seeing this brings back so many memories, all the different engine combos iv built, helped other people build, seen other people build. working with my hands on an VW engine is therapeutic for me, i get lost in my own lil world. i have a routine. i was taught a VW engine can take a lot, IF all your tolerances are on point, combined with proper cooling and oiling. so I'm all for micing everything.
I’m glad this brought back some good memories for you. I feel the same way when building engines or just working in the garage… it’s my therapy for sure.
I just subbed. After months of researching my new 1915 build with a new mag case, it was suggested to me to just go for a 74mm stroke and get to a 2054. Pretty sure I can handle the clearance myself inside the case. Great info and tech. Thanks!
I appreciate the support! Honestly you shouldn’t have to clearance hardly anything in the case, just watch where your rod bolts sling around, little adjustments there will probably be all.
I've said it before, I always learn something from you man! Top thing for me today: there are dynamic compression ratio calculators. I'll be keeping the googles busy looking that one up. Thanks for sharing!
Ive done all my calculations. My motor runs 9.1:1 compression ratio. Eagle110 cam 1641cc pistons and barrel kit sigle 40idf carb kit and 1.25:1 ratio rockers. Heads crank conrods is all cb performance and case is autolinea. Runs great. Planning too supercharge her at a later stage
Oh yeah bud!! I should have had you put my engine together!! Great work!! I really look forward to hearing how it sounds!! I will get yer stickers out this weekend... I was thinking about cutting a few more for ya... Well shall see
@@VWJawbreaker hi ihave engine 1600i… .injected modle 2003 piston 85.5 So imove to 94mm and icut Head and engine case so Ihave black smoke in ideal start up and goes out high rpm… dowen cylinder sims 0.40mm
Super Video, anxious to hear it run and watch the video of it going down the road. Thanks so much for being a part of the VW Family that I’m a part of. Have a great weekend and week too my friend. Thanks for the shout out too. BigW:-)
Big W Adventures I couldn’t imagine my life not not being apart of the VW community. Thank to great people like you that make it so wonderful. Wishing you both a wonderful and safe week my friend.
Great video...how big of a lift cam can you use before you have to worry about notching piston tops for valve clearance issues.i see alot of videos of big stroker motors with big cams and have noticed that the pistons were flat tops with no valve reliefs. So I'm guessing valve reliefs not needed on moderate street cams.
That’s a great question that I don’t have a definite answer for. Most all pistons that I’ve seen are flat top, example, AA and Mhale. When you go to the JE pistons, I’ve seen those with valve relief but that’s the design not so much because they needed valve relief.
@@moparme2733 in order to have increased lift, ratio rockers will achieve the desired lift without beating the lifters to death. Also, certain cam manufacturers grind the cams for ratio rockers and not stock rockers. Engine building isn’t just one or two things, it’s a total combination of everything working together.
Right on! I am also running a FK-8 cam and 1.4 Autocraft rockers. Are yours needle bearing or bushings on the shafts? Mine are bearings and have not had a noticable problem yet. Berg says they need to have bushings. My auto crafts also don't have a oil hole in the adjuster to feed oil to the shafts. Again does not seem to be a problem but it has me wondering if I will run in to problems. On the subject of compression ratio I am running just at 9.0 to 1 static so I want to look at the dynamic ratio and see what that tells me. Back in version 1.0 of this motor I didn't have any over heat trouble but I think the C/R is a bit low for this cam in my case. I am using B 90.5 pistons and with stock length rods and a 78.4 stroke crank I get about .100 deck along with 50cc in my chambers. So I may be leaving power on the table with the low compression ratio. On the bright side I will be able to run tractor fuel if I need to. Good stuff I am enjoying the videos! Can't wait for the next one. I admire your drive and ability to get the work done. Thanks for sharing.
Rob Sannes mine have the bushings and the oil holes in the adjuster.... I think. It’s been a long week and I can’t think straight lol The FK8 cam calls for 9-9.5:1 compression so you’re just fine where you’re at. Like you said you should be able to run just about any fuel and stay cool!
Rob Sannes I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos, I honesty almost didn’t record these, I felt so defeated by the last engine. Kind words like yours helps me push on and I really appreciate it!
quick question...actually two quick questions... 1. with 94mm AA pistons, can the 74mm drop right into the case or did you have to machine for clearances? 2. with 1.4 rockers are you worried about collision with the stock valve covers? thanks for the guidance, slowly building my baja now
Sorry I can only handle one question per week lol 1. The case I have was already clearanced for 82mm stroke. However, most stock cases will only need minor clearance work…. Depends on the rods used depends on if it’s not at all or just a tad. A dremel works wonders. 2. I was wondering about it but I haven’t had a single issue with that. I only had an issue with the stock style push rod tubes, had to upgrade the the wide moth racing push rod tubes.
@@VWJawbreaker dude holy cow. Record response time. Thanks so much. Your videos are so great for help. I’ve build a few sandrails and bugs in my college parking lot. I’ve done top end rebuilds but I haven’t split the case to start from scratch. Your videos are making me feel so much more confident about taking the leap of faith and just doing it.
@@donaldwilson84 make sure the heat riser tubes are hooked up from the intake to the exhaust. That helps preheat the intake and keep the fuel on suspension.
Is the case also decked? I want to put a 76 crank in my 1776 to make it a 1915 so my engine isn't too wide and case clearancing is minimal. But wouldn't that push the piston up past the cylinder by 7mm? I've read I can stick with "a" type pistons and can shim it up for a 76 crank but how are shims supposed to bump the cylinder up 7mm?! There isn't enough of a sleeve at the cylinder bottom to lift it 7mm
This case is not decked, it’s standard. As for your build, going from a 69mm crank to a 76mm crank is a difference of 7mm.... however the piston will travel 3.5mm further up and down the cylinder, not 7mm further in both directions. I’d suggest getting B style pistons which are for a stroker crank and then you’d need very little shims to get your desired deck height.
@@VWJawbreaker won't that make the engine wider? It's going into a 72 sedan. I'm afraid it won't fit right. I was trying to keep my 90.5s for now and maybe go 94s way later on. If I'd get b pistons I would go straight to 82stroke
@@nickel1008 any time you build stroker engines you will need to shim the cylinders to get the proper deck height and compression ratio. You can add quite a bit of shims and still for it into your bug.
valve overlap affects dynamic compression... grind angle, and duration, etc... it's a mathmatical nightmare to figure, which is why most cam manufacturers have a tool on their site to help a person out
Nah... You lost me. 😝 I fancied rebuilding my engine as I'm restoring a 63 convertible I thought lighter crank bigger pistons and barrels hotter cam 40 idf cars butI think I'll just leave it.
I've been a welder in the oil and gas industry for 40 years so I'm OK on bodywork but a bit rusty on mechanical issues but usually get there. Cheers from England 😎
nogger1956 we all have strengths and weaknesses, as a community we play off of each other to make ourselves stronger and better. At least that’s my take on it anyway. I don’t know it all but I share what I do in hopes it helps someone. There are other great people out there as well. Let me know if you have any questions, I’ll do my best to answer them. If you need more step by step, Bently’s engine playlist goes into decent detail
Dynamic compression vs Static compression A more simple ball-park analogy. 10 to 1 compression: assumes your exhaust valves closes at Bottom Dead Center. Looking at your Cam Card physically shows that your exhaust valve does not close till the piston is 25% up into the cylinder. Therefore you have a Dynamic compression ratio of 7.5 to 1
@VWJawbreaker Gosh, I just took a guess after looking at the Cam card. Well, that was a fluke and a half ... lol Thanks for doing all your hard work, and taking the time to share it with us all. And your commentary does add a lot of collateral learning too ! Which is also true gold. Not to tangent-off, but when it comes to valve geometry, I believe finding the theoretical "level" is the million dollar question. But I believe (i could be wrong) that the million dollar answer: is when the adjuster points straight up, and absolutely straight in line with the valve, when at 50% lift. So, that would be a perfectly single straight line ... down threw the adjuster, and continuing straight down through the valve, at 50% lift. I know, tougher to do when the adjuster is on the other end of a high rocker. But maybe not, maybe it's identical as well. Maybe if we made one "set-up adjuster" that stood up with a 6" tall tail, then we could actually see when a rocker was "level/square/parallel" at 50% valve cycle to the head's, and 90' to the valve cover's sealing surface. Then we could use a thin square if we wanted to quantify an exact 90' straight up and down when setting our valve geometry. Thoughts ?
@@thestove2407 we you nailed that one on the head…. Good quick guess dude! For me, 1.4 rockers are more difficult to setup….. ok, maybe more difficult isn’t the right term but it does take more time as I usually do what you mentioned by looking at the adjuster on stock rockers against the valve. A longer mock up valve adjuster wouldn’t be a bad idea but then again the last time I set rocker geometry I used the adjustable push rod and that helped speed things up for me.
seeing this brings back so many memories, all the different engine combos iv built, helped other people build, seen other people build. working with my hands on an VW engine is therapeutic for me, i get lost in my own lil world. i have a routine. i was taught a VW engine can take a lot, IF all your tolerances are on point, combined with proper cooling and oiling. so I'm all for micing everything.
I’m glad this brought back some good memories for you.
I feel the same way when building engines or just working in the garage… it’s my therapy for sure.
These are great videos that I missed.
You just didn’t need them until now…. Love how RUclips works like that.
I wanna hear it fire so bad! Thanks for the in depth tutorials Gary, they make life easier 👌
Dust Buggy glad you are enjoying them. Next video it comes to life!
Always wanted to make Blue Bug a "sleeper." That engine will do!
Most definitely it would!
I just subbed. After months of researching my new 1915 build with a new mag case, it was suggested to me to just go for a 74mm stroke and get to a 2054. Pretty sure I can handle the clearance myself inside the case. Great info and tech. Thanks!
I appreciate the support! Honestly you shouldn’t have to clearance hardly anything in the case, just watch where your rod bolts sling around, little adjustments there will probably be all.
Great info on CR and valve geometry. 👍
Vintage 76 vipergreen # Romeo thanks bud!
This is honestly a very good video!! She’ll run very well Gary!!
Slades VW Beetle thanks buddy, sure hope so!
G'day man Kevin here from Australia.
A good semi technical lesson.
Thankyou for sharing.
✌ Peace man
Kevin Hamling thank you as always for being here! ✌️
I've said it before, I always learn something from you man! Top thing for me today: there are dynamic compression ratio calculators. I'll be keeping the googles busy looking that one up. Thanks for sharing!
Haptic Garage we all learn something from someone, I’m just passing things along.
suspense has been killing me , i wanna hear it roar!!!!
Hector Otani it will!!
Ive done all my calculations. My motor runs 9.1:1 compression ratio. Eagle110 cam 1641cc pistons and barrel kit sigle 40idf carb kit and 1.25:1 ratio rockers. Heads crank conrods is all cb performance and case is autolinea. Runs great. Planning too supercharge her at a later stage
Sounds like a good combo! You might want to lower the compression when you ass the supercharger.
@@VWJawbreaker Thank you. Have too do research on it before i build a supercharged motor.
Oh yeah bud!!
I should have had you put my engine together!!
Great work!!
I really look forward to hearing how it sounds!!
I will get yer stickers out this weekend... I was thinking about cutting a few more for ya...
Well shall see
VeeDub P8 no rush man, I really appreciate you taking the time to make that sticker!
Shouldn’t be long now and she should be coming to life!
Cant wait ⏳
Yea.. Thats a super sweet engine. Its coming along so nice !
Congrats 👍
Great tech session. Treating a VW engine like a Formula 1. You doing good. Now finish and run that momma jammer.
Moe
jdmeaux trying to share info while frustrated with the other build isn’t easy lol. Glad some useful info is coming across.
23 degrees here Florida they say it don't get cold lol
34 degrees here in TAMPA
I'm near Ocala I'm in morriston FL
Great vid and tips as always! I’m getting caught up today I know you’ve got this bad boy up and running! I wanna see it! Lol
Mileage Unknown keep watching man and you’ll go for a ride with us!
@@VWJawbreaker hi ihave engine 1600i… .injected modle 2003 piston 85.5
So imove to 94mm and icut
Head and engine case so
Ihave black smoke in ideal start up and goes out high rpm… dowen cylinder sims 0.40mm
Another Great and informative
Super Video, anxious to hear it run and watch the video of it going down the road. Thanks so much for being a part of the VW Family that I’m a part of. Have a great weekend and week too my friend. Thanks for the shout out too. BigW:-)
Big W Adventures I couldn’t imagine my life not not being apart of the VW community. Thank to great people like you that make it so wonderful. Wishing you both a wonderful and safe week my friend.
Great video...how big of a lift cam can you use before you have to worry about notching piston tops for valve clearance issues.i see alot of videos of big stroker motors with big cams and have noticed that the pistons were flat tops with no valve reliefs. So I'm guessing valve reliefs not needed on moderate street cams.
That’s a great question that I don’t have a definite answer for.
Most all pistons that I’ve seen are flat top, example, AA and Mhale. When you go to the JE pistons, I’ve seen those with valve relief but that’s the design not so much because they needed valve relief.
you should put a link to that calculator in the comments or notes section. i watched the vid but already forgot the link name.
Scotty C dang it, good call! I’ll edit it and do just that!
@@VWJawbreaker please do haha
What is the essence of running ratio rocker arms instead of just stock rocker arms I know I’m stupid. Would you please explain it to me
@@moparme2733 in order to have increased lift, ratio rockers will achieve the desired lift without beating the lifters to death.
Also, certain cam manufacturers grind the cams for ratio rockers and not stock rockers.
Engine building isn’t just one or two things, it’s a total combination of everything working together.
Building a 1968cc, same crank. This helps. 5.4 rods were okay then? Case decked?
Yes sir, these are stock length but I beam rods. The case I ordered was bored for 94’s, full flowed and stroker clearanced, not decked.
Right on! I am also running a FK-8 cam and 1.4 Autocraft rockers. Are yours needle bearing or bushings on the shafts? Mine are bearings and have not had a noticable problem yet. Berg says they need to have bushings. My auto crafts also don't have a oil hole in the adjuster to feed oil to the shafts. Again does not seem to be a problem but it has me wondering if I will run in to problems. On the subject of compression ratio I am running just at 9.0 to 1 static so I want to look at the dynamic ratio and see what that tells me. Back in version 1.0 of this motor I didn't have any over heat trouble but I think the C/R is a bit low for this cam in my case. I am using B 90.5 pistons and with stock length rods and a 78.4 stroke crank I get about .100 deck along with 50cc in my chambers. So I may be leaving power on the table with the low compression ratio. On the bright side I will be able to run tractor fuel if I need to.
Good stuff I am enjoying the videos! Can't wait for the next one. I admire your drive and ability to get the work done. Thanks for sharing.
Rob Sannes mine have the bushings and the oil holes in the adjuster.... I think. It’s been a long week and I can’t think straight lol
The FK8 cam calls for 9-9.5:1 compression so you’re just fine where you’re at. Like you said you should be able to run just about any fuel and stay cool!
Rob Sannes I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos, I honesty almost didn’t record these, I felt so defeated by the last engine. Kind words like yours helps me push on and I really appreciate it!
Hey I’m getting ready to do same build but with 92by 74. New super case also. What deck height did you get with .040 shim under barrel?
There might be a difference between cases but with .040” shims that set me at .050” deck height.
quick question...actually two quick questions...
1. with 94mm AA pistons, can the 74mm drop right into the case or did you have to machine for clearances?
2. with 1.4 rockers are you worried about collision with the stock valve covers?
thanks for the guidance, slowly building my baja now
Sorry I can only handle one question per week lol
1. The case I have was already clearanced for 82mm stroke. However, most stock cases will only need minor clearance work…. Depends on the rods used depends on if it’s not at all or just a tad. A dremel works wonders.
2. I was wondering about it but I haven’t had a single issue with that. I only had an issue with the stock style push rod tubes, had to upgrade the the wide moth racing push rod tubes.
@@VWJawbreaker dude holy cow. Record response time. Thanks so much. Your videos are so great for help. I’ve build a few sandrails and bugs in my college parking lot. I’ve done top end rebuilds but I haven’t split the case to start from scratch. Your videos are making me feel so much more confident about taking the leap of faith and just doing it.
@@TheDrivingFool I appreciate the support. Check out VW Darrin also and EzGz, they also have some great tips and tricks to help you along.
@@VWJawbreaker I’ve seen them too! Hopefully I can start uploading a few videos of my build as time goes on
@@TheDrivingFool that would be awesome man, keep me posted if you do so I can check out your progress!
Soooo, the motor likes to run lean then? What did you do about the oversized rings?
i'm sure gary will get to this but lean is air / fuel. compression is volume / volume. dynamic compression is ratioed volume / volume.
@@redshirt-scotty thanks for explaining. Gary is a great guy. We have hung out a few times. Take care
Scotty C thanks for explaining man, been swamped at work and hadn’t had time to reply.
I just got a sand rail. and my carb. and intake is sweating , I think this is a 1600 with a cam. what do you think????
Single carb setup or dual carbs?
@@VWJawbreaker One carb. but two barrel.
thank you for reading this.
@@donaldwilson84 make sure the heat riser tubes are hooked up from the intake to the exhaust. That helps preheat the intake and keep the fuel on suspension.
Farkengroovin!
Going to run it on funday sunday?
Vintage Speed VW not sure yet.... if I can get out there time wise I have a few things I’ll need to address before then.
BOA TARDE AMIGO TEM O CONTATO DE ONDE VOCÊ ADQUIRE ESSAS PECAS. PORQUE AQUI NO BRASIL É UMA DECEPCAO EM ENCONTRAR PECAS PARA OS AMANTES O BESOURO.
They came from CIP1 and CB Performance
Is the case also decked? I want to put a 76 crank in my 1776 to make it a 1915 so my engine isn't too wide and case clearancing is minimal. But wouldn't that push the piston up past the cylinder by 7mm? I've read I can stick with "a" type pistons and can shim it up for a 76 crank but how are shims supposed to bump the cylinder up 7mm?! There isn't enough of a sleeve at the cylinder bottom to lift it 7mm
This case is not decked, it’s standard.
As for your build, going from a 69mm crank to a 76mm crank is a difference of 7mm.... however the piston will travel 3.5mm further up and down the cylinder, not 7mm further in both directions. I’d suggest getting B style pistons which are for a stroker crank and then you’d need very little shims to get your desired deck height.
@@VWJawbreaker won't that make the engine wider? It's going into a 72 sedan. I'm afraid it won't fit right. I was trying to keep my 90.5s for now and maybe go 94s way later on. If I'd get b pistons I would go straight to 82stroke
@@nickel1008 any time you build stroker engines you will need to shim the cylinders to get the proper deck height and compression ratio. You can add quite a bit of shims and still for it into your bug.
@@VWJawbreaker would you only shim the bottom? How much wider is the engine with b pistons? Thx for answering my questions btw. It's much appreciated!
@@nickel1008 you’d have to mock it up to know how many shims you’ll need.
Are these 94mmX69mm jugs?
Yes sir. Anything more than 74 stroke you need to go to stroker pistons.
valve overlap affects dynamic compression... grind angle, and duration, etc... it's a mathmatical nightmare to figure, which is why most cam manufacturers have a tool on their site to help a person out
Math definitely isn’t my strong point so luckily the online calculators make things much easier.
VOCÊS AI NÃO USA BOMBA DE COMBUSTIVEL COMO É NO ORIGINAL É TAMPADO E COMO É O FUNCIONAMENTO.
There’s an electric fuel pump under the gas tank.
You gotta love empi products. Too bad you couldn't find a old set of BUGPACK shims.
Volkswagenplanet totally agree.
Nah... You lost me. 😝
I fancied rebuilding my engine as I'm restoring a 63 convertible I thought lighter crank bigger pistons and barrels hotter cam 40 idf cars butI think I'll just leave it.
Well if it doesn’t need rebuilt, better to leave it alone.
I have other vids showing rebuilds, check out the play lists, I cover more info there.
I've been a welder in the oil and gas industry for 40 years so I'm OK on bodywork but a bit rusty on mechanical issues but usually get there. Cheers from England 😎
nogger1956 we all have strengths and weaknesses, as a community we play off of each other to make ourselves stronger and better. At least that’s my take on it anyway. I don’t know it all but I share what I do in hopes it helps someone. There are other great people out there as well. Let me know if you have any questions, I’ll do my best to answer them. If you need more step by step, Bently’s engine playlist goes into decent detail
@@VWJawbreaker very true I've always been a one to have a go make mistakes learn from them and move on otherwise we'd still be living in caves 😋
nogger1956 couldn’t have said it better myself 🤙
Can you reshoot this video for kindergartners?
Haha!
Go back to Bently’s engine playlist, I really broke things down step by step on that series.
Dynamic compression
vs
Static compression
A more simple ball-park analogy.
10 to 1 compression: assumes your exhaust valves closes at Bottom Dead Center.
Looking at your Cam Card physically shows that your exhaust valve does not close till the piston is 25% up into the cylinder.
Therefore you have a Dynamic compression ratio of 7.5 to 1
Correct, the site I used to calculate it gave me 7.49:1.
@VWJawbreaker
Gosh, I just took a guess after looking at the Cam card. Well, that was a fluke and a half ... lol
Thanks for doing all your hard work, and taking the time to share it with us all.
And your commentary does add a lot of collateral learning too ! Which is also true gold.
Not to tangent-off, but when it comes to valve geometry, I believe finding the theoretical
"level" is the million dollar question.
But I believe (i could be wrong) that the million dollar answer:
is when the adjuster points straight up, and absolutely straight in line with the valve, when at 50% lift.
So, that would be a perfectly single straight line ... down threw the adjuster, and continuing straight down through the valve, at 50% lift. I know, tougher to do when the adjuster is on the other end of a high rocker. But maybe not, maybe it's identical as well.
Maybe if we made one "set-up adjuster" that stood up with a 6" tall tail, then we could actually see when a rocker was "level/square/parallel" at 50% valve cycle to the head's, and 90' to the valve cover's sealing surface. Then we could use a thin square if we wanted to quantify an exact 90' straight up and down when setting our valve geometry.
Thoughts ?
@@thestove2407 we you nailed that one on the head…. Good quick guess dude!
For me, 1.4 rockers are more difficult to setup….. ok, maybe more difficult isn’t the right term but it does take more time as I usually do what you mentioned by looking at the adjuster on stock rockers against the valve.
A longer mock up valve adjuster wouldn’t be a bad idea but then again the last time I set rocker geometry I used the adjustable push rod and that helped speed things up for me.