Sorry for the delayed response; I've been out of town. You will need a wrench set suited for your vehicle, hammer, most likely a torch; you won't need what I have; a small propane one will work; it will just take a little longer. A jack and safety stand of some sort, brake cleaner, and mostly, patients. Hope that helps; thanks for watching.
Nice work, You can use the old brake pad to help compress the pistons, you can open the master cylinder cap to allow the fluid to help return. Anti seize the greatest investment
When you beat anything piloted on a hub=small engine flywheel or pulley, Brake rotor or drum, or even a stuck wheel - try and use two or three different weight forged (Plumb) ball peen whammers on it. The whole thing is to make the lighter less sturdy part vibrate like the science experiment with sugar on a steel plate having a fiddle bow drawn across its edge. You want it to vibrate two or three different patterns if possible. You have to oil the stuck place and patiently whomp with it with light-ish, medium and heavy-ish hammers. If it just refuses then step up to an actually heavy hammer that weighs about half as much as the thing you're bashing. Then - by the time you get genuinely angry and curse it the part will then fall off while you have your back turned catching your breath.
You need to use a metal hammer beating the old rotor off, probably would have popped right off, the plastic hammer is just absorbing the impact instead of jarring it. You can also use one of the old brake pads when compressing the pistons with the C clamp.
Hi JD. The hammer is a dead-blow and is quite effective to deliver the force; Why I don't use a steel hammer is the shock load to the wheel speed sensor, you are not supposed to us an impact-wrench on the uni-bearing due to that fact. I had not considered using the old brake pad, thanks for the tip. Thanks for watching and commenting, I do appreciate it.
I did the same last summer if memory serves. And believe I was probably over 75k miles. But I introduced my own bafoonery by flipping the brake pads the wrong way. Sure could have used this video! Eventually I figured it out. Fine job.
The dealer advised me to have the brakes done at 50k, from what I saw I probably could have made 75k and the rear look almost new. This was one of the easier brake jobs I've done, everything came apart and went together without drama. My daughter starts driving class's tonight, gotta get started rebuilding the old Jeep Gand C. for her. Thanks for watching.
Hi Rickey, glad you like it, and that it will be helpful, that's what YT is best for. I gotta say, the brake job on my truck was about as easy as I have ever done. Looks like I'll be doing the rear brakes in a couple of months, 80K on the clock and their still the original rear pads, not to bad! The front I did at 65K, Ford definitely built it right. Just curious, how do you like your truck? Thanks for watching and your kind remarks, they are always appreciated. F.Y.I. My daughter and I will be doing a resto-mod on a 95 Jeep that I purchased for my wife many years ago, It's been an excellent Jeep, and it will be my daughter's first vehicle. I will be posting the progress videos as we work through the project, the plan is to have it ready for her when she turns 16 in May. If your interested, stay tuned.
Use blue threadlocker on caliper mounting bolts, use anti-seize between spindle and the rotor, so you can remove the rotor next time without using a torch, and why not use all new hardware?
Hi Leonard. The original bolts didn't have thread-locker, so I don't use it. I usually don't use anti-seize on the hub because you want the frictional force holding the hub-disk-wheel interface as secure as possible, anti-seize would reduce that force, putting more stress on the lug bolts; As for the hardware, the original clips were in perfect condition and didn't need replacing, it was a judgment call on my part, one that I am comfortable with. This was the first brake job for my truck, and the first time the disk had been removed, the need for heat was not unexpected, I most likely will be trading in this truck before the next brake job will be needed. Thanks for watching and commenting, I do appreciate the feedback. F.Y.I. My daughter and I will be doing a resto-mod on a 95 Jeep that I purchased new for my wife, It's been an excellent Jeep, and it will be my daughter's first vehicle. I will be posting the progress as we work through the project, the plan is to have it ready for her when she turns 16 in May. If your interested, stay tuned.
I cut anything sugar, no carbs like pasta, bread, etc, bumped up the protein and added more greens, it's interesting that I have a craving for pasta and bread, that was unexpected. Next target, 230 by the end of June.
Curious what you got out of the rears. On my 2018 my rears were gone bad at 55k and now at 70k about to do the fronts. The new electronic brake and traction control uses the rear brakes a lot more now. But I’ve heard rear replacement in a wide range of mileages and maybe that is just driver related.
Excellent video and love the use of two angles at once (also speeding up through the repetitive process). Can you tell me what jack you used to lift the vehicle?
Hi Scott, glad you like it; I'm continually trying to improve my videos, so thanks. The jack is just a straight old automotive-style floor jack; I purchased it ~20 years ago and don't remember where anymore. FYI, I'm doing the rear brakes this weekend, 89K on the originals, not bad. Thanks for watching and commenting, I do appreciate it.
Your not done ya got the other side to do. Then check the rear. Lol. First time I ever seen someone take a torch to the hub. I just hope your grease held up. And I’ve done a shit load of brake jobs. Use break grease on the sliders next time. Good job & video though Get -R- Done
Hi Russ, I didn't want to hammer on it, and I didn't have a puller so, the smoke wrench was my best option. I was careful not to heat the unit-bearing and applied heat only to the disk; If you look at @6:03, you will notice I used an IR temperature gun to monitor so as not to damage the bearing assm. and the wheel speed sensor. I can't remember if I lubed the slide pins; it would be my normal practice; I may have left that video clip out. Thanks for watching and commenting; I do appreciate it.
Great video! Just out of curiosity, I don’t own a blow torch and would likely have taken a sledgehammer to the rotors if they didn’t easily come off... would that damage anything assuming I had a clean tap? Looking to use this for my pads/rotors this weekend on my 2015 Lariat, thanks again!
Thanks, glad you liked the video; I hope it will be helpful. You should use a gear puller, but that can be an expensive tool if you don't use it a lot; I suggest you use a propane torch (like a plumber would use) but use MAP gas; it burns hotter, it will take a little longer to heat the rotor, but it will work. Never strike the wheel assembly or rotor with a hammer; it can damage the integrated speed sensor for your ABS brakes. How do you like your Lariat? Mine has been a great truck, the best I have ever owned. Thanks for watching.
@@SouthernEngineering Thanks for the recommendation, I'm glad I asked! I love the 2015 Lariat I currently have, my old 2005 F150 was very basic (didn't even have power windows) so I decided to treat myself and upgrade to pretty much all the bells and whistles that are available with the Lariat package. There are some features that you think you would never need/use and now I don't think I could ever go without. I use the 360 degree cameras routinely to park! The only thing I wouldn't recommend are the power running boards, I have had to replace the motors on both sides 3 times now but fortunately I bought the Premium Care warranty and it has been covered each time at the dealership... the Ohio winters are not ideal for power running boards at all.
@@sodedit I've had the running boards before; I agree they are not reliable, perhaps in the South but not in the snow and ice. I also have the premium care; it's money well spent and important if you're going to hold onto your truck a while. I'm not ready to trade it yet; the new 150s are nice, but not much has changed. I did order the new Bronco for my wife; I hope it will arrive soon.
Hi John. I got the number from my buddy, he's a Ford tech and works mostly on trucks; I called and confirmed with him after receiving your question; 184 is safely precise and a large number; you may very likely snap the bolt off, it could be a misprint. I take it you have an F-150, how long have you owned it, do you like it?
Hi GB. I have never done that, I do check to make sure they move freely and that the seals are intact; As long as they check ok I don't bother with them, this has been how I have always done it, however, if there is the slightest indication of uneven pad wear or stickiness then they will get replaced. Thanks for watching and commenting, I do appreciate it.
Hi I’m to these things, what are the equipments or tools I need to replace rotors, brake pads and anything that has to do with breaks.
Sorry for the delayed response; I've been out of town.
You will need a wrench set suited for your vehicle, hammer, most likely a torch; you won't need what I have; a small propane one will work; it will just take a little longer. A jack and safety stand of some sort, brake cleaner, and mostly, patients.
Hope that helps; thanks for watching.
Nice work, You can use the old brake pad to help compress the pistons, you can open the master cylinder cap to allow the fluid to help return. Anti seize the greatest investment
Good idea, I hadn't thought of that. I use anti-seize on almost every part of a vehicle, never fails to make life easy.
When you beat anything piloted on a hub=small engine flywheel or pulley, Brake rotor or drum, or even a stuck wheel - try and use two or three different weight forged (Plumb) ball peen whammers on it. The whole thing is to make the lighter less sturdy part vibrate like the science experiment with sugar on a steel plate having a fiddle bow drawn across its edge. You want it to vibrate two or three different patterns if possible.
You have to oil the stuck place and patiently whomp with it with light-ish, medium and heavy-ish hammers. If it just refuses then step up to an actually heavy hammer that weighs about half as much as the thing you're bashing. Then - by the time you get genuinely angry and curse it the part will then fall off while you have your back turned catching your breath.
Heat and beat. It worked great. Thanks for the help
The lug nuts should be 21mm the nuts have shitty caps that swell, thats why it takes the larger socket. One day they will strip on you
You need to use a metal hammer beating the old rotor off, probably would have popped right off, the plastic hammer is just absorbing the impact instead of jarring it. You can also use one of the old brake pads when compressing the pistons with the C clamp.
Hi JD. The hammer is a dead-blow and is quite effective to deliver the force; Why I don't use a steel hammer is the shock load to the wheel speed sensor, you are not supposed to us an impact-wrench on the uni-bearing due to that fact. I had not considered using the old brake pad, thanks for the tip.
Thanks for watching and commenting, I do appreciate it.
I did the same last summer if memory serves. And believe I was probably over 75k miles. But I introduced my own bafoonery by flipping the brake pads the wrong way. Sure could have used this video! Eventually I figured it out. Fine job.
The dealer advised me to have the brakes done at 50k, from what I saw I probably could have made 75k and the rear look almost new. This was one of the easier brake jobs I've done, everything came apart and went together without drama.
My daughter starts driving class's tonight, gotta get started rebuilding the old Jeep Gand C. for her.
Thanks for watching.
Great video. Love the different camera angles. Gonna change my rotors and brakes tomorrow and use your video
Hi Rickey, glad you like it, and that it will be helpful, that's what YT is best for. I gotta say, the brake job on my truck was about as easy as I have ever done. Looks like I'll be doing the rear brakes in a couple of months, 80K on the clock and their still the original rear pads, not to bad! The front I did at 65K, Ford definitely built it right.
Just curious, how do you like your truck?
Thanks for watching and your kind remarks, they are always appreciated.
F.Y.I. My daughter and I will be doing a resto-mod on a 95 Jeep that I purchased for my wife many years ago, It's been an excellent Jeep, and it will be my daughter's first vehicle. I will be posting the progress videos as we work through the project, the plan is to have it ready for her when she turns 16 in May. If your interested, stay tuned.
You need to whack that rotor a little harder and it was coming off! Close tho ! Great vid
My kind of job, it's got a hammer involved!
LOL, and FIRE!!!! gota have fire.
Thanks for watching.
Nice work man, last year i did the same on my car!
Thanks. Brakes can be easy or pain, these proved very easy.
Use blue threadlocker on caliper mounting bolts, use anti-seize between spindle and the rotor, so you can remove the rotor next time without using a torch, and why not use all new hardware?
Hi Leonard. The original bolts didn't have thread-locker, so I don't use it. I usually don't use anti-seize on the hub because you want the frictional force holding the hub-disk-wheel interface as secure as possible, anti-seize would reduce that force, putting more stress on the lug bolts;
As for the hardware, the original clips were in perfect condition and didn't need replacing, it was a judgment call on my part, one that I am comfortable with.
This was the first brake job for my truck, and the first time the disk had been removed, the need for heat was not unexpected, I most likely will be trading in this truck before the next brake job will be needed.
Thanks for watching and commenting, I do appreciate the feedback.
F.Y.I. My daughter and I will be doing a resto-mod on a 95 Jeep that I purchased new for my wife, It's been an excellent Jeep, and it will be my daughter's first vehicle. I will be posting the progress as we work through the project, the plan is to have it ready for her when she turns 16 in May. If your interested, stay tuned.
@@SouthernEngineering Thanks for reply.
Wow, nice job.
Thanks
My back hurts watching you!
I may be old and fat, but I can still wrestle a 100lb wheel and tire. 💪(working on the fat part lost 11lb so far)
@@SouthernEngineering good job buddy!!
@@marrazzowoodworkingdiy8118 thanks, 30lbs by fall. Seriously reduced carbs, steak, greens, and Bourbon 😁
@@SouthernEngineering you can do it. I cut out sugar about 20 months ago and lost 18 pounds without trying. So keep it up!!
I cut anything sugar, no carbs like pasta, bread, etc, bumped up the protein and added more greens, it's interesting that I have a craving for pasta and bread, that was unexpected. Next target, 230 by the end of June.
Whole lotta grunting goin on there
💪
After watching this video, it’s been determined that I need to get some kind of flamethrower...so I can at least do my brakes.
Curious what you got out of the rears. On my 2018 my rears were gone bad at 55k and now at 70k about to do the fronts. The new electronic brake and traction control uses the rear brakes a lot more now. But I’ve heard rear replacement in a wide range of mileages and maybe that is just driver related.
65000 miles yikes, mine have 137000 right now but changing them next week
Impressive numbers Duane, are they highway?
I just got 100k and recommended rotors and pads. Oem and wanted to see if they’re being honest.
Excellent video and love the use of two angles at once (also speeding up through the repetitive process). Can you tell me what jack you used to lift the vehicle?
Hi Scott, glad you like it; I'm continually trying to improve my videos, so thanks. The jack is just a straight old automotive-style floor jack; I purchased it ~20 years ago and don't remember where anymore.
FYI, I'm doing the rear brakes this weekend, 89K on the originals, not bad.
Thanks for watching and commenting, I do appreciate it.
Your not done ya got the other side to do. Then check the rear. Lol. First time I ever seen someone take a torch to the hub. I just hope your grease held up. And I’ve done a shit load of brake jobs. Use break grease on the sliders next time.
Good job & video though
Get -R- Done
Hi Russ, I didn't want to hammer on it, and I didn't have a puller so, the smoke wrench was my best option. I was careful not to heat the unit-bearing and applied heat only to the disk; If you look at @6:03, you will notice I used an IR temperature gun to monitor so as not to damage the bearing assm. and the wheel speed sensor.
I can't remember if I lubed the slide pins; it would be my normal practice; I may have left that video clip out.
Thanks for watching and commenting; I do appreciate it.
Thank you for the help!
Happy to help!
Great video! Just out of curiosity, I don’t own a blow torch and would likely have taken a sledgehammer to the rotors if they didn’t easily come off... would that damage anything assuming I had a clean tap? Looking to use this for my pads/rotors this weekend on my 2015 Lariat, thanks again!
Thanks, glad you liked the video; I hope it will be helpful. You should use a gear puller, but that can be an expensive tool if you don't use it a lot; I suggest you use a propane torch (like a plumber would use) but use MAP gas; it burns hotter, it will take a little longer to heat the rotor, but it will work. Never strike the wheel assembly or rotor with a hammer; it can damage the integrated speed sensor for your ABS brakes.
How do you like your Lariat? Mine has been a great truck, the best I have ever owned.
Thanks for watching.
@@SouthernEngineering Thanks for the recommendation, I'm glad I asked!
I love the 2015 Lariat I currently have, my old 2005 F150 was very basic (didn't even have power windows) so I decided to treat myself and upgrade to pretty much all the bells and whistles that are available with the Lariat package. There are some features that you think you would never need/use and now I don't think I could ever go without. I use the 360 degree cameras routinely to park!
The only thing I wouldn't recommend are the power running boards, I have had to replace the motors on both sides 3 times now but fortunately I bought the Premium Care warranty and it has been covered each time at the dealership... the Ohio winters are not ideal for power running boards at all.
@@sodedit I've had the running boards before; I agree they are not reliable, perhaps in the South but not in the snow and ice. I also have the premium care; it's money well spent and important if you're going to hold onto your truck a while. I'm not ready to trade it yet; the new 150s are nice, but not much has changed. I did order the new Bronco for my wife; I hope it will arrive soon.
really good to know..ty
Thanks, glad you got something out of it.
Thanks for watching, and commenting, I do appreciate it.
Does it matter if 4x4? Mine is 4wd so I didn't know if removal was the same
Mine is also 4X4; thanks for watching and for your question; I hope it helps.
I have a 2015 Ford F 150 and I have a 103000 miles on the original break You must be tailgating people and racing to the red light
Looks like ford change the pad design, the dog ears are gone and you can place any which way on the caliper
You torqued the caliper bolts to 100ftlbs, where did you get that spec? My Hanes manual states 184ft lbs for the front caliper bolts. 2015 F150
Hi John. I got the number from my buddy, he's a Ford tech and works mostly on trucks; I called and confirmed with him after receiving your question; 184 is safely precise and a large number; you may very likely snap the bolt off, it could be a misprint.
I take it you have an F-150, how long have you owned it, do you like it?
In those 65k miles, how many times did you take them apart and clean and relube the slide pins?
Hi GB. I have never done that, I do check to make sure they move freely and that the seals are intact; As long as they check ok I don't bother with them, this has been how I have always done it, however, if there is the slightest indication of uneven pad wear or stickiness then they will get replaced.
Thanks for watching and commenting, I do appreciate it.
Do they come with brake sensors? And how do I know if mine does if so
If you mean a wear sensor, then no, they do not. Just a basic disk brake pad with anti-rattle clips; Hope that helps.
That did. Thank you
Lmao smoke wrench!!!
One of the most versatile tools in the shop, It's right up there with a bolt stretcher.
Thanks for watcing.