Is it just me, or are the woodworking fellas and ladies of YT among the most well spoken Americans this side of the Ivy league lot. Gotta love somebody who can communicate clearly and peacefully.
as an almost 2 decade residential and commercial framer and carpenter I can assure you this man's advice is beyond invaluable to any homeowner or entry level craftsman. Thanks for providing your hard earned knowledge. ps I just bought a Burke bar. done without one for 17 years and instantly understood the applications when I saw it in your hands. Just like the press and your friend, I will think of you every time I use it. Thanks man
I had one a while back and didn't know what to do with it. I put it in the bottom of my tool bucket for a while but that wasn't useful at all. I keep so many fasteners with me I have five snap together organizers, three with screws and two for nails but I think I'll give the parachute bag a try again now that I know what it's good for.
I've been working mostly in the remodeling construction trade for 20+ years. I haven't done much framing and I learned a bunch from one of these videos. I'm mainly a tile guy, flooring guy, drywall guy, ECT. But with the company I'm with now, I have to learn everything. And honestly, I'm freaking excited that I get to learn the stuff that I don't know. LOVE THIS CHANNEL!!!!!
I am teaching the next generation of carpenters here in Pasadena, Texas. I use your videos constantly to teach because I love how concise you are (and entertaining). Thank you for the entire series. I'm driving up your views by a factor of about 50 kids every year. Thanks for all your help and insight.
I’m 25 years old, and I still practice pounding nails into scrap in my garage. Love using the nail guns, and boy do they speed things up, but everybody should still know how to pound a nail by hand, efficiently.
Same here. I like using hand tools sometimes even when I have the power option. It feels like you gain back some aspect of it that's lost with power tools or something.
I'm almost the opposite of you, sort of. I'm a semi-professional musician/songwriter who recently discovered carpentry and home repair. My wife and I bought an 1880 Italianate Victorian home 2 years ago that has become my art project. I also started working for a contractor friend and have learned so much in a relatively short time, that it gave me the confidence to rip apart our bay window roof and reframe it in preparation for my own, hand-cut and shaped copper shingles. I've enjoyed your helpful tips for reference along the way, and appreciate how you present them via your production techniques: They're to-the-point and no nonsense- (some of the things I'm starting to implement in my own music videos.) Anyway, I liked you before, but I have a newly found respect after learning that you were a fellow musician. Keep it up.
Thanks for the walk down memory lane, I still have my yankee screw driver somewhere in the tool cabinets. How things have changed, I had 40 years in the trades and loved every minute of it. Was a GC in residential construction, the last 28 years. Keep the videos coming. God bless.
As an average guy, not in the trades but I build my own home, I haven't built a deck in 25 years. I recently built a small set of outdoor stairs and when I went to buy hardware to attach the ledger board to the house I couldn't even find the 1/2" hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts that were traditionally used. I was pointed to the GRK Structural screws instead. I bought them and checked out the specs and schedule online. Wow! What a difference and so much easier, I didn't even have to go into the basement for anything. The ledger board isn't going anywhere. I also decided to use stringer brackets along with the special screws from the bracket manufacturer...so much faster and easier. I'm pretty good at hammering, getting a lot of practice building wall sections for a builder one summer at age 15 but I've always hated pounding joist hanger nails as it can be difficult in a tight area. Great innovation not only for installation, but also for repair-ability too.
I do carpentry myself and the one best takeaway from this video...is that parachute bag!! Thank you for that tip, sir!! I do pole barns for a living and I also do corrugated metal roofing with the galvanized insulator screws, so I end up with these getting mixed in with the 16 pennies I use for kick plates. I also build and tear down concrete forms and end up having to get a separate pocket on my belt for them, since you can't use them in structural work, as you stated. Parachute bag = no problem
Great vid Scott. As a 40-year geologist, handyman, and furniture craftsman myself, I always love watching salt-of-the-earth souls like you who have made their living outdoors and under practical means about how to build and get things done. Just like Norm, Tom Silva, and the TOH tradesman gang! And especially so around the Fall and Winter months when hot cups of coffee from my Stanley thermos begin either my fieldwork or shop days amidst the crisp air and/or snow. Keep on trucking!
Back in 80 I started to make furniture in an old timers one man shop, he was 67 and I was 18 boss only had hand screw drivers, so I hacksawed the handles off and mounted them in a corded 1 speed no reversing plug in drill. He later went out and got me one that reversed.
When I was growing up we moved a lot. So Dad built a number of pkywood boxes for kitchen, linens, etc. But he drove the screws in with a hammer up to a point, then used a Yankee Screwdriver to seat them. Now with him gone I sometimes have to repair those boxes. Thanks for this video. I'm subscribing to see what else you do that I can learn from.
Just finished a 2400 square foot home completely with GRK screws. we were trying to recount the total number. The closest we can come up with is around 46,000 not kidding you. The only nails used was for the corner metal edging on the dry wall. I do think you have some of the best videos going. Keep up the good work. I appreciate your ability to get to the point no sense wasting words or the oxygen in doing so.
Over 20 Years I've been a general contractor... I find this man's video's incredibly informative and I learn something new with each one he produces. I really look forward to each and every video and watch them all... sometimes even binge watching...lol
Just bought my first set of Torx head screws this weekend repairing a shed behind the house I'm selling. Never used them before and wanted to see if they were worth the fuss. They were. I'm a convert now.
The trick is.. everyone that will work on your shed after you will either hate you because they're not Torx converts and they don't know what it is, or they will love you because they're also Torx converts.
I converted to square (Robertson) from Phillips. Torx is great with two major draw backs. 1.) it doesn’t sit on the bit as well as a square #2 which makes it more difficult to use when working by yourself one handed. 2.) for most general stuff you end up using #8 and #10 screws. For Torx that means having a T-20 and T-25 and switching back and forth. Both those common screw sizes come with Robertson #2 bit sizes making it easier all around for most applications I do. GRK makes really bad ass screws and for structural applications, a T-25 and GRK or TimberLOK screws are where it’s at. For fences and sheds etc? I’ll use the square #2 bit and be done with it
@@nsatoday I'm with you on the TImberlok and headlok's. Worth every penny. I built a little bridge type thing access my mother's barn. She was using old pallets to cross the 'moat' into the feed room. Every now and then a horse would horse it's way into the feed home and destroy the pallet bridge. There's no way deck screws would have held up to that kind of stress.
55 yr old carpenter here. All my life. Even back in infant school the caretaker would bring in wood so I could ‘put it together’. I love my job as much as I can see you do. Recently subscribed to your channel as it’s a pleasure to watch. You explain everything so simply and straight forward. One thing I will say.. you made me realise just how much stuff I do know. The kinda things you take for granted. Common sense stuff. I hope someone takes care of my tools when I depart. 😀👍
I also like GRK, Spax has served well too; avoid "Fastap" they claim self drilling but the design is really self stripping, nails have better pull strength.(experience based on softwoods OSB and plywood) Drywall screws snap because they are only #5 or #6, cheap, and often thinnest just under the head, not because they are hard. Meanwhile deck screws tend to be #8, 9, or 10 and have a thicker section between head and thread. Likewise nails tend to have higher shear strength because they have a larger effective cross sectional area(based on minor/root diameter of the screw) and bearing surface, the harder steel in screws is as a basic material stronger in both tension and shear. ****** I agree that phillips should be avoided for anything other than drywall dimplers(wear camout is an advantage). Phillips is only popular because of the model-T and it was designed to cam-out in a time when production line power drivers lacked torque control. Torx are good for high torque but they weeble wobble all over and need two hands to get started straight, they also chose way too many bit sizes and there are two types [old torx and torx-plus newer & improved but less popular]. I prefer Robertson for general use, they have a slight taper that both sticks the screw to the bit and makes a very stable connection that can be started one handed, and 3 sizes covers most common screws, easy to accurately manufacture which is important with all the cost cutting low bit import products. Both Torx and Robertson bits resist rather than encourage cam out and the bit's wear ten times as long as phillips.
I'm a Machinist-Welder, I hate wood (Lumber) and it hates me. I butcher it occasionally only out of pure necessity. Up till about 2 years ago I never paid attention to other screws besides Drywall screws and used them for everything. Then I discovered Deck Screws. Then I discovered SPAX screws. Wood work goes a bit better now.
Great video! My father and brother are both in construction and know all these facts. Me on the other hand, I'm the DIY daughter who lives in another state that wish she had the knowledge they've gained over the years of working. I was searching for a video that would help me to identify the crazy amount of random screws I have in my home, your video was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you! I loved your comment about the skill of using a hammer being a lost art these days, I'm proud to say I was gifted my first tiny hammer 40 years ago when I helped my Dad build our home in Alaska. I can say with pride that I have that skill! :-) Thank you again for a great video.
Dude, I just became a subscriber. I started my career when you did. But done different things in between. You are my go to, and hero!!! When I started in 1980, I was framing 500,000.00 homes, now I'm remodeling and building additions on $million plus homes. I am using you for a go to on some things. Thank you. I appreciate you. God bless.
The thing I always liked about the square head (Robertson bit, if I remember right) is that it sticks on the bit magnet-free, because of the taper. Super handy, as the mag's can actually work against you, and the torx don't stick unless you've got magnetism.
Andrew Jones, I don't blame you ! I am 14 years older than him and wish I had grown up like him ! I am afraid he is one of a kind. As his good friend Cy Swan.
immediately bought a parachute bag after watching it's been extremely useful no more screw spills and always have the screws I need available instead of having to go to the truck to dig for them
Thanks so much for putting this video and others like it together. I walk into the store and I have no idea about the type of screws I need for a given job. This is awesome content and frankly, for someone who didn't have the upbringing that you were blessed with, it is full of quality information to help us along in our journeys.
i just have to add this, drywalls screw are pretty much different from ALL other construction screws when it comes to hardness. a drywall screw has zero plastic deformation before breakage. everything else will bend.
I finished high school in 1980, always worked construction trades. I now work as a access control and lock tech, coming from the low voltage electrical field. I too, started in building remodeling, and have worked in many of the trades. I am very thankful for the work you are doing. I hope you keep doing these videos, as they are a chronicle of what has happened in our time, in North America, in the building trades. Thank you for these videos.
Great video! Electralicec is an outdoor nightmare. I constantly see rookie craftsmen building fenses etc. With nails and screws that are for indoor use. And every time the rust runs down the board or side of the house trim... Come on at least use some galvanised products! Puch your nails, counter sink your screws! And caulk them in! Sub out the painting job! Sit back Crack a cold beverage, and pat your self on the back! because you just became a contractor😁 But I digress, I'm a 34 year old contractor working hard to do the jobs right! I watch all the videos I can. I have learned so much, but have much to learn. I started in high school in a carpentry skills trade class. Got a two year degree and started out framing houses. if had seen your video on on skill saw tricks. I would have made rookie of the year. Hats off your an inspiration Sir!!! with great knowledge and pressies intellect on the subjects of building trades. Great work and sir, thank you for taking the time to teach and inspire us to be better craftsmen! From forks W.a. have a great day
Just to add to the screw info, do not mistake Robertson for Square. They are two different driver/screw configurations. The square has 90 deg sides on both the driver tip and the screw where as the Robertson has a tapered shape to both screw and driver. Using a Robertson driver with a square screw will result in a loose fit more prone to slippage and stripping. Using a square driver in a Robertson screw will normally not reach the bottom of the screw and can result in Jamming your bit in the screw. To tell them apart often the sizing on the item will let you know what it is... 1, 2 ,3 = square, 6, 8, 10 Robertson or Green Red Black...
1:53 - What a cool screw display! And thanks for another super-helpful video. I was Class of '75, so I'm probably one year older than you. Still trying to find a replacement copy of my yearbook.
Oh my gosh, I love your videos! We have a few things in common, graduated from HS in 75, was a timber faller for 25 years, worked in the timber industry for 30 years. During seasonal lay offs and Lay offs due to spotted owls etc I did handy man work and built a 900 sq ft addition on or house in the 80's. No you tube back then, just Sunset how to books, lol! Never attained a level of skill beyond that of a wood butcher! These videos would have been so helpful back then but still, they are such a blessing to me now as I do projects around the house! Thanks for doing what you do!
I started doing full range carpentry in 1965. I remember using a Yankee screwdriver with a straight bit to set screws for hinges and hardware. OMG. I still have the scars. You are spot on about the types of screw drives: Slotted head screws suck completely; Phillips head screws suck mostly; Robertson square-drive screws are OK; Torx drive screws RULE! And GRK screws are the bomb!! Great video. Thanks!
I used some of those yellow screws on a redwood fence. I took the screws out perhaps 6 years later (replaced wood fence with steel fence). They looked pretty darn good. I re-used them. I find that the yellow screws snap less than the drywall screws. Also I believe the Lox head (modified square drive) has greater torque capacity than the Torx head. Square drive works just fine, though not quite as good as Torx (star bit). I can put my #12, 5" long stainless screws into wood pretty reliably with a good impact driver and a #2 square drive recess. Actually, the screws themselves tend to warp because the particular alloy of stainless that they manufactured this batch of screws with is overly soft. There are a great variety of hardnesses in stainless fasteners. The Simpson Strongtie stainless screws are top notch - no warping and the heads aren't nearly as prone to snapping off) ciao.
@@flyingAMT I don't know but here is what I found at www.gattoplaters.com/yellow-zinc-plating.html Yellow Zinc Plating Yellow Zinc Plating refers to the color of the chromate that is applied after zinc has been deposited on to the surface of the part. Yellow chromate prevents the zinc from corroding and increases the overall protection of the finish. This finish provides a rainbow or iridescent appearance with dominant yellow tones. Benefits of Choosing Yellow Zinc High performing corrosion protection Cost Effective Cosmetic Benefits Considerations Hexavalent Yellow Zinc is a traditional finish that was widely used because it was cost effective and provided excellent corrosion protection. Due to the European Union’s Restriction of Hazardous Substances Directive (RoHS) which banned the use of hexavalent chromium, the usage of yellow zinc has declined and is no longer allowed in products sold by many large original equipment manufacturers (OEM). Trivalent Yellow Zinc is an alternative for companies in need of a RoHS compliant Yellow finish. Although it offers a similar iridescent yellow appearance it can be more costly. A high performing alternative to Yellow Trivalent is High Corrosion Clear Trivalent. This passivate does not produce the same yellow appearance, but it is RoHS compliant and offers high salt spray performance. In some applications, it may be more cost effective than Trivalent Yellow. This finish is a widely used alternative for applications that previously required yellow hexavalent chromate.
@@flat-earther No matter what they use for plating they are indoor used floor screws not shear screws like the GRK's ! Using them outdoor or for framing its like imposing a short expiration date on your projects ! there's a proper screw or nail specifications for every specific applications ! Fortunately here in canada the building code and permits inspectors know a lot to spot carpenter taking shortcut on proper screws and nails for load-bearing wall , lol otherwise you would have all these newbies building house with cheap gyps screws only ! I've seen people trying to save on nails and screws using cheaper gold indoor floor screws to attach their galvanised bracket on their patio deck imagine what the chemical reaction will do to these screws after just a few months plus these brackets a recommended to be attached with galvanised 1 1/4'' shear strength nails only !
Excellent. Screws are the kind of hardware I have discussed most with my son in law. I will be sending this to him. You reviewed and answered my questions, and confirmed my observations. Thanks. Oh and glad to hear some of your bio. I am more than five years your senior. Have worked in the woods and forestry too.
Back in the 80s framing homes for jim walter. I learned fast because we was busy. Then went to trade school to be a macanic. I wasn't a carpenter but ive worked on trucks for 30 years. When came time to help my brother inlaw on his barn. Nobody could drive a nail except me like riding a bike. Love your honestly great video.
Drywall screws are fantastic .... for drywall! Love your videos, as allways. Edit: I like Robertson's screw bits obviously you're correct they were an obvious improvement over Phillips. But they were also a lot less expensive then the Torque screws. I didn't mind paying for torque when I had large screws to drive. But run-of-the-mill decking screws? Not so much. In any event, your analysis of the capabilities and limitations of all of these fasteners is absolutely flawless. Well done as always.
My thought too, I've gone through many many boxes of drywall screws they are perfect for drywall heads above nailing, but not for use for anything else.
I wanted to build a rolling work table. The plans called for screws. I really didn’t know anything about screws and would have been inclined to use nails. The information here was very helpful!
These videos are amazing, and I can't wait to binge watch all of them. Thank you for putting these together. That being said, I got awfully nervous at the end of the video when the guy was handling a lifted load by hand. Please be careful. Attach a rope to the load (not the lifting slings) or use a hooked pole if you need to control the load and prevent swinging, but don't touch it. Being that close to a lifted load puts you way too close to the line of fire if the load is dropped.
As a life long garage carpenter I have to admit your page has finally answered so many of the basic questions guys like me have thought about for years. I just started watching but wanted to thanks you for a great idea and look forward to more of you videos.
I love your videos - a lot of great information and wisdom. I don't know though why you would assiduously avoid Robertson if they are locally available and cheap. I understand if your local store stocks Torx and Roberston are difficult to get and at a premium. Robertson has some good things going for it and basically all self-centering/screw holding fasteners are re-inventions of the Robertson concept - which is what Lox and Torx are. The taper on the Robertson allows screws to stay on the bit better than Torx which is useful - especially for Electricians mucking around in a live breaker box which is why our boxes tend to use them here. I find the strip rate of Robertson and Torx to be pretty similar - it is down to the manufacturer's metallurgy.. The sizing is easy to tell - orange 00, Yellow 0, Green 1, Red 2, Black 3, Brown 4. For me figuring out the size of Torx is not as easy at a glance. They do make proper deck screws with good coatings - the brown ones- and stainless steel if you really need it. Now that Robertson's patents have expired you have to be a lot more careful with the tooling. When Robertson exclusively made the bits they would last years in an electric drill, the offshore stuff now last weeks. I buy the 'Shock' proof bits for impact drivers and they seem to last quite well. The same goes for the fasteners - there is a lot cheap chinesium out there that is either way soft or way brittle but that is true of all fasteners today.
Haven't been around as long as this guy but after 38 years in the trade. I can say he knows what he is talking about and on you tube that is a good find.
I sit here knowing what you're telling me already mind you completely focused on what you're teaching to be able to teach something someday already knows even well enough to teach themselves is an amayzing talent. Something about you reminds me of my grandma and his generation of laborers.
pancakeRgood I was thinking the exact same thing!!! He should definitely make a detailed video could definitely save a lot of people time, money and suffering from accidents that could have been prevented with a little know how on everyone's part.
A few years ago my coworker had his thumb caught in the chain. I didn't think the operator was watching my directions so I jokingly signaled boom up. Well just let me say it wasn't pretty to see what happened next.
So thats what that means in you signage,was wondering,,here in Auz we just use 2 fingers in a V shape to tally in or out,,depending on witch direction fingers up means boom out and fingers down is boom in,,for boom up make a fist with thumb sticking out,,again up is up and down is down, Just thought you might find that interesting,,
The screw driving tool at the end was what my father called a Speed Driver. He built boats and had several speed drivers. He used Monel screws for boat building. The holes were predrilled with either an electric drill or a handcranked driller, then the screws were driven with the speed driver. Interesting that no-one ever thought to use the electric drill to drive the screws! Until someone did......😀👍
I just watched a video on screws and was riveted. (Pun) Well edited and incredibly informative. I’ve done a woodshop class but this really filled in the blanks. In ‘76 I was a teenage girl and nobody was gonna teach me anything about tools and construction. Now I’m doing much of my own home repair (garage shelves, flooring, etc) and grateful to my male peers who are sharing their hard earned knowledge. 👍
Great video! I too have come to the same conclusions you have. Would you mind making a follow up video about load, notching wood to support load (such as in fencing) vs relying on deck screws or carriage bolts to support load vs just attaching planks to posts?
Im 17 years old and just bought my first "mans hammer" a 20 oz estwing but your videos are actually how i learned to drive a nail ... but i took it to the next level after i leared how to really drive a 16 d nail i bought a 5 pound box of 30 d ring shank barn nails and now a 16 d nail is nothing to drive home thanks for the advice and the know how!!
Really interesting vid - thanks for putting it together! In the UK 90% of the time we use Pozidriv - they're excellent and never cam out if you use decent bits. I did a screw rust test vid a while back - the screws I commonly use are very corrosion resistant and never break - about $3 for 200 screws. They're very, very hard but not brittle. Would be intrigued on your thoughts - can send you a selection if you like?
What he's saying is that a screw provides more tensile strength (vertical, or straight pull), versus shear strength (horizontal, or side load) brittle has nothing to do with it. Harder the steel=less shear, softer steel=less tensile. at any cost the screw will provide more vertical or straight pull, than a nail because of its "bite" versus a smooth nail.
New subscriber - love your videos. It would be interesting to hear you talk about how home construction has changed throughout the years. And why there seems to have been a real dip in quality at times, and why older homes seem much better made. Stuff like that. Seems that would be right up your alley.
GeorgeGraves so I have an opinion on this topic. first off it's a two-sided debate. many older homes have a tendency to have inconsistent construction types which give you inconsistent quality for long-term structural capabilities. new homes with code regulations and inspections often are far more consistent high quality work structurally speaking. on the Craftsmanhip side of the debate, old homes were all built by people expecting High craftsmanship. new homes are now often bidded down through bidding wars by contractors which then drives the quality down even though the modern age Carpenters are often qualified to do high-quality work but most people are not willing to pay for it. so even today high-quality work is out there, it's just that most people can't afford or are not willing to pay the price that it takes to get it. I also find that many homeowners today can't tell the difference between really high-quality work and mediocre work which makes it hard for many carpenters to make the extra effort.
Re: Inconsistent quality in older homes. Quite true. I own a house built in the 1890's. Beautiful craftsmanship - interior/exterior millwork; custom-built doors & cabinets; fireplace mantel & surround; stained glass... Structurally though, some areas overbuilt, others underbuilt - eg: beam sizes; footings/foundations; concrete quality. No standard code regulations back then, I assume.
When it comes to building a home which will most likely be the largest investment of your life, there should not be any cutting corners when it comes to quality of build. And lower quality should not be permitted (but is). When you are spending $$$ of thousands to give shelter, comfort and protection from the elements and possible natural disasters every home should be built to pass inspections of the the highest standards... Just my thoughts.
Exactly. The older homes we see today are ONLY the high quality ones. This is a huge sample bias. All the poorly constructed ones have been torn down or completely renovated.
Absolutely agree with you about GRK... the only screw we'll use in our off cabin kits production. Only thing I have against them is that they have so much pull in torque that they will pull right through material. You'll get some overzealous wild man driving the screws half way thru sheathing... essentially destroying the connection. We use a lot of the RSS version wide heads for exactlly that reason. Now they really hold...
@@grizoh The Robertson screw should have been the de facto standard. The genuine Robertson screw has a square centre with a slight taper it can be held on the bit without falling off. Having used these for ????years never known one to strip or fail...If Phillips the salesman had not conned Ford into using his screws and Posidrive had not put too many angles in the screwhead to facilitate cam out then the rest of the world would have the benefit of Robertson screws. In Canada they are the tops.
When I moved to Texas I found that Robertson screws aren't as popular down here as they are in Canada, the Canadians invented Robertson screws so I assume that's why they love them so much. I mainly use torx now, they are a lot better anyways. Btw, spax screws are also a very good brand in my opinion, expensive though.
The reason you didn't see Robertson head screws in the states is they did not want to pay royalties on the patent to produce the screws. Roberson and torx heads have it all over the Philips and slot head. Specially for the part time woodworker who does not have the knowledge and dexterity to get the screws started properly.
There's a good reason why the electrical industry uses Robertson heads. It is undeniably the most reliable when having to hold the screw by the driver and making sure it doesn't jiggle or fall. Nothing compares.
I built a 2 story workshop using almost entirely those long torx screws and i got so many people telling me they wouldnt hold up for a week, but i did tests and each one worked great so i decided to not go with lag bolts on the frame and have it as a real-life experiment. Now when the topic comes up i can point to my building and say "well its still up". lol
@J Hemphill guys we never used those in my construction or woodworking classes and when I went to construction job fairs and built bird houses, we used either small screws or medium screws not insanely massive screws like those no of course not.
I agree. I used to manage a hardware department and GRK screws always got good reviews from my customers. I can't recall ever hearing anything but positive reviews including from myself.
When I built my deck I used screws on the 6x6 because I notched out the 6x6 to sit flush with my 2x12’s. The shear weight was completely on the post. I felt screws were better since the wood took the shear weight. The screws will help with shift weight
When I was young and dumb on the sites I once asked how does the screw go all the way in if only half is threaded? You can imagine the mileage the lads got out of that one
I had 10 or 15 GRKs fail in sheer due to snow or wind load. Once some snapped, the rest bent and failed. They are great but not the save all. I still have my Yankees that I started making a living with in 1975. The original cordless screw drivers.
What size diameter did you use? FYI the number 9 x 3 r4s are equivalent to 3 x .120 framing nails and 10 x 3 r4s are equivalent to 3 x .131s. They are code approved for framing. If you need to replace lag screws use RSS screws. Simpson’s aren’t any different than grk. Spax are similar but the screw design is different to be more productive when driving. Different loads require different diameter screws.
Just now viewed this most informative piece. Thank you for sharing knowledge acquired hands-on and on-site, much more valuable than the academic BS. I am going back to remove and replace some of the screws I recently drove in a couple of DIY projects around my home. I commend you for devoting years to the trades and for giving us your wisdom. Thank You
You are a master !!! i discover today you channel yesterday and i can't stop to surf over your videos !! my english are limited sorry, im not mother language, i just learn english by my self during my hamradio activity since i was a kid, many yrs a go lol.. btw thank's for sharing your knowledge ! Greetings from Italy !!!
As a Canadian it's fairly rare to find structural type screws with a Phillips type head since the Robertsons are so common up here. I'd much rather have Torx though. Today from what I see the most commonly found are made off shore. They seem to change there head forming dies less so it's not uncommon to find shallower head recesses than they should be. Steel quality used seem to be much more inferior and ending up with a rounded out head trying to drive them in hardwood, or the screws snapping even while driving them in soft pine. If there not properly processing the metal and treating for hydrogen embrittlement that might be a possible reason.I'm not China bashing, but I'm 100% certain the older ones that were North American made didn't have these issues. That yellow coating is usually a cadmium plating. Many don't know it, but it's very much not recommended to eat or even smoke after handling them without washing your hands first. Cadmium is a highly toxic metal.
Turning Point so what your are saying is I shouldn't be holding three of these screws in the corner of my mouth while I work above my head in tight spaces... fail.
I'm not a fan of Torx.. to the extent that the variability of the depth on the screw (as you mentioned) is an issue... but... more importantly is the driver... I'll go through a few bits per 1000 box of screws... were as my Robertson #2.. geezzz. I have had bits that last years... I would argue that , at least north of the 49th... Torx is still a novelty versus the reliable stall worth which is Robertson...
It's really important to have the proper robertson head screw and bit, there are a lot of them that are "square drive" but don't engage properly so you end up getting chewed up bits that can't drive a screw.
Robertson is the strong majority up here for structural, Red Robbie all day every day. Torx, not at all common. The hated Phillips are found only on drywall screws and electrical.
Yep, but remember, Nails are still better for "shear" strength (most often). Nails will bend and still hold, Screws break quite easily when shear force is applied. Both have their uses. As a carpenter, I believe that both serve very different purposes, and are both very necessary on any job site!
PeteBillings yeah, ive always used nails for shear nailing. screws for dry wall. what would be better for cedar decking? seems like nails always seem to work them selves out some, so my thought would be screws?
Adam Kreutzer I have repaired many decks over the years. I live in Texas the combination of extreme heat / sometimes excessive moisture and usually several light freeze thaw cycles usually does a number on exterior wood surfaces not much survives unscathed here. When repairing I usually tend to replace whatever the original builders used with pressure treated wood and deck screws with torx tips. One hint if you are simply refastening an existing board due to nail pull out it is a good idea to drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw through the deck board and just starting into the support. This way the screw does not split the deck board and fastens firmly into the support. The screws with the smooth shank above the threads will pull the deck board down nicely. Do not overtighten. Impact drills will do this in a heartbeat.
Actually, mild steel have less ultimate shear strength then carbon steel. So same diameter screw have greater shear strength then same diameter nail (core diameter, not outside diameter of threads). It is just our impression that screws are easy to brake, because it brake in an instant, while nail creep. But you must pump up the force that breaks a nail to break a screw. But... same diameter screw is much more expensive.
I was nailing in some corner bead the other day and I was surprised at how much trouble I had hitting the nail. I used to be good at this, but I have been using screws for almost everything for years, to the point where I can hardly use a hammer anymore. Also, GRK screws are awesome. They are holding up all my cabinets.
Been using them for decades. Robertson invented in the 20 s before the philips. Best screw going. Very little cam out and can stay on your bit without falling off.
It takes awhile to get the hang of a Yankee screwdriver but they were a real time saver before the advent of power drivers. Us old farts remember when boats were built of wood and screwed together with bronze screws. After driving hundreds and hundreds of screws with a "real screwdriver", one might consider learning how to use a Yankee lol.
Your videos are such a joy to watch. Was looking up information on hammer drill reviews and ended up watching your videos. Thank you I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and skill.
Is it just me, or are the woodworking fellas and ladies of YT among the most well spoken Americans this side of the Ivy league lot. Gotta love somebody who can communicate clearly and peacefully.
as an almost 2 decade residential and commercial framer and carpenter I can assure you this man's advice is beyond invaluable to any homeowner or entry level craftsman. Thanks for providing your hard earned knowledge. ps I just bought a Burke bar. done without one for 17 years and instantly understood the applications when I saw it in your hands. Just like the press and your friend, I will think of you every time I use it. Thanks man
I love the learning from this channel. It just so happens I purchased a parachute bag after seeing this video.
I had one a while back and didn't know what to do with it. I put it in the bottom of my tool bucket for a while but that wasn't useful at all. I keep so many fasteners with me I have five snap together organizers, three with screws and two for nails but I think I'll give the parachute bag a try again now that I know what it's good for.
I love this channel, I watch ec for chill out I'm before bed, and obviously learn. Wish he was my neighbor.
@@massey-rn8mq yep, that would be a neighbor to have.
I've been working mostly in the remodeling construction trade for 20+ years. I haven't done much framing and I learned a bunch from one of these videos. I'm mainly a tile guy, flooring guy, drywall guy, ECT. But with the company I'm with now, I have to learn everything. And honestly, I'm freaking excited that I get to learn the stuff that I don't know. LOVE THIS CHANNEL!!!!!
I am teaching the next generation of carpenters here in Pasadena, Texas. I use your videos constantly to teach because I love how concise you are (and entertaining). Thank you for the entire series. I'm driving up your views by a factor of about 50 kids every year. Thanks for all your help and insight.
I’m 25 years old, and I still practice pounding nails into scrap in my garage. Love using the nail guns, and boy do they speed things up, but everybody should still know how to pound a nail by hand, efficiently.
@ stop your dirty way of thinking
I wish I had more
Agreed. I still do math on paper for fun sometimes. Everyone should know how to do math; it’d make this country kick ass again.
Same here. I like using hand tools sometimes even when I have the power option. It feels like you gain back some aspect of it that's lost with power tools or something.
If you ever do siding it's essential because you need to leave a gap for expansion
I could listen to this guy talk about carpentry for days!
Love your channel! Surprised to see you here.
Yeah really good
And look at that shop!
Have you seen Larry Haun?
I could listen to this guy talk about carp and trees for days
Probably the only RUclipsr that can get me excited to watch a video called "Screws...". Keep doing what you do!
I just watched a 9 minute video about screws, and I was enthralled the entire time.
Very informative. After watching this video, I feel like I graduated from Screw U.
Very punny.
bugoobiga LOL!! Congrats grad!
congratulations......... The next class is-(Screw you two)
bugoobiga u
Haaa good one
I'm almost the opposite of you, sort of. I'm a semi-professional musician/songwriter who recently discovered carpentry and home repair. My wife and I bought an 1880 Italianate Victorian home 2 years ago that has become my art project. I also started working for a contractor friend and have learned so much in a relatively short time, that it gave me the confidence to rip apart our bay window roof and reframe it in preparation for my own, hand-cut and shaped copper shingles. I've enjoyed your helpful tips for reference along the way, and appreciate how you present them via your production techniques: They're to-the-point and no nonsense- (some of the things I'm starting to implement in my own music videos.) Anyway, I liked you before, but I have a newly found respect after learning that you were a fellow musician. Keep it up.
I learned more about screws in the last few minutes than I had in my entire life before. Thank you for posting this video. :)
Thomas Jefferson I cannot believe Mr. Jefferson needs to use screws...
Me 2
I didn't know the ghosts of dead presidents liked watching educational construction and carpentry videos
Me too.
I have screwed almost everything. This guy knows how to screw.
Thanks for the walk down memory lane, I still have my yankee screw driver somewhere in the tool cabinets. How things have changed, I had 40 years in the trades and loved every minute of it. Was a GC in residential construction, the last 28 years. Keep the videos coming. God bless.
As an average guy, not in the trades but I build my own home, I haven't built a deck in 25 years. I recently built a small set of outdoor stairs and when I went to buy hardware to attach the ledger board to the house I couldn't even find the 1/2" hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts that were traditionally used. I was pointed to the GRK Structural screws instead. I bought them and checked out the specs and schedule online. Wow! What a difference and so much easier, I didn't even have to go into the basement for anything. The ledger board isn't going anywhere. I also decided to use stringer brackets along with the special screws from the bracket manufacturer...so much faster and easier. I'm pretty good at hammering, getting a lot of practice building wall sections for a builder one summer at age 15 but I've always hated pounding joist hanger nails as it can be difficult in a tight area. Great innovation not only for installation, but also for repair-ability too.
More of these info vids! Im an apprentice, i find these so good for learning more and more! Keep up the great work!
We are all apprentices...never forget that!
I can't forget. Construction is ever re-inventing itself. There will always be something new.
Oskar Bremer Has
@@x-rayzulu5643 What?
I do carpentry myself and the one best takeaway from this video...is that parachute bag!! Thank you for that tip, sir!! I do pole barns for a living and I also do corrugated metal roofing with the galvanized insulator screws, so I end up with these getting mixed in with the 16 pennies I use for kick plates. I also build and tear down concrete forms and end up having to get a separate pocket on my belt for them, since you can't use them in structural work, as you stated. Parachute bag = no problem
Great vid Scott. As a 40-year geologist, handyman, and furniture craftsman myself, I always love watching salt-of-the-earth souls like you who have made their living outdoors and under practical means about how to build and get things done. Just like Norm, Tom Silva, and the TOH tradesman gang! And especially so around the Fall and Winter months when hot cups of coffee from my Stanley thermos begin either my fieldwork or shop days amidst the crisp air and/or snow. Keep on trucking!
Back in 80 I started to make furniture in an old timers one man shop, he was 67 and I was 18 boss only had hand screw drivers, so I hacksawed the handles off and mounted them in a corded 1 speed no reversing plug in drill. He later went out and got me one that reversed.
When I was growing up we moved a lot. So Dad built a number of pkywood boxes for kitchen, linens, etc. But he drove the screws in with a hammer up to a point, then used a Yankee Screwdriver to seat them. Now with him gone I sometimes have to repair those boxes.
Thanks for this video. I'm subscribing to see what else you do that I can learn from.
that screw display is a thing of beauty.
Just finished a 2400 square foot home completely with GRK screws. we were trying to recount the total number. The closest we can come up with is around 46,000 not kidding you. The only nails used was for the corner metal edging on the dry wall. I do think you have some of the best videos going. Keep up the good work. I appreciate your ability to get to the point no sense wasting words or the oxygen in doing so.
I look at him more as a philosopher then a carpenter...99% of stuff he talk about I know I won’t do but I just enjoying listen to it...
Good dear
He does have a verbal eloquence, doesn't he?
Over 20 Years I've been a general contractor... I find this man's video's incredibly informative and I learn something new with each one he produces. I really look forward to each and every video and watch them all... sometimes even binge watching...lol
Lol, yep
Just bought my first set of Torx head screws this weekend repairing a shed behind the house I'm selling. Never used them before and wanted to see if they were worth the fuss. They were. I'm a convert now.
The trick is.. everyone that will work on your shed after you will either hate you because they're not Torx converts and they don't know what it is, or they will love you because they're also Torx converts.
I converted to square (Robertson) from Phillips. Torx is great with two major draw backs. 1.) it doesn’t sit on the bit as well as a square #2 which makes it more difficult to use when working by yourself one handed. 2.) for most general stuff you end up using #8 and #10 screws. For Torx that means having a T-20 and T-25 and switching back and forth. Both those common screw sizes come with Robertson #2 bit sizes making it easier all around for most applications I do.
GRK makes really bad ass screws and for structural applications, a T-25 and GRK or TimberLOK screws are where it’s at. For fences and sheds etc? I’ll use the square #2 bit and be done with it
@@nsatoday I'm with you on the TImberlok and headlok's. Worth every penny. I built a little bridge type thing access my mother's barn. She was using old pallets to cross the 'moat' into the feed room. Every now and then a horse would horse it's way into the feed home and destroy the pallet bridge. There's no way deck screws would have held up to that kind of stress.
I used them in an 18-wheeler.
I love these videos so much. I wish you had your own television show
He does, it's on RUclips a couple times a week!
55 yr old carpenter here. All my life. Even back in infant school the caretaker would bring in wood so I could ‘put it together’. I love my job as much as I can see you do. Recently subscribed to your channel as it’s a pleasure to watch. You explain everything so simply and straight forward. One thing I will say.. you made me realise just how much stuff I do know. The kinda things you take for granted. Common sense stuff. I hope someone takes care of my tools when I depart. 😀👍
Most people do not understand the variety of fasteners required to build a home ... it is all about fasteners. Torx all the way ! Another great video.
I also like GRK, Spax has served well too; avoid "Fastap" they claim self drilling but the design is really self stripping, nails have better pull strength.(experience based on softwoods OSB and plywood)
Drywall screws snap because they are only #5 or #6, cheap, and often thinnest just under the head, not because they are hard. Meanwhile deck screws tend to be #8, 9, or 10 and have a thicker section between head and thread. Likewise nails tend to have higher shear strength because they have a larger effective cross sectional area(based on minor/root diameter of the screw) and bearing surface, the harder steel in screws is as a basic material stronger in both tension and shear.
******
I agree that phillips should be avoided for anything other than drywall dimplers(wear camout is an advantage). Phillips is only popular because of the model-T and it was designed to cam-out in a time when production line power drivers lacked torque control.
Torx are good for high torque but they weeble wobble all over and need two hands to get started straight, they also chose way too many bit sizes and there are two types [old torx and torx-plus newer & improved but less popular]. I prefer Robertson for general use, they have a slight taper that both sticks the screw to the bit and makes a very stable connection that can be started one handed, and 3 sizes covers most common screws, easy to accurately manufacture which is important with all the cost cutting low bit import products. Both Torx and Robertson bits resist rather than encourage cam out and the bit's wear ten times as long as phillips.
I'm a Machinist-Welder, I hate wood (Lumber) and it hates me. I butcher it occasionally only out of pure necessity. Up till about 2 years ago I never paid attention to other screws besides Drywall screws and used them for everything. Then I discovered Deck Screws. Then I discovered SPAX screws. Wood work goes a bit better now.
Spax FTW.
Hello!
I'm a BC Dept of Labour Certified Carpenter, passed my exam the 1st time! This is a great video lesson for good woodworkers of any age.
@@friedrichuckhauff7046 yes, SPAX screws!
Yep, life is better with the correct tools and fasteners.
idk who makes your videos but the production quality is insanely good.
Great video! My father and brother are both in construction and know all these facts. Me on the other hand, I'm the DIY daughter who lives in another state that wish she had the knowledge they've gained over the years of working. I was searching for a video that would help me to identify the crazy amount of random screws I have in my home, your video was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you! I loved your comment about the skill of using a hammer being a lost art these days, I'm proud to say I was gifted my first tiny hammer 40 years ago when I helped my Dad build our home in Alaska. I can say with pride that I have that skill! :-) Thank you again for a great video.
Dude, I just became a subscriber. I started my career when you did. But done different things in between. You are my go to, and hero!!! When I started in 1980, I was framing 500,000.00 homes, now I'm remodeling and building additions on $million plus homes. I am using you for a go to on some things. Thank you. I appreciate you. God bless.
The thing I always liked about the square head (Robertson bit, if I remember right) is that it sticks on the bit magnet-free, because of the taper. Super handy, as the mag's can actually work against you, and the torx don't stick unless you've got magnetism.
I really appreciate your videos. At 30 with 14 years in a assortment of trades. I want to be like you when I grow up. Thank you for sharing!
Andrew Jones,
I don't blame you ! I am 14 years older than him and wish I had grown up like him ! I am afraid he is one of a kind. As his good friend Cy Swan.
One of the most well thought out explanations I’ve seen in recent memory regarding torx screws. Loved this video.
immediately bought a parachute bag after watching it's been extremely useful no more screw spills and always have the screws I need available instead of having to go to the truck to dig for them
Thanks so much for putting this video and others like it together. I walk into the store and I have no idea about the type of screws I need for a given job. This is awesome content and frankly, for someone who didn't have the upbringing that you were blessed with, it is full of quality information to help us along in our journeys.
..YesSirRee, those GRK are wonderful!! Pricey, but worth it. As long as the threads get a bite, they will pull slap thru a board...
Thanks Essential Craftsman. Now I'm properly educated for when I get screwed!
i just have to add this, drywalls screw are pretty much different from ALL other construction screws when it comes to hardness. a drywall screw has zero plastic deformation before breakage. everything else will bend.
I finished high school in 1980, always worked construction trades. I now work as a access control and lock tech, coming from the low voltage electrical field. I too, started in building remodeling, and have worked in many of the trades. I am very thankful for the work you are doing. I hope you keep doing these videos, as they are a chronicle of what has happened in our time, in North America, in the building trades. Thank you for these videos.
Great video! Electralicec is an outdoor nightmare. I constantly see rookie craftsmen building fenses etc. With nails and screws that are for indoor use. And every time the rust runs down the board or side of the house trim... Come on at least use some galvanised products! Puch your nails, counter sink your screws! And caulk them in! Sub out the painting job! Sit back Crack a cold beverage, and pat your self on the back! because you just became a contractor😁
But I digress, I'm a 34 year old contractor working hard to do the jobs right! I watch all the videos I can. I have learned so much, but have much to learn. I started in high school in a carpentry skills trade class. Got a two year degree and started out framing houses. if had seen your video on on skill saw tricks. I would have made rookie of the year. Hats off your an inspiration Sir!!! with great knowledge and pressies intellect on the subjects of building trades. Great work and sir, thank you for taking the time to teach and inspire us to be better craftsmen! From forks W.a. have a great day
Just to add to the screw info, do not mistake Robertson for Square. They are two different driver/screw configurations. The square has 90 deg sides on both the driver tip and the screw where as the Robertson has a tapered shape to both screw and driver. Using a Robertson driver with a square screw will result in a loose fit more prone to slippage and stripping. Using a square driver in a Robertson screw will normally not reach the bottom of the screw and can result in Jamming your bit in the screw. To tell them apart often the sizing on the item will let you know what it is... 1, 2 ,3 = square, 6, 8, 10 Robertson or Green Red Black...
Just bought my first drill and THIS was the video I needed. Thank you! You rock ⚡️🙌
1:53 - What a cool screw display! And thanks for another super-helpful video.
I was Class of '75, so I'm probably one year older than you. Still trying to find a replacement copy of my yearbook.
Oh my gosh, I love your videos! We have a few things in common, graduated from HS in 75, was a timber faller for 25 years, worked in the timber industry for 30 years. During seasonal lay offs and Lay offs due to spotted owls etc I did handy man work and built a 900 sq ft addition on or house in the 80's. No you tube back then, just Sunset how to books, lol! Never attained a level of skill beyond that of a wood butcher! These videos would have been so helpful back then but still, they are such a blessing to me now as I do projects around the house! Thanks for doing what you do!
I started doing full range carpentry in 1965. I remember using a Yankee screwdriver with a straight bit to set screws for hinges and hardware. OMG. I still have the scars.
You are spot on about the types of screw drives: Slotted head screws suck completely; Phillips head screws suck mostly; Robertson square-drive screws are OK; Torx drive screws RULE!
And GRK screws are the bomb!!
Great video. Thanks!
I used some of those yellow screws on a redwood fence. I took the screws out perhaps 6 years later (replaced wood fence with steel fence). They looked pretty darn good. I re-used them.
I find that the yellow screws snap less than the drywall screws.
Also I believe the Lox head (modified square drive) has greater torque capacity than the Torx head.
Square drive works just fine, though not quite as good as Torx (star bit). I can put my #12, 5" long stainless screws into wood pretty reliably with a good impact driver and a #2 square drive recess. Actually, the screws themselves tend to warp because the particular alloy of stainless that they manufactured this batch of screws with is overly soft. There are a great variety of hardnesses in stainless fasteners. The Simpson Strongtie stainless screws are top notch - no warping and the heads aren't nearly as prone to snapping off)
ciao.
So interesting. I love these kinds of videos! No bs, just information and quick!
the yellow is zinc plated with a yellow dichromate acting as a sealer.
isn't zinc is typically silver? Could it be Cadmium? Cad comes in at least two varieties, Cad 1 is silver and Cad 2 is golden/yellow.
@@flyingAMT I don't know but here is what I found at www.gattoplaters.com/yellow-zinc-plating.html
Yellow Zinc Plating
Yellow Zinc Plating refers to the color of the chromate that is applied after zinc has been deposited on to the surface of the part. Yellow chromate prevents the zinc from corroding and increases the overall protection of the finish.
This finish provides a rainbow or iridescent appearance with dominant yellow tones.
Benefits of Choosing Yellow Zinc
High performing corrosion protection
Cost Effective
Cosmetic Benefits
Considerations
Hexavalent Yellow Zinc is a traditional finish that was widely used because it was cost effective and provided excellent corrosion protection. Due to the European Union’s Restriction of Hazardous Substances Directive (RoHS) which banned the use of hexavalent chromium, the usage of yellow zinc has declined and is no longer allowed in products sold by many large original equipment manufacturers (OEM).
Trivalent Yellow Zinc is an alternative for companies in need of a RoHS compliant Yellow finish. Although it offers a similar iridescent yellow appearance it can be more costly.
A high performing alternative to Yellow Trivalent is High Corrosion Clear Trivalent. This passivate does not produce the same yellow appearance, but it is RoHS compliant and offers high salt spray performance. In some applications, it may be more cost effective than Trivalent Yellow. This finish is a widely used alternative for applications that previously required yellow hexavalent chromate.
@@flat-earther No matter what they use for plating they are indoor used floor screws not shear screws like the GRK's ! Using them outdoor or for framing its like imposing a short expiration date on your projects ! there's a proper screw or nail specifications for every specific applications ! Fortunately here in canada the building code and permits inspectors know a lot to spot carpenter taking shortcut on proper screws and nails for load-bearing wall , lol otherwise you would have all these newbies building house with cheap gyps screws only ! I've seen people trying to save on nails and screws using cheaper gold indoor floor screws to attach their galvanised bracket on their patio deck imagine what the chemical reaction will do to these screws after just a few months plus these brackets a recommended to be attached with galvanised 1 1/4'' shear strength nails only !
Is that known as galvinization?
No... the yellow sink plated screws are not as good as galvanised screws. It’s a different process and appears to be much thinner.
Excellent. Screws are the kind of hardware I have discussed most with my son in law. I will be sending this to him.
You reviewed and answered my questions, and confirmed my observations.
Thanks. Oh and glad to hear some of your bio. I am more than five years your senior.
Have worked in the woods and forestry too.
You really like talking to your daughter's husband about screwing?
Back in the 80s framing homes for jim walter. I learned fast because we was busy. Then went to trade school to be a macanic. I wasn't a carpenter but ive worked on trucks for 30 years. When came time to help my brother inlaw on his barn. Nobody could drive a nail except me like riding a bike. Love your honestly great video.
Drywall screws are fantastic .... for drywall! Love your videos, as allways. Edit: I like Robertson's screw bits obviously you're correct they were an obvious improvement over Phillips. But they were also a lot less expensive then the Torque screws. I didn't mind paying for torque when I had large screws to drive. But run-of-the-mill decking screws? Not so much. In any event, your analysis of the capabilities and limitations of all of these fasteners is absolutely flawless. Well done as always.
My thought too, I've gone through many many boxes of drywall screws they are perfect for drywall heads above nailing, but not for use for anything else.
I wanted to build a rolling work table. The plans called for screws. I really didn’t know anything about screws and would have been inclined to use nails. The information here was very helpful!
These videos are amazing, and I can't wait to binge watch all of them. Thank you for putting these together.
That being said, I got awfully nervous at the end of the video when the guy was handling a lifted load by hand. Please be careful. Attach a rope to the load (not the lifting slings) or use a hooked pole if you need to control the load and prevent swinging, but don't touch it. Being that close to a lifted load puts you way too close to the line of fire if the load is dropped.
As a life long garage carpenter I have to admit your page has finally answered so many of the basic questions guys like me have thought about for years. I just started watching but wanted to thanks you for a great idea and look forward to more of you videos.
Got to love working with Mr. Wadsworth! He is a true craftsman and very good at what he does!
I love your videos - a lot of great information and wisdom. I don't know though why you would assiduously avoid Robertson if they are locally available and cheap. I understand if your local store stocks Torx and Roberston are difficult to get and at a premium.
Robertson has some good things going for it and basically all self-centering/screw holding fasteners are re-inventions of the Robertson concept - which is what Lox and Torx are. The taper on the Robertson allows screws to stay on the bit better than Torx which is useful - especially for Electricians mucking around in a live breaker box which is why our boxes tend to use them here.
I find the strip rate of Robertson and Torx to be pretty similar - it is down to the manufacturer's metallurgy..
The sizing is easy to tell - orange 00, Yellow 0, Green 1, Red 2, Black 3, Brown 4. For me figuring out the size of Torx is not as easy at a glance.
They do make proper deck screws with good coatings - the brown ones- and stainless steel if you really need it.
Now that Robertson's patents have expired you have to be a lot more careful with the tooling. When Robertson exclusively made the bits they would last years in an electric drill, the offshore stuff now last weeks. I buy the 'Shock' proof bits for impact drivers and they seem to last quite well. The same goes for the fasteners - there is a lot cheap chinesium out there that is either way soft or way brittle but that is true of all fasteners today.
please please please upload as much as you can, I love your videos!
A very professional presentation from someone with many years in the territory.
Love this guy. So knowledgable. I wish he'd do a video about everything we need to know about women too
@@Good-Citizen that’s gonna be a long video
Haven't been around as long as this guy but after 38 years in the trade. I can say he knows what he is talking about and on you tube that is a good find.
I sit here knowing what you're telling me already mind you completely focused on what you're teaching to be able to teach something someday already knows even well enough to teach themselves is an amayzing talent.
Something about you reminds me of my grandma and his generation of laborers.
Love to see somebody that can signal a crane correctly very few know correct signals even old hands
I was going to comment on that. I think he could make a pretty informative video about signalling.
Jesse Howe that signal is extend boom
pancakeRgood I was thinking the exact same thing!!! He should definitely make a detailed video could definitely save a lot of people time, money and suffering from accidents that could have been prevented with a little know how on everyone's part.
A few years ago my coworker had his thumb caught in the chain. I didn't think the operator was watching my directions so I jokingly signaled boom up. Well just let me say it wasn't pretty to see what happened next.
So thats what that means in you signage,was wondering,,here in Auz we just use 2 fingers in a V shape to tally in or out,,depending on witch direction fingers up means boom out and fingers down is boom in,,for boom up make a fist with thumb sticking out,,again up is up and down is down,
Just thought you might find that interesting,,
Torx is absolutely the way to go! Nice one!!
Hilti makes better concrete screws. More expensive, but for formwork, can be used over and over and don't break as easy.
The screw driving tool at the end was what my father called a Speed Driver.
He built boats and had several speed drivers.
He used Monel screws for boat building.
The holes were predrilled with either an electric drill or a handcranked driller, then the screws were driven with the speed driver.
Interesting that no-one ever thought to use the electric drill to drive the screws!
Until someone did......😀👍
From someone who is a civil engineer, you sir you a wealth of construction knowledge, and it's very impressive.
I just watched a video on screws and was riveted. (Pun) Well edited and incredibly informative. I’ve done a woodshop class but this really filled in the blanks. In ‘76 I was a teenage girl and nobody was gonna teach me anything about tools and construction. Now I’m doing much of my own home repair (garage shelves, flooring, etc) and grateful to my male peers who are sharing their hard earned knowledge. 👍
Can you do a video of what size nail to for different jobs?
I was thinking, "I don't need to know this" but was very surprised how much I enjoyed it. Good education.
Yeah
Great video!
I too have come to the same conclusions you have. Would you mind making a follow up video about load, notching wood to support load (such as in fencing) vs relying on deck screws or carriage bolts to support load vs just attaching planks to posts?
I can attest the tapcon’s are awesome, I work in pest control and they’re are great for screwing hardwire to foundation block
Im 17 years old and just bought my first "mans hammer" a 20 oz estwing but your videos are actually how i learned to drive a nail ... but i took it to the next level after i leared how to really drive a 16 d nail i bought a 5 pound box of 30 d ring shank barn nails and now a 16 d nail is nothing to drive home thanks for the advice and the know how!!
Thank you!
Yes, Ive fallen in love with GRK fasteners:-)
Really interesting vid - thanks for putting it together! In the UK 90% of the time we use Pozidriv - they're excellent and never cam out if you use decent bits. I did a screw rust test vid a while back - the screws I commonly use are very corrosion resistant and never break - about $3 for 200 screws. They're very, very hard but not brittle. Would be intrigued on your thoughts - can send you a selection if you like?
What he's saying is that a screw provides more tensile strength (vertical, or straight pull), versus shear strength (horizontal, or side load) brittle has nothing to do with it. Harder the steel=less shear, softer steel=less tensile. at any cost the screw will provide more vertical or straight pull, than a nail because of its "bite" versus a smooth nail.
New subscriber - love your videos. It would be interesting to hear you talk about how home construction has changed throughout the years. And why there seems to have been a real dip in quality at times, and why older homes seem much better made. Stuff like that. Seems that would be right up your alley.
GeorgeGraves
so I have an opinion on this topic. first off it's a two-sided debate. many older homes have a tendency to have inconsistent construction types which give you inconsistent quality for long-term structural capabilities. new homes with code regulations and inspections often are far more consistent high quality work structurally speaking. on the Craftsmanhip side of the debate, old homes were all built by people expecting High craftsmanship. new homes are now often bidded down through bidding wars by contractors which then drives the quality down even though the modern age Carpenters are often qualified to do high-quality work but most people are not willing to pay for it. so even today high-quality work is out there, it's just that most people can't afford or are not willing to pay the price that it takes to get it. I also find that many homeowners today can't tell the difference between really high-quality work and mediocre work which makes it hard for many carpenters to make the extra effort.
Re: Inconsistent quality in older homes. Quite true. I own a house built in the 1890's. Beautiful craftsmanship - interior/exterior millwork; custom-built doors & cabinets; fireplace mantel & surround; stained glass... Structurally though, some areas overbuilt, others underbuilt - eg: beam sizes; footings/foundations; concrete quality. No standard code regulations back then, I assume.
When it comes to building a home which will most likely be the largest investment of your life, there should not be any cutting corners when it comes to quality of build. And lower quality should not be permitted (but is). When you are spending $$$ of thousands to give shelter, comfort and protection from the elements and possible natural disasters every home should be built to pass inspections of the the highest standards... Just my thoughts.
There might also be some bias regarding quality inconsistency as the only homes from past eras to make it to today HAD to have been built well.
Exactly. The older homes we see today are ONLY the high quality ones. This is a huge sample bias. All the poorly constructed ones have been torn down or completely renovated.
Absolutely agree with you about GRK... the only screw we'll use in our off cabin kits production. Only thing I have against them is that they have so much pull in torque that they will pull right through material. You'll get some overzealous wild man driving the screws half way thru sheathing... essentially destroying the connection. We use a lot of the RSS version wide heads for exactlly that reason. Now they really hold...
This camera action was the best out of your all videos.
It delivered a thrill
Yes it did
oop, your tool is showing at 7:52 lol
Quality youtube comment!
haha
oh myyy
Is that tool Rigid??
Pat F lol yeah the yanks screw everything up, good ole us of a, interesting bombing babies, Christian eh, interesting.
Thank you for calling it what it is: "TORX" ...and not "star drive" like a rube. Robertson gets an honorable mention too.
There actually is a difference between Robertson and square drive screws, Robertson has a taper to it while square doesnt.
@@grizoh The Robertson screw should have been the de facto standard. The genuine Robertson screw has a square centre with a slight taper it can be held on the bit without falling off. Having used these for ????years never known one to strip or fail...If Phillips the salesman had not conned Ford into using his screws and Posidrive had not put too many angles in the screwhead to facilitate cam out then the rest of the world would have the benefit of Robertson screws. In Canada they are the tops.
When I moved to Texas I found that Robertson screws aren't as popular down here as they are in Canada, the Canadians invented Robertson screws so I assume that's why they love them so much. I mainly use torx now, they are a lot better anyways. Btw, spax screws are also a very good brand in my opinion, expensive though.
The reason you didn't see Robertson head screws in the states is they did not want to pay royalties on the patent to produce the screws. Roberson and torx heads have it all over the Philips and slot head. Specially for the part time woodworker who does not have the knowledge and dexterity to get the screws started properly.
There's a good reason why the electrical industry uses Robertson heads. It is undeniably the most reliable when having to hold the screw by the driver and making sure it doesn't jiggle or fall. Nothing compares.
Happy Fathers Day!! If you have daughters they are soooooo lucky!!!!
I built a 2 story workshop using almost entirely those long torx screws and i got so many people telling me they wouldnt hold up for a week, but i did tests and each one worked great so i decided to not go with lag bolts on the frame and have it as a real-life experiment. Now when the topic comes up i can point to my building and say "well its still up". lol
Have you ever thought of a shop tour? came across your channel great stuff thanks
Would you agree it’s the advent of the impact driver that has led to a revolution in fasteners?
Square head are more common than torx
Omg that is the longest/tallest freaking screw I've ever seen in my entire life!! I've never seen that type of screw before!! 🤯🤯
ok then Bubbi, consider yourself "screwed"!
@J Hemphill guys we never used those in my construction or woodworking classes and when I went to construction job fairs and built bird houses, we used either small screws or medium screws not insanely massive screws like those no of course not.
@J Hemphill exactly man.
@J Hemphill true. I’d give my left nut to be able to dovetail like expert carpenters
I agree. I used to manage a hardware department and GRK screws always got good reviews from my customers. I can't recall ever hearing anything but positive reviews including from myself.
When I built my deck I used screws on the 6x6 because I notched out the 6x6 to sit flush with my 2x12’s. The shear weight was completely on the post. I felt screws were better since the wood took the shear weight. The screws will help with shift weight
When I was young and dumb on the sites I once asked how does the screw go all the way in if only half is threaded? You can imagine the mileage the lads got out of that one
Of someone wants to be cheap old scrouge, they could just anneal a whole lot of drywall screws right ha, then paint them, should help a little.
Like being to,d bring me a left handed monkey wrench!
I had 10 or 15 GRKs fail in sheer due to snow or wind load. Once some snapped, the rest bent and failed. They are great but not the save all.
I still have my Yankees that I started making a living with in 1975. The original cordless screw drivers.
Should of used Simpson strong ties. www.strongtie.com
@@kalijasin I'll vouch for the simpson stainless fasteners. (that's all I've used from Simpson, and they're the best of their kind that I've tried)
What size diameter did you use? FYI the number 9 x 3 r4s are equivalent to 3 x .120 framing nails and 10 x 3 r4s are equivalent to 3 x .131s. They are code approved for framing. If you need to replace lag screws use RSS screws. Simpson’s aren’t any different than grk. Spax are similar but the screw design is different to be more productive when driving. Different loads require different diameter screws.
My ex wife taught me all i needed to know about getting screwed.
sounds like you needed a good wood chipper at one point in your life...lol
Yea really! Slaved 10 years in the underground mines all so that she and her new husband can enjoy my house.
We flat heads will never learn. I suspect their is a Hex in there somewhere.
I hope it wasn't one of mine..:) LOL
Rule #1 never get married no matter what
Just now viewed this most informative piece. Thank you for sharing knowledge acquired hands-on and on-site, much more valuable than the academic BS. I am going back to remove and replace some of the screws I recently drove in a couple of DIY projects around my home. I commend you for devoting years to the trades and for giving us your wisdom. Thank You
You are a master !!! i discover today you channel yesterday and i can't stop to surf over your videos !! my english are limited sorry, im not mother language, i just learn english by my self during my hamradio activity since i was a kid, many yrs a go lol.. btw thank's for sharing your knowledge !
Greetings from Italy !!!
As a Canadian it's fairly rare to find structural type screws with a Phillips type head since the Robertsons are so common up here. I'd much rather have Torx though. Today from what I see the most commonly found are made off shore. They seem to change there head forming dies less so it's not uncommon to find shallower head recesses than they should be. Steel quality used seem to be much more inferior and ending up with a rounded out head trying to drive them in hardwood, or the screws snapping even while driving them in soft pine. If there not properly processing the metal and treating for hydrogen embrittlement that might be a possible reason.I'm not China bashing, but I'm 100% certain the older ones that were North American made didn't have these issues. That yellow coating is usually a cadmium plating. Many don't know it, but it's very much not recommended to eat or even smoke after handling them without washing your hands first. Cadmium is a highly toxic metal.
Turning Point
so what your are saying is I shouldn't be holding three of these screws in the corner of my mouth while I work above my head in tight spaces... fail.
I sure wouldn't, Not the cad plated ones at least.
I'm not a fan of Torx.. to the extent that the variability of the depth on the screw (as you mentioned) is an issue... but... more importantly is the driver... I'll go through a few bits per 1000 box of screws... were as my Robertson #2.. geezzz. I have had bits that last years... I would argue that , at least north of the 49th... Torx is still a novelty versus the reliable stall worth which is Robertson...
It's really important to have the proper robertson head screw and bit, there are a lot of them that are "square drive" but don't engage properly so you end up getting chewed up bits that can't drive a screw.
Robertson is the strong majority up here for structural, Red Robbie all day every day. Torx, not at all common. The hated Phillips are found only on drywall screws and electrical.
never knew screws were harder than nails. never really thought about that. thanks!
Yep, but remember, Nails are still better for "shear" strength (most often). Nails will bend and still hold, Screws break quite easily when shear force is applied. Both have their uses. As a carpenter, I believe that both serve very different purposes, and are both very necessary on any job site!
PeteBillings yeah, ive always used nails for shear nailing. screws for dry wall. what would be better for cedar decking? seems like nails always seem to work them selves out some, so my thought would be screws?
So the saying should be "as hard as a coffin screw" then?
Adam Kreutzer I have repaired many decks over the years. I live in Texas the combination of extreme heat / sometimes excessive moisture and usually several light freeze thaw cycles usually does a number on exterior wood surfaces not much survives unscathed here. When repairing I usually tend to replace whatever the original builders used with pressure treated wood and deck screws with torx tips. One hint if you are simply refastening an existing board due to nail pull out it is a good idea to drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw through the deck board and just starting into the support. This way the screw does not split the deck board and fastens firmly into the support. The screws with the smooth shank above the threads will pull the deck board down nicely. Do not overtighten. Impact drills will do this in a heartbeat.
Actually, mild steel have less ultimate shear strength then carbon steel. So same diameter screw have greater shear strength then same diameter nail (core diameter, not outside diameter of threads).
It is just our impression that screws are easy to brake, because it brake in an instant, while nail creep. But you must pump up the force that breaks a nail to break a screw.
But... same diameter screw is much more expensive.
can you do a video more about the hand signalling you did at the end of the video
He did one. Search.
Am just starting, I have to build a deck (double wide) learning how to use circular saw, drills, etc. I thank you for your videos. Truly.
I was nailing in some corner bead the other day and I was surprised at how much trouble I had hitting the nail. I used to be good at this, but I have been using screws for almost everything for years, to the point where I can hardly use a hammer anymore.
Also, GRK screws are awesome. They are holding up all my cabinets.
Duluth trading has the parachute bags
That's honestly mind-blowing that screws weren't much of a thing just 50 years ago.
No impact drivers.
Been using them for decades. Robertson invented in the 20 s before the philips. Best screw going. Very little cam out and can stay on your bit without falling off.
"Yankee screwdriver". I've always wondered what the name for that thing was, ever since I saw John Belushi use one in Blues Brothers.
I've tried those things - and I hate them. With a passion. I'd rather get a blister on my palm from using a real screwdriver!
It takes awhile to get the hang of a Yankee screwdriver but they were a real time saver before the advent of power drivers.
Us old farts remember when boats were built of wood and screwed together with bronze screws. After driving hundreds and hundreds of screws with a "real screwdriver", one might consider learning how to use a Yankee lol.
This is truly a craftsman go-to page for in-depth technical info. Thank you.
Your videos are such a joy to watch. Was looking up information on hammer drill reviews and ended up watching your videos. Thank you I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and skill.