I have been working in the construction field for about 3 years now and I just wanted to say thank you, my boss has noticed a moderate improvement with my work and understand thanks to watching your videos. You are very well spoken and very easy to understand. You would have made an excellent teacher. I am going to try to watch all of your videos. Out of all the videos I watch on RUclips to expand my construction knowledge, your videos are by far the best I have found for me. So again, thank you 😀
Your watching the right videos young man. I've been at this as a journeyman for 18 years and I can tell you that this man is an expert. You are on the right track.
When using a square, you can place your pencil on the apex of your mark. Then bring the square up to the pencil. By doing this, you account for the actual thickness of the pencil lead. That way your line isnt off because of the thickness of the pencil/lead against the square.
Yep, this is especially true late in the day when the square itself causes a shadow to fall right where you want to mark the line making it hard to see where to start your line.
Good point, but even as mainly a plumber for most of my life, I've marked and cut so much lumber I account for the lead thickness (even with carpenter pencils or sharpies) without thinking about it. Don't even use a square. I just use my torpedo level as it's always on me. Of course it's usually backing and rough work is fine in that application.
For marking accuracy, my old boss had a neat, fast system for us. When you make your line, a simple small 'X' on the line in the middle, means 'cut the line', and a simple '>' on the side meant cut up to the line, and also denoted what side to cut on. So you would mark >| like that, and cut up to the line, cutting away the > mark. A great simple tip, I still use to this day for small wood projects. Hope that helps anyone.
Use to use the crows foot as the indicator, the side that is at a bigger angle from the 90 is the cut side. So many different ways to do the same thing!
Best thing about carpenters pencil, it stays where it’s put. You don’t have to climb back down the ladder to retrieve it after it’s rolled off the roof.
Will Milburn wranglerstar used to be more of a homestead type channel. EC is more of a tradesman. both different but i think both great. my 2 fav channels actually
Why keep dissing another channel? Those who watch W/S must like something. Backtalking others usually reflects badly on the talker and won't help anyone. Address your complaints to the one that can fix the problem.
I was taught, especially when working with a crew, make a straight line mark at your length, throw your tail, or apex mark in the direction of the off fall. You still have the apex for accuracy, and know which side of the line it to be cut. This is also helpful working alone, marking a number of pieces, then cutting after all pieces are marked up. There is no mistaking which side is the off fall. We also made it a practice at the start of the day to calibrate tape measures. It's easy enough for the tab on a tape to get bent, pulling tapes side by side to check for accuracy can make a lot of difference. One person up pulling measurements, and calling down to a sawyer, a 1/16- 1/8" difference in calibration, makes for a good fit or a sloppy one.
I stopped using carpenter pencils years ago. I like using those big, fat pencils they give kids in kindergarten. They're about two or two and a half bigger in circumstance than a standard number two pencil and easier to sharpen than a carpenter pencil. I keep a cheap, plastic, kid's sharpener in my nail bag. By the way, I've been building and Remodeling fir about thirty years and I have to say that your videos are spot on. Most carpentry videos on the interwebs are nonsense. You are very eliquently telling people how the trade really is. Nice job, sir.
Wicked Coolname funny thought i been rough framing 20+ and just only last week shopping with my daughter for school i seen those big frickin pencils and thought they would be kinda cool to try and sure nuff i went back and sold em out ..if they only made them just a lil shorter they wouldnt be so prone to snaging on every frickin thing..LOL..good lookin out!!
Use your belt sander and put some flat edges on the outside, and it won't roll as badly. You can also buy compressed graphite sticks (usually used for art), which have the advantage of being able to be shaped into exactly what you need and they are square so they don't roll at all. Better, you can sharpen them to one edge and virtually eliminate the gap against your straight edge.
@@_SimpleSam You can get the triangle kind in fat -- "MY FIRST TRI-WRITE" Ticonderoga pencils -- so it won't roll and you can show off your fatherhood pride by keeping the loud yellow elementary school color. (Also saving your fingers from the belt sander, maybe? Hehe) Available both with and without an eraser.
That's due to those elastic tape measures. I've experienced the same problem many times, it can't possibly be anything I do wrong, I've been able to count since the age of 5???? 🤔
If you live near a local community college or trade school, I seriously urge and encourage you to apply as an instructor. You're an amazing wealth of information and experience, and the students would love you. Thank you for sharing with us.
You realize that teachers pay sucks, and they usually have to be college graduates. Construction workers are paid right and usually can make a few dollars even when times are bad.
Further to scribing a line with a utility knife for accuracy, always place your knife on the mark first and bring the square up against it. That way you know you're right on when you scribe the full line. This also works great if you're cutting a tenon or something that needs a scribe on multiple faces of the board. Place knife at end of existing line right on the corner of the wood, butt up the square against it, scribe the new side.
I'm 48 years old and have worked in or around construction industry my entire life. Your videos should be required material for every school shop class. Fundamentals like this are keys to success.
Actually in over 30 years on the job, I've never heard the dull pencil trick. I used a wet piece of paper to dab out a speck in the eye. Learned early on as an apprentice by a journeyman that asked me to perform the procedure.
I received a piece of rusted metal right into the eye. From prying old nails from a wall. It literally stuck to my eye ball. My college came over and removed it with ease using his pencil. Great trick
This is the first time in any media format that I've seen someone use the phrase 'Sine Qua Non' without stopping to explain to the Audience what it means. I Doff my Proverbial Hat to you, Sir! You and Yours run one fine Channel, we need more like you.
I’ve just discovered you and I’ve been going back and watching all your basics videos like this and I’m learning a tremendous amount of stuff. Thank you.
As an amateur, hobbyest wood worker I really appreciate a video like this. It's like being in class with an amazing teacher, who's in my backyard giving advice while you work. There's a least one piece in my house which would have benefited from this video.
Thank you a million times over for not only sharing knowledge, but wisdom too. I am about to build my wife my first big project, an enclosed garden. I feel much more confident now cutting all the material that will be required.
instead of going the v when i mark my mark i usally put a tick where the mark is and than a line to where to bad peice is so i know that side is the bad one and the one with no marks on there is the good one
When I make my crows foot, I make the first mark more or less perpendicular to the tape, then the second mark, on the waste side, at a 20˚~ 30˚ angle. Makes it easy to tell which side of the apex to place the kerf.
Thanks for the videos! They take a subject most people don't think about and dive down to the nuance while still remaining useful. I love remembering a video's tip when I'm in the shop doing something.
Scott, I have made every possible marking and cutting error you described - and more. Fortunately, I’m not a professional and only do my own projects as a retirement hobby. And my tolerance level for my own incompetence is pretty high. Years ago, when traveling up in Nova Scotia, I spent an afternoon with a folk artist who made the most interesting and quirky things, including furniture, out of wood and found materials. “I never measure anything,” he told me. “I just eye it up and if it looks good, knock it together.” His work was one-of-a-kind and every piece was unique. I took a lot of inspiration from that conversation and these days often begin building something with only a general idea, improvising as I go. (Of course, my projects aren’t too complex) I realize this approach would probably horrify a lot of guys who follow this channel, and, of course, it would never work in the professional world. But it sure is fun, and stuff usually turns out ok. Since I’m the only one who has to live with the results, it’s interesting to learn from the process as opposed to getting stressed about the outcome. Thanks for the videos, I’ve learned a lot!
Keep it up big guy. This is my 2nd year in construction and my first 6 months of Contracting my own jobs on the side. You've taught me more in 3 videos than I've learned with 10 or more contractors over the last couple years. You do a great job at teaching and explaining.
Good video. Back in the day, when calling down measurements, we would add light, exact or heavy. Light meant cut before the line, exact would mean cut on the line, and heavy would mean leave the line.
I was amazed after I got involved with the world of Machining - where measurements are often down to a 1000th of an inch how much less trouble I had when doing simple carpentry where a 16th of an inch is usually as precise as is done.
We communicate about where to run the saw vs. your line with an X next to the mark. An X to the left means run the saw to the left, right means to the right, and centered (usually in the V of your Sheep's Foot) means run it center. We almost never cut across the center of a mark, just never seems to work that way. Truly enjoy your videos - keep it up.
Nice video! I thought you would point out the scribe included on most combination squares, since you had one in your hand. Sure it's not AS accurate as a razor, but it's usually a fine enough mark for most finish work and it's already in your hand.
Excellent professional videos Sir, Great work and thank you for showing how tradesmen CAN BE and ARE professionals just like doctors, accountants, etc. This professionalism has led me to be an energy auditor for a local government agency. Never give up in presenting yourself with candor and honor. The Lord will honor you and take you to so many places!!! Blessings!!
A Carpenters ✏️‼️....yes is flat so it doesn't roll,.and the eyeball trick was just GOD LEVEL❕...but I did not hear....About the pencil being exactly 1/4" thick and used to get perfect separation of boards while making a deck...It Is also exactly A 1/2" wide and exactly 6" long ( new and unsharpened)....simply having one around for measurements is perfect unto itself.....I certainly do This was a great vid 🎩s off ‼️
I've watched many of your videos and this is probably my favorite. I am a young journeyman electrician and I started using the 2-line method to make marks for laying out holes in walls, panels, and even sometimes cutting conduit. This should be the standard method for measuring and marking used by all tradesman. I'm always looking for better tools and methods to perform my job. I've learned more than a few things watching your videos. Thank you and keep up the great work.
Tell you what I have REALLY been loving the markers from Milwaukee. Same as a sharpie almost but has a very fine point like a pen. GREAT for metal work, esp metal studs!
Thank you for all of your great insights. I am in the midst of a career change from printing to a handyman. I live north of you in Washington state. And I am about the same age as you. My father passed away and left me all of his tools that we built 2 houses with and 4 sailboats. He was a old school German "jack if all trades.you inspired me to carry on and follow my heart. Thank you!! Thank you!!
I use a carpenter pencil and a cheap .9 mm mechanical pencil. I got tired of dealing with the constant sharpening and short pencils, and the mechanical pencil is great for trim work.
I hope anyone who teaches building of anything watches this video.You sir,have 'nailed it'.Thank you for your thorough coverage of this critical subject.
This is fine advice, but I think it should be articulated in a bit more detail for the beginners among us. The tip, or toe, of a measuring tape is riveted onto the tape. Those rivets have a little bit of slop in them, allowing the toe to move back and forth very slightly. This seems like a mistake, but it's actually a vital and carefully calculated thing! If the toe was solidly fixed to the tape, without this slop, then you'd get different readings depending on whether you had hooked your toe onto an edge, versus pushed your toe against a surface. The difference would be the thickness of the toe itself! The slop is meant to be the exact same distance as the toe is thick, to compensate for it. If the tape is poorly constructed, or if it has seen a lot of use, those rivets can become more sloppy than the manufacturer intended, and your accuracy will start to suffer. For most framing it won't matter a great deal, but every now and then it will matter a LOT, and you'd best know about it. Of course in finish work it's always important. You can check this by sliding the toe back and forth and estimating whether the slop is the same distance as the toe thickness, but that's not quite as accurate as measuring a known distance both by hooking the toe and also by pressing it into a surface, and then comparing the two measurements.
My dad and I were building a garage. We were doing rafters he was the cut man and kept screwing up the measurements we were telling him. We thought it was his old man eyesight until someone was standing next to him and saw that a rivet on the toe was loose and catching. Then he told us he was fired from a framing crew just after high school because of the exact same thing.
I'm 65 years old now and you resurrected a memory from my very early youth. When I was about 6 or 7 years old, my grandfather was teaching me a few things about carpentry. A "V" mark somewhat resembles the wings of a flying bird... and I remember grandad telling me that I should always make my marks to resemble a "birdie"! O'course he said it in Ukrainian so it had a lyrical quality to the expression. Thanks for the stroll down memory lane! Michael (in Winnipeg, MB Canada)
one of the best markers for fine lines you used in the final shot, the chisel. the single bevel rides right up to the square and makes a very fine line if you drag the cutting edge down the line. if you need a bolder line use the corner of the edge. it digs deeper and wider. great content, really enjoy your videos.
How about this ,... I knew a guy who's wife told me a funny story about him talking in his sleep, ...he's in construction doing loft conversion, and new builds...he would say the days measurements that he'd done ....like a human down load,... So one time at a barbeque I said you should film him one night, she did ..he reeled off every measurement that he'd done that day...and he always says them between 2-4 a.m ,,. If only he could do it when he was awake !!
My father would quietly let apprentices know how he felt about them making multiple passes with a pencil, by remarking with a deadpan demeanour....... "Don't bother cutting that son, just do that on the other side and then snap it off"
Im a nurse refurbishing a house. Even though a mainly watch your videos to learn capentry, I also apply your philosophy on efficiency and acceptable tolerance in my day job. Thank :)
You forgot to say the most important part about marking and cutting. 1. Think 3 times. 2. Measure twice. 3. Cut once. Three simple steps too help make all your marks and cuts right.
I have asked so many carpenters why they mark boards like they do, no one has explained it like you have. Thank you so much for explaining such a basic thing. I know understand why they do it like they do. Cheers mate....
You, Sir, are awesome. just discovered your channel and i am a fan, not only for the obvious craftmanship, straightforward, uncut, clear and simple, applicable, realistic (these already separates you from most youtubers ) but also the spirit and overall philosophy you enbody. very inspiring. thank you for sharing and teaching us the most valuable things we should know. From Europe thanks again
I watched this video months ago. Picked up maybe 10% of the wisdom this gentleman shared. Came back tonight to pick up some more tips n tricks after a challenging project. No doubt will be back again to learn more.
A craftsman will mark it once. An Apprentice will mark it twice and a fool will just keep on marking it. An old Millwright told me that 40 years ago. I am not going to say how many times I had just marked a piece of steel.
Really good and experienced carpenters taught me back in 1981 to use the "arrow" mark like the video shows. That way you know/remember which side of that mark is correct, plus it's faster. Don't have to be perfect with the line, just the starting point/apex.
wow i am no where near a carpenter but love watching your videos. So profesional and just love the choice of words. Everything is explained thoroughly.
allu50 I'm using the pica deep hole marker here in Norway, only problem with them is the soft lead, it won't hold a sharp tip for mutch more than one marking. That's the biggest drawback by far 🙃
A coworker of mine here in Canada swears by them; he carries a little case of different leads and crayon - like rods, for marking any number of surfaces. His main complaint with it, tho, was that some of the leads wouldn't stay tight enough in the handle when sharpening, they'd twist and recede. But still worth it, he says.
I am enjoying your videos. My father-in-law is 92 and a carpenter and boat builder for 70+ years. His father was an amazing craftsman and rode logs down rivers back in the day and a white medicine man during his youth in Minnesota. Keep up the great videos. Another good reason to use a carpenters (flat) pencil is if dropped won’t roll off a roof.
One can achieve accuracy using a sharpie or even a paint brush. The trick is to use the proper part of the apex. The outer apex of the crow's foot (that is to say the outer point) is the least accurate part of the etch. The inside point formed by the intersection is the most accurate and the most readily correctible part of the etch. Thus, the best technique to making a crow's foot is to start the first diagonal mark from 1/8th to 1/4 inch away (say to the left) on the first diagonal etch. On this first line, somewhere along that etch, there lies the exact point - the exact distance- you are looking to isolate. The second mark of the crow's foot should therefore be made such that the interior angle formed have at its apex this exact point. If you are off, you can "climb" either diagonal with the third (or fourth, or fifth!) diagonal etch, using a pencil, a sharpie, a paint brush or a mop.
Sr. 15 years ago I meet a profesional just like u are and he is the one teach me all that stuff just the way u do stuff and i be live thats the right way thanks for ur videos brings back memories
If you want to learn, here is knowledge. I've only come across one other master of his craft to share in a way we learn fast. Keep watching. This mans knowledge keeps going.. And going...
Love your videos. Don't think I have ever hit the subscribe button so fast. Look forward to your window video. However if I could make a request, you said you used to do some concrete work, how would you ensure a flat surface on wide pours where a screed board couldn't get all the way across
Some channels have knowledge, some have experience and a few have wisdom. Essential Craftsman consistently contains all three and is always presented in an engaging manner, with plenty of character.
Having a clear and consistent markup style on a site is so very key to a smoothly running workflow. Also never forget how important the difference between layout marking and cut markings are, and making sure everyone actually knows them... Once was on a site where someone took the time to pre-measure and mark out all the sill and header plates for stud locations and length cuts, and then sent 'the new guy' off to trim everything. There was a very awkward silence for a bit when the new guy asked what we needed so much 16" blocking pieces for on the project.
I started rebuilding, re-framing my garage and making fancy 45 degree looking frames around the garage door openings. The wisdom you shared in previous vids gave me confidence in this and the fine line with a razor blade is pure genius! So simple but I never thought of it! Thanks for your vids!
Phenomenal video. I would like to add a few things I feel you may have glossed over though. Just my thoughts on it of course, not the end all be all. When making cuts I always put on X on the cutoff side. It makes it easy to remember which side of the line I need to cut on if I get called away and have to come back. When you pick up a cutoff for blocking or backing or whatever, you know which side is NOT the factory edge. I also use the X to mark which side of the line the stud will sit when doing layout. Just cover the X with the stud and it will be on center. Don't forget that cripples, jacks or kings can always use a mark. Be it circles like some framers use or C J K written above the X. Also thank you for including razor knives as a marking tool. Really great for chisel work. Anyway, thank you for all the time and effort you put into your videos. They are amazing.
Home Depot carpenter pencils are awful, lead is always breaking at the completion of sharpening, weird wood carves poorly, frustrating time wasters. I go to the schools supply aisles in stores and look for kids mechanical pencils: cheap, multiple leads, and fatter gauge for break resistance. Little Mermaids were the best! I know! Cleaned out every RiteAid, Target, etc of those.
www.swansontoolco.com/product/little-blue-book/ You can get one of these with the purchase of a 12" Swanson speed square.It does a good job explaining the math run and rise.Framers bible.
ill have to break myself of the tiny mark habit. I feel like I'm being more exact but for most of the things I'm building but I'm just wasting time. I draw and write like that too...tiny and precise. its obscesive. lol as always thank for the old salt insight.
EC is awesome! I’ve learned a lot from this channel, and I recommend it for apprentices and journeyman alike. There is always something to learn, and EC is a great teacher!
Good topic but it seems you left out a few necessary markers. Sharpies don't last out in the weather (case in point: I marked my box trusses out on the wall plates then got rained/wintered out for five months. They were pretty much completely faded.) for these a paint marker is the trick. When marking wet lumber, now I realize you are in that sunny Oregon climate and this is small potatoes but here where it rains 160" a year we often can only use an 'ink pencil'. Yes the mark will dilute but it often is the only thing that works for the short term. A Sharpie (and the Milwaukee brand seems to be no better or worse than a regular although much higher priced) will not mark wet wood or oily metal. Also when using a knife or scribe one needs to take very light passes so the grain doesn't deflect the cut, then repeat with more pressure. Same with an adjustable edge marker. Just some additional thoughts. Take care. Doug
This guy's knowledge is priceless, it's really good of him to share it. I am an Electrician and I find Sharpies are great for marking metal, but sometimes are a little too thick, a scribe is best, and a screw will do an excellent job of marking a line on metal surfaces ...in much the same way as he uses the utility knife on the timber. *Also I have heard that one of the best ways to help get something out of someone's eye is by using your tongue! As disgusting as this sounds I think it makes a lot of sense, the tongue can actually give you sensory feedback as you probe at the surface of the eyeball, and it's really soft and well lubricated :D I haven't seen this done mind, and if someone was to do it they should clean the eye with eyewash immediately. I've also heard humans carry more germs in their mouths than a domesticated dog!
I solved that issue by writing or calling numbers using only 1/8ths. For example 1/4" is written as 2/ expressing 2/8ths, 1/2" is written as 4/ expressing 4/8ths, 3/4 is written as 6/ expressing 6/8ths. for any 16th" it is the nearest 1/8th big. 7/16 is 3/8big written as 3/b, 9/16 is 4/8big written as 4/b ect. ect. Once you teach guys the system the number of boards cut wrong goes way down, the number of measurements that most guys can remember at once goes up, and production increases. All of this makes more money faster
Dark Knight Monk this is how everyone at my company calls out numbers and it is very efficent. Very few errors. Example: "76 and 5 strong" or "2 foot 4 and 4". Written down it would look like : 76 5/+ or 2' 4 4/" works great!
The man who taught me how frame houses a long long time ago, also taught me to call out measurements breaking everything down in 16ths. Example: 15 and 1= 15 1/16 15 and 6= 15 3/8 and so on. Eliminating the 7/16 and 7/8 confusion. The problem is calling out like this and then teaching someone who doesn't use this system.
i agree, call outs should be in 16th's, not 8ths. "92 and 7" = 92 7/16th. less confusion, more accuracy. i'm bothered if i make a cut, or get a board, that's 1/16th off. that's tolerance for framing, but damn. just because it's acceptable doesn't make it good.
Thank you! Finally someone explains what I now know is a crow's foot mark and how to make and interpret it! I've seen hundreds of videos on the web using it and never got an explanation until now. Again, thank you!
I have been working in the construction field for about 3 years now and I just wanted to say thank you, my boss has noticed a moderate improvement with my work and understand thanks to watching your videos. You are very well spoken and very easy to understand. You would have made an excellent teacher. I am going to try to watch all of your videos. Out of all the videos I watch on RUclips to expand my construction knowledge, your videos are by far the best I have found for me. So again, thank you 😀
Your watching the right videos young man. I've been at this as a journeyman for 18 years and I can tell you that this man is an expert. You are on the right track.
Michael Blanton not if he’s watching vox
Agreed. He has helped me out a great deal with the "green behind the ears stuff" when I was getting started
100% Agree
My advice: Measure 4 times cut once 😄
When using a square, you can place your pencil on the apex of your mark. Then bring the square up to the pencil. By doing this, you account for the actual thickness of the pencil lead. That way your line isnt off because of the thickness of the pencil/lead against the square.
Yep, this is especially true late in the day when the square itself causes a shadow to fall right where you want to mark the line making it hard to see where to start your line.
Scottiver I
Great tip. Thanks for sharing.
Good point, but even as mainly a plumber for most of my life, I've marked and cut so much lumber I account for the lead thickness (even with carpenter pencils or sharpies) without thinking about it. Don't even use a square. I just use my torpedo level as it's always on me. Of course it's usually backing and rough work is fine in that application.
TheBladeSickness works great with scribing layouts too
For marking accuracy, my old boss had a neat, fast system for us.
When you make your line, a simple small 'X' on the line in the middle, means 'cut the line', and a simple '>' on the side meant cut up to the line, and also denoted what side to cut on. So you would mark >| like that, and cut up to the line, cutting away the > mark.
A great simple tip, I still use to this day for small wood projects.
Hope that helps anyone.
I know a guy who uses sort of a check mark. I don't know his system specifically but the short leg if the check indicates keep it take.
This is excellent. Acquired for use!!
Thanks for the tip. Amazing how such simple ideas can be so effective!
Use to use the crows foot as the indicator, the side that is at a bigger angle from the 90 is the cut side. So many different ways to do the same thing!
Nice! 👍
I just love the vocabulary that is used on this channel.
tMattLZ kerf
and he doesn't trim the video every 5 seconds
Robert Howell nothing wrong with a "shit" here and there, or an F bomb
Agreed. Scott is a plain speaking person who is also eloquent. Wonderful combination. I certainly admire that.
@JimmY it's a lazy, crude and dumb way of communicating.
Best thing about carpenters pencil, it stays where it’s put.
You don’t have to climb back down the ladder to retrieve it after it’s rolled
off the roof.
pete T. That's what I was waiting to hear!
pete T. Unless it just falls
I will betcha the ones made in China will slide off the roof.
thats the idea plus the else
LOljustno
Essential craftsman is a heck of a lot better than wrangler star when it comes to practical information, and a lot more entertaining too!
Will Milburn wranglerstar used to be more of a homestead type channel. EC is more of a tradesman. both different but i think both great. my 2 fav channels actually
Adam Kreutzer wranglerstar turn into a click bait channel. reviewing crap from amazon c'mon. I unsubbed a while back.
Why keep dissing another channel? Those who watch W/S must like something. Backtalking others usually reflects badly on the talker and won't help anyone. Address your complaints to the one that can fix the problem.
I don't understand the need to slander Wranglerstar. If you don't care for his videos, don't watch them.
david ervin amen
the importance of two craftsmen working together understanding each other makes all the difference in the world.
I've been doing this for 30 years it's about time someone like yourself give the new guys in the trade the little tricks they need. 😊
THIS, is the essence of craftsmanship. Explaining the fundamentals makes me a believer of true craftsmanship.
"It's all about the fundamentals" -H Hill
I was taught, especially when working with a crew, make a straight line mark at your length, throw your tail, or apex mark in the direction of the off fall. You still have the apex for accuracy, and know which side of the line it to be cut. This is also helpful working alone, marking a number of pieces, then cutting after all pieces are marked up. There is no mistaking which side is the off fall. We also made it a practice at the start of the day to calibrate tape measures. It's easy enough for the tab on a tape to get bent, pulling tapes side by side to check for accuracy can make a lot of difference. One person up pulling measurements, and calling down to a sawyer, a 1/16- 1/8" difference in calibration, makes for a good fit or a sloppy one.
Some tape measures are off an inch on 25 feet, varies by brand. So important to check them side by side, like you said.
I wouldn't let anyone I know near my eye with a carpenter's pencil. But I'd let you, and I don't know you. That's how confident you sound.
I stopped using carpenter pencils years ago. I like using those big, fat pencils they give kids in kindergarten. They're about two or two and a half bigger in circumstance than a standard number two pencil and easier to sharpen than a carpenter pencil. I keep a cheap, plastic, kid's sharpener in my nail bag.
By the way, I've been building and Remodeling fir about thirty years and I have to say that your videos are spot on. Most carpentry videos on the interwebs are nonsense. You are very eliquently telling people how the trade really is.
Nice job, sir.
Wicked Coolname funny thought i been rough framing 20+ and just only last week shopping with my daughter for school i seen those big frickin pencils and thought they would be kinda cool to try and sure nuff i went back and sold em out ..if they only made them just a lil shorter they wouldnt be so prone to snaging on every frickin thing..LOL..good lookin out!!
Use your belt sander and put some flat edges on the outside, and it won't roll as badly.
You can also buy compressed graphite sticks (usually used for art), which have the advantage of being able to be shaped into exactly what you need and they are square so they don't roll at all.
Better, you can sharpen them to one edge and virtually eliminate the gap against your straight edge.
@@_SimpleSam You can get the triangle kind in fat -- "MY FIRST TRI-WRITE" Ticonderoga pencils -- so it won't roll and you can show off your fatherhood pride by keeping the loud yellow elementary school color. (Also saving your fingers from the belt sander, maybe? Hehe) Available both with and without an eraser.
Dad used to always say "I've cut this board three times and it's still too short"
Your dad sounds like an awesome dad
That’s faulty towers I think
That's due to those elastic tape measures.
I've experienced the same problem many times, it can't possibly be anything I do wrong, I've been able to count since the age of 5???? 🤔
Lol
I've picked this one up from my father in law. Here's another one for you:
"Ah, you do good work! Just not enough of it."
Never subscribed so fast. I enjoy people who teach a craft they're passionate about, knowledgeable of, and experienced through and through. Thank you
If you live near a local community college or trade school, I seriously urge and encourage you to apply as an instructor. You're an amazing wealth of information and experience, and the students would love you.
Thank you for sharing with us.
You realize that teachers pay sucks, and they usually have to be college graduates. Construction workers are paid right and usually can make a few dollars even when times are bad.
I'm a joiner/ finishing carpenter/ kitchen installer. This is all very true advice.
Further to scribing a line with a utility knife for accuracy, always place your knife on the mark first and bring the square up against it. That way you know you're right on when you scribe the full line. This also works great if you're cutting a tenon or something that needs a scribe on multiple faces of the board. Place knife at end of existing line right on the corner of the wood, butt up the square against it, scribe the new side.
Stout Lager 👍
AvE and This man are both humanities treasures. Thank you for the hard earned knowledge.
Thank you for making these videos. Thank you.
I feel the same way man dang he is such an amazing person you can tell he has not one hate for anyone
Thank you for writing this comment. Thank you.
Instablaster.
I'm 48 years old and have worked in or around construction industry my entire life. Your videos should be required material for every school shop class. Fundamentals like this are keys to success.
Boss: "Why is there a dull carpenter's pencil in the First Aid kit?"
Worker: "I don't think you wanna know the answer to that question boss."
Colton Blumhagen hahahahahahaha
Actually in over 30 years on the job, I've never heard the dull pencil trick. I used a wet piece of paper to dab out a speck in the eye. Learned early on as an apprentice by a journeyman that asked me to perform the procedure.
if youre a nurse, the answer is, oh great some asshole has my thermometer. hopefully, if youre a framer, its different
I received a piece of rusted metal right into the eye. From prying old nails from a wall. It literally stuck to my eye ball. My college came over and removed it with ease using his pencil. Great trick
I learned the carpenter's pencil trick from this video and used it once on myself. Everyone on my crew laughed at me but I was sure glad I knew it!
This is the first time in any media format that I've seen someone use the phrase 'Sine Qua Non' without stopping to explain to the Audience what it means. I Doff my Proverbial Hat to you, Sir! You and Yours run one fine Channel, we need more like you.
I’ve just discovered you and I’ve been going back and watching all your basics videos like this and I’m learning a tremendous amount of stuff. Thank you.
As an amateur, hobbyest wood worker I really appreciate a video like this. It's like being in class with an amazing teacher, who's in my backyard giving advice while you work. There's a least one piece in my house which would have benefited from this video.
Carpenter pencil is 1/4" x 1/2". Good for spacing boards like decking or fencing
Thank you for making these video's.I appreciate the fact you discuss things that some of us were not taught, and may be embarrassed to ask.
Who dislikes this guy lol like who gets a notification for a new video and then is like this is crap. It's all golden material.
Douglas Kok Not true. I have no desire, nor ability to do the craftsmanship shown on this channel, but it's one of my top three to watch.
The only video I don't like of his is the one on his boots. He makes a whole video on non safety toed boots. Which are essentially worthless.
John Patrick where there is good there is always evil 😈
I think the RUclips algorithm automatically places dislikes!
Thank you a million times over for not only sharing knowledge, but wisdom too. I am about to build my wife my first big project, an enclosed garden. I feel much more confident now cutting all the material that will be required.
After making the mark I'll put an X on the side where I want to take out the kerf. Helps if i get distracted between measuring and cutting.
...Let alone having someone else make the cuts. It's remarkable how much help I need remembering what I did a few seconds ago : )
If someone else is making the cut, I put an arrow on the side of the line to cut. X on off-cut if the two pieces are close to the same measurement.
instead of going the v when i mark my mark i usally put a tick where the mark is and than a line to where to bad peice is so i know that side is the bad one and the one with no marks on there is the good one
When I make my crows foot, I make the first mark more or less perpendicular to the tape, then the second mark, on the waste side, at a 20˚~ 30˚ angle. Makes it easy to tell which side of the apex to place the kerf.
i love all the little gotcha's and angles he covers.
Thanks for the videos! They take a subject most people don't think about and dive down to the nuance while still remaining useful. I love remembering a video's tip when I'm in the shop doing something.
Scott, I have made every possible marking and cutting error you described - and more. Fortunately, I’m not a professional and only do my own projects as a retirement hobby. And my tolerance level for my own incompetence is pretty high. Years ago, when traveling up in Nova Scotia, I spent an afternoon with a folk artist who made the most interesting and quirky things, including furniture, out of wood and found materials. “I never measure anything,” he told me. “I just eye it up and if it looks good, knock it together.” His work was one-of-a-kind and every piece was unique. I took a lot of inspiration from that conversation and these days often begin building something with only a general idea, improvising as I go. (Of course, my projects aren’t too complex) I realize this approach would probably horrify a lot of guys who follow this channel, and, of course, it would never work in the professional world. But it sure is fun, and stuff usually turns out ok. Since I’m the only one who has to live with the results, it’s interesting to learn from the process as opposed to getting stressed about the outcome. Thanks for the videos, I’ve learned a lot!
i'm 19, and watching these videos has taught me just as much in a few months of subscription as my grandpa taught me on certain projects.
Keep it up big guy. This is my 2nd year in construction and my first 6 months of Contracting my own jobs on the side. You've taught me more in 3 videos than I've learned with 10 or more contractors over the last couple years. You do a great job at teaching and explaining.
Good video. Back in the day, when calling down measurements, we would add light, exact or heavy. Light meant cut before the line, exact would mean cut on the line, and heavy would mean leave the line.
Robert Dye or an RCH
That's the way I learned
How about give me the actual #?
Larry Arnemann that’s too simple
👍👍 That was standard for us to.
This guy is the perfect dad/grandpa. Such a clear and concise way of teaching these skills.
I was amazed after I got involved with the world of Machining - where measurements are often down to a 1000th of an inch how much less trouble I had when doing simple carpentry where a 16th of an inch is usually as precise as is done.
We communicate about where to run the saw vs. your line with an X next to the mark. An X to the left means run the saw to the left, right means to the right, and centered (usually in the V of your Sheep's Foot) means run it center. We almost never cut across the center of a mark, just never seems to work that way.
Truly enjoy your videos - keep it up.
Nice video! I thought you would point out the scribe included on most combination squares, since you had one in your hand. Sure it's not AS accurate as a razor, but it's usually a fine enough mark for most finish work and it's already in your hand.
Love this channel. This is the shop teacher I wish every kid could have these days.
Excellent professional videos Sir, Great work and thank you for showing how tradesmen CAN BE and ARE professionals just like doctors, accountants, etc.
This professionalism has led me to be an energy auditor for a local government agency. Never give up in presenting yourself with candor and honor. The Lord will honor you and take you to so many places!!! Blessings!!
Man I wish I had a mentor like you when I started in woodwork. Thank you for keeping carpentry alive and making this videos.
A Carpenters ✏️‼️....yes is flat so it doesn't roll,.and the eyeball trick was just GOD LEVEL❕...but I did not hear....About the pencil being exactly 1/4" thick and used to get perfect separation of boards while making a deck...It Is also exactly A 1/2" wide and exactly 6" long ( new and unsharpened)....simply having one around for measurements is perfect unto itself.....I certainly do
This was a great vid
🎩s off ‼️
I've watched many of your videos and this is probably my favorite. I am a young journeyman electrician and I started using the 2-line method to make marks for laying out holes in walls, panels, and even sometimes cutting conduit. This should be the standard method for measuring and marking used by all tradesman. I'm always looking for better tools and methods to perform my job. I've learned more than a few things watching your videos. Thank you and keep up the great work.
Tell you what I have REALLY been loving the markers from Milwaukee. Same as a sharpie almost but has a very fine point like a pen. GREAT for metal work, esp metal studs!
Thank you for all of your great insights.
I am in the midst of a career change from printing to a handyman.
I live north of you in Washington state.
And I am about the same age as you.
My father passed away and left me all of his tools that we built 2 houses with and 4 sailboats. He was a old school German "jack if all trades.you inspired me to carry on and follow my heart.
Thank you!! Thank you!!
I use a carpenter pencil and a cheap .9 mm mechanical pencil.
I got tired of dealing with the constant sharpening and short pencils, and the mechanical pencil is great for trim work.
.9mm lead is sturdy too
I hope anyone who teaches building of anything watches this video.You sir,have 'nailed it'.Thank you for your thorough coverage of this critical subject.
I would only add that checking the "toe" of the tape measure regularly is paramount. Such an easy thing to miss and it can make a big difference !
Happened to me a couple of times. Of course I found out when I was doing window trim.
This is fine advice, but I think it should be articulated in a bit more detail for the beginners among us.
The tip, or toe, of a measuring tape is riveted onto the tape. Those rivets have a little bit of slop in them, allowing the toe to move back and forth very slightly. This seems like a mistake, but it's actually a vital and carefully calculated thing! If the toe was solidly fixed to the tape, without this slop, then you'd get different readings depending on whether you had hooked your toe onto an edge, versus pushed your toe against a surface. The difference would be the thickness of the toe itself! The slop is meant to be the exact same distance as the toe is thick, to compensate for it.
If the tape is poorly constructed, or if it has seen a lot of use, those rivets can become more sloppy than the manufacturer intended, and your accuracy will start to suffer. For most framing it won't matter a great deal, but every now and then it will matter a LOT, and you'd best know about it. Of course in finish work it's always important.
You can check this by sliding the toe back and forth and estimating whether the slop is the same distance as the toe thickness, but that's not quite as accurate as measuring a known distance both by hooking the toe and also by pressing it into a surface, and then comparing the two measurements.
My dad and I were building a garage. We were doing rafters he was the cut man and kept screwing up the measurements we were telling him. We thought it was his old man eyesight until someone was standing next to him and saw that a rivet on the toe was loose and catching.
Then he told us he was fired from a framing crew just after high school because of the exact same thing.
That made me chuckle
I'm 65 years old now and you resurrected a memory from my very early youth. When I was about 6 or 7 years old, my grandfather was teaching me a few things about carpentry. A "V" mark somewhat resembles the wings of a flying bird... and I remember grandad telling me that I should always make my marks to resemble a "birdie"! O'course he said it in Ukrainian so it had a lyrical quality to the expression. Thanks for the stroll down memory lane!
Michael (in Winnipeg, MB Canada)
measure it with a mic, mark it with chalk, cut it with a torch.
measure with a laser, mark it with paint, cut it with a dozer.
one of the best markers for fine lines you used in the final shot, the chisel. the single bevel rides right up to the square and makes a very fine line if you drag the cutting edge down the line. if you need a bolder line use the corner of the edge. it digs deeper and wider. great content, really enjoy your videos.
How about this ,... I knew a guy who's wife told me a funny story about him talking in his sleep, ...he's in construction doing loft conversion, and new builds...he would say the days measurements that he'd done ....like a human down load,... So one time at a barbeque I said you should film him one night, she did ..he reeled off every measurement that he'd done that day...and he always says them between 2-4 a.m ,,. If only he could do it when he was awake !!
My wife said who's 35 and three eights? I do it too.
Finally! Excellent joinery advice that isn't about showing off or expensive tools. Thank you.
My father would quietly let apprentices know how he felt about them making multiple passes with a pencil, by remarking with a deadpan demeanour....... "Don't bother cutting that son, just do that on the other side and then snap it off"
As a very modest DIY-er, your videos have been invaluable to me. I can’t thank you enough!
"Remove the carpenter's pencil from your own eye first...."?
Typically excellent.
Im a nurse refurbishing a house. Even though a mainly watch your videos to learn capentry, I also apply your philosophy on efficiency and acceptable tolerance in my day job. Thank :)
You forgot to say the most important part about marking and cutting.
1. Think 3 times.
2. Measure twice.
3. Cut once.
Three simple steps too help make all your marks and cuts right.
Or the other method: measure once, cut twice, and rasp/plane/file to fit
I have asked so many carpenters why they mark boards like they do, no one has explained it like you have.
Thank you so much for explaining such a basic thing. I know understand why they do it like they do.
Cheers mate....
9'11" was an inside measurement.
why bring politics into this? why?
Chainsaw fuel can't melt steel studs!
I laughed, why not :)
This was a good one lol
randgate a_
You, Sir, are awesome. just discovered your channel and i am a fan, not only for the obvious craftmanship, straightforward, uncut, clear and simple, applicable, realistic (these already separates you from most youtubers ) but also the spirit and overall philosophy you enbody. very inspiring. thank you for sharing and teaching us the most valuable things we should know. From Europe thanks again
Another great and useful video thanks 😀
I watched this video months ago. Picked up maybe 10% of the wisdom this gentleman shared.
Came back tonight to pick up some more tips n tricks after a challenging project.
No doubt will be back again to learn more.
A craftsman will mark it once. An Apprentice will mark it twice and a fool will just keep on marking it. An old Millwright told me that 40 years ago. I am not going to say how many times I had just marked a piece of steel.
Really good and experienced carpenters taught me back in 1981 to use the "arrow" mark like the video shows. That way you know/remember which side of that mark is correct, plus it's faster. Don't have to be perfect with the line, just the starting point/apex.
Granite plate and dial height indicator
Not sure how you mark something twice ??
wow i am no where near a carpenter but love watching your videos. So profesional and just love the choice of words. Everything is explained thoroughly.
can you please make a video on bidding and estimating jobs. I always feel like I'm either to high or to low. thank you 👍
Thanks for share your knowledge for the new generations.
Good bless you.
have you tried the pica dry pencils? here in Finland that's pretty much the only graphite marking tool i see on professionals (including me)
More and more in Norway. It's my go to pencil.
Neat, never heard of them before. THANKS for the heads up. I''ll try them.
allu50 I'm using the pica deep hole marker here in Norway, only problem with them is the soft lead, it won't hold a sharp tip for mutch more than one marking. That's the biggest drawback by far 🙃
Staedtler Mars technico 780 leadholder pencils are also a good alternative if people can't find them.
A coworker of mine here in Canada swears by them; he carries a little case of different leads and crayon - like rods, for marking any number of surfaces. His main complaint with it, tho, was that some of the leads wouldn't stay tight enough in the handle when sharpening, they'd twist and recede. But still worth it, he says.
I am enjoying your videos. My father-in-law is 92 and a carpenter and boat builder for 70+ years. His father was an amazing craftsman and rode logs down rivers back in the day and a white medicine man during his youth in Minnesota. Keep up the great videos.
Another good reason to use a carpenters (flat) pencil is if dropped won’t roll off a roof.
One can achieve accuracy using a sharpie or even a paint brush. The trick is to use the proper part of the apex. The outer apex of the crow's foot (that is to say the outer point) is the least accurate part of the etch. The inside point formed by the intersection is the most accurate and the most readily correctible part of the etch. Thus, the best technique to making a crow's foot is to start the first diagonal mark from 1/8th to 1/4 inch away (say to the left) on the first diagonal etch. On this first line, somewhere along that etch, there lies the exact point - the exact distance- you are looking to isolate. The second mark of the crow's foot should therefore be made such that the interior angle formed have at its apex this exact point. If you are off, you can "climb" either diagonal with the third (or fourth, or fifth!) diagonal etch, using a pencil, a sharpie, a paint brush or a mop.
i would apprentice under this guy in a heartbeat
I'd love to hear his knowledge on bench vises.
Sr. 15 years ago I meet a profesional just like u are and he is the one teach me all that stuff just the way u do stuff and i be live thats the right way thanks for ur videos brings back memories
"If you're person who made the line you will know what side of it to cut on"...............aah if only that were the case 🤪
No kidding right? He needs to follow me for a day if he wants a good chuckle. Lol!
Sad but true....
If you want to learn, here is knowledge. I've only come across one other master of his craft to share in a way we learn fast. Keep watching. This mans knowledge keeps going.. And going...
Love your videos. Don't think I have ever hit the subscribe button so fast. Look forward to your window video. However if I could make a request, you said you used to do some concrete work, how would you ensure a flat surface on wide pours where a screed board couldn't get all the way across
Some channels have knowledge, some have experience and a few have wisdom. Essential Craftsman consistently contains all three and is always presented in an engaging manner, with plenty of character.
I use my belt sander to sharpen my pencils. Nothing beats it.
BLOWN AWAY by your skill set and what you bring to the table! Thank you.
Can you be my grandpa?
Having a clear and consistent markup style on a site is so very key to a smoothly running workflow.
Also never forget how important the difference between layout marking and cut markings are, and making sure everyone actually knows them...
Once was on a site where someone took the time to pre-measure and mark out all the sill and header plates for stud locations and length cuts, and then sent 'the new guy' off to trim everything.
There was a very awkward silence for a bit when the new guy asked what we needed so much 16" blocking pieces for on the project.
Your garage is nice & big; how about a garage tour video?
I started rebuilding, re-framing my garage and making fancy 45 degree looking frames around the garage door openings. The wisdom you shared in previous vids gave me confidence in this and the fine line with a razor blade is pure genius! So simple but I never thought of it! Thanks for your vids!
Measure twice, cut once. Unless you own a board stretcher, Ha.
learn to measure, get it right the first time.
Kerry must own a board stretcher. Always check your work.
I usually measure twice, cut once, swear, and then check my watch to see if home depot is still open.
+Perry Woodman "I cut this board three times, and it's STILL too short".
What am I supposed to do if I DO own a board stretcher?
I started writing a book and this was the first chapter. Anyone starting in construction needs to watch this video!
"I measured and cut this board *three* times and it's STILL too short." Yep!
Phenomenal video. I would like to add a few things I feel you may have glossed over though. Just my thoughts on it of course, not the end all be all.
When making cuts I always put on X on the cutoff side. It makes it easy to remember which side of the line I need to cut on if I get called away and have to come back.
When you pick up a cutoff for blocking or backing or whatever, you know which side is NOT the factory edge.
I also use the X to mark which side of the line the stud will sit when doing layout. Just cover the X with the stud and it will be on center.
Don't forget that cripples, jacks or kings can always use a mark. Be it circles like some framers use or C J K written above the X.
Also thank you for including razor knives as a marking tool. Really great for chisel work.
Anyway, thank you for all the time and effort you put into your videos. They are amazing.
Home Depot carpenter pencils are awful, lead is always breaking at the completion of sharpening, weird wood carves poorly, frustrating time wasters. I go to the schools supply aisles in stores and look for kids mechanical pencils: cheap, multiple leads, and fatter gauge for break resistance. Little Mermaids were the best! I know! Cleaned out every RiteAid, Target, etc of those.
😂😂
You gotta ask for the free ones at the pro desk. The ones they sell are for shit
I'm in the process of watching & liking everyone of your videos... Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Mr. E.C how's about a detailed video on making a staircase with understanding of the math on involved...please ?👍🏼👑🔨📐
www.swansontoolco.com/product/little-blue-book/
You can get one of these with the purchase of a 12" Swanson speed square.It does a good job explaining the math run and rise.Framers bible.
Those last two sentences are critical. Great point.
Wow, this might be one of your best videos. The accuracy of cutting a line was a brain opener. Thanks for sharing your experience.
ill have to break myself of the tiny mark habit. I feel like I'm being more exact but for most of the things I'm building but I'm just wasting time. I draw and write like that too...tiny and precise. its obscesive. lol
as always thank for the old salt insight.
EC is awesome! I’ve learned a lot from this channel, and I recommend it for apprentices and journeyman alike. There is always something to learn, and EC is a great teacher!
Not quite the same but an old engine builder told me one time, "The shortest pencil, is longer than the longest memory."
I actually don't understand lol
12.6.20. Or another way.......the dullest pencil mark is sharper than the sharpest memory™️
All of your training videos are simply great. I've learned so much from watching and listening.
Good topic but it seems you left out a few necessary markers. Sharpies don't last out in the weather (case in point: I marked my box trusses out on the wall plates then got rained/wintered out for five months. They were pretty much completely faded.) for these a paint marker is the trick. When marking wet lumber, now I realize you are in that sunny Oregon climate and this is small potatoes but here where it rains 160" a year we often can only use an 'ink pencil'. Yes the mark will dilute but it often is the only thing that works for the short term. A Sharpie (and the Milwaukee brand seems to be no better or worse than a regular although much higher priced) will not mark wet wood or oily metal. Also when using a knife or scribe one needs to take very light passes so the grain doesn't deflect the cut, then repeat with more pressure. Same with an adjustable edge marker. Just some additional thoughts. Take care. Doug
Douglas Thompson write in the rain my friend. Look it up
This guy's knowledge is priceless, it's really good of him to share it.
I am an Electrician and I find Sharpies are great for marking metal, but sometimes are a little too thick, a scribe is best, and a screw will do an excellent job of marking a line on metal surfaces ...in much the same way as he uses the utility knife on the timber.
*Also I have heard that one of the best ways to help get something out of someone's eye is by using your tongue! As disgusting as this sounds I think it makes a lot of sense, the tongue can actually give you sensory feedback as you probe at the surface of the eyeball, and it's really soft and well lubricated :D I haven't seen this done mind, and if someone was to do it they should clean the eye with eyewash immediately. I've also heard humans carry more germs in their mouths than a domesticated dog!
if you're measuring and you have a guy cutting for you make sure he repeats the number back to you. I have had a lot of 7/8" turn into 7/16
I solved that issue by writing or calling numbers using only 1/8ths. For example 1/4" is written as 2/ expressing 2/8ths, 1/2" is written as 4/ expressing 4/8ths, 3/4 is written as 6/ expressing 6/8ths. for any 16th" it is the nearest 1/8th big. 7/16 is 3/8big written as 3/b, 9/16 is 4/8big written as 4/b ect. ect. Once you teach guys the system the number of boards cut wrong goes way down, the number of measurements that most guys can remember at once goes up, and production increases. All of this makes more money faster
Dark Knight Monk this is how everyone at my company calls out numbers and it is very efficent. Very few errors. Example: "76 and 5 strong" or "2 foot 4 and 4". Written down it would look like : 76 5/+ or 2' 4 4/" works great!
The man who taught me how frame houses a long long time ago, also taught me to call out measurements breaking everything down in 16ths. Example: 15 and 1= 15 1/16 15 and 6= 15 3/8 and so on. Eliminating the 7/16 and 7/8 confusion. The problem is calling out like this and then teaching someone who doesn't use this system.
Try a kid doing that to you over and over again when your stick framing on a scissorlift lol
i agree, call outs should be in 16th's, not 8ths. "92 and 7" = 92 7/16th. less confusion, more accuracy. i'm bothered if i make a cut, or get a board, that's 1/16th off. that's tolerance for framing, but damn. just because it's acceptable doesn't make it good.
Thank you! Finally someone explains what I now know is a crow's foot mark and how to make and interpret it!
I've seen hundreds of videos on the web using it and never got an explanation until now.
Again, thank you!