Always good to have more woodworking material on youtube, but there were a few things I wanted to point out. First, at about a minute in to the meeting you do a cross cut with the butt of the board against the fence. This is a big hazard when using a table saw, as you can easy get out of 90 degrees on the board, have it bind between the saw and fence, the saw kicks back the board and maybe even rides up (less likely with the riving knife) and pulls your hand into the blade causing an amputation. Also, not using a blade guard is a big hazard, though is common and what makes the table saw the most dangerous saw in the shop. Finally, your advice to use a many toothed blade is incomplete. A many toothed blade is good for crosscutting but not for ripping. You want fewer teeth with larger gullets on a rip cut. Having a high tooth count blade for ripping will cause burning and will make the saw struggle and perhaps even stall. For how you were using your table saw, for both types of cuts, the best advice would be to get a combination blade that works relatively well for both cuts.
That is the first thing I noticed, the crosscut without the miter gauge, and using the rip fence as the stop. I’m not new to the table saw, but, sorry to say, this was about enough for me to wonder why am I watching this?
Totally agree with your comments (I had noticed the same and was about to make the same comments). Wrong use of a table saw = amputated fingers. I would invite the author of this video to review it or delete it - sorry body!
@@milosgrujic9118 I'll try to describe the hazard: Suppose you want to cut a 4" wide (100 mm) strip into sections 1 foot (300 mm) long. Do Not set the fence 1 foot from the blade and then push the strip through the blade while keeping one end in contact with the fence. The offcut can rotate slightly and get trapped between the fence and the blade. The offcut will then be thrown violently back toward you. This is the worst type of kickback. If you happen to be holding the offcut with one hand, it is very likely that your hand will be drawn into the blade with very bad results. I know a long-time woodworker who lost the ends of three fingers when something like this happened. It can happen very fast, like Bang! and it's all over.
Notice in the push stick demo he doesn’t continue to push on the wood after it hits the blade? It’s not mentioned, but it’s important! The three directions of pressure stop as soon as that part of the wood begins to split. Pushing it toward the *blade* is a good way to damage your blade or, worse, get kickback. Also, don’t be scared. Just go slow and *know where your hands are at all times* and you’ll do fine. The info is overwhelming but it comes together when you start. The hobby is as satisfying as you think it will be! ❤❤ Happy making to all of us safety nerds!
I’m a hand tools guy (as I can’t afford power tools yet!) but this is genuinely invaluable advice and I’ll be taking it all onboard when I eventually get a table saw. Earned my like and a subscription 👍
There is a benefit to raising the blade height: the cut angle is more downward. Less kickback velocity, should it occur. And of course you can make it safer by using the blade guard.
Very true, what I was getting at is for most people it’s worth getting into the habit of only having it set as high as it’s required to avoid accidents. You’re right about the blade guard, I don’t use it nearly as much as I should!
I'm sorry but I have to disagree with your observation. Kick back originates at the rear of the blade, not the front or the top! A high set blade would increase the velocity, not reduce it. Having said that, I agree a high set blade AND a correctly fitted riving knife and guard is the safest method for RIPPING. Stay safe and keep all your fingers.
It's very good to emphasise the safety considerations for power tools. I have been woodworking as an amateur for nearly 60 years but the accident I just had came out of nowhere and happened so fast I was unable to do anything to mitigate the injury. I was using a palm router with a slotting cutter to make biscuit recesses in some oak. The oak moved in the clamps and the cutter exited the slot and attacked my left hand really fast (the tip speed of the cutter I calculated was about 40 mph). I think myself lucky to still have a left thumb with much thanks to the plastic surgeons. There was some doubt initially that it could be saved.
Really sorry to hear about your close call with the router, but glad you still have your thumb to tell the tale! It just goes to show, even with 60 years in the game, power tools can still throw us a curveball. It's like they say, respect the tool, fear the injury. Thanks for sharing your story - it's a solid reminder for all of us woodworkers to keep our wits about us, even when doing the 'simple' stuff. Here's to safer routing and thumbs up for plastic surgeons!
Nice video. I’ve got an old beast of a table saw which has no fence and just about cuts at 90 Deg’s but I’m thinking of getting the DWE 7492 so finding a UK based DWE user is going to be very helpful. Subscribed!
You 100% won’t regret getting a Dewalt Table Saw! Glad you’ve subbed 😀 you might want to consider the rolling stand too, it’s usually cheaper to buy them in a bundle.
Great tip! Only thing I'd add is that if you're using a small saw to rip thick lumber, it's a good idea to get a dedicated rip blade. Much less work for the saw.
If you are cutting thick material, the best approach is to make a shallow cut then raise the blade a little bit and make a second cut and keep repeating until the board is sawn through. Another tip would be after each cut I mentioned above, rotate the workpiece end over end to keep the same edge against the fence and make another cut at the same height. In this way the cut will progress into the board from both sides and meet roughly in the middle.
when you are pushing the pieces thru with your push stick, it should be closer to the blade. by putting it close to the fence, you could be inadvertently causing the board to rotate slightly and potentially causing kickback.
Aligning the blade and fence should be the first tip not the last. Also, thin stops, as narrow as 1/8" can be cut safely and consistently using a GRRIPPER or the like which also doubles as a safer push device than any push stick
Well, as a professional you leave the complte teeth looking right out the piece (about 1cm) Also the fine wood blade is used for cuts against the direction of the grain, those with less teeth with its direction! If You use a fine wood blade in the same direction you will need more force, (as shown in 6:10) which hightens the danger of kickback and reduces its longlivety 🤷♂ Blades delivered by manufacturers are mostly something inbetween, that means that cuts in both directions are mediocre ...MEH! And "Thou not shall cut long pieces perpendicular to the blade along the rip fence, AMEN!" - that has an extremly high risk of kickback because the contact surface is just too small to really keep it stable (same problem you explained the freehand cuttting 👏) - always use the miter gauge!!! AND ALWAYS USE THE SAFETY CAP!!! But the rest is really pretty neat 😊 👍
@@sumeraybuilds Would love the Dewalt - I've been saving up as the extending table really has me set on it, but as you've done in your videos, getting a basic table saw may be the first step
Have pulled the trigger on the rage 5 now for Christmas...Will be here tomorrow. At least I can start playing with it over next week if I can motivate myself to get out in the cold 🥶
Hi - Tip 2 - Having your saw blade too high above your wood. I disagree with you saying there is never a reason to have it high. There are two reasons. 1 - When the saw is lower the direction of the front of the blade ( the half in front of the centre hole ) is pushing the wood towards you. The back half is also pushing the wood towards you - therefore more likely for the blade to accelerate the wood towards you. When the blade is fully raised the front half is pushing the wood down towards the table and less towards you. The downwards angle of the cutting teeth at the front is perpendicular (almost) to the table, heading downwards. When the blade is lower the direction is more of a 45 to the table heading more towards you. 2 - Second reason. A lower blade exposes the wood to more friction from the teeth, more likely to cause burning, than a fully raised blade, that has less surface area of the cutting edge touching the wood. Again, a lower blade has the cutting teeth going across the wood at about 45 degrees, while the higher blade has the teeth closer to 90 degrees. The lower blade exposes the wood to more of it being exposed to friction - more likely to cause burning marks. 3 - Did I say, two? I meant three. A lower blade makes it easier for the wood to climb on top of the blade and get fired towards you. A higher blade is harder to get kick back from as the wood has to climb further to get on top of the blade ( the position that most likely effects a kick back). The simplest way to visualize the above is get a piece of wood and put the blade against it with the teeth only just touching the top. Draw a like around the blade. Add arrows to the line to see the direction of the force. Also measure the amount of the line on the wood. Now repeat with the blade high. See the shorter length of blade touching wood and the arrow directions of the force applied. It becomes self evident at that point. There are times to have a lower blade, and times to have a higher blade. Ive found teaching others that less kick backs and wood climbs occur with a higher blade. Good push sticks mitigate the issue of hands being exposed to the blade. If your hand touches the blade, with a low blade its still a mess and your hand shouldn't have been there. If the wood is whipped away, a low blade is still tall enough to cut off fingers or transect hands as soon as the wood is 10 -15 mm (half inch) or more.
Thanks for your detailed insights on blade height adjustments on table saws - it's always great to broaden our woodworking knowledge. I don't consider myself an expert so always happy to hear from helpful people! You make some valid points about the benefits of a higher blade setting, particularly in terms of the direction of force and reduced wood friction. It's interesting to note how the angle of the blade impacts the direction of force and the potential for burning or kickback. Your perspective on how a higher blade can decrease the likelihood of kickback and wood climbing is particularly thought-provoking. I appreciate your emphasis on the use of good push sticks and the importance of hand safety, regardless of blade height. Safety always comes first, and it's crucial to remember that accidents can happen at any blade height if proper precautions aren't taken. It's discussions like these that remind us woodworking is as much about personal experience and technique as it is about following general guidelines. There's always something new to learn or a different perspective to consider, and that's part of what makes woodworking such a rich and rewarding activity. Again, thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience. It's contributions like yours that make the woodworking community so valuable.
@@sumeraybuilds He is absolutely spot on regarding blade height, you really want the teeth cutting down on the wood and not towards you. One of the reasons you should have a positive rake blade in a table saw and not a negative rake one ( for radial arm saws and mitre saws). I see far too many RUclips saying you only need 1 or 2mm sticking above the wood, no wonder people bang on about kickback if that's how they are running saws. In 40 years of using all types of saws and cutting thousands and thousands of pieces of wood of all sizes I can honestly say I could count on my fingers the times I've had any kind of kick back and I've never had a piece of wood come shooting back off the saw that for sure !! Its the difference in being properly trained and RUclips trained . Also you don't want those ridiculous push stick things with a handle I see so many on RUclips using, your hand gets far too close to the blade at the end of the cut and they simply are not safe. Use proper wooden push sticks in the shape you have around 450mm long, they will keep your hands and fingers a lot safer.
Using a higher blade height shortens the distance each tooth must travel through the wood and to some extent reduces the load on the blade. A higher blade will also reduce the tendency for some "problem wood" to burn, and it will reduce the tendency of the wood to lift 6:10. A good push stick should contact the wood over enough length to prevent lifting. The ones used in this video offer practically no resistance to lifting. --Old guy
Glad you liked it! I switch between the factory blade for rough cuts and a Saxton for finer work. amzn.to/40oPwy8 They do a 60 teeth and 80 teeth that fit this saw perfectly. They’re very affordable too. If your budget can stretch, I’ve heard good things about Dewalts Extreme range. Although I’ve not used them myself to confirm.
Excellent video - thank you. I do sometimes add pleasure, but mostly pressure. However, one does NOT align the fence to the blade. One aligns both the blade and the fence to the miter slot, because it is the only thing that is fixed in place.
Thanks for another great video,. Can you share the blade that you use for the Dewalt 7485 please? I am looking to replace the factory fitted one with one with more teeth. Thanks.
📽Videos Mentioned: I'm trying to turn one british penny into £1,000! It's draining, time consuming and (I think) quite entertaining to watch me suffer... if you liked this video then I recommend checking it out here: ruclips.net/p/PLsGhK9mo4fwlpqm1vodORGz0PTyT3dPr7 Router Table: ruclips.net/video/P1o6ndSyrMM/видео.html Cross Cut Sled: ruclips.net/video/b-ZocNX_dwA/видео.html Zero Clearance Insert: ruclips.net/video/GHCefxbwz6A/видео.html Storage Caddy: ruclips.net/video/Euppje3jM7I/видео.html DeWalt Table Saw Unboxing & Calibrations: ruclips.net/video/7yfPlLjL2uU/видео.html 📽 Watch my Table Saw Reviews Dewalt DWE4785: ruclips.net/video/8iJf-J56-a8/видео.html Evolution RAGE5-S: ruclips.net/video/LUoqPYXiWCs/видео.html
Great safety video that starts with him cross cutting a board the is 10 inches long and 3 inches wide on the fence and then using his router jig with his finger just about touching the the bearing on the round over bit. Perfect.
I watched several safety videos before using my table saw for the first time. I still made some mistakes. Best advice I got was to see the complete path of everything through the cut. My biggest mistake was I forgot to do that and ended up cutting into my fancy $65 push block because I didn't remember to crank the blade back down. That push block saved my hand, so I don't complain about investing in safety any more!
The good thing about these videos they make you think about keeping safe after many years of using Power tools its easy to get blasy about them and not give them the attention they always require.
You say that you should make sure the fence is parallel to the blade. That is true, but not how anyone should think about it because it is not enough that they are parallel with each other. Both the blade and the fence should be parallel to the slots in the table.
Hi. Thanks for the helpful video. However, I have a problem choosing a disc for my Dewalth 7485. It is a disc for precise cutting on both sides of laminated chipboard. Each decorated disc is cut precisely from the top and more or less chipped in the laminate from the bottom. I use a 24 and 52 tooth chainring. The one with 52 teeth has a diameter of 2.2 and gets stuck when cutting longer pieces. During conversations with various specialists, I heard that this saw (Dw 7485) will never cut perfectly on both sides because its disc speed is too low. Please write your opinion on this matter. Maybe you know about discs that can be cut perfectly on both sides and have the right diameter so that the pieces do not get stuck. Of course I use a wedge. Thank you .
For me you missed not using a feather board which I always do in place of the second push stick. Personally I have also attached a thin board to my fence that terminates just past the first tooth of the blade this means that my material is controlled by the fence but provides a small clearance at the rear of the blade preventing binding there, this works nicely. Nice video, but no mention of not removing the ant-kick back blade 🧐
Good tip, I haven’t seen that done before. I might include it in the follow up to this video. Can you expand on what you mean by not removing the anti-kickback blade? Thanks 😀
@@robw95 you are correct. It stops the board that is being cut from binding on the rear teeth that are rising up and have the potential to throw the board up so that it is gripped by the top teeth and thrown back towards the operative “ throwback”! Nice video by the way 👍
Very true, this was footage from a much older video. I did admit to making a lot of these mistakes myself when I started out. We’ll spotted though, I missed that one!
Good tips there. You're dewalt saw and portable stand...what is the height of the stand when folded and standing upright please. I'd like one but can't fing this measurement online. Thanks
For #3...what do you do you do as the wood gets thinner. Wouldn't you eventually have to bring the fence guard in close to the blade? Thanks for the great vid.
Very useful, thanks ! My biggest mistake is buying a dirt cheap saw, and then trying to laterally saw a long piece of quite thick wood, foolishly pushing on when things started to go heavy. The hapless saw gave up right away and was a total loss. Another biggest mistake was with one of these ancient saws where you raise the blade up with a handle underneath the table. I wasn't looking and grabbed next to the handle and against the running blade. Miraculously I got away with just a very minor cut right alongside my nail. Without this devil's luck, that moment could just as well have ended my piano career there and then.
I was using a JET 10" cast iron table saw for about 40 years when one day my fingers on my left hand slipped at the end of a cut. My middle finger is slightly thinner that other fingers, but not too bad. The Dr. did a great job. @@sumeraybuilds
@@sumeraybuilds Ok thanks. Makes sense. I have the same DeWalt 7485 with the factory blade. My DeWalt 12" miter has an 80t blade. I use table saw for ripping and Miter for x-cut. Would it still make sense to build a cross cut sled and upgrade to a fine table saw blade? And do you switch blades on your table saw depending on cuts? Or just keep the fine blade permanently installed?
As a newbie it’s important to know that there are those of us who’ve experienced kickback, and those of us who haven’t… yet. Rest assured that it will happen to you at some point. So make sure that with every cut you ever make for the rest of your life, you’re prepared for it. Treat each cut on the table saw as if this is the one that’s coming to get you. Stand to the side and out of the path of the wooden missile that’s coming. And use push sticks and/or feather boards so your hands won’t get pulled into the blade. When my first kickback incident happened, I did these things. And the 1x1x18 missile created flew right past and buried itself one inch into the wood wall behind me. Embarrassing and scary. Kinda pooped myself a little.
@@sumeraybuilds Me too! And I left the hole in the wall as a constant reminder to always be as safe as possible. S**t happens. Just don’t get any on your face.
@@sumeraybuilds in Belgium and the Netherlands it is mandated by insurance, safety and labour laws. But I notice in many tutorials at the US the abscence. Hence my question 🙂
Something worth thinking about is the difference between tools where one normally has one's hands on the tool, vs on the workpiece. So router tables vs hand held operations. Normally both hands on the tool are safer. So one really needs to understand the full range of potential disaster when approaching a router table vs, a hand held operation, and the same with table saws. There are so many potential traps, but just considering the differences is a worthwhile exercise.
That's an insightful observation! The distinction between tools where you hold the tool versus those where you handle the workpiece is significant, especially in terms of safety and control. In handheld operations, like using a router or circular saw, having both hands on the tool often offers more control and stability, reducing the risk of the tool slipping or moving unexpectedly. In contrast, with stationary tools like table saws or router tables, your hands are typically on the workpiece, introducing different safety considerations and requiring a different approach to control and precision. Understanding these differences is indeed vital for every woodworker, whether a beginner or a pro. It changes how we approach each tool, prepare for each task, and even how we train our reflexes and muscle memory in the workshop. Recognizing and respecting these variations can make a huge difference in both the quality of work and safety in the workshop. Thanks for highlighting this critical point - it’s definitely something worth pondering and discussing more in the woodworking community.
Was advised to never ever use the supplied pushstick as it only applies pressure at the back of the wood going through. The front can rise up leading to kickback - you can actually see this happen at 6:14 in your video. The design shown at 5:42 is much safer as it applies pressure much farther along the workpiece. Applying side pressure - if you stray too far forward you apply pressure against the blade, again leading to kickback.
You make an excellent point regarding the limitations of the supplied pushstick. The design at 5:42, is certainly the superior design. I am going to be making a video on how to make this in the near future. Thanks for your comment, and keep watching for that follow-up. I'm glad we have such a knowledgeable community checking me for this stuff!
I got in a hurry once and thought I could muscle a 2x through free hand cross cut and luckily the blade didn’t find me but the walloped me square in the chin
Mistake 3 - Im cutting 4.8m - 32mmx32mm into 4.8m 16mmx32mm, so Ive set the table saw to 14.5mm, which with test cuts gives me the almost perfect cut in half. This is for my new fencing and doing "lattice strips". I don't think the method you show in Mistake 3 would work for this because the cut is so close to the blade and fence. I get why you suggest it and if I do have a piece of wood I need to cut like your example I will follow your set up.
Considering the title of the video is for new woodworkers, empasis on using a blade guard and prawls should have been included. Blade guards and push sticks have saved so many injuries.
As a cabinet maker for nearly 40 years I find your advice on the height of your saw blade absolutely wrong, having the blade just below the surface of your piece will cause it to want to lift up off the table,especially if the blade is getting a bit blunt, however if you have it fully up the teeth are then cutting through the timber on a downward direction. Also using a guard over your blade is an absolute must unless you want a serious injury
I do say just above by a few mil, not below. Would you recommend a new woodworker does this? (set the blade high) or would you say this is more for the experienced, like yourself? And I take the point about the blade guard!
I do the same as you , i go. Fully up regardless. I've had no problems. Problem i. Have is people trying to make money or getting tools for nothing because they release pointless shit vids
@@Poikka65i love comments like this, so constructive and reasonable, maybe learn a bit of grammar before trying again, and whilst you're at it, try and be a better human being.
I agree with you, and I'm also a cabinetmaker. Ripping lumber with the blade all the way up, AND the guard on, is the safest way. That tall blade is clamping the wood as it's being cut. When it comes to crosscutting though, you want the blade at the height that delivers the best cut quality for the type of wood and thickness that it is.
I was a little surprised on the blade height comment. I had always thought you wanted the bottom of the blade gullet just above the top of the workpiece. No higher, no lower.
0:59 Making a crosscut in this way using the parallel fence as a stop is dangerous and a quite certain way of kickback. Better with a crosscut sled or a side rail table. Sorry, the video has good intentions but this is not a good example. Thank you and sorry for my English. Bye. Andrea
Freehand cutting is common, and can be done safely. Depends on the definition of "safe". probably compares well to the drive to work every day. I normally saw it done in the old days on rather low powered saws. One safety rule to understand is the massive difference in killing power of some saw with a 1/2 hp motor, and one with a 3-5 hp motor. The saw I grew up on, and made mistakes on was a 3/4 hp saw and when I screwed up, if I just held my position it would kick out the breaker. No such luck with a 220 volt saw. And this may be a difference in culture. Mains voltage over here is 110. 220 saws are drawing on twice the amperage. Maybe working in the UK, one would run into same nasty determination in the local saws due to the 220 volt household electricity. Freehand cutting, which I don't recommend, often goes wrong about the same way kickback on a worm drive does. Doable. The problem is there is only one worm drive, with table saws there is a range from battery to 10HP. And the range of available workpieces isn't just dimensional lumber either.
Interesting take on freehand cutting. You're absolutely right that it can be done safely, but as you pointed out, it's all about understanding the tool's power and respecting its capabilities. The contrast in power between different saws is a crucial factor. Those experiences with a lower-powered saw definitely teach valuable lessons in handling and safety that aren't as forgiving with more powerful machines. Your point about the differences in mains voltage and its impact on saw power is quite enlightening too. It's a reminder of how regional variations, like the standard 220V in the UK versus 110V in many other places, can significantly affect the behavior of our tools. As always, safety first and understanding your equipment is key, especially when venturing into techniques like freehand cutting. Thanks for sharing your experiences and insights - they add a lot of depth to the conversation around woodworking safety and practices!
I still have a scar over one of my ribs where my old Ryobi caught me letting my mind wander and threw a chunk of plywood at me. For about a minute there I couldn't breathe ... quite a long minute! Lesson 1: stay out of the plane of the blade. Let it throw wood past you, not at you. Lesson 2: pay attention!
Standard advice on blade height was always that you wanted the gullet to be above the work piece. Not sure who invented that rule or if it still holds. EU rules and safety arrangements were always a lot more up to date than the 1930 culture in the US. Where the saws in main use date back almost to the Model T. However, it has to be noted that there is a significant change in geometry if one lowers the saw blade to the same height above, with thinner and thicker wood. On thin wood it becomes almost all rearward thrusts, and the cut angle may also change blow out on the workpiece depending on the changing exit angle of the blade. Safety wise, with the right approach, blade height above is irrelevant.
Great insights on blade height, and you're right about the changing dynamics with different wood thicknesses. The 'gullet above the workpiece' rule does have its roots in older saw practices, but the evolving technology and safety standards, especially in the EU, have indeed brought about new perspectives. It's fascinating to see how regional differences and historical practices shape our approach to woodworking. Safety, as you mentioned, is paramount, and understanding the impact of blade height is a key aspect of that. Appreciate your thoughtful comment and adding to this important discussion!
People talk about kickback. There are two different kinds. One is where the primary risk is the object hitting one, this can be fatal on powerful saws. I got hit once from a 3 hp, and did a calculation, and while I forget how it came out, it was up there with being shot. Thankfully it was more the size of a boxing glove and not a bullet. The workpiece came out at about the speed of an arrow, around 200 fps. But an arrow weighs over an ounce, this thing was probably at least a pound. You are getting hit like a 22 lr. The other form is now you see it now you don't. In this scenario which can happen, on table saws, router tables, jointers, and shapers, etc... You are pushing the workpiece through, and all of a sudden it isn't there. This is why using push stick is so important . You are pushing often towards the blades if you loose the support of the workpiece, often you end up in the blades. It is critical to maintain a neutral balance, be sure that if that workpiece were not there, you will not advance on the cutters. You take something like a guy sharpening up some tomato stakes on his table saw, freehand. He is 4 feet back from the action, and using the saw like a pencil sharpener... Madness! they say. But some guy who looks like the cover photo on FWW and making a cut on a piece that is just a little too short, too thick, and too wide, that guy may end up in the morgue. The keys for newbies is to proceed with caution, and resist the temptation when your main tool is a TS of pushing it too far.
Absolutely spot-on about the different types of kickback, and the risks associated with each. Understanding these nuances is crucial for every woodworker's safety. The first type you mentioned, where the workpiece is ejected towards the operator, is indeed dangerously powerful. It's a vivid reminder of the respect we need to have for the power of these tools. Your experience sounds quite harrowing, and it's a stark illustration of why safety precautions are non-negotiable. The second type, the 'now you see it, now you don't' scenario, is equally dangerous but often less discussed. This sudden disappearance of the workpiece can lead to a loss of balance and control, potentially causing the operator's hands to move towards the blade. As you pointed out, push sticks and maintaining a neutral balance are essential in these situations. Your example of sharpening tomato stakes freehand on a table saw is a vivid image of what not to do. And you're absolutely right - sometimes, it's the seemingly experienced or confident woodworker who ends up taking dangerous shortcuts or pushing the tool beyond its safe limits. Your advice for newbies to proceed with caution and not push their tools too far is golden. It's a reminder that safety should always be the top priority in any woodworking project. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience - it's a valuable lesson for us all!
If none of your plywood is square and if you building isn’t square then you have to freehand everything, I’ve done it already many times , but I can see how dangerous it can be
Yeah, when things aren't square, improvisation becomes the name of the game. But remember, with great power (tools) comes great responsibility. Stay safe out there 😎🛠️
You just made a big mistake there at about 6:10!!! Support the board with your hand and push it with your hand until the end of the board is up on the table, *then* use your push stick. Look at what happend to the board on the blade right at 6:12: precursor to a kickback!!! But, in my opinion, overall it's a pretty good video and anyone using a table saw should be periodically looking up videos such as this, reviewing, thinking about safety, making sure they are operating safely. Time very, very well spent!
Blades - more teeth not necessarily better in a table saw . Diablo makes a ripping blade specifically designed for ripping / table saw . Check them out . A bit cheaper and actually out performs a combination blade used in mitre / table saw
You're correct in noting that a higher tooth count blade and a lower tooth count blade on a saw will rotate at the same RPM if used on the same machine. However, the "speed" of cutting doesn't solely depend on the RPM or the number of teeth alone. Here's a bit more context: Cutting Action per Tooth: With a higher tooth count blade, each tooth removes less material with each pass. This is because the teeth are more closely spaced, and each one has less opportunity to bite into the material. In contrast, a blade with fewer teeth will have more space between teeth, allowing each tooth to remove more material with each pass. Type of Cut Desired: Higher tooth count blades are typically used for finer, cleaner cuts, such as those needed in finish carpentry. These blades cut slower because they are designed to produce a smoother finish, which requires a more gradual, less aggressive cutting action. Lower tooth count blades are used for rougher, quicker cuts where finish quality is less of a concern, like in framing or initial rough cuts in woodworking. Heat and Friction: Higher tooth count blades can generate more heat due to the increased number of teeth engaging the material, which can lead to burning or melting in some materials like plastics or laminates. This necessitates a slower feed rate to prevent overheating. Material Type: The material being cut also plays a role. Softer materials might be cut quickly with a high tooth count blade, but harder materials might require a slower feed rate to prevent blade wear or poor quality cuts. In summary, while higher tooth count blades may engage the material more frequently due to having more teeth, each tooth engages less aggressively and removes less material per pass. This often results in a need for a slower feed rate, particularly when a cleaner, finer cut is desired.
@@sumeraybuilds doesn't the quantity of material removed by each tooth vary by the feed rate? Never tried it, but I would expect more chipping if you feed a higher teeth count too aggressively and the opposite ie less chipping if you keep a very slow feed rate even with a low tooth count blade.
1st no blade height, should be set according to type of material your cutting. 2nd kick back have nothing to do with how close your fence is to the blade. Kick back are caused by the blade binding, this happens when you are feeding the materials to fast & putting unequal pressure on the material you are cutting. 3rd free hand cutting is can be done safely, by feeding the material slowly & smoothly though 4th scene with the push sticks, notice how the material wanted to climb off the saw blade & how the material didn't feed smoothly that's because the blade was set to low
What about removing the guard over the blade, seems like one of the biggest mistakes in the video but is not mentioned att all in the video although all of the cuts had it removed.
I’ve used my circular saw under a mobile workbench for 20 years and it’s only last week that I counted the number of teeth. Twelve. No need to say that I immediately ordered another blade. I had to wait for RUclips to realize that the stock blade is not to be kept.
RESPECT POWERTOOLS AND NEVER RISK YOUR LIMBS BEING STUPID AS I WAS! Worst thing I ever did: put the table saw on the platform before the door and stand on the steps (lower) to make cuts. I had my left hand on the left side of the blade and a stick in the other to push. I felt resistance, stopped pushing, then started again and when the board was almost through I moved my left hand thumb behind the blade to get the last bit through (1/2"). The blade pulled the wood back with my thumb on it. Fortunately the blade was 1/8" above the wood, otherwise my thumb would have been severely damaged if not severed! I still had 3 nasty cuts & stitches. I've been very lucky and I'll never use the table saw that way again AND use 2 push sticks
0:58 A cut like that is a massive kickback that will hit you in the gut just waiting to happen. NEVER make a cut that can twist the workpiece into the blade, and if at all possible, don't stand directly in the "line of fire", should a kickback happen!
Some good tips, but watching you cut across the grain with the wood against the fence (and without the miter gauge is a common new woodworker problem. Trust me, the first time you have a board kick back right into your thigh (or family jewels), you will never do that again.
It’s a very good idea to NOT put your body directly behind the blade. In the event of a kickback at least you won’t take one in the gut (or the Wedding Tackle). I have an old Delta Rockwell that was abandoned for years. I cleaned up the table, rebuilt the extension table and added a Router Fixture in the extension. It’s a 3 horse Baldor motor and a friend rewound it for me at his motor shop (RIP George). That thing hit a knot in a rather twisted piece of wood I was trying to salvage and launched it WHANG right past me and went through the drywall ten feet behind me. Glad I wasn’t standing in its way. That was before I even heard of a Riving knife. Years ago. Only real Table Saw Mishap I ever had. (So Far) . In still have that TANK of a saw, but now I use my little Dewalt Jobsite saw pretty much exclusively. Cheers.
@@coltonsmith1561 George was a very good man. As I recall he charged me 80 bucks. He did it in his spare time. I went into his shop with the intention of buying a new motor. There’s no doubt in my mind that motor will be around for a VERY long time. It’s already been over twenty years. Cheers.
Tip 9 use the damn guard. All of youtube "woodworkers" don't use a guard yet they should. Seriously in some very rare occasions a guard is in the way, but every youtuber basically runs without a guard with a stupid reason... people can't see the cutting then... To all those people I will say this. I will not shed a single tear if you lose a finger or more. People fail to realise that it's a machine you should respect and have your focus with ALL the time. If you feel something goes on autopilot it's time to do something else. If you are in a hurry... do something else. The second you don't respect it mistakes are being made and injuries happen. You can do it right a million times but you only need to do it wrong once.
Uno, it wasn’t until another guy pointed this out that I even knew I did this. And now watching it back it annoys me! I do catch myself doing it now and ‘go ahead’ and re-record those bits haha
Are you aware that within 3-4 years all table saws will need to include safety features to prevent the thousands of horrific table saw injuries we have every year? Correction: Applies only to the USA
This guy rattles on about mistakes but at time mark 0:58 he is cross cutting a narrow board with the rip fence. NEVER EVER DO THIS!!!!!. I've run table saws for 56 years as a pro and I HAVE ALL MY FINGERS. Yes you can cut thin strips. Use the kirf slot insert and feed wood keeping it against fence until splitter engaged. Take care not to push too hard causing over riding of blade and have a push stick that is as thin as the rip. I think the push sticks here are a bit long. I prefer a wood one. Less nonsense if blade hits it. If you are using one of these little saws be d_____ sure it will not move. Hang a concrete block from it. Always use a splitter, unless you can't. Never stand in line with the blade. Saves your gentleman parts. Wear eye AND EAR protection. And if something goes wrong DO NOT TRY TO SAVE IT. Jump out of the way and pull your hands to your chest.
You are all wrong. The blade needs to be up so as to produce a good clean cut with the least possibility of kick back. Use blade guard cover fo safety, and keep your hands away from the blade. The blade is best cutting downwards not horisontally.
Always good to have more woodworking material on youtube, but there were a few things I wanted to point out. First, at about a minute in to the meeting you do a cross cut with the butt of the board against the fence. This is a big hazard when using a table saw, as you can easy get out of 90 degrees on the board, have it bind between the saw and fence, the saw kicks back the board and maybe even rides up (less likely with the riving knife) and pulls your hand into the blade causing an amputation. Also, not using a blade guard is a big hazard, though is common and what makes the table saw the most dangerous saw in the shop. Finally, your advice to use a many toothed blade is incomplete. A many toothed blade is good for crosscutting but not for ripping. You want fewer teeth with larger gullets on a rip cut. Having a high tooth count blade for ripping will cause burning and will make the saw struggle and perhaps even stall. For how you were using your table saw, for both types of cuts, the best advice would be to get a combination blade that works relatively well for both cuts.
Thanks for the in-depth feedback! I appreciate it, every day is a school day! 😁
That is the first thing I noticed, the crosscut without the miter gauge, and using the rip fence as the stop. I’m not new to the table saw, but, sorry to say, this was about enough for me to wonder why am I watching this?
Totally agree with your comments (I had noticed the same and was about to make the same comments).
Wrong use of a table saw = amputated fingers.
I would invite the author of this video to review it or delete it - sorry body!
Im new to woodworking, trying to learn as much as possible. Could you please reference the exact time in the video where that mistake ocured? Thanks!
@@milosgrujic9118 I'll try to describe the hazard: Suppose you want to cut a 4" wide (100 mm) strip into sections 1 foot (300 mm) long. Do Not set the fence 1 foot from the blade and then push the strip through the blade while keeping one end in contact with the fence. The offcut can rotate slightly and get trapped between the fence and the blade. The offcut will then be thrown violently back toward you. This is the worst type of kickback. If you happen to be holding the offcut with one hand, it is very likely that your hand will be drawn into the blade with very bad results.
I know a long-time woodworker who lost the ends of three fingers when something like this happened. It can happen very fast, like Bang! and it's all over.
Thanks for this video. Some I knew and learned a few new. Take care & stay safe.
Glad to hear it! Thanks 😀
I've heard quite a few before, but I got a couple of more than welcome advices I'll be taking into account from now on. Thanks!
Thanks 🙏
Notice in the push stick demo he doesn’t continue to push on the wood after it hits the blade? It’s not mentioned, but it’s important! The three directions of pressure stop as soon as that part of the wood begins to split. Pushing it toward the *blade* is a good way to damage your blade or, worse, get kickback.
Also, don’t be scared. Just go slow and *know where your hands are at all times* and you’ll do fine. The info is overwhelming but it comes together when you start. The hobby is as satisfying as you think it will be! ❤❤ Happy making to all of us safety nerds!
Thanks for the extra explanation 🙏
I’m a hand tools guy (as I can’t afford power tools yet!) but this is genuinely invaluable advice and I’ll be taking it all onboard when I eventually get a table saw. Earned my like and a subscription 👍
Awesome, glad to earn you as a sub. Thanks!
It is a bad advice, forget it.
@@tonylawrence9157 do you offer advice on you tube?
Good ideas, techniques to perhaps incorporate into my future woodworking repertoire. Many thanks for sharing. 👍
Very welcome!
There is a benefit to raising the blade height: the cut angle is more downward. Less kickback velocity, should it occur. And of course you can make it safer by using the blade guard.
Very true, what I was getting at is for most people it’s worth getting into the habit of only having it set as high as it’s required to avoid accidents. You’re right about the blade guard, I don’t use it nearly as much as I should!
6:21
I'm sorry but I have to disagree with your observation. Kick back originates at the rear of the blade, not the front or the top! A high set blade would increase the velocity, not reduce it. Having said that, I agree a high set blade AND a correctly fitted riving knife and guard is the safest method for RIPPING. Stay safe and keep all your fingers.
Thanks. Great safety advice. 😊
Thanks 🙏
I love your videos!!! I especially like that palm router table in cert for the table saw! I’m going to make one right now.👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Good luck! 🤞
Subscribed as soon as I’ve heard metric, thank you very much!
Glad to hear it! Welcome aboard!
It's very good to emphasise the safety considerations for power tools. I have been woodworking as an amateur for nearly 60 years but the accident I just had came out of nowhere and happened so fast I was unable to do anything to mitigate the injury. I was using a palm router with a slotting cutter to make biscuit recesses in some oak. The oak moved in the clamps and the cutter exited the slot and attacked my left hand really fast (the tip speed of the cutter I calculated was about 40 mph). I think myself lucky to still have a left thumb with much thanks to the plastic surgeons. There was some doubt initially that it could be saved.
Really sorry to hear about your close call with the router, but glad you still have your thumb to tell the tale! It just goes to show, even with 60 years in the game, power tools can still throw us a curveball. It's like they say, respect the tool, fear the injury. Thanks for sharing your story - it's a solid reminder for all of us woodworkers to keep our wits about us, even when doing the 'simple' stuff. Here's to safer routing and thumbs up for plastic surgeons!
Excellent, handy and honestly! Many thanks for tips! Merry Christmas!
Glad it was helpful! Merry Christmas!
Nice video. I’ve got an old beast of a table saw which has no fence and just about cuts at 90 Deg’s but I’m thinking of getting the DWE 7492 so finding a UK based DWE user is going to be very helpful. Subscribed!
You 100% won’t regret getting a Dewalt Table Saw! Glad you’ve subbed 😀 you might want to consider the rolling stand too, it’s usually cheaper to buy them in a bundle.
Enjoyed the video - very informative.
Glad you enjoyed it!
All good advice. Just getting to grips with my Dewalt.
Glad to hear it! You had me worried for a second there 😂
Great tip! Only thing I'd add is that if you're using a small saw to rip thick lumber, it's a good idea to get a dedicated rip blade. Much less work for the saw.
Good tip thanks! 😁
If you are cutting thick material, the best approach is to make a shallow cut then raise the blade a little bit and make a second cut and keep repeating until the board is sawn through. Another tip would be after each cut I mentioned above, rotate the workpiece end over end to keep the same edge against the fence and make another cut at the same height. In this way the cut will progress into the board from both sides and meet roughly in the middle.
great tips!
Glad you think so!
Thank's from Poland!
😁 thanks!
when you are pushing the pieces thru with your push stick, it should be closer to the blade. by putting it close to the fence, you could be inadvertently causing the board to rotate slightly and potentially causing kickback.
Good tip, thanks! 😀
Blimey - I bought one of these last year done at LEAST 2 things wrong and survived - so far SUBSCRIBED!
Awesome thanks!
Aligning the blade and fence should be the first tip not the last. Also, thin stops, as narrow as 1/8" can be cut safely and consistently using a GRRIPPER or the like which also doubles as a safer push device than any push stick
They’re not necessarily in order of importance. But good tip, thanks for sharing!
Cut the thin pieces on the left and use the guage and account for blade thickness.
Well, as a professional you leave the complte teeth looking right out the piece (about 1cm)
Also the fine wood blade is used for cuts against the direction of the grain, those with less teeth with its direction! If You use a fine wood blade in the same direction you will need more force, (as shown in 6:10) which hightens the danger of kickback and reduces its longlivety 🤷♂
Blades delivered by manufacturers are mostly something inbetween, that means that cuts in both directions are mediocre ...MEH!
And "Thou not shall cut long pieces perpendicular to the blade along the rip fence, AMEN!" - that has an extremly high risk of kickback because the contact surface is just too small to really keep it stable (same problem you explained the freehand cuttting 👏) - always use the miter gauge!!!
AND ALWAYS USE THE SAFETY CAP!!!
But the rest is really pretty neat 😊 👍
Thanks for the pro tips! Definitely don't want my saw to have a longer life than me!
Good video
Glad you enjoyed! 🙏
Haven't even got a table saw yet, but definitely heeding your warning - like button clicked! :)
Have you decided which one? The Dewalt is my recommendation but the Evolution is also good for the lower price.
@@sumeraybuilds Would love the Dewalt - I've been saving up as the extending table really has me set on it, but as you've done in your videos, getting a basic table saw may be the first step
Have pulled the trigger on the rage 5 now for Christmas...Will be here tomorrow. At least I can start playing with it over next week if I can motivate myself to get out in the cold 🥶
Congrats! And fair play for braving the cold!!
Hi - Tip 2 - Having your saw blade too high above your wood. I disagree with you saying there is never a reason to have it high. There are two reasons.
1 - When the saw is lower the direction of the front of the blade ( the half in front of the centre hole ) is pushing the wood towards you. The back half is also pushing the wood towards you - therefore more likely for the blade to accelerate the wood towards you. When the blade is fully raised the front half is pushing the wood down towards the table and less towards you. The downwards angle of the cutting teeth at the front is perpendicular (almost) to the table, heading downwards. When the blade is lower the direction is more of a 45 to the table heading more towards you.
2 - Second reason. A lower blade exposes the wood to more friction from the teeth, more likely to cause burning, than a fully raised blade, that has less surface area of the cutting edge touching the wood. Again, a lower blade has the cutting teeth going across the wood at about 45 degrees, while the higher blade has the teeth closer to 90 degrees. The lower blade exposes the wood to more of it being exposed to friction - more likely to cause burning marks.
3 - Did I say, two? I meant three. A lower blade makes it easier for the wood to climb on top of the blade and get fired towards you. A higher blade is harder to get kick back from as the wood has to climb further to get on top of the blade ( the position that most likely effects a kick back).
The simplest way to visualize the above is get a piece of wood and put the blade against it with the teeth only just touching the top. Draw a like around the blade. Add arrows to the line to see the direction of the force. Also measure the amount of the line on the wood. Now repeat with the blade high. See the shorter length of blade touching wood and the arrow directions of the force applied. It becomes self evident at that point.
There are times to have a lower blade, and times to have a higher blade. Ive found teaching others that less kick backs and wood climbs occur with a higher blade. Good push sticks mitigate the issue of hands being exposed to the blade. If your hand touches the blade, with a low blade its still a mess and your hand shouldn't have been there. If the wood is whipped away, a low blade is still tall enough to cut off fingers or transect hands as soon as the wood is 10 -15 mm (half inch) or more.
Thanks for your detailed insights on blade height adjustments on table saws - it's always great to broaden our woodworking knowledge. I don't consider myself an expert so always happy to hear from helpful people!
You make some valid points about the benefits of a higher blade setting, particularly in terms of the direction of force and reduced wood friction. It's interesting to note how the angle of the blade impacts the direction of force and the potential for burning or kickback. Your perspective on how a higher blade can decrease the likelihood of kickback and wood climbing is particularly thought-provoking.
I appreciate your emphasis on the use of good push sticks and the importance of hand safety, regardless of blade height. Safety always comes first, and it's crucial to remember that accidents can happen at any blade height if proper precautions aren't taken.
It's discussions like these that remind us woodworking is as much about personal experience and technique as it is about following general guidelines. There's always something new to learn or a different perspective to consider, and that's part of what makes woodworking such a rich and rewarding activity.
Again, thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience. It's contributions like yours that make the woodworking community so valuable.
@@sumeraybuilds He is absolutely spot on regarding blade height, you really want the teeth cutting down on the wood and not towards you. One of the reasons you should have a positive rake blade in a table saw and not a negative rake one ( for radial arm saws and mitre saws). I see far too many RUclips saying you only need 1 or 2mm sticking above the wood, no wonder people bang on about kickback if that's how they are running saws. In 40 years of using all types of saws and cutting thousands and thousands of pieces of wood of all sizes I can honestly say I could count on my fingers the times I've had any kind of kick back and I've never had a piece of wood come shooting back off the saw that for sure !! Its the difference in being properly trained and RUclips trained . Also you don't want those ridiculous push stick things with a handle I see so many on RUclips using, your hand gets far too close to the blade at the end of the cut and they simply are not safe. Use proper wooden push sticks in the shape you have around 450mm long, they will keep your hands and fingers a lot safer.
The bottom of the gullet at the top of the wood is perfect for me I have found.
👌👌
Using a higher blade height shortens the distance each tooth must travel through the wood and to some extent reduces the load on the blade. A higher blade will also reduce the tendency for some "problem wood" to burn, and it will reduce the tendency of the wood to lift 6:10. A good push stick should contact the wood over enough length to prevent lifting. The ones used in this video offer practically no resistance to lifting. --Old guy
Love the tip on cutting thin strips of wood using the miter gauge as a gauge measuring block!
Glad you liked it 👍
Great video fella, more safety video the better
Thanks so much! 🙏
Tnx for the video . Funny!
What blade you got on the Dewalt?
Glad you liked it! I switch between the factory blade for rough cuts and a Saxton for finer work. amzn.to/40oPwy8
They do a 60 teeth and 80 teeth that fit this saw perfectly. They’re very affordable too.
If your budget can stretch, I’ve heard good things about Dewalts Extreme range. Although I’ve not used them myself to confirm.
nooice!
😃
Buying one is the first!
Haha very true!
Excellent video - thank you. I do sometimes add pleasure, but mostly pressure. However, one does NOT align the fence to the blade. One aligns both the blade and the fence to the miter slot, because it is the only thing that is fixed in place.
😂😂😂 Great tip!
Thanks for another great video,. Can you share the blade that you use for the Dewalt 7485 please? I am looking to replace the factory fitted one with one with more teeth. Thanks.
I like the ERBAUER range from Screwfix, they offer very good value imo.
📽Videos Mentioned:
I'm trying to turn one british penny into £1,000! It's draining, time consuming and (I think) quite entertaining to watch me suffer... if you liked this video then I recommend checking it out here: ruclips.net/p/PLsGhK9mo4fwlpqm1vodORGz0PTyT3dPr7
Router Table: ruclips.net/video/P1o6ndSyrMM/видео.html
Cross Cut Sled: ruclips.net/video/b-ZocNX_dwA/видео.html
Zero Clearance Insert: ruclips.net/video/GHCefxbwz6A/видео.html
Storage Caddy: ruclips.net/video/Euppje3jM7I/видео.html
DeWalt Table Saw Unboxing & Calibrations: ruclips.net/video/7yfPlLjL2uU/видео.html
📽 Watch my Table Saw Reviews
Dewalt DWE4785: ruclips.net/video/8iJf-J56-a8/видео.html
Evolution RAGE5-S: ruclips.net/video/LUoqPYXiWCs/видео.html
Great safety video that starts with him cross cutting a board the is 10 inches long and 3 inches wide on the fence and then using his router jig with his finger just about touching the the bearing on the round over bit. Perfect.
👍
The router table made me laugh, I was thinking of doing exactly that and you've already done it. Nice.
Glad you liked it!
I watched several safety videos before using my table saw for the first time. I still made some mistakes. Best advice I got was to see the complete path of everything through the cut. My biggest mistake was I forgot to do that and ended up cutting into my fancy $65 push block because I didn't remember to crank the blade back down. That push block saved my hand, so I don't complain about investing in safety any more!
Kudos to your push block for taking one for the team! 😂
My be you learn to work with your saw first. You don't just by a saw and start cutting. Woodworking machinery is dangerous.
@tonylawrence9157 Sometimes that is how we learn. No harm done and I'll remember to check the blade height from now on.
Great info, but I think last but not least should have been first. Cheers
Fair enough!
The good thing about these videos they make you think about keeping safe after many years of using Power tools its easy to get blasy about them and not give them the attention they always require.
I’m glad they help! Thanks 🙏
You say that you should make sure the fence is parallel to the blade. That is true, but not how anyone should think about it because it is not enough that they are parallel with each other. Both the blade and the fence should be parallel to the slots in the table.
Very good point! You're 100% RIGHT!
Hi. Thanks for the helpful video. However, I have a problem choosing a disc for my Dewalth 7485. It is a disc for precise cutting on both sides of laminated chipboard. Each decorated disc is cut precisely from the top and more or less chipped in the laminate from the bottom. I use a 24 and 52 tooth chainring. The one with 52 teeth has a diameter of 2.2 and gets stuck when cutting longer pieces. During conversations with various specialists, I heard that this saw (Dw 7485) will never cut perfectly on both sides because its disc speed is too low. Please write your opinion on this matter. Maybe you know about discs that can be cut perfectly on both sides and have the right diameter so that the pieces do not get stuck. Of course I use a wedge. Thank you .
I can't say I've experienced the issue, that I have noticed. I mainly use the factor blade for most of my cutting.
@@sumeraybuilds ok. Thanks.
For me you missed not using a feather board which I always do in place of the second push stick. Personally I have also attached a thin board to my fence that terminates just past the first tooth of the blade this means that my material is controlled by the fence but provides a small clearance at the rear of the blade preventing binding there, this works nicely. Nice video, but no mention of not removing the ant-kick back blade 🧐
Good tip, I haven’t seen that done before. I might include it in the follow up to this video. Can you expand on what you mean by not removing the anti-kickback blade? Thanks 😀
@@sumeraybuilds hi, the splitter ( anti kickback) many people remove it to cut something like a rabbet all along a timber.
Ah! Understood! I'm considering making a follow up video to this one and may include that! Thanks for pointing it out!
@@billgwilliam1263 that’s also called a riving knife, right? I’m new and just trying to learn the vocabulary.
@@robw95 you are correct. It stops the board that is being cut from binding on the rear teeth that are rising up and have the potential to throw the board up so that it is gripped by the top teeth and thrown back towards the operative “ throwback”! Nice video by the way 👍
0:58 is clearly not a cross cut agains the fence.
Very true, this was footage from a much older video. I did admit to making a lot of these mistakes myself when I started out. We’ll spotted though, I missed that one!
Good tips there.
You're dewalt saw and portable stand...what is the height of the stand when folded and standing upright please. I'd like one but can't fing this measurement online. Thanks
Thanks. The stand totals 92cm tall whilst the table saw sits lower at 75cm.
@sumeraybuilds thanks so much. Gutted as I don't think it'll fit under my workbench 🤣
@@meallbhansounds like ya need to build a new bench then! Worth it for the saw
I agree, it's worth rejigging your workshop slightly to fit this table saw in. If that's possible anyway!
@sumeraybuilds I measured the height available under my workbench again.....I have 924mm available. So fingers crossed it will maybe just fit!
For #3...what do you do you do as the wood gets thinner. Wouldn't you eventually have to bring the fence guard in close to the blade? Thanks for the great vid.
Yes if the peice was already thin to start with I would just cut it on the other side :D
Very useful, thanks ! My biggest mistake is buying a dirt cheap saw, and then trying to laterally saw a long piece of quite thick wood, foolishly pushing on when things started to go heavy. The hapless saw gave up right away and was a total loss. Another biggest mistake was with one of these ancient saws where you raise the blade up with a handle underneath the table. I wasn't looking and grabbed next to the handle and against the running blade. Miraculously I got away with just a very minor cut right alongside my nail. Without this devil's luck, that moment could just as well have ended my piano career there and then.
Looks like those saws were no match for your determination! But hey, at least you have some interesting stories to tell now.😂
I was using a JET 10" cast iron table saw for about 40 years when one day my fingers on my left hand slipped at the end of a cut. My middle finger is slightly thinner that other fingers, but not too bad. The Dr. did a great job. @@sumeraybuilds
Does it make sense to make and use a crosscut sled if you have a miter saw that's easily accessible?
I would say so, a sled prevents tear out and is especially useful if you’re making repetitive cuts because you can attach a stop block
@@sumeraybuilds Ok thanks. Makes sense. I have the same DeWalt 7485 with the factory blade. My DeWalt 12" miter has an 80t blade. I use table saw for ripping and Miter for x-cut. Would it still make sense to build a cross cut sled and upgrade to a fine table saw blade? And do you switch blades on your table saw depending on cuts? Or just keep the fine blade permanently installed?
As a newbie it’s important to know that there are those of us who’ve experienced kickback, and those of us who haven’t… yet.
Rest assured that it will happen to you at some point. So make sure that with every cut you ever make for the rest of your life, you’re prepared for it. Treat each cut on the table saw as if this is the one that’s coming to get you.
Stand to the side and out of the path of the wooden missile that’s coming. And use push sticks and/or feather boards so your hands won’t get pulled into the blade.
When my first kickback incident happened, I did these things. And the 1x1x18 missile created flew right past and buried itself one inch into the wood wall behind me. Embarrassing and scary. Kinda pooped myself a little.
Solid advise! Glad the projectile missed you!
@@sumeraybuilds
Me too! And I left the hole in the wall as a constant reminder to always be as safe as possible.
S**t happens. Just don’t get any on your face.
😂 rather a hole in the wall that your abdomen!
Why do I allways miss the safety cap over the blade? Is it only in Belgium that it is obliged?
I think the blade guard is mandated in the EU, but I’m not an expert on the laws. It’s good practice to always use it.
@@sumeraybuilds in Belgium and the Netherlands it is mandated by insurance, safety and labour laws. But I notice in many tutorials at the US the abscence. Hence my question 🙂
It's obligatory for professionals but highly, really highly recommended for amateurs
Something worth thinking about is the difference between tools where one normally has one's hands on the tool, vs on the workpiece. So router tables vs hand held operations. Normally both hands on the tool are safer. So one really needs to understand the full range of potential disaster when approaching a router table vs, a hand held operation, and the same with table saws. There are so many potential traps, but just considering the differences is a worthwhile exercise.
That's an insightful observation! The distinction between tools where you hold the tool versus those where you handle the workpiece is significant, especially in terms of safety and control.
In handheld operations, like using a router or circular saw, having both hands on the tool often offers more control and stability, reducing the risk of the tool slipping or moving unexpectedly. In contrast, with stationary tools like table saws or router tables, your hands are typically on the workpiece, introducing different safety considerations and requiring a different approach to control and precision.
Understanding these differences is indeed vital for every woodworker, whether a beginner or a pro. It changes how we approach each tool, prepare for each task, and even how we train our reflexes and muscle memory in the workshop. Recognizing and respecting these variations can make a huge difference in both the quality of work and safety in the workshop. Thanks for highlighting this critical point - it’s definitely something worth pondering and discussing more in the woodworking community.
Great tips👍 Fun game: Take a shot glass every time he says ‘Go Ahead’, and see if you can make it to the end without falling over😂
😂 Might 'go ahead' and try that!
Excellent video sir! Just found your channel organically - I subscrribed and my bladess DO seem sharpen since I hit the button!
Haha I’m glad to hear it! Welcome aboard!
I learned from my mistakes the hard way
Hope it wasn’t too dangerous!
Was advised to never ever use the supplied pushstick as it only applies pressure at the back of the wood going through. The front can rise up leading to kickback - you can actually see this happen at 6:14 in your video. The design shown at 5:42 is much safer as it applies pressure much farther along the workpiece. Applying side pressure - if you stray too far forward you apply pressure against the blade, again leading to kickback.
You make an excellent point regarding the limitations of the supplied pushstick. The design at 5:42, is certainly the superior design. I am going to be making a video on how to make this in the near future.
Thanks for your comment, and keep watching for that follow-up. I'm glad we have such a knowledgeable community checking me for this stuff!
I can't take credit for that idea, I learned it off Rob Cosman woodworking!!! Keep up the great videos!
I got in a hurry once and thought I could muscle a 2x through free hand cross cut and luckily the blade didn’t find me but the walloped me square in the chin
Ouch!
good content, but the kickback on certain cuts can be down to timber and if the fence runs parralell or tapers into to the saw blade.
Thanks 😃
If the fence runs parallel, you can get a free return, at least here in the EU.
I keep the blade up because I respect it more than when I don’t.
I keep the blade up.
👍😃
Please use the blade guard!
I do most the time
When he said "I'll show what I mean" I was really looking forward to seeing what applying lateral pleasure would look like...
Haha I’m trying to imagine what that might look like 😂
Mistake 3 - Im cutting 4.8m - 32mmx32mm into 4.8m 16mmx32mm, so Ive set the table saw to 14.5mm, which with test cuts gives me the almost perfect cut in half. This is for my new fencing and doing "lattice strips". I don't think the method you show in Mistake 3 would work for this because the cut is so close to the blade and fence. I get why you suggest it and if I do have a piece of wood I need to cut like your example I will follow your set up.
Good luck! I’d deffo suggest an outfeed table!
@@sumeraybuilds thanks already looking at fence support from above and both sides plus under support front and back.
Considering the title of the video is for new woodworkers, empasis on using a blade guard and prawls should have been included. Blade guards and push sticks have saved so many injuries.
I agree, I am thinking of making a follow up that will include the blade guard. Thanks!
As a cabinet maker for nearly 40 years I find your advice on the height of your saw blade absolutely wrong, having the blade just below the surface of your piece will cause it to want to lift up off the table,especially if the blade is getting a bit blunt, however if you have it fully up the teeth are then cutting through the timber on a downward direction. Also using a guard over your blade is an absolute must unless you want a serious injury
I do say just above by a few mil, not below. Would you recommend a new woodworker does this? (set the blade high) or would you say this is more for the experienced, like yourself? And I take the point about the blade guard!
I do the same as you , i go. Fully up regardless. I've had no problems. Problem i. Have is people trying to make money or getting tools for nothing because they release pointless shit vids
@@Poikka65i love comments like this, so constructive and reasonable, maybe learn a bit of grammar before trying again, and whilst you're at it, try and be a better human being.
I agree with you, and I'm also a cabinetmaker.
Ripping lumber with the blade all the way up, AND the guard on, is the safest way. That tall blade is clamping the wood as it's being cut.
When it comes to crosscutting though, you want the blade at the height that delivers the best cut quality for the type of wood and thickness that it is.
I was a little surprised on the blade height comment. I had always thought you wanted the bottom of the blade gullet just above the top of the workpiece. No higher, no lower.
Mistake #9: removing the blade guard
true
0:59 Making a crosscut in this way using the parallel fence as a stop is dangerous and a quite certain way of kickback. Better with a crosscut sled or a side rail table. Sorry, the video has good intentions but this is not a good example.
Thank you and sorry for my English. Bye. Andrea
Thanks 🙏
Freehand cutting is common, and can be done safely. Depends on the definition of "safe". probably compares well to the drive to work every day.
I normally saw it done in the old days on rather low powered saws. One safety rule to understand is the massive difference in killing power of some saw with a 1/2 hp motor, and one with a 3-5 hp motor. The saw I grew up on, and made mistakes on was a 3/4 hp saw and when I screwed up, if I just held my position it would kick out the breaker. No such luck with a 220 volt saw. And this may be a difference in culture. Mains voltage over here is 110. 220 saws are drawing on twice the amperage. Maybe working in the UK, one would run into same nasty determination in the local saws due to the 220 volt household electricity.
Freehand cutting, which I don't recommend, often goes wrong about the same way kickback on a worm drive does. Doable. The problem is there is only one worm drive, with table saws there is a range from battery to 10HP. And the range of available workpieces isn't just dimensional lumber either.
Interesting take on freehand cutting. You're absolutely right that it can be done safely, but as you pointed out, it's all about understanding the tool's power and respecting its capabilities. The contrast in power between different saws is a crucial factor. Those experiences with a lower-powered saw definitely teach valuable lessons in handling and safety that aren't as forgiving with more powerful machines.
Your point about the differences in mains voltage and its impact on saw power is quite enlightening too. It's a reminder of how regional variations, like the standard 220V in the UK versus 110V in many other places, can significantly affect the behavior of our tools.
As always, safety first and understanding your equipment is key, especially when venturing into techniques like freehand cutting. Thanks for sharing your experiences and insights - they add a lot of depth to the conversation around woodworking safety and practices!
I still have a scar over one of my ribs where my old Ryobi caught me letting my mind wander and threw a chunk of plywood at me. For about a minute there I couldn't breathe ... quite a long minute!
Lesson 1: stay out of the plane of the blade. Let it throw wood past you, not at you.
Lesson 2: pay attention!
Ouch! Glad you got away with just a minor injury! Stay safe!
Standard advice on blade height was always that you wanted the gullet to be above the work piece. Not sure who invented that rule or if it still holds. EU rules and safety arrangements were always a lot more up to date than the 1930 culture in the US. Where the saws in main use date back almost to the Model T. However, it has to be noted that there is a significant change in geometry if one lowers the saw blade to the same height above, with thinner and thicker wood. On thin wood it becomes almost all rearward thrusts, and the cut angle may also change blow out on the workpiece depending on the changing exit angle of the blade. Safety wise, with the right approach, blade height above is irrelevant.
Great insights on blade height, and you're right about the changing dynamics with different wood thicknesses. The 'gullet above the workpiece' rule does have its roots in older saw practices, but the evolving technology and safety standards, especially in the EU, have indeed brought about new perspectives. It's fascinating to see how regional differences and historical practices shape our approach to woodworking. Safety, as you mentioned, is paramount, and understanding the impact of blade height is a key aspect of that. Appreciate your thoughtful comment and adding to this important discussion!
People talk about kickback. There are two different kinds. One is where the primary risk is the object hitting one, this can be fatal on powerful saws. I got hit once from a 3 hp, and did a calculation, and while I forget how it came out, it was up there with being shot. Thankfully it was more the size of a boxing glove and not a bullet. The workpiece came out at about the speed of an arrow, around 200 fps. But an arrow weighs over an ounce, this thing was probably at least a pound. You are getting hit like a 22 lr.
The other form is now you see it now you don't. In this scenario which can happen, on table saws, router tables, jointers, and shapers, etc... You are pushing the workpiece through, and all of a sudden it isn't there. This is why using push stick is so important . You are pushing often towards the blades if you loose the support of the workpiece, often you end up in the blades. It is critical to maintain a neutral balance, be sure that if that workpiece were not there, you will not advance on the cutters.
You take something like a guy sharpening up some tomato stakes on his table saw, freehand. He is 4 feet back from the action, and using the saw like a pencil sharpener... Madness! they say. But some guy who looks like the cover photo on FWW and making a cut on a piece that is just a little too short, too thick, and too wide, that guy may end up in the morgue. The keys for newbies is to proceed with caution, and resist the temptation when your main tool is a TS of pushing it too far.
Absolutely spot-on about the different types of kickback, and the risks associated with each. Understanding these nuances is crucial for every woodworker's safety.
The first type you mentioned, where the workpiece is ejected towards the operator, is indeed dangerously powerful. It's a vivid reminder of the respect we need to have for the power of these tools. Your experience sounds quite harrowing, and it's a stark illustration of why safety precautions are non-negotiable.
The second type, the 'now you see it, now you don't' scenario, is equally dangerous but often less discussed. This sudden disappearance of the workpiece can lead to a loss of balance and control, potentially causing the operator's hands to move towards the blade. As you pointed out, push sticks and maintaining a neutral balance are essential in these situations.
Your example of sharpening tomato stakes freehand on a table saw is a vivid image of what not to do. And you're absolutely right - sometimes, it's the seemingly experienced or confident woodworker who ends up taking dangerous shortcuts or pushing the tool beyond its safe limits.
Your advice for newbies to proceed with caution and not push their tools too far is golden. It's a reminder that safety should always be the top priority in any woodworking project. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience - it's a valuable lesson for us all!
If none of your plywood is square and if you building isn’t square then you have to freehand everything, I’ve done it already many times , but I can see how dangerous it can be
Yeah, when things aren't square, improvisation becomes the name of the game. But remember, with great power (tools) comes great responsibility. Stay safe out there 😎🛠️
Free handing sounds like a bad idea regardless of the situation. Making one cut to make a square edge, then cutting relative to it, is better advice.
*Sees router table*
*Subscribes immediately*
Haha thanks 🤩
You just made a big mistake there at about 6:10!!! Support the board with your hand and push it with your hand until the end of the board is up on the table, *then* use your push stick. Look at what happend to the board on the blade right at 6:12: precursor to a kickback!!! But, in my opinion, overall it's a pretty good video and anyone using a table saw should be periodically looking up videos such as this, reviewing, thinking about safety, making sure they are operating safely. Time very, very well spent!
Thanks so much! 🙏
Blades - more teeth not necessarily better in a table saw . Diablo makes a ripping blade specifically designed for ripping / table saw . Check them out . A bit cheaper and actually out performs a combination blade used in mitre / table saw
I'll check them out - thanks for the tip!
the very first mistake is removing the blade guard.
I’ll include it in the follow up!
How come the higher teeth count blades are slower? The have the same rpm and more teeth mean more cutting action ie. higher linear speed
You're correct in noting that a higher tooth count blade and a lower tooth count blade on a saw will rotate at the same RPM if used on the same machine. However, the "speed" of cutting doesn't solely depend on the RPM or the number of teeth alone. Here's a bit more context:
Cutting Action per Tooth: With a higher tooth count blade, each tooth removes less material with each pass. This is because the teeth are more closely spaced, and each one has less opportunity to bite into the material. In contrast, a blade with fewer teeth will have more space between teeth, allowing each tooth to remove more material with each pass.
Type of Cut Desired: Higher tooth count blades are typically used for finer, cleaner cuts, such as those needed in finish carpentry. These blades cut slower because they are designed to produce a smoother finish, which requires a more gradual, less aggressive cutting action. Lower tooth count blades are used for rougher, quicker cuts where finish quality is less of a concern, like in framing or initial rough cuts in woodworking.
Heat and Friction: Higher tooth count blades can generate more heat due to the increased number of teeth engaging the material, which can lead to burning or melting in some materials like plastics or laminates. This necessitates a slower feed rate to prevent overheating.
Material Type: The material being cut also plays a role. Softer materials might be cut quickly with a high tooth count blade, but harder materials might require a slower feed rate to prevent blade wear or poor quality cuts.
In summary, while higher tooth count blades may engage the material more frequently due to having more teeth, each tooth engages less aggressively and removes less material per pass. This often results in a need for a slower feed rate, particularly when a cleaner, finer cut is desired.
@@sumeraybuilds doesn't the quantity of material removed by each tooth vary by the feed rate? Never tried it, but I would expect more chipping if you feed a higher teeth count too aggressively and the opposite ie less chipping if you keep a very slow feed rate even with a low tooth count blade.
Riving knife is worth its weight in gold.
Totally agree!
Where’s your blade guard? So much for safety tips!
Yeah this was an oversight on my part
1st no blade height, should be set according to type of material your cutting.
2nd kick back have nothing to do with how close your fence is to the blade. Kick back are caused by the blade binding, this happens when you are feeding the materials to fast & putting unequal pressure on the material you are cutting.
3rd free hand cutting is can be done safely, by feeding the material slowly & smoothly though
4th scene with the push sticks, notice how the material wanted to climb off the saw blade & how the material didn't feed smoothly that's because the blade was set to low
Thanks 🙏
What about removing the guard over the blade, seems like one of the biggest mistakes in the video but is not mentioned att all in the video although all of the cuts had it removed.
You’re right the blade guard should have been on this list. I’m making a follow up and I’ll make sure to include it
A bit sketchy cut there at 0:58
yeah I tried to cut out a bit where I make a very irresponsible cut
4:43 a mistake with a mistake. Most fine tooth blades are not intended for rip coats. Only Crosscut. Be sure it’s a combination blade
Thanks
I’ve used my circular saw under a mobile workbench for 20 years and it’s only last week that I counted the number of teeth. Twelve. No need to say that I immediately ordered another blade. I had to wait for RUclips to realize that the stock blade is not to be kept.
Nice 👍 glad this helped!
RESPECT POWERTOOLS AND NEVER RISK YOUR LIMBS BEING STUPID AS I WAS!
Worst thing I ever did: put the table saw on the platform before the door and stand on the steps (lower) to make cuts. I had my left hand on the left side of the blade and a stick in the other to push. I felt resistance, stopped pushing, then started again and when the board was almost through I moved my left hand thumb behind the blade to get the last bit through (1/2"). The blade pulled the wood back with my thumb on it. Fortunately the blade was 1/8" above the wood, otherwise my thumb would have been severely damaged if not severed! I still had 3 nasty cuts & stitches. I've been very lucky and I'll never use the table saw that way again AND use 2 push sticks
Glad you were not injured badly! Thanks for sharing!
0:58 A cut like that is a massive kickback that will hit you in the gut just waiting to happen.
NEVER make a cut that can twist the workpiece into the blade, and if at all possible, don't stand directly in the "line of fire", should a kickback happen!
Thanks for pointing this out and keeping viewers safe! To avoid any new woodworkers repeating this I have removed that section of the video.
Also never put the engine in off position while there's a piece of wood on it. It'll kick the f out around or break the table saw.
Good tip!
Some good tips, but watching you cut across the grain with the wood against the fence (and without the miter gauge is a common new woodworker problem. Trust me, the first time you have a board kick back right into your thigh (or family jewels), you will never do that again.
Great point! Thanks 🙏
It’s a very good idea to NOT put your body directly behind the blade. In the event of a kickback at least you won’t take one in the gut (or the Wedding Tackle).
I have an old Delta Rockwell that was abandoned for years. I cleaned up the table, rebuilt the extension table and added a Router Fixture in the extension. It’s a 3 horse Baldor motor and a friend rewound it for me at his motor shop (RIP George). That thing hit a knot in a rather twisted piece of wood I was trying to salvage and launched it WHANG right past me and went through the drywall ten feet behind me. Glad I wasn’t standing in its way. That was before I even heard of a Riving knife. Years ago. Only real Table Saw Mishap I ever had. (So Far) . In still have that TANK of a saw, but now I use my little Dewalt Jobsite saw pretty much exclusively. Cheers.
Being a motor winder I love hearing that your friend stuffed wire for your motor. It's better than factory now.
@@coltonsmith1561 George was a very good man. As I recall he charged me 80 bucks. He did it in his spare time. I went into his shop with the intention of buying a new motor. There’s no doubt in my mind that motor will be around for a VERY long time. It’s already been over twenty years. Cheers.
Good tip re not standing behind the blade! The Dewalt Table Saw is the best!
Mistake #9 -- sunglasses are not safety glasses.
Very true
There are ansi sunglasses
Invest in a feather board , instead of using 2 push sticks
Nice tip!
hm, I watched another RUclipsr that said the oposite, more teeth of the saw blade the safer, because of kick backs. I am confused.
🤷♂️
Tip 9 use the damn guard. All of youtube "woodworkers" don't use a guard yet they should. Seriously in some very rare occasions a guard is in the way, but every youtuber basically runs without a guard with a stupid reason... people can't see the cutting then... To all those people I will say this. I will not shed a single tear if you lose a finger or more.
People fail to realise that it's a machine you should respect and have your focus with ALL the time. If you feel something goes on autopilot it's time to do something else. If you are in a hurry... do something else. The second you don't respect it mistakes are being made and injuries happen. You can do it right a million times but you only need to do it wrong once.
100%
Great advice BUT the repeated use of "go ahead and" did my head in. Keep up the good work but lose the go ahead and 😢
Uno, it wasn’t until another guy pointed this out that I even knew I did this. And now watching it back it annoys me! I do catch myself doing it now and ‘go ahead’ and re-record those bits haha
Unfortunately, you do all the cuts without the blade guard, a safety feature that you should always use.
Fair point!
Are you aware that within 3-4 years all table saws will need to include safety features to prevent the thousands of horrific table saw injuries we have every year?
Correction: Applies only to the USA
Glad ot hear it!
Let me guess! Buying three saws when you can only run one at a time?
😂😂😂
Fewer teeth gives a cleaner cut when ripping.
Great advice thanks!
00.58 sec in you made the most dangerous and rookie mistake. Those out there with experience will know what I mean.
100% - I agree
you better take that saw out for a date or at least some drinks before applying lateral pleasure.
😂 haha 😂
This guy rattles on about mistakes but at time mark 0:58 he is cross cutting a narrow board with the rip fence. NEVER EVER DO THIS!!!!!. I've run table saws for 56 years as a pro and I HAVE ALL MY FINGERS. Yes you can cut thin strips. Use the kirf slot insert and feed wood keeping it against fence until splitter engaged. Take care not to push too hard causing over riding of blade and have a push stick that is as thin as the rip. I think the push sticks here are a bit long. I prefer a wood one. Less nonsense if blade hits it. If you are using one of these little saws be d_____ sure it will not move. Hang a concrete block from it.
Always use a splitter, unless you can't. Never stand in line with the blade. Saves your gentleman parts. Wear eye AND EAR protection. And if something goes wrong DO NOT TRY TO SAVE IT. Jump out of the way and pull your hands to your chest.
Thanks for pointing this out and keeping viewers safe! To avoid any new woodworkers repeating this I have removed that section of the video.
Whilst lateral pleasure is sometimes fine, my flavorite of pleasures has been medial pleasures. 🥴
😂😂
You are all wrong. The blade needs to be up so as to produce a good clean cut with the least possibility of kick back. Use blade guard cover fo safety, and keep your hands away from the blade. The blade is best cutting downwards not horisontally.
A few people have commented this now, I'll make sure to include it in my follow up video. Thanks :D