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I asked a 3rd generation carpenter what tool would he recommend for DIYers he said ditch the old school battery drill and get a good lithium battery impact driver. I did and BOY DOES IT MAKE A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE! No more predrilling. The drill will drive EVERYTHING! What I do is go about half way in then back out and watch the wood shavings pour out then I just drive the screw in that way it doesn't split the wood. Works great as it serves the same purpose without having to predrill. It gets the shavings out so the wood isn't expanded too much. So it prevents splitting. Also I find most old school guys just press the impact/drill button at full power all the time. What I do is start slow, to get it started, then full speed at mid length, then right at the last quarter I slow down to barely flush mount the screw heads. Oh and I only use T-25 star/Torc head screws the only thing that is better is square heads as both are harder to strip.
As someone with a somewhat limited knowledge of woodworking and just getting into basic carpentry, your videos are a blessing to me. As a result, I'm taking on the challenge of replacing boards on my deck. Just wanted to say thanks and keep up the good work!
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
Minor correction: Screws hold *better* when they are pre-drilled with a pilot hole. (Removing material for the core allows the threads to cut in a uniform fashion, avoiding distortion. This increases, not decreases, holding strength.) -Good video👌
@@KMSchriver You're welcome. Mamy torque specs assume fasteners are pre-drilled, and nuts are lubricated before fastening because they fasten tighter. That is not widely known, however.
Back in the day, wood screws were the only thing around. You would drill the diameter of the screw for the first board and then have a smaller pilot hole for the second board to cure withdrawal pressure. That still stands today for whatever screw is used today. If you think you are going to get pull out or withdrawal pressure, just drill the diameter of the screw for the first board. The head of screw will cinch up the 2 boards
I've seen screws that have steeper threads in the top third and normal threads in the bottom two thirds. They are meant to pull the board that's being attached tight against the wood it's being attached to. With that type of screw would it be better to leave the pilot hole the same narrower diameter in both pieces?
@@ethanheyne To me, that would be a "test it on a couple of scrap pieces first", preferably on the same type of wood that you are joining together, to see if getting pull out. Different types of woods or plywoods are more ornery than others..lol. If you can get away with just one pilot hole, great, that's less work. But drilling the diameter of the screw in the first board is a sure method. Nothing more frustrating than being in the air while trying to screw something to wall, ceiling, etc and it pulling out. Or if even doing with a glue up, and clamps and getting a gap from the boards not cinching together. My dad was a aerospace engineer, and he always said the the head of a screw/bolt has tremendous holding power. Of course, he wasn't driving brittle drywall screws with some of the more powerful drills we have today. LOL, LOL
I've had instances where I needed to screw boards flat, but had screws that were slightly too long (I didn't order them). In that case, I just angle the screw slightly, making sure the boards don't slide and the screw doesn't exit. Simple but effective, especially if you put the next screw in from the reverse angle. Of course, don't be afraid to pre-drill the holes, especially if it's fragile work such as trim.
Toe in is great and actually provides more strength, but the caveat is that it can be tricky to get the head of the screw flush w/ the board. Another alternative is (if you have the time) to cut the end of the screw that's sticking out so it's flush.
Hi Ethan. Just thinking of a few screw topics that you may want to discuss later. Two that come to mind are different drive options (#2 square / torx / phillips / etc??) and different coatings / materials (a lot of people use the wrong screw type - particularly in CCA treated timber). This video was fairly concise - that's good. A bit more depth in discussion around pilot holes such as when there may be advantage in drilling an over sized hole on the face piece to allow the stock to pull together without binding and when to counter sink may be worth while. Also scewing (angling) screws to improve holding power and fastening from each side where you have access.
I really love the square head screws. Phillips heads are so annoying, as you almost never can tell when they are going to slip on you. And if the screw is inferior metal, you've got little chance of driving it in all the way, unless you put a tonne of force on your driver. Obviously the stronger timber screws are usually ok, but I just loathe Phillips heads.
In the UK Pozidrive are pretty standard, better than Phillips but not as goos as Torx (which I use) or Robertson. Robertson, probably the best of the lot, are almost completely unavailable in the UK except as decking screws occasionally.
This explanation makes a lot of sense. I had been taught that, in general, the screw length should be twice the thickness of the wood that one is attaching. i.e. a 3" nail through a 2x4. But I found myself making adjustments.
An additional tip when drilling the pilot hole, use a bit that is roughly 1/3 to 1/2 the diameter of the threads. With lag screws or bolts go up to 3/4 of the diameter for the pilot hole to prevent splitinig.
Thank you, this is good information. The most common critique I hear from TV builders is “don’t use drywall screws for everything, they are too brittle” and as I work on my own home I find the previous owner used drywall screws for everything from mounting a light fixture in the bathroom to hanging wire shelves in the closet. Problem is, I don’t know what’s right. So, deck screws for everything not attaching drywall to a wall stud? I also like screws with something other than the Phillips drive, it strips out too easily.
The Honest Carpenter can give his opinion as mine is just one thought on it. In my experience thread widths can be a problem if they split the wood. Usually once you pick the max length screw you can use without the screw sticking through the other side or at least 1" to 1-1/2" deep in both pieces of wood, the screw's width should be good for that application. Usually predrilling will allow the wood to have a hole but enough wood still to allow the threads of the screw to hold. This also gets the wood shavings out so when you drive the screw it doesn't expand the wood too much and split it. What I do is use an impact driver compared to a regular drill. The impact driver "knocks" or impacts the spinning bit when it slows down due to resistance. You will hear it impact/knocking as you drive a screw into wood as it gets harder to drive. The advantage is the impact driver will DRIVE EVERYTHING no predrilling needed. So what I do is drive the screw (T-25 star/Torc head as they are very hard to strip) half way then back out to allow the wood shavings to come out. This allows the wood to not have to over expand and split. Then drive the screw flush mounted. Also most people just press the drive button on drills/impact drivers at full power all the time. What I do is start slow to get started then press to full power until about one quarter of the way then slow down at the end to make sure you flush mount the screw head instead of accidentally burying the screw head half way in the board. My 70yr old dad still does this even after I showed and explained that if the screw goes through the other end it can't hold the board.
I have always wondered what the formula was for screw length. Always just eyeballed it. But now I will keep the 1/3 × 2/3 proportion in mind. Thanks for this and a lot of other videos of yours I have recently watched. Keep it up!
Great video! I nearly always pre -drill. Not only stops splitting but also guides the screw straight so grain won't affect it. I use 4 mm or 3mm for 90% of pre drill holes. I buy these bits in 10s they last for years!
I so wish the whole industry would just switch over once and for all. Larger production runs would bring down the cost, and the bit is almost always included, so adoption is really very easy, whether for DIY or professional applications.
Pre drilling the attachment to the thickness of the screw shaft will enable the development of friction between the surfaces and increases “shear” strength. Love your presentations and tips.
Great tips. I might suggest adding that you want to avoid driving screws in the same grain too close to each other. This often leads to the screws acting like wedges and the wood splitting along the grain. This can be avoided by observing the grain and altering screw positions accordingly.
@@scottroy6195 They're most common in Canada because of Robertson. They exist elsewhere, but are usually harder to find and are usually known as "square drive" (the non-trademarked generic name, since they're not made by Robertson)
@@scottroy6195 never use phillips on anything but drywall. The screws he shows here we always get in torx or star drive. The bits by makita hold up better and dont cam out on star drive. Phillips head is basically obsolete here for any screw requiring strength
For lateral pressure (like weight hanging from a fastener on a wall), you can improve performance by adding a vertical metal strip like a TV wall mounting bracket. Once the fastener grips the stud, the friction between the mounting bracket bracket and the dry wall also comes into play to support the hanging weight!
I got about an 80lb. floating vanity that I will be hanging on thick metal brackets. I'm thinking since the brackets are low and I know that there are no wires or pipes running through the studs, I'll probably go with three 3" #10s for each bracket.
This is a great topic and you’re right about how many subjects can be covered regarding screws. I think what should be added in this conversation is what size hole to predrill. Future suggested conversations... Screw size needed for job Course vs fine thread Types of heads, (pan, flat, button, Phillips, Star etc.) Exterior vs interior Types of lag bolts How tight to screw a lag bolt Others have covered these topics, but you have a unique style that is short and to the point, yet adequate. You also carry enough energy and enthusiasm to keep people focused on your words.
Good info on selecting screws with the right length for the job. I've noticed a several woodworking videos skip that info and just tell you or give you the length to use for that specific project and call it good.
Informative video. A type of screw I've recently found useful in the correct circumstances are GRK finish/trim screws These work great for thinner dimensions of wood, especially if it's going to be reinforced with glue. No need for pilot holes and they countersink themselves.
I saw on another RUclips video about lubricating screws. I've begun wiping screws with a rag damp with WD-40 and let me tell you, it's wonderful. Less pressure, especially on smaller pieces, results in fewer breaks in the wood.
@@dancahill9122 soap may be alkaline so it is not good for metal. But it is not something you have to worry about for some time. Although I have seen its effects in older projects I've done. So it is not like it is something you never have to worry about. Now I use paraffin wax which has more uses in the workshop anyways. Although wax is less common. A box of wax will last you a long time.
Very helpful! I was looking for this exact video years ago when I was just getting started in the world of DIY. Thanks a million. I'll be sharing this with others.
Thank you for the tips. I've been using self tapping drywall screws to predrill It works very well, especially in hardwood. Takes care of the dept, pins the work together quickly, and easy to change out when necessary.
Super helpful; thank you! I appreciate the basics. I'm trying to learn more about handyman things so I can take care of my house myself, and these basic things really help. Maybe a brief overview of which types of screws/materials this would apply to would be useful at the beginning if you make more tips/tricks videos.
Excellent video presentation. It can be confusing trying to select a fastener for appropriate use. Please add more videos about screws and nails. Especially nailing patterns.
There are lots of free drill charts available. Pilot hole size are dependant on material, thread pitch, and fastener type. I have a chart on my phone, including tap drills. Makes it easy.
I have always selected the size of the pilot drill bit by holding the bit next to the screw to be used. I select the bit that is equal to the size of the solid center part of the screw with the screw threads showing on either side of my drill bit. It has always turned out to be the correct pilot hole size.
Before I started getting serious with woodworking, I, like many, used drywall screws almost all the time - While cheap and convenient, they are not string and have little shear strength do to their thinness. Heads often break off when using harder or thicker woods and if you have to remove them later.
3:30 Withdrawal pressure is called tension It can also be called stress which is the force per unit area. Stress results in strain in the material which is the deformation of the material subjected to stress.
while installing water heater straps in a customers garage, i screwed through a 220 wiring that fed the kitchen oven opposite that wall. when i was holding one of the straps and touched the water heater, things became very exciting.
@@kooale putting a 3/8 lag bolt into a stud to secure the water heater straps. i had not been the house, so was unaware of the location of the kitchen. when i began to wrap the strap around the heater, i got zapped. most likely i nicked the wiring with the lag bolt, so i got a shock instead of electrocuted. i removed the bolt and moved it about 2 inches higher. no issues after that.
I remember when our contractor was drilling through our floor in the kitchen to run a gas line to our new stove. The existing stove was electric and we wanted gas. I asked him how he knew he wasn't going to run into any wiring or plumbing, and he brushed me off. Well, about 5 seconds later things got quite exciting when he hit the 220 for the range. I heard a loud bang and saw a massive flash. Fortunately he was OK.
Very helpful. A lifetime ago when I worked in the trades, Americans couldn't get "robertson" (i.e. square head) screws. I never knew why that was, given that square heads are so much less likely to strip when you sink them or (worse) need to pull them out after years. Anyway, thanks for the very informative videos. Take care.
When pre-drilling holes, it should be a clearance hole in the top piece allowing the screw to pass-through and held by the head. The pilot hole in the bottom piece should be the root diameter of the thread. (The smallest diameter of the screw between the threads.)
As someone who is finding themselves taking care of a house for the first time, whose dad is a computer guy THANK YOU for making this channel and these videos. They have helped me save money and be a better homeowner by giving me the ability to make small repairs around my house that a handyman would be overkill for 😭🤘🏻invaluable content.
My 2 cents, I find that Phillips head screws frequently cam out especially in reverse with an impact gun, I’d suggest star drive or torque drive screws. Square drive is another alternative. Also for different thickness of woods the screw diameter (6 8 9-10) can be very important especially if your using wood that splits easily or is close to an edge. As you point out when shear or hanging strength is needed also is a factor of screw diameter. Pre drilling counter sunk holes & not over driving & use the torque limiting setting on your impact gun is critical to avoid splitting and insure the best connection. For us DYI’s screws (vs nails) allow us to correct our mistakes so much easier than nails due to ease of removal.
Phillips head screws are literally designed to cam out. It was an intentional feature to keep from over tightening. Try JIS, or Japanese Industrial Standard, screwdrivers and bits. They bite much better.
It may be important to note that when well secured, the shear strength is reduced by the frictional hold to the wall by the pull the screw exerts upon the length of the beam against the wall. So if your screws are not pulling the beam tight, then the shear force will be higher than if the board is perfectly pulled flat and tight to the wall.
In order to get maximum holding power, drill a pilot hole through both pieces and then a clearance hole through the piece being attached. This draws the piece being attached up tight against the wall.
I am American and I wish we would convert to the metric system here. Everyone else uses it, it makes sense (10 base instead of 12”, 3 feet, ick!), and what kind of asinine system of measurement is empiric? Based on the length of a king, ruler or emperors what? Who the hell thought that was a good idea? Oh yeah, the a-hole king, ruler or emperor. Jackwads.
Love this info! I am a crazy DIYer and never really thought that much about screw size and length to compensate for sheer or direction on grain, etc. Thank you!
Very good .. One other consideration is grain lines . Sometimes even properly distanced screws of a particular caliber can result in splittage if grain isn't considered
Good tips! It may help to address threads- course vs. fine-depending on the wood density. Typically, I’ll use fine thread only with hard wood, which should always be pre-drilled. Course threads are best for softwood, and typically do not pre-drill unless it’s close to the end or going into a thin board, which generally creates splitting.
I've used #8 deck screws for years with a #2 Robertson bit for years without issue. I drill, countersink, run in the screws with a drill, and tighten the screws by hand. Typical screw lengths are 1-1/4, 1-1/2, and 3 inches (32, 38, and 76 mm). My personal guide for length is if there is a chance the end will protrude at all, use the next shorter length (ie; 1-1/4" for joining two 3/4" (19 mm) thick boards.
The hardness of the wood definitely matters! I've been used to 2x4s and plywood, and then used brass (a match to the existing hardware) screws on an old oak cabinet. I did NOT drill big enough pilot holes-- the heads of the first two screws twisted right off, just before they were sunk all the way in. Drilled pilot holes bigger for the rest, but getting those busted screws out is a challenge I haven't tackled yet.
@@AS-ug2vq Ok A S thank you for the tip! I think I'll practice that before calamity happens on something that matters, like a highly visible spot on an oak cabinet. Also thinking that brass screws the guy above used might be rather "soft", as brass is a mixture of metals, no? Similarly, an exterior coated screw might be harder or denser than a drywall screw...?
@@Sheila-cm4jy brass is ofc very soft. Drywall screws are hard and brittle. Coated ones are not that hard but coating is very thin so it's hardness never matters. It mostly serves for rust prevention
I'm going to be building some shelves with "H" frames for the uprights. I was wondering just how far to screw into the cross pieces and this video has the answer! Two thumbs up. Thanks.
Hi Ethan. I continue to enjoy your great material and awesome delivery. It just makes everything clear and easy. Watching down here in Australia it would be really helpful if you could somehow convert feet, inches and fractions of inches into their metric equivalents. Maybe as a small text box on the screen as you talk...? Anyway, keep up the great work!
@@mikejones-vd3fg Actually, he’s asking about conversion from imperial to metric, not from fractions of imperial units to their equivalent percentages, so the smug response is denotes a lack of reading comprehension, not to mention plain meanness. Try reading a bit more carefully next time, and if in doubt, can it.
If you are building a permit required structure you need to check with the inspector. Some jusistictions do not allow drivescrews on any joint subject to shear as they are a lot harder than nails. Some may have additional specific spacing and sizes required.
I've just recently started worrying about what's in the wall. I suspect that many people don't appreciate the risk of damaging plumbing and electrical wiring. It's good to think about how to avoid damaging them.
Love your work mate. Solid, essential tips and tricks. Great for DIY. Keep it up! Not sure if you've done something on using string lines and levels. If not, that would be excellent. Thanks.
It could be a good thing to actually make a video on putting fasteners, or drilling into walls, floors and ceilings. There is much destruction that can occur! This would be a great addition to giving people ideas on how to use fasteners. I have myself been extremely close to creating disasters, so I know by experience that there is much to say about being careful..
Thanks for the 1/3-2/3 Rule of Thumb for screw length... very helpful. Is there a rule of thumb for screw thickness going into the side/end of material? e.g. screw diameter should be less than 1/3 or 1/2 of the material thickness, or similar kind of guidance?
I was using #6 and #8 wood screws from lowes and home depot, mostly to attach T-Tracks. I found that driving them in, the screw would break, and since it was a T-Track it was very hard to get them out, and I could not just do a new hole. For other projects I would just leave the screw in and cover up the hole, but here I really needed it in that exact spot, and it was the last step on a complex project, so I just left that spot without a screw. I pre drilled, used wax. I finally found that I could order better quality screws from McFeely's, which in addition could be used with either phillips or square bits, never have had a bit break before. It sounds like the screws at the big box stores use the cheapest metal possible, so I was running into defective screws, and getting Candian made screws from the company that originated the square drive ( which I learned about only afterwards ) gave me a higher quality screw. Probably why you prefer deck screws. I would like to know if there are ways to remove screws where the head broke off, or if you have other ideas on this subject. It seems like the products for removing are geared towards #8 and above, and even then don't seem to work that well.
i literally had a class on screws when i joined millwright union, not only is there grades of them, but also you have to consider threads per inch, so like that lag screw, compared to a machine screw. odd how many difference there are in little spinny sticks
Put a little paste wax around the tip of the screw, and a little on the countersink head. Makes it much easier to drive. Also makes it possible to use smaller pilot holes.
I have watched a number of your videos and YES they are helpful. Appreciate how you keep on topic and offer bits of info that can be put to use right away. Thank You Honest Carpenter!!
With so many options in thread type and head type (phillips, torx, square, hex etc) I would love to hear your recommendations for various types of situations.
In Canada we have 2 screw types, commonly referred to as Robertson and "those f-ing " Phillips. When I buy any item with screws supplied I always buy Robertson replacements and immediately throw the Phillips in the trash.
What kind of screw could I use when building a desk for my kids. Made of 2 by 4s........ Also can you also talk about Philip screws vs the star crews and what drill bit to use (drill vs impact)...... Thank you
I have rusted screws break off a hook against my vinyl siding outside. Should I drill out the rusty broken screw with a drill bit first and then put in a new screw? Or should I start a whole fresh new screw hole? I’m trying to keep the amount of holes to a minimum for esthetics. Thanks!
You could definitely do a whole series on fasteners. Because the screws you've been dealing with are for wood, but there's also ones that do metal or concrete
I’d appreciate some elaboration on the screw diameter. I’m screwing into a one inch thick piece of wood and wondering if #8 is too thick and 6 would be better or whether 6 is too thin
This was a good video, I learned some information I didnt know, thank you I will be consulting this video, again next time I am doing shelves at home, I appreciated this information, iam always wondering what types of screws and fasteners to use on masonary walls, when putting up shelves that I need them to be very strong, to hold some weight in this case 4kg to 5kg I'm building a water wall project at home, wood work is very interesting you've got me considering taking a course in carpentry & joinery, thank you, Laura in uk
Good tips. I avoid ever using screws in end grain, and going with some other form of buttressing or joinery, keeping in mind the orientation of the weight over top. If its just holding a top to a beam, then I won't bother too much, but if not- then I figure on some kind of lap joint of other trick to help out.
Great vid! You answered a couple questions I had, (but forgot to find out,) doing past jobs. You also explained a couple things I hadn’t thought of. Thanks Ethan!
You mentioned wire penetration when driving your screw into a wall. A good plumber or electrician will use a metal plate (I believe they are called "stud guards" to protect plumbing and wires). These plates are designed to stop screw/nail from being driven into pipes and wires that cross through studs. They are about 4 inches long and may prevent driving your screw at a specific location. Thought they deserved a mention.
Nice video! You'll also generally want to take into account that matching the length of the section of the screw that has no threads on it (close to the head) to the thickness of the "top" piece will make it easier to pull that top piece snug and "into" the bottom piece.
Excellent video! Basic knowledge, prevents the most common mistakes. I would also like to see one about coastal regions and securing pressure-treated wood for longest life.
At some point in time, maybe cover pocket hole joints and related screws. I use the pocket hole screws for most of my projects that do not require a recessed head. Also, using sheet metal screws in wood. thanks Great video!
I am watching this great channel from Europe - not UK - and learning a lot. Even though I am ok with the imperial units I would suggest to add also some description in metric units for English speaking audience from "metric part of the globe:) thanks a lot for your awesome work 👍
Very good video 👍 When hanging something I like to use Spax type screws they are structural screws I always try to avoid screwing into end grain but use pocket screws if practical
Super! Super! Super helpful video! (I didn’t mean that you were the Super. LOL 😂!) I was stumped 🤔 when I went into Home Depot 2 weeks ago trying 2 find out what kind of screws to purchase. This video cleared up my confusion in a matter of minutes! I hope you can make another video about the different gauges and temper strength of screws to buy. I need this information too! However, many thanks for the information you provided in this video!
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Pre-drilling is often important to prevent splitting.
I asked a 3rd generation carpenter what tool would he recommend for DIYers he said ditch the old school battery drill and get a good lithium battery impact driver. I did and BOY DOES IT MAKE A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE! No more predrilling. The drill will drive EVERYTHING! What I do is go about half way in then back out and watch the wood shavings pour out then I just drive the screw in that way it doesn't split the wood. Works great as it serves the same purpose without having to predrill. It gets the shavings out so the wood isn't expanded too much. So it prevents splitting.
Also I find most old school guys just press the impact/drill button at full power all the time. What I do is start slow, to get it started, then full speed at mid length, then right at the last quarter I slow down to barely flush mount the screw heads. Oh and I only use T-25 star/Torc head screws the only thing that is better is square heads as both are harder to strip.
And alignment!
i know it's kinda randomly asking but do anyone know a good place to stream newly released movies online?
@@chaimterrance7621 from your sisters house
Chopping the sharp end off the screw / nail also works for reasons I don’t understand: ruclips.net/video/33IDFPknShw/видео.html
As someone with a somewhat limited knowledge of woodworking and just getting into basic carpentry, your videos are a blessing to me. As a result, I'm taking on the challenge of replacing boards on my deck. Just wanted to say thanks and keep up the good work!
How did it go/is it going?
Awesome video. Very well explained. Really helped me out. Thank you!
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
Minor correction:
Screws hold *better* when they are pre-drilled with a pilot hole.
(Removing material for the core allows the threads to cut in a uniform fashion, avoiding distortion. This increases, not decreases, holding strength.)
-Good video👌
Interesting. Thanks for this little detail.
@@KMSchriver You're welcome. Mamy torque specs assume fasteners are pre-drilled, and nuts are lubricated before fastening because they fasten tighter. That is not widely known, however.
Back in the day, wood screws were the only thing around. You would drill the diameter of the screw for the first board and then have a smaller pilot hole for the second board to cure withdrawal pressure. That still stands today for whatever screw is used today. If you think you are going to get pull out or withdrawal pressure, just drill the diameter of the screw for the first board. The head of screw will cinch up the 2 boards
I've seen screws that have steeper threads in the top third and normal threads in the bottom two thirds. They are meant to pull the board that's being attached tight against the wood it's being attached to. With that type of screw would it be better to leave the pilot hole the same narrower diameter in both pieces?
@@ethanheyne To me, that would be a "test it on a couple of scrap pieces first", preferably on the same type of wood that you are joining together, to see if getting pull out. Different types of woods or plywoods are more ornery than others..lol. If you can get away with just one pilot hole, great, that's less work. But drilling the diameter of the screw in the first board is a sure method. Nothing more frustrating than being in the air while trying to screw something to wall, ceiling, etc and it pulling out. Or if even doing with a glue up, and clamps and getting a gap from the boards not cinching together. My dad was a aerospace engineer, and he always said the the head of a screw/bolt has tremendous holding power. Of course, he wasn't driving brittle drywall screws with some of the more powerful drills we have today. LOL, LOL
I think that a lot of viewers would really appreciate it if the screw size-lenght-dimensions was in metric as well as imperial.
Keep up the good work!
I like the one-thirds/two-thirds rule; it allows you to adapt your screw length to exactly the thickness of the materials you are working with.
I've had instances where I needed to screw boards flat, but had screws that were slightly too long (I didn't order them). In that case, I just angle the screw slightly, making sure the boards don't slide and the screw doesn't exit. Simple but effective, especially if you put the next screw in from the reverse angle. Of course, don't be afraid to pre-drill the holes, especially if it's fragile work such as trim.
Toe in is great and actually provides more strength, but the caveat is that it can be tricky to get the head of the screw flush w/ the board. Another alternative is (if you have the time) to cut the end of the screw that's sticking out so it's flush.
Hi Ethan. Just thinking of a few screw topics that you may want to discuss later. Two that come to mind are different drive options (#2 square / torx / phillips / etc??) and different coatings / materials (a lot of people use the wrong screw type - particularly in CCA treated timber). This video was fairly concise - that's good. A bit more depth in discussion around pilot holes such as when there may be advantage in drilling an over sized hole on the face piece to allow the stock to pull together without binding and when to counter sink may be worth while. Also scewing (angling) screws to improve holding power and fastening from each side where you have access.
I really love the square head screws. Phillips heads are so annoying, as you almost never can tell when they are going to slip on you. And if the screw is inferior metal, you've got little chance of driving it in all the way, unless you put a tonne of force on your driver. Obviously the stronger timber screws are usually ok, but I just loathe Phillips heads.
square head (Robertson) are the best screws to use.
In the UK Pozidrive are pretty standard, better than Phillips but not as goos as Torx (which I use) or Robertson. Robertson, probably the best of the lot, are almost completely unavailable in the UK except as decking screws occasionally.
@@Dyrck Shame can't get Robertson in the UK. I'm from Canada originally and that's mostly what we used.
@@glenpaul3606 There's a really interesting video about the history and why they didn't take off in the USA ruclips.net/video/R-mDqKtivuI/видео.html
Thanks Ethan. Didn’t realize end grain needed more length to stabilize the screw
I think it's stronger to also angle end grain screws where possible to cross the grain along its length
I've used this method in some situations as well, Steve. Sort of like a toenail.
@@SteveRogers461 End grain offers little bite on any fastener
End grain doesn’t hold screws as well as cross grain, but, glue will,help a lot.
This explanation makes a lot of sense. I had been taught that, in general, the screw length should be twice the thickness of the wood that one is attaching. i.e. a 3" nail through a 2x4. But I found myself making adjustments.
An additional tip when drilling the pilot hole, use a bit that is roughly 1/3 to 1/2 the diameter of the threads. With lag screws or bolts go up to 3/4 of the diameter for the pilot hole to prevent splitinig.
I've also begun using a nail set to make a divot for the drill bit.
Sometimes the pilot needs to be the same caliber as the screw /lag . Some situations !! Like a deck ledger
@@dennisrayl3485 An awl works well too. I have a leather punch on my swiss army knife that does a similar job.
@@IVORY123100 I was thinkin' the same thing. The harder the wood, like he said, the closer in diameter to the actual screw.
There are lots of free charts available.
Pilot hole size are dependant on material, thread pitch, and fastener type.
Thank you, this is good information.
The most common critique I hear from TV builders is “don’t use drywall screws for everything, they are too brittle” and as I work on my own home I find the previous owner used drywall screws for everything from mounting a light fixture in the bathroom to hanging wire shelves in the closet. Problem is, I don’t know what’s right.
So, deck screws for everything not attaching drywall to a wall stud? I also like screws with something other than the Phillips drive, it strips out too easily.
I really need a video on thread widths!
I’m so grateful for all your videos.
Thanks Paula! I'll see what I can do. I'm moving to a new shop space, and I'll definitely do a lot more videos on screws in the future :)
The Honest Carpenter can give his opinion as mine is just one thought on it. In my experience thread widths can be a problem if they split the wood. Usually once you pick the max length screw you can use without the screw sticking through the other side or at least 1" to 1-1/2" deep in both pieces of wood, the screw's width should be good for that application. Usually predrilling will allow the wood to have a hole but enough wood still to allow the threads of the screw to hold. This also gets the wood shavings out so when you drive the screw it doesn't expand the wood too much and split it. What I do is use an impact driver compared to a regular drill. The impact driver "knocks" or impacts the spinning bit when it slows down due to resistance. You will hear it impact/knocking as you drive a screw into wood as it gets harder to drive. The advantage is the impact driver will DRIVE EVERYTHING no predrilling needed. So what I do is drive the screw (T-25 star/Torc head as they are very hard to strip) half way then back out to allow the wood shavings to come out. This allows the wood to not have to over expand and split. Then drive the screw flush mounted. Also most people just press the drive button on drills/impact drivers at full power all the time. What I do is start slow to get started then press to full power until about one quarter of the way then slow down at the end to make sure you flush mount the screw head instead of accidentally burying the screw head half way in the board. My 70yr old dad still does this even after I showed and explained that if the screw goes through the other end it can't hold the board.
I have always wondered what the formula was for screw length. Always just eyeballed it. But now I will keep the 1/3 × 2/3 proportion in mind. Thanks for this and a lot of other videos of yours I have recently watched. Keep it up!
this is an important topic for DIY where I don't know what screw size and length to use
Thanks Early Riser!
Or what thickness of board?
Great video! I nearly always pre -drill. Not only stops splitting but also guides the screw straight so grain won't affect it. I use 4 mm or 3mm for 90% of pre drill holes. I buy these bits in 10s they last for years!
I used the same ones you featured before I tried the torx screws which is all I use now. Good topic.
Love em. So much needless suffering trying to drive long phillips screws.
I so wish the whole industry would just switch over once and for all. Larger production runs would bring down the cost, and the bit is almost always included, so adoption is really very easy, whether for DIY or professional applications.
They are the best.
Pre drilling the attachment to the thickness of the screw shaft will enable the development of friction between the surfaces and increases “shear” strength.
Love your presentations and tips.
You're such a good teacher.
You helped me as a novice laborer fit in on the jobsite quickly, and also as a homeowner and DIY-er. Thanks so much!
That’s awesome to hear, Cory! Thanks so much for watching, and writing in to let me know! 😄
Great tips. I might suggest adding that you want to avoid driving screws in the same grain too close to each other. This often leads to the screws acting like wedges and the wood splitting along the grain. This can be avoided by observing the grain and altering screw positions accordingly.
Have you ever used Robertson head screws?
Great Canadian invention.
Robertson is only here? I was wondering why his deck screw were Phillips. Nasty
@@scottroy6195 They're most common in Canada because of Robertson. They exist elsewhere, but are usually harder to find and are usually known as "square drive" (the non-trademarked generic name, since they're not made by Robertson)
@@jonathanvernon7251 Thanks for the info mate. Oh the world has to catch up they are so much better than Phillips. I hate Phillips.
@@scottroy6195 never use phillips on anything but drywall. The screws he shows here we always get in torx or star drive. The bits by makita hold up better and dont cam out on star drive. Phillips head is basically obsolete here for any screw requiring strength
Robertson are simply square head screws and are the best screws to use especially with powered tools.
For lateral pressure (like weight hanging from a fastener on a wall), you can improve performance by adding a vertical metal strip like a TV wall mounting bracket. Once the fastener grips the stud, the friction between the mounting bracket bracket and the dry wall also comes into play to support the hanging weight!
I got about an 80lb. floating vanity that I will be hanging on thick metal brackets. I'm thinking since the brackets are low and I know that there are no wires or pipes running through the studs, I'll probably go with three 3" #10s for each bracket.
This is a great topic and you’re right about how many subjects can be covered regarding screws. I think what should be added in this conversation is what size hole to predrill.
Future suggested conversations...
Screw size needed for job
Course vs fine thread
Types of heads, (pan, flat, button, Phillips, Star etc.)
Exterior vs interior
Types of lag bolts
How tight to screw a lag bolt
Others have covered these topics, but you have a unique style that is short and to the point, yet adequate. You also carry enough energy and enthusiasm to keep people focused on your words.
Good info on selecting screws with the right length for the job. I've noticed a several woodworking videos skip that info and just tell you or give you the length to use for that specific project and call it good.
Informative video. A type of screw I've recently found useful in the correct circumstances are GRK finish/trim screws These work great for thinner dimensions of wood, especially if it's going to be reinforced with glue. No need for pilot holes and they countersink themselves.
I saw on another RUclips video about lubricating screws. I've begun wiping screws with a rag damp with WD-40 and let me tell you, it's wonderful. Less pressure, especially on smaller pieces, results in fewer breaks in the wood.
A lot of woodworkers use beeswax.
@@jobacuda4472 Even common bar soap or liquid soap works also. 😊
@@dancahill9122 soap may be alkaline so it is not good for metal. But it is not something you have to worry about for some time. Although I have seen its effects in older projects I've done. So it is not like it is something you never have to worry about. Now I use paraffin wax which has more uses in the workshop anyways. Although wax is less common. A box of wax will last you a long time.
Very helpful! I was looking for this exact video years ago when I was just getting started in the world of DIY. Thanks a million. I'll be sharing this with others.
You're welcome, BJ!
I've also learned that lining screws up along the grain can split wood in half... I learned that the hard way. Always offset.
True. That's exactly the technique used by stone cutters who *want* to split with feathers and wedges.
This was VERY helpful! I’m putting up a header board for hanging a sliding barn door, and this answered all my questions.
Yes I really needed to know about what screws to for the depth of materials used. It's makes a difference. Thank you again.
Thank you for the tips. I've been using self tapping drywall screws to predrill It works very well, especially in hardwood. Takes care of the dept, pins the work together quickly, and easy to change out when necessary.
I knew that some sort of length would be needed with fastening objects together. This video gave me excellent clarity and understanding. Thank You
You're welcome, William!
Super helpful; thank you! I appreciate the basics. I'm trying to learn more about handyman things so I can take care of my house myself, and these basic things really help. Maybe a brief overview of which types of screws/materials this would apply to would be useful at the beginning if you make more tips/tricks videos.
Thanks. I'm a DIYfer. Other than the obvious not enough screw penetration, I've always wondered.
Excellent video presentation. It can be confusing trying to select a fastener for appropriate use. Please add more videos about screws and nails. Especially nailing patterns.
There are lots of free drill charts available.
Pilot hole size are dependant on material, thread pitch, and fastener type.
I have a chart on my phone, including tap drills. Makes it easy.
I have always selected the size of the pilot drill bit by holding the bit next to the screw to be used. I select the bit that is equal to the size of the solid center part of the screw with the screw threads showing on either side of my drill bit. It has always turned out to be the correct pilot hole size.
Before I started getting serious with woodworking, I, like many, used drywall screws almost all the time - While cheap and convenient, they are not string and have little shear strength do to their thinness. Heads often break off when using harder or thicker woods and if you have to remove them later.
3:30 Withdrawal pressure is called tension It can also be called stress which is the force per unit area. Stress results in strain in the material which is the deformation of the material subjected to stress.
while installing water heater straps in a customers garage, i screwed through a 220 wiring that fed the kitchen oven opposite that wall. when i was holding one of the straps and touched the water heater, things became very exciting.
💥🤣
Scary, Norm! I've always said, if you're going to mess up like that, cross your fingers and hope for 110 😅
Details Norm? Speak!
@@kooale putting a 3/8 lag bolt into a stud to secure the water heater straps. i had not been the house, so was unaware of the location of the kitchen. when i began to wrap the strap around the heater, i got zapped. most likely i nicked the wiring with the lag bolt, so i got a shock instead of electrocuted. i removed the bolt and moved it about 2 inches higher. no issues after that.
I remember when our contractor was drilling through our floor in the kitchen to run a gas line to our new stove. The existing stove was electric and we wanted gas. I asked him how he knew he wasn't going to run into any wiring or plumbing, and he brushed me off. Well, about 5 seconds later things got quite exciting when he hit the 220 for the range. I heard a loud bang and saw a massive flash.
Fortunately he was OK.
Very helpful. A lifetime ago when I worked in the trades, Americans couldn't get "robertson" (i.e. square head) screws. I never knew why that was, given that square heads are so much less likely to strip when you sink them or (worse) need to pull them out after years.
Anyway, thanks for the very informative videos. Take care.
Screws placed in a Travers pattern is my goto choice when possible. Think of setting the screws on the points of a triangle.
Great information. Now I won't "screw up" another project.
🤣🤣🤣
When pre-drilling holes, it should be a clearance hole in the top piece allowing the screw to pass-through and held by the head. The pilot hole in the bottom piece should be the root diameter of the thread. (The smallest diameter of the screw between the threads.)
As someone who is finding themselves taking care of a house for the first time, whose dad is a computer guy THANK YOU for making this channel and these videos. They have helped me save money and be a better homeowner by giving me the ability to make small repairs around my house that a handyman would be overkill for 😭🤘🏻invaluable content.
Thanks for watching, Emily! 😄
My 2 cents, I find that Phillips head screws frequently cam out especially in reverse with an impact gun, I’d suggest star drive or torque drive screws. Square drive is another alternative. Also for different thickness of woods the screw diameter (6 8 9-10) can be very important especially if your using wood that splits easily or is close to an edge. As you point out when shear or hanging strength is needed also is a factor of screw diameter. Pre drilling counter sunk holes & not over driving & use the torque limiting setting on your impact gun is critical to avoid splitting and insure the best connection. For us DYI’s screws (vs nails) allow us to correct our mistakes so much easier than nails due to ease of removal.
Have also come to appreciate star drive over Phillips.
Phillips head screws are literally designed to cam out. It was an intentional feature to keep from over tightening. Try JIS, or Japanese Industrial Standard, screwdrivers and bits. They bite much better.
It may be important to note that when well secured, the shear strength is reduced by the frictional hold to the wall by the pull the screw exerts upon the length of the beam against the wall. So if your screws are not pulling the beam tight, then the shear force will be higher than if the board is perfectly pulled flat and tight to the wall.
In order to get maximum holding power, drill a pilot hole through both pieces and then a clearance hole through the piece being attached. This draws the piece being attached up tight against the wall.
Please include metric units of measurement as well. Great video!
Most of what he mentioned would be roughly 25-30mm into the anchoring piece, so most attachments would need a 50-65mm long screw.
Yes, so the video can make more sense to the "rest of the world" ;-)
I am American and I wish we would convert to the metric system here. Everyone else uses it, it makes sense (10 base instead of 12”, 3 feet, ick!), and what kind of asinine system of measurement is empiric? Based on the length of a king, ruler or emperors what? Who the hell thought that was a good idea? Oh yeah, the a-hole king, ruler or emperor. Jackwads.
Love this info! I am a crazy DIYer and never really thought that much about screw size and length to compensate for sheer or direction on grain, etc. Thank you!
Thanks for watching, Becky! 😄
Very good .. One other consideration is grain lines . Sometimes even properly distanced screws of a particular caliber can result in splittage if grain isn't considered
That's why you pre-drill. It lessons splitting of the endgrain enormously !
Good tips! It may help to address threads- course vs. fine-depending on the wood density. Typically, I’ll use fine thread only with hard wood, which should always be pre-drilled. Course threads are best for softwood, and typically do not pre-drill unless it’s close to the end or going into a thin board, which generally creates splitting.
All very good points, habba, especially how important it is to pre-drill close to end grain! I've got "coarse vs. fine" in my future video notes now.
I've used #8 deck screws for years with a #2 Robertson bit for years without issue. I drill, countersink, run in the screws with a drill, and tighten the screws by hand. Typical screw lengths are 1-1/4, 1-1/2, and 3 inches (32, 38, and 76 mm). My personal guide for length is if there is a chance the end will protrude at all, use the next shorter length (ie; 1-1/4" for joining two 3/4" (19 mm) thick boards.
I think you're right about breaking it down into smaller subjects. Thanks for the good info!
The hardness of the wood definitely matters! I've been used to 2x4s and plywood, and then used brass (a match to the existing hardware) screws on an old oak cabinet. I did NOT drill big enough pilot holes-- the heads of the first two screws twisted right off, just before they were sunk all the way in. Drilled pilot holes bigger for the rest, but getting those busted screws out is a challenge I haven't tackled yet.
Eek. What a shame! Did you get the busted screws out yet? Curious about your plan of attack on that.
@@Sheila-cm4jy just drill them with a drill bit and run it in reverse , they'll come out with the drill bit.
@@AS-ug2vq Ok A S thank you for the tip! I think I'll practice that before calamity happens on something that matters, like a highly visible spot on an oak cabinet. Also thinking that brass screws the guy above used might be rather "soft", as brass is a mixture of metals, no? Similarly, an exterior coated screw might be harder or denser than a drywall screw...?
@@Sheila-cm4jy brass is ofc very soft.
Drywall screws are hard and brittle.
Coated ones are not that hard but coating is very thin so it's hardness never matters. It mostly serves for rust prevention
@@AS-ug2vq Thank you A S for explaining that!
I love how your vids are quick, detailed, easy to understand, and direct. Great stuff. I've watched four of your vids in a row. Thank you.
Thank you, Timmy! 😄
Good info! It might be worth talking about sheer strength of screws. Some have very little, some have a lot. :)
Good point, nails have better shear resistance than screws. Nails bend, screws will break for same strong shear stress.
Great tips all round. Cross grain lengtg wasn't something I'd considered properly so this will he'll going forward. Thanks.
I'm going to be building some shelves with "H" frames for the uprights. I was wondering just how far to screw into the cross pieces and this video has the answer! Two thumbs up. Thanks.
Screwing: My favorite hobby.
THANK YOU! Picture at 1:52 is exactly what i was looking for. Dont know why it was so hard to find this information. Many thanks!
Glad to hear, Garrett!
Hi Ethan. I continue to enjoy your great material and awesome delivery. It just makes everything clear and easy. Watching down here in Australia it would be really helpful if you could somehow convert feet, inches and fractions of inches into their metric equivalents. Maybe as a small text box on the screen as you talk...? Anyway, keep up the great work!
@@mikejones-vd3fg Actually, he’s asking about conversion from imperial to metric, not from fractions of imperial units to their equivalent percentages, so the smug response is denotes a lack of reading comprehension, not to mention plain meanness. Try reading a bit more carefully next time, and if in doubt, can it.
If you are building a permit required structure you need to check with the inspector. Some jusistictions do not allow drivescrews on any joint subject to shear as they are a lot harder than nails. Some may have additional specific spacing and sizes required.
I've just recently started worrying about what's in the wall. I suspect that many people don't appreciate the risk of damaging plumbing and electrical wiring. It's good to think about how to avoid damaging them.
Another great video with added helpful contributions below. Many thanks to all for expanding my knowledge.
Love your work mate. Solid, essential tips and tricks. Great for DIY. Keep it up! Not sure if you've done something on using string lines and levels. If not, that would be excellent. Thanks.
It could be a good thing to actually make a video on putting fasteners, or drilling into walls, floors and ceilings. There is much destruction that can occur! This would be a great addition to giving people ideas on how to use fasteners. I have myself been extremely close to creating disasters, so I know by experience that there is much to say about being careful..
Thanks for the 1/3-2/3 Rule of Thumb for screw length... very helpful. Is there a rule of thumb for screw thickness going into the side/end of material? e.g. screw diameter should be less than 1/3 or 1/2 of the material thickness, or similar kind of guidance?
Great communicator and simplified instructions
Good rules of thumb. The 2 forces are Tensile and Shear force. I never heard of withdrawal force in all my years.
That’s what we rednecks call it
A good topic to marry to this one is gluing. A good wood glue along with proper screwing makes a very strong joint.
I was using #6 and #8 wood screws from lowes and home depot, mostly to attach T-Tracks. I found that driving them in, the screw would break, and since it was a T-Track it was very hard to get them out, and I could not just do a new hole. For other projects I would just leave the screw in and cover up the hole, but here I really needed it in that exact spot, and it was the last step on a complex project, so I just left that spot without a screw.
I pre drilled, used wax. I finally found that I could order better quality screws from McFeely's, which in addition could be used with either phillips or square bits, never have had a bit break before. It sounds like the screws at the big box stores use the cheapest metal possible, so I was running into defective screws, and getting Candian made screws from the company that originated the square drive ( which I learned about only afterwards ) gave me a higher quality screw. Probably why you prefer deck screws.
I would like to know if there are ways to remove screws where the head broke off, or if you have other ideas on this subject. It seems like the products for removing are geared towards #8 and above, and even then don't seem to work that well.
I always learn something of value when watching your videos…thanks!
i literally had a class on screws when i joined millwright union, not only is there grades of them, but also you have to consider threads per inch, so like that lag screw, compared to a machine screw. odd how many difference there are in little spinny sticks
Put a little paste wax around the tip of the screw, and a little on the countersink head. Makes it much easier to drive. Also makes it possible to use smaller pilot holes.
I have watched a number of your videos and YES they are helpful. Appreciate how you keep on topic and offer bits of info that can be put to use right away. Thank You Honest Carpenter!!
can you please do a video on grk screws? I heard for them you don't need to predrill, they also countersink by themselves as well
With so many options in thread type and head type (phillips, torx, square, hex etc) I would love to hear your recommendations for various types of situations.
In Canada we have 2 screw types, commonly referred to as Robertson and "those f-ing " Phillips. When I buy any item with screws supplied I always buy Robertson replacements and immediately throw the Phillips in the trash.
What kind of screw could I use when building a desk for my kids. Made of 2 by 4s........ Also can you also talk about Philip screws vs the star crews and what drill bit to use (drill vs impact)...... Thank you
I've used deck screws with Torx heads for 2x4 projects.
I always (well almost) use an Impact driver when installing or removing screws
Adding screws for carpentry is fine but not so much for wood working unless they are concealed in an area that will not be visible.
I have rusted screws break off a hook against my vinyl siding outside. Should I drill out the rusty broken screw with a drill bit first and then put in a new screw? Or should I start a whole fresh new screw hole? I’m trying to keep the amount of holes to a minimum for esthetics. Thanks!
You could definitely do a whole series on fasteners. Because the screws you've been dealing with are for wood, but there's also ones that do metal or concrete
That's why the channel is called the honest "Carpenter". Make sense, carpenter, wood? Yes?
@@peterr7530 so you're saying people who do not use steel in their construction or concrete in their construction are not carpenters?
I’d appreciate some elaboration on the screw diameter. I’m screwing into a one inch thick piece of wood and wondering if #8 is too thick and 6 would be better or whether 6 is too thin
This was a good video, I learned some information I didnt know, thank you I will be consulting this video, again next time I am doing shelves at home, I appreciated this information, iam always wondering what types of screws and fasteners to use on masonary walls, when putting up shelves that I need them to be very strong, to hold some weight in this case 4kg to 5kg I'm building a water wall project at home, wood work is very interesting you've got me considering taking a course in carpentry & joinery, thank you, Laura in uk
Good tips. I avoid ever using screws in end grain, and going with some other form of buttressing or joinery, keeping in mind the orientation of the weight over top. If its just holding a top to a beam, then I won't bother too much, but if not- then I figure on some kind of lap joint of other trick to help out.
Pocket screws can work well. They don't wedge the end grain.
Great vid! You answered a couple questions I had, (but forgot to find out,) doing past jobs. You also explained a couple things I hadn’t thought of. Thanks Ethan!
Glad to hear! Thanks for watching, Steven.
You mentioned wire penetration when driving your screw into a wall.
A good plumber or electrician will use a metal plate (I believe they are called "stud guards" to protect plumbing and wires). These plates are designed to stop screw/nail from being driven into pipes and wires that cross through studs. They are about 4 inches long and may prevent driving your screw at a specific location.
Thought they deserved a mention.
I found this channel the other day and I’m glad I did. Good stuff. I went to his website and signed up also
Thank you! 🙏
All I am saying here is " Thank you for your lecture". Very educational.!
Nice video! You'll also generally want to take into account that matching the length of the section of the screw that has no threads on it (close to the head) to the thickness of the "top" piece will make it easier to pull that top piece snug and "into" the bottom piece.
Excellent video! Basic knowledge, prevents the most common mistakes. I would also like to see one about coastal regions and securing pressure-treated wood for longest life.
At some point in time, maybe cover pocket hole joints and related screws. I use the pocket hole screws for most of my projects that do not require a recessed head. Also, using sheet metal screws in wood. thanks Great video!
I am watching this great channel from Europe - not UK - and learning a lot. Even though I am ok with the imperial units I would suggest to add also some description in metric units for English speaking audience from "metric part of the globe:) thanks a lot for your awesome work 👍
Wood screws here (nz (went metric in 1975 I think)) are still imperial in length.
Any chance you could do a show on electric planer, changing blades and all please Ethan?
Very good video 👍
When hanging something I like to use Spax type screws they are structural screws
I always try to avoid screwing into end grain but use pocket screws if practical
Good video. Also, shear force should not be applied to the threaded portion of a fastener.
Great point, JHans! I'm going to have to include this in another video down the line. Thanks for bringing it up!
Good tip 1/3 to 2/3 easy to remember
Super! Super! Super helpful video! (I didn’t mean that you were the Super. LOL 😂!) I was stumped 🤔 when I went into Home Depot 2 weeks ago trying 2 find out what kind of screws to purchase. This video cleared up my confusion in a matter of minutes! I hope you can make another video about the different gauges and temper strength of screws to buy. I need this information too! However, many thanks for the information you provided in this video!
Thank you, rechavoc! I have the gauge video on the list-I’ll get to it soon! 🙂