Cortex screws are great, until you screw up and the screw is stuck in limbo in your composite deck board. Be aware of what you drive cortex screws into or you will have exposed screw heads or stripped screws. Avoid end grain on blocking or you may have an ugly oops. Avoid miratec type material made of fiber board-like dust, it splits and leaves screw “suspended”. Be aware that screws have a left hand threaded section below the head to remove debris from the hole. Use regular drill for driving screws and don’t stop until bit releases screw. It is recommended not to use impact drill. You only get one chance to remove screw without a pry bar so see drdeck’s method. I always learn stuff the hard way so there’s probably more.
I am not able to find cortex plugs matching my boards color. Would you have anytip one how to get screws flush to the surface? I am trying to avoid them going to deep into the boards. Thanks
Yeah, I have wondered how to handle that as well. I think it's best to use face screws on just one side and hidden fasteners the rest of the way. For instance, I'm building a deck with a picture frame on the opposite side as the house so I would face screw on that side in order to keep the gap tight and hidden fasteners the rest of the way. If there's expansion or contraction then it'll be tucked under my house stucco. Maybe both methods have their pros and cons because I would think that face screwing everywhere would result in expansion and contraction between the joists. Then you would have a wavy deck from it buckling, although probably minimally.
@@plumbobmillionaire6246 If you use hidden fasteners then the fastener won't allow expansion along the width. The original question was about expansion/contraction along the length of the board anyway. A 16' board can expand or contract around 1/4". It's not a lot but if you're trying to keep a clean line along a picture frame, that matters.
Im realy sorry, but i halft to say the camera guy NEEDS TRAINIG ON HOW TO RUN THE CAMERA!!!! DONT FOCUSE ON SO MUCH OF THE SPEAKER. Show us what he is doing, thank you.
"Those are my opinions and I'm entitled to them." -- one of the best things ever said on this channel!
I really like your videos! Informative, helpful and you sound sincere, not cocky or conceded like some other RUclipsrs. Thanks for sharing as always!
I appreciate that!
Thanks great information!!!
Cortex screws are great, until you screw up and the screw is stuck in limbo in your composite deck board. Be aware of what you drive cortex screws into or you will have exposed screw heads or stripped screws. Avoid end grain on blocking or you may have an ugly oops. Avoid miratec type material made of fiber board-like dust, it splits and leaves screw “suspended”.
Be aware that screws have a left hand threaded section below the head to remove debris from the hole. Use regular drill for driving screws and don’t stop until bit releases screw. It is recommended not to use impact drill. You only get one chance to remove screw without a pry bar so see drdeck’s method.
I always learn stuff the hard way so there’s probably more.
I am not able to find cortex plugs matching my boards color. Would you have anytip one how to get screws flush to the surface? I am trying to avoid them going to deep into the boards. Thanks
Ever have any issues with ice pushing the plugs up out of the hole over the winter?
Not in my region
smart
If you screw the ends of the boards don't you take away the ability to expand and contract?
Wood boards expand widthwise but not lengthwise. This is because of the grain orientation.
Yeah, I have wondered how to handle that as well. I think it's best to use face screws on just one side and hidden fasteners the rest of the way. For instance, I'm building a deck with a picture frame on the opposite side as the house so I would face screw on that side in order to keep the gap tight and hidden fasteners the rest of the way. If there's expansion or contraction then it'll be tucked under my house stucco.
Maybe both methods have their pros and cons because I would think that face screwing everywhere would result in expansion and contraction between the joists. Then you would have a wavy deck from it buckling, although probably minimally.
Very minimal, the gap between your boards will allow for expansion, it’s rare to get buckling. Personally I don’t like the plugs, hidden clips for me
@@plumbobmillionaire6246 If you use hidden fasteners then the fastener won't allow expansion along the width. The original question was about expansion/contraction along the length of the board anyway. A 16' board can expand or contract around 1/4". It's not a lot but if you're trying to keep a clean line along a picture frame, that matters.
@@WhistleLad That’s true, but these deck boards aren’t made of wood, and plastics/vinyls/polymers do move a lot with heat-cold cycles.
Im realy sorry, but i halft to say the camera guy NEEDS TRAINIG ON HOW TO RUN THE CAMERA!!!! DONT FOCUSE ON SO MUCH OF THE SPEAKER. Show us what he is doing, thank you.
Word salad. WTF