How to Fix an Amana Dryer that Won't Heat - Also Works for Kenmore, Maytag, Whirlpool and More!
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- Опубликовано: 12 фев 2020
- If your dryer sounds like its running, but your clothes won't get dry quickly (takes 2+ loads) or at all, here are some things you can look at to see if its an easy fix. You only need 3 parts to fix most common dryers and save yourself some big money.
The main things we are dealing with in this video include:
- Amana Dryer Heating Element
- Amana Dryer Not Heating
- Amana Dryer Thermal Fuse
- Amana Dryer No Heat
Although this video focuses mainly on one style of electric (220v) dryer, the concepts are the same for many brands and models.
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my recommendation is to buy a small parts kit (not from whirlpool because they charge $200) for $20 and just to replace them all instead of wasting time diagnosing. Very good advice for someone that doesn't want to go buy a continuity meter.
Please, Where can I find this kit? Thx
@@rosethecopycat Amazon. They have different part numbers for the same product btw because every brand is doing their own fake part number
Would you happen to have the link to this kit? I just received the part I thought was bad and I still have no heat 😢
Does it really cost $20? And is there really a kit?
@@joaquinsuarez6090 amazon or ebay
i have seen at least 20 of "fix your dryer" videos but this one hands down is the best and most complete step by step on how to really fix your dryer.
You just saved me a $100 call-out fee! I live deep in the woods and service repairmen typically charge a huge fee just to show up at my home. By watching your video I was able to diagnose the problem with my dryer and have ordered the necessary parts. Looking forward to having a working dryer again! Thank you!!!!
Guys like this are a lifesaver! His videos and some comments walk me through the whole process of replacing my dryers heating elements and some other small parts. The repairs cost me less than $40, which beats the price of a new dryer!
Great video! Thanks, was able to fix my Amana dryer for less than $19 following your video. In my case it was the fuse, the guy at the appliance parts store took one look, and reached under that counter and pulled one out. He said he sells around 100 of those a month. Took the ducting off, cleaned out the accumulated lint in the duct, and around the fan, checked everything over, re-assembled and back in business.
Sir I have never commented on RUclips, however this is the best/ most informative/ no fat or filler video that I have seen in years. Thank you for making this whole task take 20 min tops. You are the man!
Thanks! The crazy thing is that tech-ing these style dryers once you know the basics is like... a 5-minute job, tops, with a drill gun (vs a screwdriver) and a multimeter. Very simple and easy IF you know what you're doing. If you don't know what you're doing, you can throw a lot of money into fixing the wrong thing.
Great video. I was able to use your tips to locate the damaged parts and less than $20.00 later I have a working dryer. Since the parts were so reasonable I ended up ordering a kit and replaced the fuses and thermometer.
I fixed my dryer after watching y0ur video. Thermal fuse was defective. Bought a new one on ebay for $6.50 delivered. Dryer works great again.
You would really think that in a $600 appliance mostly consisting of sheet metal and cheap plastic rollers they could have provided a diagnostic feature like they did in the exact same series of washers. Especially given the cheapness of the plastic drum rollers and other parts that are guaranteed to fail. I suppose that would cut into their profit margin too much though. That being said, thank you for the detailed explanation. It appears very helpful.
great video on how to diagnose all for the parts. After a few minutes, I was able to determine which parts I needed, ordered my parts on Amazon on Friday and they arrived on Saturday. Total cost was $10! Thank you for the help.
It was my timer. I took it a part, looked at it, and put it back together and thought I check it again because it didn’t work before. IT WORKED, SO PUT IT TOGETHER AND PUT IT BACK IN PLACE AND IT STILL WORKS!!!
Thanks for your video!!
Woo hoo! Glad to hear its fixed now!
Excellent instruction. My problem was the timer and I followed your timer repair video to get up and running free of charge. Keep up the great work.
Awesome! Usually the timer fix is a stopgap, but I've had it work for 9+ months according to customers. I'd really like to do a total rebuild on the contact pads, but I haven't found a good supply yet.
@@bensappliancesandjunk I know right? If you could find a supply of those contacts it you’d be 1/2 way there. Have you ever tried ripping them out from an old unit? Do they? Maybe heat gun?
Thank you!!!! This was incredibly helpful! Wish I would have found your video HOURS ago when I first started trying to find why my dryer isn't heating. Would have saved me so much time. Appreciate your help!
Glad it helped! My channel is going to get monetized shortly which may help improve the search results for these kinds of answers. Hope you get yours up and running soon!
K.
@@bensappliancesandjunk hey can you send the video for the timer to me??
Thanks to this video I just repaired my old Amana dryer by replacing the cycling thermostat and saved several hundred dollars!
Best ever troubleshoot video I have seen uptil now. Great work 5 stars ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
my dryer is only getting a little warm, found the cycling tstat purple wires have 1.7k - ordered new one, this is amazing information, thank you!
Thank you so much for this video. It did diagnose my issues 3 days ago. I was able to order my Heating Element and replaced it today. The dryer is working well now. Thank you
Well, like your name says "To God be all the glory " have a blessed day
@@bensappliancesandjunk Thank you. Have a blessed day as well.
@@togodbealltheglory362 where did you order it from?
Dude, I have that exact dryer and it wasn't heating. Your instructions were spot on. Found the bad part but, kit was only 25 bucks on Amazon just like you pointed out to another poster so, I went ahead and replaced all of it anyway. Working perfectly! Thanks man!
What was your issue? I’m having the same problem
This is one of the best instructional videos Ive seen on youtube. Great work. Thank you.
Wow, thanks!
Very informative. My Amana dryer just buzzes when I push to start. This happened yesterday. I've had the unit for 5 years.
Fantastic breakdown sir! Taking it step by step I followed along and was able to diagnose my time and the thermostat need replacing. Thanks for taking the time! Saves us mechanically inclined folks hundreds.
Thank you for the information, i diagnosed and ordered the part i needed. Hopefully tomorrow i can have it functional.
Update
Part came and fixed my issue. Thank you for the information I greatly appreciate it
Another way to test the cycling thermostat and element thermostat is to remove them and shake then next to your ear. If it sounds like a high pitch rattle, it is usually good. If it has a dull rattle sound it probably has a burnt contact inside. It helps to have a good thermostat to rattle to hear what it should sound like.
Yes sir this was SUPER informative and vivid details with the visual part of it all
Thanks
Thanks to this video… I was able to figure out the problem in our dryer and changed the heating element…
Just bought a new dryer to replace my old one that had the same issue... no heat!
Surprise, my new dryer has this same problem!!!
I'm on a business trip, but will be ordering one of your kits from your site to replace all of the sensors (you have some fantastic pricing btw).
So, thank you! ;-)
Thank you sir. Found I have a bad cycling t-stat because of this. Much appreciate the time you did to put this together!
Glad you found the culprit!
Your hands were covering the area you tested for the thermostat. The pic isn’t clear either.
Great video, I am troubleshooting the exact model you have here. Or at least one that looks exactly like it!
TY so much for a great video!. I was able to solve my dryer problem by checking all the components in your video and found them to be working fine. My problem actually was the thermal fuse that went due to a clogged filter screen, creating an overheating situation and thus blowing the thermal fuse. I have told my tenant to clean the screen after each use going forward. Thanks Again.
Awesome! I am so glad this helped you!
I wonder if that is my problem as well.. did you have to replace the blue wires?
@@alexkashar1022 Hi Alex - Sorry for the late reply - No, I only needed to replace the thermal fuse. Armand
Great video! Very thorough and helpful! It was my power that had the issue. My almighty electician hit something when repairing my ac unit breaker. I was only getting one side at 120. Thank you!!
I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts?
Please advise how you fix yours.
Thank you! I fixed my dryer following your instructions
Thank you Ben! We have an Amana dryer that my girlfriend was ready to take a loan to replace. Your video helped us diagnose that it was a cheap fix!
Watch your video, thank you very much. I was able to fix mine. Amazon sells the multi meter that you suggested. I have one now. Thanks again.
Dude, your video helped me resolve a long standing problem. I am in your debt. Gracias!
Glad it helped
This is my exact dryer thats running but not heating. I have a feeling its the thermal fuse! Thanks for the video I am going to use it later to try to figure it out
Thank you for the video!! One question, what is it likely to be, if the dryer heats up most of the time. Sometimes it won't heat up at all. It's like it has a mind of its own. Any input would be greatly appreciated
I checked my thema fuse but my timer stays on one setting could that be it i dont have a multimeter
Great job Ben! Found a burned out heating coil and the 4” exhaust had a HUGElargemous Lint Bunny stuffed into it. Tells me that the thermal high-limit switch was malfunctioning as well - although it ohmed out just fine. The whole 9 yards with all heating related components was all of $25 on Amazon.
Thx man! All fixed and running in less than an hour, free of charge!
Great to hear!
I followed your video step by step, and all the components were just fine, and I still have problems with the automatic low heat selection, I checked the 3 on the left for continuity as you pointed in your video and it is fine too... I am wondering if I have to check on the other 3 connectors on the right placing the selector in the automatic low where you didn't check on the video...?
You are absolutely amazing! I wish there were more people like you out there on RUclips doing these (high) quality instructional videos! You are the best!
I have this same dryer but it gets hot but takes 4 or 5 cycles to dry clothes. Any suggestions thank you. The vent isn't clogged
Your video saved me from buying a new dryer!!! Thanks!👍👍
Thank you so much this helped me fix my dryer thank you
A couple comments. First, I really was helped by this video. I was able to easily diagnose my dryer’s problem. Video was clear and actually pointed the right way. Clear explanations. Second, your clarifying which brands/models you are showing us (dryers with this configuration of lint filter) I thought of as just ‘nice’ until I watched someone else’s video for how to actually replace the heater element. That other video, even though it said it applied to what I had, was a totally different dryer. Your simple clarification is much more appreciated now. And third, perhaps a closer, different angle view of the thermostat and heater connections would be nice so I could be more certain I was checking the correct terminals.
I didn't have the camera setup to do it back then. I was using a static camera on a pole that only went up and down. I've since upgraded to a boom mic holder that allows me to position the camera inside whatever I'm filming - I agree with you, and it was a constant fight finding good angles that I could work with but also film with too (because honestly, doing the work and filming it are painfully difficult to do both). But I appreciate the comment and plan to follow up with another lint-top dryer from better angles. I did this with some washers and it went over well, so its definitely on the "To do list"!
Thank you for a great helpful video. Also really appreciate the links to the correct parts. I hope your affiliate links help you get by in this economy!
Hey I have this same dryer. It was working then all of a sudden I heard a noise and saw a spark then it cut off. When I unplugged it and looked at the back one of the screws were black and a little loose. Does that mean I'll need to replace my terminal block and all the wires? If so where would I start to even purchase them
Such a clean and concise video. Thank you so much man this is awesome.
I have this exact model Amana. I checked everything and got continuity to all of them including abc of timer.. all except for the low temp (purple wires) has no continuity and cant get an ohm reading on them either. But red wires for hi temp does. And I have no heat on hi or low. Would that mean thermostat is bad? Thanks!
Hi! I have a question. When you are testing the timer on the dryer do you start the machine or not? Also when you diagnose the all the elements is the dryer plug on electricity? Cause in the beginning of the video the machine wasn't plugged in. Thank you.
I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts?
Please advise.
Hey if timer isn’t mechanically clicking down anymore like it just stays on does that mean it is faulty also getting no heat
Thank You! It was my timer. Great job breaking everything down in great detail👍
On one end I'm glad its the timer, but on the other, that one tends to be the most expensive to fix. I do have a video on repairing that style timer on my channel - if you want to go the route of sanding the contacts down and fixing it.
Thank you for the excellent video. I have the same model, and I tested everything you suggested in the video other than the loose wires thing at the end ( I did not understand that part well). Everything looks fine, and the values are good, as you suggested. My drier still won’t dry. What could be the problem? I appreciate your help!
Also, I had only one spade on the heating element. For whatever reason, there is a place, but I don't see the wire also. Also, the terminal showed continuity. It is the one towards the machine side. My drier was working fine, but it stopped working when I moved to a different house.
My drier stop heating,it blows room temperature air,I replaced the heating element and the cycling thermostat and still no hot air,any suggestions? It's an amana similar to the one in this video,the other 2 thermostat looking part's beep when doing continuity test.
Hey I’m having this problem with my dryer it’s not heating just started yesterday and my nob won’t move when I start it. Need help on the nob part please I can’t find your video. On how to fix the nob.
I have a question about the timer I took it out and cleaned terminals ...I'm getting continuity only from b and c not and c
My dryer is only not working on the low heat setting. It DOES work on the high heat setting. I DID need to clean out the vent tube and have done that. Does it sound like I only need the low heat fuse? (If I can skip all the other steps it would save me a ton of time!)
I replaced all the parts with the kit from Amazon. I noticed my heating element was burnt out, after replacing all 5 pieces my deyer is still cutting off after a few minutes and smells as if something is burning. Do you have any idea why?
When testing the ground of the sensors to the heating element housing if I get beeping then the element needs replace right?
Very efficient video production - THANKS! I went through all your component tests on my AMANA NED4655EW1. All tested good. No corrosion or loose connections observed. The dryer turns ON on every cycle normally. It cycles through and dries each load (all cycle options). The heat shuts off at the end of cycle, BUT.... the dryer continues to run forever. Is there something in the TIMER /Controller that is not allowing the TIMER to completely cycle to "OFF" ? Thanks for any advice.
My whirlpool dryer has a dedicated temperature knob. I tested all of the parts shown in the video and everything is working correctly. Is there a way to test the temperature knob?
Excellent Resource & easy to follow.
I dropped glove down lint filter I figured it would drop down somewhere I turned it on and it made sound now will not work I took back off and I didn't know where to go to look now do u have help video for something like this
Helped me figure out my problem for my dryer thank
You🙏🏻🙏🏻
Great video I figured mine to be the hi level sensor thingy it didn’t have any reading at all but the thermostat read around 9
Great!
This was helpful and easy to follow. I might suggest unplugging the unit before taking it apart. I have followed all of your steps and everything works. I'm looking for loose wires but i'm not finding anything. This is and amana model AED 4675yq0. Any additional input would be appreciated.
I believe I know what the problem is. I'm not an expert nor an electrician. I used the conductivity test on the volt ohm meter sets to audible on the thermal fuse. It gave audible tone so I thought the thermal fuse was properly functioning. A different website suggested bypassing the thermal fuse and clamping the leads together that go to the thermal fuse, plugging in the dryer and starting it. I did that and I immediately received heat. That leads me to conclude that even though the thermal fuse is conducting electricity (I got an audible tone) it is not providing proper resistance. Waiting to install the thermal fuse which I ordered.
I tried using these tips to fix my dryer but after replacing every part and checking the timer, heat seems to only happen when i have my timer on high 40min and nothing else works. Any suggestions?
What you are doing is a genuine public service. Thank you!
Very helpful. Still not heating. Uhhg. On this model, I heard the c switch or something on the motor could be bad if all other components test good including the timer.
Hi Amanda, you got continuity between A and C on high heat? And you verified you're getting 230v or around that at the terminal block on dryer?
I see what looks like a short red jumper wire hooked to the heating element thermostat. I don't have this wire, but only the red that connects to the top of the thermostat, the red that goes to the element terminal closest to you, and the orange that goes to the other, smaller thermostat terminal underneath that also connects to the other, larger element terminal, which is unused. Maybe your model is slightly different than mine. The thermostat part# is 3977767.
Also, when replacing the cycling thermostat, the purple wires are interchangeable. But which terminal is which for the red and red/white wires? My old part has an "X" engraved by one of the terminals and my new one, a pair of small circles.
Great walk through. Just determined it was the cycling thermostat for our Amana ned4600yq1
Nice work! I am glad it was a cheap part. I don't see too many of the cycling thermostats go bad. Its usually the components on the heating element.
10:08
When testing and handling the spades of the heating elements etc, should the dryer be unplugged?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world
My whirlpool wed5600sq0 dryer has no heat, and never appeared to have low heat.
All of my tests come within spec.
Hi volt block- 119,119, 238v
Stat- continuity
Element- continuity, 9ohm, no contact on housing.
Cycling stat- red, continuity, purple, 7.19 ohm
High limit cutoff- continuity
Timer- all connections as depicted in the diagram.
Thermal fuse continuity.
Cycled the breaker... Prayed, slept on it. Still no heat.
Can you help me diagnose this?
Thank you ! Saved me a lot of money and a very happy spouse.
Hi brother, thank you for this video. I followed all the steps and the only thing that strayed away from a perfect test of all working elements was during the power check. I got 120 from the positive and negative terminal when attached to Neutral but nothing from positive negative with leads attached to eachother and no Neutral. I did just have my Main panel upgraded for a solar installation. is it possible this oddity is from a miss on the main pannel upgrade? Do you have any advice on this?
I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts?
Please advise how you fix your issue.
Turns out mine was the plug that had a small curotion amount . sanded it off and started heating again thanks 👍
Replaced thermal fuse, cycling thermostat and thermostat. Getting ready to replace the heating element and the hi limit cutoff
So thankful for this. My dryer was the exact dryer used in the video and I was able to fix my dryer all on my own with this video’s help!!! Thank you so much!!!
What exactly was wrong with your dryer?
Thank you for this video. My Amana's thermostat failed and took the hi limit cutoff with it. Looking on Amana's parts site the thermostat has been replaced with a higher limit one, so I'm assuming it's a common problem with the particular model I have. 70$ for them both. Cheaper than calling someone out for sure!
Thanks Ben! Helped out greatly!
Thanks for this video!
Gave me the confidence to dig in and see if I could find my issue.
All of the tests passed, but I still get occassional non-heating.
I'm just going to order all of the parts and be done with it.
Did it work?
@@cra2cra226 Yes it did!
best diy dryer vid so far
You are very informative for a DIY'er.
Thanks!
Trying to find information I have a dryer by Whirlpool I have changed the coils change all the fuses new it goes on and it turns the drum it runs turns on heat after 2 heat it drops but it's still on running what advice you could give me what I could do with my dryer or what could you tell me what problems could I have thank you
I am not understanding your phrase "Turns on heat after 2 heat it drops but its still on running". What do you mean "after 2 heat it drops". Are you saying it initially heats, then stops heating all together?
Great tutorial! 👍👍👍 I have a question. I have the same dryer, but on my heating element I showing a red wire, orange wire and nothing on the inside pin. Is there a wire that should be there because all other wires are connected. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
On the ELEMENT itself - you need a red wire (L2) then either a red/white striped wire on the other post OR there should be a striped red (or other wire) going to the Thermostat which should be just above the element AND that thermostat should have a metal strip that fits onto the other element post.
It should look something like this: www.amazon.com/3977767-Dryer-Thermostat-Replacement-Stars/dp/B07443BDWF/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=3977767&qid=1597718069&s=hi&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMU9SRkRERU5TSDREJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzM5NjQwMkpPOTBZRzlIMVVHVCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjcyNjE0R0lOSzlJVTdEOVhUJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
The gold metal would have 3 attachment points - the post at the very right of the image, the small brass post where that orange wire may go (or some sort of plastic holder for the orange wire would be), then the left-most brass female spade, and that would go ON TOP of the element post. I hope that makes sense.
Here's another video I did roughly at the correct timestamp. It uses the 3977767 thermostat, and it has that post welded on - hopefully it makes sense:
ruclips.net/video/TGIodSIp_tA/видео.html
Hi, I am really new to this and my dryer keeps overheating and shutting off randomly. I used a multimeter and the heating element was fine but I got 0.0 on the thermostat and the HI limit cutoff. Does that mean that they are not working?
If it shuts off randomly, its either going to be a bad motor overheating, or the vent tube is clogged.
Thanks for posting!
Amana not heating need the tester that was mentioned in vid. The ox help thanks
Hey. I have a question. So I followed your excellent video, diagnosed the problem ordered the parts. I removed my heating element. Unfortunately my roommate did not know I had done this, plug the dryer back in turned it on. Huge spark, now the dryer is totally dead won't power on. I assume a fuse is blown. Could you tell me where that fuse might be? I assume it isn't the thermal fuse, but I don't know I am a total novice. Thank you so much in advance!
I swear I replied to this and wrote a long answer but I don't see it so...
The white fuse on the back on the blower (lower-left corner) is a safety kill-fuse on the unit that could be bad. Use a multimeter to verify continuity.
Chances are though, if you saw a BIG SPARK somewhere, its because a wire/terminal that was left bare touched the metal on the back of the dryer, and caused electric to flow through. The terminal that touched may be burnt and needs replaced.
However, the house/apartment breaker that handles the dryer has likely popped because of the amount of electricity that went through it. I would verify all your connections are safe on the dryer (nothing burnt to bits), then cycle the breaker FULLY OFF, then back FULLY ON. I guarantee it tripped, but if that is the core problem w/ the spark, its hard to say not being there.
@@bensappliancesandjunk thank you for the reply. You diagnosed the situation perfectly and it happened exactly like you said it would. I flipped the breaker and replaced the terminal, dryer is running well. Thank you again!
This is a fantastic video, thank you!
Thanks so much!
@@bensappliancesandjunk it was my thermostat! You rock
Ben.I have the same unit and replaced element ,timer and and all the thermostats,fuses.Still have no heat.And checked each component
GREAT! I replaced the heating elements (Box) how long for the new burn off smell to dissapear? It's noit bad, but I just changed it out,
10-15min usually
Have a dryer that the element won't heat. When you turn it on plugged in 120v reaches the element fine when you turn the dryer on heat and turn it on. The thermal switches have no resistance when turned off as they should. The element tests good as it has 10 ohm resistance and does not short to ground. There's no apparent physical problem with the element. There's a light blue wire running down towards the motor that seems to have a short to ground but I'm not sure if that's normal being it goes to the motor windings. Seems like I remember that motor wires will show a short to ground. The motor works great. Is there some way that the element could actually be bad anyway? What would be your recommendation to do in this situation? How can the element test good, have 120v going to it, but not heat? Anyone have a clue if the element is bad anyway or is there something else that could cause this? Also, it has 120 volts through both legs.
Thx … I followed along and it seems to be my: High Limit Cutoff. Thx for the video.
Nice work!
Soo should the dryer be plugged in when im checking continuity
Hey you helped me repair my dryer about 5 months ago. (Thanks again BTW) I replaced the heating element, fuses etc with the Amazon kit in your affiliate link. Worked like a charm for 5 months and now it is dead again. Any ideas on what might be causing it to go out? Would you recognize another brand of higher quality replacement parts? Dryer is carefully maintained, lint catcher regularly cleaned, properly ventilated etc. I just don't want to buy the same kind again if it's going to blow out in a few months. Thanks!
The #1 question is what blew out. You generally want to use a multimeter and find out what actually died - the element, thermostat, ect. Usually, there's a reason why it died even outside of a cheap part (usually, not all the time, but usually).
For example, if the high limit / thermal cutoff died and killed heat: We always check the lint SYSTEM not just the filter. Many times, there's a vent restriction somewhere that's causing it to overheat and trip. I'd just make sure to figure out which part actually died, instead of just replacing all of it.
@@bensappliancesandjunk ok will do! I've never checked the lint system. Thank you again
Checked all with multimeter, but element was definitely badly scorched as well as dead, no current passing through it. Anyway thanks again for your help, I will kick you some cash through patreon or PayPal I forget which one you use.
Thank you for this!
great video, saved me tinkering all day