Dude, that was a great watch, I enjoyed watching how to set up the isolated areas, that is something that has eluded me as far as using it on a layout, but on my next layout, which is DC, this is the perfect solution. Will follow your progress, all the best n take care. Brian @ The Angels
Nice, thank you very much! I didn't go into too much detail about the actual wiring plan as there's plenty of resources online, but the key thing is the placing of the isolating fishplates. They only need to go into 1 of the rails (the shed line has 1 unbroken rail from the point, with the second rail cut and isolating plates inserted) but it's essential that they're all on the same rail. Some places (like back to back points) might need both rails isolated. I found it helpful to draw a paper plan to get it clear in my mind. Good luck with your layout!
@@FortheLoveofSteam thanks for that, you make a great point, the isolators are key, and using them on the correct rails. Your work has inspired me to dig a bit deeper. 🤘
Great video I am new to 009 and a little confused regarding your wiring from the switch to the frog so that it is live all the time I understand that the switch changes the polarity of the frog. But with other track you snip the connecting wires connecting the heels to the closure rails. With 009 track you can’t do this. How did you get around this. Thanks
Hi, thanks for commenting. This is only my second layout build, so I'm figuring stuff out as I go. Some people will isolate the moving point blades from the frog, and then hardwire each blade to its adjoining rail. This prevents shorts in case metal wheels touch the wrong blade, which I believe is more of an issue with DCC than with DC. On my points, both blades are electrically connected to the frog, and so they both switch polarity as the points change. This is how the Peco points are designed to work, and the recommended method for DC control in the new issue of the 009 society handbook. Hope this helps!
Oh, very nice! As a non-driver it's a bit awkward to get there from the wrong side of Manchester, but I'm hoping to get along to a couple of those meetings later in the year.
Just found this and have enjoyed Parts 1 and 2. Shall watch out for Part 3.
Thank you for watching and commenting, it's much appreciated!
Enjoyed watching this, like the way you control the points.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! It was a definite case of trial and error on the points, but so far they seem to be working ok!
Dude, that was a great watch, I enjoyed watching how to set up the isolated areas, that is something that has eluded me as far as using it on a layout, but on my next layout, which is DC, this is the perfect solution. Will follow your progress, all the best n take care. Brian @ The Angels
Nice, thank you very much! I didn't go into too much detail about the actual wiring plan as there's plenty of resources online, but the key thing is the placing of the isolating fishplates. They only need to go into 1 of the rails (the shed line has 1 unbroken rail from the point, with the second rail cut and isolating plates inserted) but it's essential that they're all on the same rail. Some places (like back to back points) might need both rails isolated. I found it helpful to draw a paper plan to get it clear in my mind. Good luck with your layout!
@@FortheLoveofSteam thanks for that, you make a great point, the isolators are key, and using them on the correct rails. Your work has inspired me to dig a bit deeper. 🤘
Great video I am new to 009 and a little confused regarding your wiring from the switch to the frog so that it is live all the time I understand that the switch changes the polarity of the frog. But with other track you snip the connecting wires connecting the heels to the closure rails. With 009 track you can’t do this. How did you get around this. Thanks
Hi, thanks for commenting. This is only my second layout build, so I'm figuring stuff out as I go. Some people will isolate the moving point blades from the frog, and then hardwire each blade to its adjoining rail. This prevents shorts in case metal wheels touch the wrong blade, which I believe is more of an issue with DCC than with DC. On my points, both blades are electrically connected to the frog, and so they both switch polarity as the points change. This is how the Peco points are designed to work, and the recommended method for DC control in the new issue of the 009 society handbook. Hope this helps!
Thanks that’s really helpful. Went 009 society meeting in St Helens on Saturday picked up some other useful pointers
Oh, very nice! As a non-driver it's a bit awkward to get there from the wrong side of Manchester, but I'm hoping to get along to a couple of those meetings later in the year.