That cup of tea before the job gets on top of you makes the difference between smashing the whole piece, and continuing with the fine, slow and relentless spirit. thanks
The main reason why I did this is because a few people commented on a previous video where I drilled out some broken bolts, normally with comments like "that's easy- try drilling out a broken tap", so I did. Now I'm waiting for the "it's easy on a bench- try doing that when you are in space - wearing a space suit" type of comments 😉 Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman this is easy. Just wait til you have to do it hanging upside down from the monkey bars while fighting off a pack of angry wolves and on fire. Ya! That'll make a man outta you!
I have to do this on an exhaust stud that broke in my mr2 and broke an extractor trying to remove the broken stud lol deff worth the watch I have to go pick up some of those diamond bits
YES! This worked for me. In the past I’ve used diamond hole saws on enameled cast iron, so I’m not sure why I didn’t try it immediately. Instead I tried the Dremel route, as recommended on many videos and discussion boards. The thing is, Dremel grinding stones wear away pretty quickly, and they aren’t all that cheap either. A 2-pack of conical burrs is $15 CAD, and I quickly went through about 4 of them grinding down maybe 1/3 of the broken EZ out. The diamond hole saw was $25, but it ate through the remainder in under 5 minutes! That’s with me being patient and frequently dipping in water as he does here. After that it was simple enough to drill out the sides of the hole, re-tap, and Bob’s your uncle. It’s also worth pointing out that multiple mechanics and machinists I spoke to didn’t offer any solutions to the problem. Kudos, man, thanks for the tip!
The sound of crying when you broke the tap was me. Very, very impressed as I have always considered a broken tap deep within a stud hole as being an unrecoverable situation. A HUGE thumbs up.
Thanks Tony, once a tap is bottomed in a hole and snapped off, it is never going to be easy to sort it out. I'm delighted that you found the video useful 😉 Thanks for the comment
This video took a massive amount of time to film and edit, which is why there was no upload last Sunday (I’m also busy working and busy doing other things). Please like, comment and share the video (if you can), as it really helps me out. I hope everyone has a great Sunday 😉
I have a cast iron manifold on my old MGA with 3 rusted in bolts that I want to renew. I have tried heat and penetrating oil and a pair of nuts locked together but have not moved them at all - advice would be appreciated. You have provided some interesting ideas, I am impressed, thank you. Tony Clarke.
Studs that are rusted in can be a real pain. You have to be really careful with manifold bolts as they easily shear. I'd keep applying the penetrant, but also shock the studs by hitting the end of them with a punch and hammer. The shock can sometimes work wonders. If that does not loosen them, you could try putting two nuts on the stud, tighten them together and then try tightening the studs slightly, before trying to undo them. Best of luck with it ;-)
I used this method as a last ditch effort and it worked!!! Broken bolt on a boat motor wouldn’t break loose after welding a nut on, heat, broke an extractor off in it, but this got it out. Took 45 minutes or so using his exact method! THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS!!!
As always, great video 👏👍 In particular, your advice to “take a break” and “not to let it wind you up” is superb advice for someone who is learning about any jobs really. Finally, I’d never even thought to use a “diamond tile hole saw” to drill out metal. I know I know, some will say it’s “obvious” - but it wasn’t to me. So thanks 🙏
@@ultimatehandyman The “diamond tile hole saw” was new to me as well. Probably expensive, but a nice option if you can afford it (i have no idea what it costs, but its probably expensive). Anyways its on the list for x-mas presssies my loving family can bestove me with, but they will probably just give me a gift wrapped pair of second hand socks as usual. :)
Kudos to your video and thank you for posting! I broke a bolt extractor, and your removal method was the only one that had worked. To make matters worse, the area was hard to access, so I had to get a right angle drill attachment and a quick release diamond hole saw. Turned out to be a two day job, but in the end I succeeded. Thank you!
Bolts always break in difficult to reach areas when I'm on site, they can be a real pain in the backside. I do get a lot of comments saying "it's easy when it's on a bench", I don't think some people realise that it's 100 times easier to film when it's on a bench! I'm really glad that you managed to get the broken extractor out- well done ;-) Thanks for the comment 👍
Oh man im having a bad time right now. I snapped a bolt on an exhaust manifold and then snapped off an extractor in the bolt. So I am in a simmilar situation. Worse thing is that I can't take the manifold off, without a garage taking the body off the vehicle.. so it's got to be done in situ. I have some solid carbide bits coming, and some diamond hole cutters coming as well. I am worried that I might snap a carbide bit off in the hole and then things will be even worse... so I will probably take the extra time to do it this way. It's good to know im not the only one, and if i take the time I will eventually get it out again. Cheers.
Persistence and patience and a'lil experienced know-how are INVALUABLE skills that help you out of the inevitable holes we all find ourselves in from time to time when life decides to kick you in the Jimmy's 😳💥🦵excellent 👌 content bro this is definitely one that goes into the life toolbox 🧰 keep'em coming 😎👍💰
This video helped me out no end. I snapped a stud extractor in my Porsche Boxster exhaust manifold a ruined countless drill bits and cobalt bits trying to get it out. 40 minutes with the diamond bit and it was dust! Keep up the good work!
Thanks for demonstrating a procedure which most of us try to avoid but sometimes you have to do it. As you showed, it's very time consuming and patience, care and persistence is essential. Thanks
I want to thank you personally for this thorough demonstration. I had a broken easy out in a broken bolt on a pickup hub. I was struggling to figure out how to solve this and your method worked perfectly! What a blessing. I am thankful for your generosity in sharing your knowledge. Praise God. No space suit, but it wasn't exactly easy still on the vehicle. Your method works! Thanks again!
What a great video...being a much more experienced millwright at a food plant in Canada, I am constantly being asked to remove broken bolts/taps/extractors from stainless equipment! The younger ones just don't have the patience or experience in removing their mistakes. Once worked with an expert in a steel mill who was able to remove any broken object in a threaded hole. Cheers and thanks for sharing. Rick from Hamilton, Ontario:)
Some stainless is a nightmare to tap. I go for less than 50% thread. Sometimes a lot less. Even the shadow of a thread can hold in stainless. I look in the hole and can barely see any thread. A fastener will still grip tight though.
Thank you so much for uploading this video. I broke an ez out off in a transmission pan bolt and was able to remove it using your method. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated
Great video yet again....As a compulsive fixaholic I love to see stuff coming back from the grave.....I've spent a tenner to fix stuff worth a fiver just because I can! Keep up the good work!
Fixing things is always worthwhile, even if it's just for the practice of doing it. When I was a kid I remember replacing the element in an electric kettle for a elderly friend of the family. I bet you can't even buy a kettle element these days as electric kettles are so cheap! Thanks for the comment
Holy shit it worked. After I tried using a screw extractor, my drill bit broke inside the screw. I bought a couple of diamond hole saw bits from Lowe's and had it done within an hour. Retapping was so simple. Thank you for this video. Saved me from a major headache
I started out with the diamond hole saw bit method you demonstated here but became discouraged with the slow going. I picked up a Milwaukee carbide multimaterial bit (4 or 5 inches long and looks like a masonry bit) at a home improvement store for about $8.00 US. With this, the broken extractor was completely drilled out within 10 minutes. I still needed to tap new threads as you demonstrate in the video. Thank you.
Thought I would update on here as a way of saying thanks! This method totally worked for me. My situation was slightly different, because I had to do it in situ. Also the bolt I snapped off was smaller diameter (M6) and therefore the extractor was smaller too. I ended up going on ebay and purchased a pack of x10 4mm diamond hole saws, and because they are so small I ended up getting through all ten of them before getting through the extractor. But the pack of 10 was only about £10, so well worth it. I could then drill the rest of the bolt out and re-tap the hole. Great advice on taking your time with this job, it pays off!
You offer good solid advice! I’m a machinist in New York, I work often with aluminum 3/4 inch thick plate, usually sizes range from 19.00 x20.00 to as large as 36.00x30.00, either 6061, or jig plate. Saving a plate this size is a priority. We machine these plates on a VF6 Haas machining center. Occasionally, taps break. Since these are always in house items, I have a lot of leeway on how I extract the broken tap. My preferred method is to use a fractional size carbide end mill. Say for a 1/4-20 tap, I’ll use a 1/4 inch endmill. Usually 900-1100 spindle speed, sometimes flood coolant, other times I’ll use Moly-D cutting oil from a can. I crank down the spindle in the manual mode in tenths (.0001) with some luck, one endmill will survive doing the job, other times I’ll go through 2-3. Once the hole is cleared, I’ll re drill and tap for a 1/4-20 Heli-Coil insert.
Pretty much the same method I use as well. Although, you could use a 5mm carbide endmill, and not have to use a heli-coil. A 3/16ths might do it as well?
If your working with aluminum you can always dissolve the tap by soaking piece of aluminum for a few hrs or overnight in a heated solution of Battery Acid and Alum (potassium aluminum sulfate). method works great for aluminum but does take awhile. won't harm the aluminum in anyway whatsoever but it may discolor the aluminum but the discoloration rubs right out with a good aluminum polish or can just hit it with a piece of fine sandpaper. done this method many times breaking off small taps like 1.5mm and 2mm I use for aluminum parts for R/C vehicle parts and it works awesome. works well enough that I actually have a glass jar filled with the solution in garage just for those rainy days that ill need it. lol
Just snapped a 8mm 316 stainless bolt off, drilled it out to 6mm, stuck the easy out in and it snapped off flush. I watched 4 videos on removal options, purchased, drill bits, dremmel bits and spade type tile drills. They all broke. The only thing that worked was your tile drill bit. It seemed like it wasn't working after the initial sharpness wore off, so instead of going slow i just hammered it for 10 seconds at time, refreshing cutting fluid and it worked. Over all, 6 hrs of trying and failing, 30 mins of your method and success!! Thank you, one can stop swearing now.
Very good. If you break a tap its a disaster, usually. I am happy to learn that there are still options that does not require a repair shop. I liked the emphasis on self control. When i was a teen tinkering with stuff my dad always tried to teach me to take a 15-30 minute break when i felt a rage and need to smash things up with a hammer. It cost me a fortune in broken stuff before i finally learned the wisdom of those words. :) 5 out of 5 for this video!
I've been told that I have a lot of patience, but I do swear a lot when doing jobs like this- especially when I was on site! A guy that I worked with on site had even more patience than me (Vinny Davies), he had the patience of a saint for sure! Thanks for all of your comments 👍
Dear god you are a genius. I used a 3/16” diamond core to drill a screw extractor out of an M6 bolt that snapped off on my truck and it worked flawlessly
I used a "rescue bit" to drill out a broke ez out on 6-71 blower cover. Was replacing the allen head plug with a vent button. Those rescue bits are worth every penny.
I love you!!!!! This video saved the motor in my truck. I would have never thought about using a diamond coated hole saw... worked great!! Thank you so much (new subscriber here!!)
Thanks Chez Again those bits are really impressive! It's certainly a way out if you're stuck like that. But that "click" when the tap broke. Still makes my blood run cold! I can still hear the bloke who taught me fitting!
One thing that has made removing broken bolts/screws easier for me is the use Left-Hand drills when drilling out the center of the broken bolt because sometimes they will snag and turn the screw out for you saving time and effort. This would be after getting the center drilled if you were to use the drill guide that he made/uses. Great video and I will be looking for these JCB drills. Thanks so much!!!!!
I felt like I was watching a suspense movie. That was amazing that you just rolled with the flow and ended up victorious. What a great set of methods you resorted to with each problem and the patience. And I will say also, like the others, walking away from really stressful, critical problems really saves the day oftentimes. Take that break. Jesus bless.
It’s a really good tip that taking a break helps get the job done. I bet you could have Jerry rigged some cooling once you had removed the guide bolt. My background is electronics and I am planning to build a spark erosion tool one day.
Absolutely, I've seen people get wound up over a piece of metal in the past and it does you no favours! The spark erosion machine sounds ace, I'd love to see that when you have made it. Thanks for the comment ;-)
First off excellent job of showing how to get broken bolts out. I owned a radiator shop and we had to fight broken bolts in aluminum radiator tanks. Steel bolts in aluminum radiator tanks would seize in. The bit you used and the bolts you made are great. I would have bought them. I have a few other ideas. 1. If you had the hole pointing up you could have filled it with water or WD40 so you did not have to dip so often. 2. Snap-On makes a kit with reverse rotation drill bits. It comes with guides that center the hole. They are not as nice as the bolts you made. They are not threaded. But the screw extractor that comes with them is custom made for the drill bit size and works better than the tapered screw extractor. 3. I have heated up the broken off tap/bolt and let it cool slowly to soften it up. Then drilled it out. The cobalt bits are good but they are also prone to break off. 4. I have welded a nut on to the broken bolt with TIG welding and heated and backed it out. 5. I really like HeliCoils, they work great. 6. I have drilled out a bolt and moved up to the next size at times. Final note: You could sell the bolts you made. I am old and retired, but surely would have bought or tried any new items to make a task like this easier. Keep up the good work!
What you ran into is called the galvanic effect of dissimilar metals. Something to do with the covalent bonds of the atoms being different between the two metals. In effect they make a weak battery. Along with making a battery they corrode like a battery can too. Aluminum oxide is what sandpaper is made out of. So it's some pretty hard and abrasive stuff. Oxides being brittle can be used to advantage. Sometimes you just have to shock the monkey. Impact beats torque.
Yes this was very educational. I'm partway through a job. Don't know about my next step. Very hardened large steel bolt. Using carbide bits. May resort to a diamond hole saw but many videos say they don't work good? I've used them in the past and they really helped with broken taps, and extractors. Keep up the great videos!
Really enjoyed this video thanks for sharing it. I run into this stuff all the time I use a good cement bit to get the broken taps and exactors out also I really liked your bolt guide idea. Much RESPECT!!!!!! ✌🏻from Ga.
I've worked with a few very good fitters in my time, old school, hands on but you're on a different level. I don't know who your employer is or how much they pay you but it isn't enough. I think the important thing to learn from this video is "don't break the tap/screw extractor"
Thanks, I've worked with some brilliant fitters over the last few years and I've learnt a lot from them, I still work with one of them now (he was 65 on Friday). Thanks for the comment ;-)
I really like that idea to have a hole in the center of a bolt to guide your drill bit in nice and straight and not ruin any threads when drilling in the broken bolt !!!! Ingenious !!!!
Mr ultimate probably the very best thing you can add to you toolkit after the centering bolt is a set of left had threaded drills. I can sharpen my own drills by hand because I have done it so long. If you do sharpen your own make the bite very aggressive. It is many times faster than your method but it is very nice to have your method to fall back to.
I've been doing this for years in my machine shop, it's painfully slow but it works without sacrificing an expensive carbide end mill.. it's especially useful on tiny taps
Wow. The fact that you purposely broke off a tap to help other people who never in a million years want to break off any bolts or extractors. You're a real one thank you. Currently stepping away to take a break from a broken extractor in a cylinder head bolt.
This does work! I used a Milwaukee diamond hole saw bit to drill out a easy out that was broken off in an exhaust stud in the engine head. I took my time and used water to help lubricate it over and over. Eventually it came out and I was able to tap it and save the head.
I love how the tap refused to play ball & break... & when it did, it broke in a place I have never seen a tap break in my 30 years experience as a machinist / repair guy... 🙄😂 If you could rig it so you were drilling vertically & had a continuous flow of cooling water, you would have speeded the job up... but thats not always possible. Thank you for going through the whole effort to show the process involved... Regarding tapping the hole or using an extractor... in situations like this particularly, I use a NEW tap, preferably a Presto spiral-point machine tap and use a good quality cutting oil like Rocol or similar, backing out, cleaning the swarf out & going in again ... patience is the name of the game. I think its even more critical to use top quality extractors as they are almost glass-hard & very brittle. Presto brand was my favourite...and yet I have managed to snap even those... 😖 Carbide tipped masonry bits can be used in a pinch but need grinding to put a positive cutting rake angle on the tip... There is a great sense of achievement & satisfaction in successfully doing a job like this, particularly if the part is expensive to replace or maybe even irreplaceable.... You've got a sub & a like from me based on this vid alone... good job mate 😉 From the Emerald Isle 😎👍☘🍺 www.rocol.com/products/rtd-chlorine-free-liquid www.presto-tools.co.uk/ProductGrp/metric-coarse-spiral-point-taps-iso-529 www.presto-tools.co.uk/Products/screw-extractor-sets/096001-6
the drill guide is brilliant. if not commercially available, you should market them. fascinating vids for an old wrenchbreaker to see from across the puddle.
working on a engine .two blots snap/ drilled out one stud.used a extractor .next one snap r. 5/32 BSF used a mig .no way. used a harden pointed chisel. chipping a way at the die .2 hours later got it out. talk about a brake. your right. just my luck . fitting a oil pump in the casing. did not use a nuff heat split the casing. i wish i seen your video before hand. thank from john
Thanks for the tip with diamond drill bit Didn't know that these exist. I bought a 6mm and will try to drill out the broken drill bit from my car flywheel. There is a hole to block the crankshaft from rotating and the drill broke off when i forgot to remove it and i turned the starter. Now im changing the clutch and i want to remove the stuck piece in it. It's amazing actually that some stone called diamond is harder than any hardest metal and it eats it like butter
Thanks for another good video. I broke a screw extractor once. I initially thought "oh no" but due to the tapered profile of the screw extractor(SE) there is not a lot of contact between the SE and the bolt. I manged to knock it clockwise to release its grip and just took it out. A broken tap is a different matter. I would recommend before drilling the tap or SE to try something - anything you can think of to rewind it out of the hole, when all else fails then move on to the good advice in this video.
I ran out of patience just watching the drilling process. So I paused the video; got myself a "cup o' tea", and resumed the video. Thanks for the education.
I've read about a device called a tap extractor, which has three arms that go down the flutes of the tap. I saw one guy on youtube carefully back out a broken tap with that. Any thoughts?
I have seen those, but I can't see them working in most cases. If a tap breaks because it has bottomed out in a hole, I really can't see one of those extractors working to be honest. Thanks for the comment 👍
Really good tutorial and sound advice ...... I screwed my shoulder and arm up by not taking a break and getting stressed out drilling through glass ....... stress is a killer
I have found you can sometimes shatter the remains of the tap by punching with another hard steel punch. Alternatively on small individual parts heat the whole lot up to take the tap steel to a softened state when cool and use a standard drill to take it out.
I previously viewed your video that went into more detail regarding using guide bolts... it's a great concept! Does any of you RUclipsrs know if someone is selling guide bolt sets??? I'm really not set up to make precisely centered holes in the center of "allen head" cap screws, and most in my experience tend to be a bit harder than the typical bolts laying about in my shop or those at the big box stores. Thanks for your efforts to produce your vids... gives us a LOT of useful advice!
Brilliant option. Two thinks i was pondering. If it was possible to fixture it to use a drill press, the hole could be filled with water.... Less trips to the dunk tank and more time drilling. For the final drilling, i noticed the bit grab and jerk the drill. I wonder what could happen using a left hand drill. Not being critical, just pondering out loud. Thanks for this "bit" of knowlege. 👍
Just found your video. Watched it from beginning to end. Thanks for tips. I have to deal with something like this on a 5speed transmission turret. Cross my fingers I can get the busted bolt the previous owner decided to leave in there for me to find. SMH. Cheers.
The removing a broken tap was very interesting. Very good tutorial. i hav'n't seen those diamond core drills but that is something I'm going to definitely look for online. For repair shops, it might be good to divide the number of times you can use a core drill by its cost, when working out a customer charge. Great work! I'm subscribed and following!!
Oh man I'm having a bad time right now. I snapped a bolt off on an exhaust manifold and then snapped off an extractor in the bolt. So I am in a similar situation. Worse thing is that I can't take the manifold off, without a garage taking the body off the vehicle.. so it's got to be done in situ. I have some solid carbide bits coming, and some diamond hole cutters coming as well. I am worried that I might snap a carbide bit off in the hole and then things will be even worse... so I will probably take the extra time to do it this way. Thanks for uploading. 🙂
Left hand drill bits? you could also run the diamond bit backwards to help extract, and if you use a left hand bit on the bolt it will often back itself out. But, a well made video, with lots of good advice.
Love the alternate but understandable English "Buttered up" rather than buggered up. Amazing hints. Ive run into this and just over sized the hole but this is better
Being from the other side of the pond, we use different words. Like you use spinner and we use wrench. I'm just picking up nuances of true English rather than are buggered up English/German/melting pot language. No I was not using the subtitle. I'm pretty sure you said buttered up. Not a flaw just a haha
@@coulssp I said "seriously battered" at one point- ruclips.net/video/7JCfEMrCjhc/видео.html The ARTU drill bits are badly damaged at the ends, which is why I said that. Thanks for the comments
Brave and selfless man subjecting yourself to this just to show us all what to do! Would another option be to carefully build the height of it up with a welder and then weld a nut to it?
You might try running your diamond drill counterclockwise as you drill. I have used left hand spiral carbide drills to drill the pilot hole in bolts to accept an easy out. Many times the bolt will come out while drilling the pilot due the constant unscrewing forces while drilling.
People often break taps/screw extractors/drill bits, which are all made from a similar tough steel, which cannot be drilled out using regular drill bits. This video shows that it is possible to drill out hard steels, without using a solid carbide bit 👍
Well, I was stuck on how to remove a bolt shaft that was stuck inside an expensive part on my 2cyl westerbeke diesel. I had broken off a drill bit in one end and a screw extractor in the other end. The bolt might still be stuck, but not for long, now! Thanks!
Ultimate Handyman I now have a running diesel. It cost me $18 for the bit, which is still almost new. Very happy. Your extraordianry effort at creating such a time-consuming and expensive how-to is ver much appreciated here. Thank you again.
How about turning the casting on it's side and dribbling water into the work to keep the bits cool and somewhat lubricated in order to make the task faster and easier ?
Excellent video, thanks. Brilliant tips. I like the way you use the WD40 (or similar) to clean the hole and the tap. It's all these details that make your videos so useful.
Good information and I did not know about those little diamond tip hole saws I will be getting a set of those for sure! Any time you have unlike metals together like this I am not shy using anti_seize compound on the threaded bolt going into the aluminum its a practice that can save you a whole lot of time later on! Thanks for sharing its very good information!
Great job. I broke a tap in an exhaust manifold years ago, and an engineer workshop charged a Kings ransom to remove it! Have you ever tried drilling in a lower speed setting?
What can you use to center the bit if you don’t have threads to run your guide down? Wanted to make your bolt center guide but I’m trying to drill the center of a crankshaft bolt and have no threads near snout.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
God bless you, your wife, ex wife, children, siblings, mom, dad, grandparents, dog, cat, pets, house, garage!!!! So needed this video right now!!
Thanks for the comment 👍
😂
That cup of tea before the job gets on top of you makes the difference between smashing the whole piece, and continuing with the fine, slow and relentless spirit. thanks
Absolutely!
Thanks for the comment
Going threw the same situation at work right now don't really got all the tools I need 1 or 2 in I had to just walk away
I can't believe you did this as a demonstration! You must love spending time in the garage. This situation is one of the worst
The main reason why I did this is because a few people commented on a previous video where I drilled out some broken bolts, normally with comments like "that's easy- try drilling out a broken tap", so I did. Now I'm waiting for the "it's easy on a bench- try doing that when you are in space - wearing a space suit" type of comments 😉
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman this is easy. Just wait til you have to do it hanging upside down from the monkey bars while fighting off a pack of angry wolves and on fire. Ya! That'll make a man outta you!
I have to do this on an exhaust stud that broke in my mr2 and broke an extractor trying to remove the broken stud lol deff worth the watch I have to go pick up some of those diamond bits
@@ThePjstokes hey I have the same thing in my Suzuki m50 bike exhaust bolt right now! any tips?
@@druegeme make sure to stop for a tea every now and then
YES! This worked for me. In the past I’ve used diamond hole saws on enameled cast iron, so I’m not sure why I didn’t try it immediately. Instead I tried the Dremel route, as recommended on many videos and discussion boards. The thing is, Dremel grinding stones wear away pretty quickly, and they aren’t all that cheap either. A 2-pack of conical burrs is $15 CAD, and I quickly went through about 4 of them grinding down maybe 1/3 of the broken EZ out. The diamond hole saw was $25, but it ate through the remainder in under 5 minutes! That’s with me being patient and frequently dipping in water as he does here. After that it was simple enough to drill out the sides of the hole, re-tap, and Bob’s your uncle. It’s also worth pointing out that multiple mechanics and machinists I spoke to didn’t offer any solutions to the problem. Kudos, man, thanks for the tip!
The sound of crying when you broke the tap was me. Very, very impressed as I have always considered a broken tap deep within a stud hole as being an unrecoverable situation. A HUGE thumbs up.
Thanks Tony, once a tap is bottomed in a hole and snapped off, it is never going to be easy to sort it out.
I'm delighted that you found the video useful 😉
Thanks for the comment
This video took a massive amount of time to film and edit, which is why there was no upload last Sunday (I’m also busy working and busy doing other things). Please like, comment and share the video (if you can), as it really helps me out.
I hope everyone has a great Sunday 😉
Thumbed up. I got a good sense of the effort expended in the work, let alone the post video work :)
I have a cast iron manifold on my old MGA with 3 rusted in bolts that I want to renew. I have tried heat and penetrating oil and a pair of nuts locked together but have not moved them at all - advice would be appreciated. You have provided some interesting ideas, I am impressed, thank you. Tony Clarke.
Studs that are rusted in can be a real pain. You have to be really careful with manifold bolts as they easily shear. I'd keep applying the penetrant, but also shock the studs by hitting the end of them with a punch and hammer. The shock can sometimes work wonders.
If that does not loosen them, you could try putting two nuts on the stud, tighten them together and then try tightening the studs slightly, before trying to undo them.
Best of luck with it ;-)
Good job altogether. These tasks are very challenging. Some great tips I never thought thought of before. Thank you,again.
link to the guide?
I used this method as a last ditch effort and it worked!!! Broken bolt on a boat motor wouldn’t break loose after welding a nut on, heat, broke an extractor off in it, but this got it out. Took 45 minutes or so using his exact method! THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS!!!
Nice work!
Thanks for the comment 👍
As always, great video 👏👍
In particular, your advice to “take a break” and “not to let it wind you up” is superb advice for someone who is learning about any jobs really.
Finally, I’d never even thought to use a “diamond tile hole saw” to drill out metal. I know I know, some will say it’s “obvious” - but it wasn’t to me. So thanks 🙏
You are welcome ;-)
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman The “diamond tile hole saw” was new to me as well. Probably expensive, but a nice option if you can afford it (i have no idea what it costs, but its probably expensive). Anyways its on the list for x-mas presssies my loving family can bestove me with, but they will probably just give me a gift wrapped pair of second hand socks as usual. :)
@@clauspetersen840 Actually fairly cheap. That man has patience.
Kudos to your video and thank you for posting! I broke a bolt extractor, and your removal method was the only one that had worked. To make matters worse, the area was hard to access, so I had to get a right angle drill attachment and a quick release diamond hole saw. Turned out to be a two day job, but in the end I succeeded. Thank you!
Bolts always break in difficult to reach areas when I'm on site, they can be a real pain in the backside. I do get a lot of comments saying "it's easy when it's on a bench", I don't think some people realise that it's 100 times easier to film when it's on a bench!
I'm really glad that you managed to get the broken extractor out- well done ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Oh man im having a bad time right now. I snapped a bolt on an exhaust manifold and then snapped off an extractor in the bolt. So I am in a simmilar situation. Worse thing is that I can't take the manifold off, without a garage taking the body off the vehicle.. so it's got to be done in situ. I have some solid carbide bits coming, and some diamond hole cutters coming as well. I am worried that I might snap a carbide bit off in the hole and then things will be even worse... so I will probably take the extra time to do it this way. It's good to know im not the only one, and if i take the time I will eventually get it out again. Cheers.
Persistence and patience and a'lil experienced know-how are INVALUABLE skills that help you out of the inevitable holes we all find ourselves in from time to time when life decides to kick you in the Jimmy's
😳💥🦵excellent 👌 content bro this is definitely one that goes into the life toolbox 🧰 keep'em coming 😎👍💰
There are many ways to remove broken bolts and taps and I've used many of them. THANK YOU for teaching me another way!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
This video helped me out no end. I snapped a stud extractor in my Porsche Boxster exhaust manifold a ruined countless drill bits and cobalt bits trying to get it out. 40 minutes with the diamond bit and it was dust! Keep up the good work!
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for demonstrating a procedure which most of us try to avoid but sometimes you have to do it. As you showed, it's very time consuming and patience, care and persistence is essential.
Thanks
I want to thank you personally for this thorough demonstration. I had a broken easy out in a broken bolt on a pickup hub. I was struggling to figure out how to solve this and your method worked perfectly! What a blessing. I am thankful for your generosity in sharing your knowledge. Praise God.
No space suit, but it wasn't exactly easy still on the vehicle. Your method works! Thanks again!
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
They are not "easy" in my experience...
What a great video...being a much more experienced millwright at a food plant in Canada, I am constantly being asked to remove broken bolts/taps/extractors from stainless equipment! The younger ones just don't have the patience or experience in removing their mistakes. Once worked with an expert in a steel mill who was able to remove any broken object in a threaded hole. Cheers and thanks for sharing.
Rick from Hamilton, Ontario:)
Thanks Rick, we have a lot of stainless equipment at the place where I work and it definitely requires patience ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Some stainless is a nightmare to tap. I go for less than 50% thread. Sometimes a lot less. Even the shadow of a thread can hold in stainless. I look in the hole and can barely see any thread. A fastener will still grip tight though.
Thank you for your work, Rick!
I recall years ago being told the only way of doing this was via 'spark erosion' at a huge cost. This is a revelation. Thanks
Yes, I know a lot of people that believe that 😉
Thanks for the comment 👍
This video saved me thousands of dollars… you’re a hero for making this, genius to use diamond hole saw
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you so much for uploading this video. I broke an ez out off in a transmission pan bolt and was able to remove it using your method. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video yet again....As a compulsive fixaholic I love to see stuff coming back from the grave.....I've spent a tenner to fix stuff worth a fiver just because I can! Keep up the good work!
Fixing things is always worthwhile, even if it's just for the practice of doing it. When I was a kid I remember replacing the element in an electric kettle for a elderly friend of the family. I bet you can't even buy a kettle element these days as electric kettles are so cheap!
Thanks for the comment
Would you drill out a brake caliper bleeder screw or buy a new caliper?
This has to be an Ultimate Handyman platinum edition video. Pure gold at any rate!
Thanks for the comment 👍
From here in the States we say thanks for an excellent video and we definitely owe you a brew!
Ironically I'm drinking a brew right now 😂
Thanks for the comment 👍
When you were drilling you used a right hand drill bit. Would a left hand drill bit been better? Could it possibly help dislodge the broken bolt?
@@kseselja No, these diamond bits to not bite at all, they just grind away at the material.
Thanks for the comment
Holy shit it worked. After I tried using a screw extractor, my drill bit broke inside the screw. I bought a couple of diamond hole saw bits from Lowe's and had it done within an hour. Retapping was so simple. Thank you for this video. Saved me from a major headache
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
I started out with the diamond hole saw bit method you demonstated here but became discouraged with the slow going. I picked up a Milwaukee carbide multimaterial bit (4 or 5 inches long and looks like a masonry bit) at a home improvement store for about $8.00 US. With this, the broken extractor was completely drilled out within 10 minutes. I still needed to tap new threads as you demonstrate in the video. Thank you.
Great to hear!
Thought I would update on here as a way of saying thanks! This method totally worked for me. My situation was slightly different, because I had to do it in situ. Also the bolt I snapped off was smaller diameter (M6) and therefore the extractor was smaller too. I ended up going on ebay and purchased a pack of x10 4mm diamond hole saws, and because they are so small I ended up getting through all ten of them before getting through the extractor. But the pack of 10 was only about £10, so well worth it. I could then drill the rest of the bolt out and re-tap the hole. Great advice on taking your time with this job, it pays off!
Brilliant!
Well done for having the patience and perseverance to complete the job 🙏
Would a pack of 5mm hole bits be better? Was this a bolt that broke or a tap? I have the same issue.
You offer good solid advice! I’m a machinist in New York, I work often with aluminum 3/4 inch thick plate, usually sizes range from 19.00 x20.00 to as large as 36.00x30.00, either 6061, or jig plate. Saving a plate this size is a priority. We machine these plates on a VF6 Haas machining center. Occasionally, taps break. Since these are always in house items, I have a lot of leeway on how I extract the broken tap. My preferred method is to use a fractional size carbide end mill. Say for a 1/4-20 tap, I’ll use a 1/4 inch endmill. Usually 900-1100 spindle speed, sometimes flood coolant, other times I’ll use Moly-D cutting oil from a can. I crank down the spindle in the manual mode in tenths (.0001) with some luck, one endmill will survive doing the job, other times I’ll go through 2-3. Once the hole is cleared, I’ll re drill and tap for a 1/4-20 Heli-Coil insert.
Pretty much the same method I use as well. Although, you could use a 5mm carbide endmill, and not have to use a heli-coil. A 3/16ths might do it as well?
Wow. Thanks for sharing. Do you use a normal electric hand drill.
If your working with aluminum you can always dissolve the tap by soaking piece of aluminum for a few hrs or overnight in a heated solution of Battery Acid and Alum (potassium aluminum sulfate). method works great for aluminum but does take awhile. won't harm the aluminum in anyway whatsoever but it may discolor the aluminum but the discoloration rubs right out with a good aluminum polish or can just hit it with a piece of fine sandpaper. done this method many times breaking off small taps like 1.5mm and 2mm I use for aluminum parts for R/C vehicle parts and it works awesome. works well enough that I actually have a glass jar filled with the solution in garage just for those rainy days that ill need it. lol
AWESOME INFO, THANKS FOR THE SPEEDS, LUBE, ENDMILL INSTRUCTIONS!!!
If you're breaking taps frequently, why not buy a metal disintegration machine and do this job in a few minutes?
Left handed drill bits are also a good trick to use, they will usually spin the remains out when they grab.
🤔
Love the idea of a bolt as a centre guide, so simple and effective! Great video.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Just snapped a 8mm 316 stainless bolt off, drilled it out to 6mm, stuck the easy out in and it snapped off flush. I watched 4 videos on removal options, purchased, drill bits, dremmel bits and spade type tile drills. They all broke. The only thing that worked was your tile drill bit. It seemed like it wasn't working after the initial sharpness wore off, so instead of going slow i just hammered it for 10 seconds at time, refreshing cutting fluid and it worked. Over all, 6 hrs of trying and failing, 30 mins of your method and success!! Thank you, one can stop swearing now.
Well done for being so persistent and not giving up 👏 👍
If your still around, I first watched video 4/8/2022, you've helped my dilema tremendously!!!! THANK YOU! I have subscribed.
Awesome, thank you!
Very good. If you break a tap its a disaster, usually. I am happy to learn that there are still options that does not require a repair shop. I liked the emphasis on self control. When i was a teen tinkering with stuff my dad always tried to teach me to take a 15-30 minute break when i felt a rage and need to smash things up with a hammer. It cost me a fortune in broken stuff before i finally learned the wisdom of those words. :)
5 out of 5 for this video!
I've been told that I have a lot of patience, but I do swear a lot when doing jobs like this- especially when I was on site!
A guy that I worked with on site had even more patience than me (Vinny Davies), he had the patience of a saint for sure!
Thanks for all of your comments 👍
Dear god you are a genius. I used a 3/16” diamond core to drill a screw extractor out of an M6 bolt that snapped off on my truck and it worked flawlessly
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
I used a "rescue bit" to drill out a broke ez out on 6-71 blower cover. Was replacing the allen head plug with a vent button. Those rescue bits are worth every penny.
👍
I'm impressed!! Thought it might not be possible to get a broken screw extractor out but you made it look easy! Thanks!!
Thanks for the comment 👍
I love you!!!!! This video saved the motor in my truck. I would have never thought about using a diamond coated hole saw... worked great!! Thank you so much (new subscriber here!!)
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks Chez
Again those bits are really impressive! It's certainly a way out if you're stuck like that.
But that "click" when the tap broke. Still makes my blood run cold!
I can still hear the bloke who taught me fitting!
You are welcome, Dave 😉
Yes, those bits are mighty impressive!
Thanks for the comment
One thing that has made removing broken bolts/screws easier for me is the use Left-Hand drills when drilling out the center of the broken bolt because sometimes they will snag and turn the screw out for you saving time and effort. This would be after getting the center drilled if you were to use the drill guide that he made/uses. Great video and I will be looking for these JCB drills. Thanks so much!!!!!
Absolutely, left handed drill bits are great ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
I felt like I was watching a suspense movie. That was amazing that you just rolled with the flow and ended up victorious.
What a great set of methods you resorted to with each problem and the patience.
And I will say also, like the others, walking away from really stressful, critical problems really saves the day oftentimes. Take that break.
Jesus bless.
Wow, thank you!
Thank you so much I’m fighting a broken easy out and bolt flush at the front of my crank this idea is the only one that seems to be working
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
It’s a really good tip that taking a break helps get the job done. I bet you could have Jerry rigged some cooling once you had removed the guide bolt. My background is electronics and I am planning to build a spark erosion tool one day.
Absolutely, I've seen people get wound up over a piece of metal in the past and it does you no favours!
The spark erosion machine sounds ace, I'd love to see that when you have made it.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
First off excellent job of showing how to get broken bolts out. I owned a radiator shop and we had to fight broken bolts in aluminum radiator tanks. Steel bolts in aluminum radiator tanks would seize in. The bit you used and the bolts you made are great. I would have bought them. I have a few other ideas.
1. If you had the hole pointing up you could have filled it with water or WD40 so you did not have to dip so often.
2. Snap-On makes a kit with reverse rotation drill bits. It comes with guides that center the hole. They are not as nice as the bolts you made. They are not threaded. But the screw extractor that comes with them is custom made for the drill bit size and works better than the tapered screw extractor.
3. I have heated up the broken off tap/bolt and let it cool slowly to soften it up. Then drilled it out. The cobalt bits are good but they are also prone to break off.
4. I have welded a nut on to the broken bolt with TIG welding and heated and backed it out.
5. I really like HeliCoils, they work great.
6. I have drilled out a bolt and moved up to the next size at times.
Final note: You could sell the bolts you made. I am old and retired, but surely would have bought or tried any new items to make a task like this easier. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the comment, Patrick 👍
What you ran into is called the galvanic effect of dissimilar metals. Something to do with the covalent bonds of the atoms being different between the two metals. In effect they make a weak battery. Along with making a battery they corrode like a battery can too. Aluminum oxide is what sandpaper is made out of. So it's some pretty hard and abrasive stuff. Oxides being brittle can be used to advantage. Sometimes you just have to shock the monkey. Impact beats torque.
I've just ordered a set of diamond hole saws,your advice is spot on.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I wasn’t sure about using a drill bit made for ceramic tile but IT TOTALLY WORKED!! Nightmare over, thanks man!!
Great to hear!
6 years later.. THANK YOU SO MUCH for making this vid!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Yes this was very educational. I'm partway through a job. Don't know about my next step. Very hardened large steel bolt. Using carbide bits. May resort to a diamond hole saw but many videos say they don't work good? I've used them in the past and they really helped with broken taps, and extractors. Keep up the great videos!
I think this is one of your best presentation. Lots of excellent ideas. Thanks for posting.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Really enjoyed this video thanks for sharing it. I run into this stuff all the time I use a good cement bit to get the broken taps and exactors out also I really liked your bolt guide idea. Much RESPECT!!!!!! ✌🏻from Ga.
wow i learn new thing every time i watch your video and i am a tec in motor trade field for 13 year, thank you for posting this awesome video
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 😉
I've worked with a few very good fitters in my time, old school, hands on but you're on a different level. I don't know who your employer is or how much they pay you but it isn't enough.
I think the important thing to learn from this video is "don't break the tap/screw extractor"
Thanks, I've worked with some brilliant fitters over the last few years and I've learnt a lot from them, I still work with one of them now (he was 65 on Friday).
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Excellent video!! The mini tile hole saw saved me a trip to the machine shop and worked like a charm! Thanks Again!!
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
This has saved me from hauling my block to shop. Thanks!
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
A lot of Time, Effort, and expense in showing us these Videos. Much appreciated. Thank you
You are welcome, Peter ;-)
Thanks for the comment
I really like that idea to have a hole in the center of a bolt to guide your drill bit in nice and straight and not ruin any threads when drilling in the broken bolt !!!! Ingenious !!!!
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for another quality video. Your step wise approach to a difficult task is a lesson for all of us!
Thanks for the comment 😉
Mr ultimate probably the very best thing you can add to you toolkit after the centering bolt is a set of left had threaded drills. I can sharpen my own drills by hand because I have done it so long. If you do sharpen your own make the bite very aggressive. It is many times faster than your method but it is very nice to have your method to fall back to.
Only recently found your channel and have learnt so many things already. Very professional and practical advice to match. Thank you for your efforts!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
I've been doing this for years in my machine shop, it's painfully slow but it works without sacrificing an expensive carbide end mill.. it's especially useful on tiny taps
Wow. The fact that you purposely broke off a tap to help other people who never in a million years want to break off any bolts or extractors.
You're a real one thank you. Currently stepping away to take a break from a broken extractor in a cylinder head bolt.
Best of luck with yours 👍
I was surprised to see the JCB hole saw was an affordable tool, must get a couple of sizes, another excellent video.
Thanks for the comment
This does work! I used a Milwaukee diamond hole saw bit to drill out a easy out that was broken off in an exhaust stud in the engine head. I took my time and used water to help lubricate it over and over. Eventually it came out and I was able to tap it and save the head.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I love how the tap refused to play ball & break... & when it did, it broke in a place I have never seen a tap break in my 30 years experience as a machinist / repair guy... 🙄😂
If you could rig it so you were drilling vertically & had a continuous flow of cooling water, you would have speeded the job up... but thats not always possible.
Thank you for going through the whole effort to show the process involved...
Regarding tapping the hole or using an extractor... in situations like this particularly, I use a NEW tap, preferably a Presto spiral-point machine tap and use a good quality cutting oil like Rocol or similar, backing out, cleaning the swarf out & going in again ... patience is the name of the game.
I think its even more critical to use top quality extractors as they are almost glass-hard & very brittle. Presto brand was my favourite...and yet I have managed to snap even those... 😖
Carbide tipped masonry bits can be used in a pinch but need grinding to put a positive cutting rake angle on the tip...
There is a great sense of achievement & satisfaction in successfully doing a job like this, particularly if the part is expensive to replace or maybe even irreplaceable....
You've got a sub & a like from me based on this vid alone... good job mate 😉
From the Emerald Isle
😎👍☘🍺
www.rocol.com/products/rtd-chlorine-free-liquid
www.presto-tools.co.uk/ProductGrp/metric-coarse-spiral-point-taps-iso-529
www.presto-tools.co.uk/Products/screw-extractor-sets/096001-6
Thanks for the detailed comment 👍
the drill guide is brilliant. if not commercially available, you should market them. fascinating vids for an old wrenchbreaker to see from across the puddle.
Thanks, apparently you can buy something very similar called vent screws/bolts.
Thanks for the comment
working on a engine .two blots snap/ drilled out one stud.used a extractor .next one snap r. 5/32 BSF used a mig .no way. used a harden pointed chisel. chipping a way at the die .2 hours later got it out. talk about a brake. your right. just my luck . fitting a oil pump in the casing. did not use a nuff heat split the casing. i wish i seen your video before hand. thank from john
Hi John, that sounds like a nightmare!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for the tip with diamond drill bit
Didn't know that these exist.
I bought a 6mm and will try to drill out the broken drill bit from my car flywheel.
There is a hole to block the crankshaft from rotating and the drill broke off when i forgot to remove it and i turned the starter.
Now im changing the clutch and i want to remove the stuck piece in it.
It's amazing actually that some stone called diamond is harder than any hardest metal and it eats it like butter
Absolutely, it is amazing how hard diamond is!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for another good video. I broke a screw extractor once. I initially thought "oh no" but due to the tapered profile of the screw extractor(SE) there is not a lot of contact between the SE and the bolt. I manged to knock it clockwise to release its grip and just took it out. A broken tap is a different matter. I would recommend before drilling the tap or SE to try something - anything you can think of to rewind it out of the hole, when all else fails then move on to the good advice in this video.
That's a good point about the screw extractor 👍
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Can you use this technique on a block for a small block Chevy I broke the water pump bolt inside then broke the extractor in it also
That’s an excellent point about not letting jobs get on top of you
Thanks Luke ;-)
I ran out of patience just watching the drilling process. So I paused the video; got myself a "cup o' tea", and resumed the video. Thanks for the education.
@@cybair9341 Nice one 😂
I just broke off and easy out inside of a really small bolt in my dirt bike..... so depressed right now
Unfortunately, it's usually how you get into this spot in the first place. Definitely great advice.
could you modify your drill bit guide to feed a water drip inside that hole while drilling like a tile wet saw does and diamond blade?
I've read about a device called a tap extractor, which has three arms that go down the flutes of the tap. I saw one guy on youtube carefully back out a broken tap with that. Any thoughts?
I have seen those, but I can't see them working in most cases. If a tap breaks because it has bottomed out in a hole, I really can't see one of those extractors working to be honest.
Thanks for the comment 👍
You are a life saver, this video got me out of a real problem 👍
I'm glad the video helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Really good tutorial and sound advice ...... I screwed my shoulder and arm up by not taking a break and getting stressed out drilling through glass ....... stress is a killer
Thanks for the comment 👍
I have found you can sometimes shatter the remains of the tap by punching with another hard steel punch. Alternatively on small individual parts heat the whole lot up to take the tap steel to a softened state when cool and use a standard drill to take it out.
👍
Big thanks! You saved me a set of cylinder heads. Broke a screw extra off in a broken head bolt.
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
I previously viewed your video that went into more detail regarding using guide bolts... it's a great concept! Does any of you RUclipsrs know if someone is selling guide bolt sets??? I'm really not set up to make precisely centered holes in the center of "allen head" cap screws, and most in my experience tend to be a bit harder than the typical bolts laying about in my shop or those at the big box stores. Thanks for your efforts to produce your vids... gives us a LOT of useful advice!
This video just saved my ass, burnt through about 100 dollars in cobalt. Thank you
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Brilliant option.
Two thinks i was pondering.
If it was possible to fixture it to use a drill press, the hole could be filled with water.... Less trips to the dunk tank and more time drilling.
For the final drilling, i noticed the bit grab and jerk the drill. I wonder what could happen using a left hand drill.
Not being critical, just pondering out loud.
Thanks for this "bit" of knowlege. 👍
Just found your video. Watched it from beginning to end. Thanks for tips. I have to deal with something like this on a 5speed transmission turret. Cross my fingers I can get the busted bolt the previous owner decided to leave in there for me to find. SMH. Cheers.
Also like your idea of a drilled out socket head cap screw for a drill guide.
Thanks for the comment
👍
The removing a broken tap was very interesting. Very good tutorial. i hav'n't seen those diamond core drills but that is something I'm going to definitely look for online. For repair shops, it might be good to divide the number of times you can use a core drill by its cost, when working out a customer charge. Great work! I'm subscribed and following!!
The diamond coated hole saws are often used for drilling porcelain tiles.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Oh man I'm having a bad time right now. I snapped a bolt off on an exhaust manifold and then snapped off an extractor in the bolt. So I am in a similar situation. Worse thing is that I can't take the manifold off, without a garage taking the body off the vehicle.. so it's got to be done in situ. I have some solid carbide bits coming, and some diamond hole cutters coming as well. I am worried that I might snap a carbide bit off in the hole and then things will be even worse... so I will probably take the extra time to do it this way. Thanks for uploading. 🙂
Sounds like a nightmare!
Best of luck with it 👍
Left hand drill bits?
you could also run the diamond bit backwards to help extract, and if you use a left hand bit on the bolt it will often back itself out.
But, a well made video, with lots of good advice.
The diamond bits do not bite like a normal drill bit- they slowly grind away.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Like the way you switch drills
Thanks for the comment 👍
we appreciate all your video by helping a lot off pepole enjoyed the video.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Love the alternate but understandable English "Buttered up" rather than buggered up. Amazing hints. Ive run into this and just over sized the hole but this is better
Is that the added English subtitles, or the automatically generated ones?
If the former I'll sack the editor ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Being from the other side of the pond, we use different words. Like you use spinner and we use wrench. I'm just picking up nuances of true English rather than are buggered up English/German/melting pot language.
No I was not using the subtitle. I'm pretty sure you said buttered up. Not a flaw just a haha
@@coulssp I said "seriously battered" at one point- ruclips.net/video/7JCfEMrCjhc/видео.html The ARTU drill bits are badly damaged at the ends, which is why I said that.
Thanks for the comments
This is priceless information and advice.. Many thanks.
You are welcome 👍
Excellent video! Great tip about the drilled out bolt for use as a drill guide.👍
Thanks 👍
Love the drill guides.
Thanks for the comment
Brave and selfless man subjecting yourself to this just to show us all what to do!
Would another option be to carefully build the height of it up with a welder and then weld a nut to it?
Yes, you can try the welder, but normally if a tap has broken it will normally beat my welding skills ;-)
Thanks for the comment
You may have saved my engine block, I will try this and post an update. Thank you.
Best of luck with it 👍
Broke a 1/4-20, half way in.
Used a few 3/16 masonry bits and got thru. About 2.5 hrs drilling.
👍
You might try running your diamond drill counterclockwise as you drill. I have used left hand spiral carbide drills to drill the pilot hole in bolts to accept an easy out. Many times the bolt will come out while drilling the pilot due the constant unscrewing forces while drilling.
I'm afraid that diamond coated bits do not bite, like a standard drill bit- they just grind away the material.
Thanks for the comment 👍
What a pain! Hope i never have to deal with that. Thanks for the work in this.
I hope I don't have to deal with this again for a long time either ;-)
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
I have a bolt broke of in atv frame with a extractor broken off in bolt. Both are flush with frame bolt hole.
Thank you for this!!! Tried it.... and it worked perfectly! Saved me big time!!!!
Glad it helped!
Can you explain why you broke the first tap and drilled through it
People often break taps/screw extractors/drill bits, which are all made from a similar tough steel, which cannot be drilled out using regular drill bits. This video shows that it is possible to drill out hard steels, without using a solid carbide bit 👍
Well, I was stuck on how to remove a bolt shaft that was stuck inside an expensive part on my 2cyl westerbeke diesel. I had broken off a drill bit in one end and a screw extractor in the other end. The bolt might still be stuck, but not for long, now! Thanks!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Ultimate Handyman
I now have a running diesel. It cost me $18 for the bit, which is still almost new. Very happy. Your extraordianry effort at creating such a time-consuming and expensive how-to is ver much appreciated here. Thank you again.
How about turning the casting on it's side and dribbling water into the work to keep the bits cool and somewhat lubricated in order to make the task faster and easier ?
Excellent video, thanks. Brilliant tips. I like the way you use the WD40 (or similar) to clean the hole and the tap. It's all these details that make your videos so useful.
Thanks for the comment, Mark ;-)
Good information and I did not know about those little diamond tip hole saws I will be getting a set of those for sure! Any time you have unlike metals together like this I am not shy using anti_seize compound on the threaded bolt going into the aluminum its a practice that can save you a whole lot of time later on!
Thanks for sharing its very good information!
Thanks for the comment 👍
U /h/man I think I would be inclined to mount on a drill press and proceed very carefully keeping drill bit wet and cool, would it be a good idea
Sure, a drill press is always best, providing you can move the work piece 👍
I have a tap stock in my GM motor block 5.3....I seen that alum will disolve the steel and leave the aluminum alone
Its worth a try ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Great job. I broke a tap in an exhaust manifold years ago, and an engineer workshop charged a Kings ransom to remove it! Have you ever tried drilling in a lower speed setting?
What can you use to center the bit if you don’t have threads to run your guide down? Wanted to make your bolt center guide but I’m trying to drill the center of a crankshaft bolt and have no threads near snout.
I normally just use a centre punch and punch as close to the centre of the bolt as possible.
Example here-
ruclips.net/video/MR2Dd30Wees/видео.html