Followed your instructions to clean the throttle body and adjust the valves on my 2010 civic with 147k miles. Several valves were a little loose and a couple on the tight side. Engine is now running smooth and no more slight tapping noise from the valves. I was going to replace the transmission filter while I had the air filter box removed. Surprise, no filter on my 2010. Maybe it's hidden away somewhere else. Thanks for all your fantastic maintenance and upgrade videos.
@@leftonseen690 not sure about that. Immediately after I was getting 29mpg, but I hadn't performed the throttle relearn. It was idling at around 1600. I did the throttle relearn and that brought the idle down to around 700 and I got around 32 mpg on the first tank after fixing the idle.
Tip: After loosening a valve's adjustment screw, insert the desired feeler gauge and gently tighten the screw until there is a slight drag. Then tighten locknut. Will save some time and guessing by tightening to the gauge. Tip: Clamp a vise grip pliers to your screwdriver if you don't have that nifty tool. Use a screwdriver that wedges well into the adjustment slots.
Some more tips: A box end wrench and a good screw driver used together work well. As this video emphasizes, it is very important to double-check your work, both after you tighten each nut down and again after you have finished the last set of valves. You can set a valve incorrectly just by a burr or a scratch on your feeler gauge, so rotating the crank shaft several times and then going through and re-measuring everything again is a good idea. Finally, keep your tools reasonably clean. Don't use gritty or scratched up feeler gauges on your engine. Jus' sayin'.
Huge thanks from Australia here. Replaced the gasket and set the valves over the weekend on my daughter's civic. Your videos are by far the best and easiest to follow. She just passed rego today with no more oil leaks 👍
Thanks, Danny, for another great video. I did this and cleaned the injectors on my 2006 Civic at the same time. Taking the cowl out helped for both jobs. It made a big difference. I have two suggestions for videos that would be very useful to Civic owners: 1) the notorious sunvisors; 2) all the little plastic clips. I've even struggled with figuring out part numbers with the Honda Parts guy. What they are, numbers, and, of course, aftermarket suggestions to save money on this little plastic parts the dealer charges too much for would be very useful.
Thank you so much for this video. I didn't have to research for hours on how to do this. Did the intake and exhaust valves, all of which were out of spec on my 07 civic. It runs smooth as butter. The information you put on this video is spot on, thank you.
You adjust valve stem clearances to keep your valves from being damaged and to keep your engine running optimally (see below). The internet shows multiple references saying that if your engine has mechanical valve lifters, then you should consider adjusting them about every 50,000 miles to keep your engine in optimal condition. Even if you choose a longer interval, adjusting them every 100,000 miles is a good idea. Damage: The primary reason to adjust valve stem clearances is that if they are set too tight, they stay open longer than they are supposed to. Valves, especially exhaust valves, cool in part by dissipating heat through the valve seat while they are closed (which is about 3/4ths of the time--valves open 1 out of 4 strokes, right?). They can get excessively hot and warp or even melt at the edges if they stay open longer than they are supposed to. Maintaining optimum: The second reason to adjust valve stem clearances is that the engine was designed to open and close valves at specific times. The engine runs better and smoother, and is a lot quieter if the valves are set correctly. By the way, most of that sewing machine sound coming from the top of a Honda engine is the valve stems and rockers clicking together as they open and close, so a soft rhythmic snicking noise from the area is quite normal.
I have a euro spec R18A2. My car is now on 141k miles, I've done the valve adjustment twice in my 70k ownership. To rotate the engine, I jack up front of car, put it in gear and turn the one of the front roadwheels. Also worth mentioning you need to apply some high temp RTV to the corner of valve cover and leave a few hours on reassembly. Finally, it was a good video but it would have been useful for the less mechanically minded to state the exhaust valves are nearer the front of the car.
After you adjust your valves, you are done, doesn’t matter on timing chain position, I would rotate the engine a few times and recheck the clearance, just for peace of mind
I think My honda civic 2012 (fb) needs this. It consumes gas like crazy unlike when I got it from a used dealership 2 years ago. Had it heavily serviced by changing fluids but it got worse lol.
One of the best videos about this issue on this type of Honda. My car is the same model and generation with yours. Mine is at 143000 miles. I haven’t heard any weird sounds yet. In your video, even at 150000 miles, those valves still hold up really well. Do you think I should wait till I notice weird sounds or go ahead and have shops check it out at specific interval? This job is kinda beyond my ability. :))
As mine were only slightly out of adjustment, I would say you can wait, this is my opinion and based off my Civics findings, I also did a valve adjustment video on a Honda Element at 125k miles and that needed it, but that’s a different engine. Hopefully this helps you determine what’s right for you.
@@dannysdiygarage Thanks so much for taking your time to answer my concerns. Really appreciated. I will wait and see as my car hasn’t had any issues yet. Still good gas mileage, no noise, no CEL. One of your videos about changing ATF and Strainer on Honda Civic helped me a lot. I changed them already. But for this valve job, I think it’s better to leave it for professionals. :))
I did a valve adjustment on the Honda CBX six cylinder....24 valve. Obviously a completely different setup with shims in the lifters, but of the 24 valves, 12 needed adjustment, and of the 12, 9 were exhaust. What does that say about exhaust valves?
@@dannysdiygarage and unfortunately I have a bad oil seal in #4 ...bet when I take the head off, it will be on the exhaust side. I've had the head off before....at least you don't have to take the engine out of the bike. 300 Honda parts all over my friends garage.....
Would have been a lot better if you would have shown the intake side adjustment. Why not? That being said, I did find this helpful and easy to understand. Thanks for making this video
Please sir can you give me the answer about the mesurement of valve adjustement in d15y3 engine (7 generation 1.5l) I see on youtube .007 inch = 0.16mm on intake and 0.23mm to the ext side Thanks for all what you do for us
Correct, Depending on how out of adjustment they become, drivability issues, engine light, misfire, bad gas mileage, rough or unstable idle, lack of performance or noisy engine
I have European version of Civic Tourer with R18A2 engine ,model year 2014 with only 45k miles on it. Honda service book say 28k valve check and adjust but I guess if engine runs smooth there is no point to open it and check. I guess no need for adjustement before 60-80k miles or until consumption changes or valves start tapping.
I have a big question and it is very confusing. I watched both of your videos honda element and honda civic valve adjusment. So which one is the exhaust valves and the intake? the ones on the back or the ones on the front? I just did this to my honda fit and its more noisy now. I truly think the adjustment I did is backwards.
So every car's location for the intake and exhaust might be different? I kinda realized that when I watched your honda Element valve adjusment video the intake was in the front and exhaust in the back then on this civic is the opposite exhaust in the front and intake in the back
Do you know how much I appreciate you? Just as Paul Merriman is for me on investments education, you are my go-to for taking care of my nearly 300k 07 Civic. You paid attention to the quality of your content and it is paying off. Thank you.
I’m not sure what information you’re looking for, it automatically adjusts as it wears, if it’s not causing issues it should be good for the life of the engine
Great comment! I worry about valves being too tight rather then too loose, you can’t here tight valves and they can cause engine damage, knowing my valves are adjusted perfectly is peace of mind for me,
Hi So my civic is a bit noisy from the engine when its hot and sounds way quieter when its a cold start I am thinking its the valves adjustment that needs to be done since the sound is a tapping one Am i right? Should i go for it? What else should I expect to gain from valves adjustment Also i have noticed its a bit high on fuel in local traffic and wayy better on long routes with some degree of struggle when going uphill But that may be the prosmatic transmission Many thanks
what year is the civic ?, I have a 2013 with 45k ..oil canges when the reminder comes on at about 5% or so left, usually about 6k miles intervals..with mobil1 .
good video. i really do wish you had shown at least one set on intake valves though. from your video alone, i cant even tell how to get to the intake. otherwise this video would have been perfect
Danny when you say not all vehicles need this, do Honda Accords with 102k miles need it? It Runs great Not sure what drivability issues would include ?
Hey Danny can you make a video showing us how to replace the timing chain on the Honda ? I would really appreciate it I've been learning how to fix cars and Hondas are my cars. My mom got a 2010 Honda Civic.... With the Lord's help I was able to replace the power steering pump that was leaking on it ? She got a lot of miles on a vehicle..... So I want to know how to change the timing belt..... So I can be ready before the time comes for.it. IT WILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED IT THANK YOU BROTHER DANNY !.... OH YEAH JESUS CHRIST THE WAY !
You dont explain which are the exhaust and intake valves. Also, you don't explain the order of adjustment either consecutively from left to right or according to firing order. Which is the number one cylinder, two, three and four? And which is the firing order for this 1.8L... you do not show it visually.
@@dannysdiygarageDanny, you did a wonderful job - if a person can’t figure out the row of valves on the exhaust manifold/catalytic converter side of the engine are exhaust valves and the row of valves on the throttle body, air intake and intake manifold side of the engine are intake valves, then they will not have the capability to perform this job.
I appreciate you supporting me on this, I understand I’m dealing with different levels of technical skill, I always try to straddle that fine line between not being to technical and not starting from the introduction, I should have mentioned exactly what you said, it’s a simple few sentences, I forgot, but everyone who watch definitely get more then they pay for, right, I give free advice and education ( some people still complain)
Great information, I’m expecting to get there also, I suggest watching some of my videos and doing maintenance like PCV valve, this will keep your car running for many more years, thanks for posting
The fact that Honda Civics need a valve adjustment is an obscenity. I haven't had a car that needed manual valve adjustment in 30- years, but lo and behold, these darn Hondas need one. What is Honda thinking?
Probably because you have had push rod engines with hydraulic lifters that rid on the cam and the lifter can absorb a fair variation of lash. When I built my Gen 4 GM v8 with a bigger camshaft and Cadilac race lifters.. any variation that was outside of spec with the depth of preload on the lifters had to be solved with DIFFERENT LENGTH PUSHRODS! Hows that for a beloved engine not requiring valve adjustment? If you look how the valve train in these honds work, there is not spring loaded hydraulic rollers of any kind, nor do i see it being possible to add such an idea. The tech in the honda valve train may require valve adjustment but it also makes it possible to have a engine with great low end street manners, but also has a second cam profile that it switches too instantly while operating that gives the engine "big cam" high rpm power. Uts a give and a take. Adjusting valves is not difficult enough to throw a fit over. Not for the big positives these engines deliever
@@Nicholas-im8bd I've had engines, other than pushrod V8s, that didn't require valve adjustments, including engines from Nissan V6, GM V6, Ford V6, Kawasaki i4, BMW V8, Toyota i4, BMW i6, VW i4, & Ford V8. None of these engines required a manual valve adjustment. Some had overhead camshafts, some had pushrods. It turns out the necessity to adjust valve lash isn't limited to the Civic, apparently the Accord is the same. Thanks for the information regarding needing to change pushrods to compensate for extreme wear, but even replacing pushrods isn't all that bad. I can understand some of the benefits to having manually adjustable valves, but manufacturers have widely eschewed that technology for the benefits of less maintenance & longer maintenance intervals. I don't know which is more likely, a valve adjustment where the lock nut slacks off or a bad lifter. Whichever the case, I was still astounded when I found out a "tune up" meant adjusting the valves. Thank goodness I've done such work many times in the past, so the issue didn't cause a roadblock, I just found it astounding. Thanks for the input.
@@Nicholas-im8bd What do you mean the Honda engine has a "second cam profile?" AFAIK, the 1.8l Civic, which is what I adjusted, has not modern valve tech, like variable valve timing & the like. What am I missing?
@@salvadormonella8953 You doing look hard enough. there is a third lobe between the lobe that operates the rockers that open the valve. Depending on the engine model the activation point varys, but there is a solenoid that puts oil pressure into the rocker arms through a passage that leads to these small dowels. these dowel then move over locking the two rocker arms to the center rocker that is riding on the alternative cam profile. If you drove one of the performance orientated engines, you would find they NOTICEABLY pick up power at a certain rpm... this is due to this cam profile. As i understand, the r18 in the late model civic had a more effeciency based profile and activation profile in it rather than performance profiles. Its neat stuff you should research it
@@Nicholas-im8bd Well, $hit, you're learnin' me, then. I didn't notice anything exotic in there, other than the forest of valves, 16 of them, requiring me to check 16 clearance lashes. I had no manual, or instructions. Thankfully Honda labelled the valve sprocket to orient me to "true north." I did NOT notice any advanced variable valve timing voodoo, but then again it mighta been staring right at me and I didn't notice because such wizardry is so foreign, after-all. I will say this about Honda: Honda used to be my customer. In the late 2000s I had Honda, Toyota (both HQ in Torrance, CA), Mazda (Irvine, CA), & GM (El Segunda, CA) at the same time. Honda looks at themselves as an ENGINE company. They make ENGINES. The other stuff, the car body, or motorcycle frame, or generator cage, or lawn mower cutter, or whatever other parts are required to make a useful product only exist so that Honda can sell the engine. They DO NOT see themselves as a car (or motorcycle, or whatever) company. They make engines. The other stuff just helps them to sell the engine. This is very different from Toyota, who view themselves as a car company. Also, the U.S. Honda folks, unlike the U.S. Toyota folks, have very little autonomy. Japan calls the shots. All day, constantly,, dictatorially, to the great displeasure of the U.S. managerial team. Friction city, personnel-wise. In their lobby they have two race cars with tiny engines that produce a supernatural amount of power for the displacement. So, I guess I'm not surprised by variable valve timing, or variable valve lift, or whatever they have in there. I am still somewhat surprised by the very manual valve-adjustment at tune-up time. I also wonder; since Honda is so very married to the notion that they make engines (and the ancillary parts needed to sell those engines0, how will their psyche & zeitgeist change when electric motors dominate vehicles and Honda loses all those decades of development and engineering intelligence. The U.S. team is already miserable. Once they lose their reason de etre, the ICE, I imagine they will have a sort of collective psychological crisis. My first vehicle was a Honda. A Honda 90. I've had others, mostly motorcycles, so I'm not agin' Honda, but I will eagerly take on one of them contemporary NSXs in my Corvette, with its pushrod V8, any day of the week. There is no replacement for displacement. Thanks for the education. Keep the rubber side down. ;-)
Followed your instructions to clean the throttle body and adjust the valves on my 2010 civic with 147k miles. Several valves were a little loose and a couple on the tight side. Engine is now running smooth and no more slight tapping noise from the valves. I was going to replace the transmission filter while I had the air filter box removed. Surprise, no filter on my 2010. Maybe it's hidden away somewhere else. Thanks for all your fantastic maintenance and upgrade videos.
Appreciate your success story
Did it improve your MPG ?
@@leftonseen690 it made no difference that I could see, good peace of mind knowing it’s done though
mine has 158k and has been doing it for a while now, ngl scared to do it but i wanna do it.
@@leftonseen690 not sure about that. Immediately after I was getting 29mpg, but I hadn't performed the throttle relearn. It was idling at around 1600. I did the throttle relearn and that brought the idle down to around 700 and I got around 32 mpg on the first tank after fixing the idle.
You are one of the best teachers on RUclips. You make it simple.
Thank you
Tip: After loosening a valve's adjustment screw, insert the desired feeler gauge and gently tighten the screw until there is a slight drag. Then tighten locknut. Will save some time and guessing by tightening to the gauge.
Tip: Clamp a vise grip pliers to your screwdriver if you don't have that nifty tool. Use a screwdriver that wedges well into the adjustment slots.
Thanks for adding this information appreciated
Some more tips:
A box end wrench and a good screw driver used together work well.
As this video emphasizes, it is very important to double-check your work, both after you tighten each nut down and again after you have finished the last set of valves. You can set a valve incorrectly just by a burr or a scratch on your feeler gauge, so rotating the crank shaft several times and then going through and re-measuring everything again is a good idea.
Finally, keep your tools reasonably clean. Don't use gritty or scratched up feeler gauges on your engine. Jus' sayin'.
Thank you for commenting and adding tips for others, I appreciate it and so do others
Sure wish that there was a link to the nifty valve tool .
@@Drock8003any parts store can hook you up with one
Huge thanks from Australia here. Replaced the gasket and set the valves over the weekend on my daughter's civic. Your videos are by far the best and easiest to follow. She just passed rego today with no more oil leaks 👍
Fantastic! Glad they helped, I appreciate your support 👍🏼
Thanks, Danny, for another great video. I did this and cleaned the injectors on my 2006 Civic at the same time. Taking the cowl out helped for both jobs. It made a big difference. I have two suggestions for videos that would be very useful to Civic owners: 1) the notorious sunvisors; 2) all the little plastic clips. I've even struggled with figuring out part numbers with the Honda Parts guy. What they are, numbers, and, of course, aftermarket suggestions to save money on this little plastic parts the dealer charges too much for would be very useful.
Thank you so much for this video. I didn't have to research for hours on how to do this. Did the intake and exhaust valves, all of which were out of spec on my 07 civic. It runs smooth as butter. The information you put on this video is spot on, thank you.
Glad to hear it helped you out! Thanks for your support
You adjust valve stem clearances to keep your valves from being damaged and to keep your engine running optimally (see below). The internet shows multiple references saying that if your engine has mechanical valve lifters, then you should consider adjusting them about every 50,000 miles to keep your engine in optimal condition. Even if you choose a longer interval, adjusting them every 100,000 miles is a good idea.
Damage: The primary reason to adjust valve stem clearances is that if they are set too tight, they stay open longer than they are supposed to. Valves, especially exhaust valves, cool in part by dissipating heat through the valve seat while they are closed (which is about 3/4ths of the time--valves open 1 out of 4 strokes, right?). They can get excessively hot and warp or even melt at the edges if they stay open longer than they are supposed to.
Maintaining optimum: The second reason to adjust valve stem clearances is that the engine was designed to open and close valves at specific times. The engine runs better and smoother, and is a lot quieter if the valves are set correctly. By the way, most of that sewing machine sound coming from the top of a Honda engine is the valve stems and rockers clicking together as they open and close, so a soft rhythmic snicking noise from the area is quite normal.
Thanks Joe for adding additional information ❤️
I've got 83k on a 2009...great video explaining this. Not even sure it needed to be done at 150k. Good to know.
Sir, thank you for your insights and easy to understand tutorials.
You’re welcome, more videos coming up
My engine is clicking loudly, I lose power around 3k rpms and don’t have good acceleration. Could this be my issue?
I have a euro spec R18A2. My car is now on 141k miles, I've done the valve adjustment twice in my 70k ownership. To rotate the engine, I jack up front of car, put it in gear and turn the one of the front roadwheels. Also worth mentioning you need to apply some high temp RTV to the corner of valve cover and leave a few hours on reassembly. Finally, it was a good video but it would have been useful for the less mechanically minded to state the exhaust valves are nearer the front of the car.
Great feedback, appreciate your input 👍🏼
Great explanation on the feel for the clearances. Thank you.
Appreciate your comment
If they are on the loose side, will they need adjustment sooner?
I haven’t adjusted the valves in my ‘08 civic LX. It Only has 423,000 miles on it. What do you think?
After you adjust all your valves and ready to put it back together what point do you set the timing chain at
After you adjust your valves, you are done, doesn’t matter on timing chain position, I would rotate the engine a few times and recheck the clearance, just for peace of mind
Man I can't get enough of your videos. Keep them up. Do the valve nuts need to be torqued?
There is a torque spec 10lbft
I think My honda civic 2012 (fb) needs this. It consumes gas like crazy unlike when I got it from a used dealership 2 years ago. Had it heavily serviced by changing fluids but it got worse lol.
Update the channel, let us know if it fixed it
One of the best videos about this issue on this type of Honda. My car is the same model and generation with yours. Mine is at 143000 miles. I haven’t heard any weird sounds yet. In your video, even at 150000 miles, those valves still hold up really well. Do you think I should wait till I notice weird sounds or go ahead and have shops check it out at specific interval? This job is kinda beyond my ability. :))
As mine were only slightly out of adjustment, I would say you can wait, this is my opinion and based off my Civics findings, I also did a valve adjustment video on a Honda Element at 125k miles and that needed it, but that’s a different engine. Hopefully this helps you determine what’s right for you.
@@dannysdiygarage Thanks so much for taking your time to answer my concerns. Really appreciated. I will wait and see as my car hasn’t had any issues yet. Still good gas mileage, no noise, no CEL. One of your videos about changing ATF and Strainer on Honda Civic helped me a lot. I changed them already. But for this valve job, I think it’s better to leave it for professionals. :))
At what mileage do you recommend adjusting the valves. ?
100k
I have the Civic hybrid 1.3 ima 2006. Do you know if this procedure works for the LDA2 engine too? thanks
I did a valve adjustment on the Honda CBX six cylinder....24 valve. Obviously a completely different setup with shims in the lifters, but of the 24 valves, 12 needed adjustment, and of the 12, 9 were exhaust. What does that say about exhaust valves?
Exhaust valve run hotter then intake
@@dannysdiygarage and unfortunately I have a bad oil seal in #4 ...bet when I take the head off, it will be on the exhaust side. I've had the head off before....at least you don't have to take the engine out of the bike. 300 Honda parts all over my friends garage.....
Would have been a lot better if you would have shown the intake side adjustment. Why not? That being said, I did find this helpful and easy to understand. Thanks for making this video
Please sir can you give me the answer about the mesurement of valve adjustement in d15y3 engine (7 generation 1.5l)
I see on youtube .007 inch = 0.16mm on intake and 0.23mm to the ext side
Thanks for all what you do for us
Hi,
Do you have any info what are the valve clearance values for Honda Civic R16A2 engine? This engine is for the 8th generation 1.6 Civic Sedan.
Year and model vehicle with VIN and I’ll look it up
This engine is very similar than the 1.8 engine
Sorry I cannot find any information on this vehicle , the ID number doesn’t come up, is this a US car?
This is an Europian model.
Do you have any idea where I can get any info regarding this?
I would go on the civic forums join and ask that question make sure you give all the information
What performance issue will we feel if the valves are not adjusted properly? Will it cause the check engine light to come on? Will the engine hesitate
Correct, Depending on how out of adjustment they become, drivability issues, engine light, misfire, bad gas mileage, rough or unstable idle, lack of performance or noisy engine
How would they get tighter before adjusting them
As they wear, they can loose clearance. You would need to know how valve work, theirs probably many videos explaining the process 👍🏼
Hello, is there a torque for locknuts??
Thanks
I have European version of Civic Tourer with R18A2 engine ,model year 2014 with only 45k miles on it. Honda service book say 28k valve check and adjust but I guess if engine runs smooth there is no point to open it and check. I guess no need for adjustement before 60-80k miles or until consumption changes or valves start tapping.
I would wait till 100k, a lot of times the valves tighten up, not loosen,
I have a big question and it is very confusing. I watched both of your videos honda element and honda civic valve adjusment. So which one is the exhaust valves and the intake? the ones on the back or the ones on the front? I just did this to my honda fit and its more noisy now. I truly think the adjustment I did is backwards.
Intake valves are closest to the intake manifold, exhaust valves are closer to the exhaust manifold, on this car exhaust is in the front of the car
So every car's location for the intake and exhaust might be different? I kinda realized that when I watched your honda Element valve adjusment video the intake was in the front and exhaust in the back then on this civic is the opposite exhaust in the front and intake in the back
I wish you had shown one example of intake valve adjustment. They're more challenging to do since you're right up against the cowl.
I discovered later that removing the cowl would make this a lot easier, here is a link on removing the cowl ruclips.net/video/Scukh_qZ3FQ/видео.html
You’re on your own. He did mention it a few times.
@@tomrobinson7879yeah and he wishes he wasn’t on his own :-)
Do you know how much I appreciate you? Just as Paul Merriman is for me on investments education, you are my go-to for taking care of my nearly 300k 07 Civic. You paid attention to the quality of your content and it is paying off. Thank you.
what is the tools size u use to adjust the valves with the flathead screw drivers? also do u know the intake and exhaust spec for honda hrv 2020?
10mm sorry for the delay, this comment never showed up
do you know the valve clearance spec adjustment for 2020 hrv?@@dannysdiygarage
@@dannysdiygarage I was just searching the comments for this as well. I also have a Honda HRV and couldn't find if I needed a 10m or 12mm tool.
How hard are the intake valves the shroud in place? Should I remove that first?
Once the valves cover is removed everything is fairly easy to get to
Thanks 🙏 you’re awesome man
Happy to help
I’m finding little no info on timing chain adjustment or replacement…the car sounds fine, just curious. It’s an 08 I bought new now w/230k miles.
I’m not sure what information you’re looking for, it automatically adjusts as it wears, if it’s not causing issues it should be good for the life of the engine
That’s what I wanted to know, my bro had suggested at least having a look at it and checking valves, it still runs fine….just making sure.👍
Keep good oil in it and you shouldn't have to worry
Will this video work for my 2016 Honda Civic thank you so much
It should
What socket size did you used to rotate the alternator?
I believe it was 22mm
Unless the valves are noisy. I don’t see how adjusting it .0001 will really do much.
Great comment! I worry about valves being too tight rather then too loose, you can’t here tight valves and they can cause engine damage, knowing my valves are adjusted perfectly is peace of mind for me,
Hi
So my civic is a bit noisy from the engine when its hot and sounds way quieter when its a cold start
I am thinking its the valves adjustment that needs to be done since the sound is a tapping one
Am i right?
Should i go for it?
What else should I expect to gain from valves adjustment
Also i have noticed its a bit high on fuel in local traffic and wayy better on long routes with some degree of struggle when going uphill
But that may be the prosmatic transmission
Many thanks
Sounds like this might be the case, you’ll gain better running and better performance which will allow better mileage good luck.
Just did my Accord @177k miles. They were pretty darn close to spec.
great to have that peace of mind knowing there good at that mileage, right?
what year is the civic ?, I have a 2013 with 45k ..oil canges when the reminder comes on at about 5% or so left, usually about 6k miles intervals..with mobil1 .
I own two 2009’s original owner also 2007 Honda Element also original owner
good video. i really do wish you had shown at least one set on intake valves though. from your video alone, i cant even tell how to get to the intake. otherwise this video would have been perfect
Great Video, Sir can you post the part number on tool to adjust valves, Thks
This one works good Powerbuilt 10 Millimeter Honda... www.amazon.com/dp/B073WH1DBZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Thank you. very informative. I hope i dont mess up on the intake valves ;)
What's the valve clearance on a 2015 honda civic
2015 Civic cold. 0.21- 0.25mm ( 0.009-in) for intake and 0.25-0.29 mm (0.010- 0.011 in) exhaust good luck
Thanks bro,fixing to get on it.
Nice demo. V good explanation.
Thanks, I try to give as much information as possible without talking to much, your feedback is really helpful for future video production,
Thank you
sorry if I have missed it, but is there a torque spec on re-tightening the lock nut?
If I remember correctly the torque spec is14ftLB
Use setting "SF" on your wrench; this is the "sufficiently tight" setting.
How long should complete valve adjustment take? Honda dealership quoted me about 4.5 hours
If it’s your 1st time, 4 to 6, depending on your mileage you may only find exhaust out of adjustment
4.5 hours??? 😂😂😂 It can be done in 2h if you are good enough.
is the valve adjustment same for civic 2018 L15b7 turbo charged engine intake 0.007-0.009 and for exhaust 0.010-0.011
I'm really not sure. I can look it up if I have your complete vin number, engine size
Hi. Why you removed spark plugs? is it absolutely necessary?
The engine will spin much easier with the plugs out, it makes everything easier
I'm trying to find the fuel pressure regulator!
It's inside the tank inside the pump basket
Danny when you say not all vehicles need this, do Honda Accords with 102k miles need it? It Runs great
Not sure what drivability issues would include ?
Yes, depending on the year, this engine is similar to the Honda Element, watch my Honda Element video for information
Great video, Danny. Thank you!
Thanks
You said you'd put a link to the adjustment tool in the description? :)
Powerbuilt 10 Milimeter Honda Jam Nut Valve Tool - 648827 a.co/d/abj6gCq
awesome video
Thank you, for taking the time to comment 👍🏼
Hey Danny can you make a video showing us how to replace the timing chain on the Honda ? I would really appreciate it I've been learning how to fix cars and Hondas are my cars. My mom got a 2010 Honda Civic.... With the Lord's help I was able to replace the power steering pump that was leaking on it ? She got a lot of miles on a vehicle..... So I want to know how to change the timing belt..... So I can be ready before the time comes for.it. IT WILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED IT THANK YOU BROTHER DANNY !.... OH YEAH JESUS CHRIST THE WAY !
The 8th generation civic has a chain and not a belt, it usually doesn’t require replacement
Perfect! Thank you sir 👍
You’re welcome and I appreciate your comment
great teaching skill, tks
Thank you👍🏼
Still have a link to the valve adjustment tool?
Schley Products Valve Adjustment Tool 10Mm Jam Nut www.amazon.com/dp/B004W8EYLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_P7XVGTNJSGW71MAT4NTG
Never knew they had a tool. Cool.
Excellent. Thanks!
You’re welcome, thanks for commenting
Nice video.. very usefull
Thank you for commenting
I appreciate the feedback
Personally, I would not use different gauges even if its within spec - I would use same gauge on one side and anther on other side
You dont explain which are the exhaust and intake valves. Also, you don't explain the order of adjustment either consecutively from left to right or according to firing order. Which is the number one cylinder, two, three and four? And which is the firing order for this 1.8L... you do not show it visually.
Sorry about that, I’ll need to do better in future videos.
@@dannysdiygarageDanny, you did a wonderful job - if a person can’t figure out the row of valves on the exhaust manifold/catalytic converter side of the engine are exhaust valves and the row of valves on the throttle body, air intake and intake manifold side of the engine are intake valves, then they will not have the capability to perform this job.
I appreciate you supporting me on this, I understand I’m dealing with different levels of technical skill, I always try to straddle that fine line between not being to technical and not starting from the introduction, I should have mentioned exactly what you said, it’s a simple few sentences, I forgot, but everyone who watch definitely get more then they pay for, right, I give free advice and education ( some people still complain)
should number the valves and also label which is the intake and exhaust for us noobs
I got 360000 kms on a 2008 civic dxg , first owner , still never burns any oil , runs like new , never f.... with valves
Great information, I’m expecting to get there also, I suggest watching some of my videos and doing maintenance like PCV valve, this will keep your car running for many more years, thanks for posting
ruclips.net/video/glltxejn10k/видео.htmlsi=Cv0oG7NdxFMArAM9
See man thats the thing i know so many honda owners who never touch the valves and they have so many miles on their engines
The fact that Honda Civics need a valve adjustment is an obscenity. I haven't had a car that needed manual valve adjustment in 30- years, but lo and behold, these darn Hondas need one. What is Honda thinking?
Probably because you have had push rod engines with hydraulic lifters that rid on the cam and the lifter can absorb a fair variation of lash. When I built my Gen 4 GM v8 with a bigger camshaft and Cadilac race lifters.. any variation that was outside of spec with the depth of preload on the lifters had to be solved with DIFFERENT LENGTH PUSHRODS! Hows that for a beloved engine not requiring valve adjustment?
If you look how the valve train in these honds work, there is not spring loaded hydraulic rollers of any kind, nor do i see it being possible to add such an idea. The tech in the honda valve train may require valve adjustment but it also makes it possible to have a engine with great low end street manners, but also has a second cam profile that it switches too instantly while operating that gives the engine "big cam" high rpm power. Uts a give and a take. Adjusting valves is not difficult enough to throw a fit over. Not for the big positives these engines deliever
@@Nicholas-im8bd I've had engines, other than pushrod V8s, that didn't require valve adjustments, including engines from Nissan V6, GM V6, Ford V6, Kawasaki i4, BMW V8, Toyota i4, BMW i6, VW i4, & Ford V8. None of these engines required a manual valve adjustment. Some had overhead camshafts, some had pushrods. It turns out the necessity to adjust valve lash isn't limited to the Civic, apparently the Accord is the same. Thanks for the information regarding needing to change pushrods to compensate for extreme wear, but even replacing pushrods isn't all that bad. I can understand some of the benefits to having manually adjustable valves, but manufacturers have widely eschewed that technology for the benefits of less maintenance & longer maintenance intervals. I don't know which is more likely, a valve adjustment where the lock nut slacks off or a bad lifter. Whichever the case, I was still astounded when I found out a "tune up" meant adjusting the valves. Thank goodness I've done such work many times in the past, so the issue didn't cause a roadblock, I just found it astounding. Thanks for the input.
@@Nicholas-im8bd What do you mean the Honda engine has a "second cam profile?" AFAIK, the 1.8l Civic, which is what I adjusted, has not modern valve tech, like variable valve timing & the like. What am I missing?
@@salvadormonella8953 You doing look hard enough. there is a third lobe between the lobe that operates the rockers that open the valve. Depending on the engine model the activation point varys, but there is a solenoid that puts oil pressure into the rocker arms through a passage that leads to these small dowels. these dowel then move over locking the two rocker arms to the center rocker that is riding on the alternative cam profile. If you drove one of the performance orientated engines, you would find they NOTICEABLY pick up power at a certain rpm... this is due to this cam profile. As i understand, the r18 in the late model civic had a more effeciency based profile and activation profile in it rather than performance profiles.
Its neat stuff you should research it
@@Nicholas-im8bd Well, $hit, you're learnin' me, then. I didn't notice anything exotic in there, other than the forest of valves, 16 of them, requiring me to check 16 clearance lashes. I had no manual, or instructions. Thankfully Honda labelled the valve sprocket to orient me to "true north." I did NOT notice any advanced variable valve timing voodoo, but then again it mighta been staring right at me and I didn't notice because such wizardry is so foreign, after-all. I will say this about Honda: Honda used to be my customer. In the late 2000s I had Honda, Toyota (both HQ in Torrance, CA), Mazda (Irvine, CA), & GM (El Segunda, CA) at the same time. Honda looks at themselves as an ENGINE company. They make ENGINES. The other stuff, the car body, or motorcycle frame, or generator cage, or lawn mower cutter, or whatever other parts are required to make a useful product only exist so that Honda can sell the engine. They DO NOT see themselves as a car (or motorcycle, or whatever) company. They make engines. The other stuff just helps them to sell the engine. This is very different from Toyota, who view themselves as a car company. Also, the U.S. Honda folks, unlike the U.S. Toyota folks, have very little autonomy. Japan calls the shots. All day, constantly,, dictatorially, to the great displeasure of the U.S. managerial team. Friction city, personnel-wise. In their lobby they have two race cars with tiny engines that produce a supernatural amount of power for the displacement. So, I guess I'm not surprised by variable valve timing, or variable valve lift, or whatever they have in there. I am still somewhat surprised by the very manual valve-adjustment at tune-up time. I also wonder; since Honda is so very married to the notion that they make engines (and the ancillary parts needed to sell those engines0, how will their psyche & zeitgeist change when electric motors dominate vehicles and Honda loses all those decades of development and engineering intelligence. The U.S. team is already miserable. Once they lose their reason de etre, the ICE, I imagine they will have a sort of collective psychological crisis. My first vehicle was a Honda. A Honda 90. I've had others, mostly motorcycles, so I'm not agin' Honda, but I will eagerly take on one of them contemporary NSXs in my Corvette, with its pushrod V8, any day of the week. There is no replacement for displacement. Thanks for the education. Keep the rubber side down. ;-)