This has to be the best video on the front brakes I have seen. It was a little fast but since I’m a little familiar with going brakes I was able to follow along. Thank you for showing where the grease is applied and the size of socket and torque. 184 lbs for the caliper bracket bolts, wow!. I would love to see a video on replacing the inner and outer tie rods and struts and shocks. Keep up the great work.I wish your shop was where I lived so I didn’t have to pay a fortune at the dealership. You must have a left forearm like Popeye from pushing the caliper piston back in place.
Great diy video, although you skimmed over the living in northern states with salt! Sprayed, pounded, and heated to no avail. Finally loosened the lug nuts and drove down a washboard road to break the tire free so it could be removed. All’s well that ends well. Got done just as the sleet started to fall! Thanks again.
Best video on-line regarding replacing F-150 rotors and pads. Good safety practices, awesome tips to get things loose, cleaned, securely reinstalled with lubrications and lock tite components. Torque settings were spot on which is an added bonus. I studied 7-8 other videos and yours is clearly superior! Thank you for taking the time to put this on-line.
Nice! Took you out to the garage on my iPad and knocked this out today on my 2013 XLT 4x4. My rotors were so stuck on I didn't have a hammer big enough so I used the bolts through the threaded hole method. Maybe I'll do the back next week. I don't see a similar video for those so let me know if I missed it. Not sure if the parking brake complicates those or not. Thanks very much!
STEVE ROB Steve it's pretty much the same job as the 2010 and you would love these wrenches. I use them all day long and hardly use my Snap-on anymore.
Great video but you lost me with if you don't have an impact wrench, just use a ratchet to remove the caliper bracket bolts. That's BS!@ and good luck to you that try. I've had 2 F-150's, 2006 & 2014 and the result is the same if you are the first to come along after the factory or others using thread lockers. Impact wrench or at the very least a breaker bar is the only way. As even he mentions, thread locker goes on the bolts. Good Luck with your ratchet attempt.
Nice, you saved lots of money. Brakes are one of the most rip off things mechanics do. Parts are relatively cheap and they charge triple for parts. And a ton for labor. I should know I’m a mechanic
A buddy of mine says that the red kind is a more permanent solution, hard to get the bolts off if you need to work on those bolts again (he said you'd need a torch to heat up the compound to break it down before it will loosen). The blue kind gives you extra security with the option to more easily release the bolts in the future.
Absolutely did not use red thread locker factory, it may have had some sort of anti seize on there, but Red thread locker requires heating to 500° to break it loose
Thanks for the video. It's alway nice knowing what you're getting into before tackling a new job. Unfortunately for me the shop that did my last brake job didn't watch this. No loctite on one of the caliper mounts and lost that bolt. Causing the caliper to shake loose and grind the inside of the alloy wheel. And never regreased the other sides mounting bolt causing it to seize and grind the pads down to the rivets. If you want anything done right, you have to do it yourself. And they were "Brake Experts".
When I did this brake job I did the driver front side first then the passenger front side the driver side went good but the passenger side brake caliper keeps getting hung up on the inside of the rim I've made sure everything is put on properly and torqued to spec I'm out of answer's
It's the same parts and procedures on a 2016 F150. Just did mine that had 109,000 miles. Thought it needed new brake pads, and rotors so I got Bosch Quiet Cast rotors with Wagner ceramic brake pads. When took off all old parts, I found the pads still had the center line mark on it which signifies there's still plenty of meat on the pads. Who knew that they didn't need changing as there was plenty of miles still to go. I bet I could've gone to 150,000 before changing parts, but I went through it nonetheless, just to say they're done.
sorry, but Motorcraft rotors are 100% junk. The rotors on my 2015 F150 with less than 40k miles have RUST RIDGES on them, requiring either the rotors to be cut, or replaced. I only found out because the last couple of weeks when braking the brake pedal is vibrating! After taking the tire off, i can now see RUST RIDGES on the inside of the rotors!!! Absolute junk!
I fail to understand all the problems with the 2014 F150 XLT (5.0) brake rotors. My vehicle has right at 89k miles on them (factory originals) and are just showing very few small grooves in the rotors. I'm right on top of them changing out the brake pads and am amazed that there isn't a 'lip' on the edge of the rotors that is normally found. (20" factory wheels/tires) My driving style may have something to do with that. (Retired L.E.O.)
Floyd Hardesty The brake pad overlaps the edge of the rotors then it will not leave the lip. It also could be due to the materials of the brake pads and rotors.
2014 f150 with 15k and the rotors are already warped. Ford garbage. I have read a lot lately how many folks are having to replace their rotors on a very low mileage truck. Ford should be embarrassed with this!
On some rotors there is a hole in the center of the hub that you can thread bolts into. Find the pitch thread usually 8 x 1.25 thread in and tighten it and that will pull the rotor off. If it doesn’t have the threaded holes then get a bigger hammer.
Would it be OK to put a tiny bit of grease between the hub and the new rotors to prevent them from sticking as much next time? (after knocking off the rust).
Negative ghost rider. Centrifugal force will see to it that the grease finds it's way to the surface of the rotor and then, well, good luck getting that thing slowed down.
@@dannymac7852 yeah, I didn't experience that. I have about 15k since I did my rotors... I put just a tiny surface level coating of thick grease (about the thinnest layer humanly possible, nowhere near enough to migrate) and nothing like that is happening.
Living in upstate NY will do it. It was like bringing a knife to a gun fight with my 5lb hammer lol. Painted the hub face with antiseize to avoid that issue in the futire and used painted rotors
nick elias here in San Diego I only see about five or six Rusty cars the entire year. Very thankful that I don't have to deal with rust on a daily basis
Those little holes between the lugs are used to take the rotor off if you want/need to save the rotor next time. I believe it's a 5/16" with a regular m20 thread or something like that.
A hanging caliper will not damage the brake line. There is no need for thread locker. 32 years I have replace brakes and never seen a bolt come loose. Ford don't put grease on the hard wear kit or the back of the pads. Don't lie and say they do because I just replace the rotors on my 2016 F150. I have a video of my work also.
Thanks for sharing! I completed the project in less than an hour after watching your video. Everything went smooth and easy.
This has to be the best video on the front brakes I have seen. It was a little fast but since I’m a little familiar with going brakes I was able to follow along. Thank you for showing where the grease is applied and the size of socket and torque. 184 lbs for the caliper bracket bolts, wow!. I would love to see a video on replacing the inner and outer tie rods and struts and shocks. Keep up the great work.I wish your shop was where I lived so I didn’t have to pay a fortune at the dealership. You must have a left forearm like Popeye from pushing the caliper piston back in place.
Straight forward, easy to follow instructions. First time I change my brakes and this video made it quick and easy. Thanks
Bruce Hobbs that’s awesome glad the video was able to help. Thank you for watching!
You da man! Made it so easy for this first timer. Granted your 9 minutes was my 2 hours but I got er done! Great video thank you.
Great diy video, although you skimmed over the living in northern states with salt! Sprayed, pounded, and heated to no avail. Finally loosened the lug nuts and drove down a washboard road to break the tire free so it could be removed. All’s well that ends well. Got done just as the sleet started to fall! Thanks again.
Had the pads reversed! Wheel was running hot, chewed up new pads in a week. At least I know now! Thank you!!
Sucks you have to go back in there but you definitely learn from this.
Best video on-line regarding replacing F-150 rotors and pads. Good safety practices, awesome tips to get things loose, cleaned, securely reinstalled with lubrications and lock tite components. Torque settings were spot on which is an added bonus. I studied 7-8 other videos and yours is clearly superior! Thank you for taking the time to put this on-line.
Erik Cotten thank you I get the videos better and better by suggestions from the viewers so I think you guys for making comments and watching!
Nice! Took you out to the garage on my iPad and knocked this out today on my 2013 XLT 4x4. My rotors were so stuck on I didn't have a hammer big enough so I used the bolts through the threaded hole method. Maybe I'll do the back next week. I don't see a similar video for those so let me know if I missed it. Not sure if the parking brake complicates those or not. Thanks very much!
1518joefil1 my rotors are rusted on bad. How does the method you used work so I could try it? Thanks
I'd open the bleeder when u push the Pistons in, that's the dirtiest fluid, u don't wanna push it back up the master.
Do you have to add more brake fluid after job is done? Since you took some out in the beginning to get the brake pistons pushed back in?
Thank you for an excellent video . I can do it too.
Looks like the same setup as on my 2010 F150 . I'll have to check out the extra long wrenches.
STEVE ROB Steve it's pretty much the same job as the 2010 and you would love these wrenches. I use them all day long and hardly use my Snap-on anymore.
How to Automotive Up here $420 on Amazon Canada . Most stuff we can't get from Amazon USA
STEVE ROB that's crazy Steve they're only 120 here in the US
yes amazon canada sucks, i order from amazon.com and send it to freeport fowarding just across the border....
If you mix up your inner and outer pads, it does make a big difference. You’ll have brakes, but they will be very soft.
Great video but you lost me with if you don't have an impact wrench, just use a ratchet to remove the caliper bracket bolts. That's BS!@ and good luck to you that try. I've had 2 F-150's, 2006 & 2014 and the result is the same if you are the first to come along after the factory or others using thread lockers. Impact wrench or at the very least a breaker bar is the only way. As even he mentions, thread locker goes on the bolts. Good Luck with your ratchet attempt.
Sir you just saved me $600. I wish i could buy you a beer.
sharod watson awesome glad you saved!! Just watch more videos that will help me out. Even if you just let them play in the background👍🏻
3:40 just use a c-clamp, 5:21 good job on showing people to lube slide pins. This is often neglected
Great Video!
S Winter thank you and thank you for watching!
I can’t find the link to the tools used in the video.
Is the process the same for a 2015 model with ABS system?
Going to do this soon. Thanks for all the good tips! 👍🏽
rcpereda Good luck with the repair. Thank you for watching!
Great video u explained everything perfect only problem I'm having not is I can't get old rotor off with a hammer now what??? Can anyone help???
todd wolff soak it with WD-40. And bigger hammer.
Thank you so much. The other side will be a breeze thanks to you. 😅
i'm not a mechanic by any means, but followed this video and changed by rotors and pads in only a couple hours. THanks for the tutorial.
Jason Kokos glad the video helped. Thank you for watching!
Nice, you saved lots of money. Brakes are one of the most rip off things mechanics do. Parts are relatively cheap and they charge triple for parts. And a ton for labor. I should know I’m a mechanic
Why do you use blue thread locker? Factory used red? Just curious?
A buddy of mine says that the red kind is a more permanent solution, hard to get the bolts off if you need to work on those bolts again (he said you'd need a torch to heat up the compound to break it down before it will loosen). The blue kind gives you extra security with the option to more easily release the bolts in the future.
Absolutely did not use red thread locker factory, it may have had some sort of anti seize on there, but Red thread locker requires heating to 500° to break it loose
Thanks a lot for this video!
DaBuick thank you for watching!
why not just channel locks and an old brake pad to compress the piston
Thanks for the video. It's alway nice knowing what you're getting into before tackling a new job. Unfortunately for me the shop that did my last brake job didn't watch this. No loctite on one of the caliper mounts and lost that bolt. Causing the caliper to shake loose and grind the inside of the alloy wheel. And never regreased the other sides mounting bolt causing it to seize and grind the pads down to the rivets. If you want anything done right, you have to do it yourself. And they were "Brake Experts".
Sucks you had to go through that. It really sucks that a so called professional did it. Thank you for watching!
While pumping the brake pedal do I want to have the cap off, or on, my brake fluid reservoir?
Geoff Cahill put it back on.
When I did this brake job I did the driver front side first then the passenger front side the driver side went good but the passenger side brake caliper keeps getting hung up on the inside of the rim I've made sure everything is put on properly and torqued to spec I'm out of answer's
It's the same parts and procedures on a 2016 F150. Just did mine that had 109,000 miles. Thought it needed new brake pads, and rotors so I got Bosch Quiet Cast rotors with Wagner ceramic brake pads. When took off all old parts, I found the pads still had the center line mark on it which signifies there's still plenty of meat on the pads. Who knew that they didn't need changing as there was plenty of miles still to go. I bet I could've gone to 150,000 before changing parts, but I went through it nonetheless, just to say they're done.
Thank you for the help and all of the suggestions, especially the one about you breaker bar/ratchet. I just finished my brakes, thanks for the help!
Thanks
Thank you for watching!
sorry, but Motorcraft rotors are 100% junk. The rotors on my 2015 F150 with less than 40k miles have RUST RIDGES on them, requiring either the rotors to be cut, or replaced. I only found out because the last couple of weeks when braking the brake pedal is vibrating! After taking the tire off, i can now see RUST RIDGES on the inside of the rotors!!! Absolute junk!
Going to take this on in a couple days. Looks fairly straight forward. Thanks for the video!
Excellent video. Watch it and was able to tackle this project and save some money. Thanks bud , HAIL TO THE REDSKINS!
I fail to understand all the problems with the 2014 F150 XLT (5.0) brake rotors. My vehicle has right at 89k miles on them (factory originals) and are just showing very few small grooves in the rotors. I'm right on top of them changing out the brake pads and am amazed that there isn't a 'lip' on the edge of the rotors that is normally found. (20" factory wheels/tires) My driving style may have something to do with that. (Retired L.E.O.)
Floyd Hardesty The brake pad overlaps the edge of the rotors then it will not leave the lip. It also could be due to the materials of the brake pads and rotors.
My 2012 has rotor grooves also, no lip, with 86K miles. Replacing everything next week.
Tell me about the side mounted lic plate. I need todo that for LED light bar. Thx
Michael Knuths this is something the customer had done I'm sure it was a kit.
It's an ecoboost F-150. Ford mounts the license plate off-center so that it does not obstruct the air flowing across the intercooler.
184 ft/lbs?
would it work for a 2013 Ford king ranch
Pedro lopez Lopez yes it’s the same.
What could be causing the pads to stick to the caliper after instalation?
+Scott Davendaile The slide pans and hardware. Check to see if they’re rusted and moving freely
How to Automotive Thanks
2014 f150 with 15k and the rotors are already warped. Ford garbage. I have read a lot lately how many folks are having to replace their rotors on a very low mileage truck. Ford should be embarrassed with this!
CJ Gibson that is a shame. Hopefully they'll come up with an update rotor. You may look into an aftermarket company that may have an updated rotor.
How to Automotive i will be going to napa this week, no oem garbage for me!
KingCobra I put 118 000 on my oem rotors. Maybe you just suck at life.
CJ Gibson I️ put 130.000 on my ford and just today I’m gonna change mines
CJ Gibson not Ford's fault, operator error.
Any tips on getting the rotor off, I've beat it with a hammer and sprayed some lube but it isn't budging.
On some rotors there is a hole in the center of the hub that you can thread bolts into. Find the pitch thread usually 8 x 1.25 thread in and tighten it and that will pull the rotor off. If it doesn’t have the threaded holes then get a bigger hammer.
Hey bud when you take out a few ounces out on top do you close it back up or leave it open ? Thank you , I will subscribe
I left my cap off and didn’t need to extract any fluid because I had plenty of room in the reservoir to avoid any spillage.
Great video. Best brake how to for Ford f-150 on utube. Thank you Sir 👍
Would it be OK to put a tiny bit of grease between the hub and the new rotors to prevent them from sticking as much next time? (after knocking off the rust).
Negative ghost rider. Centrifugal force will see to it that the grease finds it's way to the surface of the rotor and then, well, good luck getting that thing slowed down.
@@dannymac7852 yeah, I didn't experience that. I have about 15k since I did my rotors... I put just a tiny surface level coating of thick grease (about the thinnest layer humanly possible, nowhere near enough to migrate) and nothing like that is happening.
what size are the caliper bracket bolts?
0:54 "YEAHHH!"
Trey Lima there’s links for it in the description.
He does it again later in the vid...hilarious
Wish all how to vids were done this way. No nonsense and straightforward. Thanks!
Thank you for watching!
This video is perfect- informational concise, watched this video and ran out to install mine. Dude, thanks!
Victor Cruz Glad you like the video and it was helpful. Thank you for watching!
If you have ABS do you need to break open the bleeder screw ????
YES, or you will get the pay the dealer $2k to fix it!
These ads kill me
What size C clamp will I need?
Great video, a lot of good tips.
Do you recommend an online parts store to get rotors and pads from ?
rockauto
Best to the point and easy understanding thanks 🙏
Thank you!
No thank you! 😂
Should one have a second person standing buy to add fluid as you pump the break ?
george p there's no need for a second person. Unless you open the bleeder screws.
I did mine today on my 2014 f150. I had to use a 20lb demo sledge hammer to get those rotors off.
nick elias every now and then I get a stuck on I have to use the big boy on it. Thank you for watching!
Living in upstate NY will do it. It was like bringing a knife to a gun fight with my 5lb hammer lol. Painted the hub face with antiseize to avoid that issue in the futire and used painted rotors
nick elias here in San Diego I only see about five or six Rusty cars the entire year. Very thankful that I don't have to deal with rust on a daily basis
Those little holes between the lugs are used to take the rotor off if you want/need to save the rotor next time. I believe it's a 5/16" with a regular m20 thread or something like that.
Thanks
Which socket for the rear brakes?
Juan Roldan with out seeing it I’m not sure
13 caliper, 19 rotors
Great video and super tips.
Devin Thomas thank you!
Can't you damage the abs sensor not opening the bleeder screw? Could someone confirm this? Please and thank you
G k No you will not damage any other sensors.
Very helpful instructions. Thank you.
Ernie Saavedra glad the video helped. Thank you for watching!
A hanging caliper will not damage the brake line. There is no need for thread locker. 32 years I have replace brakes and never seen a bolt come loose. Ford don't put grease on the hard wear kit or the back of the pads. Don't lie and say they do because I just replace the rotors on my 2016 F150. I have a video of my work also.
blackericdenice so you’re watching this video why?