Im taking a machine Tool course at my local community college, and just recently did a project that was designed to emphasize how bad a drill bit can wobble. In short, the bit will take the path of least resistance, so center punching is a must for accuracy. Glad to see this shown to the woodworking crowd as well. Thanks.
To me, it's the difference between drilling holes as you showed, versus making things which require a lot of repitition. A fence and movable stop are quite handy and the is no accuracy if the aux table isn't secured to the metal table...clamps around the sides get in the way. Also, I've experienced trying to hand-hold a workpiece when the friction gets too much and the workpiece starts spinning...not a pretty sight and sometimes hurts big time. Regular use of a fence is for safety...workpiece can't spin. Ignoring that aspect of safety reminds me of seeing a mattress on the roof of a car, held in place by string and hands through the car windows. I'm sure the car occupants think "I've got it!" But arms are no match for aerodynamic lift on a mattress.
In my freshman wood shop class (this year) I implemented some of your tips and techniques and my teacher was pleasantly surprised at me. I told him it was all you
First thing I did when I got my drill press was make a nice table for it. But with experience, I now agree on many of your points. The insert doesn't last long enough and is a pain to make replacements for. The fence gets in the way more often than it is actually useful.
1.) Drill press tables are attached to the plate so you can still turn it if you want. 2.) It takes less time to make a few round inserts than it did to type this sentence 3.) Make a table that allows you x-y capabilities. No need for a crank in the back. 4.) There are more then several videos of a mini drill press. i have made quite a few for my cordless for jobsite applications with a couple of scrapts and drawer slides. the simple lever allows for 150 pounds of pressure or much more. 5.) I have very useful drawers on my table for so much. Bits, Chuck keys, chucks, 3in1 oil, sanding bits, speed squares, right angles, etc. 6.) You can incorporate "T" tracks or Miter slots and now you're able to do a LOT more. You can spend a couple of hours on a nice table and really appreciate all your drill press can offer, or not. I believe the pros out weigh the cons though. Just my opinion.
Once again, I'm looking around for general shop information and I land on another of your excellent videos. Today obviously, I'm researching drill presses and thinking about adding one to my shop. I marvel at your shop organization also. I'm going to use your video show my wife why I NEED a Drill Press and can't just do it with a drill. Thank YOU again and again for your continued excellence in all woodworking disciplines. Thumbs UP
You do realise you're spending her money - yes, her money - even if it is your money, it's not! - all money is hers! I would expect she has no use for a drill press. It is utterly futile to explain why you're buying it, no matter how sensible the purchase is. In your next life, make sure you marry a carpenter instead.
Have you people seen what this man builds with his "cheap" tools?? Apparently it is the ability as a master woodworker.Spending tons of money on the big brand names Doesn't matter when you're that talented.
When Matthias builds a tool, it is usually better than purchasing the same tool as he engineers the weak points out!! I would love to have even a small portion of his mechanical abilities.
Brian, that maybe true to some extent.. but at some point even an "entry level" specifically designed tool is still better than a "customized tool" that is using cheap, and weak electric tools. I have utterly destroyed cheap tools like Harbor Freight in one use, and had to go spend the money on a better one anyway.
I built a very simple one - plywood that extends a couple of inches beyond the metal base to make it easier to clamp to. Thought one day I'd build a more sophisticated one. You've helped me realize that what I have is sufficient and more flexible. Thanks for saving me a lot of wasted time.
You're right! It's what each of us needs. I bought my drill press in 1985 and attached a 3/4" 14 x 22" piece of plywood that is still like new. If I needed a fence or stop block, I used a board, clamps and a piece of scrap. Now, I might make a narrow fence only for dust collection and use it with a clamp.
I too do this and when I need to I make a fence and a stop for metal and other piece that require more repeat-ability. It is nice to be able to make what you need when you need it not feeling locked into a table design that might restrict your abilities. Great little vid Matthias
I have been watching quite a few of your video's and without a doubt you are a very talented carpenter who has hands of Gold. Keep the video's coming because your projects are just amazing.
I agree with all of your points on this one. I built, and used drill press table years ago, and eventually got frustrated and removed it. One other benefit of removing the table top was it reduced the footprint of my drill press significantly as well. I now just use a scrap piece of plywood in the same way you do. Also, my drill press does not have the crank to raise and lower the table height quickly like yours, so I actually have a few of these scraps of plywood nearby that I can stack on the table to quickly get it to the right height in a hurry.
I think that a very useful addition to a drill press would be a cover to make the bottom of the table casting flat. My clamps are always awkward to position among the reinforcing ribs under the table.
I have seen others proudly show their DP table but I just can convince myself it is as useful as what people seem to think,I have used my DP for metal fabrication and woodworking for 30 plus years and honestly a piece of plywood /two clamps has been more than enough every time.Matthias,thank you for making my point.
Just bought a drill press and came across this vid. It’s a no nonsense explanation that provides an option to making more complex drill press tables. I’ll use this type table and a second slip on type. Thank you for the vid.
Dear Matthias, I did go ahead and make a drill press table complete with t slots and a rear sliding fence. Beneath the drill centre landing position I routed out a 6” circular hole to the depth of a piece of chipboard and made several circular inserts. These get messed up over time but can rotate in use to spread the wear but continue to stop tear-out on the underside. When they are totally cacked up you can throw them away and slip in a new one. The best part of using this is when drilling small parts I can fix it on the rear fence and with a sliding compression arm. I don’t need to hold it with my fingers and therefore don’t risk getting a finger injury should the bit bind the piece and start spinning madly. I recently adjusted the level on my table to accommodate a sloped hole with a morticing bit and decided I really don’t want to do that again. I want to make a table that can be tilted, leaving the table flat. I think that would be very useful from time to time. Much better than holding a portable drill at the approximate angle and hoping for the best.
We all work in different ways. It's good to see how others work, because it can make our own work better. I do use a table, but it's very simple. Just a piece of 3/4" MDF bolted to the stock table through the slots. It's somewhat larger than the stock table, giving more support to larger pieces being drilled. The overhang makes it convenient for clamping. I also often use an MDF fence, just clamped to the table. Whenever I'm doing through-drilling, I also use a piece of scrap for a backer, which as you point out prevents blow-out. It also saves my MDF table, but it's easy enough to replace. My drill press is a floor model, so access to the crank is not an issue.
I agree. I have a Skil drill press and it never even occurred to me to build anything onto it for the table. I can't imagine why I'd want to do anything any differently than how you're using yours in the video. If I need to set the table up with some kind of guide, fence, or whatever, I grab some scrap wood pieces and clamps and I'm good to go. All the reasons you stated and more - my press's table can also rotate in the Z axis and sometimes I need that feature. I'd never cripple myself with something I'd end up taking apart anyway. Only thing my press doesn't already have that I'd love would be truly variable speed. Presses are awesome. :-) And a big wow about the 160lbs. Never thought about it, but I know there have been times when my downforce was way up there also.
Not very many people do the crazy things he does with a drill press. Personal choice!!! I CHOOSE to have one of those "fancy" drill press tables because it works for me and I LIKE having it!!!
This is refreshing. After assembling a new floor mounted drill press, then looking for a drill press table, I didn't stop to ask if I needed one to begin with. After all, I can always add one later.
I didn't use a drillpress table all my life (i'm 58), mainly because it could get in the way for certain processes, but then i maade one, but it doesn't bolt to the table, the underside of the table has 3 strips of wood that are an 'interference fit' around the main table, this means i can slide it on and off as and when i need to, I often drill metal, and even though i grip the metal firmly, it can sometimes catch and spin around, the table fence helps to stop that. maybe build a small table in the same way and give it a try, i made my first from scraps to see what the advantages were, and soon made a better one.
As someone wondering whether to make one, I was thinking the biggest perk of having one was going to be simply the increased surface area for holding longer boards? Wasn't going to faff about with recessed grooves for replaceable inserts or t-slots, just a slab of 18mm ply that gets clamped on-top of the stock table from underneath.
I respect your knowledge regarding tools and machines, BUT, one of the quickest ways of getting seriously hurt is by wearing a long sleeve shirt around any piece of powered equipment that spins or turns. Short sleeve shirts are just as important to wear as safety glasses. I know, as I got injured on a drill press as an apprentice tool maker many years ago. Last long sleeve shirt I ever wore in the shop.
Just today I was getting frustrated with my drill press, table and fence. I built the table and fence to increase accuracy with repeated drills, but I wasn't getting the accuracy I expected. I found this video at the right moment. I will be measuring/scoring and using the awl until I'm way more confident in my drill press skills. Thanks for taking the time to make a video for a concept that feels like it should be simple and straightforward but has nuances that can ruin a project.
I think that the entire video can be summed up by examining the closing statement; "because it my opinion having some big table will handicap you more than will actually help you". The points raised throughout are good considerations, however it is all down to personal working practices. Some procedures are far more repeatable through the use of jigs, fences and stops which simply cannot be done practically with a small table. A better way of looking at this would be how to easily mount/dismount a larger table to the smaller one to take best advantage from a wider range of options. To add my own closing statement, "limiting yourself to either a small or a large working table will handicap your creative working options more than it will help you".
Many of us went your route for years, even decades, then added the table and wouldn't go back. I'm out in my shop nearly every day. I don't like wasting time building a temporary fence to drill a series of holes, or to repeat cuts. The permanent, but removable table allows me to avoid that. Drill presses aren't solid on the bottom, so running a bar clamp up against the bottom side of the table, away from a support web, is, to me an unnecessary annoyance. Too, if the table needs to be bigger, I have to drill holes and use wing nuts to temporarily secure the table. My table is simple and removes in seconds. I only have to spin a couple knobs on the underside and the clamps drop away from the table, but I rarely find need to remove it. The crank is a bit more difficult to get to, but not enough I give it much thought. The fence is secured via slots in the base and can be adjusted quickly to set up for things like drilling hidden hinge holes or pin holes for musical instruments. The larger table allows me to set things on the side during drilling, to mount squaring blocks for straight long cuts and so forth. It's now difficult to picture not having it. All that said, I enjoy your videos. Thanks
+Kelly Craig Depends on the work you do or perhaps a project for a high number of repetitive tasks. Why are you intensely justifying why you use a table? There is no rule that says you have to and you can do either as required.
+Stu Bee, damn! I keep forgetting, an opposing view should never be told. Of course, those not initiated in the frequent use of a drill press might, erroneously, construe this to mean using a table is, at all times, silly, amateurish and otherwise necessary in all situations.
Kelly Craig Then everything you said comes under the category of "it goes without saying" or part of a resume for Handyman TV show . Either preference as required. I have several dedicated units of different configurations made by consuming cut-offs. Pop-on,pop-off and think of them as jigs, not semi-permanent tables. Conundrum resolved.
@@jamesferguson6583, you're welcome. See, RUclips really is an information source, where you can find different points of view. Many, like mine, are based on experiences that reach back to the seventies.
Matthias, you're awesome! Your videos are extra-instructive because you don't just say "I do it this way" but you explain WHY you do it that way and WHAT BAD THINGS WILL HAPPEN if you did it a different way. Thank you!
I got my drill press 2 year ago I remember myself so exited that by the time it arrived I already got a really big table for it, never used it without until today, never again, no more tables for me thank you for making me enjoy using my drill press again
Smart video. I have pondered building a table many times. I always ended up taking the lazy way out and not doing it because it seems like it's just going to in the end add more hassle. Glad to have my thinking confirmed.
Thanks for the insight. I have a Bridgeport mill for presise drilling , milling , or even wood routing on wood but have been pondering a table with fence for the drill press. As you pointed out it'll probably handicap more than be handy. I keep several hardwood scraps of different sizes to use for awkward setups that don't require setting up a mill to do.
You just verified my own typical methods, and saved me a needless investment, driven only by an unwarranted desire for 'neatness' - heh. Thank you for the morale boost. And if it makes you feel more chipper, my two drill presses are smaller than yours!
Possibly the reason your small drill bit had runout, in the past, I have seen the size stamped on the drill. I have filed off the high spots and it seems to help. Love your video's.
My reaction after 7 years LOL. Great video, nice to see that you use exactly the same methods as I came up on the other side of the planet, very practical. To prevent the drill bit still going too deep I use a cable tie to set the maximum depth. There are some electronic hand drills out there that are powerful enough to give pretty good results when used in a drill stand. I use a second hand Metabo SBE 1000 in a Wabeco drill stand, in low gear setting it drills up to pretty wide (3 inch+/7,5 cm+) and deep holes in hardwood and steel at a very acceptable speed and precision. One of the nice features of this drill is that the speed can be set manually by turning an easily accessible knob. Using a drill stand with an electric hand drill will never render the precision of a drill press and at that ease, but the results can be very acceptable. And it's the portability which is of great importance to me. The strange thing about this Metabo drill though is that in theory it only delivers 29.50 Foot-pounds/40Nm of torque but it feels far more powerful, it doesn't seem to have a hard time at all doing this job, it never jammed.
Well said Matthias Wandel . I use clamps and a piece of scrap when i need a fence. I also agree with Jay Bates , it depends on the type of work you do and your preference.
I once worked in a commercial shop where we'd run batches that could be a few parts or a few thousand. Things had to be right and there was no time to mess around with half-baked methods....and we did it exactly the way you show. We used this general idea in many places in the shop. There was one exception-the runout on our press was small enough that we could clamp a fence the table and a stop on the fence. We'd have fixed or tossed the machine if that wasn't possible, but that was our needs, not yours.
When you put the scale on the table my immediate thought was "oh no, I won't be able to understand the force without having to look it up" but then you said it in kg! Instant subscribe (Y)
I completely agree with you on both points. There is this whole "shop improvement" craze right now, but just because you _can_ doesn't mean that you _should_. Both the table and fence are overrated. I wouldn't even have a fence, if it weren't also compatible with my band-saw. Clamps work fine.
I was too much of a novice and socially awkward student when I met Matthias, but he's the most similar to me in terms of pragmatic methodology, and I wish I could go back and thank him retroactively, lol. He kind of reminds me of my dad, too. Engineers, man!
Nice thoughts on the drill press table. I don't have space for a drill press right now, so I just use a stand for my hand drill that is acceptable. It's true what you say about the forces involved while drilling, often involving a nice amount of pressure. I will eventually get a drill press and then I'll see if I really want a table for it or not. Thanks for the advice.
I wish some people stop taking your methods so personal if it goes against theirs . I for one use some of your methods and overlook others because of their complex makeup. I do enjoy how you view things because you look at things "outside the box". Keep up the good vid's.
Pipe organ builders usually have at least three and often five or six drill presses of varying sizes and types. Typically with a long thick poplar or pine board screwed down on them to support long pieces of work. In the middle a large standard size rectangular rebate for replaceable insert blocks made of the same stuff. Every now and then the bench guys would get me to mill a whole bunch of them. Easy, quick. No shop is complete without a drill press. I could not manage without one, so many uses.
Hi Matt - thanks for the vid. I guess the only thing is keeping the sacrificial wooden board stable whilst in use - maybe size it for the smell base and fit some simple dowel locators, would only take a few mins and make it a bit safer. On the theme of safety, I know we all hate it, but please do up your sleeve cuffs when working - would hate for the flappy bits to get caught up in the bit etc ... not worth the risk.
I've been using my drill press with no table atached to it, because this have been making things easier to me in the many kinds of holes I need to make, but I hadn't theorized like this before...
I built one with a quick release mechanism so that I can easily remove it for the other circumstances. It has a simple sliding dovetail for he sacrificial inserts and I made a huge batch of them on the router table so it's not a hassle. I get the point though. I do remove the table sometimes.
Thank you for pointing out the load difference from a drill press to a hand drill. I'm not really looking to substitute a drill press with a hand drill, but it would be nice to have a jig so I can drill more steadily and precisely than using free hand
homewoodworking vs pro is the question here, hardly anyone can make a generalization, but for low or high volume drilling a table has many many timesaving and accuracy benefits.there are ways to correct the runout you say your machine has.
I was thinking for the best thing to do--you have helped to solidify my decision. I'll get a press instead of making one...the press or a table. =) Thanks.
Well said. Totally agreed your opinion. Combining rather simple things makes things fit into more variable situations. All-in-one package actually does not do all kind of things not so well as advertised.
Back in the basement, eh? Thanks for the wisdom. I just picked up a drill press and had been contemplating a table. I really don't like lots of impediments while I work or play and didn't anticipate what you've highlighted here.
Good God this was a good video. I will be subscribing. Just got my new Christmas drill press today (still in the box). Look forward to more videos. Thank you!
Matthias, with all due respect, I think your drill bit wobbles because you have a cheap drill press. Expensive is not always good, but "cheap" is cheap for a reason. I have 2 floor drill presses in my shop (one for wood and one for metal) and both are very precise with near zero run out. I check that with a polished drill blank chucked up and a good dial indicator. I bought a cheap drill press (for convenience in the garage) and it had wobble of about 0.010" which is much too much. Swapped it for another, and same thing. Replaced the chuck, same problem. So checked just the quill, and there was the run out. Used a scrap of hardwood and a heavy hammer to straighten the quill to < 0.001" run out. Yes, I likely "dinged" the quill bearing, but I don't use it very often, so should outlast me regardless. My point is, you normally have to pay for precision, or not, as your preference might be. But you can't say that any type or class of tools is imprecise, just because you buy the cheapest
+Matthias Wandel Wow, my friend. Sorry you have to deal with so many who seem to miss every single point you make. These people would drive me absolutely bananas.
+SynapticTransmission No, I didn't miss his point. I love Matthias' videos but that doesn't mean I always agree with everything he says. I didn't say, "Oh you're wrong. A drill press table is better." I was simply explaining that there is no "wobble" in a quality drill press, that wobble is not normal, nor should you live with it. I contributed something to the discussion. You sir, contributed nothing. That drives me crazy.
Rusty Cas your point is very valid, its just that most people dont have enough money, which is what I think most woodworkers on RUclips should focus more on, so we have to just live with it and deal with it! All this from a person who cant even buy a drill press 😅
Thanks! I have many of the same misgivings about a drill press table having gotten the bug to build one lately. I was thinking of making one that easily removes but then it seems like just one more step. Also I though i would make one that had a C channel so i could mount metal vice on top of it when drilling metal but it just seems like a lot of fuss when i can already clamp that vice to metal table that came with press. So yea, for using drill press for wood, i use a board also. A few more worthwhile additions i have seen are converting a cheap electronic caliper into a depth gauge and maybe a drill bit holder that mounts to column. Thanks-you saved me a bunch of work!
some great information. I'm currently thinking of buying a drill press as a do a lot of repetitive drilling and using a drill press with a stock & stop would save me having to mark out each hole individually as I'm currently doing.
I agree, ever since I installed a table few years ago, I have used the drill press less and less. too much hassle taking it off for different jobs as you mentioned.
I also use a board on top of my drill press table. But I don’t plane my board down. I mix up some bondo and fill the holes, sand it smooth if necessary and keep going. Eventually the board needs to be replaced.
I don’t use a drill press table because I also find it limiting, not only for wood working but I often need the metal working vise and cutting oil. I do have a removable fence I can attach using the table slots that has a tee track to use with a stop. I have a piece of plywood I attach the same way if I need to support something large. Even then I drill into scraps as backers. And if I need to clamp something usually a drill press clamp in the slots works out fine. But all these things generally are not attached. What I do like is having a good light and dust collection. To each his own.
I use a drill press table for more than 10 years, and I find it very help full. Maybe it depend what you do, but I will never use drill press without it. anyway, the one I have can be remove in less then 5 sec, in case of... And you do many thing with a table press you will not be able to do without it. So, definitively, YES, I use a table!
I have a big low rpm drill that I use with a tenon cutter and forstner bits for building log furniture at my cabin and for holes I could easily drill at home on my drill press I need to position myself to use most of my body weight to drive the drill down.
You can build a nice fancy table and use cam type clamps on the bottom to secure it to the stock metal table. Just release the clamps and remove the fancy table and it's open to use it as you please. So you CAN have a fancy table, and it won't take but 30 seco is to remove it. You can also setup different tables as custom jigs for different uses, with the same type of clamping mechanism underneath them. You're a cleaver guy, I'm sure you knew this already. I'm just writing this comment to remind you just incase you forgot.
I agree, I just bought a floor drill press and will not be putting a "drill press table on it... One 3/4 pine board that overlaps by 1" on the cast iron table is all I use. When in use another "waste board is placed under the item being drilled as a backer and to avoid killing drill bits on the cast iron....The overlap is to allow ease of clamping a fence when needed...95% of drilling needs no special set ups...People get carried away,,,Anyone who drills metal would have to remove the table else oil and metal bits would have their say...Still they look pretty are functional but get somewhat carries away in bells and whistles where a few clamps would do the trick equally as well..Now that's my take and in the end,,,do as you wish,be happy and have fun.
I agree that the drill press table has to be moved out of the way at times. Sometimes I wish I could move the head of the drill press side ways to drill in the end of a 3 or 4 foot piece.
Good deal, I'll have to do that. My drill press is smaller than yours and it doesn't have the gear to crank it up and down so you have to eye it for center hole. I'll have to figure some kind of cranking to raise and lower it so I can get the center hole lined up easier. :)
If all you use your drill press for is drilling holes then a backer board is all you need. A drill press is a very versatile piece of equipment in any shop and has many uses besides just drilling holes. The slots in the standard table are there for easy installment of various jigs, fixtures, vises and tables that expand the versatility. The wobble in that twist drill is due to the point not being centered. Using a drill bit like that no matter how well you set it up and secure your work piece, it's going to walk and not drill a precise, angled bore.
Im taking a machine Tool course at my local community college, and just recently did a project that was designed to emphasize how bad a drill bit can wobble. In short, the bit will take the path of least resistance, so center punching is a must for accuracy. Glad to see this shown to the woodworking crowd as well. Thanks.
You know what annoys me?
Just how neat, clean and organized your workshop is.
It really isn't fair to the rest of us!
Worcester Exchange ...that's first thing I noticed..
I thought the very same thing!
He can concentrate on the organization when not building useless fences and expensive drill press table. LOL
To me, it's the difference between drilling holes as you showed, versus making things which require a lot of repitition. A fence and movable stop are quite handy and the is no accuracy if the aux table isn't secured to the metal table...clamps around the sides get in the way. Also, I've experienced trying to hand-hold a workpiece when the friction gets too much and the workpiece starts spinning...not a pretty sight and sometimes hurts big time. Regular use of a fence is for safety...workpiece can't spin. Ignoring that aspect of safety reminds me of seeing a mattress on the roof of a car, held in place by string and hands through the car windows. I'm sure the car occupants think "I've got it!" But arms are no match for aerodynamic lift on a mattress.
The wood shop in my school loves your videos and my Teacher uses them all the time, thanks for the great content!
What? That's awesome! :)
I like your idea of scoring the corners with a caliper to get precise corner holes.
Something to remember for later use.
Thank you.
In my freshman wood shop class (this year) I implemented some of your tips and techniques and my teacher was pleasantly surprised at me. I told him it was all you
First thing I did when I got my drill press was make a nice table for it. But with experience, I now agree on many of your points. The insert doesn't last long enough and is a pain to make replacements for. The fence gets in the way more often than it is actually useful.
1.) Drill press tables are attached to the plate so you can still turn it if you want.
2.) It takes less time to make a few round inserts than it did to type this sentence
3.) Make a table that allows you x-y capabilities. No need for a crank in the back.
4.) There are more then several videos of a mini drill press. i have made quite a few for my cordless for jobsite applications with a couple of scrapts and drawer slides. the simple lever allows for 150 pounds of pressure or much more.
5.) I have very useful drawers on my table for so much. Bits, Chuck keys, chucks, 3in1 oil, sanding bits, speed squares, right angles, etc.
6.) You can incorporate "T" tracks or Miter slots and now you're able to do a LOT more.
You can spend a couple of hours on a nice table and really appreciate all your drill press can offer, or not. I believe the pros out weigh the cons though.
Just my opinion.
Once again, I'm looking around for general shop information and I land on another of your excellent videos. Today obviously, I'm researching drill presses and thinking about adding one to my shop. I marvel at your shop organization also. I'm going to use your video show my wife why I NEED a Drill Press and can't just do it with a drill. Thank YOU again and again for your continued excellence in all woodworking disciplines. Thumbs UP
You do realise you're spending her money - yes, her money - even if it is your money, it's not! - all money is hers! I would expect she has no use for a drill press. It is utterly futile to explain why you're buying it, no matter how sensible the purchase is. In your next life, make sure you marry a carpenter instead.
or dont get married. just be happily in love.
@DangerDaveFreestyle: "just be happily in love" ...... with the drill press!
"The drills often wobble a little bit"
Matthias, you crack me up.
I really like your videos, buddy. Keep up the outstanding work.
Have you people seen what this man builds with his "cheap" tools?? Apparently it is the ability as a master woodworker.Spending tons of money on the big brand names Doesn't matter when you're that talented.
When Matthias builds a tool, it is usually better than purchasing the same tool as he engineers the weak points out!! I would love to have even a small portion of his mechanical abilities.
Brian, that maybe true to some extent.. but at some point even an "entry level" specifically designed tool is still better than a "customized tool" that is using cheap, and weak electric tools. I have utterly destroyed cheap tools like Harbor Freight in one use, and had to go spend the money on a better one anyway.
Awesome tool maker. I appreciate his videos.
I smell jealousy in one of the replies...
Matthias is not a master woodworker. hes a genius engineer woodworker
Matthias, I love the crap out of your visuals, logic, and humility. You're great.
I'm lost by his repeated use of huge complicated terms like "thingy."
A thingy is a more generic term for a whatsis.
I built a very simple one - plywood that extends a couple of inches beyond the metal base to make it easier to clamp to. Thought one day I'd build a more sophisticated one. You've helped me realize that what I have is sufficient and more flexible. Thanks for saving me a lot of wasted time.
You're right! It's what each of us needs. I bought my drill press in 1985 and attached a 3/4" 14 x 22" piece of plywood that is still like new. If I needed a fence or stop block, I used a board, clamps and a piece of scrap. Now, I might make a narrow fence only for dust collection and use it with a clamp.
I too do this and when I need to I make a fence and a stop for metal and other piece that require more repeat-ability. It is nice to be able to make what you need when you need it not feeling locked into a table design that might restrict your abilities. Great little vid Matthias
I have been watching quite a few of your video's and without a doubt you are a very talented carpenter who has hands of Gold. Keep the video's coming because your projects are just amazing.
I agree with all of your points on this one. I built, and used drill press table years ago, and eventually got frustrated and removed it. One other benefit of removing the table top was it reduced the footprint of my drill press significantly as well.
I now just use a scrap piece of plywood in the same way you do. Also, my drill press does not have the crank to raise and lower the table height quickly like yours, so I actually have a few of these scraps of plywood nearby that I can stack on the table to quickly get it to the right height in a hurry.
I think that a very useful addition to a drill press would be a cover to make the bottom of the table casting flat. My clamps are always awkward to position among the reinforcing ribs under the table.
I have seen others proudly show their DP table but I just can convince myself it is as useful as what people seem to think,I have used my DP for metal fabrication and woodworking for 30 plus years and honestly a piece of plywood /two clamps has been more than enough every time.Matthias,thank you for making my point.
Just bought a drill press and came across this vid. It’s a no nonsense explanation that provides an option to making more complex drill press tables. I’ll use this type table and a second slip on type. Thank you for the vid.
This is why I like your videos, you make me realize I don’t need to waste money on something I might not need. Thanks!
Dear Matthias, I did go ahead and make a drill press table complete with t slots and a rear sliding fence. Beneath the drill centre landing position I routed out a 6” circular hole to the depth of a piece of chipboard and made several circular inserts. These get messed up over time but can rotate in use to spread the wear but continue to stop tear-out on the underside. When they are totally cacked up you can throw them away and slip in a new one.
The best part of using this is when drilling small parts I can fix it on the rear fence and with a sliding compression arm. I don’t need to hold it with my fingers and therefore don’t risk getting a finger injury should the bit bind the piece and start spinning madly.
I recently adjusted the level on my table to accommodate a sloped hole with a morticing bit and decided I really don’t want to do that again. I want to make a table that can be tilted, leaving the table flat. I think that would be very useful from time to time. Much better than holding a portable drill at the approximate angle and hoping for the best.
We all work in different ways. It's good to see how others work, because it can make our own work better. I do use a table, but it's very simple. Just a piece of 3/4" MDF bolted to the stock table through the slots. It's somewhat larger than the stock table, giving more support to larger pieces being drilled. The overhang makes it convenient for clamping. I also often use an MDF fence, just clamped to the table. Whenever I'm doing through-drilling, I also use a piece of scrap for a backer, which as you point out prevents blow-out. It also saves my MDF table, but it's easy enough to replace. My drill press is a floor model, so access to the crank is not an issue.
I agree. I have a Skil drill press and it never even occurred to me to build anything onto it for the table. I can't imagine why I'd want to do anything any differently than how you're using yours in the video. If I need to set the table up with some kind of guide, fence, or whatever, I grab some scrap wood pieces and clamps and I'm good to go. All the reasons you stated and more - my press's table can also rotate in the Z axis and sometimes I need that feature. I'd never cripple myself with something I'd end up taking apart anyway. Only thing my press doesn't already have that I'd love would be truly variable speed. Presses are awesome. :-)
And a big wow about the 160lbs. Never thought about it, but I know there have been times when my downforce was way up there also.
Not very many people do the crazy things he does with a drill press. Personal choice!!! I CHOOSE to have one of those "fancy" drill press tables because it works for me and I LIKE having it!!!
This is refreshing. After assembling a new floor mounted drill press, then looking for a drill press table, I didn't stop to ask if I needed one to begin with. After all, I can always add one later.
I didn't use a drillpress table all my life (i'm 58), mainly because it could get in the way for certain processes, but then i maade one, but it doesn't bolt to the table, the underside of the table has 3 strips of wood that are an 'interference fit' around the main table, this means i can slide it on and off as and when i need to,
I often drill metal, and even though i grip the metal firmly, it can sometimes catch and spin around, the table fence helps to stop that.
maybe build a small table in the same way and give it a try, i made my first from scraps to see what the advantages were, and soon made a better one.
I like the slide fit idea - I may build one of these myself :)
As someone wondering whether to make one, I was thinking the biggest perk of having one was going to be simply the increased surface area for holding longer boards? Wasn't going to faff about with recessed grooves for replaceable inserts or t-slots, just a slab of 18mm ply that gets clamped on-top of the stock table from underneath.
I respect your knowledge regarding tools and machines, BUT, one of the quickest ways of getting seriously hurt is by wearing a long sleeve shirt around any piece of powered equipment that spins or turns. Short sleeve shirts are just as important to wear as safety glasses. I know, as I got injured on a drill press as an apprentice tool maker many years ago. Last long sleeve shirt I ever wore in the shop.
I appreciate your video. Also appreciate the organization of your shop.
I don't even do carpentry or have any tools apart from a screw driver set. So why are these videos so damn interesting?
Just today I was getting frustrated with my drill press, table and fence. I built the table and fence to increase accuracy with repeated drills, but I wasn't getting the accuracy I expected. I found this video at the right moment. I will be measuring/scoring and using the awl until I'm way more confident in my drill press skills. Thanks for taking the time to make a video for a concept that feels like it should be simple and straightforward but has nuances that can ruin a project.
I think that the entire video can be summed up by examining the closing statement; "because it my opinion having some big table will handicap you more than will actually help you". The points raised throughout are good considerations, however it is all down to personal working practices. Some procedures are far more repeatable through the use of jigs, fences and stops which simply cannot be done practically with a small table. A better way of looking at this would be how to easily mount/dismount a larger table to the smaller one to take best advantage from a wider range of options. To add my own closing statement, "limiting yourself to either a small or a large working table will handicap your creative working options more than it will help you".
Many of us went your route for years, even decades, then added the table and wouldn't go back.
I'm out in my shop nearly every day. I don't like wasting time building a temporary fence to drill a series of holes, or to repeat cuts. The permanent, but removable table allows me to avoid that.
Drill presses aren't solid on the bottom, so running a bar clamp up against the bottom side of the table, away from a support web, is, to me an unnecessary annoyance. Too, if the table needs to be bigger, I have to drill holes and use wing nuts to temporarily secure the table.
My table is simple and removes in seconds. I only have to spin a couple knobs on the underside and the clamps drop away from the table, but I rarely find need to remove it.
The crank is a bit more difficult to get to, but not enough I give it much thought.
The fence is secured via slots in the base and can be adjusted quickly to set up for things like drilling hidden hinge holes or pin holes for musical instruments.
The larger table allows me to set things on the side during drilling, to mount squaring blocks for straight long cuts and so forth. It's now difficult to picture not having it.
All that said, I enjoy your videos. Thanks
+Kelly Craig
Depends on the work you do or perhaps a project for a high number of repetitive tasks. Why are you intensely justifying why you use a table? There is no rule that says you have to and you can do either as required.
+Stu Bee, damn! I keep forgetting, an opposing view should never be told. Of course, those not initiated in the frequent use of a drill press might, erroneously, construe this to mean using a table is, at all times, silly, amateurish and otherwise necessary in all situations.
Kelly Craig Then everything you said comes under the category of "it goes without saying" or part of a resume for Handyman TV show . Either preference as required. I have several dedicated units of different configurations made by consuming cut-offs. Pop-on,pop-off and think of them as jigs, not semi-permanent tables.
Conundrum resolved.
Jesus thanks for the essay
@@jamesferguson6583, you're welcome. See, RUclips really is an information source, where you can find different points of view. Many, like mine, are based on experiences that reach back to the seventies.
Nice tip w the caliper. Thanks!
I'm with ya on this one Matthias.
Matthias, you're awesome! Your videos are extra-instructive because you don't just say "I do it this way" but you explain WHY you do it that way and WHAT BAD THINGS WILL HAPPEN if you did it a different way. Thank you!
Thanks. You just save me a lot of time building something I only thought I needed lol
I got my drill press 2 year ago I remember myself so exited that by the time it arrived I already got a really big table for it, never used it without until today, never again, no more tables for me thank you for making me enjoy using my drill press again
Smart video. I have pondered building a table many times. I always ended up taking the lazy way out and not doing it because it seems like it's just going to in the end add more hassle. Glad to have my thinking confirmed.
Thanks for the insight. I have a Bridgeport mill for presise drilling , milling , or even wood routing on wood but have been pondering a table with fence for the drill press. As you pointed out it'll probably handicap more than be handy. I keep several hardwood scraps of different sizes to use for awkward setups that don't require setting up a mill to do.
You sir are organized, I’m 66 but when I grow up I want to be like you someday, thanks!
I am thankful for your logic and reason. I get a lot out of your videos.
You just verified my own typical methods, and saved me a needless investment, driven only by an unwarranted desire for 'neatness' - heh. Thank you for the morale boost. And if it makes you feel more chipper, my two drill presses are smaller than yours!
Possibly the reason your small drill bit had runout, in the past, I have seen the size stamped on the drill. I have filed off the high spots and it seems to help. Love your video's.
A very practical video with different vantage points considered, I appreciate the easy solutions.
My reaction after 7 years LOL. Great video, nice to see that you use exactly the same methods as I came up on the other side of the planet, very practical. To prevent the drill bit still going too deep I use a cable tie to set the maximum depth. There are some electronic hand drills out there that are powerful enough to give pretty good results when used in a drill stand. I use a second hand Metabo SBE 1000 in a Wabeco drill stand, in low gear setting it drills up to pretty wide (3 inch+/7,5 cm+) and deep holes in hardwood and steel at a very acceptable speed and precision. One of the nice features of this drill is that the speed can be set manually by turning an easily accessible knob. Using a drill stand with an electric hand drill will never render the precision of a drill press and at that ease, but the results can be very acceptable. And it's the portability which is of great importance to me. The strange thing about this Metabo drill though is that in theory it only delivers 29.50 Foot-pounds/40Nm of torque but it feels far more powerful, it doesn't seem to have a hard time at all doing this job, it never jammed.
I totally agree with you, I too don't see the point in a drill press table but I know loads of woodworkers have them. Regards
Thank you for sharing this knowledge, some items I had come to realise.
Regards,
Cy Joseph
Well said Matthias Wandel . I use clamps and a piece of scrap when i need a fence. I also agree with Jay Bates , it depends on the type of work you do and your preference.
Excellent presentation. Point well made. Thank you.
I once worked in a commercial shop where we'd run batches that could be a few parts or a few thousand. Things had to be right and there was no time to mess around with half-baked methods....and we did it exactly the way you show. We used this general idea in many places in the shop. There was one exception-the runout on our press was small enough that we could clamp a fence the table and a stop on the fence. We'd have fixed or tossed the machine if that wasn't possible, but that was our needs, not yours.
When you put the scale on the table my immediate thought was "oh no, I won't be able to understand the force without having to look it up" but then you said it in kg!
Instant subscribe (Y)
Good explanation. I don't use one either but I could see the value of having one that maybe just slid on to the iron table.
I completely agree with you on both points. There is this whole "shop improvement" craze right now, but just because you _can_ doesn't mean that you _should_. Both the table and fence are overrated. I wouldn't even have a fence, if it weren't also compatible with my band-saw. Clamps work fine.
I was too much of a novice and socially awkward student when I met Matthias, but he's the most similar to me in terms of pragmatic methodology, and I wish I could go back and thank him retroactively, lol.
He kind of reminds me of my dad, too. Engineers, man!
You are a living legend in the woodshop.
Nice thoughts on the drill press table. I don't have space for a drill press right now, so I just use a stand for my hand drill that is acceptable. It's true what you say about the forces involved while drilling, often involving a nice amount of pressure. I will eventually get a drill press and then I'll see if I really want a table for it or not. Thanks for the advice.
As always an interesting points with multiple work arounds, thanks for sharing
i cracked up when he said the bits often wobble a little bit and started it with the bit in the side of the chuck.
I wish some people stop taking your methods so personal if it goes against theirs . I for one use some of your methods and overlook others because of their complex makeup.
I do enjoy how you view things because you look at things "outside the box". Keep up the good vid's.
Pipe organ builders usually have at least three and often five or six drill presses of varying sizes and types. Typically with a long thick poplar or pine board screwed down on them to support long pieces of work. In the middle a large standard size rectangular rebate for replaceable insert blocks made of the same stuff. Every now and then the bench guys would get me to mill a whole bunch of them. Easy, quick. No shop is complete without a drill press. I could not manage without one, so many uses.
This is what wisdom looks like. Good premises, good logic.
Hi Matt - thanks for the vid. I guess the only thing is keeping the sacrificial wooden board stable whilst in use - maybe size it for the smell base and fit some simple dowel locators, would only take a few mins and make it a bit safer. On the theme of safety, I know we all hate it, but please do up your sleeve cuffs when working - would hate for the flappy bits to get caught up in the bit etc ... not worth the risk.
I've been using my drill press with no table atached to it, because this have been making things easier to me in the many kinds of holes I need to make, but I hadn't theorized like this before...
I built one with a quick release mechanism so that I can easily remove it for the other circumstances. It has a simple sliding dovetail for he sacrificial inserts and I made a huge batch of them on the router table so it's not a hassle. I get the point though. I do remove the table sometimes.
Thank you for pointing out the load difference from a drill press to a hand drill. I'm not really looking to substitute a drill press with a hand drill, but it would be nice to have a jig so I can drill more steadily and precisely than using free hand
Matthias, another practical, straight forward informative video. Thanks for your time and efforts,
i like how you got your wall setup behind you
You made some good points. Some I agree with, some not. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
homewoodworking vs pro is the question here, hardly anyone can make a generalization, but for low or high volume drilling a table has many many timesaving and accuracy benefits.there are ways to correct the runout you say your machine has.
I was thinking for the best thing to do--you have helped to solidify my decision. I'll get a press instead of making one...the press or a table. =) Thanks.
Well said. Totally agreed your opinion. Combining rather simple things makes things fit into more variable situations. All-in-one package actually does not do all kind of things not so well as advertised.
Back in the basement, eh? Thanks for the wisdom. I just picked up a drill press and had been contemplating a table. I really don't like lots of impediments while I work or play and didn't anticipate what you've highlighted here.
Good God this was a good video. I will be subscribing. Just got my new Christmas drill press today (still in the box). Look forward to more videos. Thank you!
I couldn't be bothered making a table for my drill press but now have a ready made excuse for my laziness. thanks Matthias 😁
Matthias, with all due respect, I think your drill bit wobbles because you have a cheap drill press. Expensive is not always good, but "cheap" is cheap for a reason. I have 2 floor drill presses in my shop (one for wood and one for metal) and both are very precise with near zero run out. I check that with a polished drill blank chucked up and a good dial indicator. I bought a cheap drill press (for convenience in the garage) and it had wobble of about 0.010" which is much too much. Swapped it for another, and same thing. Replaced the chuck, same problem. So checked just the quill, and there was the run out. Used a scrap of hardwood and a heavy hammer to straighten the quill to < 0.001" run out. Yes, I likely "dinged" the quill bearing, but I don't use it very often, so should outlast me regardless.
My point is, you normally have to pay for precision, or not, as your preference might be. But you can't say that any type or class of tools is imprecise, just because you buy the cheapest
+Rusty Cas And my point is, you can get precision without having an expensive drill press.
+Matthias Wandel and this is why I love the work of guys like you...
+Matthias Wandel Wow, my friend. Sorry you have to deal with so many who seem to miss every single point you make. These people would drive me absolutely bananas.
+SynapticTransmission No, I didn't miss his point. I love Matthias' videos but that doesn't mean I always agree with everything he says. I didn't say, "Oh you're wrong. A drill press table is better." I was simply explaining that there is no "wobble" in a quality drill press, that wobble is not normal, nor should you live with it. I contributed something to the discussion. You sir, contributed nothing. That drives me crazy.
Rusty Cas your point is very valid, its just that most people dont have enough money, which is what I think most woodworkers on RUclips should focus more on, so we have to just live with it and deal with it!
All this from a person who cant even buy a drill press 😅
Thanks! I have many of the same misgivings about a drill press table having gotten the bug to build one lately. I was thinking of making one that easily removes but then it seems like just one more step. Also I though i would make one that had a C channel so i could mount metal vice on top of it when drilling metal but it just seems like a lot of fuss when i can already clamp that vice to metal table that came with press. So yea, for using drill press for wood, i use a board also. A few more worthwhile additions i have seen are converting a cheap electronic caliper into a depth gauge and maybe a drill bit holder that mounts to column. Thanks-you saved me a bunch of work!
Your so RIGHT! Why complicate what has already been simplified?
some great information. I'm currently thinking of buying a drill press as a do a lot of repetitive drilling and using a drill press with a stock & stop would save me having to mark out each hole individually as I'm currently doing.
I agree, ever since I installed a table few years ago, I have used the drill press less and less. too much hassle taking it off for different jobs as you mentioned.
I also use a board on top of my drill press table. But I don’t plane my board down. I mix up some bondo and fill the holes, sand it smooth if necessary and keep going. Eventually the board needs to be replaced.
Matthias will you someday make a dust collector for your drill press
Very good video! Thanks for the pointers too!
I don’t use a drill press table because I also find it limiting, not only for wood working but I often need the metal working vise and cutting oil. I do have a removable fence I can attach using the table slots that has a tee track to use with a stop. I have a piece of plywood I attach the same way if I need to support something large. Even then I drill into scraps as backers. And if I need to clamp something usually a drill press clamp in the slots works out fine. But all these things generally are not attached. What I do like is having a good light and dust collection. To each his own.
I had no idea with something as commonly used as a Forstner bit there was that much weight involved. Thank you.
good tips, makes a lot of practical sense. thank you.
He is genius....this guys needs a book deal.
I use a drill press table for more than 10 years, and I find it very help full. Maybe it depend what you do, but I will never use drill press without it. anyway, the one I have can be remove in less then 5 sec, in case of... And you do many thing with a table press you will not be able to do without it. So, definitively, YES, I use a table!
Great video... you are right. keep it flexible, you never know what setup is going to be....
I have a big low rpm drill that I use with a tenon cutter and forstner bits for building log furniture at my cabin and for holes I could easily drill at home on my drill press I need to position myself to use most of my body weight to drive the drill down.
You can build a nice fancy table and use cam type clamps on the bottom to secure it to the stock metal table. Just release the clamps and remove the fancy table and it's open to use it as you please.
So you CAN have a fancy table, and it won't take but 30 seco is to remove it.
You can also setup different tables as custom jigs for different uses, with the same type of clamping mechanism underneath them.
You're a cleaver guy, I'm sure you knew this already.
I'm just writing this comment to remind you just incase you forgot.
I agree, I just bought a floor drill press and will not be putting a "drill press table on it... One 3/4 pine board that overlaps by 1" on the cast iron table is all I use. When in use another "waste board is placed under the item being drilled as a backer and to avoid killing drill bits on the cast iron....The overlap is to allow ease of clamping a fence when needed...95% of drilling needs no special set ups...People get carried away,,,Anyone who drills metal would have to remove the table else oil and metal bits would have their say...Still they look pretty are functional but get somewhat carries away in bells and whistles where a few clamps would do the trick equally as well..Now that's my take and in the end,,,do as you wish,be happy and have fun.
Thanks for the video, especially your tip about making a cross then punching with an awl.
I was about to make a fancy drill press table but after seeing your vid., I will use what I have which is similar to what you have. Thanks.
Thanks for posting your very useful and informative video. I especially like your tips such as using calipers to score the wood.
I agree that the drill press table has to be moved out of the way at times. Sometimes I wish I could move the head of the drill press side ways to drill in the end of a 3 or 4 foot piece.
It can be rotated, just loosen the setscrew.
Good deal, I'll have to do that.
My drill press is smaller than yours and it doesn't have the gear to crank it up and down so you have to eye it for center hole. I'll have to figure some kind of cranking to raise and lower it so I can get the center hole lined up easier. :)
Barry Wind Stijl fs 45 video
If all you use your drill press for is drilling holes then a backer board is all you need. A drill press is a very versatile piece of equipment in any shop and has many uses besides just drilling holes. The slots in the standard table are there for easy installment of various jigs, fixtures, vises and tables that expand the versatility.
The wobble in that twist drill is due to the point not being centered. Using a drill bit like that no matter how well you set it up and secure your work piece, it's going to walk and not drill a precise, angled bore.
Thanks,I found that very useful,you've made my mind up about making a table or not!.....Much more versatile without one........Cheers!
Table aside, it's good to see the little techniques you use to make the most of the press as well =)