Very nice work. It takes a bit more time, but I think this is the only true method to deal with any and all alignment issues except for maybe one so I will ask.... I see that the shank end of the reamer is held solidly. But how do you deal with the .0002"-.0003" clearance/play between the pilot bushing ID and the nose of the reamer? Although small, this gap can create an inconsistency when the indicator is run around the pilot bushing when you're shooting for .0001"-.0000" accuracy. Your bushing can also have .0001"-.0003" or more of eccentricity. Manson for instance, states that eccentricity of their bushings should be .0002" or less, but that's still enough movement to induce some error into your indicator reading. Or am I over-thinking it? Again, a very solid and logical design.
You’re over thinking it. The next chamber video will be using a reamer without a bushing. If you have everything dialed in perfect to the bore you don’t need a pilot
@@DustinDrews1 Fair enough. So having some play at the bushing, say .0002", has no effect and should be considered perfect? That's great. I guess I was over thinking it. Thanks for the reply. Looking forward to that video.
Drew, you added the plus .002" to depth of cut for final reamer cut, total .009" on the final cut. .001" for crush and.001" headspace. You check go-gauge (good), then sdd .002" tape (bolt wont drop) and its good. Now thats all in the lathe, (hand tight) with no torque spec.. what ft/lbf are you using? This is not a hunting rifle i assume, and there has been on two occasions when ive run headspace of .001" where multiple factory ammo manufacturer wont chamber because of SAAMI ammo tolerance. Have you ever had to go back and add reamer depth? Do you always get consistent "crush" at your torque pressue?
This is all action dependent…. This is a high end action with no removable recoil lug. I get very little crush with them. But on like a factory 700 that has not been trued and has a factory recoil lug. I use .003 to .0035 deep for the stacking of tolerances. Thanks for watching
I will cut a chamfer the same angle as the reamer shoulder - when I started doing that it eliminated any chatter/singing I got when starting the reamer.
Great video - one small comment though - I don't think its a good idea to use the threads to test your reamer's run out. It would be best to design a tapered bar that would fit into the bore itself that could hold the indicators. How can you be sure that the tops of the threads are all within .000x" of each other (remember we are talking tenths here).. ? Anyway just thinking out loud here.
You are not thinking about this correctly… The threads have nothing to do with anything with indicating the reamer. The spindle of the lathe is turning around the reamer. The barrel just makes a simple place you clamp the indicator jig to. I could clamp it to the chuck and it wouldn’t matter… it all turns with the barrel any runout will be in the lathes bearings.
!["Drews Precision: Chambering a Savage Prefit 6.5 PRC Barrel [Full-Length Video]".](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7_FA5bqculg/mqdefault.jpg)
Great work and fantastic idea, I’d love to learn how to do all this, it fascinates me, cheers Yogi ✌️🇦🇺
Thanks for the kind words
Nice work Drew. That reamer holder is genius.
Thanks for the kind words!
I don't think he sleeps much with all that thinking /inventing going on. Nice work Dustin
It’s all done out of frustrations with common industry methods.
Thanks for the kind words
@@DustinDrews1 You have this down to a science, fantastic work.
Really nice work. I really appreciate your videos.
Thank you very much! Glad you enjoyed them
Great video! Would you be willing to share the item numbers for the tool holders and inserts?
Holders are Kenametal boring bar is iscar
Very nice work. It takes a bit more time, but I think this is the only true method to deal with any and all alignment issues except for maybe one so I will ask.... I see that the shank end of the reamer is held solidly. But how do you deal with the .0002"-.0003" clearance/play between the pilot bushing ID and the nose of the reamer? Although small, this gap can create an inconsistency when the indicator is run around the pilot bushing when you're shooting for .0001"-.0000" accuracy. Your bushing can also have .0001"-.0003" or more of eccentricity. Manson for instance, states that eccentricity of their bushings should be .0002" or less, but that's still enough movement to induce some error into your indicator reading. Or am I over-thinking it? Again, a very solid and logical design.
You’re over thinking it. The next chamber video will be using a reamer without a bushing.
If you have everything dialed in perfect to the bore you don’t need a pilot
@@DustinDrews1 Fair enough. So having some play at the bushing, say .0002", has no effect and should be considered perfect? That's great. I guess I was over thinking it. Thanks for the reply. Looking forward to that video.
Drew, you added the plus .002" to depth of cut for final reamer cut, total .009" on the final cut. .001" for crush and.001" headspace. You check go-gauge (good), then sdd .002" tape (bolt wont drop) and its good. Now thats all in the lathe, (hand tight) with no torque spec.. what ft/lbf are you using? This is not a hunting rifle i assume, and there has been on two occasions when ive run headspace of .001" where multiple factory ammo manufacturer wont chamber because of SAAMI ammo tolerance. Have you ever had to go back and add reamer depth? Do you always get consistent "crush" at your torque pressue?
This is all action dependent…. This is a high end action with no removable recoil lug. I get very little crush with them.
But on like a factory 700 that has not been trued and has a factory recoil lug. I use .003 to .0035 deep for the stacking of tolerances.
Thanks for watching
Nice one mate 👍
Did you bore the Morse taper holder in situ, using the lathe spindle?
No I just took a pile of measurements and milled it to sit flush and on center
Whats the best reamer to get for 6.5 Creedmoor pls
A sharp one… I like Manson myself
I will cut a chamfer the same angle as the reamer shoulder - when I started doing that it eliminated any chatter/singing I got when starting the reamer.
That makes sense!
Using the case taper with these new basically strait walled cases. It don’t leave any room for error.
Great video - one small comment though - I don't think its a good idea to use the threads to test your reamer's run out. It would be best to design a tapered bar that would fit into the bore itself that could hold the indicators. How can you be sure that the tops of the threads are all within .000x" of each other (remember we are talking tenths here).. ? Anyway just thinking out loud here.
Take a look at McMaster-Carr at threaded taper pins. That is the direction that I would look at. Any way just a suggestion.
You are not thinking about this correctly…
The threads have nothing to do with anything with indicating the reamer. The spindle of the lathe is turning around the reamer. The barrel just makes a simple place you clamp the indicator jig to. I could clamp it to the chuck and it wouldn’t matter… it all turns with the barrel any runout will be in the lathes bearings.
You’re not understanding it correctly…
You can mount the indicators on anything that turns with the spindle, it doesn't matter.
What’s the name of the boring bar
Iscar
Part numbers for that little boring bar?
MGSIR 06-06W HOLDER
Also look into 6mm Pico tooling boring bars. MSCDirect