2013-2018 Nissan Altima Front & Rear Brake Replacement
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 дек 2022
- What's up everybody!
This is a DIY how-to on replacing Front & Rear Brakes/Rotors on a 2013-2018 5th gen. Nissan Altima. This is an updated and better recording/version of the job vs. my original how-to. Torque Specs included.
*DISCLAIMER: I am NOT a Master Tech, just a long time wrencher.
*Check out my How-To on getting 5th Gen. Altima on jackstands:
• 2013-2018 Nissan Altim...
Car in video is a 2014 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL. 
Авто/Мото
Thanks for the torque specs and great video. I've done this before but lost the specs. smh also thanks about where the rubber should go that one threw my mind out because when I removed them my first time didn't know there was a difference in the pins. 😂
Lol trust me ive been there! But appreciate the comment man 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Thank you for your detail and clarity! this really helps. keep up the good work!👍
Awesome! Thank you for the comment!
appreciate this video.... I have a 2016 SL that I was hoping to do a brake job on.... this will help greatly!
Awesome! I appreciate the comment! 🙏
Great video man. Look forward to seeing you more
Appreciate the comment 🙏
Great video. Very detailed explanation, even a baby with SIDS could do a brake job after watching this. Thanks!
LOL 🙏🙏🙏 truly appreciate the comment!!
Until the axle is frozen
Thanks, friend! Very thorough, very useful. Thanks for the torque settings too! That's really professional of you.
Thank you! I appreciate the comment!!!
Yooo, the link to the jack tutorial is cluuuuutch. Another video done right.
Lol I appreciate that bro! 🙏🙏🙏
Awesome vid and tips. ready to do this for my friend.
Appreciate it! Good luck with job! 👍
This is a really good video thank you
Appreciate the comment!
great video helped me out a lot thank you
Appreciate the comment thank you!
Great video. Do more!
🙏🙏🙏
I discovered open the bleeder valve when compressing the piston back in, this prevents and damage to the abs
Just open it until you see fluid and then compress the piston, close the valve once it’s tight. After wards you will need to add fluid to the reservoir. Do not open the cap until you are done with the job and have started the car and pumped the brakes, move and make sure they work, then open the cap and top off 👍👍
This video made the job for me tho thank you very much sir!!
@@jakee8704 🙏
Wow I’m doing this next.
very intersting video..question about the RED, YELLOW, and GREEN plastic tool for measuring the BREAKS, could you give me the LINK to buy it.
i might add if your rubber sleeve is bad or swollen and won't go back into the caliper it is just a anti rattle part and if the local part stores dont have them in stock, which most stores wont ,they are not a safety issue to not put them back in in order to finish your brake job
Agreed
Do power steering fluid next bro!!
Your videos are so informative. I’m doing this tomorrow but on the rogue. Should be Generally the same steps. Do a starter video on the Altima 2.5 next. Thank you.
I appreciate it Carl! Thank you 🙏 and yes should be very similar on the Rouge! And if the starter goes on this Altima I’ll definitely be doing a video on it!
Where do you get your impact adapter/sockets? I have a dewalt impact like yours but would love to get a nice set of impact sockets I could use for car work. Just used your valve cover video (watched about 4 times plus the 5th to do the job), much appreciated!
Appreciate the comment! But wherever i can get them the cheapest / best deal lol. IIRC i think i got my Dewalt impact sockets from home depot’s website.
Harbor freight has good impact sockets.
Thank you
🙏🙏🙏🙏
I just replaced my brakes. After replacing the rear brakes the parking brake doesn't have enough tension anymore to lock the rear brakes. Did I miss a step or do I just need to adjust the shoes out a little? IF so, do I turn the adjust up or down? THanks for the great tutorial. I now have the brakes replaced and the transmission fluid/filters replaced. 216K miles on my 2015 and it's running nice and smooth. Hope to get another 100K out of it.
Nice! As far as parking brake, did you replace rotors too?
@@TheOriginalBeeCeeYes, I replaced the Rotors. I guess I assumed they would be the drum would have the same dimensions as the original Drum. I guess I just need to loosen the calipers so the rotor spins freely and adjust the shoes until the drum holds and back off a little from there. By the way, do you have or have you thought of doing a radiator flush on the Altima? I'd love to see that.
@@briananderson7497 yea, you might need to adjust them accordingly. Also, if you haven’t ensure the inner rotor is super clean. They put oil on new rotors for shelf longevity, so ensure its all gone because that definitely wouldn’t help either.
But i plan to do one in the near future, ive had quite a few people ask me about doing one!
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I will work on that this weekend. Thanks for the input. I've learned a lot from you. Honestly, best step by step mechanical work on youtube. Hands down.
@@briananderson7497 thanks so much man! I truly appreciate the comment 🙏🙏
What is the difference between these rotors and pads as opposed to a cheaper brand?
Really just quality. How long they last, how much they rust, the amount of brake dust they create, etc. etc.
Hey bro, how many Km/s or time I need change the rotors for my nissan altima 2015?
thanks for support !!
Thats hard to say man, very subjective question. Depends on use, prior maintenance, etc. some need to be changed at 30k miles, some could make it to 100k+. Just depends on their condition.
Rotors should be flat and smooth, there shouldn’t be a lip on the edge of them, nor any grooving on unevenness on the face of the rotor. So its really just a matter of their condition via visual inspection vs. an actually mileage.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee So, if my disc have a scratches when touch it teh same not its normal? whats happen if I just rectified?
@@juniorromeo9905 they should be super smooth to the touch, so if you can feel anything while running your finger across the surface of them, then i would replace them.
Where did u get the torque specs information at?
Nissan FSM
Should you open the break fluid reservoir?
You can if it makes you feel better, but most definitely don’t have to, and I don’t.
In fact, all the FSM recommends is siphoning (turkey baster) some fluid out of reservoir, to prevent it overflowing from compressing. Same recommendation from Haynes manuals, etc.
I actually don’t even do that though. What i’ve been doing for a little while that I really like is after I’m done each corner, go back in car and pump brakes a few times….and build the pedal back up stiff to get all the fluid basically back in the corner. Haven’t had any fluid overflow yet or anything utilizing this method. And i could be crazy, but I think it helps to really have an even better nice solid stiff pedal when the job is done.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee this method still working for you? i'm replacing my brakes for the first time. just got the front set on today, doing rear tomorrow. tested it out & seems fine, followed what you said here.
sidenote: do u know any indicator for when to bleed the brakes or mess with fluid? i'm worried about messing up my ABS.
Whats up man. A little late but yes, that’s how I do all my brake jobs now. Works great. As for messing with the fluid, its a very opinionated subject. A lot of people/service guides etc will day 30-60k swap it, ive seen people recommend 100k, etc. personally as long as its functioning as it should & not dark/dirty looking, i leave it alone. I don’t do it to often.
The rear brakes has the parking brakes within the disk, hence the "inpection hole", which is actually the hole to adjust the parking shoe brakes.
and nothing wrong with german torque...GUD EN TIGHT
Why would the rear pads wear unevenly?
Could be a combination of different things, but more than likely either the replacement was prolonged and the brakes should have been done earlier, and/or the caliper is seizing. Rear calipers are good for freezing up and seizing, that would be noticeable once the caliper was taken off and the piston was attempted to be retracted. Would be really stiff, and/or not retract at all.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I really hate to ask you another question, but you’re such a huge help! And feel like you should be paid for your information 😂. My wife unfortunately hit a curb pretty hard in the passenger front and ever since then the car shakes violently when braking around 60-80mph and typically only going downhill, any idea what this could be?
@@alliewilcox8622 lol well like & subscribe will definitely help me get paid!! Lol. 🙏🙏🙏 and it only shakes when braking? Doesn’t do it while driving?
@@TheOriginalBeeCee nope only when braking, and not even necessarily on flat ground, usually only downhill and 60-80mph, she says the wheel jerks when braking sometimes but definitely shakes violently at higher speeds and downhill
@@alliewilcox8622 very interesting. Weird that its only doing it on braking after an impact. I would take the wheel off and visibly inspect everything very closely if you haven’t already. Check the wheel hub/bearing for tightness too, the wheel should be super stiff and have no play if you grab it at 9 & 3 and rock it. If nothing jumps out, maybe have the alignment and/or wheel checked. Wheel could be slightly bent, and if a suspension component is bent for example a good alignment shop should be able to identify it.
Why not use blue lock tight on those 4 bolts
Because not necessary. They do not come with loctite from factory either.
You should cleaned the abutment hardware if ur not going to use new hardware
I’m not opposed to that, as I did that in the video if you watched the whole thing. But it would change absolutely nothing regardless if you do it or not.