwoofer Enclosure | Ported 1 Ohm Subwoofer Box | Down Firing Box for Max Sound (700 Watts RMS/1200 Watts Max) MC1S12A with the Stinger MT1000.1 mono block amp. The box is insanely well constructed and braced. The port is curved at the end so port chuffing is reduced to almost nothing when powered correctly and tuning the amp to their specs. This setup can be thunderous when I want it to be and as musical as a sealed box when your not pushing the SPL to the max. Total setup with wiring kit and line converters I got ruffly $400.00 into it. My brother in law has a JL Audio W7 and my set up is way better musically but ofcourse a $1,400 subwoofer alone (doesn't include price of amp, wiring kit, and line converters he needed to but seperately) will have more SPL and will go lower hz but sounds like SH*T on real music. I don't run my box down firing it's aim to the rear of my SUV. Price to performance I don't think there is another set up than can beat it...The Stinger Amps are powerhouses and rarely ever get warm let alone hot...Buy it before they raise the prices!!!
and survey says...
@bigdfig6083 129.5db at the floor in the Durango. Larger enclosure, so it's definitely not for smaller trunks. I tried it in my 300, but the box is too tall, so I went with the Kicker down fire for the 300. Both are great.
Okay stinger… I see what y'all working with. I may have to give thier products a try sometime this year 👍🏾👍🏾🔊🎶🎵
sold my NVX XAD12 (Awesome amp close to 2k @ 1ohm dynamic) for this..... I didnt like the Single RCA IN connection, I have both L & R coming out of my LC2i might as well use them.. the Stinger has the Dual Input. Pushing 2 10 Alpine type S's in the HALO Boxes in the fully sound deadened Trunk of my 300 SRT! Absolutely BANGS with 0 Distortion.... The Best thing about Car Audio today is you dont have to spend a ton of $ to get a LOUD clean sounding System
Ordered the 2000 immediately before the greedy can raise the price. For once I finally caught one of your videos on time. Thanks Big D
Stinger Audio coming through with the budget banger!
Price is up to $124.99 as of 12:30pm eastern time in PA. That's funny they jump the price up after your video's. lol good job !!!
Supply and demand.people see test then want said product.supplier takes note and sees opportunity to get a few more dollars out of it.capitalism at its finest...
It's $119 on their website
@@Rick-ho2ci well at Amazon were he shows it selling at that price is changed at least. Lol
I have seen the amp for sale... excellent info as always 👌 Big D
I like that you don't need to use the bracket with the bass knob, that is a nice feature. Can mount it in a nice factory looking spot on the dash with no logos or any of that bs. Should go no logo on the bracket too, but meh, at least you can avoid using it if you want it to be a nice clean install
Another great video Big D Williston appreciate your channel brother continued success always
I’ve never had a heat problem with my alpine mono block but we all know that’s quality
I have had alpine amps my whole life…..not impressed anymore..
That's awesome. I'd like to see the 2k tested as well. But I know you buy these so that would be a rough 1. But it would be cool to know if they all perform that well. Thanks for the vid brother.
As always, thank you BigD!
OMG BIG D! I'm going through my father in laws garage and I found a bass 48 car stereo system 4 and 8 ohm six watt from WAY back in the day. The coolest thing though is a model rr45ft original 8 track player for a car NEVER OPENED!!! It's a Ranger by Tenna!! I'm geeking out for sure!
Another great video!
Just bought the MT2000.1. Should get it in a couple of days. Its going to be pushing two Toro Audio Force 12's. The amp im running now is an Arc Audio 1100XD.1.
That efficiency is awesome
Nice budget amplifier. I would love to see RD1500/1 would be a great video a vary popular amplifier. Hope we can see one on the channel one day
Stinger is pretty legit. A higher end shop around here carries their lines and they stand behind them 100%. They even recommended one of the Stinger head units over a “high end” pioneer head unit.
That's because 1 the the stinger head unit is decent. And 2 pioneer stoped making new high end units. Depending what you consider high end . But pioneer going down each year since they sold the brand to a Chinese holding company
@@paulgood2218I sale pioneer so you speaking facts
Pioneer didn’t sell they went bankrupt. The new holdings company that bailed them out has not cut production of the Japanese designed high end. The 4660 the 7600 and 8600 and the w4500 have been out since before the takeover. Just because the new entry level is crap doesn’t mean the high end isn’t good. That being said. The Stinger High10 is a solid unit.
@@AudioGuru09 I don't consider those high end units the prs line is a high end unit. And not talking the 10 year old prs 80. Yes pioneer sold because of bankruptcy or just to cash out does not change they sold to a Chinese company and any new models I have seen in last few years have been garbage. And all the models before the sell out . Was 2018 why would someone buy a 5 year old new radio. I do agree those was decent units. But all signs point to when there gone there gone and the new stuff is bad
@paulgood2218 the PRS is a single din radio. The 99PRS doesnt even have Bluetooth phone call. It doesnt sell. The 80PRS i had failures on the knobs and buttons were crap even though the sound was good. If you're going to replace an oem screen in a new vehicle, you don't want a single din radio these days. Kenwood XR, Sony ES, and Alpine Status and F1 is where you should look. I think Alpine is good at the 507 and up. Most people run a Helix DSP or equivalent if real SQ is what you're after. Or run a DAC the headunit these days is a navigation and hands free source.
Awesome budget amp. Always great videos.
i needed something for someone i know...
thanks again Big D!!!!
I’m still running an old Stinger amp that’s probably 20 years old power 2 twelves and it slams pretty good! I also live in AZ so it has endured several nasty hot summers and still keeps on going! But It’s finally starting to have a problem where it cuts out until I turn it up real loud so maybe I’ll just have to replace it with another stinger!
I bought one. Gain is a little touchy. Other than that seems to be doing fine. I have it running 1ohm on 2 tens. We will see how longevity is. It is my everyday sub amp in my Tacoma
Stinger is awesome! Their head units are also currently the best you can get! I've got a powersports 5 channel SPX1000X5 that I've bench tested, but haven't installed yet... but, wow! I'm impressed by how it sounds on the bench and the quality of the internals! ... And it's so extremely small!
thats crazy stinger is the best you can get.... i know its not the best i can get
When you get in the car and turn on air conditioning it can cool better but while sitting all day in heat it shuts a lot of amps off and even after ac on while it’s already hot it never cools it off especially in hot areas
I like the information about the company and how the company grew to were they are today 🤗
Thanks! for showing the efficiency at 8 ohms.
Budget got a new king, and it’s Stinger, which is usually the standard for voltmeters in the basshead circle, not too damn bad.
I still have some stinger power/ground cables, RCA interconnects, and a couple fuse holders. I may actually buy one of these.
Always impressive when a cheaply made product exceeds expectation. Those filter caps were really nothing to write home about. I'd imagine with a set of quality filter caps (nichicon nippon) it just be more icing on the cake ; )
Thanks for the vid BIG D, epic little piece of gear!
I always used Stinger's RCA's, been a big fan of them. Be interesting to see how the four channels do when they come out!
I bought the 1500.1D just to have the price is crazy from Stinger. I also bought my son their 12" sub in their box 700W RMS for $150 crazy good for the money. Budget Badass!!!!!
Wow, that's a really good little amp. Would work great on a single mid grade sub or 2 lower grade subs. Or gain match maybe strap 2 on a higher grade sub. Awesome price. Another great test vid from ya. Not sure if i missed it or not, but i didn't see a gut shot on this one.
Oh never mind. Vid stopped on a darn advertisement. Now i see. 😎👍👍
You were genuinely amazed at how it rocked the quad.
Yes I didn’t expect what it was delivering. May be hard to tell by the video