2013-2018 Nissan Altima Front & Rear Brake Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- What's up everybody!
WATCH THE NEW AND IMPROVED VERSION OF THIS HOW TO:
• 2013-2018 Nissan Altim...
This is a DIY how-to on replacing Front & Rear Brakes/Rotors on a 2013-2018 5th gen. Nissan Altima. Torque Specs included.
*DISCLAIMER: I am NOT a Master Tech/Mechanic, just a long time wrencher.
*Check out my How-To on getting 5th Gen. Altima on jackstands:
• 2013-2018 Nissan Altim...
Car in video is a 2014 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL.
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*I HAVE A NEW & IMPROVED VERSION OF THIS JOB!*
New front & rear brake replacement video for 2013-2018 Altima:
ruclips.net/video/b0KYoPBWWww/видео.html
…watch the new version for your brake how-to needs!
This is exactly what I was looking for. Step by step directions with video to accompany them. When you threw in the torque specs, I was blown away. You just saved me at least $500.00. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment 🙏 I’m glad it helped!
First actual video from start to finish and it’s actually perfect and Informative. Thanks bro
Viccy Rozay awesome I appreciate it! im glad it helped👍
This is what i will be attempting tomorrow! so glad i found your tutorial, your instructions are super clear and easy to follow. Thanks for the awesome Video.
I definitely appreciate it! Good luck 👍
Thanks so much and thank you for the specs. I'm about to do my first brake job by myself at 38 years old. If I known they where this easy I should have done my others and the money I would have saved. smh
J Beezy later is better than never man! Im glad this helped and good luck with the job 👊👊
The torque specs, I love you man
Haaa I appreciate it 🙌
Hey great video and explanation! Out of curiosity what would happen if you somehow swapped the sliding pins by accident?
It really doesn’t matter to be honest.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thanks I followed your video to the Tee, but I am starting to hear a humming / squealing noise when I brake. I started to second guess if I swapped the pins my accident
@@ThePackman2323 it’s probably the hardware (the clips the pads seat into). I would take them back off and ensure they aren’t making small contact with the rotor or anything else.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thanks a lot I will do that. I should have kept my original hardware like you suggested 😂. The aftermarket material just doesn't cut it
@@ThePackman2323 haha yupp that’s exactly why i suggest staying with the OE. I guarantee that’s your noise
Great video BTW! Very helpful 👍
Thank you!
Im really impressed how you change the brakes pads and rotors with one hand ! while recording
QuincyMalik lol thank you I appreciate it! Had my fair share of practice lol
When you do the front ones pads and rotors do you have to bleed them ??? Or its only when you do the front and back ?? Thank you really like your videos
There is no particular situation (in reference to front and/or rear) that requires the brakes to be bled. They don’t have to be bleed every time the brakes are serviced either. Bleeding would be required more if the fluid is dark and/or old, contaminated, or if a line is opened in the system, that would allow air in. But if the car has a lot of miles, etc. I would suggest a bleed.
thank you very much , your video really help with an issue I had 😁
Glad it helped!
Hey I have another question. What kind of torque wrench are you using (specifically for the rear) I have a torque wrench for tire changing and it's too long to fit in the space where the tire is. I basically can't use it because it's too long.
Its a smaller 3/8 drive torque wrench. So you would need to grab a smaller 1/4 or 3/8 drive torque wrench. However, Autozone rents a 3/8 drive torque wrench that would fit, believe its an “OEM Tools” torque wrench.
Well explanation, great video! Thanks for sharing.
Minh Pham thanks for the comment 🙏
I'm probably going to be doing this again. I just did this on my car but I forgot to clean the rotors so now the front ones smoke. Everything was taken apart and cleaned and brake pads sanded but still burning and smoking.
Front bracket bolts: 107 ft.lbs, Caliper slide bolts: 20 ft.lbs
Rear bracket bolts: 62 ft.lbs, Caliper slide bolts: 32 ft.lbs
What size is the rooter blot? You was useing on your drill
Hey is this a Nissan Altima 2013? I saw another video and it said 98 and 20 on the front for torque and 80 and 30 on the rear.
The torque specs in this video are straight from the Nissan factory service manual! 👍
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Thanks for the information! Much appreciated
Do you take off brake fluid reservoir cap before pressing the piston in?
No I typically don't, although I'm not opposed to it. Honestly, most OEM FSM's will suggest siphoning some fluid out of the MC before compressing.
So you don't have to open the brake fluid reservoir before retracting the pistons?
I typically don't, although I'm definitely not opposed to it. Honestly, most OEM FSM's and the actual Nissan FSM suggests siphoning some fluid out of the MC before compressing, not just removing cap.
Do all Nissan altimas come with a wear sensor on the brake pad?
Great video. Kudos!!
Thomas j thank you 🙏
Do you know what is the torque for the front and rear caliper bracket bolts?
Hello do you have a recommendation for break pad and rotor brand?
I’m a fan of Powerstop
At the last part you mention something about bleed the brakes ?? How?? Is there a video you can provide please
Honestly, you don’t truly need to bleed the brakes every time pads and/or rotors are replaced. But the typical interval changes for most manufacturers are every 40K-60K. So, it might be a good idea depending on the mileage.
I got the same pads and I believe the clips are not right as well. Is that what could be causing my brand new break pads and rotors to constantly squeal lightly? If so, and I already tossed the old clips, what can I do?
Also how did you get the pads to go in so easily? We had to jimmy them in with a screwdriver and hammer.
Hey whats up man. From my experiences, not always...but a lot of the time, aftermarket hardware/shims do not fit as good & tight as OE hardware. It might look better cause it’s new and shiny, but doesn’t always seat as well as OEM. Hardware that doesn’t fit correctly can definitely cause unwanted noises/squealing after doing a brake job. I would suggest maybe taking it back apart and spin the rotor with the caliper/pads off, just the bracket installed, to determine if the hardware is loose and/or making contact anywhere on the rotor while spinning. Then try spinning it with everything back together and re-check to ensure the hardware isn’t making contact anywhere with pads/caliper installed. If it is, maybe purchase some new OE Hardware, or maybe give some hardware from AZ/advance a shot and see if you get better fitment.
The fact you mentioned having to force the pads in as well...could also be playing a role in noise issues. Pads should just slip right in and fall in....shouldn’t have to fight them to fit. Sometimes cheaper pads don’t just slide in. Some mechanics will even take the edges of the pads to a grinder wheel with just a quick touch to ensure the pads slips right in and have free movement, as it should. But forcing pads in can definitely contort and deform the hardware and cause improper fitment and potentially it can cause the hardware to touch the rotor from forcing the pads in.
What's that tool called that you used for the rear caliper to retract the piston?
It’s an OEM Tools Pad Separator.
My man got the black forces on. Can install your brakes and rotors then rob your opps
Lolol always gotta be ready to square up mid-job 🤣
2019 altima too?
Hell yeah
What are the tools required for this
Does anyone know the size of the two bolds that hold the Caliper brackets ( not the calipers )
22mm hex heads. I don't know the size of the bolt, but the head is 22mm.
turn the wheel out you may not have to take that splash panel off
Definitely 👍
What I was thinking
Glad someone said something. I was just about type it.
what size is that C Clamp?
Its a 6”
Is it the same for the 2019 sr
Can’t confirm 100 percent, as I have yet to brakes on a 6th Gen. Alty. But I’m confident its similar. All the Altima and Maxima brakes have been damn near the same setup since 2000. I’m actually gonna release a 8th Gen. Maxima brake job video today or tomorrow, which is going to be I’m sure damn near the same as well, as it’s almost the same as this.
You could’ve pressed the piston in with out putting the caliber back on
It’s “caliper”, and yes, yes you can. There are quite a few ways to successfully retract a caliper. I chose to do it that way just for the video, at the time I thought it would be the easiest method for a “how-to” and someone new to doing it this, to help with stability & ensure a perfect retract.
Get u a caliper brake tool. Putting the caliper and bracket back on seems like a waste of time lol
Could you show me that whole exp on my 2015 , lol
Could have hit them back rotors with a better hammer and not so close to the studs and it would of broken free alone faster 😂
Lol definitely. Rubber mallet is the answer. I just didnt have mine at the time.
Does black tipped caliper bolt go on top or bottom?
Bottom
Just turn your wheel the direction your trying to take off .
Most definitely! I should have mentioned that. The reason I didn’t was for anybody who would only be doing one side at a time, not have the whole front end on jack-stands, cause obviously it would need both front wheels in the air to turn accordingly. Definitely should have mentioned it in in the video…this is a early video from me, not my best production 🤣
-17
So the front rotors have a more shallow drum, while the rear rotors are deeper?
Yupp!!
@@TheOriginalBeeCee awesome, thankyou.
@@northernnightmare7986 no problem 👍