🛻Thanks for watching! Here are some other RAM videos you might be interested in! Change the oil on a dodge ram 3500 ruclips.net/video/MEiKe8ZKBO0/видео.html Change the front brake pads and rotors 2018 Dodge ram 3500 Duely ruclips.net/video/o7f7HjkrOqU/видео.html How to change the Air Filter 2015 Dodge ram 1500 ruclips.net/video/D47OTKT--GA/видео.html 2009-2018 Dodge Ram Transmission Fluid & Filter Change ruclips.net/video/QReFPez1njw/видео.html
Glad to help! Repair shops and dealerships need to make money too! But we wanted to be able to help people save money who can make it happen themselves! :D!
I was wondering the same thing... just seems like he used it as an extra hole to improve drain flow 🤣 GL getting an answer on a video from 3 years ago :/
I reckon you'd fill through the inspection hole with the fill plug out. Once it's level there, plug it all up. Never met a diff that wanted to be filled to the site glass/inspection port
@@alexarmstrong9239 No I am pretty sure that you don’t use the fill plug in this case but maybe it was used in diffs that didn’t have a built in sight hole on the cover. You could never remove the sight plug if you filled to the fill plug because the fluid would just pour out as the sight hole if far below the fill plug.
Some people don't have the "Inspection Port" So I showed both, but also. I done did a mess up and ripped one of those plugs up soooooo badly I had to drive so far to the dealer to get one haha. Bad times.
tim c it should be about 7-10 inches up higher than the drain plug to the right and toward the front side of the differential when your looking at the drain plug.
My 2017 ram 1500 big horn 4x4 5.7 owner's manual recommend 75W90 I noticed you were using the 75w140 why is that different shouldn't they all have the same in the manual.
2010 ram 1500 does not have a drain plug. It only has a rubber fill plug. To drain, you either need to remove the diff cover or use a siphon pump. I believe they didn't use a drain plug until 2012 on the 1500
Yes they’re indifferent. Some mechanics will tell you to use the actual fill hole to save the inspection port for inspections. It’s also harder to fill from a bottle into the inspection hole w/o a pump. If you’re careful with the rubber you can use the inspection port to fill and check. It’s also a great thing to remove to allow fluid to escape, a ‘carb’, creating a vacuum with the coinciding drain hole when opened. Opening either the fill or inspection is I think crucial as it will put more power behind fluid escaping, hopefully grabbing all sediment.
Don’t know if it matters at this point as you may have already done the service. But there’s no harm in having the friction modifiers if you don’t have a lsd. I’d just buy a gear lube with it already added and call it a day.
Hi Blair. I have a 2018 Ram 1500 tradesman. I have only put 20,000 miles on it. I want my truck to last. What is too soon for me to change my rear diff fluid and my automatic transmission fluid? Great videos so far, keep up the good work. I'm also still only doing conventional oil, any synthetic brand oil you would choose over the rest?
follow your owners manual, the 8 speed trans. is a closed transmission and youll need special tools to change or flush the fluid. i would say inspect your diff. fluid before changing it around 50k miles
Hey John, thank you for commenting. Personally I would follow the owners service manual for when to service your transmission/ diffs/ transfer case. And I think engine oil is more important to service the oil more (Frequency of change intervals) than the oil itself!
I assume your trans is the ZF 8HP70 model? ZF recommends to change every 50k-75k for normal use. I know the manual says it’s lifetime fluid but that’s a crock of shit. I just did my 8 speed service a couple months ago. The filter is integral to the pan so that’s needs replaced as one. I also bought the OEM ZF 8 fluid. The procedure for filling to make sure level is correct is a bit involved but not too hard. I’d just say make sure you do your research. Lots of videos out there but I found many either disregarded steps or skipped steps that were clearly stated in the ZF repair flow chart that’s found on their site.
If you have the 8 speed ZF transmission, change it between 50K and 60K. Ram says either never or 100k depending on who you talk to. The maker of the transmission, ZF, says 50k-60k. The procedure can be found on their website. If you are handy and can follow instructions to the letter then you can do it. Be sure to use their fluid or Ram's fluid (it is the same fluid in a mopar container). I did a lot of research on this. Several RUclips videos exist. This transmission is in several Chrysler/jeep/ram/BMW/Jaguar/Maserati/and some Hondas. If you do it yourself it will cost you about $340. If you have Ram do it the cost is $900-$1000. You need 6 quarts of fluid and a new pan because it contains the filter built in to the pan. Use the Mopar pan because there are a lot of cheap knock offs. The pan comes with the filter built in, 13 new bolts, new fill plug, and gasket. I did mine a month ago and it took about 3 hours start to finish. Be sure to level the transmission which means jacking the back end of the truck up higher than the front.
@@Revitauto I thought that MS-8985 doesn't come with the limited-slip additive. On Mopar's website (link below), it states the limited-slip rear axels require the limited-slip additive on top of the gear lubricant. Can you clarify this? Thanks in advance. Love the videos. www.mopar.com/en-us/care/dynamic-manuals/viewer.html?id=77&topics=GUID-623B2C13-D70A-4E48-85C2-3B2B12601110&parentTopic=GUID-D865386B-4C57-4EA2-A23C-939C1126A708&tocID=65 In case the link doesn't work: "Rear Axle - 1500 Models We recommend you use MOPAR Synthetic Gear Lubricant SAE 75W-140 (MS-8985). Limited-Slip Rear Axles require the addition of 5 oz. (148 ml) MOPAR Limited Slip Additive (MS-10111)."
@@mccaerospaceengineer2734 Thank you for putting all the information together I am going to add that into the video description and make a call to the dealership tomorrow to talk to my parts guy. Then I am going to ask how many rear ends that dealership has had to do!?
Great video Rev. Weren't you on Andy's show? Anyways, you make it easy peasy to change my '15 Ram 1500 front and rear diff. I think the torque values are in German, Good-N-Tight..... Thanks!
Thanks! And yes I was! Helping Andy make RUclips videos now actually! Will have a RUclips channel coming out and in the next month will have junkyardempire.tv up!
Not all rear covers have that plug. So we were just showing how you could do it if that was equipped but most people will be using the top plug not in the diff cover.
Some models don’t have that rubber grommet plug on the rear differential cover so I wanted to show people the option both ways! Let me know if your rear differential cover has that plug too!
@@Revitauto I finished a week ago. Went smoothly. Only my 2013 ram's rear diff doesn't have the top screw hole that the ram in your vid has. Just the rubber plug fill/check hole and the bottom drain hole screw...I used red rtv on bottom drain screw just like you showed in vid...this was an easier job thanks to your vid here...👍 Thanks again!
Nope never was an apprentice just bought books and learned myself sorry we didn’t put the tool size in there but when you figure it out please respond so I can add it to the video description!
Hey Jorge, I do not have that part number, I purchased all the products in this video directly from the Ram dealer. Best of luck! Happy Motoring -Blair
Not every vehicle has the site plug on the rear cover like this truck. I also always remove the fill plug first! It’s typical of that one to get seized and stuck. That way you don’t drain your fluid and get stuck unable to drive away because the full plug can’t get removed! I hope this helps!
Some Vehicles have that rear plug, while other vehicles do not. Same make model etc. So it shows you how to do it regardless of which rear differential cover you have!
Your MSRP sheet will say if you have an anti-spin rear differential or not. If so, then you need the additive. There’s a website you can put your VIN in that will pull I’m the original sheet if you do not have it. I can’t remember the website but try a google search. As for the fluid, I personally would only use what Mopar recommends to avoid any issues.
Mine doesn’t either but in the maintenance manual it says nothing about having to add an addictive but for the rear it does. I don’t know if they offer a limited slip in the front differential.
If your vehicle has a limited slip then do it! I have had conflicting information on if this fluid from factory has the appropriate friction modifiers So we just added more!
A bit confused, you said to make sure you are able to loosen and remove the top fill plug so you can be sure you are able to fill it after you remove the drain plug to drain it. But when you went to fill it, you fill it through the sight plug but not the fill plug, why is that?
Not every dodge has that plug on the rear of the differential cover. So if you get under your truck and don't see it. Remove the fill plug first. BECAUSE, if you drain all the fluid, but cant refill it then you are really in trouble. Why would you not be able to remove the fill plug? Well, the fill plug is not based and soaking in gear oil all of its life, so corrosion and rust set in, and sometimes you need a bigger wrench and don't have it! The drain plug is always in gear oil so it has less of a chance of getting frozen.!
When I went to the dealer that is the fluid they told me to put in based on the vin. Im not sure if this unit was a posi, or not. But when I was reading the bottle it said that it was for use with LSD.
I put my 2000 ram in 4low and when i put it back in 2high the driveshaft and knuckle just spin and dont engage the wheels. Im fucked and dont even know where to start to fix it
Thanks. I just changed my fluid, before seeing your video, and used the rubber plug to check level and refill. Did not remove the threaded top plug at all.
Glad it was helpful. We would appreciate it if you subscribed to help us grow and continue creating repair videos to help everyone. Happy motoring!@@scottrangus4699
@2:57 "I like to use my 3/8" ratchet extension to hold my plug in place while I put the RTV around the threads. That way I make sure I have a really even coat, I don't get it everywhere, and I won't have any leaks".. @3:41 .. proceeds to get RTV all over his ratchet head and 3/8" extension.
So, I go to the parts dept. and ask for differential fluid and they all bust up laughing at me. They said that they dont sell differential fluid, but sell gear oil. Turns out that my 2018 Ram 1500 takes 75w 140 gear oil. Thanks for making me look like an effen fool. Unsubscribed.
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Change the oil on a dodge ram 3500
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Great video. People like you significantly help us become self sufficient and not relay on the rip off artists at the dealership. Thank you!
Glad to help! Repair shops and dealerships need to make money too! But we wanted to be able to help people save money who can make it happen themselves! :D!
If your filling through the sight hole, you don't need to crack the top fill plug correct? Just the bottom drain plug.
That's what I was wondering why he even bothered is there something I missed lol
I fill thru the top hole till it drips out of the sight hole to insure I have it filled it properly. Just sayin....
I don't have an upper plug, just drain plug and rubber sight plug.
@@TheAstraeuss same for my 1500 its a 4.7 not the hemi so idk if that could be why
I have a 2013 Ram 1500 & I’ve never done a rear differential oil change. Great video, after watching, I believe I might can do one now! LOL. THKS
Thanks for this video, I’ve been working on trucks from the 70s 80s 90s. Now I have my 2019 ram I’m ready to do this. You explained this very well.
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Great video. My first fluid change was done at by the dealer. Now I know why the fill plug had red compound around it !
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Thanks for the video. That was actually very easy to do. I feel good about servicing my differential oil. Peace of mind
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Awesome vid what is the torque specs for the drain plug? Thanks
You won’t have to worry bout that ratchet leakin with all the RTV on it. Lol. I usually end up with it all over my face. Awesome video
Hey sir I loved the video! I’ve never serviced a diff before but I feel pretty confident after seeing your video!
Great to hear! Let us know how it all worked out for you in the end! Happy Motoring-Blair
What about the recommended limited slip additive if you have a limited slip diff?
i was just under my truck , i did see the grommet on the rear diff cover but did not notice the fill plug.
Maybe a silly question but why do you have to remove the top threaded “fill” plug when you just fill it through the sight hole?
I was wondering the same thing... just seems like he used it as an extra hole to improve drain flow 🤣 GL getting an answer on a video from 3 years ago :/
I reckon you'd fill through the inspection hole with the fill plug out. Once it's level there, plug it all up. Never met a diff that wanted to be filled to the site glass/inspection port
@@alexarmstrong9239 No I am pretty sure that you don’t use the fill plug in this case but maybe it was used in diffs that didn’t have a built in sight hole on the cover. You could never remove the sight plug if you filled to the fill plug because the fluid would just pour out as the sight hole if far below the fill plug.
Why even remove the fill plug if you’re going to use the “inspection port” to fill it?
Yeah lol. My 2011 doesn’t have an inspection plug anyways. So I fill until it starts coming out of the fill hole.
Some people don't have the "Inspection Port" So I showed both, but also. I done did a mess up and ripped one of those plugs up soooooo badly I had to drive so far to the dealer to get one haha. Bad times.
I have a 2015 and unless I’m losing my mind or eye sight or both I don’t have a fill plug. Am I missing something?
tim c it should be about 7-10 inches up higher than the drain plug to the right and toward the front side of the differential when your looking at the drain plug.
@@TheBowpipe6 HAHA dont lose your mind! Did you ever find it?
Correct me if I’m wrong, but you already sealed the fill hole . How do you know you have the proper amount of fluid
Well you made that look easy Sir ! 😎👍
Glad it was helpful. We would appreciate it if you subscribed to help us grow and continue creating repair videos to help everyone. Happy motoring!
@@Revitauto I sure will...I thought I did lol
@@FendergtrJam Thanks 💪
My 2017 ram 1500 big horn 4x4 5.7 owner's manual recommend 75W90 I noticed you were using the 75w140 why is that different shouldn't they all have the same in the manual.
75W90 is for the front diff.
@@charliec5653 and what about rear?
@@--emt 75W140
Yes that's correct
For the front and rear they recommend 75W-90 with additives mopar
Teflon tape is prob better for the plug bolts. Rtv seems too messy unless you’re taking the cover off
Hey! Teflon tape is not rated for oil fluids, which is why I use RTV
Shouldn't there be an additive as well for the Sure Grip diff or is it already in the gear oil?
Only if you have the Limited Slip diff
2010 ram 1500 does not have a drain plug. It only has a rubber fill plug. To drain, you either need to remove the diff cover or use a siphon pump. I believe they didn't use a drain plug until 2012 on the 1500
Is the fill plug and inspection port the same level?
Yes they’re indifferent. Some mechanics will tell you to use the actual fill hole to save the inspection port for inspections. It’s also harder to fill from a bottle into the inspection hole w/o a pump.
If you’re careful with the rubber you can use the inspection port to fill and check. It’s also a great thing to remove to allow fluid to escape, a ‘carb’, creating a vacuum with the coinciding drain hole when opened. Opening either the fill or inspection is I think crucial as it will put more power behind fluid escaping, hopefully grabbing all sediment.
@revinauto could you tell me what type of oil you used? Please and thanks.
What about adding “limited slip additives” the manual says that I wanna do it but don’t wanna forget anything and mess up
Don’t know if it matters at this point as you may have already done the service. But there’s no harm in having the friction modifiers if you don’t have a lsd. I’d just buy a gear lube with it already added and call it a day.
Hi Blair. I have a 2018 Ram 1500 tradesman. I have only put 20,000 miles on it. I want my truck to last. What is too soon for me to change my rear diff fluid and my automatic transmission fluid? Great videos so far, keep up the good work. I'm also still only doing conventional oil, any synthetic brand oil you would choose over the rest?
follow your owners manual, the 8 speed trans. is a closed transmission and youll need special tools to change or flush the fluid. i would say inspect your diff. fluid before changing it around 50k miles
Hey John, thank you for commenting. Personally I would follow the owners service manual for when to service your transmission/ diffs/ transfer case. And I think engine oil is more important to service the oil more (Frequency of change intervals) than the oil itself!
I assume your trans is the ZF 8HP70 model? ZF recommends to change every 50k-75k for normal use. I know the manual says it’s lifetime fluid but that’s a crock of shit. I just did my 8 speed service a couple months ago. The filter is integral to the pan so that’s needs replaced as one. I also bought the OEM ZF 8 fluid. The procedure for filling to make sure level is correct is a bit involved but not too hard. I’d just say make sure you do your research. Lots of videos out there but I found many either disregarded steps or skipped steps that were clearly stated in the ZF repair flow chart that’s found on their site.
If you have the 8 speed ZF transmission, change it between 50K and 60K. Ram says either never or 100k depending on who you talk to. The maker of the transmission, ZF, says 50k-60k. The procedure can be found on their website. If you are handy and can follow instructions to the letter then you can do it. Be sure to use their fluid or Ram's fluid (it is the same fluid in a mopar container). I did a lot of research on this. Several RUclips videos exist. This transmission is in several Chrysler/jeep/ram/BMW/Jaguar/Maserati/and some Hondas. If you do it yourself it will cost you about $340. If you have Ram do it the cost is $900-$1000. You need 6 quarts of fluid and a new pan because it contains the filter built in to the pan. Use the Mopar pan because there are a lot of cheap knock offs. The pan comes with the filter built in, 13 new bolts, new fill plug, and gasket. I did mine a month ago and it took about 3 hours start to finish. Be sure to level the transmission which means jacking the back end of the truck up higher than the front.
The description says 2.3 quarts but it looked like you added 3 quarts and possibly more so how many quarts did it take
I didn't hear you mention anything about the slip additive. I think some fluids come with it in there but most don't.
Hey Big Jay, I got the fluid from the Dealer which has all the slip additives required for the rear diff! Thanks for checking in!
@@Revitauto I thought that MS-8985 doesn't come with the limited-slip additive. On Mopar's website (link below), it states the limited-slip rear axels require the limited-slip additive on top of the gear lubricant. Can you clarify this? Thanks in advance. Love the videos.
www.mopar.com/en-us/care/dynamic-manuals/viewer.html?id=77&topics=GUID-623B2C13-D70A-4E48-85C2-3B2B12601110&parentTopic=GUID-D865386B-4C57-4EA2-A23C-939C1126A708&tocID=65
In case the link doesn't work:
"Rear Axle - 1500 Models
We recommend you use MOPAR Synthetic Gear Lubricant SAE 75W-140 (MS-8985). Limited-Slip Rear Axles require the addition of 5 oz. (148 ml) MOPAR Limited Slip Additive (MS-10111)."
@@mccaerospaceengineer2734 Thank you for putting all the information together I am going to add that into the video description and make a call to the dealership tomorrow to talk to my parts guy. Then I am going to ask how many rear ends that dealership has had to do!?
So if my cover doesn’t have a inspection plug or fill plug. Can’t I just use the top plug on passenger side to fill? It is a used truck to me. TIA
did i miss something!!! something offf here. why removing the the fill plug if you are going to use sight hole?
Great video Rev. Weren't you on Andy's show? Anyways, you make it easy peasy to change my '15 Ram 1500 front and rear diff. I think the torque values are in German, Good-N-Tight..... Thanks!
Thanks! And yes I was! Helping Andy make RUclips videos now actually! Will have a RUclips channel coming out and in the next month will have junkyardempire.tv up!
Did you add the addictive in the gear oil we did not see you added
Some manufacturers already premix the ls additive, such as Redline. I love their oil and they premix the additive so none is needed.
what size allen key did u use for the drain and fill plugs? they seems so big
14mm
My 2017 does not have a top plug. Just the rubber one.
What's the torque specs for fill and drain plug?
This helped me make this process quick and easy thanks!
Awesome! Happy Motoring! - Blair
I have a 6 inch lift on my 2010 RAM 1500. Do i need to raise the rear axle to make up for the angle when filling?
are you supposed to add rtv to plugs ?
i dont do that.
Does it have to be mopar rtv and fluid or can it be another brand
Do you have to rtv the plugs and if so does it need to set up before adding the heat oil?
Gear*
Don't you need to add friction modifier for lsd?
Just curious what the point of the top plug is? You drain it from the bottom plug and fill from the cover side at the sight inspection plug.
Not all rear covers have that plug.
So we were just showing how you could do it if that was equipped but most people will be using the top plug not in the diff cover.
Even with the Mopar oil, aren't you supposed to add their anti-slip additive? I didn't see you put that in.
This must’ve just been an open diff truck
What was the point of taking the fill plug off first if you wernt going to fill thru that plug
Some models don’t have that rubber grommet plug on the rear differential cover so I wanted to show people the option both ways!
Let me know if your rear differential cover has that plug too!
Um, mine does not have that fill port. But I have the 2 14mm plus. Not sure what to do.
Can you send a photo and description to info@RevitAuto.com
I have a 2017 and don’t see a fill plug. Am I blind or is there another diff out there with different characteristics ?
I think that there are other types of diffs that I have not seen yet that have a different location for the fill. Did you ever find yours?
@@Revitauto per other comments, the way to go is to fill through the sight inspection hole
2009 1500. I definitely do not have these plugs on it
That is true. Only front plug
I have 2010, no plugs either.
Mine has a plug
If you don’t have the plugs you can just take the front cover off, you’ll need rtv to reseal it
Thank you!
Gonna tackle this soon!
Enjoyed your other vids too...all good references...thank you for posting .
Subbed....
AWESOME! Let me know how it all worked out!
@@Revitauto I finished a week ago.
Went smoothly. Only my 2013 ram's rear diff doesn't have the top screw hole that the ram in your vid has.
Just the rubber plug fill/check hole and the bottom drain hole screw...I used red rtv on bottom drain screw just like you showed in vid...this was an easier job thanks to your vid here...👍
Thanks again!
I admire your bravery in touching gear oil with no gloves.😂😂😂😂😂 The smell alone is unbearable
I got used to it 😬
@@Revitauto thats hardcore 😂😂
Very informative. Great video.
Glad it was helpful. We would appreciate it if you subscribed to help us grow and continue creating repair videos to help everyone. Happy motoring!
The size of the hex wrench to remove the plug is????? Must have not taken 1st year apprenticeship where they give tool training.
Nope never was an apprentice just bought books and learned myself sorry we didn’t put the tool size in there but when you figure it out please respond so I can add it to the video description!
What about friction additive? I have 11 longhorn 2×4. They say I have to add it.
You will want to add friction modifier just as you were adding in the fluid in this video !
@@Revitauto Thank you. Just wanted to.be sure.
@@radicalttc of course. Always good to double check. I’ll be sure to make items like this more clear in the future!
The silicone RTV is for high temperature? What part number is?
Hey Jorge, I do not have that part number, I purchased all the products in this video directly from the Ram dealer. Best of luck! Happy Motoring -Blair
only three quarts of lube correct?? Mopower lube
I use high temp silicone on the paper gasket ... is that a good idea?
Yeah I do that a lot to!
Just make sure it works with gear oil.
Yeah I do that a lot to!
Just make sure it works with gear oil.
Some differential covers have a magnet on the inside to catch any metal wear particles in the fluid, does Ram have this feature?
I do not know, or recall! I cleaned everything up and hope I should or mentioned that in the video!
why would you need the fill plug off when you didnt use it to fill?
Not every vehicle has the site plug on the rear cover like this truck. I also always remove the fill plug first! It’s typical of that one to get seized and stuck. That way you don’t drain your fluid and get stuck unable to drive away because the full plug can’t get removed!
I hope this helps!
What was the point of taking out the top fill plug and not using it?
Some Vehicles have that rear plug, while other vehicles do not. Same make model etc. So it shows you how to do it regardless of which rear differential cover you have!
What size hex socket are you using
Thanks for the video
You bet, Happy motoring- Blair
My 12 ram Rt does not have a level check plug
Thanks very helpful
Very helpful.thanks
Glad it was helpful. We would appreciate it if you subscribed to help us grow and continue creating repair videos to help everyone. Happy motoring!
How do you know if you need the special additive and do you have to use Mopar? I saw a Valvoline gear oil that had the additive in it!
Your MSRP sheet will say if you have an anti-spin rear differential or not. If so, then you need the additive. There’s a website you can put your VIN in that will pull I’m the original sheet if you do not have it. I can’t remember the website but try a google search. As for the fluid, I personally would only use what Mopar recommends to avoid any issues.
Thanks Matt I will try that!
@@mattwenc4984 I have my MSRP sheet and it does say I have an Anti-spin diff. It doesn't mention the front!
Mine doesn’t either but in the maintenance manual it says nothing about having to add an addictive but for the rear it does. I don’t know if they offer a limited slip in the front differential.
I love seeing people help one another! Thanks for being awesome! Happy Motoring- Blair
Great video
Thank you so much!
How would one know if the fluid is too low?
What are the torque specs? I didn’t see in the description
Based on the dealership it is 24 ft lbs.
Do you not add limited slip additive
If your vehicle has a limited slip then do it! I have had conflicting information on if this fluid from factory has the appropriate friction modifiers
So we just added more!
Didn't find the torque spec in the description.
I will get back to you asap thank you for noting that there was no spec in the description
Looking for the Torque specs but they are still not in the description.
A bit confused, you said to make sure you are able to loosen and remove the top fill plug so you can be sure you are able to fill it after you remove the drain plug to drain it. But when you went to fill it, you fill it through the sight plug but not the fill plug, why is that?
Not every dodge has that plug on the rear of the differential cover. So if you get under your truck and don't see it. Remove the fill plug first. BECAUSE, if you drain all the fluid, but cant refill it then you are really in trouble.
Why would you not be able to remove the fill plug?
Well, the fill plug is not based and soaking in gear oil all of its life, so corrosion and rust set in, and sometimes you need a bigger wrench and don't have it!
The drain plug is always in gear oil so it has less of a chance of getting frozen.!
@@Revitauto I see. So if my truck have the top fill plug then it’s probably best to fill it there rather than the sight plug then?
Why no limit slip fluid?
When I went to the dealer that is the fluid they told me to put in based on the vin. Im not sure if this unit was a posi, or not. But when I was reading the bottle it said that it was for use with LSD.
Don't think the extra drain plug came out until 2011. 2009-2010 you have to take the covers off.
I put my 2000 ram in 4low and when i put it back in 2high the driveshaft and knuckle just spin and dont engage the wheels. Im fucked and dont even know where to start to fix it
Email a video to info@revitauto.com
5:46
"Thats the bottle not me"
At 5:43, dude unloads an epic fart
Sounds like diarea after lol
Why bother removing the threaded top fill plug? Why not just use the sight plug hole for filling, after draining from the lower plug???
No everyone has that rubber piece on the back of the diff cover, so I wanted to show it for those people who don't have that.
Thanks. I just changed my fluid, before seeing your video, and used the rubber plug to check level and refill. Did not remove the threaded top plug at all.
Glad it was helpful. We would appreciate it if you subscribed to help us grow and continue creating repair videos to help everyone. Happy motoring!@@scottrangus4699
My 2010 doesnt have any of those plugs on it.
That is strange, can you send photos and a video? What model trans and motor do you have?
@2:57 "I like to use my 3/8" ratchet extension to hold my plug in place while I put the RTV around the threads. That way I make sure I have a really even coat, I don't get it everywhere, and I won't have any leaks".. @3:41 .. proceeds to get RTV all over his ratchet head and 3/8" extension.
Looks like my 2010 Mango Tango
I hope that this is the actual name of the paint code.
OK. Got it👍
My 2010 1500 Laramie does NOT have either plugs drain or fill you need to change the years this video references to....
People love telling people what to do :D! What engine transmission do you have? Are you 4x4 or 2wd? Did you not find any drain or or fill plugs?
my 2010 does not have drain plug. you have to remove the cover. your video does not apply
Teflon tape much cleaner. I remove the cover paint it and clean the inside and use a lublocker gasket.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Why not just cut all the heads instead of screwing and unscrewing? Otherwise great vid
I like to have as many caps as possible to save them for other bottles! Glad this video helped! Happy Motoring-Blair
Out of the whole damn video that's what you got out of it? SMDH!🤣🤣🤦♂️
That rear end needs some metamucil.
This will help stay away from the dodge dealership, what a rip off!!
How much did the dealership want to charge!
@@Revitauto they told me 400 dollars
@@mrjesseg9937 yup my truck is there right now for exhaust manifold work. told $200 for each dif.
To bad its not Gold Flakes! 😆
I could use some real good flakes for this Xmas season!
So, I go to the parts dept. and ask for differential fluid and they all bust up laughing at me. They said that they dont sell differential fluid, but sell gear oil. Turns out that my 2018 Ram 1500 takes 75w 140 gear oil. Thanks for making me look like an effen fool. Unsubscribed.
Same shit lol
This is NOT applicable to 2009-2011 Ram 1500s.!!!!!!!!!
This was a 2010 ram, I think there are different rears on some of these trucks.
how many quarts does it take
HOW MANY QUARTS!!!!!!!!??????????