Good evening Steve, I’m intrigued as to the depth of patients you have acquired. You know I use to build a large number of models and my favourite was Bismarck by airfix . Airfix was my preferred model my earlier days although the finished project never was as good as what I saw in the modeller magazines I used to read. There was one thing that puzzled me was why airfix gave the ship swinging bridge wings. I finally got the answer. She did have swinging wings and every other model kits were wrong. I guess she would not fit going down some of the canals in Germany. Thank you. You do have great talent you share it freely just as our Saviour did. Good job. Forever in His service
Couldnt agree more steve. The detail on those louvres and a few other things is far above what can be molded in plastic. However i think some pontos things are just too small to have the effect after fitting and bending, then covering in glue and paint.
Awesomeness as always...looks really good...that section is the worst IMHO...you see I have stripes going right through all of it as mine depicts Mid April's.....those bloody stripes lol...black and white pass right through inset for secondary turret...keeping them aligned straight up superstructure was a nightmare but I got them...💞💞💞
@@TheModelShed you could have done it I think seeing your work so far but I nearly ended up in a sanitarium doing it so maybe your decision was prudent lol...down the road I need to mask off turret tops and sloping sides...slopes dark grey like really dark(7016) with red horizontal tops....lol...my Heller 1/100 Victory was not as hard...even rigging the shrouds😃😃💓💓💓💓💓🇬🇧🇨🇦🇬🇧🇨🇦
Beautiful. Please tell me, is all this work to clean the plastic molded things and replace them with PE worthy? I mean is the difference that big? I have the trumpeter kit of this model, but I don't know if I should buy and use the PE kit. It is a lot of work and time.
The answer to that is it’s a matter of personal choice and how much extra work you’re prepared to put in. The kit is ok as it is and will build into a fine model. For me I like the challenge of the PE as an end in itself so I’m happy to do the work. The only firm advice I’d offer is not to start detailing if you aren’t fully committed to it as a half done model will look odder than the base kit. The hobby is supposed to be enjoyable and if you don’t enjoy PE - don’t use it.
@@TheModelShed a great comment and advise. Thanks a lot. Yeah, I will think well and twice to see what I should do. Thanks again. And if I go for the PE I will see all your work as a reference. Thank you.
Hi Steve, great work, as always.The big engine room vents came out fantastic. Looks like time and effort well spent. I was wondering where the reference for painting the cross hatched wooden gratings in the front part of the bridge deck in the anthrazite/ dark grey colour came from? I have only seen it depicted in a darker natural wooden brown. Does this come from the anatomy of the ship book?
Thanks Klaus - no Its my error I think - I misinterpreted what these patterns were. I haven't fixed that brass deck yet so I'll repaint it. Thanks for the heads up.
Must ask - do you use a foot switch to control your Minicraft drill, or a finger? Incidentally, worth getting an aerosol of something like Servisol De-Flux 160 or other pcb cleaner. With sweated brass overlays, I’ve actually ended up with a hole from flux residue after a couple of years.
I think they’re the best ever made for modelling, dolls houses etc. I like them much better than heavy Dremels, though you can use all of their accessories. Ron, there was a whole Minicraft range from, I think, Black & Decker originally - saw tables, bandsaws etc. You can still get the small MB150 drill and a transformer new from the UK. Other Minicraft tools can be got from eBay second hand and they have lasted well and are quite sought-after - I have a small collection. For plastic, though, don’t underestimate the Tamiya battery drill and router. With the addition of a ball bearing, they’re slow running and don’t melt plastic easily.
Good evening Steve,
I’m intrigued as to the depth of patients you have acquired. You know I use to build a large number of models and my favourite was Bismarck by airfix . Airfix was my preferred model my earlier days although the finished project never was as good as what I saw in the modeller magazines I used to read. There was one thing that puzzled me was why airfix gave the ship swinging bridge wings. I finally got the answer. She did have swinging wings and every other model kits were wrong. I guess she would not fit going down some of the canals in Germany. Thank you. You do have great talent you share it freely just as our Saviour did. Good job.
Forever in His service
Thank you Alex I built the Airfix Bismarck many years ago as well.
Excellent series. Thanks for sharing your build in so much detail!
You're welcome
Awesome as usual, loving this series 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Pete 👍
She's coming together really nicely now. Very nice detail, I really like how those photo etch vents on the side really pop.
They add a lot I think Mike
Couldnt agree more steve. The detail on those louvres and a few other things is far above what can be molded in plastic.
However i think some pontos things are just too small to have the effect after fitting and bending, then covering in glue and paint.
That’s true Jerry some of the really small stuff doesn’t work
More excellent work, Steve. This build has got me hooked.
nice to hear thanks John
Learning lot from you. Will be using these videos when I start my Bismarck. Great work Steve.
thank you hope your build goes well👍
Cracking work as ever Steve👌
Thanks Gary👍
Awesomeness as always...looks really good...that section is the worst IMHO...you see I have stripes going right through all of it as mine depicts Mid April's.....those bloody stripes lol...black and white pass right through inset for secondary turret...keeping them aligned straight up superstructure was a nightmare but I got them...💞💞💞
I couldn’t face those stripes Casey - chickened out….
@@TheModelShed you could have done it I think seeing your work so far but I nearly ended up in a sanitarium doing it so maybe your decision was prudent lol...down the road I need to mask off turret tops and sloping sides...slopes dark grey like really dark(7016) with red horizontal tops....lol...my Heller 1/100 Victory was not as hard...even rigging the shrouds😃😃💓💓💓💓💓🇬🇧🇨🇦🇬🇧🇨🇦
R u doing the top of the guns German grey or flat black?
German grey
Beautiful. Please tell me, is all this work to clean the plastic molded things and replace them with PE worthy? I mean is the difference that big? I have the trumpeter kit of this model, but I don't know if I should buy and use the PE kit. It is a lot of work and time.
The answer to that is it’s a matter of personal choice and how much extra work you’re prepared to put in. The kit is ok as it is and will build into a fine model. For me I like the challenge of the PE as an end in itself so I’m happy to do the work. The only firm advice I’d offer is not to start detailing if you aren’t fully committed to it as a half done model will look odder than the base kit. The hobby is supposed to be enjoyable and if you don’t enjoy PE - don’t use it.
@@TheModelShed a great comment and advise. Thanks a lot. Yeah, I will think well and twice to see what I should do. Thanks again. And if I go for the PE I will see all your work as a reference. Thank you.
Hi Steve, great work, as always.The big engine room vents came out fantastic. Looks like time and effort well spent. I was wondering where the reference for painting the cross hatched wooden gratings in the front part of the bridge deck in the anthrazite/ dark grey colour came from? I have only seen it depicted in a darker natural wooden brown. Does this come from the anatomy of the ship book?
Thanks Klaus - no Its my error I think - I misinterpreted what these patterns were. I haven't fixed that brass deck yet so I'll repaint it. Thanks for the heads up.
Will you be doing a video build of the eduard F6F-3's at some point.awesome episode.
I have a feeling the Hellcat and the Wildcat are going to be for the Aces series. I could be wrong, but am looking forward to seeing them built.
Correct - but I’ve no idea when - the second aces episode will be neither of these……..
Wonder why louvre this style. Not just twist down like ladders
I don’t think there would be space on a flat vent etching for the depth of the louvres: they overlap when shut.
Nice paint work, looks great. Is there a particular epoxy you use to apply the large PE or just any two part epoxy?
I use Araldite rapid Chris
Must ask - do you use a foot switch to control your Minicraft drill, or a finger? Incidentally, worth getting an aerosol of something like Servisol De-Flux 160 or other pcb cleaner. With sweated brass overlays, I’ve actually ended up with a hole from flux residue after a couple of years.
So! That's what the name is. Cool tool!
Just my finger on the chuck. I don’t recommend it but I’ve had this drill for 30 years and it’s still going strong
I think they’re the best ever made for modelling, dolls houses etc. I like them much better than heavy Dremels, though you can use all of their accessories. Ron, there was a whole Minicraft range from, I think, Black & Decker originally - saw tables, bandsaws etc. You can still get the small MB150 drill and a transformer new from the UK. Other Minicraft tools can be got from eBay second hand and they have lasted well and are quite sought-after - I have a small collection. For plastic, though, don’t underestimate the Tamiya battery drill and router. With the addition of a ball bearing, they’re slow running and don’t melt plastic easily.
There is no black stripe in the rounded niche.There's a gray color. Look carefully at the drawing. With respect.
Yup got that