Thanks for this video, it's really informative. I had a question about the resist and antique.. If you put the resist on and then put on the antique, does the resist not stop the antique from penetrating through to the leather?
Hi, thanks for that informative vid. Do you ever lightly dampen the leather surface before dying it? I noticed my dying technique on a belt was a bit uneven when applied to a dry surface, but the bend of the belt was still damp and the dye covered much more evenly on this section. What are your thoughts & experience dying leather when its damp? Thank you
I make sure my belts are as dry as they can be. It could depend on what dye you use but I only use fiebings pro dye which is oil based, typically it will be even after 2-3 coats. Sorry for the late response but hope that helps!
I have been having trouble with the resist smearing the antique even after drying for a whole day. It has ruined projects several times. Any idea why this might be happening?
There are a lot of different products out there to use instead. Tan-kote being one of them that I currently use but it’s worth doing a little bit of experimenting on your own to see what you like.
What’s going on . Love your videos . Just have a question . I’ve been making belts . After dyeing and antiquing I use the fiebings spray saddle lac . I come back after it’s dry and the saddle lac just starts to peel off . Frustrating. Thank you for your time .
Yeah with saddle lac you have to make sure not to put too much on otherwise it will do that. Especially if it is going on somewhere that bends. I’m looking to make an updated version of this video in the near future
@@scootr777 it might be. right now after antique I use a layer of tan kote and then seal it off with Neat-lac. I’ve never used resoline but it should work pretty well
Depends on the paint you’re using but I usually do after the oil before the resist. And then also depending on the resist it might take off some paint so then touch it up before the final spray
I need your help in this matter. I got a leather sap made out of horse hide, which originally was dyed with fiebings oil walnut, and finished with resolene. Unfortunately it got a bad scratch so I asked someone to restore it for me. This person used fiebings deglazer, same oil dye colour walnut and finish it with resolene neutral, but unfortunately it didn't have the expected colour. Is there any way or change to strip of the second dye and re dye it again so it will be as close to the initial colour. First image is the original colour, the one on the scale, second one is the one I'm not happy with the colour. Thank you for your help in this matter. Chris
Sorry for the late response I’m just now seeing this. I don’t really have a set in stone time for oil. Normally I’ll just put it on before going to bed or last thing of the day and then come back to it first thing the next day and then see if I want to put more on but if you’re in a hurry to finish it I’d at least wait like 30 minutes. Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any further questions!
Hi, how do I restore this kind of leather? I bought a thrifted belt, the back of the belt has small cracks and the sides were slightly worn out and faded. What products can I use?
Thanks for this video, it's really informative. I had a question about the resist and antique.. If you put the resist on and then put on the antique, does the resist not stop the antique from penetrating through to the leather?
Yes, you don’t want the antique to penetrate the leather
amazing work you do. cheers from new zealand
I appreciate it! Thanks for the support!
Hi, thanks for that informative vid. Do you ever lightly dampen the leather surface before dying it? I noticed my dying technique on a belt was a bit uneven when applied to a dry surface, but the bend of the belt was still damp and the dye covered much more evenly on this section. What are your thoughts & experience dying leather when its damp? Thank you
I make sure my belts are as dry as they can be. It could depend on what dye you use but I only use fiebings pro dye which is oil based, typically it will be even after 2-3 coats. Sorry for the late response but hope that helps!
I have been having trouble with the resist smearing the antique even after drying for a whole day. It has ruined projects several times. Any idea why this might be happening?
What are you using for a resist
@@jakeufford7356 resolene
@@jakeufford7356 resolene
@@jakeufford7356 I am using resolene
I love your videos
Thank you for watching!
Can you tell me where to get a good tooling kit?
When I first started out I got a kit from Tandy leather that I was happy with
Love this! Super educational for a novice like myself - thank you.
What's an alternative to neat lac? Is it necessary?
There are a lot of different products out there to use instead. Tan-kote being one of them that I currently use but it’s worth doing a little bit of experimenting on your own to see what you like.
What’s going on . Love your videos . Just have a question . I’ve been making belts . After dyeing and antiquing I use the fiebings spray saddle lac . I come back after it’s dry and the saddle lac just starts to peel off . Frustrating. Thank you for your time .
Yeah with saddle lac you have to make sure not to put too much on otherwise it will do that. Especially if it is going on somewhere that bends. I’m looking to make an updated version of this video in the near future
You think bag Kote or resoline is better for belts ?
@@scootr777 it might be. right now after antique I use a layer of tan kote and then seal it off with Neat-lac. I’ve never used resoline but it should work pretty well
If you were to color it , would the paint go before the dying ?
Depends on the paint you’re using but I usually do after the oil before the resist. And then also depending on the resist it might take off some paint so then touch it up before the final spray
I’d recommend trying it out on a piece of scrap leather before going to a project though
you need to watch Don Gonzales Light Oil and Antique finish video
I need your help in this matter.
I got a leather sap made out of horse hide, which originally was dyed with fiebings oil walnut, and finished with resolene. Unfortunately it got a bad scratch so I asked someone to restore it for me. This person used fiebings deglazer, same oil dye colour walnut and finish it with resolene neutral, but unfortunately it didn't have the expected colour.
Is there any way or change to strip of the second dye and re dye it again so it will be as close to the initial colour.
First image is the original colour, the one on the scale, second one is the one I'm not happy with the colour.
Thank you for your help in this matter.
Chris
Excelente maestro....
How long do you wait for the neatsfoot oil to dry
Sorry for the late response I’m just now seeing this. I don’t really have a set in stone time for oil. Normally I’ll just put it on before going to bed or last thing of the day and then come back to it first thing the next day and then see if I want to put more on but if you’re in a hurry to finish it I’d at least wait like 30 minutes. Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any further questions!
Hi, how do I restore this kind of leather? I bought a thrifted belt, the back of the belt has small cracks and the sides were slightly worn out and faded. What products can I use?
I’m not too sure of any way to restore something that is cracked, but I don’t do a whole lot of repairs. I mainly just build things new
Last time I checked, Tandy had rabbits fur for sale and called it sheepskin. In my local Tandy's anyway..