Thank you for the helpful video. I just changed my wife's 2015 Altima 2.5 front and rear rotors and pads today. Unfortunately, I didn't understand until the rear brakes video the importance of a high temp grease versus low temp so I had to go back and regrease the caliper pins. And before that on the front brakes I didn't realize the bottom of the pad clips needed to be pushed aside to provide a spring action to hold the pads in place. I just placed the bottom slot past the clip next to the rotor. So I had to go back and fix that. Ugh. Long day but thank you for saving us money. Nissan quoted $850 plus tax and I did it for $410 plus about $120 in tools and supplies I didn't already have. And that is with Bosch pads and "premium" rotors.
@@themechanic6117 seems like a dumb question but with the loctite how difficult will it be to remove the pin for next time? I know you don't go crazy with it.
The plug on the rotor has to placed in the correct location! If it’s not ...you won’t be able to access the screw to adjust parking break. My parking breaks needed adjustment with the new rotor..Nice video helped a lot.
If the hole on the rotor doesn't line up with the adjusting wheel all you have to do is turn the rotor..... Feel free to edit your comment lol but thanks for watching.
At the 7:50 mark, can you use sil-glyde as lube where the old hardware(clips) were before you put the new clips on or does it have to be the stuff you used? I only have the sil-glyde but read you could use that on the back of the pads and the brake pad pins so was wondering if I could use that on the caliper before putting in the new shims?Although I know in another video in the comments you said you don’t use grease or lube on backs of pads or pins as it attracts dust/dirt
Any lube is better than no lube in the areas where it needs it. You can put lube on the back of pads , i do it sometime to avoid any noise. The slide pins always need lube. I dont recommend putting lube on the tabs of the pads where it contacts the hardware kit. That attracts dirt.
Just found out a few hours ago why you used a wrench and then a ratchet wrench 🔧 that damn piece in the way won’t allow a ratchet and socket not a frustrating solution but I understand now I appreciate the video for the rear and front brakes it made me understand the job and execute it and keep using that brake caliper tool I don’t wanna see you in violation of a C clamp lol 😂 just joking brother thanks and take care
Where did you put the jack? Looks like it's right behind the wheel. Why not the jacking point on the frame to the right of the tire? Or the center of the car frame in rear? Thanks!
I lifted directly on the sub frame which is very safe. Lifting from the jacking point often bends the sheet metal and can remove paint which causes it to rust
Great video I followed every step and seems like my brakes are perfect but my parking brake doesn’t hold on hills? In park and brakes on hills is fine but on parking break did I miss something
+Aaron Goins in the video I didn't touch the parking brake shoes since they're rarely used. If your shoes (brake pads inside the rotor) are ok,you just need to adjust them.
Only way to get original rotors is to go to the dealer but honestly it's a waste of money. Buy a nice coated rotor to help prevent corrosion and it'll work just like oem. On rockauto I like to buy "coated" rotors
Yes, if you put lube there all it does is collects dust n dirt. Just make sure the pads move freely and they'll be ok. When you buy a car brand new you'll find that there's no grease in those spots.
The pin in seized inside the caliper. Pull the whole caliper off. Put it in a vice and heat up where the pin goes in while working the pin back n forth.if it doesnt come out or if it brakes you'll have to buy a new caliper bracket.
Watching you with this file lmao you have a good concept but you Should never say your a mechanic I watch to see how many vids are posted b4 I post a video of the same work. Another pointer you should use never seize not brake parts grease debris stick more to grease your doing a good job just try to use a file in 1 direction and try to be better informed not to say your way is wrong but their are more ways to be easier. Good luck in the future
Thank you for replacing the hardware. I've seen a few of these where these dudes are like, "oh yeah the existing hardware here looks fine, we'll just brush some of the shit off them with a wire brush!" Uhhhhh no. If you're going to do the job, at least do it right. Replace the f'n hardware people. Yeah, it's gonna cost you more money to get it, but, wouldn't you rather spend a little extra for new hardware as opposed to having that flimsy ass shit fail on you later while you're trying to stop a moving vehicle from 65 mph? Come the hell on...
Thanks for the video. I can't trust any mechanic cause they always rip people off. I been trying to do my own pads and rotors for a while now. But I have none of those tools. Can you please list the tools for me. What are there proper names , so I can purchase it . Thanks
David D well you should have a floor jack and a tire iron to remove the wheel.hopefully you have a set in the trunk. Beyond that a basic ratchet set should let you get the job done. So get a 3/8 ratching and make sure it has all the socket sizes listed in the video . 19 mm wrench, wire brush for cleaning things.hammer, flat head screw driver.You can use a wire or string to hold the caliper up. Some caliper grease and brake parts cleaner.
Ok i hate drums the springs spinning stuff to much for me I would not just want to do the pads and leave my shoes old but can't do the shoe stuff mechanic time there
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for the helpful video. I just changed my wife's 2015 Altima 2.5 front and rear rotors and pads today. Unfortunately, I didn't understand until the rear brakes video the importance of a high temp grease versus low temp so I had to go back and regrease the caliper pins. And before that on the front brakes I didn't realize the bottom of the pad clips needed to be pushed aside to provide a spring action to hold the pads in place. I just placed the bottom slot past the clip next to the rotor. So I had to go back and fix that. Ugh. Long day but thank you for saving us money. Nissan quoted $850 plus tax and I did it for $410 plus about $120 in tools and supplies I didn't already have. And that is with Bosch pads and "premium" rotors.
Ty for this video. I replaced my break pads myself today after watching this. I'm pretty proud of myself lol :)
+sheryl Lynn get I'm proud of you as well ! That's what I like to hear. Thanks for watching
Hey Sheryl-
3 years later- how's those brakes you installed doing?
After 3 years id assume those brakes got changed already
Instablaster
Excellent job. I like the way you place the camera so we see exactly what you are doing. Keep up the great work. 👍🏾 and I subscribed
+Donnell Williams Thank you, I appreciate it.
I don’t subscribe to many people but I definitely subscribed! Thanks man
Thank your👍💪
Excellent video! Never thought of using blue loctite on the bolts.
+Tom Mills thanks for watching. The loctite is extra security 👍
@@themechanic6117 seems like a dumb question but with the loctite how difficult will it be to remove the pin for next time? I know you don't go crazy with it.
It will be more difficult. As long as you torque it to spec you shouldn't need loctite
The plug on the rotor has to placed in the correct location! If it’s not ...you won’t be able to access the screw to adjust parking break. My parking breaks needed adjustment with the new rotor..Nice video helped a lot.
If the hole on the rotor doesn't line up with the adjusting wheel all you have to do is turn the rotor..... Feel free to edit your comment lol but thanks for watching.
Great video! Thank you for sharing
Well Done Sir
Thank you
At the 7:50 mark, can you use sil-glyde as lube where the old hardware(clips) were before you put the new clips on or does it have to be the stuff you used? I only have the sil-glyde but read you could use that on the back of the pads and the brake pad pins so was wondering if I could use that on the caliper before putting in the new shims?Although I know in another video in the comments you said you don’t use grease or lube on backs of pads or pins as it attracts dust/dirt
Any lube is better than no lube in the areas where it needs it. You can put lube on the back of pads , i do it sometime to avoid any noise. The slide pins always need lube. I dont recommend putting lube on the tabs of the pads where it contacts the hardware kit. That attracts dirt.
The mech a nic got you. Thank you
Just found out a few hours ago why you used a wrench and then a ratchet wrench 🔧 that damn piece in the way won’t allow a ratchet and socket not a frustrating solution but I understand now I appreciate the video for the rear and front brakes it made me understand the job and execute it and keep using that brake caliper tool I don’t wanna see you in violation of a C clamp lol 😂 just joking brother thanks and take care
i liked the big effing hammer followed by light little love taps
😂👍
what tools is that small pry bar?
Where did you put the jack? Looks like it's right behind the wheel. Why not the jacking point on the frame to the right of the tire? Or the center of the car frame in rear? Thanks!
I lifted directly on the sub frame which is very safe. Lifting from the jacking point often bends the sheet metal and can remove paint which causes it to rust
Great video I followed every step and seems like my brakes are perfect but my parking brake doesn’t hold on hills? In park and brakes on hills is fine but on parking break did I miss something
+Aaron Goins in the video I didn't touch the parking brake shoes since they're rarely used. If your shoes (brake pads inside the rotor) are ok,you just need to adjust them.
Awesome
Thnx for the detailed breakdown! It really helped!
No problem. Thanks for watching and good luck 👍
Thank you for this video. Do you know the original brand name brake rotors that Nissan puts on their altimas?
Only way to get original rotors is to go to the dealer but honestly it's a waste of money. Buy a nice coated rotor to help prevent corrosion and it'll work just like oem. On rockauto I like to buy "coated" rotors
@@themechanic6117 Awesome
What is the title of the epic background music when you were cleaning the rotor?
I wish i knew. Sorry
What’s the blue stuff you put on the bolts is that necessary??
It's blue thread locker. No its not necessary, just make sure the bolts are properly tightened
I noticed you did not put any brake parts grease where the brake pad slides on the brake hardware. Do you recommend they stay lube free?
Yes, if you put lube there all it does is collects dust n dirt. Just make sure the pads move freely and they'll be ok. When you buy a car brand new you'll find that there's no grease in those spots.
@@themechanic6117 thx Mexhanic
Really helpful, but how do I test the new break " don't know if they're breaking" and how do I adjust the parking break cuz it not working
Whats not working? The brakes or the parking brake?
Thanks
You're welcome
Hey, mech a nic- where's that music from?
It sounds "adventurous" like Star Trek or Lord of the Rings.
It was free music from the app i used to edit videos
Quick question. Should I do one side and then pump the pedal the same way I did when I replaced the front pads?
Yes, pumping the pedal after doing one side is a good way to prevent the fluid from over flowing .
I dont know much about car but is there any type of rotor and pads thats needed for the car that you recommend? I just want to change it on my own.
Go on rockauto.com and buy coated rotors from raybestos and akebono brake pads
Did you have to push the piston back in
Yes you have to push the piston back in
Good morning.....Semi-metallic or ceramic?
I think I put on ceramic but they do tend to make a little noise
I just changed them and followed this process and now I hear a squealing noise :(, what can it be ??
Check the dust shield behind the rotor. It's easy to move it and cause it to rub
Awesome.......
Thank you
Any body know the size of the caliber screw? To replace the caliber?
is there a reason i cant get the 14mm nut out i was hitting my ratchet as hard as possible and it wouldnt budge
The pin in seized inside the caliper. Pull the whole caliper off. Put it in a vice and heat up where the pin goes in while working the pin back n forth.if it doesnt come out or if it brakes you'll have to buy a new caliper bracket.
What does it mean 30* lb ft?
How and the hell you loosen up those 14mm bolts?! Mine are like cemented on there!
Try a bigger bar. There's probably thread locker on them
@@themechanic6117 naw, I just needed some more man power lol them suckers was on tight! But I got it! Thanks for the video and the response!!
What would the front caliper bracket bolts be torque number
I can remember. I have a dedicated video on doing the altima from brakes
ruclips.net/video/n_iCCj4YVGE/видео.html
I'm confused so the rear breaks are pads and drums pads
Yes the rear shoes (drums) are for your emergency brake . The actual braking is the done buy the rotor and brake pads.
what type of grease do you put on the ends of the pad? do i use the supplied lube or is that just for the pins?
You can use the same lube that's for the pins, don't go crazy with it. You don't want to lube to get on the pads or rotor
Question bro, What does the rotor plug actually do that rubber piece ??
Stops water and debris from getting in
The mech a nic
Ightt thanks 👌🏼
Watching you with this file lmao you have a good concept but you
Should never say your a mechanic I watch to see how many vids are posted b4 I post a video of the same work. Another pointer you should use never seize not brake parts grease debris stick more to grease your doing a good job just try to use a file in 1 direction and try to be better informed not to say your way is wrong but their are more ways to be easier. Good luck in the future
I replace my break pads in my g37 but smoke and burn smell was grinding when driving and squealing what did I do wrong?
Take it apart asap ! and find out what you did wrong
I did, I stop the grinding and squealing but I still smell the burn now I see black spot on the rims
are the pads supposed to be hard to move?
No, they should move freely . Are you sure you followed my video? Are you sure the pads arent in backwards?
The mech a nic yeah but the inner pad are pretty hard to move
do you have front brake video? 2015 altima
I'll be making one soon
anybody notice this car got pads and shoe brakes on rear I never seen both like that on rear
The brakes shoes are for the emergency brake only
@@themechanic6117 actually it is the PARKING BRAKE not an emergency brake
Thx bro
You're welcome, thanks for watching
No lube on the ears of the pads?
Thats not necessary.it just collects dirt
why did you put 18 when you say it only goes to 15
The body style changed but the brakes are exactly the same same.even in newer Altimas
Is the rear brakes pretty much the same as the front?
For the most part...yes.
Thank you. I plan to help a friend out with a 15 Altima
There will be drum brakes inside the rotor I believe but thats for the emergency brakes. You shouldn't have to really touch that at all
The mech a nic okay so they stay attached on their own?
Yes, unless you're adjustable your emergency brakes you should have to touch them. At that point it's pretty much like doing the front brakes
Thank you for replacing the hardware. I've seen a few of these where these dudes are like, "oh yeah the existing hardware here looks fine, we'll just brush some of the shit off them with a wire brush!" Uhhhhh no. If you're going to do the job, at least do it right. Replace the f'n hardware people. Yeah, it's gonna cost you more money to get it, but, wouldn't you rather spend a little extra for new hardware as opposed to having that flimsy ass shit fail on you later while you're trying to stop a moving vehicle from 65 mph? Come the hell on...
Yes I agree. I always prefer new hardware. Bugs me when people bring me just pads to slap on their car.
Will this work on a 2016?
It should be very similar
U didn't do the adjustments on the parking brake. Nothing just replacing the brake pads only 😂😢
Aye bro I have a few questions
??
The mech a nic what lubricants did you use
Thanks for the video. I can't trust any mechanic cause they always rip people off. I been trying to do my own pads and rotors for a while now. But I have none of those tools. Can you please list the tools for me. What are there proper names , so I can purchase it . Thanks
David D well you should have a floor jack and a tire iron to remove the wheel.hopefully you have a set in the trunk. Beyond that a basic ratchet set should let you get the job done. So get a 3/8 ratching and make sure it has all the socket sizes listed in the video . 19 mm wrench, wire brush for cleaning things.hammer, flat head screw driver.You can use a wire or string to hold the caliper up. Some caliper grease and brake parts cleaner.
Ok i hate drums the springs spinning stuff to much for me I would not just want to do the pads and leave my shoes old but can't do the shoe stuff mechanic time there
If you never use the emergency brake/parking brake then you really don't have to worry about the drum aspect.