@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 if you don't wind up swinging that engine in and out more than twice getting things ironed out I would be shocked. I think last engine conversion I did I had the engine in and out at least a half dozen times before it fit the way I wanted.
Hey Kiwi, you should give foam engine mockup’s a try, as they are much easier to work with. As they are a lot lighter than a cast iron, or cast aluminum block. Even the 3D printed blocks are lighter.
I'm glad you asked this question Flux-cored wire is known for its ability to weld in windy conditions and in areas without a clean environment. On the other hand, solid MIG wire is preferred for its smooth and consistent welds.
Interesting all the upgrade work your doing. Great to hear it start up when its all plumbed in. You looking upgrading the chassis rails to handle that power to stop any chassis twisting.
Very refreshing to get some professional quality Ford content showing quality cars and quality workmanship after being inundated with a flood of bush league mopar hackery on you tube. A person can only take so much of those guys trying to make a name for themselves featuring their fleets of butchered parts cars disguised as classics and muscle cars. Thank goodness for the adults on you tube like Kiwi
Bump steer curve by string diagram, as long as that works, the steering rack can indeed go anywhere. Great modifications to suit the Customer, Kiwi. I'd have removed the ignition and put four Jenvey 58DCO sidedrafts with hidden EDIS8 and reflashed XR8 EECV 103 pin. But I'm a Alan Moffat and Norm Beachy ATCC devotee. But that's a calibrated 600 HP engine combination...you buy the guarantee by not having to mess around with it. Have Cut Kiwis, Rejoyce 🥝✔️
Hi from Matamata! Great stuff, very classy metalwork in an area where a lot of people would not even notice. I suppose that is a good thing as if it looks factory it's a good job (at a minimum) Also, I have not seen that twin carb/intake setup before so would like you to explain a bit about it.Cheers
I can picture an early 1960’s Chrysler Long Ram intake curing your vertical clearance issue. Do you know any clever CAD designers with a 3D printer? That might still give you ductwork for the hood scoop.
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 I understand we did the same to an XP COUPE, put 429 KAASE in it. Keep up the good work mate. Loving the channel and seeing some old school workmanship
Shifting it back will be an advantage as far as weight distribution is concerned ( I suppose it's an iron block?). I've heard of plastic dummy engines being used to make things easier when experimenting with engine bay fitment, I wonder if there's a dummy FE ? , and if there is ,could you fit a specific intake to it? ,just wondering .Nice work Kiwi.🙂
Personally, I've never trusted bolting the engine lift plate to the carb studs. Just me I guess. I run chains from the intake bolts or head accessory bolt holes. I see a lot of people using the carb studs, but that's a hell of a lot of weight pulling on some 1/4" studs in aluminum...Again, just me...
Why does the engine sit so high? I have pictures of a 1968 Mustang with a FE 427 and CJ 428 with medium riser dual quad intake and it fits under the hood with that scoop.
Because it has TCI suspension with a front mounted steering rack ( mustang 2 style ). The rack is what necessitates the high mounting position of engine
Are these big heavy motors realy worth the extra work shortly you can get enough power out of a smaller motor a lot of extra weight to bugger up the handling all right in a truck but not a road car
WHY do retro mod guys go with these monster 500 or 600 HP motors? I'd love that car with a nice 289 or 302 at around 300 ponies! 500+ HP is race car driver stuff and hoping it will go somewhat straight....
Haven't you considered converting the engine to one that uses a dry oil sump?: ruclips.net/video/8xYLSJohDj4/видео.html Doing so should solve your hood-clearance issue, given that there would no longer be an oil pan which would interfere with what you're trying to achieve
That was an option we considered but its a pretty involved and expensive conversion. Plus the tank would have to go in the trunk along with all the plumbing.
The customer better have an open wallet! Lots of hours in that pony! Nice work!
He knows what he wants and he knows that good things take time 😎👍
Uncle Tony is right, you are an artist! This is excellent work Kiwi. By far some of the best work ive seen from an every day working man.
Thanks man and thanks for watching !!
Very great work Kiwi you are Amazing!
Thanks man!! Thanks for watching!!
Beautiful work Kiwi! It looks like it grew there--that 427 is a work of art!😎
Looking at how that fitted I am beginning to think the kit could work on an XW falcon. 😊
Yes it could !!👍😎
Great work Kiwi. Can’t wait to see how things underneath come together all the way back to the rear end. Looks great! 👍🏻
Thanks man and thanks for watching !!
That's quite the motor. Need a shoe horn that's for sure. It'll be nice car when it's done. Looking forward to the next one. 👍👍🙂🇨🇦
Put it in take it out put it in take it out disco Fe lady. In and out enough times and eventually you'll get it to fit.😎👍
It's a process man! 😎👍
That clears by enough, not more than enough, but enough. 😂
😎👍
Good stuff Kiwi!
Cheers mate!!
Looks good
Thanks man and thanks for watching!!
With that air cleaner, I'd cut the hood in that shape and use the scoop from a Boss 429 and call it done!
The customer is determined to use the 68 hood scoop!
Looking good real good kiwi hope he uses that hp !
I believe he will 😉
Awesome work kiwi. Love this content and everything that goes along with it. Youre a super craftsman and like the problem solving. 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🎩
Thanks man and thanks for watching!!
Another excellent job. FYI the video re-starts around 11:10
Yeah that's an oops 😬. Wonder if that means I can charge the customer twice🤔
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 or maybe your way to check to see who watches all the way to the end. @gold98gtp and I passed the test
🤣😂
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 if you don't wind up swinging that engine in and out more than twice getting things ironed out I would be shocked. I think last engine conversion I did I had the engine in and out at least a half dozen times before it fit the way I wanted.
Nice work Kiwi.
Thanks man and thanks for watching!!
I always me a little when I see a fastback being cut up.. but more power to the owner, its gonna be rad.
Yeah this is going to be a nice car for sure. 😎👍
It looks great! That car is going to be a monster killer!
Thanks man and thanks for watching!!
Just lowering and setting back the motor will help steering and braking. At 500 HP, the FE's not breakin a sweat. 🙂👍
Kiwi the surgeon !
Wish was a surgeon, I'd be making a lot more money😁 I do appreciate the sentiment though, thanks!
Hey Kiwi, you should give foam engine mockup’s a try, as they are much easier to work with. As they are a lot lighter than a cast iron, or cast aluminum block. Even the 3D printed blocks are lighter.
Impressive as always. Looks like Kev is laying down on the job though. 😛
Yeah the cold is getting to him for sure😁
Quoting the late Jimmy Buffett, “I wanna go where it’s warm!”
Always excellent! MIG or flux core? Thank you and your little bird.👍
I'm glad you asked this question
Flux-cored wire is known for its ability to weld in windy conditions and in areas without a clean environment. On the other hand, solid MIG wire is preferred for its smooth and consistent welds.
Nice work Kiwi as always
Thanks man and thanks for watching!!
Your patience, craftsmanship and work ethic are beyond words! Love your channel and projects. Speaking of projects - any updates on your Barracuda?
Interesting all the upgrade work your doing. Great to hear it start up when its all plumbed in. You looking upgrading the chassis rails to handle that power to stop any chassis twisting.
The front rails have been plated with 3/16" plate on all four sides to handle it👍
Very refreshing to get some professional quality Ford content showing quality cars and quality workmanship after being inundated with a flood of bush league mopar hackery on you tube. A person can only take so much of those guys trying to make a name for themselves featuring their fleets of butchered parts cars disguised as classics and muscle
cars. Thank goodness for the adults on you tube like Kiwi
Thanks man I'm glad you're enjoying it!!
Looks like she'll end up being a straight liner K!
She'll go round too!!
Second one I've seen you do the tci an rack seem to be the problem my 67 factory 390 to 427 had no problems !
It will bolt right in, won't take too long. It's a kit, naw its gonna be cool.
LOL. Yeah, bolt ins rarely bolt in ....
I came from UTG 😉
Welcome aboard man😎👍
Friggin Legit FoMoCo 🍕🍺
Cheers Nick!
Nice work.
It'd look cool with a long XY phase 3 shaker.
Yess!!
Ha mate here in Auss we call it a sump and a fffff bonnet
Bump steer curve by string diagram, as long as that works, the steering rack can indeed go anywhere. Great modifications to suit the Customer, Kiwi.
I'd have removed the ignition and put four Jenvey 58DCO sidedrafts with hidden EDIS8 and reflashed XR8 EECV 103 pin. But I'm a Alan Moffat and Norm Beachy ATCC devotee. But that's a calibrated 600 HP engine combination...you buy the guarantee by not having to mess around with it. Have Cut Kiwis, Rejoyce 🥝✔️
Hi from Matamata! Great stuff, very classy metalwork in an area where a lot of people would not even notice. I suppose that is a good thing as if it looks factory it's a good job (at a minimum) Also, I have not seen that twin carb/intake setup before so would like you to explain a bit about it.Cheers
I can picture an early 1960’s Chrysler Long Ram intake curing your vertical clearance issue. Do you know any clever CAD designers with a 3D printer? That might still give you ductwork for the hood scoop.
Geeez kev...it would have fit easier from the factory set up lol😅 5:15
Yeah it would have but the customer wanted to get away from the antiquated factory suspension and steering.
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160
Bloody customers huh!!!!
😉
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160
I understand we did the same to an XP COUPE, put 429 KAASE in it. Keep up the good work mate. Loving the channel and seeing some old school workmanship
Shifting it back will be an advantage as far as weight distribution is concerned ( I suppose it's an iron block?). I've heard of plastic dummy engines being used to make things easier when experimenting with engine bay fitment, I wonder if there's a dummy FE ? , and if there is ,could you fit a specific intake to it? ,just wondering .Nice work Kiwi.🙂
Personally, I've never trusted bolting the engine lift plate to the carb studs. Just me I guess. I run chains from the intake bolts or head accessory bolt holes. I see a lot of people using the carb studs, but that's a hell of a lot of weight pulling on some 1/4" studs in aluminum...Again, just me...
Are you deleting the blower box under the dash?
Why does the engine sit so high? I have pictures of a 1968 Mustang with a FE 427 and CJ 428 with medium riser dual quad intake and it fits under the hood with that scoop.
Because it has TCI suspension with a front mounted steering rack ( mustang 2 style ). The rack is what necessitates the high mounting position of engine
Are these big heavy motors realy worth the extra work shortly you can get enough power out of a smaller motor a lot of extra weight to bugger up the handling all right in a truck but not a road car
Gonna be nice, Kiwi! Is, that a Lykins motorsports engine?
No it's not. Built by a local machine shop.
Be kind of cool to leave the engine at the stock height, and just run without a hood.
WHY do retro mod guys go with these monster 500 or 600 HP motors? I'd love that car with a nice 289 or 302 at around 300 ponies! 500+ HP is race car driver stuff and hoping it will go somewhat straight....
5-600 ho isn't really a monster anymore, bragging rights start at a 1000hp with these twin turbo LS and coyote's. But I hear what you're saying....
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160Understood. At 1000 HP+ I think you need a computer guy with a laptop strapped in the passenger seat wherever you go...
@@boilerroomed3682 absolutely!!🤣😁
Haven't you considered converting the engine to one that uses a dry oil sump?: ruclips.net/video/8xYLSJohDj4/видео.html Doing so should solve your hood-clearance issue, given that there would no longer be an oil pan which would interfere with what you're trying to achieve
That was an option we considered but its a pretty involved and expensive conversion. Plus the tank would have to go in the trunk along with all the plumbing.
But what kind of milage will it get
F. ALL. But a lot of fun !
It's miles to the gallon it's smiles to the gallon that you measure in these cars 😎👍
That is a very wide engine for that car.
???
Sorry, it was meant to say wide.@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160
Ahh I get it now😁. Yes it's is, not as wide as a Coyote mind you.....
who's your furry friend ? Cuz
That's Kev the Kiwi mate!
Brain surgery .😊
Well it's surgery for sure, thanks man 😎😁