I have to say I love the first time I saw you with your son in the bug , you had a big engine and when you gave it throttle while driving, the look on your sons face was cool , he looked impressed 😊😊
@@Joesrustbuckets that’s the great thing about the videos. They’ll be here for when and if you need them. You’ll get it done in due time. Until then just enjoy the process.
Oh yeah what i do with valve cover gaskets is coat them with ultra black and place them on the cleaned valve cover and install them the next day. Keeps the gasket on the cover and allows for multiple valve adjustments. Just make sure the surface that goes up against the head has a smooth application of ultra black before it dries
Huh, never thought of that before. I’ll have to give that a try! I usually use grease on both sides and don’t have any issues but I also don’t worry about that for break in as you’ll be back in there to adjust the valves anyway.
@VWJawbreaker Same here .. I silicone the gaskets to the valve covers, early in the build, or while waiting for parts to come in. That does a couple things: holds them in place while mounting. More importantly .. just reduced the area of possible places to leak by 50%. My tip ... I let the silicone cure while on the cover is mounted on the head ... It gives it a dedicated custom fit. I keep track of right and left cover.
For the oil control plunges that took a while to get out, what i do it fet a really long flat tail file, and then I bend a flathead screwdriver at a slight angle, then I stick the file all the way in and then the screw driver, then at the knuckle of the bend I press the two together putting an outward force on the plung and i yank, is super fast and works everytime
The 1968cc is our favourite build. It's so bullet proof and a easy build. I must admit, we never use that cam profile in them, but I'm guessing it was supplied by the customer?
@@mathewboyd3746 man the 110 cam is such an old, well known profile. If you normally use scat, it’s essentially a C35. But yes he provided the cam as he already had it at the house.
For degreaser ... I've been using common Pinesol, lavender just because it smells nice. Especially in my wash tank. I must admit it works ! And for my proof .. i was cleaning my front torsion arms. You know .. that 45 year old nasty tough dried grease ... It blows me away ... how fast it dissolves that tough black dried tar-like grease. I like to use the Pinesol in the wash-tank for new heads and cylinders, cranks, cams etc, as a inexpensive degreaser. Cheers
You know your vw's. I doubt it happens but putting the wrist pin circlip open end at 3 or 9 o'clock if 12 and 6 are the top and bottom of the struck makes it possible for the clip to collapse and fall out.
Those rods are nice. The only thing i noticed is when the crank moves fore and aft. Should crank be foreward for check or check both fore and aft or just clearance case a little extra. Thanks
Thanks buddy I find your show very informative and helpful, Im like you I like to do my own engines too, what benefit does the solid rockers make , and what Carbie do you end up using thanks buddy
Glad you enjoyed the video. The solid rockers should be used when you upgrade your cam since they don’t use the wavy washers and clips to hold things together.
@@Aungmyohtwehtwe I don’t have a diagram for that. Make sure your distributor is wired to the coil correctly for power. Firing order for the plug wires 1,4,3,2
@VWJawbreaker sounds great. Thanks. Is this on the Playlist too? Is there an update on it running? BTW following on you bus journey. Nice. Thanks again. Much appreciated Sir.
@ I used the cb rods on the 2007cc build. This 1968 engine has been broke in and he took it home. It’s been sitting ever since as he hasn’t decided what VW to put it in yet. Appreciate the support!!
How did you know so quickly that one cylinder was lean? Temperature or sound? With the 74 stroke, did you use stock length rods or shorter ones? I like your build videos, studying for my first build and the more info, the better my confidence.
@ I went back over the leading videos, and didn’t find an answer to my confusion. With a 74mm stroke, that would mean that the pistons will travel an additional 2.5mm (.098”) in each direction. So, the .040-.050” deck height would be gone, and the piston would stick out above the Cyl another .040” or more. To make up for that, the cylinder shims would need an addition .098” stack. Am I understanding this correctly? In addition to more clearance on the bottom end of the Rods you used, are they also shorter than stock? Thanks for these build videos… they really do fill in a lot of blanks without wasting a lot of time. Your style is very smooth.
Ok, I went over the videos for the Spare Parts build and found what I was looking for. Still seems like it will take whatever shim thickness was there with stock crank, plus about .090” more to make up for the striker crank. If Stock was using a .020” shim, the total could be as much as .110” stack of shims.
@@danboy3399 so, yes but no. There really isn’t a way to dial in your deck height without mocking the engine up. There are so many variables like the case, cylinder jugs, etc that can change your deck height from one engine to another. You have to mock it up to get the proper answer to your question.
Yes sir; you are killing it with these engine builds and you are educating DIY folks on how to do them the right way. Fantastic!
Thanks man! After the 1868 and the 1760 build, that will probably be it as far as engine builds go for a while. Time will tell.
Awesome to have all this great information in one video. So much good detail in this thanks Gary
Hoping it’ll help someone out down the road vs looking through multi part videos.
Full Meal Deal! Excellent full length video! Again great job Gary!
Thanks man!
Hoping the full length will be easier for someone instead of looking through multi part vids.
@@VWJawbreaker gotta love it:) I'm sure it took a while to upload!
@@V8N8T oh that’s an understatement! 😂
I have to say I love the first time I saw you with your son in the bug , you had a big engine and when you gave it throttle while driving, the look on your sons face was cool , he looked impressed 😊😊
Haha, yeah we had a great time!
Great Vid Gary, will come back again when I am done rustoring, if ever 👌lol,
@@Joesrustbuckets that’s the great thing about the videos. They’ll be here for when and if you need them.
You’ll get it done in due time. Until then just enjoy the process.
brozinski... i picked up some of the super clean and you aint kidding... that stuff rocks !! my new goto
@@bassdaze I wasn’t lying, it’s the best stuff I’ve ever used!
Oh yeah what i do with valve cover gaskets is coat them with ultra black and place them on the cleaned valve cover and install them the next day. Keeps the gasket on the cover and allows for multiple valve adjustments. Just make sure the surface that goes up against the head has a smooth application of ultra black before it dries
Huh, never thought of that before. I’ll have to give that a try! I usually use grease on both sides and don’t have any issues but I also don’t worry about that for break in as you’ll be back in there to adjust the valves anyway.
@VWJawbreaker
Same here .. I silicone the gaskets to the valve covers, early in the build, or while waiting for parts to come in.
That does a couple things: holds them in place while mounting.
More importantly .. just reduced the area of possible places to leak by 50%.
My tip ... I let the silicone cure while on the cover is mounted on the head ... It gives it a dedicated custom fit.
I keep track of right and left cover.
Hay Garry, keep us updated what this motor ends up in, should be a banger set up ;)
@@DemopVWgarage will do man.
For the oil control plunges that took a while to get out, what i do it fet a really long flat tail file, and then I bend a flathead screwdriver at a slight angle, then I stick the file all the way in and then the screw driver, then at the knuckle of the bend I press the two together putting an outward force on the plung and i yank, is super fast and works everytime
Rat tail file* and I'm talking around 9:30 into vid
I’ll have to give that a try next time 🤙
De ja vu!
Just a tad. Hoping it’ll be easier vs looking through multi part videos.
The 1968cc is our favourite build. It's so bullet proof and a easy build. I must admit, we never use that cam profile in them, but I'm guessing it was supplied by the customer?
@@mathewboyd3746 man the 110 cam is such an old, well known profile. If you normally use scat, it’s essentially a C35.
But yes he provided the cam as he already had it at the house.
Awsome video
@@peterlohr4544 thank you 🙏
Nice, thanks for sharing.
@@harleycruiser4331 thank you for watching!
@VWJawbreaker I'm in north Florida Lake city, where are you?
@@harleycruiser4331 north of Orlando.
For degreaser ... I've been using common Pinesol, lavender just because it smells nice.
Especially in my wash tank.
I must admit it works !
And for my proof .. i was cleaning my front torsion arms. You know .. that 45 year old nasty tough dried grease ...
It blows me away ... how fast it dissolves that tough black dried tar-like grease.
I like to use the Pinesol in the wash-tank for new heads and cylinders, cranks, cams etc, as a inexpensive degreaser.
Cheers
I have to admit, I’ve used pinesol in the past and it does work great!
You know your vw's. I doubt it happens but putting the wrist pin circlip open end at 3 or 9 o'clock if 12 and 6 are the top and bottom of the struck makes it possible for the clip to collapse and fall out.
Good info!!
Those rods are nice. The only thing i noticed is when the crank moves fore and aft. Should crank be foreward for check or check both fore and aft or just clearance case a little extra. Thanks
Crank should be back as that’s how the end play will keep the crank in position. I also check with the crank forward as well for added insurance.
Did I miss what case you were using? Always interested in what you start with. This will be a good one.
@@charlesloar3210 maybe I didn’t mention it, sorry. It’s a stock as41 case.
Thanks buddy I find your show very informative and helpful, Im like you I like to do my own engines too, what benefit does the solid rockers make , and what Carbie do you end up using thanks buddy
Glad you enjoyed the video.
The solid rockers should be used when you upgrade your cam since they don’t use the wavy washers and clips to hold things together.
@@VWJawbreaker ok yeah thanks buddy
How's the 1760 mini stroker coming along? When can us viewers expect the next video no hurry. Take your time. I'm just wondering. Good luck again.🎉
@@FULL-ZOOM that will be out this Wednesday!
@@VWJawbreaker can't wait.
Ignition diagram please
@@Aungmyohtwehtwe can you be more specific?
@@VWJawbreaker no spark . I think wire problem.no use 5year
@@Aungmyohtwehtwe I don’t have a diagram for that.
Make sure your distributor is wired to the coil correctly for power.
Firing order for the plug wires 1,4,3,2
@@VWJawbreaker you use WhatsApp? Please help me🙏
@@Aungmyohtwehtwe I don’t use that app
Thanks for sharing. Would you prefer using different rods instead of EMPIs?
They actually speced out great, I was amazed. CB also has a great set of stock replacement rods that I’ve used a few times with great success.
@VWJawbreaker sounds great. Thanks. Is this on the Playlist too? Is there an update on it running? BTW following on you bus journey. Nice. Thanks again. Much appreciated Sir.
@ I used the cb rods on the 2007cc build.
This 1968 engine has been broke in and he took it home. It’s been sitting ever since as he hasn’t decided what VW to put it in yet.
Appreciate the support!!
@VWJawbreaker Oh, absolutely man. Thanks again for your sharing your knowledge. 💯
How did you know so quickly that one cylinder was lean? Temperature or sound? With the 74 stroke, did you use stock length rods or shorter ones? I like your build videos, studying for my first build and the more info, the better my confidence.
I could tell by sound and then temp to find the lean cylinder.
I went over the rods used and all parts used in the first video.
@ I went back over the leading videos, and didn’t find an answer to my confusion. With a 74mm stroke, that would mean that the pistons will travel an additional 2.5mm (.098”) in each direction. So, the .040-.050” deck height would be gone, and the piston would stick out above the Cyl another .040” or more. To make up for that, the cylinder shims would need an addition .098” stack. Am I understanding this correctly?
In addition to more clearance on the bottom end of the Rods you used, are they also shorter than stock?
Thanks for these build videos… they really do fill in a lot of blanks without wasting a lot of time. Your style is very smooth.
Ok, I went over the videos for the Spare Parts build and found what I was looking for. Still seems like it will take whatever shim thickness was there with stock crank, plus about .090” more to make up for the striker crank. If Stock was using a .020” shim, the total could be as much as .110” stack of shims.
@@danboy3399 so, yes but no. There really isn’t a way to dial in your deck height without mocking the engine up. There are so many variables like the case, cylinder jugs, etc that can change your deck height from one engine to another. You have to mock it up to get the proper answer to your question.
What length rods were they? Good job!
@@MikeWymer-m3w I covered that in the video…
5.394” (stock length)
@VWJawbreaker , sorry i saw that after i sent that.. keep the videos coming. And Happy Holidays!
@ all good man, it’s easy to miss details sometimes.
Happy Holidays to you as well!