I use nail polish ALL of the time in my geode/marble mobiles- I never use more than 4% volume, and it is hands down THE VERY BEST WAY to acquire a matte/non-shimmery deeply tinted hue to incorporate into my resin pour. I particularly enjoy the reactions between the different densities of resin. It is true that the more glittery or even heavily glittered pigments/powder concoctions will sink to the bottom of the pour so the aforementioned layering technique is the obvious solution-HOWEVER, what everybody fails to mention when offering that solution is that PLACEMENT in your desired location then becomes tricky and. Is often prone to cattywompus overlapping that detracts from the end result you were hoping for… in most cases you’re not looking to have a floating ring that intersect, overlaps, or obscures desirable aspects of the initial pouring. To prevent this, the depth of the second level needs to be PAPER THIN. Additionally, when you mix your resin, divide the mixed product into clear coat and whatever glitter mixes you intend on adding- you will need the clear mix to adjust the placement of your glitter mixes- keeping in mind how THIN you want it to be. If your glitter deposit should be a solid center piece, just surround the area you want it in with clear rung PRIOR to pouring your center, or pour less in the center than you think you need(you should be pouring less in this scenario to start with anyways- as u can always add more, but if you pour too much, there is no going back) and then surround it with a ring of clear. Any other rings of color should be added in sequence following this same system. The clear will be used to move the colored resin to its desired location- this is the only way, unless using boundary epoxy to designate a location for your mix. I do not re comment using epoxy on an over layer, however, because it defies the thin prerequisite& will make it look far too 3D, diminishing the focal points of the under layer& ability to see the piece as a whole& not separate floating layers. ❤
Many thanks for putting all the colourant options into one video with comments on leaving the resin for ten minutes before adding alcohol ink. Very useful indeed! 👍
Thanks, this was exactly what I needed! I don't work with it myself but wanted to gift someone who only has worked with clear resin some colours! This helped me decide. Since it's a present, might aswell go for the resin tints, they can always get acrylic paints by themselves:)
This is great advice. One thing I noted was how to include imperfections on purpose to artistic effect. Example: I'm making a base for a model that's supposed to be rising from swampy water. by adding what could be described as a poor colorant will provide a dull and muddy look much like disturbed swamp mud. After curing I can apply a light coat of gloss spray for a wet look.
Interesting to hear your views on using oils. I use oils in all my works with great success, you just need to add a small amount of paint into your cup and add mixed clear resin little at a time, using a small flat spatula, until you achieve the correct ratio. Oils glow so beautifully in resin. Also I find alcohol ink tinted resin floats to the top and can leave harder lines. So for dreamy, ethereal, softly blended effects I use mica powders and oils, which disperse more evenly. You can also apply alcohol ink directly onto 12-24hr cured resin and soften the tone by dabbing with pure rubbing alcohol on a paper towel, or flick the pure alcohol onto the surface to create stunning watercolour like effects. It dries in a few seconds and can be poured over without rising to the surface. Also, it's so important to be aware that any titanium white based pigment WILL make your resin yellow over time. So I would recommend purchasing whites specifically for resin without titanium dioxide.
The oil binder will yellow not the titanium white pigment itself which is super lightfast. That's why premium oil brands use poppy, safflower or walnut as they yellow less than linseed.
Thank you so much for this video its really helpful. I just start do some work with epoxy,i am like beginner,living in FL my name is Alex Ur video really help me how to figure out add colors also help me what category of paint colors should i use. Thank you so much again THE GOD BLESS YOU 🙏
When I first started using resin, I was having such a problem with bubbles. And then I found out about a little hack of taking a spray bottle with some rubbing alcohol, and when you are done putting it over your piece, mist a squirt or two over it. What that does is breaks the surface tension, releases all the bubbles and I have fantastic results nowadays! So I’ve never had a problem with curing as far it ever “breaking down“ my resin
Many artists use a spritz of isopropyl alcohol to clear bubbles from the surface of their resin. Just be sure to use a high % alcohol and use it sparingly :)
Yes,I thank you very much. I am just getting started working with Resin and epoxy,and looking forward to it. From Me,K-Lee,and my oh,so Unsinkable Molly Brown.🐕🏳️🌈 We do everything with PRIDE🤑
Omg yes! I had not seen 1 video talk about it getting hard. So here I am thinking it will take forever to harden, i take my time and then when I try pouring the second layer my resin was no longer usable! It got super hard and tacky! So work fast and consider that leaving resin out for about 15 minutes or more makes it hard , easier for keeping it in one place but then it becomes hard to work with!
OK, I’m gonna tell you you are awesome. Thank you so much for craving this video like I said in a comment below all I’ve ever used is paint because that’s all I’ve ever had so now I know that the type of paint has to do with something this is definitely helpful for my future projects. Thank you so much.
So very glad I found this video. You have answered SO many questions I've had about working with resin. I've been wondering if you should immediately drop the inks in the resin or if you needed to wait a little while. Now I know about how long I should wait. I have never done any resin projects before, and, I can't really afford to waste any materials (who can, really ?) when I do finally make something. So, I need to find out all I can before making the first piece. TYSM for sharing this video with us. 👍👍👍
Ive used food coloring in the past you can tint resin with it you just have to mix it for a very long time to get the little Speckles out but you can still sometimes see them if you look really close
That's good to hear - I guess I didn't mix mine long enough, because I ended up with a lot of those specks. :) The main issue with food coloring as a resin tint is that it's not light fast ... meaning it will fade quite quickly and the color of your project will drastically change. Best bet for longevity and saturation is to use a pigment based tint of your choice - whether that's a paste, a pigment powder, or a liquid colorant - and, as you correctly said, to mix it really well :)
Oh my goodness, so glad I found this!! I would have probably used a lighter on alcohol ink due to not thinking about what’s in it! 😅 Thx for the great tips and teaching!! ❤
That is a metal tray from Ikea. These trays come in gold or silver colour and they look incredible when you pour ArtResin into them. Have a look at our blog that shows you a beautiful way to pour in these trays: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/how-to-make-resin-flow-art?_pos=1&_sid=6695f37e2&_ss=r
What is the white form you are pouring into around minute 3.05? Is it a mild or a permanent frame? It looks pretty shallow and like something in looking for.
That is just a liquid art panel that we had painted with white paint. Liquid art panels are just cradled wood panels with a 1/4" lip around the edge to contain liquid pours. You can find these online or at your local art supply store.
Castin Craft Color Pigment can be used in Epoxy and Polyurethane resins. Rit Dye (powder) can be used in Epoxy and Polyurethane resins. Mica Powders can be used in Epoxy and Polyurethane resins. Kitchen spices can be used with Epoxy and Polyurethane resins. you can use food coloring to color epoxy resin. However, you should ensure that the food coloring is oil-based, as water-based food coloring can cause the resin to become cloudy. It is also important to note that using too much food coloring can affect the curing process of the epoxy resin. Mixing paints and acrylics with epoxy is not recommended. Here's why... resin is a byproduct of oil. So acrylic-based, water-based and even some oddly blended oil-based pigments don't mix well.
I'm looking for some color to use on coasters, I see where they use the mica powder and they put it directly on The coasters. I'm looking for like a paint pen or something similar, I have coasters that have a plaid color to them. I am very new to this. The coaster does not have the depth to be able to pour different resin color without bleeding into one color to another. I've heard some people use acrylic paint pens I was just wanting to know a little input on that please. And thank you I'm enjoying your videos like I said I'm a newbie.
Hi Amanda, yes you can paint mica directly onto the silicone mold itself then pour the resin over. You can also use acrylic paint pens to draw your design on once the resin has cured. After you draw on your design, just give the piece a top coat of resin to seal the design on permanently.
@@Artresin Thank you so very much. That really helps boost my confidence. If it has a design I can still use the Acrylic paint in to go over the raised edges?. Loving your videos, I've been watching one right after another very interesting and informative. ❣️❣️
Re-watching this video, I was looking for any information on resin dye. Can it be used with resin tint? I used both in a coaster and it cured with a very oily residue on top. Thank you! ♥️
Hi Kathy, most colourants designed for use with epoxy resin will work just fine. Since different brands and different colourants can all be different we always recommend testing new products first to ensure you get the results you want. The oily residue you noticed can be a result of not mixing your ResinTint in thoroughly enough or using just a little too much.
Hi there, I have a question... Is there any way to fix color of, already poured and set resin? Or a technique that you know of? The color came out more red than the preferred purple? Would you just paint over it with acrylic or something? Thanks in advance
The best way to fix this would be to sand the surface lightly, then you could paint with acrylic paint and pour a clear coat of ArtResin overtop once dry, or you could pour a fresh layer of tinted ArtResin to correct the colour.
how does the food color fade? Does she mean out in the sun? I was thinking of using it on cutting boards. What coloring is best for that application? TIA
Food colour and some inks can be less lightfast meaning they will fade out quicker. If you choose a high quality pigment for your resin project you will find the colour will stay vibrant much longer.
It really is all preference and what effect you are going for. Using a lot of acrylic paint could yield a matte finish, some powders have a shimmer to them etc.
I wish you would do a 6 month light challenge using your products, esp the alcohol inks, since they will fade from those brilliant colors to rather sad muted ones when exposed to sunlight. Just make 2 demo boards of the colors, put one on a windowsill and put the other, wrapped in a dark cloth in a dark drawer for 6 months. Then compare. No change? Go with what you used. Any change? Avoid it.
Thanks so much for watching and for taking the time to comment! This information is definitely for epoxy resin - I would think it would work for UV resin as well, but it's best to check with the manufacturer of the UV resin you're using so you know for sure. I would also do a little test anytime you're using a new type of colorant, just to make sure you know exactly what type of results to expect. Hope that helps!
I've been wondering if I could use golden fluids in resin to slightly tint ... Just checking with water how much I'd need to make it just a slight colour but still transparent so I can see the flowers and glitter.
Most acrylic paints mix in well. Do not add any water to your resin mixture or you will end up with a cloudy mess. Acrylic paints often make more of an opaque finish, our ResinTints will give a beautiful translucent colour to your resin.
@@Artresin oh that's awesome. No, no I didn't add any water as I know that it's not meant to be added at all. I added the paint to water just to test what it would look like if I added it to resin. It worked by adding the golden fluids to the resin but I needed a few more drops then what I did with the water as the resin is a completely different consistency then water. Thank you!
Hi there! All of these recommendations are for ArtResin, which is an epoxy resin. It's best to check with the manufacturer of the UV Resin you're using to see what types of colorants they recommend and what amounts are compatible with their formula :)
Yes, you can use mica and acrylic. We always like to test a small amount first as different paints can have different effects, but in general yes--give it a shot!!
hi, I'm still very new to epoxy. I'm going to do a study and I want to get a very dark and matte sieh. Can you give me a colorant code that you can recommend in this regard.
We find that using acrylic paint as a colourant gives a very saturated colour, it also tends to result in a less glossy finish. Its a good idea to test first as different acrylic paints can act differently. Remember to add less than 6% of any colourant to avoid affecting the cure.
Have a look at our blog on how to clean up for some great tips: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/how-to-clean-up-epoxy-resin?_pos=1&_sid=5f22cc093&_ss=r
Hi, I am new to all things resin. After watching numerous RUclips channels I hear a lot of them say that alcohol inks are not recommended as they fade very quickly. I am very confused as you recommend them. What is the correct advice please
Hi Norma - thank you for the great question, and yes, all the information out there can make things confusing. The most important thing to note is alcohol inks are made with dye based colorants, which is are less lightfast than pigments. Like many art materials, they can fade with prolonged exposure to sunlight. However, the brand and quality can make a huge difference. ArtResin's inks (and other high quality brands like Piñata) use lightfast dyes. This not only results in a really deep saturated colour, but it really helps to reduce fading over time. I use ArtResin inks and Piñata, but bought I bought a popular, inexpensive brand from Amazon to compare and the difference in colour is significant! Not only do lesser quality dyes promote fading, but the inks can change colour over time too - purples turning to brown etc. It comes down to the lightfastness and quality of raw materials. It's important to note too that many white inks and metallic inks are made with pigment. That's why the white is used as a "sinker" because the pigment makes it heavier and able to drive the dye based colored ink down into the resin. But again, not all brands are. ArtResin's white is pigment based, as is Piñata's white and their metallics too. It's best to check with each brand to read the specs for their inks. Like with any art, it's best to keep alcohol ink out of direct sunlight to avoid UV damage. For alcohol ink on Yupo, you can apply a Kamar varnish first (this will seal the inks without causing them to bleed) and then a UV sealant spray, as well as the resin to help protect it. Hope that helps!
I don't like how fast most white resins cure, but I'm making dolls so clear is a little off from what I want. What can I add to make it opaque? Can I do a drop of acrylic paint? My sample size is two brands. I want a long pot life, but an opaque finish.
Yes, you can use a bit of acrylic paint, but make sure you use one that is highly pigmented so you don't need a lot. I would do some little tests first to see which white colorant or white acrylic paint gives you the results you want. Because acrylic paint is water based, I would stay away from white paint that is too fluid - it can react with the resin and cause it to become thick. You could also try white pigment powder (not mica powder - which is sparkly). There are also white pigment paste designed for ocean art waves that create a nice, opaque white. Hope that helps!
Hi I made a Gryffindor and Slytherin badge which are Gold and Silver. the resin cured and they look awesome however the colour didn't tun out well. I painted them with a mixture of pigment powder, paint medium/varnish and mod podge (matte) I made is this OK to put on cured varnish? cheers
You can use acrylic paint as a colourant, as far as food colouring goes--we did not find it a good choice. Not only is the dye in the food colouring not very lightfast and will fade out easily, often food colourants are set in water and do not mix in well. It is definitely worth testing on your own on a small amount first to see what works for you.
My deep pour resin (72 hours curing time) reacted very badly to acrylic paint. It boiled up and fully cured in 45 minutes. I demolded it from my skull mold and it looks like lava rock. 😅
oh wow! It's always good to test new ingredients first to ensure they work for you. In this case it sounds like your resin flash cured which may be entirely unrelated to the addition of the acrylic paint, or it could have been something in the paint that made the resin overheat.
I know this is an older video, but I found it to be very informative and clear. I will be looking at your other videos, but if you haven't done one on bubbles under the lip of molds, I could sure use some help there. Keep up the great work and thank you!
Thank you so much! Yes, when we filmed it, resin paste wasn't really much of a thing, so too bad this is missing. We could have done a whole section on ocean waves :). Maybe we'll film a part 2. Thanks for the video idea - I'll add it to my list! In the meantime, I know some artists spritz alcohol on their molds before adding the resin to it. And after you pour, you can also run a small tool around the rim to release bubbles.. something like a toothpick, but not as pointy or your molds will get scratched. I really find warming the resin helps in reducing bubbles, pouring really slowly, and pouring against the side of the mold (almost like when you pour beer against the side of the glass to reduce foam). Hope that helps!
Hi there - it's hard for me to say without seeing both products, but I would say they are two different things. Mica refers to ground mica, which is a mineral that gives a specific pearlescent effect. Ground mica can be added to pigment powder to create "mica powder" and can be added to different types of paint or ink. Metallic paint may have other elements in it to provide a metallic look - and it's not always pearlescent like mica is.
I am not familiar with RV resin, but ResinTint is compatible with most epoxy resin brands. It is always a good idea to test a small amount first to be sure you get the results you want :)
Thank you. I tried dye-based ink refills (like for stamp pads). I found that if I mix it in with the resin/hardener already mixed and stirred well, it worked fine. However, if I just poured the mixed resin into my mold and then tried to do a polka-dot effect with the ink, it seemed to do okay until I removed from the mold. The ink went through the resin and left holes (so the ink poured out the holes when I removed the pieces and I got inky fingers). Lesson learned, only use dye based ink if you stir it well into the resin/hardener mix and then pour. Question: my hardener has turned yellow-ish; is it still okay to use? The resin still is clear.
Hi Dahia, the yellowing you are seeing is due to oxidization. We recommend using ArtResin within 12 months of the date of manufacture and within 6 months after opening for the optimal clarity. You can use the yellowed hardener in applications over dark backgrounds or when tinting a darker colour. Have a look at our blog: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/what-can-you-do-with-yellowed-hardener-and-resin?_pos=7&_sid=729855e7b&_ss=r
I use nail polish ALL of the time in my geode/marble mobiles- I never use more than 4% volume, and it is hands down THE VERY BEST WAY to acquire a matte/non-shimmery deeply tinted hue to incorporate into my resin pour. I particularly enjoy the reactions between the different densities of resin. It is true that the more glittery or even heavily glittered pigments/powder concoctions will sink to the bottom of the pour so the aforementioned layering technique is the obvious solution-HOWEVER, what everybody fails to mention when offering that solution is that PLACEMENT in your desired location then becomes tricky and. Is often prone to cattywompus overlapping that detracts from the end result you were hoping for… in most cases you’re not looking to have a floating ring that intersect, overlaps, or obscures desirable aspects of the initial pouring. To prevent this, the depth of the second level needs to be PAPER THIN. Additionally, when you mix your resin, divide the mixed product into clear coat and whatever glitter mixes you intend on adding- you will need the clear mix to adjust the placement of your glitter mixes- keeping in mind how THIN you want it to be. If your glitter deposit should be a solid center piece, just surround the area you want it in with clear rung PRIOR to pouring your center, or pour less in the center than you think you need(you should be pouring less in this scenario to start with anyways- as u can always add more, but if you pour too much, there is no going back) and then surround it with a ring of clear. Any other rings of color should be added in sequence following this same system. The clear will be used to move the colored resin to its desired location- this is the only way, unless using boundary epoxy to designate a location for your mix. I do not re comment using epoxy on an over layer, however, because it defies the thin prerequisite& will make it look far too 3D, diminishing the focal points of the under layer& ability to see the piece as a whole& not separate floating layers. ❤
Thanks for sharing that information :).
How to measure percentage?
What resin is the best for the nail polish?
I am so glad you explained how to blend colors without them bleeding into each other. I see this all the time, but no one explained how it is done.
So glad you found this helpful! Thanks for tuning in :)
Many thanks for putting all the colourant options into one video with comments on leaving the resin for ten minutes before adding alcohol ink. Very useful indeed! 👍
Thanks, Rob! Glad you found it helpful!
I like your simple and easy way of demonstrations and explainations, no nosense talk either. Keep it up.
Thanks, this was exactly what I needed!
I don't work with it myself but wanted to gift someone who only has worked with clear resin some colours!
This helped me decide.
Since it's a present, might aswell go for the resin tints, they can always get acrylic paints by themselves:)
Thats a fun gift!!
Thank you SO MUCH for combining all of this crucial information in one easy to understand video.
It is excellent !
Valuable information for a newbie like me. Thank you!!
Thank you so much for your knowledge about resin I want to know more tips about resin products making
This is great advice. One thing I noted was how to include imperfections on purpose to artistic effect. Example: I'm making a base for a model that's supposed to be rising from swampy water. by adding what could be described as a poor colorant will provide a dull and muddy look much like disturbed swamp mud. After curing I can apply a light coat of gloss spray for a wet look.
Thats a really great point! Sometimes we can use the "fails" in our artwork to our benefit!! Thanks for sharing that tip :)
Interesting to hear your views on using oils. I use oils in all my works with great success, you just need to add a small amount of paint into your cup and add mixed clear resin little at a time, using a small flat spatula, until you achieve the correct ratio. Oils glow so beautifully in resin. Also I find alcohol ink tinted resin floats to the top and can leave harder lines. So for dreamy, ethereal, softly blended effects I use mica powders and oils, which disperse more evenly. You can also apply alcohol ink directly onto 12-24hr cured resin and soften the tone by dabbing with pure rubbing alcohol on a paper towel, or flick the pure alcohol onto the surface to create stunning watercolour like effects. It dries in a few seconds and can be poured over without rising to the surface. Also, it's so important to be aware that any titanium white based pigment WILL make your resin yellow over time. So I would recommend purchasing whites specifically for resin without titanium dioxide.
Hi Christina, thank you so much for sharing this information! We may have to go back and experiment more with these techniques :)
The oil binder will yellow not the titanium white pigment itself which is super lightfast. That's why premium oil brands use poppy, safflower or walnut as they yellow less than linseed.
Cool! do you have any tutorials or a RUclips Channel?
I’ve used the craft city paint and I’ve always liked how it turned out
Very detailed and impressive video. Well done and extremely helpful!
Thank you! I just started doing resin art!
@@seagypsybnb Glad it helped!! ❤️
Thank you so much for this video its really helpful.
I just start do some work with epoxy,i am like beginner,living in FL my name is Alex
Ur video really help me how to figure out add colors also help me what category of paint colors should i use.
Thank you so much again THE GOD BLESS YOU 🙏
Thanks so much for watching!
Can you explain the difference between pigment powder and pigment paste. I want to try geode art, but not sure what to use.
When I first started using resin, I was having such a problem with bubbles. And then I found out about a little hack of taking a spray bottle with some rubbing alcohol, and when you are done putting it over your piece, mist a squirt or two over it. What that does is breaks the surface tension, releases all the bubbles and I have fantastic results nowadays! So I’ve never had a problem with curing as far it ever “breaking down“ my resin
Many artists use a spritz of isopropyl alcohol to clear bubbles from the surface of their resin. Just be sure to use a high % alcohol and use it sparingly :)
when should we spray rubbing alcohol? when the resin is wet ?
@@aminah5202 you spray the isopropyl alcohol when the resin is still wet.
@@aminah5202 yes when wet. As soon as I’m done. Then cover w/ a plastic box etc.
@@aminah5202 DO NOT TORCH if use alcohol!!
As a novice with resin art, that was really helpful and informative.Thank you!
Thats great to hear, please reach out anytime with questions :)
Yes,I thank you very
much.
I am just getting started working with
Resin and epoxy,and looking forward to it.
From Me,K-Lee,and my oh,so Unsinkable
Molly Brown.🐕🏳️🌈
We do everything with PRIDE🤑
This information was very helpful. Thank you
This was very useful, thank you for the tips
Omg yes! I had not seen 1 video talk about it getting hard. So here I am thinking it will take forever to harden, i take my time and then when I try pouring the second layer my resin was no longer usable! It got super hard and tacky! So work fast and consider that leaving resin out for about 15 minutes or more makes it hard , easier for keeping it in one place but then it becomes hard to work with!
There are lots of videos on the internet about getting it hard.
Thank you for this video it’s been so helpful 😀
SO helpful! Great overview of all the ways to color resin.
OK, I’m gonna tell you you are awesome. Thank you so much for craving this video like I said in a comment below all I’ve ever used is paint because that’s all I’ve ever had so now I know that the type of paint has to do with something this is definitely helpful for my future projects. Thank you so much.
You're so welcome! Glad you found it helpful! :)
Great explanation on each method of coloring the resin. Thank you!
Thank you so very much for all the information.
It opened my eyes for a better experience.
Thank you again.
Dave M
That's great to hear! Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment! :)
Thanks for this video, very informative!. I am a beginner so I need this kind of help and I'm glad I found your video. Thanks so much. ❤
So very glad I found this video. You have answered SO many questions I've had about working with resin. I've been wondering if you should immediately drop the inks in the resin or if you needed to wait a little while. Now I know about how long I should wait. I have never done any resin projects before, and, I can't really afford to waste any materials (who can, really ?) when I do finally make something. So, I need to find out all I can before making the first piece. TYSM for sharing this video with us. 👍👍👍
We are so happy to help!
great video, thank you so so much for all the info :)
Ive used food coloring in the past you can tint resin with it you just have to mix it for a very long time to get the little Speckles out but you can still sometimes see them if you look really close
That's good to hear - I guess I didn't mix mine long enough, because I ended up with a lot of those specks. :)
The main issue with food coloring as a resin tint is that it's not light fast ... meaning it will fade quite quickly and the color of your project will drastically change. Best bet for longevity and saturation is to use a pigment based tint of your choice - whether that's a paste, a pigment powder, or a liquid colorant - and, as you correctly said, to mix it really well :)
Thank you I'm a beginner your info is so helpful
Thank you for all that info. And I love your shirt
I am also trying from my own this art form
This was pretty helpful and I like that your resin is nontoxic. 👌🏼
Oh my goodness, so glad I found this!! I would have probably used a lighter on alcohol ink due to not thinking about what’s in it! 😅 Thx for the great tips and teaching!! ❤
You're very welcome! So glad you found it helpful :)
Thank you. Needed this info.
Thanks a lot for sharing all the information.I appreciate it very much.
this was great for a beginner like me thanks!
Fantastic tips…thank you! I learned a few things, which I appreciate! Thank you!
thanks Kathy!
This video answered all my questions, thank you!
This was sooooo helpful!! Thank you so much!!
You're so welcome - thank you for watching! ❤
This is amazing info! So happy I found you! Although I have a bit of a memory problem! Is there any way I can get back to this? Thank you
great video i had a few questions and you answered them all so think for the great info
Perfect!
Thanks for d information.
This is really good thanks for this video I wasn’t aware of the differences. When my fb group let’s do resin together I will
Very informative. Thank you.
Extremely informative. Thank you!
Thank you!!! What is that golden tin you used at the end of the video??
That is a metal tray from Ikea. These trays come in gold or silver colour and they look incredible when you pour ArtResin into them. Have a look at our blog that shows you a beautiful way to pour in these trays:
www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/how-to-make-resin-flow-art?_pos=1&_sid=6695f37e2&_ss=r
What an informative video. I learned so much. Thank you.
Thanks for taking the time to watch :)
This was the exact info I was looking for; tyvm!
So glad you found this helpful!
Fantastic video. Just what I needed
thanks mamvery good suggestion❤❤❤❤❤❤
This was so helpful. Thank you
What is the white form you are pouring into around minute 3.05? Is it a mild or a permanent frame? It looks pretty shallow and like something in looking for.
That is just a liquid art panel that we had painted with white paint. Liquid art panels are just cradled wood panels with a 1/4" lip around the edge to contain liquid pours. You can find these online or at your local art supply store.
Castin Craft Color Pigment can be used in Epoxy and Polyurethane resins. Rit Dye (powder) can be used in Epoxy and Polyurethane resins. Mica Powders can be used in Epoxy and Polyurethane resins. Kitchen spices can be used with Epoxy and Polyurethane resins.
you can use food coloring to color epoxy resin. However, you should ensure that the food coloring is oil-based, as water-based food coloring can cause the resin to become cloudy. It is also important to note that using too much food coloring can affect the curing process of the epoxy resin.
Mixing paints and acrylics with epoxy is not recommended. Here's why... resin is a byproduct of oil. So acrylic-based, water-based and even some oddly blended oil-based pigments don't mix well.
Thanks for this information!!
The best explanation ever
Thanks Ricky!
Great and Generous. Thanks Big
Super helpful tips thank u.
I'm looking for some color to use on coasters, I see where they use the mica powder and they put it directly on The coasters. I'm looking for like a paint pen or something similar, I have coasters that have a plaid color to them. I am very new to this. The coaster does not have the depth to be able to pour different resin color without bleeding into one color to another. I've heard some people use acrylic paint pens I was just wanting to know a little input on that please. And thank you I'm enjoying your videos like I said I'm a newbie.
Hi Amanda, yes you can paint mica directly onto the silicone mold itself then pour the resin over. You can also use acrylic paint pens to draw your design on once the resin has cured. After you draw on your design, just give the piece a top coat of resin to seal the design on permanently.
@@Artresin Thank you so very much. That really helps boost my confidence. If it has a design I can still use the Acrylic paint in to go over the raised edges?. Loving your videos, I've been watching one right after another very interesting and informative. ❣️❣️
Nice information
Awesome video. Thankyou!
Re-watching this video, I was looking for any information on resin dye. Can it be used with resin tint? I used both in a coaster and it cured with a very oily residue on top. Thank you! ♥️
Hi Kathy, most colourants designed for use with epoxy resin will work just fine. Since different brands and different colourants can all be different we always recommend testing new products first to ensure you get the results you want. The oily residue you noticed can be a result of not mixing your ResinTint in thoroughly enough or using just a little too much.
Can you use black 3.0 in a resin project?
Or a white 2.0 in a resin project?
If not what is the blackest and whitest color you could use?
You can use whatever intensity of colorant you choose, we just recommend not adding more than 6% colorant to volume of mixed resin for best results.
A very helpful video - thank you!
Excellent video. Thanks.
Thanks for watching! :)
Thank you for the info!
Hi there, I have a question...
Is there any way to fix color of, already poured and set resin? Or a technique that you know of? The color came out more red than the preferred purple? Would you just paint over it with acrylic or something? Thanks in advance
The best way to fix this would be to sand the surface lightly, then you could paint with acrylic paint and pour a clear coat of ArtResin overtop once dry, or you could pour a fresh layer of tinted ArtResin to correct the colour.
@@Artresin that's a great idea. Thanks so much! ❤️❤️❤️
how does the food color fade? Does she mean out in the sun? I was thinking of using it on cutting boards. What coloring is best for that application? TIA
Food colour and some inks can be less lightfast meaning they will fade out quicker. If you choose a high quality pigment for your resin project you will find the colour will stay vibrant much longer.
Very interesting!! Thanks!
Very Good Young Lady...
Hello... can you explain the difference between white pigment paste vs powder vs liquid????
It really is all preference and what effect you are going for. Using a lot of acrylic paint could yield a matte finish, some powders have a shimmer to them etc.
I wish you would do a 6 month light challenge using your products, esp the alcohol inks, since they will fade from those brilliant colors to rather sad muted ones when exposed to sunlight. Just make 2 demo boards of the colors, put one on a windowsill and put the other, wrapped in a dark cloth in a dark drawer for 6 months. Then compare. No change? Go with what you used. Any change? Avoid it.
Regardless of brand, inks are going to be less lightfast than other pigments unfortunately.
Exactly what I wanted to say. Thanks
Is this info pertinent to UV Resin? And, by the way, do appreciate the effort you took to produce this video. Is very helpful.
Thanks so much for watching and for taking the time to comment! This information is definitely for epoxy resin - I would think it would work for UV resin as well, but it's best to check with the manufacturer of the UV resin you're using so you know for sure. I would also do a little test anytime you're using a new type of colorant, just to make sure you know exactly what type of results to expect. Hope that helps!
I've been wondering if I could use golden fluids in resin to slightly tint ... Just checking with water how much I'd need to make it just a slight colour but still transparent so I can see the flowers and glitter.
Most acrylic paints mix in well. Do not add any water to your resin mixture or you will end up with a cloudy mess. Acrylic paints often make more of an opaque finish, our ResinTints will give a beautiful translucent colour to your resin.
@@Artresin oh that's awesome. No, no I didn't add any water as I know that it's not meant to be added at all. I added the paint to water just to test what it would look like if I added it to resin. It worked by adding the golden fluids to the resin but I needed a few more drops then what I did with the water as the resin is a completely different consistency then water.
Thank you!
Thanks a bunch
❤❤❤😊what colorant are the best for UV resin please????HELP😅
Hi there! All of these recommendations are for ArtResin, which is an epoxy resin. It's best to check with the manufacturer of the UV Resin you're using to see what types of colorants they recommend and what amounts are compatible with their formula :)
Thank you very much But It's very Cold is interesting
Very informative on various resin colorants, thank you!
Thank you!!
Can i mix mica powdere and acrylic paint both to achieve opaque and glittery effects?
Yes, you can use mica and acrylic. We always like to test a small amount first as different paints can have different effects, but in general yes--give it a shot!!
Thanks for sharing !
hi, I'm still very new to epoxy. I'm going to do a study and I want to get a very dark and matte sieh. Can you give me a colorant code that you can recommend in this regard.
We find that using acrylic paint as a colourant gives a very saturated colour, it also tends to result in a less glossy finish. Its a good idea to test first as different acrylic paints can act differently. Remember to add less than 6% of any colourant to avoid affecting the cure.
Hello, would ArtResin be suitable for applying a finishing coat to clay items, like cups and flowerpots? Similarly to varnish
You could :) you would want to apply it in thin coats with a brush.
Thanks very informative video
lm new to all this l did started by found coastets but my question is how do l clean the tools?? and my hands .l washed with soap still messy
Have a look at our blog on how to clean up for some great tips: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/how-to-clean-up-epoxy-resin?_pos=1&_sid=5f22cc093&_ss=r
What about poster colors can they be used for resin?
You sure can! It usually is water based so just add accordingly to get your desired shade :)
Hi, I am new to all things resin. After watching numerous RUclips channels I hear a lot of them say that alcohol inks are not recommended as they fade very quickly. I am very confused as you recommend them. What is the correct advice please
Hi Norma - thank you for the great question, and yes, all the information out there can make things confusing.
The most important thing to note is alcohol inks are made with dye based colorants, which is are less lightfast than pigments. Like many art materials, they can fade with prolonged exposure to sunlight.
However, the brand and quality can make a huge difference. ArtResin's inks (and other high quality brands like Piñata) use lightfast dyes. This not only results in a really deep saturated colour, but it really helps to reduce fading over time. I use ArtResin inks and Piñata, but bought I bought a popular, inexpensive brand from Amazon to compare and the difference in colour is significant! Not only do lesser quality dyes promote fading, but the inks can change colour over time too - purples turning to brown etc. It comes down to the lightfastness and quality of raw materials.
It's important to note too that many white inks and metallic inks are made with pigment. That's why the white is used as a "sinker" because the pigment makes it heavier and able to drive the dye based colored ink down into the resin. But again, not all brands are. ArtResin's white is pigment based, as is Piñata's white and their metallics too. It's best to check with each brand to read the specs for their inks.
Like with any art, it's best to keep alcohol ink out of direct sunlight to avoid UV damage. For alcohol ink on Yupo, you can apply a Kamar varnish first (this will seal the inks without causing them to bleed) and then a UV sealant spray, as well as the resin to help protect it.
Hope that helps!
I don't like how fast most white resins cure, but I'm making dolls so clear is a little off from what I want. What can I add to make it opaque? Can I do a drop of acrylic paint? My sample size is two brands. I want a long pot life, but an opaque finish.
Yes, you can use a bit of acrylic paint, but make sure you use one that is highly pigmented so you don't need a lot. I would do some little tests first to see which white colorant or white acrylic paint gives you the results you want. Because acrylic paint is water based, I would stay away from white paint that is too fluid - it can react with the resin and cause it to become thick.
You could also try white pigment powder (not mica powder - which is sparkly). There are also white pigment paste designed for ocean art waves that create a nice, opaque white.
Hope that helps!
Hi I made a Gryffindor and Slytherin badge which are Gold and Silver. the resin cured and they look awesome however the colour didn't tun out well. I painted them with a mixture of pigment powder, paint medium/varnish and mod podge (matte) I made is this OK to put on cured varnish?
cheers
Yes you can put ArtResin over a cured varnish. Water based varnish is best as you may have trouble if an oil based one is not fully cure.
Very informative
Can you apply resin with a paint brush?
Ya but you’ll have to throw out the brush after!
@@Artresin does it come out smooth?
@@rasheada578 yes, ArtResin will self level once applied so most of the brush strokes will even out.
Thanks for this amazing video 😍
Can I just use any paint or has to be alcohol paint
Hi can you use food coloring or acrylic paint?
You can use acrylic paint as a colourant, as far as food colouring goes--we did not find it a good choice. Not only is the dye in the food colouring not very lightfast and will fade out easily, often food colourants are set in water and do not mix in well. It is definitely worth testing on your own on a small amount first to see what works for you.
if you paint epoxy resin with acrylic will it stay see through?
Excellent explanation without becoming a brand commercial!
My deep pour resin (72 hours curing time) reacted very badly to acrylic paint. It boiled up and fully cured in 45 minutes. I demolded it from my skull mold and it looks like lava rock. 😅
oh wow! It's always good to test new ingredients first to ensure they work for you. In this case it sounds like your resin flash cured which may be entirely unrelated to the addition of the acrylic paint, or it could have been something in the paint that made the resin overheat.
I know this is an older video, but I found it to be very informative and clear. I will be looking at your other videos, but if you haven't done one on bubbles under the lip of molds, I could sure use some help there. Keep up the great work and thank you!
Thank you so much! Yes, when we filmed it, resin paste wasn't really much of a thing, so too bad this is missing. We could have done a whole section on ocean waves :). Maybe we'll film a part 2.
Thanks for the video idea - I'll add it to my list! In the meantime, I know some artists spritz alcohol on their molds before adding the resin to it. And after you pour, you can also run a small tool around the rim to release bubbles.. something like a toothpick, but not as pointy or your molds will get scratched. I really find warming the resin helps in reducing bubbles, pouring really slowly, and pouring against the side of the mold (almost like when you pour beer against the side of the glass to reduce foam).
Hope that helps!
Are metallic paint and mica paint the same type of paint?
Hi there - it's hard for me to say without seeing both products, but I would say they are two different things.
Mica refers to ground mica, which is a mineral that gives a specific pearlescent effect. Ground mica can be added to pigment powder to create "mica powder" and can be added to different types of paint or ink.
Metallic paint may have other elements in it to provide a metallic look - and it's not always pearlescent like mica is.
Thank you!
Can you use RV resin with these color resintint
I am not familiar with RV resin, but ResinTint is compatible with most epoxy resin brands. It is always a good idea to test a small amount first to be sure you get the results you want :)
Thank you. I tried dye-based ink refills (like for stamp pads). I found that if I mix it in with the resin/hardener already mixed and stirred well, it worked fine. However, if I just poured the mixed resin into my mold and then tried to do a polka-dot effect with the ink, it seemed to do okay until I removed from the mold. The ink went through the resin and left holes (so the ink poured out the holes when I removed the pieces and I got inky fingers). Lesson learned, only use dye based ink if you stir it well into the resin/hardener mix and then pour. Question: my hardener has turned yellow-ish; is it still okay to use? The resin still is clear.
Hi Dahia, the yellowing you are seeing is due to oxidization. We recommend using ArtResin within 12 months of the date of manufacture and within 6 months after opening for the optimal clarity. You can use the yellowed hardener in applications over dark backgrounds or when tinting a darker colour. Have a look at our blog: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/what-can-you-do-with-yellowed-hardener-and-resin?_pos=7&_sid=729855e7b&_ss=r