Great video, good advice. Like you I moved up to a larger Arbor to get depth. Couple tips, return spring on top is nice to have. Easy too just need the right spring and a clamp on stop block top,of the Ram . McMaster Carr on line has springs many sized and rates. Your plastic base advice is good too, I use about anything but real source is the local industrial plastics supplier. Delrin brand plastic , they sell cut off scraps.
Thanks for adding to the post. There are a lot of ways to upgrade a kit. I have delrin tooling for other equipment I have but haven’t made adapters for use in my arbor press yet. One of these days…
I bought a similar arbor press a few years ago and took the ram out and milled a tooth off so at the top of its throw I can reset the ram handle to exactly where it most effectively engages with the control arm for maximum pressure on the intended work. I have a piece of tubing I use to extend the length of the handle to increase the leverage. It's been extremely effective in its use. I quickly discovered the original handle was soft steel and replaced it with a heat treated hardened axle from a lawn tractor that was also 3/4 inch in diameter and doesn't bend. This made a very cheap press into a strong and reliable machine. My stand is a tripod, two legs in front with a footprint much wider than the foot of the press itself. I've never considered using it to form a fender but I can see how useful it is and I will make many more "nose pieces and different anvils to press against. I can see the usefulness of rubber anvils to stretch and shrink to form fenders. I can also see its potential for things such as fuel and oil tank forming. Thanks for extending my horizons.
It’s very easy to make a motorcycle fender with an arbor press. Similar shapes, with only a comparable curve along one edge (think motorcycle fender split in half) are also easy to do. Give it a try.
@@carolinasculpturestudio I will indeed. I've learned a great deal about sheet metal in the past year, never worked with it much in the past. "Make it Kustom" has greatly broadened my perspective and you've substantially added to my respect.
@@andrewwhite4348 With the ram all the way up, the bottom tooth on the ram gets milled off so the pinion can slip by to position of the handle. I believe it was only one but might've been two, I did it over twenty years ago. I'll take a look in my shop tomorrow if you like.
Check with some fabricator/welding shops near you and ask where they get theirs. I am fortunate to have 2-3 local metal sales businesses nearby. As far as price, it’s good to shop around. I haven’t bought any new sheet aluminum or crs recently. If I had to purchase a new 4x8 sheet 3003 .063, I would expect price would be at least $200-$250 per sheet. It’s not cheap like it used to be.
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What an eye opener for a tool I never thought of using for custom metal shaping ! More accurate then what I can do with a hammer.
It’s the best of both worlds. The more I use an arbor press, the more accurate and effective my swung hammer work becomes. Have fun!
Brilliantly simple! Thanks for posting Clint, you have convinced me to buy a press.
Give it a try, Charlie. I bet you’ll like it a lot. Those Land Rover panels might be easier to shape than we’ve thought…!
Old School !! lol Been doing this stuff for over 50 YEARS !! : )) Cheers !
Great video, I would like to see more of this type content. thanks for post this
You’re welcome. I hope it helps!
Thank you for the ideas. 👍👍
You’re very welcome- hope it helps!
Great video, good advice. Like you I moved up to a larger Arbor to get depth. Couple tips, return spring on top is nice to have. Easy too just need the right spring and a clamp on stop block top,of the Ram . McMaster Carr on line has springs many sized and rates. Your plastic base advice is good too, I use about anything but real source is the local industrial plastics supplier. Delrin brand plastic , they sell cut off scraps.
Thanks for adding to the post. There are a lot of ways to upgrade a kit. I have delrin tooling for other equipment I have but haven’t made adapters for use in my arbor press yet. One of these days…
I bought a similar arbor press a few years ago and took the ram out and milled a tooth off so at the top of its throw I can reset the ram handle to exactly where it most effectively engages with the control arm for maximum pressure on the intended work. I have a piece of tubing I use to extend the length of the handle to increase the leverage. It's been extremely effective in its use. I quickly discovered the original handle was soft steel and replaced it with a heat treated hardened axle from a lawn tractor that was also 3/4 inch in diameter and doesn't bend. This made a very cheap press into a strong and reliable machine. My stand is a tripod, two legs in front with a footprint much wider than the foot of the press itself. I've never considered using it to form a fender but I can see how useful it is and I will make many more "nose pieces and different anvils to press against. I can see the usefulness of rubber anvils to stretch and shrink to form fenders. I can also see its potential for things such as fuel and oil tank forming. Thanks for extending my horizons.
It’s very easy to make a motorcycle fender with an arbor press. Similar shapes, with only a comparable curve along one edge (think motorcycle fender split in half) are also easy to do. Give it a try.
@@carolinasculpturestudio I will indeed. I've learned a great deal about sheet metal in the past year, never worked with it much in the past. "Make it Kustom" has greatly broadened my perspective and you've substantially added to my respect.
What tooth gets milled off? Sorry I’m having difficulty visualizing what you’re describing
@@andrewwhite4348 With the ram all the way up, the bottom tooth on the ram gets milled off so the pinion can slip by to position of the handle. I believe it was only one but might've been two, I did it over twenty years ago. I'll take a look in my shop tomorrow if you like.
@@andrewwhite4348 I just walked out to my shop, it's the bottom two teeth I milled off. I got a picture if you want.
Rubber pucks of various durometers are also very useful.
I use hockey pucks. You can't beat the price
well done
Thanks!
Where can I find a good price on sheet aluminum? You mentioned it having plastic over it so sometimes at least, you must not be working with scrap.
Check with some fabricator/welding shops near you and ask where they get theirs. I am fortunate to have 2-3 local metal sales businesses nearby. As far as price, it’s good to shop around. I haven’t bought any new sheet aluminum or crs recently. If I had to purchase a new 4x8 sheet 3003 .063, I would expect price would be at least $200-$250 per sheet. It’s not cheap like it used to be.
@@motovecchio Thank you.
Thank you sir
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching.
Great video!!!!
Where did you say you could buy the tooling?
imperialwheelingmachines.com/collections/metal-shaping-fabrication-hand-tools/products/arbor-press-metal-shaping-fabrication-tool-set
Thank you!!!!
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