Great vid. I watched it to refresh my memory. I like the 2x4 usage, especially on the drive belt. Per the manual I disengage the trans by pulling the level in the back by the weights before pushing the tractor. Don't know if it makes a difference. I also wear mechanics gloves to save the fingers. Next jack up the back of the tractor and put on the tire chains and check the fluid levels and tire pressures. The x540 with the 47 inch blower kicks butt. I blew out the whole cul-de-sac one time. LOL. I also keep spare shear pins for the augar. I always seem to shear one or two during the winter. Good job.
GREAT video and informative narrative. Kudos to your videographer with the proper zooms, framing and positioning to correlate with your narrative! Well done.
Not been able to find one explanation as to how the L lock & spring is assembled (lower rear of blower). I placed spring so the default position was applying pressure on L pin lock so it is engaged.
I think that is correct. It is a pain in the butt to load the springs but I put almost the whole spring load behind the pin. The default should be pins engaged. You pull the L lock back and engage the pins with the grooves in the hitch when you want pins disengaged.
Can you send some pics close up of how the rock shaft and those brackets are connected to the machine. i think i have a bracket on backwards and possibly the outer bearing on backwards. Thanks!
Does the black, short arm for hydraulics need to be in a front or back position before attaching the linkage? I followed your steps, but when I lift the "mower deck" handle, the snowblower will not raise. I checked the fluid. Puzzled here. Thank you for your time. Gary
Likely you had it in the correct position. It should be forward, which represents the hydraulics being in the 'lower' position .... as if the mower was lowered to the lowest cutting position (using this as an example only as your mower is not attached at this point). Check the rod that you just connected to the short arm. If the clevises are set to far apart from each other, then it will not lift properly. Although you should still see 'some movement'. Measuring the distance between the clevis pins (centerline pin to centerline pin) on my tie rod it measures 20 1/2 inches. Let me know if that's not the problem. Also, and I'm thinking this is more likely your issue, check to make sure you've engaged the lower pin properly at the blower ... see my video at the 7:20 when I engage this pin. Good luck!
Regarding the 'lower pin' engagement, check with your finger behind the plate that the pin engages through, making sure that it has indeed pushed through the hole.
It was the "inner" lift rod underneath the tractor. The pin & cotter was missing from the ear of the rockshaft. The inner rod was just resting on the brake rod. Weird, but I have read this occurred to someone else as well. Thank you!
really hoping you gwizzar4 or Alberta Al can help me with my question regarding lift rods. My operators manual says there is a short inner lifting rod and a long outer lifting rod. All videos I see online only show the long outer lifting rod being hooked up. Can one of you clarify why? Thanks
These blowers are designed to have about 4" of clearance when in the upmost position. If you raise the blower much higher, than you risk the drive belt slipping off of the pulleys. Your best option to adjust the max height is to disconnect the blower, and adjust the clevises on the round link bar. Moving the closer to each other will increase the height. However, what's more important is the height of the blower in the lowest position. I have a gravel driveway, so I set the skid shoes so that the blower is 1/2" off the ground. Then I adjust the mower deck height control knob so that the blower just lightly touches the ground, not banging on the ground when lowering the blower. You can only adjust the mower deck height control knob when the engine is running AND the hydraulics have been lifted in the upmost position. Hope that helps. Let me know how it goes, or if you come up with a different solution.
Great vid. I watched it to refresh my memory. I like the 2x4 usage, especially on the drive belt. Per the manual I disengage the trans by pulling the level in the back by the weights before pushing the tractor. Don't know if it makes a difference. I also wear mechanics gloves to save the fingers. Next jack up the back of the tractor and put on the tire chains and check the fluid levels and tire pressures. The x540 with the 47 inch blower kicks butt. I blew out the whole cul-de-sac one time. LOL. I also keep spare shear pins for the augar. I always seem to shear one or two during the winter. Good job.
Thanks guys! Glad you found the video useful. The 2x4 makes the belt installation much easier.
GREAT video and informative narrative. Kudos to your videographer with the proper zooms, framing and positioning to correlate with your narrative! Well done.
Well done, thanks for not playing music in the background.
You are a GOD! The only problem is the attachment won't raise. I checked fluid. It just won't go up...
Thanks Al, another Great informational Video
Absolutely perfect video my friend! Only thing I’m not sure of is the roughriders sweater...go Winnipeg!! Haha thanks for the much needed help!
Glad you found it useful. Go Riders :)
Great video. Thanks very much
Thanks for the info. Nice job.
Not been able to find one explanation as to how the L lock & spring is assembled (lower rear of blower). I placed spring so the default position was applying pressure on L pin lock so it is engaged.
I think that is correct. It is a pain in the butt to load the springs but I put almost the whole spring load behind the pin. The default should be pins engaged. You pull the L lock back and engage the pins with the grooves in the hitch when you want pins disengaged.
My J.D.590 is very similar without the black painted steel brackets (holding the tranny) in-board of the "box-like rear frame.
great instructions
Can you send some pics close up of how the rock shaft and those brackets are connected to the machine. i think i have a bracket on backwards and possibly the outer bearing on backwards. Thanks!
Very helpful video....everything well explained at the correct pace. What is the model # of the snowblower unit that fits your X540?
Thanks! Model #47 SNOWBLOWER.
Does the black, short arm for hydraulics need to be in a front or back position before attaching the linkage? I followed your steps, but when I lift the "mower deck" handle, the snowblower will not raise. I checked the fluid. Puzzled here. Thank you for your time. Gary
Likely you had it in the correct position. It should be forward, which represents the hydraulics being in the 'lower' position .... as if the mower was lowered to the lowest cutting position (using this as an example only as your mower is not attached at this point). Check the rod that you just connected to the short arm. If the clevises are set to far apart from each other, then it will not lift properly. Although you should still see 'some movement'. Measuring the distance between the clevis pins (centerline pin to centerline pin) on my tie rod it measures 20 1/2 inches. Let me know if that's not the problem. Also, and I'm thinking this is more likely your issue, check to make sure you've engaged the lower pin properly at the blower ... see my video at the 7:20 when I engage this pin. Good luck!
Regarding the 'lower pin' engagement, check with your finger behind the plate that the pin engages through, making sure that it has indeed pushed through the hole.
It was the "inner" lift rod underneath the tractor. The pin & cotter was missing from the ear of the rockshaft. The inner rod was just resting on the brake rod. Weird, but I have read this occurred to someone else as well. Thank you!
really hoping you gwizzar4 or Alberta Al can help me with my question regarding lift rods. My operators manual says there is a short inner lifting rod and a long outer lifting rod. All videos I see online only show the long outer lifting rod being hooked up. Can one of you clarify why? Thanks
I have the same tractor and snow blower attachment. Do you have any suggestions on modifying the hydraulic lift for more ground clearance? Thank You.
These blowers are designed to have about 4" of clearance when in the upmost position. If you raise the blower much higher, than you risk the drive belt slipping off of the pulleys. Your best option to adjust the max height is to disconnect the blower, and adjust the clevises on the round link bar. Moving the closer to each other will increase the height. However, what's more important is the height of the blower in the lowest position. I have a gravel driveway, so I set the skid shoes so that the blower is 1/2" off the ground. Then I adjust the mower deck height control knob so that the blower just lightly touches the ground, not banging on the ground when lowering the blower. You can only adjust the mower deck height control knob when the engine is running AND the hydraulics have been lifted in the upmost position. Hope that helps. Let me know how it goes, or if you come up with a different solution.