How to have a Panic Attack in 3, 2, 1 ... Broken Spark Plug In Cyl Head Almost Made My van a 5cyl !!
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2024
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This happened to me several up here in NH . A LOT on plow trucks . I use an old style square style removal bit that grips tighter as you remove it works every time PATIENCE is key . Glad ya got it out and I’m glad I retired!
Yeah, that's the way to do it. Those extractors were also great for removing the broken coolant fitting on the old vortech engines that would snap off.
Wow I never had that happen but now I see how it can happen and how I can fix it without having a panic attack! Thanx Kenney for yet another informative post. You are easy to listen to and follow your steps in repairing my vehicles! Much respect and appreciation! 👍🏼👏😎🙏
Same thing happened on my 2003 Chrysler Town and Country 3 .8 V-6. The plug rusted in half. Front bank too. I hammered in a good spiral easy out and she came right out. Put anti-seize on the new plugs. Running great at 225k miles and NO payment. Thanks for all your videos.
A cursory spray of aerokroil at the base of the plug before removal sometimes helps prevent this from happening again. The aluminum/steel corrosion bond is all too real. I always hit the threads and taper with copper/nickel anti seize when installing new plugs. I once had the 5.4 Triton 3V in my 2006 F150. I don’t need to explain.
I always use anti-seize and I run the engine for 5 minutes prior to removing spark plugs and never had an issue 👍🏻
Same! Never had problem with mine. The dealer’s plug changes have been the vain of seized plugs ( in my home town) ..
Good morning Mr Kenny hope y'all have a wonderful day. I've never saw that before,60 years old and WOW. Id definitely be flipping out
Good morning! I hope you are doing well. As always, thanks for watching. Keep wrenching, my friend
Glad to see you were able to "fix" it without major surgery. Fortunately, I've ALWAYS put antiseize on the top portion where it meets the head.
That’s why I always use a small amount of anti seize compound .
Kenny, I know that feeling you expressed on your face in the start of the video. Patience and skill save the day. Have used anti-seize for years and never had an issue. Thank you for sharing a challenging moment. All the best to Meg and her therapy and to you for being there for her and us!!😉
About ten years ago helping friend in his driveway, F250 or F350. Got 5 out of V10 and we wacked them and maybe two more out. Broke three off like yours. Another buddy came up with that ez out and got all out. Then someone told us heat engine up first before taking out you’ll have better luck, but we got it done!!
I love these kind of disaster videos, it gives insight not otherwise experienced. Even with no fuel or spark, I gotta think the easy out would have been pushed out if you had driven home.
I tell you what. That easy out was absolutely jambed in there. I would have taken the chance regardless though if the rest of the plug stayed in there .. My heart stopped when I realized it broke.. It felt as if it broke free at first, no indication it snapped
I've always used a liberal amount of anti-seize and never had a problem. No electrical grounding issues, and the plugs come right out. NGK-only for me.
This is why I like designs using a crush washer.
I am an aircraft mech and ez outs and Kroil (areokroil) have saved my ass many times!
Learned from years ago. Best to heat up the plugs on aluminum heads for removal and let cool down for installation with anti-seize added. Never had a problem since.
NGK stainless. Never happen
Aluminum expands more than steel for a given temperature. Another good video Kenny, thanks.
I always put antiseize on plugs and anything i worry will get stuck later .
Never had a problem.
Copper based .
Salt water marine and road salt area mechanic since 1976.
Thanks for the video.
I had this exact scenario happen to me a few months ago on my 4.2L in-line 6.
I quit and had a trusted shop pull it out. Now I know how.
Never suspected the acorn area! Now the Never seize is going on top!
Btw, just pulled #1 out after 1,500 miles (4 months in the rain) and the acorn was already heavily rusted 😢.
It's odd how that happens with the acorn. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
Good morning brother Kenny. Great video. You and Meg are in my prayers and God is blessing you. Thank you for sharing. Maybe replace the Champions with Denso or AC Delco.
Kenny, I'm not going to tell you what to do. Your a professional, you already know what to do....Good save!
Heat from operation makes the hole grow, because the aluminium head expands more than the steel plug does. Thus the hole grew larger, and allowed the bong between the head and plug to release. A good reason not to leave the plugs in till the 100 000 mile exchange interval, but to at least pull them out for a check every 30 000 miles, and yes the anti seize on the threads and the cone works, it keeps the 2 from corroding by excluding air.
Those plugs looked long overdue for replacement ! Rusted and carbon tracked plugs can mess up a day ! And always put a little anti-seize on the taper !
Most of my experience in in marine where we have lots of corrosion or rust problems. I've found that an impact wrench will remove a stuck bolt, etc., better than a breaker bar or other arm strong methods. Often a breaker bar will just twist the head off, but the impact jars it loose. I also use Kearney Rust Cutter that is a penetrating oil with a mild acid. It releases rusted threads in seconds.
Metals become more brittle when really cold. Snapped my Pittsburg 1/2" breaker bar, like it was glass, a week ago. Cut myself on the darn thing too....twice! Super sharp edge!
There's also torque specs on spark plugs.
Love those Mac easy outs, used them for years in the Airlines.
aluminum expands at a faster rate than the steel. almost guarantee those plugs were put into a hot engine. best to break them all loose on a hot engine but let it cool completely before reinstalling them. yeah like thats practicle lol. had a coworker check trans fluid in an aluminum case mack transmission (taper pipe plug) fresh off the road hot. said he used a 10 inch crescent wrench. next time i got it cold. 36 inch pipe wrench and 4 foot bar wouldnt budge it. had to run it 30 miles to get it warm enough to use a 24 inch crescent to break it loose. you actually preload the countershaft bearings .015 to get .003 end play at normal operating temp(140f)
My plugs have one of these 'half of forever' intervals, which scares me, because that gives time for them to seize up. Roughly once a year I pull the plugs out, clean up the threads, and put them back in again, until they're due for replacement. This breaks whatever seize is starting to happen.
Whew! Yes disaster averted. That could have been a big disaster that costs a lot of time and money. Thank God you got it out! 👍
Glad you didn't have to remove the head the lexus uses crush washers thankfully
Kenny,, New Subscriber and I really enjoy the channel. I had a GM 350 in a Nova that had that very same issue and being young and poor, I had the same gut punch when I pulled the porcelain out without the base!! . I resolved it exactly as you did.
As kennethbarlow2787 stated, I too used a square style easy out removal bit and it worked perfectly The engine was using the same Champion Brand Plugs. To this day, I WILL NOT USE and WILL NOT recommend Champion Sparkplugs to anyone . When I see them in the store to this day, I cringe. I lived in the Northeast (rust belt) and lived with rusty plugs on many engines. I've NEVER had this problem with any other brand plug. Champion Sparkplugs SUCK!
After the first one broke, every tapered plug gets a shot of penetrating oil. Yes, anti-seize only on top part of the plug. I put a little anti-seize on everything, which makes things go in easier. Never ever had torque fastener backout...
Just a reminder for everyone and something you should have mentioned for actually recommends anise on their spark plugs on the 4654 motors so you may not like antes, but if you have a 54 or a 46 you really should use it
I always put a bit of engine oil on the washer and threads.
That is a first for me. Seems like those were way past due to be changed.
I’ve had that happen a few times. 👀 oh crap ! Moment.. lol only older vehicles 78 K5 blazer and a 85 Caprice
Like the Ford 5.4 3 valve. I always use a little anti-seize. Just seems to make sense.
Yea i had this happen putting in a new one! Good thing i had a set of these bits came out no problem!
I'm glad you're able to get it done. Keep wrenching 🔧
I've had the same problem several times, twice nothing worked. My Dad showed me a last ditch effort that worked both times.
Take hack saw blade and cut it length wise for for about 3 or four inches so it fits down the into the plug hole . Teeth cutting on the òut stroke to draw out chips wiping as you go . Use grease liberally to help remove chips.
Saw until you can see threads in cut, checking frequently.
Finally tap on side of shell to slightly collapse it towards the cut.
Then use pliers, fingers, easy out to extract. Go easy on easy out
Put oil into cylinder before you start to help blow out chips.
Not the cleanest method but like I said , last ditch effort.
BTW the sealing shoulder or washer will still seal if your cut is not too deep .
never seen that one coming .
Before you pull a rusted plug... the rust bond can be dissolved with a light application of metal prep (Phosphoric Acid). It can discolor and etch iron and aluminum, so be careful. Iron out is also good for a scrub and dissolve of rust. Follow with favorite PB, KHL ir WD soaking.
ACORN!? THAT'S NUTS!
😂
Man this would have been terrible i wouldn't have known what to do, i'm so glad i don't live near saltwater anymore
I'm glad you were able to get it fixed
Very good tip .thanks
I've dealt with that several times. A spiral extractor works great for getting the broken threaded part out.
It came out with the hex. The thread portion is still in there? So, need to call some extractors to take it out& re thread it. Expensive job
Thanks from Australia
Just started to watch your videos a few weeks ago,interesting,well done ,simple love them keep up the good work
In my experience it is the front plugs that get weather checked and will have a tendency to not come out easy on these engines. The key is to do the tune-up on time and if you think about it shoot a little penetrant on them from time to time.
I have had back plugs come out finger tight only sometimes and the much less weather checking.
I've learned not to start a project on the vehicle in need to drive cause the project always goes sideways!
I’ve changed many plugs when everything was way too hot to be comfortable at all. Wearing leather gloves. Never had one do this. That’s scary. I prefer the crush ring style. But then I don’t let things get all rusty etc on my engines.
That is similar to the spark plug problem found in the Ford 4.6 & 5.3 V8 engines. And primarily why I stay away from them.
On the 3V motors, yes. But the 2V motors are great I've never had an issue with them.
Not that interested in a follow up to this one but definitely waiting for the follow up to the disappearing coolant on the Ford video.
Always use never seize on dissimilar metals. Always on spark plugs, lug nuts and steel hubs mounting mag/aluminum wheels.
I speak from experience.
Boy did you get lucky!
I think the thin wall of the plug is the main reason the plugs break like that.
Not necessarily the taper being seized.
Wiggle jiggle my friend
I saw that happen with a dodge truck once, I think it was a dodge, it had a v10 in it and that was in the worst possible one to get at. It's a v9 now, it's just not possible to get at. It's been sold, maybe it's fixed by now but that was a few years ago. How frustrating.
I had a '91 Corsica that blew the spark plug clean out of the head and there were no threads left in it. i don't know how he did it but my buddy got in there on the head against the firewall and put an insert in it and put the plug back in.
Wow!
Golly gee fellas, would you take a look at that.
Never seen that before..
Nice save! I have never seen a spark pug stuck in such a way. That seemed like a tremendous amount of rust on the plug's thread. Was there a water proof boot of some sort missing on the plug wire? I looks like this plug was sitting in water for a very long time. I hope this wasn't a flood recovered vehicle...Ouch.
Another thing
Pain in the keaster, time consuming, meticulous.
It draws on colorful language too . But it works !!!
HA ! i've had them break when new !
Not a mechanic but I have always used anti-seize.
That could have been super ugly. We don't have rust issues here in Az but, knowing what you did will definitely go in the memory banks.
can you put a little anti seize on the threads and taper first
Happening alot with all the cheap spark plugs being sold on Amazon
Those plugs look like they've been in there since manufacture, though I know they're not. Guessing the sea air does that to them?
Kenny, have you saw P219A Air Fuel Ratio imbalance on 2008-2013 GM trucks / SUV?
I am asking now, what if you try to remove the sparkplug on a cold engine? Would it be easier, because steel expands less than aluminum when heated?
Ive been wrenching on cars for 30 years and never had that happen knock on wood
Not a mechanic here! What do you think caused the rust? Thank. you!
Was it put in hot?
If put in when warm then after it is cool it may be contracted in length making it tighter against the taper.
I guess I should follow my own thinking as a month later I broke a flat seal plug off. I did them with the motor almost totally cold and they were very hard to crack loose.
One was so hard I broke it off.
If I use an easy out it will still have the same amount of tightness so I guess I need to try running it and getting it hot then ' shocking ' it.
If that doesn't work I'm going to try putting silicone in the hollow end to catch debris and drill the head part off which should reduce or remove the pressure and tightness.
Yikes!
The problem is you waited too long to change them ,so rusty
A oh s@#$ moment.
I'll put some of the blame on the fact that they are Champions.
Don't mean to be picky...I call that part the "chamfer".
Your own van has spark plugs that old n rusty still in it? looks like out of a 1940 vehicle. Damn Rust City on that engine.
Man that is the crustiest, rustiest spark plug I've ever seen. Looks like that van had been parked in the bottom of a pond for a year
Ya i think its time to replace spark plugs, (about 75,000 miles ago)
Must be a Midwest thing, cars where I live , (Idaho), don't get that rusty
Glad it worked out for you
They always say the mechanics own car has the worst maintenance on it, ha ha
Probably because they're too busy fixing other people's cars
Have a good one
Oh I've had that panic attack before! Great job Kenny!
First
Love your videos Kenny, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I'm just a DIY'er and I've never seen easy outs like that. I guess since it's so big in circumference it requires a big head.