I forgot to mention this in the video but it is very important that the engine is completely cold. So, let the car sit overnight before you do this because, the valve clearance changes with engine temperature. All of the specs given in the video are for a cold engine.
Bro after valve adjustment fuel economy increased. Then in my next regill at same Gad station has mileage dropped back to 225 ish do you know what’s wrong ?
I wasn't looking forward to doing this as I went and checked spark plugs and regapped them, changed out the coil packs, and still the same problem with a PO303 code (cylinder 3 misfire). Once I had a chance to watch your video, I went ahead and did the valve adjustment and within two hours, the car was running smooth again and trouble code is gone. Thanks for the great video and it was very easy to do so on our 2012 Civic.
To avoid a leaky valve cover torque the valve cover bolts is a spiral pattern, starting with the bolts in the center, working outwards. Tighten them in two steps, with the final step torque to 7 ft. lbs. (84 in. lbs. or 10 Nm).
If you DONT want to jack the car up and remove a wheel to turn the motor over, you can remove the plastic bung for the cam gear bolt and use the bolt on the cam to turn the engine over. Taking spark plugs out is also optional to make turning the engine over a little easier! Good video man!
I have lifetime oil changes at the Honda dealership which I see as a way for them to recommend maintenance like this and they have never mentioned it. They mention $200 brake fluid flushes and $200 coolant flushes. This is pure labor and would seem to be a perfect item to recommend. I may have to take a look at this some time. At least it doesn’t require shims and cam removal like the motorcycles.
I just did the valve adjustment on my Honda 2013 NC700X motorbike. It's incredible how this is nearly identical. All of the clearances are 0.001 looser for the Civic than the NC, but otherwise everything looks identical, down to the torque specs for the lock nuts, valve cover, etc. I was a little hesitant to do this job on my Civic because I was not sure how involved it would be, but now I am going to go for it. Looks like the hardest part is getting the wiring harness unplugged and out of the way.
Second comments...I just used this quick refresher. I did my 2007 Civic 1.8 with 174,000. That I just seemed to never get around too. Never been into. Both exhaust and intakes were about .002 loose. That is about 1/16 turn on that adjuster. And like always, I just turn it down till it stops . Hold and snug and after eyeballing screw slot torque. Then fill it. The filler is tight coming out. Done enough to know a filler of .001 or .002 will slide right under, so good enough and you will hear the injectors when done. It car is a real pain compared to older Hondas that don't have the back side under there like this one. My hands are not that big yet they only go off to the slide and then over. And that FI harness does not push back far and probably would be a real pain to undo. This video is beyond belief on how good it is. I would rate it 99 out of a 100... Had to knock off 1 since you forget to put back one coil pack nut....
Please tell me you still have your 06. If not, what happened? If you do still have it, where you at in mileage? Just curious btw. I have an 06 also. And by the looks of the amount of mileage I I have seen being put on this generation It looks like I will have this car awhile. I’m at 134,00. Pretty good I think for a 16 year old.
@@raiderrichard7291 wow, i got a 2015 civic lx and im already almost caught up, im at 108k. but yes these cars can very easily last over 400k miles as long as you keep up on maintenance, specifically oil changes.
I just hit subscribe too! Thank you, my Mom gave me her 2010 Honda Civic, I had no idea it had adjustable valves, it’s a little noisy and a little rough to start, it’s got 170,000 miles on it and she’s never had the valves adjusted, I should check that the next oil change 🤣
Don't bother unless you really hear clattering. I did not adjust mine until 357,000 miles. Spark plugs on that may be what helps smooth it out. I have noticed a difference when I've done plugs. They should be done every 100,000 miles. Use a little antisieze on the threads and torque to specs (I have found mine loose later on when doing by hand because I was afraid I'd over tighten).
2010 civic with 130k here. my dad is over 80 and makes decisions motivated by saving money in the short term, and showing him the 6 mile drop in fuel economy finally helped me convince him to let me service it. somehow code 4 (spark plugs and valve adjustment) never showed up in the maintenance minder. my recommendations (actually copy/paste from my notes)... start running 4 oz of seafoam in the crankcase (yes, put it in the oil) when the A or B codes come on, and put the rest of that can plus all of a second can in the fuel tank and drive around until the fuel light comes on, then change oil AND filter (regardless of whether A or B). you'll do this seafoam and filter change with EVERY oil change, so get used to it. when you change oil, inspect all the fluids. check levels AND color/consistency. when you rotate tires, inspect brakes, suspension, and steering components. maintenance minder schedule says code 4 includes replace timing BELT. 8gen civic uses a timing CHAIN. they should last 300k. full 100k service SHOULD include the following: 1. squirt some rust penetrant at both O2 sensors. you'll come back to these. 2. remove the cowl (a1-auto has a good vid on this). 3. remove the battery. honda says disconnect negative first, THEN disconnect positive, despite what i was taught. 4. change the plugs with ngk iridium. they should run abt US$12 each. plugs torque to 156 INCH-lbs, acorn nuts torque to 60 INCH-lbs 5. do the tear-down as shown in this vid and adjust the valves. shoot for 0.2mm in and 0.25mm ex. that's smack dead center of the range. i used 0.203 and 0.254. my gauges are flat and removable. i slip the gauges under both in and both ex of the same cylinder and wiggle the arms up and down. then i either loosen until i JUST feel some slop, or tighten until the slop JUST disappears. i also move the gauge around to feel the drag. i use a 10mm box wrench to SLIGHTLY snug the adjuster nuts to stiffen the adjuster screws. once i think the valves are adjusted i use the same wrench to kinda tighten them up, then check clearance again (wiggle AND slip). sometimes i have to loosen and readjust. the adjusters torque to 120 INCH-lbs once everything is adjusted. the valve cover screws torque to 95 INCH-lbs and don't have any specific torquing pattern, although i tend to use the following pattern: 6, 1, 3, 8 7, 4, 2, 5 6. remove the air filter box. this may require some dremel skill. start by removing the lid and filter, and stuff a CLEAN rag into the hole that goes around to the throttle body. look for the screw at the box's right-front, then follow that side of the box to the middle and you'll see a post that is not a bolt. that post is mushroomed so the box with a rubber grommet will fit onto it but trying to remove the box means either tearing up the grommet or risk breaking the box. i trimmed away the edges of the "cap" of the mushroom. the "cap" is still there but it's all the same diam as the "stem" of the mushroom. after that mod you should be able to pull of the boot in front that goes down to the resonator box, loosen the clamps on the boot in the back that goes to the throttle body, bolts at right front, and left rear (car's left and right, opposite for you), loosen the corbin clamps on the breather tube, then can remove the box. 7. all that because we want to get at the throttle body to clean the inside. reintall the battery, ignition on but engine not running, assistant (or brick) to mash accelerator to ELECTRICALLY open the throttle plate, spray seafoam top cleaner on a paper towel and wipe inside body without moving plate. move that plate and you'll damage the throttle position sensor. use the same spray to wipe down the inside of the boots and air box. 8. disconnect the battery but leave it in. get a QUALITY O2 sensor wrench and yank out the old ones. there are vids on how to change O2 senors for this car. use COPPER anti-seize on the sensor threads. torque to 33 FOOT-lbs. 9. remove the fuel injectors and fuel rail. there are vids on this. either get new injectors, DIY clean them, or send them off for cleaning. i'm for the DIY clean. look for a vid on the subject that shows you how to modify a tire valve stem and use 2 leads with gator clips to activate the injector solenoids. the valve stem goes onto the fuel rail where the fuel hose connects, and all 4 injectors have to be on the rail at the same time, but you'll only clean and energize one injector at a time. i used seafoam spray. IMMEDIATELY after cleaning, reassemble the fuel system, connect battery, and start the engine. DO NOT LEAVE SEAFOAM IN THE INJECTORS OVERNIGHT. i've never done it, but someone told me they soaked their injectors in seafoam overnight and destroyed them. not sure what happened there but yeah. 10. remove the MAF sensor, use MAF sensor cleaner, reinstall MAF sensor. 11. reconnect the battery. 12. with an assistant, use a new can of seafoam spray to clean throttle body according to directions. reinstall the air box and filter before the recommended 10-min drive with "spirited acceleration" after the hot-soak. 13. with all that done you can finally reinstall the cowl. you should get 35mpg or better, about like when it was new.
5 speed you can forego taking the tire off by placing the car in5th gear then jacking the car up on the passenger side and turning the tire to rotate the crank to each cylinder. Makes the job MUCH easier and faster. Also why didn’t you start the car after completion for the video?? Good post though!
Van Nguyen the wheel free turns and won’t spin the driver tire on the ground. You put blocks under the back tires and it won’t roll. You only need enough clearance for the passenger tire to rotate. When you have the valve cover off you’ll see what I mean.
@Van Nguyen that’s great, I’m glad I was able to help and make the job easier on you. Taking off the tire and hand cranking that crankshaft bolt is a pain especially when you can’t see exactly where the cam gear is while you’re turning it, but using the transmission to do it makes it a piece of cake. Call it the Civic Valve Lash adjustment Hack. 😂
Does it matter which way the crank is moved - clockwise or counter-clockwise? What is the sealant used on the valve cover; and it is just used at the 4 corners of the cover? Someone suggested using the max valve clearance setting, since too tight is worse than too loose - correct? And how do you get a torque wrench in the rear of the valve cover - it looks too restricted. Comprehensive video - very well done.
My thoughts and what I have found and mostly on Toyotas is after a lot of miles, they wear a little channel area with two high ridges. When you turn it to either make the gap less or more, it can do two things. Or both. When you turn it to a new area, that ridge grabs the filler and you end up with it a little too loose or even if you snug it a little to compensate, it's still set on that ridge and within minutes of running, it knocks that ridge off and it's too loose. Of course, it's noisier than before and you stand there scratching your head. It only takes a few thousands (.002) extra to be noisy. It really hurts nothing on a Toyota or Honda. Better than being too close. I have checked CR-Vs with 100 K and still within .0015 of spec. I usually now just try to get filler gage under rocker it before unlocking. So I have some idea where it is. If it goes, I break the lock, make sure the screw is free. Then I just go down to snug on filler. Make sure the screw does not turn and lock nut. Usually done this way, filler is pretty tight but mainly from that high ridge. I have gone back after taking filler out and put my dial indicator on the rocker and checked it that way and it is always within.001. Of course if filler won't go, I break the nut and back off and go from there with the above. You end up with a quite valve train.
Looks like you missed an acorn nut on number one coil hold down. When you said you were done. just a note. thanks for posting the video! Are there other ways to turn over the crank than from below? how can one person do it if you cant line up the marks on .near the timing chain?
Thank you again in this video. For repeat watch, because I'm complete To perfect a valve clearance of this engine. Thank you. This another my personal knowledge and experience.
according to my local dealership this is a very complicated job that should only be attempted by a professional. the tech even told me he usually does everything on his car but he pays one of the other guys to adjust the valves. they just want my money.
@@dhtsoaedsdhtnadi9575 That tech is just: 1: To lazy to work on his own stuff because working on others people crap all day is freaking tiring. 2: He does not know how too. Seems to far fetched sence Honda Techs are ASE certified and have to continue schooling. 3: They just want your money🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@lunchbox3434 if they REALLY wanted my money they shoulda NEVER told me i couldn't do it. after valve job she ran 25 miles out and back (50 rd trip) smooth as silk. also replaced plugs and O2 sensors, cleaned MAF, pressure-cleaned fuel injectors with a valve stem and some seafoam top cleaner and wiped inside the throttle body. the momentary high rev on ignition startup has returned after an absence so long i forgot it was supposed to do that. got some accel g's too. not bad for $300 in parts and chemicals on an a/t with 135k miles
Just took my car to shop for my 13 civic with 96,000 miles. Got a call back that the valves are fine and need no adjustment. Is this true. I told him based on my reading that they need adjusted/ checked every 30,000. Is this true? The shop told me that's pretty excessive and said it's a Honda man. So he only charged me for R&R for the valve cover and gasket etc...
This is the same motor as in my 2012 civic. why would you need to adjust the valves like that? Do they move over time? My car is still at 50k miles so luckily i haven't had any major issues with mine, but some maintenance notification have begun to pop up like now I gotta change my trans fluid and one of my tpms sensors must have died or came loose. But overall, i want to make sure I keep on top of everything, my last car was a b18 teggy i drove for over 350k miles! Thanks for posting this video, i haven't had this engine open yet so it was nice to see what it looks like without having to do it myself. When the time comes to open her up I'll know what to expect and look out for. much appreciated.
Most vehicles have a way of keeping the valves adjusted with a hydraulic mechanism called a lifter. Honda's do not use them. Therefore, the valve clearance must be adjusted manually every so often. Usually every 100,000 miles, sooner if the car is making a tapping type noise coming from the top of the engine. For the most part if you keep up with your maintenance on these cars they usually last a very long time.
@@kyststudio-epicartadventure i would say its more likely they loosen over time due to normal wearing of the valve tip and rollers. Honda recommends adjustment every 105k miles
Engine components wear over time, so the valve clearance needs to be kept within spec in order to prevent inefficient operation of the engine or valve damage.
@@RepairGeek So you can put a "maple syrup" dig in but when I clarify you get defensive? My comment was about the metric system being a global system not a Canadian system. And btw NASA uses metric. And btw I have tremendous respect for the USA.
@@davidhoulden5791 dude.... It's a joke... Move on. www.amazon.com/Metric-system-Sarcastic-Patriotic-T-Shirt/dp/B07D2TF15J/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=metric+system+tshirt&qid=1615737829&sr=8-13
Great video, even better shirt. You spent too long explaining the clearance. If it slides without resistance it's too easy and loose, it's too tight when it pinches the gauge making it difficult to move. It should be snug, find the middle.
My car has a rattle during start up for like 5 mins until it heats up. Sound is coming from the valve cover . I'm at 152k miles. Is this what I need to do to stop bthe noise?
Ausome video, hopefully if there is a problem I can't fix it may be valve adjustment and I can look back at this video, I have 170 000 miles on my civic and I drive it strictly city doing uber so my car has high wear. Thanks alot!!!
The Civic is the first car I've encountered in 30 yrs that needed manual valve lash adjustment. What was Honda thinking? I dunno, but I've sent them an email & asked. Overall a decent video with a few notable flaws. Why did you pull so much of the electrics off? I found I didn't need to do this to get the valve cover off. Hopefully i haven't ruined the car's electrics somehow. You said "dipstick." Your example of turning the engine over with a socket and handle shows you turning the engine counter clockwise. My understanding is that you only want to turn the engine clockwise. Your cautionary warning at the beginning about how there is important "feel" for how the feeler-gauge feels when the lash is adjusted correctly. The warning is so scary it would dissuade a user from attempting this service. As far as HEARING the sound the feeler gauge makes when the lash is correct: NO. How would you characterize the sound properly adjusted valves make? Difficult to describe? OF COURSE. You don't use sound to detect correct adjustment. NOBODY uses sound. The gauges used to test if valve lash is correct are called FEELER gauges. They AREN'T called listener-to gauges. Now, some critical style issues: there were several pieces of critical information you didn't narrate. I probably missed others, but one item i didn't miss was valve adjustment screw jam-nut torque is flashed on the video screen briefly, but. Same is true of valve cover bolt adjustment torque. Now why would you do this? If I watched only your video, your cautionary tale at the beginning would not provide me with enough confidence to perform this maintenance. I did do the adjustment because I've done the valves on enough cars to know that i have sufficient skill to fill in the gaps you missed and perform the adjustment correctly. Lastly, you talk too slowly. I sped your video up to 1.5X so I could get through it without self immolation.
@@RepairGeek Well, you got me there. If I videotapes everything I do I'd never get anything done. Your video is a good video, almost perfect. I am providing constructive criticism with the noblest of intentions. You see, if your video was a hot mess, I wouldn't bother, but yours is SO GOOD, that all it needs is a few notable tweaks and you'd have the #1 Civic valve adjustment video on RUclips. Were I to make one, mine WOULD BE the number Civic valve adjustment video on RUclips. Do you seriously want that competition? If I start posting, it's going to piss a lot of people off. Actually, I just bought a tripod so I could do just that. Now i've got to work out that whole new RUclips security via security gizmo stuff before I can post. So keep your eyes peeled & your ears free of detritus.
Hi,I’m one of your subscribers, how do I know when to stop turning the crankshaft for the next cylinder? Is it every 90 degrees or do they have a marking line for reference? Also when you line up it says “up “ on the #1 cylinder , I didn’t see any mark (line or dot)for perfect timing. Thanks
I have to lift my car up with a jack. That means the front of the car will be higher than the back of the car. I am doing this on a slanted driveway too. If I am adjusting the valves when my car is on an incline, does that affect anything? Does the car have to be perfectly level front to back? I see you have a lift, but I dont have a lift to make the car perfectly level when I jack it up.
What position do you have to rotate the engine to before you start it back up? Do you rotate the crank back to UP position on cylinder 1 before starting it? Also, could you do a video on how to remove the cowl so I can service the intake and MAF?
Are any of the Honda engines (like an 09 CRV-LX) reversed intake to outtake? One guy with his pics was saying intake was at the front and and exhaust out the back side. Is there any mark on the engine as to intake and exhaust?
Great video. I've never adjusted valves on my 2007 Civic and there's no clicking, but the valve cover gasket is leaking, so I'll be right there anyway. Car has 240k miles, so figure I should check/adjust them. I do have a couple questions. This is probably obvious to most, but I didn't hear you address it and want to be sure. You said that the adjustment for the exhaust is .009-.011 and as you are adjusting cylinder 1 exhaust, at 11:29 you can see .010 clearly on the feeler gauge. So I'm assuming you chose that because it's right in the middle of the .009-.011? So for the intake, you'd use the .008 feeler? Second question. Are the lock nut and jamb nut the same thing? At 10:34 you call it a lock nut and then at 13:24 jamb nut. Just want to make sure since I've never done this before. EDIT: I found my answers (Yes to all) watching another video. Again, thanks for your video. Very well done.
You're correct on your first question. The specifications given are a range. So, obviously you want your adjustment to fall in that range. And you're correct on your second question, they are the same thing. I just used 2 different terms without realizing it.
WARNING !!!!! make SURE each rocker arm is sitting on the FLAT SIDE of the cam lobe for EACH valve when you adjust it. you can mess this up BADLY adjust your valves loose. adjust them to the top of their tolerance after the vehicle has sat overnight. COLD. NOT THE MIDDLE you DO NOT want your valves tight. valves DO NOT grow extra clearance and start ticking. valve clearance DOES NOT get bigger. it gets smaller as the valve wears into the seat. the stem moves closer and closer to the rocker and eventually the rocker is ALWAYS touching the valve and the cam at the same time which prevents the valve from landing on the seat AND THEN the valve stops closing tightly and begins to burn around the path of least resistance. a burned valve means the head comes off. EXHAUST valves take more abuse from heat on the valve seat and should be adjusted to their maximum tolerance. don't worry - you won't notice ANY difference in performance or engine noise. after finishing your adjustment - go through the entire rotation again and recheck each gap. MAKE SURE you did it correctly
@@mixter7x7 I'll make sure the engine is cold before I start and remember to rotate the engine and recheck the gaps before I put it back together. You said : "make SURE each rocker arm is sitting on the FLAT SIDE of the cam lobe for EACH valve when you adjust it" That means rotate the engine using the 19mm nut in the wheel well making sure the timing chain sprocket shows 2 when you adjust valves for cylinder 2, shows 3 when you adjust valves for cylinder 3, and shows 4 for cylinder 4, right?
@@dcloes honestly - i can't say and i won't give you info i'm not sure of. it's hard to see the cam and possibly the reason they numbered the cam sprocket. confirm that in a manual or another video somewhere before assuming the method is correct. you might also use a mirror to look directly at the rockers where they ride on the cam to make sure they are on the flats - not the lobes. flats of the cam are also referred to as the " base " or " base circle "
@@mixter7x7 After watching a couple other videos doing this on the R18 that shows them rotating to each position on the sprocket (up, 2, 3, and 4), I'm confident that if the "up" on the sprocket is correctly centered as Repair Geek shows at 8:31 in the video,, the rockers are where they need to be for their valves. As they are when you rotate it to 2, 3, and 4 and their valves. I'll triple check though. Thanks for the extra info.
My 2007 Civic 1.8 has a little oil about midway on the spark coil pack (just a trace on number two). I did not see that when I put plugs in it at 108K. I now have at 160K and a P0302 plug misfire code. A New spark NKG Iridium IZFR6K-11S plug did not help. Valves have never been adjusted. I see on line four donuts with FelPro VS 50741 R valve cover gasket. Does those rings go under that big nut looking cap under the coil Pack? Or maybe that oil came out of coil pack? It appears to go in a limp mode and barley moves at 8 MPH and not up a hill. Could it be the fuel pump?
My 07 LX has 357,000 on it and I just started hearing it. I still get 37mpg going 75mph. Great engines. I've got this to do, the serp belt and the power steering pump(spotted leaking during inspection and I assume that can't be from a leaking can shaft seal or anything else leaking into it). I may do the water pump while I'm at it.
@L. Dega I'm sharing my experience and betting my mechanical engineering degree from Rensselaer that you don't know your butt from a hole in the ground and really ought to keep your trap shut when you try to connect torque and power at highway speeds to fuel economy. I've also owned this car since 2010 and have done all of the work on it. Just because you have had a different experience does NOT mean I'm wrong. Got it?!
@L. Dega I need a report or actual data to understand where you are coming from. I'm talking flat road with low friction tires (Pirelli P4) and I get 43-46 going 55mph. My 1986 accord also got 40 going 65. Honda is known for under powered engines, or really efficient ones on the small end.
@L. Dega I'm sorry but no, you go find it. I shared and now if you'll notice, you are the only one starting something. I've checked my mileage numerous times. I am sorry you are not happy that I get good efficiency.
bryan coffey that would be a pretty shitty joke. instead of asking a question you know the answer to why not just respond with a simple “NO” The job is done why even bother responding a month later?
Even though this is a year old, some people may be wondering why you have to do one at a time... Valve clearance has to be measured when a cylinder is at top dead center (TDC), and on a straight 4, the outer pistons travel in a pair as do the inner pistons. However, valve clearance must be measured when all the valves are closed, and when a pair of pistons is at TDC, one set of valves is open, and the other is closed. The closed ones are the ones you measure.
Wait so if you get a valve cover gasket do you need to put anything on it to seal. Cause I heard you talking about sumn like that but you didn’t rlly clarify?
Where there are transitions to other components, use the RTV he's talking about...on the surface, under the gasket...not a lot. Let me know if you need the full product description but check his link first as he may have listed it. I used the RTV as instructed on my girlfriend's Highlander front valve cover and zero leaks....proper bolt torque needs to be considered as well.
Can you please help me on this as I cant find it online? My car is 1.5L D15Y Engine 4 speed Automatic Transmission Honda Civic 2002 Ex 4Door Sedan Need to know the valve clearance measurement for this one? Please help me. TIA
Repir Geek, my mechanic says that i should adjust my valves on a cold engine and them re adjust them with a warm engine, have you heard anything like this before?
Like your video, i am have do not wrench tork, is correct make regulator valve, only wrench, so be care torque hand control! Sorry i dont speak english!!!
I set the exhaust to a loose .010 and a tight .011 and for the intake I set it to a loose .008 and a tight .009 and now I have a sewing machine tick tick tick sound.
I forgot to mention this in the video but it is very important that the engine is completely cold. So, let the car sit overnight before you do this because, the valve clearance changes with engine temperature. All of the specs given in the video are for a cold engine.
Dude, I read up online says Valve adjustment should be done while engine are hot...
@@HansenWHS that is false. needs to be less than 100F
@@HansenWHS some engines give a hot and/or cold adjustment value. The R18A specifies cold.
Bro after valve adjustment fuel economy increased. Then in my next regill at same Gad station has mileage dropped back to 225 ish do you know what’s wrong ?
@@sk8allica1 more city driving?
Firing order for this R18 engine is 1, 3, 4, 2. The numbers on the cam gear match the firing order and you need to rotate it clockwise.
I wasn't looking forward to doing this as I went and checked spark plugs and regapped them, changed out the coil packs, and still the same problem with a PO303 code (cylinder 3 misfire). Once I had a chance to watch your video, I went ahead and did the valve adjustment and within two hours, the car was running smooth again and trouble code is gone. Thanks for the great video and it was very easy to do so on our 2012 Civic.
To avoid a leaky valve cover torque the valve cover bolts is a spiral pattern, starting with the bolts in the center, working outwards. Tighten them in two steps, with the final step torque to 7 ft. lbs. (84 in. lbs. or 10 Nm).
This is an excellent tutorial. I wish all videos on car repair were this well executed. Thanks
If you DONT want to jack the car up and remove a wheel to turn the motor over, you can remove the plastic bung for the cam gear bolt and use the bolt on the cam to turn the engine over. Taking spark plugs out is also optional to make turning the engine over a little easier! Good video man!
5 speed you can jack it up place in 5th and rotate the tire to spin the crank over making it much quicker and easier!
You can also just man handle the serpentine belt to turn it over
I always figured that's what that plastic cover was used for
Rotate the alternator bolt
Why does the camp shaft need to be rotated? Does it get rotated to TDC?
Feeler gauge
10mm socket and wrench
Flat head
17-19mm socket
Intake .007-.009 exhaust .009-.011
Or intake .18-.22mm exhaust .23-.27mm
Does it have to between
IMO the best video for this topic I've found on YT. many thanks!
No problem. I wouldn't call it the best... There are a lot of these videos out there.
I have lifetime oil changes at the Honda dealership which I see as a way for them to recommend maintenance like this and they have never mentioned it. They mention $200 brake fluid flushes and $200 coolant flushes. This is pure labor and would seem to be a perfect item to recommend. I may have to take a look at this some time. At least it doesn’t require shims and cam removal like the motorcycles.
I just did the valve adjustment on my Honda 2013 NC700X motorbike. It's incredible how this is nearly identical. All of the clearances are 0.001 looser for the Civic than the NC, but otherwise everything looks identical, down to the torque specs for the lock nuts, valve cover, etc. I was a little hesitant to do this job on my Civic because I was not sure how involved it would be, but now I am going to go for it. Looks like the hardest part is getting the wiring harness unplugged and out of the way.
Man I wish every car video was this easy to understand!! Thank you sir
Second comments...I just used this quick refresher. I did my 2007 Civic 1.8 with 174,000. That I just seemed to never get around too.
Never been into. Both exhaust and intakes were about .002 loose. That is about 1/16 turn on that adjuster. And like always, I just turn it down till it stops . Hold and snug and after eyeballing screw slot torque. Then fill it.
The filler is tight coming out. Done enough to know a filler of .001 or .002 will slide right under, so good enough and you will hear the injectors when done. It car is a real pain compared to older Hondas that don't have the back side under there like this one. My hands are not that big yet they only go off to the slide and then over. And that FI harness does not push back far and probably would be a real pain to undo.
This video is beyond belief on how good it is. I would rate it 99 out of a 100...
Had to knock off 1 since you forget to put back one coil pack nut....
Not bad for a guy that shot this with a cell phone haha. Thanks for watching.
@@RepairGeek It's pure professional.
I appreciate you showing this step by step. It really helps
One of the best mechanic channels!
Thanks.
Awesome guide thanks man my 06 lx needs valve adjustment 227k miles going strong
Please tell me you still have your 06. If not, what happened? If you do still have it, where you at in mileage?
Just curious btw. I have an 06 also. And by the looks of the amount of mileage I I have seen being put on this generation
It looks like I will have this car awhile. I’m at 134,00. Pretty good I think for a 16 year old.
@@raiderrichard7291 yeah I still have the car I use it everyday to get to work and back, around towning. Has close to 255k now
@@raiderrichard7291 wow, i got a 2015 civic lx and im already almost caught up, im at 108k. but yes these cars can very easily last over 400k miles as long as you keep up on maintenance, specifically oil changes.
I’ve got 167k, and the valves are still very quiet. I guess frequently changing the oil and filter pays off.
Excellent walk-thru. Reminds me of setting dual points in my old Mopars. All about the feel.....
Points? WTH are points?..............explain for the whippersnappers, not this old man.
I just hit subscribe too! Thank you, my Mom gave me her 2010 Honda Civic, I had no idea it had adjustable valves, it’s a little noisy and a little rough to start, it’s got 170,000 miles on it and she’s never had the valves adjusted, I should check that the next oil change 🤣
Don't bother unless you really hear clattering. I did not adjust mine until 357,000 miles. Spark plugs on that may be what helps smooth it out. I have noticed a difference when I've done plugs. They should be done every 100,000 miles. Use a little antisieze on the threads and torque to specs (I have found mine loose later on when doing by hand because I was afraid I'd over tighten).
2010 civic with 130k here. my dad is over 80 and makes decisions motivated by saving money in the short term, and showing him the 6 mile drop in fuel economy finally helped me convince him to let me service it. somehow code 4 (spark plugs and valve adjustment) never showed up in the maintenance minder. my recommendations (actually copy/paste from my notes)...
start running 4 oz of seafoam in the crankcase (yes, put it in the oil) when the A or B codes come on, and put the rest of that can plus all of a second can in the fuel tank and drive around until the fuel light comes on, then change oil AND filter (regardless of whether A or B). you'll do this seafoam and filter change with EVERY oil change, so get used to it.
when you change oil, inspect all the fluids. check levels AND color/consistency.
when you rotate tires, inspect brakes, suspension, and steering components.
maintenance minder schedule says code 4 includes replace timing BELT. 8gen civic uses a timing CHAIN. they should last 300k.
full 100k service SHOULD include the following:
1. squirt some rust penetrant at both O2 sensors. you'll come back to these.
2. remove the cowl (a1-auto has a good vid on this).
3. remove the battery. honda says disconnect negative first, THEN disconnect positive, despite what i was taught.
4. change the plugs with ngk iridium. they should run abt US$12 each. plugs torque to 156 INCH-lbs, acorn nuts torque to 60 INCH-lbs
5. do the tear-down as shown in this vid and adjust the valves. shoot for 0.2mm in and 0.25mm ex. that's smack dead center of the range. i used 0.203 and 0.254. my gauges are flat and removable. i slip the gauges under both in and both ex of the same cylinder and wiggle the arms up and down. then i either loosen until i JUST feel some slop, or tighten until the slop JUST disappears. i also move the gauge around to feel the drag. i use a 10mm box wrench to SLIGHTLY snug the adjuster nuts to stiffen the adjuster screws. once i think the valves are adjusted i use the same wrench to kinda tighten them up, then check clearance again (wiggle AND slip). sometimes i have to loosen and readjust. the adjusters torque to 120 INCH-lbs once everything is adjusted. the valve cover screws torque to 95 INCH-lbs and don't have any specific torquing pattern, although i tend to use the following pattern:
6, 1, 3, 8
7, 4, 2, 5
6. remove the air filter box. this may require some dremel skill. start by removing the lid and filter, and stuff a CLEAN rag into the hole that goes around to the throttle body. look for the screw at the box's right-front, then follow that side of the box to the middle and you'll see a post that is not a bolt. that post is mushroomed so the box with a rubber grommet will fit onto it but trying to remove the box means either tearing up the grommet or risk breaking the box. i trimmed away the edges of the "cap" of the mushroom. the "cap" is still there but it's all the same diam as the "stem" of the mushroom. after that mod you should be able to pull of the boot in front that goes down to the resonator box, loosen the clamps on the boot in the back that goes to the throttle body, bolts at right front, and left rear (car's left and right, opposite for you), loosen the corbin clamps on the breather tube, then can remove the box.
7. all that because we want to get at the throttle body to clean the inside. reintall the battery, ignition on but engine not running, assistant (or brick) to mash accelerator to ELECTRICALLY open the throttle plate, spray seafoam top cleaner on a paper towel and wipe inside body without moving plate. move that plate and you'll damage the throttle position sensor. use the same spray to wipe down the inside of the boots and air box.
8. disconnect the battery but leave it in. get a QUALITY O2 sensor wrench and yank out the old ones. there are vids on how to change O2 senors for this car. use COPPER anti-seize on the sensor threads. torque to 33 FOOT-lbs.
9. remove the fuel injectors and fuel rail. there are vids on this. either get new injectors, DIY clean them, or send them off for cleaning. i'm for the DIY clean. look for a vid on the subject that shows you how to modify a tire valve stem and use 2 leads with gator clips to activate the injector solenoids. the valve stem goes onto the fuel rail where the fuel hose connects, and all 4 injectors have to be on the rail at the same time, but you'll only clean and energize one injector at a time. i used seafoam spray. IMMEDIATELY after cleaning, reassemble the fuel system, connect battery, and start the engine. DO NOT LEAVE SEAFOAM IN THE INJECTORS OVERNIGHT. i've never done it, but someone told me they soaked their injectors in seafoam overnight and destroyed them. not sure what happened there but yeah.
10. remove the MAF sensor, use MAF sensor cleaner, reinstall MAF sensor.
11. reconnect the battery.
12. with an assistant, use a new can of seafoam spray to clean throttle body according to directions. reinstall the air box and filter before the recommended 10-min drive with "spirited acceleration" after the hot-soak.
13. with all that done you can finally reinstall the cowl. you should get 35mpg or better, about like when it was new.
5 speed you can forego taking the tire off by placing the car in5th gear then jacking the car up on the passenger side and turning the tire to rotate the crank to each cylinder. Makes the job MUCH easier and faster. Also why didn’t you start the car after completion for the video?? Good post though!
Van Nguyen the wheel free turns and won’t spin the driver tire on the ground. You put blocks under the back tires and it won’t roll. You only need enough clearance for the passenger tire to rotate. When you have the valve cover off you’ll see what I mean.
@Van Nguyen that’s great, I’m glad I was able to help and make the job easier on you. Taking off the tire and hand cranking that crankshaft bolt is a pain especially when you can’t see exactly where the cam gear is while you’re turning it, but using the transmission to do it makes it a piece of cake. Call it the Civic Valve Lash adjustment Hack. 😂
@@alteregos8949 I hate how he didn't start the car prior to finishing the job. I wanted to hear how it sounded after the adjustment.
@@alteregos8949 For an auto transmission, got any hacks? 8D
I know it is way too late, but you forgot the nut for the first coil over to the left. Thanks for this video and your rust proofing videos!!!
Excellent video. If I ever get an 8th gen I’ll be sure to use this video. Thanks!
Thanks man. Saved me 500 bucks
Great video of the procedure. Nice to have a separate cameraman with a quality camera. A head mounted GoPro just doesn't cut it.
Hahaha I have no seperate camera man. Just a tripod, this video I shot with my cell phone.
Does it matter which way the crank is moved - clockwise or counter-clockwise? What is the sealant used on the valve cover; and it is just used at the 4 corners of the cover? Someone suggested using the max valve clearance setting, since too tight is worse than too loose - correct? And how do you get a torque wrench in the rear of the valve cover - it looks too restricted.
Comprehensive video - very well done.
Yo momma
When has to be adjusted or checked? Mine is 180k km and i don't know if someone checked them before car is running fine.
Firing order is actually 1,3,4,2
Are you supposed to adjust both intake and both exhaust valves for the cylinder that is at tdc?
My thoughts and what I have found and mostly on Toyotas is after a lot of miles, they wear a little channel area with two high ridges. When you turn it to either make the gap less or more, it can do two things. Or both. When you turn it to a new area, that ridge grabs the filler and you end up with it a little too loose or even if you snug it a little to compensate, it's still set on that ridge and within minutes of running, it knocks that ridge off and it's too loose. Of course, it's noisier than before and you stand there scratching your head. It only takes a few thousands (.002) extra to be noisy. It really hurts nothing on a Toyota or Honda. Better than being too close. I have checked CR-Vs with 100 K and still within .0015 of spec.
I usually now just try to get filler gage under rocker it before unlocking. So I have some idea where it is. If it goes, I break the lock, make sure the screw is free. Then I just go down to snug on filler. Make sure the screw does not turn and lock nut. Usually done this way, filler is pretty tight but mainly from that high ridge. I have gone back after taking filler out and put my dial indicator on the rocker and checked it that way and it is always within.001. Of course if filler won't go, I break the nut and back off and go from there with the above.
You end up with a quite valve train.
If anyone knows the valve tip length for the Honda r18 please let me know
I found a honda civic with 180k km and never adjusted valves. The engine runs very quite. It is possible? Should I buy it?
This guys makes an amazing video. And is very detailed thanks!
Looks like you missed an acorn nut on number one coil hold down. When you said you were done. just a note. thanks for posting the video! Are there other ways to turn over the crank than from below? how can one person do it if you cant line up the marks on .near the timing chain?
Dude, Thank you for including maple syrup - I mean metric spec.
Looked like you were rotating the engine counter clockwise. Aren’t you only supposed to rotate it clockwise?
Thanks
Why are you rotating the engine counter clockwise? is it not clockwise?
Hi. How would you know if it already needs adjustments? Are there any signs?
Yeah you’ll hear a loud ticking sound coming from the head .
Loud ticking, loss of power, loss of mpgs.
Thank you again in this video. For repeat watch, because I'm complete
To perfect a valve clearance of this engine. Thank you. This another my personal knowledge and experience.
Thanks man. I thought i was going to need a bunch on special tools! Keep them coming!
according to my local dealership this is a very complicated job that should only be attempted by a professional. the tech even told me he usually does everything on his car but he pays one of the other guys to adjust the valves. they just want my money.
@@dhtsoaedsdhtnadi9575 That tech is just:
1: To lazy to work on his own stuff because working on others people crap all day is freaking tiring.
2: He does not know how too. Seems to far fetched sence Honda Techs are ASE certified and have to continue schooling.
3: They just want your money🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@lunchbox3434 if they REALLY wanted my money they shoulda NEVER told me i couldn't do it. after valve job she ran 25 miles out and back (50 rd trip) smooth as silk. also replaced plugs and O2 sensors, cleaned MAF, pressure-cleaned fuel injectors with a valve stem and some seafoam top cleaner and wiped inside the throttle body. the momentary high rev on ignition startup has returned after an absence so long i forgot it was supposed to do that. got some accel g's too. not bad for $300 in parts and chemicals on an a/t with 135k miles
Very well done. Definitly looks easy now
Thanks so much ,old timer here
Just took my car to shop for my 13 civic with 96,000 miles. Got a call back that the valves are fine and need no adjustment. Is this true. I told him based on my reading that they need adjusted/ checked every 30,000. Is this true? The shop told me that's pretty excessive and said it's a Honda man. So he only charged me for R&R for the valve cover and gasket etc...
At what intervals should valve adjustment be done?
How many kilometers
About 160,000 km
Thanks for this video ,good for the beginner, need a lot practice,old school.
not a geek, hero.
🤣 your standards are too low lol
Hi,
Do you have any info what are the valve clearance values for Honda Civic R16A2 engine? This engine is for the 8th generation 1.6 Civic Sedan.
Nice GN shirt 👍 ... I'll be doing this job next weekend, thanks!
4 cylinders you can adjust 4 valve each time,only need turn to no4 firing to adjust another 4 valve.
Awsome video thank you for this, now I can save a bunch of money, also this doesn’t look as hard as I though would’ve been.
Thank you for not making this rocket science.
can you remind me which direction to rotate the engine, ie clockwise or counterclockwise? (2009 Civic)
This is the same motor as in my 2012 civic. why would you need to adjust the valves like that? Do they move over time? My car is still at 50k miles so luckily i haven't had any major issues with mine, but some maintenance notification have begun to pop up like now I gotta change my trans fluid and one of my tpms sensors must have died or came loose. But overall, i want to make sure I keep on top of everything, my last car was a b18 teggy i drove for over 350k miles! Thanks for posting this video, i haven't had this engine open yet so it was nice to see what it looks like without having to do it myself. When the time comes to open her up I'll know what to expect and look out for. much appreciated.
Most vehicles have a way of keeping the valves adjusted with a hydraulic mechanism called a lifter. Honda's do not use them. Therefore, the valve clearance must be adjusted manually every so often. Usually every 100,000 miles, sooner if the car is making a tapping type noise coming from the top of the engine.
For the most part if you keep up with your maintenance on these cars they usually last a very long time.
My tech said they tend to tighten over time.
@@kyststudio-epicartadventure i would say its more likely they loosen over time due to normal wearing of the valve tip and rollers. Honda recommends adjustment every 105k miles
Engine components wear over time, so the valve clearance needs to be kept within spec in order to prevent inefficient operation of the engine or valve damage.
@@kyststudio-epicartadventure Your tech is wrong.
the land of maple syrup hahahahahah
Yea and Europe and Asia and South America and Australia and....
And yet we were the only ones to land on the moon. Coincidence? I think not...
@@RepairGeek
So you can put a "maple syrup" dig in but when I clarify you get defensive?
My comment was about the metric system being a global system not a Canadian system.
And btw NASA uses metric.
And btw I have tremendous respect for the USA.
@@davidhoulden5791 dude.... It's a joke... Move on.
www.amazon.com/Metric-system-Sarcastic-Patriotic-T-Shirt/dp/B07D2TF15J/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=metric+system+tshirt&qid=1615737829&sr=8-13
Is firing order on that 1.8 1 2 3 4?
1342 like most inline 4 cylinder engines.
Wow that's a lot of work.
It must be on firing order or not before i adjust the valve some videos i saw they doing it in firing order.
Have you ever had to replace a lost motion assy spring? Is it just remove the 10 bolts and replace the springs?
Excellent guide. Thanks for the walk thru.
I just did this and found oil in the spark plug.any idea of what it could be?
Thanks
Great video, even better shirt. You spent too long explaining the clearance. If it slides without resistance it's too easy and loose, it's too tight when it pinches the gauge making it difficult to move. It should be snug, find the middle.
Do I have to take the wheel off if I have a standard transmission? Can I just put it in 5th gear and spin the wheel?
Yes you can. Makes it much faster
Thank you for making this
How difficult is the intake adjustments with the cowl? Is it worth removing first? Also replacing the VVT solenoid.
You can do it with the cowl on just need some patience
My car has a rattle during start up for like 5 mins until it heats up. Sound is coming from the valve cover . I'm at 152k miles. Is this what I need to do to stop bthe noise?
Ausome video, hopefully if there is a problem I can't fix it may be valve adjustment and I can look back at this video, I have 170 000 miles on my civic and I drive it strictly city doing uber so my car has high wear. Thanks alot!!!
The Civic is the first car I've encountered in 30 yrs that needed manual valve lash adjustment. What was Honda thinking? I dunno, but I've sent them an email & asked. Overall a decent video with a few notable flaws. Why did you pull so much of the electrics off? I found I didn't need to do this to get the valve cover off. Hopefully i haven't ruined the car's electrics somehow. You said "dipstick." Your example of turning the engine over with a socket and handle shows you turning the engine counter clockwise. My understanding is that you only want to turn the engine clockwise. Your cautionary warning at the beginning about how there is important "feel" for how the feeler-gauge feels when the lash is adjusted correctly. The warning is so scary it would dissuade a user from attempting this service. As far as HEARING the sound the feeler gauge makes when the lash is correct: NO. How would you characterize the sound properly adjusted valves make? Difficult to describe? OF COURSE. You don't use sound to detect correct adjustment. NOBODY uses sound. The gauges used to test if valve lash is correct are called FEELER gauges. They AREN'T called listener-to gauges. Now, some critical style issues: there were several pieces of critical information you didn't narrate. I probably missed others, but one item i didn't miss was valve adjustment screw jam-nut torque is flashed on the video screen briefly, but. Same is true of valve cover bolt adjustment torque. Now why would you do this? If I watched only your video, your cautionary tale at the beginning would not provide me with enough confidence to perform this maintenance. I did do the adjustment because I've done the valves on enough cars to know that i have sufficient skill to fill in the gaps you missed and perform the adjustment correctly. Lastly, you talk too slowly. I sped your video up to 1.5X so I could get through it without self immolation.
I'm anxiously awaiting your version...
@@RepairGeek Well, you got me there. If I videotapes everything I do I'd never get anything done. Your video is a good video, almost perfect. I am providing constructive criticism with the noblest of intentions. You see, if your video was a hot mess, I wouldn't bother, but yours is SO GOOD, that all it needs is a few notable tweaks and you'd have the #1 Civic valve adjustment video on RUclips. Were I to make one, mine WOULD BE the number Civic valve adjustment video on RUclips. Do you seriously want that competition? If I start posting, it's going to piss a lot of people off. Actually, I just bought a tripod so I could do just that. Now i've got to work out that whole new RUclips security via security gizmo stuff before I can post. So keep your eyes peeled & your ears free of detritus.
FU RUclips. I knew nothing about cars 10 years ago and now own more money in mechanics tools than any potential savings by doing it myself
😆
Hello what is the benefits of this adjustments tnx in advance
Nice video, easily followed , thankyou.
Hi,I’m one of your subscribers, how do I know when to stop turning the crankshaft for the next cylinder? Is it every 90 degrees or do they have a marking line for reference? Also when you line up it says “up “ on the #1 cylinder , I didn’t see any mark (line or dot)for perfect timing. Thanks
When the sprocket is turned to a specific cylinder, do you adjust both the intake and exhaust side before turning the sprocket?
Yes. Adjust both intake and exhaust.
Thanks, I have 2 civics that are due 😊
I have to lift my car up with a jack. That means the front of the car will be higher than the back of the car. I am doing this on a slanted driveway too. If I am adjusting the valves when my car is on an incline, does that affect anything? Does the car have to be perfectly level front to back? I see you have a lift, but I dont have a lift to make the car perfectly level when I jack it up.
It doesn't matter if it's not level.
Are they supposed to be tourqed?
Do you know if these specs and procedure are the same for a 2007 civic hybrid ? Thanx !
Did the adjustment make the engine run smoother and or quieter?
It dont really even need to be done. My 08 Civic 1.8 has 315000 miles on it never touched the valves runs fine.
Yea it makes a big difference . It’s recommended every-50k depending on owner usage.
What position do you have to rotate the engine to before you start it back up?
Do you rotate the crank back to UP position on cylinder 1 before starting it?
Also, could you do a video on how to remove the cowl so I can service the intake and MAF?
The engine doesn't care what position it's in before you start it.
Thanks for this, spot on
Well done. Good vid.
Are any of the Honda engines (like an 09 CRV-LX) reversed intake to outtake? One guy with his pics was saying intake was at the front and and exhaust out the back side. Is there any mark on the engine as to intake and exhaust?
I would hope you can tell what metal tube goes out the back of the car like jesus dude are you for real
Great video. I've never adjusted valves on my 2007 Civic and there's no clicking, but the valve cover gasket is leaking, so I'll be right there anyway. Car has 240k miles, so figure I should check/adjust them. I do have a couple questions.
This is probably obvious to most, but I didn't hear you address it and want to be sure. You said that the adjustment for the exhaust is .009-.011 and as you are adjusting cylinder 1 exhaust, at 11:29 you can see .010 clearly on the feeler gauge. So I'm assuming you chose that because it's right in the middle of the .009-.011? So for the intake, you'd use the .008 feeler?
Second question. Are the lock nut and jamb nut the same thing? At 10:34 you call it a lock nut and then at 13:24 jamb nut. Just want to make sure since I've never done this before.
EDIT: I found my answers (Yes to all) watching another video. Again, thanks for your video. Very well done.
You're correct on your first question. The specifications given are a range. So, obviously you want your adjustment to fall in that range.
And you're correct on your second question, they are the same thing. I just used 2 different terms without realizing it.
WARNING !!!!! make SURE each rocker arm is sitting on the FLAT SIDE of the cam lobe for EACH valve when you adjust it.
you can mess this up BADLY
adjust your valves loose. adjust them to the top of their tolerance after the vehicle has sat overnight. COLD. NOT THE MIDDLE
you DO NOT want your valves tight.
valves DO NOT grow extra clearance and start ticking.
valve clearance DOES NOT get bigger. it gets smaller as the valve wears into the seat. the stem moves closer and closer to the rocker and eventually the rocker is ALWAYS touching the valve and the cam at the same time which prevents the valve from landing on the seat AND THEN the valve stops closing tightly and begins to burn around the path of least resistance. a burned valve means the head comes off.
EXHAUST valves take more abuse from heat on the valve seat and should be adjusted to their maximum tolerance.
don't worry - you won't notice ANY difference in performance or engine noise.
after finishing your adjustment - go through the entire rotation again and recheck each gap. MAKE SURE you did it correctly
@@mixter7x7 I'll make sure the engine is cold before I start and remember to rotate the engine and recheck the gaps before I put it back together.
You said : "make SURE each rocker arm is sitting on the FLAT SIDE of the cam lobe for EACH valve when you adjust it"
That means rotate the engine using the 19mm nut in the wheel well making sure the timing chain sprocket shows 2 when you adjust valves for cylinder 2, shows 3 when you adjust valves for cylinder 3, and shows 4 for cylinder 4, right?
@@dcloes honestly - i can't say and i won't give you info i'm not sure of. it's hard to see the cam and possibly the reason they numbered the cam sprocket. confirm that in a manual or another video somewhere before assuming the method is correct. you might also use a mirror to look directly at the rockers where they ride on the cam to make sure they are on the flats - not the lobes. flats of the cam are also referred to as the " base " or " base circle "
@@mixter7x7 After watching a couple other videos doing this on the R18 that shows them rotating to each position on the sprocket (up, 2, 3, and 4), I'm confident that if the "up" on the sprocket is correctly centered as Repair Geek shows at 8:31 in the video,, the rockers are where they need to be for their valves. As they are when you rotate it to 2, 3, and 4 and their valves. I'll triple check though. Thanks for the extra info.
My 2007 Civic 1.8 has a little oil about midway on the spark coil pack (just a trace on number two). I did not see that when I put plugs in it at 108K. I now have at 160K and a P0302 plug misfire code. A New spark NKG Iridium IZFR6K-11S plug did not help. Valves have never been adjusted.
I see on line four donuts with FelPro VS 50741 R valve cover gasket. Does those rings go under that big nut looking cap under the coil Pack? Or maybe that oil came out of coil pack? It appears to go in a limp mode and barley moves at 8 MPH and not up a hill. Could it be the fuel pump?
What was it,?
It was the coil pack. A new one fixed it.
Is this R18A2 engine?
I have this engine. How do I know if I need to do this? My car runs perfectly smooth as-is. 92k miles.
Rule of thumb is if you hear sewing machine esque tapping..
My 07 LX has 357,000 on it and I just started hearing it. I still get 37mpg going 75mph. Great engines. I've got this to do, the serp belt and the power steering pump(spotted leaking during inspection and I assume that can't be from a leaking can shaft seal or anything else leaking into it). I may do the water pump while I'm at it.
@L. Dega I'm sharing my experience and betting my mechanical engineering degree from Rensselaer that you don't know your butt from a hole in the ground and really ought to keep your trap shut when you try to connect torque and power at highway speeds to fuel economy. I've also owned this car since 2010 and have done all of the work on it. Just because you have had a different experience does NOT mean I'm wrong. Got it?!
@L. Dega I need a report or actual data to understand where you are coming from. I'm talking flat road with low friction tires (Pirelli P4) and I get 43-46 going 55mph. My 1986 accord also got 40 going 65. Honda is known for under powered engines, or really efficient ones on the small end.
@L. Dega I'm sorry but no, you go find it. I shared and now if you'll notice, you are the only one starting something. I've checked my mileage numerous times. I am sorry you are not happy that I get good efficiency.
Hey hoss, I was wondering where you got all of the torque specifications for this specific job?
The service manual
How long should this take for an experienced mechanic? Honda gave me an estimate of 4.5 hours.
Sounds high, what was the cost estimate?
Can’t I adjust cylinder 1 and 4 at the same time and then do 2 and 3?
your joking , right?
bryan coffey that would be a pretty shitty joke. instead of asking a question you know the answer to why not just respond with a simple “NO” The job is done why even bother responding a month later?
Even though this is a year old, some people may be wondering why you have to do one at a time...
Valve clearance has to be measured when a cylinder is at top dead center (TDC), and on a straight 4, the outer pistons travel in a pair as do the inner pistons. However, valve clearance must be measured when all the valves are closed, and when a pair of pistons is at TDC, one set of valves is open, and the other is closed. The closed ones are the ones you measure.
Thks for the torque spec
Wait so if you get a valve cover gasket do you need to put anything on it to seal. Cause I heard you talking about sumn like that but you didn’t rlly clarify?
Where there are transitions to other components, use the RTV he's talking about...on the surface, under the gasket...not a lot. Let me know if you need the full product description but check his link first as he may have listed it. I used the RTV as instructed on my girlfriend's Highlander front valve cover and zero leaks....proper bolt torque needs to be considered as well.
Have you turned your engine anticlockwise? You're supposed to turn clockwise...
thank you very very much keep going you doing great great job
Good video!!
Nice work,nice explication thank you so much ,is nice car
Can you please help me on this as I cant find it online? My car is
1.5L
D15Y Engine
4 speed Automatic Transmission
Honda Civic 2002 Ex
4Door Sedan
Need to know the valve clearance measurement for this one? Please help me. TIA
Intake- .007-.009 inches (.18-.22 MM)
Exhaust- .009-.011 inches (.23-.27MM)
Repir Geek, my mechanic says that i should adjust my valves on a cold engine and them re adjust them with a warm engine, have you heard anything like this before?
No. Why do the job twice? If he wants to adjust them warm (which is wrong) why set them cold first? Just set them warm. Doesn't make sense to me...
What does it mean by R series. I have a regular Honda civic 2009 LX Sedan
R series is the series of the engine.
Like your video, i am have do not wrench tork, is correct make regulator valve, only wrench, so be care torque hand control! Sorry i dont speak english!!!
Just a little under what you would snug the plugs. Double check the clearance afterwards
I have 17000 miles never had this done. If I adjust the valves will my engine run smoother and quiter?
CUSTOM STUFF no need to adjust at that mileage man
@@infamousgarage4900 my bad I meant 170,000
why everybody is showing only exhaust valves gapping?
It's much easier to record and it's literally the same thing as the intakes just different specs.
Do you mean, with UP-2-3-4 marks on sprocket you do both inlet and exust gapping at the same time ?@@RepairGeek
Yes exactly. Do all 4 valves when the cylinder number is shown.
Thank you ! so, 0.2mm intake, and 0.25 exhaust.@@RepairGeek
How would i know when a valve adjustment is necessary? My honda is at 120,000 miles currently. Can someone please help
100,000 miles you're 20,000 past that
@@kkmart43 it's more than likely fine, but worth checking when convenient.
Thank you
I set the exhaust to a loose .010 and a tight .011 and for the intake I set it to a loose .008 and a tight .009 and now I have a sewing machine tick tick tick sound.