The entryway to my favorite lumberyard is decked with ipe. It's about 12 years old, they don't do anything to protect it, it takes daily commercial traffic and still looks great.
Very nice, Matt! I designed a deck, recently, for a client in Central Florida. on one of the many rivers - dock, as well. The client used ipe wood for the deck. Very good wood and great for withstanding the local environment but the cost was nearly astronomical. It was the client's choice, though. Even so, it always comes down to budget for a deck and a dock. As always, great information, Matt, thanks! :)
First tip, have a bucket of cash to afford IPE! :) I would love to use it on my deck, but the artificial decking looks quite nice these days and is zero maintenance. I think the IPE was about 20% more expensive than the artificial surfacing. What gets expensive on the IPE is the added milling costs to cut groves down the lengths of them for hidden fasteners.
Awesome--looking forward to a new Epi deck next spring! would luv to be able to acquire these sized boards and hardware reco'd by builder here. [in Toronto Canada?]
Just built an ipe deck at our house, take your time estimate and double it. It's heavy, slow to cut and even slower to install with all the predrilling. But it looks amazing when it's done.
I'm lost on the 1/2 inch beam drop. The lumber dimensions are the same. If the plywood is glued and screwed to the beam, it's going to drop in relation to any shrinkage. I could see if it the transition was floated somehow to hide the crown or camber of the beam, but to me, this is essentially making a redundant plywood shim.
wood moves in all 3 dimensions. the one you are thinking of is the tangential, in that instance the up and down aka width of the board aka face. which u are correct the height of the deck will change the most dramatically as it loses the pressure infused wet chemical treatment ,PT lumber for deck framing, as well as the typical movement wood has as humidity changes. what they were pointing out was the change to the radial, aka thickness aka edge. for instance that triple they showed if it was particularity wet, could have measured 4.75" actual when installed and will acclimate to 4.5" actual in a couple months and then only experience nominal changes down the road . this is a real pain in the northern winter when you get fresh wet lumber that is frozen solid, heavy and thick as sin. the last type of movement is longitudinal. aka length. this last type is really small in woods your going to find on lumber shelves, maybe 0.2% for a softwood like used on the frame. that particular application was applicable because of the use those hidden fasteners having a fixed spacing. if it were being screwed from the top down, the carpenter would / should increase the spacing of the boards effected accordingly while making that transition. the above face and edge flip places when using quarter-sawn lumber. another critic tip when using ipe or mahogany and face screwing it, is to oversize the drill hole diameter so it has some 'slop'. stainless steel v. ipe that has moved is very ugly and ipe will win every single time. if you ever have to remove a board that doesn't have that slop, screws are likely to shear off or just strip if you are lucky. i'm partial to ship goo ( equal parts pine tar, boiled linseed, and turpentine) for end grain since it penetrates, rather than construction adhesive which becomes an added layer and gets squeezed out to some degree, is always tan colored and a pain to clean up. but hey thats just me.
Thing is that deck guy probably didn’t hear about joist tape to prevent that girder from swelling, plus hangers usually get installed incorrectly and joists drop down.
I was going to say the same thing. The plywood would have no effect on the y plane of the beam shrinking or expanding. I guess it’s effect would be felt on the x plane, where the expansion of the beam would fight against the plywood. That would put stress on the stainless fasteners in the plywood, but would keep the x-plane consistent. I wish Matt would go into the specifics about some of these interesting/unique details. Based on their conversation, I can’t tell if the valleys and hills that come from expansion and contraction are from changes in the x-plane or the y-plane. Seems to me the issue is with the y-plane, not the x-plane. Anyone willing to explain this in x-y terms?
This makes no sense to me. The lumber is same and likely the same moisture content so why would they both move/shrink the same as they dry out? Matt should have immediately asked WHY the girder would shrink more than the joists.
I think he saying that because the girder is sandwiched, the center later will dry out slower leaving a hump at its location- the plywood just helps span the inconsistency created from differential drying
All the 100+ year old decks in my area (Navasota, TX) are tongue in groove but I think spacing the deck boards will be better for longevity, any thoughts?
A bit surprised not to see any ice and water shield on top of the joists to be honest. Seems like the framing will fail well before the decking, as it's shown.
I did a two story deck and staircase with ipe that was over 1000 sqft using a very similar system. Came out amazing and basically sold the house for my client.
I agree with the "joist" tape comments, Matt seems to have forgotten his previous videos. I disagree with the board layout. With the waterfall coming off the side of the house, a line of potential rot will develop across all the boards. Much easier to lay the boards parallel to the house wall and pull one, maybe two boards. Plus, the whole ordeal of affixing two trim pieces with screws to hid/help the end grain of the boards is eliminated. All you have to do is pace your boards to the deck edge with the final board overhanging the desired 3/4 inch without the slot.
Cool tip with the edging. Wondering what sort of adhesive that is? Strong to prevent separating, or flexible to fill the gap when it expands? (I personally try avoid anything being connected on the face of my decks because I hate the inevitable gaps that appear no matter how studious you are... But I've never glued those joints either
The guy knows his hardware. 316 and 304 are good for coastal applications. For marine use, they are also highly resistant to stress corrosion cracking. Interesting quick history lesson on zinc finishes... "hot dip zinc coated" is the term to use today to most clearly identify the superior zinc finish in which a metal (usually an iron alloy) is coated by dipping it in a bath of molten zinc leaving a transition layer of intermetallic zinc/iron sandwiched between the base metal and a thick, long-lasting layer of zinc on the outside. The finish which is made up of a thin layer of zinc deposited on the surface via an electrolytic bath is called "electroplated zinc". Not too too long ago you used to be able to just use the term "galvanized" to refer to the former but I'm modern times the electroplaters decided to start trying to confuse customers in order to earn more business, so they started using the term "electo-galvanized". The result is that even today some retailers don't know the difference and often mislabel the products they are selling. If it's an application where corrosion is a concern, you want a heavy hot dip zinc coating. It's a shame we need all those words to remove ambiguity.
I've had problems with cheap 304, not even in heavy weather situations, nowhere near the coast. Not had an issue with hot dip yet. But I'll be using 316 for hardware from now on
@@JSBax yeah 316 is superior to 304 (316 may not always be an option for some fasteners) but sometimes these alloys can suffer from surface corrosion due to impurities introduces during processing. The tooling used to form them is made from high carbon steel and bits of it can deposit themselves on the surface during forming. There are processes that are supposed to be used to passivate (also somewhat of a loaded term) the final product - various acidic washes at specific temperature and durations - but some manufacturers may not do them or do them poorly. It's important to remember though that unlike corrosion on carbon steel fastener, the corrosion is superficial. The fastener is still going to last, it just may not look as nice as you'd expect.
@@iowawrench I believe the “mechanically” applied zinc refers to sprayed on coatings but please correct me if I’m wrong. I don’t have much knowledge or experience with these coatings but my intuition is that they’re probably similar performance to electroplated - maybe a little better or a little worse. No doubt it’s not going to come close to hot dip zinc coated because there’s no mechanism whereby the base metal would form an intermetallic zinc/iron layer like what happens with hot dip. Also I’m not aware of any standard which governs these processes unlike electroplating and hot dipping, so your results may vary between suppliers or even between lots. The thickness of the coating is also a consideration. Hot dip zinc coated fasteners, specifically internally threaded fasteners, require “overtapped” threads in order to accommodate assembly with these thicker coatings and to provide the required strength. 18-8 stainless refers to a group of stainless steels grades which vary greatly in their chemical composition - some better than others - so there can be a large amount of variation. It’s better than electroplated zinc but because it varies so much I think hot dip zinc coated fasteners would give you a more reliable/consistent corrosion resistance an of course much greater strength. In general stainless is weaker than carbon steel so stainless may not always be an option without stepping up to A286 which is very expensive.
@@DennisKapatos Don't forget the tools used during installation. If you are switching from high carbon interior hardware applications and then using these same bits/blades etc. to install stainless steel you could unintentionally be depositing or embedding material that is what is actually corroding. I'm nowhere near a coast but I've never had any issues with 304, shouldn't be an issue if its a quality supplier/manufacturer.
Curious about sealing the treated joists with a self-adhesive tape or something? If they're getting wet and at ground level in the shade some of it will be mush in 10 years. At least you can reuse the decking 😂
I have never worked with Ipe decking or Ipe Clips, but I can imagine that one could saw straight down between the board gap to cut through the clip allowing removal of the damaged board. It might be difficult to cut through the SS washer, but one might use a cutoff wheel. You could also cut down a little into the damaged board (parallel with the grain) through the plastic portion of the Ipe clip to avoid the SS. You wouldn't have to worry about damaging the board you're replacing by ripping or gouging it, because you're scrapping it. You would have to face-screw and plug the new board. Not too difficult...
ive always wondered why we dont use hydrophobic coating (like is often found sprayed on electrical boards inside, say, phones) in the process of outdoor wood, flashings, etc? surely not on the surfaces you walk on, as that would get slippery, but the sides and underside of each board, cut ends, etc.
I could see scrape marks on that long board the guy was using for the demo, yet he claims it won't mark if you drag barbecues or teak chairs across it?
They sell ipe and epay, hybrids and replacements, some are not environmentally friendly. Some is FSC certified some isn't. There is a black market for ipe.
Here in eastern Canada 5/4 would mean 1 1/4 inches. It seems to change depending on region. I use quarters to describe rough lumber and nominal to describe finished. I would just call this 1" nominal.
You're correct, and it works the same way here in the states (though, with the exception of 3/4," no one discusses quarter measures except wood workers and mills). 5/4 should represent the TRUE dimensions of the rough lumber product you're getting. If it's processed/milled to different dimensions, the new dimensions should be presented (nominal). TL;DR: no one should be calling this a "5/4" product if what you get isn't ACTUALLY 5/4" thick.
@@DeadlyPlatypus but it's like 2 x 4 or 1 x 4, this is a 5/4 x 4 or also available as 5/4 x 6 meaning it's 1" x 3.5" or 1" x 5.5" after surface planing. Wouldn't it be confusing if they starting calling it a 1x4 where it was actually 1" x 3.5"? Seems very rare except in large timber sizes that anything is actually rough lumber anymore, most decking and lumber (in the US) is listed by its rough sawn (nominal) size but what you purchase is the milled dimension that keeps things consistent around the country and from supplier to supplier. Seems to make sense in keeping with everything else that they call the thicker deck boards 5/4. That way when you see the 1x4 or 1x6 deck board you know the thickness is the .75".
Problem with any of these tropical hardwoods is they are almost never sustainably harvested. Typical estimate is two acres of forest is destroyed for every salable tree. The sustainable forest certification is a complete joke - and everyone in the business knows it. I like Ipe, Cumaru and the rest, but it's damn-near criminal what is done to harvest these trees.
@@JamesG1126 I grew up in the area where most Ipe is from, they flower beautifully in the dry season and you can identify every tree from far away - they grow maybe 2 trees to an acre and in fairly difficult to access regions. You are un-informed on this, ADZB is correct. Go visit the Amazon/Orinoco region and check it out yourself. Ipe's downsides are well documented.
Matt, unrelated to this video, but what are your thoughts on painting brick on the exterior? What are the pros and cons? Do you recommend doing it and is there anything else in particular that we need to know to do it?
Its trendy. It's also paint. And brick. Not much to say except the mortar should be cured a d the surface clean before painting and a solid stain can work or paint but continue elastomeric as it will trap moisture.
@@danielbuckner2167 continue elastomer? What do you mean by that? Also, are you just signing up to make it a maintenance item instead of the maintenance-free nature of brick? If so, how often should it be repainted
@@pieorion883 signing up? "Continue elastomeric " is a type. The meaning there is that if you go with elastomeric paint then you will always have to use elastomeric paint and being very thick the layers build up. Also it is made to block moisture but typically water gets in somewhere but then cant get out. Of you want to be trendy then use a solid stIn instead of paint or even more stylish is a German shmere.
Hidden fasteners are the way to go. Face drilling hundreds of holes is a terrible way to spend a day. Ipe dulls blades quickly. On a chopsaw I have seen sparks from the mineral content in the wood.
Ipe is a pain in the ass to use. Heavy, hard as hell, narrow widths, it is a very oilly wood which makes it difficult to glue together if you need a wider board or want to do some fancy work. Also the smell is awful and the dust is toxic. Black locust has some of the same qualities, heavy, hard and narrow widths, but you can glue it and the dust isn't toxic.
Why no waterproof G-tape on the tops of all the PT framing!? HUGE mistake! For a couple of pennies...in comparison to the IPE and the Labor...G-Tape is a great investment particularly at a site like that...exposed and near the water ....that pressure treated material will rot in less than 20 years...even if it is ground contact rated....but the IPE with SS Screws will still be going strong....so the whole structure will be a disaster. I know because I just rebuilt a set of steps with a western exposure that looked like they had been in a fire due to the wet/sun cycling that the PT material went thru. Gotta do the tape!
Downvoted. IPE is not ecologically sustainable. It comes from sparse growths in South American rainforests. Basically they are cutting 100+ year old trees to deliver 20 year decks to the U.S.
@@kebonyusa I think Black Locust is a better choice than Ipe or Kebony. Locally harvested, the mature heartwood of black locust can last over 100+ years in ground contact. Neither Ipe or Kebony can do that.
@jami w I guess with IPE wood it might actually be better to transfer moisture to the underlying wood since its less valuable. However since its a ground level deck with joist that seems to block ventilation, big maybe. Also have to watch out with Joist tape and PVC, some tape reacts with the PVC and might degrade the materials!
I can think of a few issues. #1, Chocolate splits when you drive in the screws. #2, pets are allergic and will surely lick it at least once. #3, it melts at relatively low temperatures, #4, Compared to wood, it's going to cost you quite a bit more, #5, You would not be able to clean it without gouging it. #6, If you are addicted, the deck would never actually be built.... I think there are probably a couple of other downsides, but if you voted for Bernie in the primaries or Biden in the main election, I fully expect you to find out by trying it whether or not you can overcome these issues with "the right approach". Aww geez! I just ruined my own comment! What a jerk!
Sorry but I cannot stand wooden decks, they rot. Nothing more beautiful and lasting like stone and pavers for a patio. I would rather have a pole barn with stone pavers as the floor and make an outdoor kitchen BBQ. Most decks either have no roof, or some hillbilly roof. Stairs with loose handrails.
@@danielbuckner2167 Good idea. Trees are sustainable too but I just think decks should be covered to protect the wood. Otherwise they cause splash back issues and require chemicals usually to keep them up, or worse are torn down and rebuilt.
Matt the camera person recording was terrible. shacking often, viewing wrong image such as the person instead on the material being discussed. SHAME HIM or HER. Dock them from their vacation pay, etc :-)
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
The entryway to my favorite lumberyard is decked with ipe. It's about 12 years old, they don't do anything to protect it, it takes daily commercial traffic and still looks great.
Nice work & quality guest
Very nice, Matt!
I designed a deck, recently, for a client in Central Florida.
on one of the many rivers - dock, as well.
The client used ipe wood for the deck.
Very good wood and great for withstanding the local environment but the cost was nearly astronomical.
It was the client's choice, though.
Even so, it always comes down to budget for a deck and a dock.
As always, great information, Matt, thanks! :)
Matt, can you talk about new ideas and proposed fire building code changes in construction for fire prone areas around the country?
First tip, have a bucket of cash to afford IPE! :) I would love to use it on my deck, but the artificial decking looks quite nice these days and is zero maintenance. I think the IPE was about 20% more expensive than the artificial surfacing. What gets expensive on the IPE is the added milling costs to cut groves down the lengths of them for hidden fasteners.
It's easy to cut the Grove with a biscuit jointer where needed
@@fvdbd1231 def not easy to cut hardwoods
I’m a GC and built many IPE decks, I use the CAMO marksman fastener system and had no call backs on any of the decks.
Awesome--looking forward to a new Epi deck next spring! would luv to be able to acquire these sized boards and hardware reco'd by builder here. [in Toronto Canada?]
Is there drainage under the deck to prevent mold ?
Just built an ipe deck at our house, take your time estimate and double it. It's heavy, slow to cut and even slower to install with all the predrilling. But it looks amazing when it's done.
what side wood did you use?
When he said you can drag things across it and it wont scratch, I was sold..
So what will they do about the under side of the deck on the soil with the soil holding moisture..will they gravel it
It's very important to have air flow underneath the deck when you're using ipe
I'm lost on the 1/2 inch beam drop. The lumber dimensions are the same. If the plywood is glued and screwed to the beam, it's going to drop in relation to any shrinkage. I could see if it the transition was floated somehow to hide the crown or camber of the beam, but to me, this is essentially making a redundant plywood shim.
wood moves in all 3 dimensions. the one you are thinking of is the tangential, in that instance the up and down aka width of the board aka face. which u are correct the height of the deck will change the most dramatically as it loses the pressure infused wet chemical treatment ,PT lumber for deck framing, as well as the typical movement wood has as humidity changes. what they were pointing out was the change to the radial, aka thickness aka edge. for instance that triple they showed if it was particularity wet, could have measured 4.75" actual when installed and will acclimate to 4.5" actual in a couple months and then only experience nominal changes down the road . this is a real pain in the northern winter when you get fresh wet lumber that is frozen solid, heavy and thick as sin. the last type of movement is longitudinal. aka length. this last type is really small in woods your going to find on lumber shelves, maybe 0.2% for a softwood like used on the frame. that particular application was applicable because of the use those hidden fasteners having a fixed spacing. if it were being screwed from the top down, the carpenter would / should increase the spacing of the boards effected accordingly while making that transition.
the above face and edge flip places when using quarter-sawn lumber.
another critic tip when using ipe or mahogany and face screwing it, is to oversize the drill hole diameter so it has some 'slop'. stainless steel v. ipe that has moved is very ugly and ipe will win every single time. if you ever have to remove a board that doesn't have that slop, screws are likely to shear off or just strip if you are lucky.
i'm partial to ship goo ( equal parts pine tar, boiled linseed, and turpentine)
for end grain since it penetrates, rather than construction adhesive which becomes an added layer and gets squeezed out to some degree, is always tan colored and a pain to clean up. but hey thats just me.
Thing is that deck guy probably didn’t hear about joist tape to prevent that girder from swelling, plus hangers usually get installed incorrectly and joists drop down.
I was going to say the same thing. The plywood would have no effect on the y plane of the beam shrinking or expanding. I guess it’s effect would be felt on the x plane, where the expansion of the beam would fight against the plywood. That would put stress on the stainless fasteners in the plywood, but would keep the x-plane consistent. I wish Matt would go into the specifics about some of these interesting/unique details. Based on their conversation, I can’t tell if the valleys and hills that come from expansion and contraction are from changes in the x-plane or the y-plane. Seems to me the issue is with the y-plane, not the x-plane. Anyone willing to explain this in x-y terms?
This makes no sense to me. The lumber is same and likely the same moisture content so why would they both move/shrink the same as they dry out? Matt should have immediately asked WHY the girder would shrink more than the joists.
I think he saying that because the girder is sandwiched, the center later will dry out slower leaving a hump at its location- the plywood just helps span the inconsistency created from differential drying
All the 100+ year old decks in my area (Navasota, TX) are tongue in groove but I think spacing the deck boards will be better for longevity, any thoughts?
I really love a look of the real wood deck, especially IPE. What is the cost per linear feet for this size of board?
A bit surprised not to see any ice and water shield on top of the joists to be honest. Seems like the framing will fail well before the decking, as it's shown.
Would be nice to see the joists with some extra protection, even some liquid applied stuff.
For sure and dont lap down the sides either, just the top.
@jami w interesting. I’m a carpenter in Toronto and I find the tops of pressure treated deck joists starting to rot in as little as 10 years.
I think this is one of those things dependent on the weather of the area.
I did a two story deck and staircase with ipe that was over 1000 sqft using a very similar system. Came out amazing and basically sold the house for my client.
The 30 yr. 2.75% mortgage sold the house. Americans are taking on debt like water on the Titanic.
@@JamesG1126 cash sale, 2 years ago.
I agree with the "joist" tape comments, Matt seems to have forgotten his previous videos. I disagree with the board layout. With the waterfall coming off the side of the house, a line of potential rot will develop across all the boards. Much easier to lay the boards parallel to the house wall and pull one, maybe two boards. Plus, the whole ordeal of affixing two trim pieces with screws to hid/help the end grain of the boards is eliminated. All you have to do is pace your boards to the deck edge with the final board overhanging the desired 3/4 inch without the slot.
A great fire starter
What’s the channel used against the house ? Looks like a galvanized Z channel of some sort where the IPE slides in.
Cool tip with the edging. Wondering what sort of adhesive that is? Strong to prevent separating, or flexible to fill the gap when it expands? (I personally try avoid anything being connected on the face of my decks because I hate the inevitable gaps that appear no matter how studious you are... But I've never glued those joints either
I think he is talking about PL400 Premium. It’s the polyurethane version of regular PL400 glue.
What about repairs? if the screw is in the side and hidden how do you replace a damaged board without taking out the end or adjacent ones.
Just curious.... why no joist tape?
No joist tape when installing ipe?
Ipe will cover your entire shop in yellow sawdust!! LOL I built a small bench/pergola out of it for my home.
The guy knows his hardware. 316 and 304 are good for coastal applications. For marine use, they are also highly resistant to stress corrosion cracking. Interesting quick history lesson on zinc finishes... "hot dip zinc coated" is the term to use today to most clearly identify the superior zinc finish in which a metal (usually an iron alloy) is coated by dipping it in a bath of molten zinc leaving a transition layer of intermetallic zinc/iron sandwiched between the base metal and a thick, long-lasting layer of zinc on the outside. The finish which is made up of a thin layer of zinc deposited on the surface via an electrolytic bath is called "electroplated zinc". Not too too long ago you used to be able to just use the term "galvanized" to refer to the former but I'm modern times the electroplaters decided to start trying to confuse customers in order to earn more business, so they started using the term "electo-galvanized". The result is that even today some retailers don't know the difference and often mislabel the products they are selling. If it's an application where corrosion is a concern, you want a heavy hot dip zinc coating. It's a shame we need all those words to remove ambiguity.
I've had problems with cheap 304, not even in heavy weather situations, nowhere near the coast. Not had an issue with hot dip yet. But I'll be using 316 for hardware from now on
@@JSBax yeah 316 is superior to 304 (316 may not always be an option for some fasteners) but sometimes these alloys can suffer from surface corrosion due to impurities introduces during processing. The tooling used to form them is made from high carbon steel and bits of it can deposit themselves on the surface during forming. There are processes that are supposed to be used to passivate (also somewhat of a loaded term) the final product - various acidic washes at specific temperature and durations - but some manufacturers may not do them or do them poorly. It's important to remember though that unlike corrosion on carbon steel fastener, the corrosion is superficial. The fastener is still going to last, it just may not look as nice as you'd expect.
@Dennis Kapatos what is your opinion of mechanical galvanized hardware and 18-8 stainless?
@@iowawrench I believe the “mechanically” applied zinc refers to sprayed on coatings but please correct me if I’m wrong. I don’t have much knowledge or experience with these coatings but my intuition is that they’re probably similar performance to electroplated - maybe a little better or a little worse. No doubt it’s not going to come close to hot dip zinc coated because there’s no mechanism whereby the base metal would form an intermetallic zinc/iron layer like what happens with hot dip. Also I’m not aware of any standard which governs these processes unlike electroplating and hot dipping, so your results may vary between suppliers or even between lots. The thickness of the coating is also a consideration. Hot dip zinc coated fasteners, specifically internally threaded fasteners, require “overtapped” threads in order to accommodate assembly with these thicker coatings and to provide the required strength. 18-8 stainless refers to a group of stainless steels grades which vary greatly in their chemical composition - some better than others - so there can be a large amount of variation. It’s better than electroplated zinc but because it varies so much I think hot dip zinc coated fasteners would give you a more reliable/consistent corrosion resistance an of course much greater strength. In general stainless is weaker than carbon steel so stainless may not always be an option without stepping up to A286 which is very expensive.
@@DennisKapatos Don't forget the tools used during installation. If you are switching from high carbon interior hardware applications and then using these same bits/blades etc. to install stainless steel you could unintentionally be depositing or embedding material that is what is actually corroding. I'm nowhere near a coast but I've never had any issues with 304, shouldn't be an issue if its a quality supplier/manufacturer.
Curious about sealing the treated joists with a self-adhesive tape or something? If they're getting wet and at ground level in the shade some of it will be mush in 10 years. At least you can reuse the decking 😂
Matt, you should give your guests a chance to finish their sentences. He never got to show how the fastening system works. Very frustrating!
So how do you repair a board in the middle of the deck???
I have never worked with Ipe decking or Ipe Clips, but I can imagine that one could saw straight down between the board gap to cut through the clip allowing removal of the damaged board. It might be difficult to cut through the SS washer, but one might use a cutoff wheel. You could also cut down a little into the damaged board (parallel with the grain) through the plastic portion of the Ipe clip to avoid the SS. You wouldn't have to worry about damaging the board you're replacing by ripping or gouging it, because you're scrapping it. You would have to face-screw and plug the new board. Not too difficult...
ive always wondered why we dont use hydrophobic coating (like is often found sprayed on electrical boards inside, say, phones) in the process of outdoor wood, flashings, etc? surely not on the surfaces you walk on, as that would get slippery, but the sides and underside of each board, cut ends, etc.
with ipe it isn't so much the decking you need to worry about- that'll last for many decades- it's the framing under it that rots out.
That grooved IPE is likely $$$$$$
Not too bad. Especially if you have a truck to pick up in Sarastoa Fl. Which I did and plus it was on sale at time.
I could see scrape marks on that long board the guy was using for the demo, yet he claims it won't mark if you drag barbecues or teak chairs across it?
Same fastners as Trek decking. Works great, and a lot faster
1:08 "5 quarter meaning it's a fuel inch thick" lol I know what you mean but it sounds ridiculous. To a layman it sounds like 1.25.
Nice
What brand and style of epay is that?
Ipe
They sell ipe and epay, hybrids and replacements, some are not environmentally friendly. Some is FSC certified some isn't. There is a black market for ipe.
Here in eastern Canada 5/4 would mean 1 1/4 inches. It seems to change depending on region. I use quarters to describe rough lumber and nominal to describe finished. I would just call this 1" nominal.
metric has u all messed up. :) the extra quarter goes to the sawdust faeries and represents how much of the tree you are getting.
You're correct, and it works the same way here in the states (though, with the exception of 3/4," no one discusses quarter measures except wood workers and mills). 5/4 should represent the TRUE dimensions of the rough lumber product you're getting. If it's processed/milled to different dimensions, the new dimensions should be presented (nominal).
TL;DR: no one should be calling this a "5/4" product if what you get isn't ACTUALLY 5/4" thick.
@@DeadlyPlatypus but it's like 2 x 4 or 1 x 4, this is a 5/4 x 4 or also available as 5/4 x 6 meaning it's 1" x 3.5" or 1" x 5.5" after surface planing. Wouldn't it be confusing if they starting calling it a 1x4 where it was actually 1" x 3.5"? Seems very rare except in large timber sizes that anything is actually rough lumber anymore, most decking and lumber (in the US) is listed by its rough sawn (nominal) size but what you purchase is the milled dimension that keeps things consistent around the country and from supplier to supplier. Seems to make sense in keeping with everything else that they call the thicker deck boards 5/4. That way when you see the 1x4 or 1x6 deck board you know the thickness is the .75".
Problem with any of these tropical hardwoods is they are almost never sustainably harvested. Typical estimate is two acres of forest is destroyed for every salable tree. The sustainable forest certification is a complete joke - and everyone in the business knows it. I like Ipe, Cumaru and the rest, but it's damn-near criminal what is done to harvest these trees.
This is a very important point and thank you for presenting it.
Many props, sir!
Can you provide some sources to substantiate your claim... would like to read more about that.
Dude, it doesn't take 2 acres to produce 1 tree. Get educated.
Stop drinking the koolaid.
@@JamesG1126 I grew up in the area where most Ipe is from, they flower beautifully in the dry season and you can identify every tree from far away - they grow maybe 2 trees to an acre and in fairly difficult to access regions. You are un-informed on this, ADZB is correct. Go visit the Amazon/Orinoco region and check it out yourself. Ipe's downsides are well documented.
Welcome to LI
I wish my son would contact you for a new deck. Colorado is home.
Matt, unrelated to this video, but what are your thoughts on painting brick on the exterior? What are the pros and cons? Do you recommend doing it and is there anything else in particular that we need to know to do it?
Its trendy. It's also paint. And brick. Not much to say except the mortar should be cured a d the surface clean before painting and a solid stain can work or paint but continue elastomeric as it will trap moisture.
@@danielbuckner2167 continue elastomer? What do you mean by that? Also, are you just signing up to make it a maintenance item instead of the maintenance-free nature of brick? If so, how often should it be repainted
@@pieorion883 signing up? "Continue elastomeric " is a type. The meaning there is that if you go with elastomeric paint then you will always have to use elastomeric paint and being very thick the layers build up. Also it is made to block moisture but typically water gets in somewhere but then cant get out. Of you want to be trendy then use a solid stIn instead of paint or even more stylish is a German shmere.
Wow
The MAN duel is on at 6:30 :P
So funny when people do it.
why are some decks picture framed and others like this one not?
👍👍
"hand dipped" galvanized.
Ouch!!!
Hidden fasteners are the way to go. Face drilling hundreds of holes is a terrible way to spend a day. Ipe dulls blades quickly. On a chopsaw I have seen sparks from the mineral content in the wood.
Now that's a pricy deck
Johnny Deck Tips
Looks awesome but top facing screws allow for single board replacement. This doesn't
Agreed, when it’s done properly, face screw looks awesome, even over years
REALLY, i literally just finished puting my deck boards down yesterday....
And now you are tearing it up, and ordering the IPE:)
@@juzoli haha i would but no, its enough work for just me to do it once lol
1 1/4"
The Universe offers all things to all people through the law of attraction.
Ipe is a pain in the ass to use. Heavy, hard as hell, narrow widths, it is a very oilly wood which makes it difficult to glue together if you need a wider board or want to do some fancy work. Also the smell is awful and the dust is toxic. Black locust has some of the same qualities, heavy, hard and narrow widths, but you can glue it and the dust isn't toxic.
Matt, check out Dr. Decks on RUclips. He's out of Washington State. "Very Impressive! "
I wanted Ipe for my deck project then I saw the cost........... I suppose it works out over the 75 year life span, but man the sticker shock........
Triple the cost for installation also...
@@yanlisovskiy7135 If you can afford the wood, I doubt the clips and screws are an issue.......LOL
Why no waterproof G-tape on the tops of all the PT framing!? HUGE mistake! For a couple of pennies...in comparison to the IPE and the Labor...G-Tape is a great investment particularly at a site like that...exposed and near the water ....that pressure treated material will rot in less than 20 years...even if it is ground contact rated....but the IPE with SS Screws will still be going strong....so the whole structure will be a disaster. I know because I just rebuilt a set of steps with a western exposure that looked like they had been in a fire due to the wet/sun cycling that the PT material went thru. Gotta do the tape!
Downvoted. IPE is not ecologically sustainable. It comes from sparse growths in South American rainforests. Basically they are cutting 100+ year old trees to deliver 20 year decks to the U.S.
IPE!? Yikes; you should be installing Kebony
Amen!
@@kebonyusa I think Black Locust is a better choice than Ipe or Kebony. Locally harvested, the mature heartwood of black locust can last over 100+ years in ground contact. Neither Ipe or Kebony can do that.
@@ekimosurac1 Black Locust is a very durable, but like Ipe the dust, bark, and leaves can be harmful to your health. Kebony is not.
So much attention to detail and no joist tape? I would be curious to know if this is an intentional decision or just an oversight.
@jami w I guess with IPE wood it might actually be better to transfer moisture to the underlying wood since its less valuable. However since its a ground level deck with joist that seems to block ventilation, big maybe.
Also have to watch out with Joist tape and PVC, some tape reacts with the PVC and might degrade the materials!
There’s a bunch of thing they don’t do when it comes to expensive decking.
marine screws wow.. only secret here is having $30,000 to blow on a deck.
LMFAO!
I did about a 700sq ft Trex deck at my house with the hidden fastners. The fastners were over $1000s, the lady at the store almost fainted! 😂
Yeah, it’s not cheap but surely looks better that any fake material or regular PT
That's what you work for. Fruits of your labor.
NEWS ALERT! Nice things cost more than others. More at 11:00.
@@scottbitterli6365 PRECISELY my point !! it's not exactly a secret is it? it's all in the extra $$$$$$$$$$$ lol
The only secret is MONEY. Ipe, and you already know its bling bling
Make sure to oil your deck daily and dont abuse your deck
That is if you don’t like weathered look though
@@yanlisovskiy7135 or just use MODWOOD so you don't have to mess around with oil and shit ever...
Also, trimming the bushes around your deck makes it look bigger.
“Two Dads Talk For 8 Minutes About Wood”
"75 people talk about two dads talking for 8 minutes about wood"
Unsubscribing. Can't endorse pushing ipe.
I just farted and produced CO2. I bet that makes you enraged.
@@JamesG1126 methane, you can’t set fire to CO2, try it if you don’t believe me, just watch out for blow back.
There are other options: us.kebony.com/blog/kebony-vs-ipe/
Interesting tick the guy has where he mouthes the words he hears others speak. Never
When you write the script they are reading that can happen too.
Home Despot don't carry no Ipe.
Third.
Cutting down the rain forest to build a stupid deck
Get lost!
Behind every John there is a crew of Hispanics doing the job .
can you make a deck of real chocolate?
You can do anything you want
could you stop at just eating the cutoffs?
I can think of a few issues. #1, Chocolate splits when you drive in the screws. #2, pets are allergic and will surely lick it at least once. #3, it melts at relatively low temperatures, #4, Compared to wood, it's going to cost you quite a bit more, #5, You would not be able to clean it without gouging it. #6, If you are addicted, the deck would never actually be built.... I think there are probably a couple of other downsides, but if you voted for Bernie in the primaries or Biden in the main election, I fully expect you to find out by trying it whether or not you can overcome these issues with "the right approach". Aww geez! I just ruined my own comment! What a jerk!
Sorry but I cannot stand wooden decks, they rot. Nothing more beautiful and lasting like stone and pavers for a patio. I would rather have a pole barn with stone pavers as the floor and make an outdoor kitchen BBQ. Most decks either have no roof, or some hillbilly roof. Stairs with loose handrails.
first
mah fukin dek!
Absolutely not. Concrete.
Absolutely not. Recycled crushed aggregate.
Wood decks are awful...our new house will have concrete covered porches.
@@mamabear9389 trees grow back. Limestone doesnt. Why not use sustainable resources like rammed earth?
@@danielbuckner2167 Good idea. Trees are sustainable too but I just think decks should be covered to protect the wood. Otherwise they cause splash back issues and require chemicals usually to keep them up, or worse are torn down and rebuilt.
Almost first!
Matt the camera person recording was terrible. shacking often, viewing wrong image such as the person instead on the material being discussed. SHAME HIM or HER. Dock them from their vacation pay, etc :-)