Man i stick to my word you are really the N54 DIY King 🤴 You keep in surprising us, especially today with using the imagination Great content as usual, best of luck in you engine swap
I have been thinking the exact same thing for months. These N54 engines run so hot especially with extra boost. I am looking at Misfire Race for my kit because it’ll also include the AT cooler at the same time. Looks great! Thank you for posting! -Steve
First I want to say I have been watching your RUclips videos since the beginning on RUclips you give me great knowledge and for me not to go to BMW SteelersI, I am proud Owner 07 335i Coupe 7 years now i have FBO/MHD/Dow pipes cat delete I’ve done this all by myself and all the necessary maintenance and upgrades thanks to you watching your videos, my car is one of the first models 07 coupe did not come with the oil cooler, I got the Evolution Racewerks oil cooler Single kid and it came with SHROUDS DUCT are made from aluminum, It is very important to have the air flow to be redirect through the oil radiator the Evolution Racewerks kid Comes with the single radiator or the race competition double radiators, i’ve never had any issues or oil leaks with this kid since I have installed it my first year , and once again thank you for your videos keep the good work, I think you’re the best.
Important to note that for cars with wheel/tire or suspension options different than factory, make sure there is enough clearance between the tire and the cooler at full lock. In some BMW Ex chassis cars such as the e82 1M, tires rubbing on the oil cooler grilles at the fender was already a problem from factory, which could be worsened by this.
I've been running the same cooler and similar set up for about a year except I kept the stock cooler and mounted this one towards the top of the radiator. Definitely a huge difference in running temp.
Hey man great install hope everything with the replacement engine goes well. Currently following your stage 2 LPFP video and saved some money on doing it myself!
I'm actually planning on retrofitting all- OEM oil cooler to my N52. I guess N54 can potentially generate higher rates of oil temperature, so a bigger radiator makes sense.
So I get the new cooler for debris purposes but for cooling purposes I have found that the BMS low temp oil cooler valve is more effective than upgraded cooler, if you live in climates where it get real cold in winter you probably want to switch back.
Not sure what you mean by "debris purposes". Typo? Your suggesting that the cooler valve be exchanged seasonally? I'm from Ontario, so we see summer temps as high as 35C and winter temps as low as -25C.
@@bryanderksen4448 he spun a rod bearing and is replacing the oil cooler in case any bearing material or other metal damage from the spun bearing doesn't camp out in the oil cooler and then get into the new engine, that's what I meant. And so yes in Ontario I would run BMS low temp oil cooler valve in summer and stock in winter. I am in San Diego so I can run low temp all year round. It will take forever to warm up the car in winter with BMS low temp in extreme climates.
I'll report back on the temps on this cooler when it gets hot here in Houston. Yes the initial motivation was to avoid any contaminants making it into the new engine but given it's surface area I'd hope that it performs a little better than stock after some back to back pulls. Let's see.
Well, if you're referring to the BMS lower temperature opening valve, it is a scam on par with their DCI kits. Engine oil must reach 212° F as soon as possible so that condensation is boiled off before it is introduced as lubrication in critical areas. Water and oil emulsion does not make a good lubrication film. But if you like spinning bearings .... it is a perfect setup.
My kit (purchased through affiliate link) included o rings but they did not appear to be the right size. I used OEM seals as suggested in the video. They fit both the housing flange and the line much better.
I would not remove the louvered screen between the tire and oil cooler. It is the only thing keeping some debris from striking the cooler and potentially damaging it.
0:52 "Alright first things first you guys pull your engine out of your car SO YOU CAN ACCESS THIS BOLT". LOL. That just killed me. lol. Thumbs up just for that joke alone.
Thanks for all the great videos! Do you have any updates after 10 months on how the new cooler is doing? Did you noticed any improvement on the temperature? Did TPMS new location worked correctly?
2 issues I've had with this exact kit. 1st, Both my hoses have failed. Not right away but within a few months. 2nd, the adapter had to be taken down in the center to get the AN fittings right to the housing otherwise is slowly leaked oil. Additionally, the lines are way to long anyways, and the ORings were junk.
@@DemonChicken316 oof thanks for sharing ! 2:58 seems like this is a revised kit when did you buy yours maybe it was just an earlier version and they have since addressed these issues? Also many don't think that a softer material like plastic or nylon can rub through a tougher part like metal or aluminium but always remember that over time like in nature even water drops can erode very hard objects so for longevity it is important to make sure nothing is rubbing or can rub during dynamic conditions like track use or even regular driving
Going to track my car for the first time this weekend, curious to see how the oil temps do. Will definitely consider this if it can’t cool down fast enough
I'd be more concerned about the stock radiator cooling if its a road course track. I overheated with a new oe radiator. I had to buy the csf performance radiator.
@@An0nDEViant Update: pushed the car pretty hard on Big Willow and honestly temps stayed pretty constant, highest oil went was around 255, coolant around 200. Mind you it was a relatively cool day today, so I’d want a CSF Rad and perhaps this oil cooler for a warmer day
Had the very same exact kit , those lines not even within a month or 2 , oil started leaking through the AN lines . I would highly recommend the stainless steel 100% I had to replace the lines & it’s been great for some time now .
@@VehicularDIY I bought the exact same kit from eBay , when the lines leaked I bought another kit same oil cooler with the silver finish but the lines that came with it were the stainless steel & they work beautifully
I have a lock from the oil thermostat and bracket what was added to the kit. I even bought another oil fitting bracket from mishimoto and the same problem.
Hey man, soooo.... I've just installed this same exact cooler and wanted to point something out. You might want to switch your oil lines around a bit. You want the straight fitting to be on the driver side of the thermostat so that you can put your fan back in without having to remove the line. I did it the same way as you at first but for future work, I'd rather not have to remove that oil line every time I'm pulling the fan. This is on an E92, don't know if the E90 has the same amount of clearance.
Interesting. I’m installing one on my e92 and also had issues with line routing. I put the angles on the thermostat housing pointing opposite ways and did not use the bracket that connects the two lines together. Works fine, but I think I’m going to try it with the straight fitting on the thermostat housing for better aesthetics.
@@mattrowan9036 I got mine to route very similar to how the OEM one routes by doing it this way. Oil temps are staying low when pushing the car (stock turbos, MHD stage 2+), so I'm happy with this cheap upgrade!
Hey I bought the exact same one and I had one question so I installed them with oem o rings and after putting the bolt on they still jiggle a bit I put on the bracket and everything good I’m just scared to turn it on and oil fly everywhere is it supposed to jiggle a bit ?
I didn’t upgrade mine I completely had to install from scratch bought a newer n54 oil filter housing vtt block off plate and mishimoto oil cooler wanted to see where u put yours on car
Wow I hjave those exact parts, piecing my kit together as well. We are probably going to have identical setups. What oil lines and fittings are you going to buy?
Did you end up running this successfully before you sold this car? How did you like it? Any leaks? Did you use the provided o-rings or did you buy BMW OEM ones? One hose is (1.4m, 90deg fittings on both ends) is for the top of the oil cooler to the left connection of the thermo. And the longer hose (1.6m, 90deg fitting + straight fitting on the other end) goes the longer distance from the bottom of the oil cooler to the far end of the thermo (closer to the drivers side). With 90deg fitting shooting it straight up through the same opening as the first hose, over the crash bar, and ending with the straight fitting on the thermo. Using both 90 degree fittings on the thermo would make them hit each other and crowd the space; I would space them out by bringing the right connection down some with the straight fitting them send both hoses over on top of each other with the hose management connector. Thank you for the video.
@@Marky_Markster Yes I did, right before selling I upgraded the rings but used quality aftermarket ones I had kicking around. Held up fine just make sure the lines are supported in multiple places to avoid putting strain on them. I upgraded to this as my stock cooler was compromised, this performed a little better than stock, nothing crazy but good value for money.
@@VehicularDIY thank you. When running the stock setup at the Tail of the Dragon, at the end of the second day i got temps up to 255 258 before i took it easy and they came back down to 240. I already have a BMS sport oil cooler valve, plus I’ll add Max Cooling set to Track in MHD next time, and with this G+ 25 row oil cooler and that should help me out. Thank you!
@@machtschnell7452 yeah true I'm going to get csf for radiator and I'm not tracking my car so no need for a race dual a street dual one is fine and way more cheaper ($550) since I'm budget lol but this is the street one instagram.com/p/B8hzDi_p-Ef/?igshid=zb564c6s8kz
From what I have read a lot of people have used aftermarket coolers have had hose failures. There are a lot of vibrations caused by the oil pump so a lot of fatigue.
Thanks, from what I've read it fits the E90, E91 and E92 but not sure why the E93 is different. Perhaps there is some additional bracing up from compared to the E92?
Just an update, my gplus core has failed (previously I had mentioned I had gplus lines and fittings failed). The core itself failed, I ordered all new lines/fittings jeggs brand and derale core to use with the gplus bracket. Paired with HARD motorsports adapter.
@@Vgk36 works Greta no issues, derale cooler, jegs brand fittings/hose, turner adapter plate. I still use the mounting bracket from the original gplus kit though, tight fit but made it work.
I have been trying to track down a unknown coolant leak, it drips down from the passenger side, vrsf intercooler bolt. I was looking at it from the front and it looks like the engine cooler? It is at the bottom passenger side of the intercooler, which leads me to believe it is the engine cooler.
hey istead of cutting the plastic piece, I believe it was the brake duct, could you have just heated it up in that particular area with a heat gun and kinda bent it around the housing so no cuts would be needed??
I reached out to the company, based on their customer service I can't be affiliated with them unfortunately. Sad but they must not be ready for mass exposure given their interaction with me.
@Vehicular DIY Today on my way to work when I was getting on the highway (2008 328xi 6MT) in 3rd gear and gave it like 3/4ths of a full pedal and my car instantly started misfiring and the service engine soon light came on. The car was driving like a typical situation when you have a bad coil. When I got to work I shut the car off and when I turned it back on it was fine. I just drove home and it seemed fine and the light didn't come on. I had my mechanic install new OE plugs and coils about 6 months ago.(car just flipped 89K on the clock). It was pretty cold today around 35F and the car was not totally warmed up when I jumped on it but it had been running for almost 10 minutes I'm guessing. I plan on getting it but I haven't bought the bimmergeeks scan tool yet lol. Will it still show a code if I have my mechanic scan it tomorrow, even though the light isn't on anymore? Any ideas why this might happen aside from a plug or coil issue. To anyone else that's reading this, warming up these cars before you do any spirited driving is something that I think cannot be overstated. Thanks man!
How long did the misfire last before you ended shutting off the car? Typically if the car senses a misfire due to fuel it would deactivate the injector and after about 10 minutes it would reactivate of it would reactivate once you turn the car off and back on again.
@@VehicularDIY less than 10 minutes. It seems fine now but I'm gonna get it checked out. Not likely that it was just a one off event right? I mean there must be some underlying problem or could jumping on it cold have caused it? I tried to make it happen again today (but after it was warm) and it operated as normal.
@@VehicularDIY Would also add that the engine with 89K runs as smooth as glass and quiet as a tesla compared to my friend's N55, like literally no noise, no lifter noises or any other engine noises. I recently did the tension pulley and belt as maintenance but it didn't seem like it needed it. I've had the car for a year and a half and "knock on wood" haven't had a single issue with the car aside from a turn signal socket issue and currently have a headlight that is on and off with some sort of short somewhere so I'm gonna get new headlights anyways cuz I don't care for the stock ones. The car although low on mileage is getting up there in years so I expect stuff to start breaking soon although I know many ppl say the N52 is pretty reliable. Anyways, thanks for the videos, I really learn a lot from your channel.
My E93 didn't come stock with an oil cooler and I'm doing a retrofit. I have a radiator bracket from the junkyard, but I'm sure if the black bracket it attaches to comes stock on base model trims? Just making sure because if not I'll have to remove the entire from crash bar frame and rebolt it back in just for the bracket in which case I'd rather just weld something on. The retrofit kit from FCP Euro doesn't picture the black bracket so I'm hoping it's stock on all models.
Dumb questions: Is oil running through the cooler or just coolant? My BMW doesn't have an oil cooler (n63tu3) so can I still use the adapter plate someplace on the filter housing? I don't believe there's a thread on filter in these motors. I don't know where or if there's an oil cooler valve either.
The oil cooler kit is very good, especially the price. I also think it's good that it uses the original screw points. Only one big problem, again not available in Germany. All the kits here are mega expensive, I've been looking for a long time and this seems to be very good.
What about the warm up time ? I live in the UK so its not as warm as in the States , it can't take up to 8 miles or more in the winter for the needle to move , its better in the summer and when its fully warm it hovers around 90/110 Celsius , I don't track the car but drive it hard in the hills and it seem very hot, and just a thought , do you think it would be better to leave the engine cover off to aid cooling?
Good afternoon friend. I would like to know if it is possible to just change the hoses/oil lines (for better ones) and keep the original oil cooler and oil cooler thermostat housing with thermostat. It's because I live in Brazil and here we don't have many professionals capable of adapting parts not oem. I have a bmw 335, 2008, N54, and I have leaks at both ends of the original oil lines, a leak in the oil cooler connection and another in the oil cooler thermostat housing with thermostat. So I thought about changing just the hoses/oil lines, however the originals are very expensive and I thought if I could replace them with non-original ones, but with good quality and even better heat dissipation. However, the oil lines/hoses used in your video have different connections in the oil cooler, reason why I would like to ask if you know oil lines with the same connection of the original/oem oil cooler. If so, could you please help me and recommend the store that I can order them? I have friends living in US that can buy the oil lines/hoses for me and send to Brasil in case the store does not ship to Brazil. I really appreciate your help. Tks
Thanks for the great vids. Quick question: when you change the oil, do you some how drain the cooler too or do you not concern yourself with the 1/2 qt of oil?
@@VehicularDIY the reason I ask is because that front subframe/area and mounting bracket is the beside the wheel liner. I honestly think ill pick it up and give it a shot since it only $150. also the picture shows that it comes with orings so Im not sure if I should still get those. also that a great deal for the engine and where did you pick it up from including shipping?
I've thought about upgrading my thermostat housing for my F32, and also a better oil cooler. Im off to Google and see what I can find. Thanks for the video and reminder!
I believe this is the same for e82 n54 i just order one hopefully is no difference :). Do you think i can fit a fan there ? Youre the best n54 youtuber
love your vids. i have a 2011 335 w/65K miles which has currently valve cover gasket leak (typical rear left corner), a coolant leak (havent identified where yet, but radiator was replaced a year ago)- just today my heat doesnt blow hot air anymore and its freezing here in PA. Was going to do the valve cover gasket and save money and let shop do other two things. Any thoughts on the heater issue? I tried the coolant bleed procedure, thinking maybe air in the system- i thought i felt some hot air initially after the bleeding but then was gone. I didnt want to do it twice as i didnt have battery charger connected. Thanks for any input. Its been a good car but seems like all happening at one time right now!
@@VehicularDIY I did my homework! I felt the upper and lower hoses one felt warmer then the other so that is good, I did the bleed process and water pump worked as it should, I tried all vents and all blow cold. I’m stumped! What else can I troubleshoot? The temp rises to operating normally bewteeen 160 and 240, so can’t be stuck open thermostat either.
any update on how the cooler is doing. i want to know how the longevity of the cooler? i was considering these for the price point or building a oil cooler with the vargas block off plate with a external thermal stat. im looking between this cooler vs the mishimoto.
So far it's good, still running it and putting miles on it. I was waiting for the oil lines to potentially act up based on feedback but it's good so far. I think they're find as long as you route them properly. Been a few months now.
It's holding up, I've been keeping my eyes on the lines as people mentioned they only lasted a couple months. I think if you route them where they aren't under any strain they'll be fine. Lets see. I'll update the description if something happens.
Where did you buy that engine from? Hey I’m in the same predicament as you . However, I’m having trouble finding a place to buy an n54 . most of the sites I came across have really bad ratings and look like scams. Your suggestion would help me out big, bro. Love your channel btw, It’s very helpful.
Did you have any issues with leaks at the oil housing and adapter? I’m using factory o-rings and the fit does not feel sealed once I put the lines on. Following up to ping question again. 10/11/22
Hey!!!! Love your videos. Wondering how much you paid for your Msport conversion parts? Trying to buy some but seems like they are asking a lot for parts.🤷🏽♂️ great video!
@@VehicularDIY cool! Junk yard is asking 400 for the head and tail lights wanna make sure I’m getting a good deal lol. Wanna convert mine too after seeing your videos!
Hey my N54 started giving me rod knock, I did a compression test and all cylinders are above 160. I haven’t taken my engine apart yet to see the severity of the damage but I stopped the car and have not driven it since the knock. Do you recommend I buy nee bearing and crank or would a new engine be better. I’m thinking crank and bearings only because the engine still seems healthy. It has 117,00 miles.
You'd have to take the bed plate off and get pretty deep into the engine so at that point you may want to disassemble and have a machine shop see about saving the crank. If it was me I'd be buying another engine if you can get it for around 1500 to 2000 to your door.
So I know you are supposed to fill the cooler with oil so the engine doesn't lose oil pressure on startup, but are we supposed to fill the oil cooler lines as well?
Am I overlooking sth, or did you forget the most crucial part of swapping out an oil cooler? You absolutety NEED to prefill it, otherwise the oil pump will just pull air from the cooler when the oil thermostat opens for the first time!
Wooooo you got me with that take out your engine first joke!!!! I was about to sell my car lol
Me too. I respect what he says so much I would be pulling my engine out..Lol...
Wait...he was joking? brb... 😩
me too lol
😂😂😂
Man i stick to my word
you are really the N54 DIY King 🤴
You keep in surprising us, especially today with using the imagination
Great content as usual, best of luck in you engine swap
Thanks!
I have been thinking the exact same thing for months. These N54 engines run so hot especially with extra boost. I am looking at Misfire Race for my kit because it’ll also include the AT cooler at the same time. Looks great! Thank you for posting! -Steve
US $117.00 10%OFF | Fit FOR B M W 3 SERIES 335I E90 E92 N54 BLACK 25 ROW BOLT ON OIL COOLER KIT UPGRADE
a.aliexpress.com/_mt7fniV
First I want to say I have been watching your RUclips videos since the beginning on RUclips you give me great knowledge and for me not to go to BMW SteelersI, I am proud Owner 07 335i Coupe 7 years now i have FBO/MHD/Dow pipes cat delete I’ve done this all by myself and all the necessary maintenance and upgrades thanks to you watching your videos, my car is one of the first models 07 coupe did not come with the oil cooler, I got the Evolution Racewerks oil cooler Single kid and it came with SHROUDS DUCT are made from aluminum, It is very important to have the air flow to be redirect through the oil radiator the Evolution Racewerks kid Comes with the single radiator or the race competition double radiators, i’ve never had any issues or oil leaks with this kid since I have installed it my first year , and once again thank you for your videos keep the good work, I think you’re the best.
Proper ducting and sealing is critical.
Important to note that for cars with wheel/tire or suspension options different than factory, make sure there is enough clearance between the tire and the cooler at full lock. In some BMW Ex chassis cars such as the e82 1M, tires rubbing on the oil cooler grilles at the fender was already a problem from factory, which could be worsened by this.
Yeah good point, it's pretty close.
This is the first virtual DIY I’ve ever seen and I totally understood, lol.
I do a lot of my own work, but you my man are fearless. Kudos.
“Use your imagination” 😂 some people don’t have that mechanical vision bro.
Most people
I lost it when he said that😂
Can’t wait to see the engine back in!
I've been running the same cooler and similar set up for about a year except I kept the stock cooler and mounted this one towards the top of the radiator. Definitely a huge difference in running temp.
So you are running two oil coolers? how?
@@XxBadBoy1366xX i mounted the 2nd cooler behind the grills and ran the lines to the top of the oil filter housing.
I'm very interested to see how this looks. How did you manage the connections?
@@XxBadBoy1366xX similar to this video but made changes to the AN routing
ruclips.net/video/YJNy3QRvkWI/видео.html
Hey man great install hope everything with the replacement engine goes well. Currently following your stage 2 LPFP video and saved some money on doing it myself!
Nice!
@@VehicularDIY Almost done and I have to say your DIY makes it look like cake! What a royal pain in the ass but it's looking good!
You will need 90 & 45 degrees elbows to fit nicely if you using stock location upgrade inlets
you got me with that joke in the beginning 😂
Your wife: "Honey - have you seen my dark, desk table?? The one where I keep our wedding and family photos???"
👍👍 love your videos !! Always wanted a n54 car but could never really make it happen. But your videos are great!
Thanks! 👍
I'm actually planning on retrofitting all- OEM oil cooler to my N52. I guess N54 can potentially generate higher rates of oil temperature, so a bigger radiator makes sense.
Yeah from what I understand the early N54 cars had it as an option and BMW made it standard when they found people encountering issues with oil temps.
@@VehicularDIY early n54 cars without oil coolers had overheating issues when they would see excessive temperatures and go into limp mode.
@@maxsam201 Yes, only certain options in '07 had the old radiator included. It was standard from 2008 onward.
So I get the new cooler for debris purposes but for cooling purposes I have found that the BMS low temp oil cooler valve is more effective than upgraded cooler, if you live in climates where it get real cold in winter you probably want to switch back.
Not sure what you mean by "debris purposes". Typo?
Your suggesting that the cooler valve be exchanged seasonally? I'm from Ontario, so we see summer temps as high as 35C and winter temps as low as -25C.
@@bryanderksen4448 he spun a rod bearing and is replacing the oil cooler in case any bearing material or other metal damage from the spun bearing doesn't camp out in the oil cooler and then get into the new engine, that's what I meant. And so yes in Ontario I would run BMS low temp oil cooler valve in summer and stock in winter. I am in San Diego so I can run low temp all year round. It will take forever to warm up the car in winter with BMS low temp in extreme climates.
I'll report back on the temps on this cooler when it gets hot here in Houston. Yes the initial motivation was to avoid any contaminants making it into the new engine but given it's surface area I'd hope that it performs a little better than stock after some back to back pulls. Let's see.
@@VehicularDIY copy all, just reporting I have found that BMS valve is better than bigger oil cooler, however best is all of the above.
Well, if you're referring to the BMS lower temperature opening valve, it is a scam on par with their DCI kits. Engine oil must reach 212° F as soon as possible so that condensation is boiled off before it is introduced as lubrication in critical areas. Water and oil emulsion does not make a good lubrication film. But if you like spinning bearings .... it is a perfect setup.
My kit (purchased through affiliate link) included o rings but they did not appear to be the right size. I used OEM seals as suggested in the video. They fit both the housing flange and the line much better.
i love the humor on this
Vehicular DIY pantomime edition
p.s. I love your videos, great work!
I would not remove the louvered screen between the tire and oil cooler. It is the only thing keeping some debris from striking the cooler and potentially damaging it.
Well let's hope the louvers built into the cage the holds the cooler offers protection.
Already out of stock. Definitely something I need to do for my track toy
Yeah I'm not affiliated but if you don't mind waiting they seem to be available on Ali Express.
Very nice stuff. Thanks for sharing👍. Dutch regards, Nico.
As usual great video and thanks for sharing.
0:52 "Alright first things first you guys pull your engine out of your car SO YOU CAN ACCESS THIS BOLT". LOL. That just killed me. lol. Thumbs up just for that joke alone.
Did this setup on my 07 e90 with a mishimoto oil cooler, hooked it up under my horn so you can see it through the m3 bumper
Thanks for all the great videos! Do you have any updates after 10 months on how the new cooler is doing? Did you noticed any improvement on the temperature? Did TPMS new location worked correctly?
If you don't have the greatest BMW memory I just don't know who else does
2 issues I've had with this exact kit.
1st, Both my hoses have failed. Not right away but within a few months.
2nd, the adapter had to be taken down in the center to get the AN fittings right to the housing otherwise is slowly leaked oil.
Additionally, the lines are way to long anyways, and the ORings were junk.
How did the lines fail ? From the centre or the fitting? And what do you mean by taken down?
@@camver100 in the center.
@@DemonChicken316 oof thanks for sharing !
2:58 seems like this is a revised kit when did you buy yours maybe it was just an earlier version and they have since addressed these issues?
Also many don't think that a softer material like plastic or nylon can rub through a tougher part like metal or aluminium but always remember that over time like in nature even water drops can erode very hard objects so for longevity it is important to make sure nothing is rubbing or can rub during dynamic conditions like track use or even regular driving
@@DemonChicken316 gotcha, what did you mean taken down? And I assume u replaced with oem orings to stop leaking ?
@@ifan3270 so I just got a new one this summer, after my n54 blew in the spring with my old one.
Both adapters were the same.
hi dude i love youre videos! i have the msl oil cooling its a way different housing ( dutch company) it take youre oil cooling down with 20 degrees
Going to track my car for the first time this weekend, curious to see how the oil temps do. Will definitely consider this if it can’t cool down fast enough
I'd be more concerned about the stock radiator cooling if its a road course track. I overheated with a new oe radiator. I had to buy the csf performance radiator.
@@An0nDEViant Update: pushed the car pretty hard on Big Willow and honestly temps stayed pretty constant, highest oil went was around 255, coolant around 200. Mind you it was a relatively cool day today, so I’d want a CSF Rad and perhaps this oil cooler for a warmer day
Had the very same exact kit , those lines not even within a month or 2 , oil started leaking through the AN lines . I would highly recommend the stainless steel 100% I had to replace the lines & it’s been great for some time now .
Also I didn’t have any OEM O rings fitted on the oil housing , no leaks whatsoever
Nice, did you get the stainless lines made or did you buy them from somewhere?
@@VehicularDIY I bought the exact same kit from eBay , when the lines leaked I bought another kit same oil cooler with the silver finish but the lines that came with it were the stainless steel & they work beautifully
I have a lock from the oil thermostat and bracket what was added to the kit. I even bought another oil fitting bracket from mishimoto and the same problem.
Should you prefill the oil cooler and limes before hooking up the lines to the OFH?
That wouldn't hurt actually, good suggestion.
Hey man, soooo.... I've just installed this same exact cooler and wanted to point something out. You might want to switch your oil lines around a bit. You want the straight fitting to be on the driver side of the thermostat so that you can put your fan back in without having to remove the line.
I did it the same way as you at first but for future work, I'd rather not have to remove that oil line every time I'm pulling the fan. This is on an E92, don't know if the E90 has the same amount of clearance.
The E90 has a bit more I believe as I could get the fan out without touching those lines.
Interesting. I’m installing one on my e92 and also had issues with line routing. I put the angles on the thermostat housing pointing opposite ways and did not use the bracket that connects the two lines together. Works fine, but I think I’m going to try it with the straight fitting on the thermostat housing for better aesthetics.
@@mattrowan9036 I got mine to route very similar to how the OEM one routes by doing it this way.
Oil temps are staying low when pushing the car (stock turbos, MHD stage 2+), so I'm happy with this cheap upgrade!
Hey I bought the exact same one and I had one question so I installed them with oem o rings and after putting the bolt on they still jiggle a bit I put on the bracket and everything good I’m just scared to turn it on and oil fly everywhere is it supposed to jiggle a bit ?
@@fideldiaz2625 there is a little bit of play. Only way to find out if you did it right is by starting the car tho.
I didn’t upgrade mine I completely had to install from scratch bought a newer n54 oil filter housing vtt block off plate and mishimoto oil cooler wanted to see where u put yours on car
Wow I hjave those exact parts, piecing my kit together as well. We are probably going to have identical setups. What oil lines and fittings are you going to buy?
Did you end up running this successfully before you sold this car? How did you like it? Any leaks? Did you use the provided o-rings or did you buy BMW OEM ones?
One hose is (1.4m, 90deg fittings on both ends) is for the top of the oil cooler to the left connection of the thermo. And the longer hose (1.6m, 90deg fitting + straight fitting on the other end) goes the longer distance from the bottom of the oil cooler to the far end of the thermo (closer to the drivers side). With 90deg fitting shooting it straight up through the same opening as the first hose, over the crash bar, and ending with the straight fitting on the thermo. Using both 90 degree fittings on the thermo would make them hit each other and crowd the space; I would space them out by bringing the right connection down some with the straight fitting them send both hoses over on top of each other with the hose management connector. Thank you for the video.
@@Marky_Markster Yes I did, right before selling I upgraded the rings but used quality aftermarket ones I had kicking around. Held up fine just make sure the lines are supported in multiple places to avoid putting strain on them. I upgraded to this as my stock cooler was compromised, this performed a little better than stock, nothing crazy but good value for money.
@@VehicularDIY thank you. When running the stock setup at the Tail of the Dragon, at the end of the second day i got temps up to 255 258 before i took it easy and they came back down to 240. I already have a BMS sport oil cooler valve, plus I’ll add Max Cooling set to Track in MHD next time, and with this G+ 25 row oil cooler and that should help me out. Thank you!
Thanks for this vid, I’m getting one
Awesome video once again, ill think ill definitely be doing this one! Also what songs are in the background? they sound cool
Thanks ,I'll see if I can dig up the name.
Nice oil upgrade,but I would like to see the one with the dual oil where the grills are thats the route I'm taking but looking great 🤙🏽
There are dual oil radiators in racing track setups. They are about $2,000. I would consider upgrading the radiator first.
@@machtschnell7452 yeah true I'm going to get csf for radiator and I'm not tracking my car so no need for a race dual a street dual one is fine and way more cheaper ($550) since I'm budget lol but this is the street one instagram.com/p/B8hzDi_p-Ef/?igshid=zb564c6s8kz
I LOVE THIS. Im dying laughing as your pointing to the things that arnt that. I can see the parts as you make the hand motions 🤣🤣. Favourite video.
At first I thought this would work on the N55. But it doesn’t have the two lines side by side on the bottom of the oil cooler.
From what I have read a lot of people have used aftermarket coolers have had hose failures. There are a lot of vibrations caused by the oil pump so a lot of fatigue.
Yeah seems to be common, I need to be ready with a set of upgraded lines.
I know you did this 2 years ago and I’m wanting to upgrade my 2010 335i E93 so is that a 19 or 25 and are you still using it ?
Awesome work. Would this work for an E93? I did contact them before, and they said it wouldn’t.
Thanks, from what I've read it fits the E90, E91 and E92 but not sure why the E93 is different. Perhaps there is some additional bracing up from compared to the E92?
I think there is a problem with ducting. I do not think Dinan can install their oil cooler on E93 convertibles.
Just an update, my gplus core has failed (previously I had mentioned I had gplus lines and fittings failed).
The core itself failed, I ordered all new lines/fittings jeggs brand and derale core to use with the gplus bracket.
Paired with HARD motorsports adapter.
How's the new setup holding up? I live in Vegas and I need to do something about these temps my needle is always in the middle .
@@Vgk36 works Greta no issues, derale cooler, jegs brand fittings/hose, turner adapter plate.
I still use the mounting bracket from the original gplus kit though, tight fit but made it work.
I have been trying to track down a unknown coolant leak, it drips down from the passenger side, vrsf intercooler bolt. I was looking at it from the front and it looks like the engine cooler? It is at the bottom passenger side of the intercooler, which leads me to believe it is the engine cooler.
hey istead of cutting the plastic piece, I believe it was the brake duct, could you have just heated it up in that particular area with a heat gun and kinda bent it around the housing so no cuts would be needed??
Another very good 📹 👌👌👌👌
Great Video!! thanks
did you test this part ? is the oil temp still come up to 14X oC in track or drifting ?
Nice upgrade!
I hope you are adding a serpentine belts protector around the crank seal just thought I'd mention it I know you want to prevent any damage
Yes I have one ready to go on.
For your next upgrade, if possible can you do a review on ID4 motion retrofit cluster?
I reached out to the company, based on their customer service I can't be affiliated with them unfortunately. Sad but they must not be ready for mass exposure given their interaction with me.
thoughts on a water to air intercooler for an N54, I've always had this in mind.
however I've never seen it executed on an N54
www.spoolstreet.com/threads/n54-water-to-air-intercooler-street-build.3516/page-3 check this thread.
That's interesting, thanks for the info.
Someone adapted the B58 intake charge cooler to the N54.
@Vehicular DIY Today on my way to work when I was getting on the highway (2008 328xi 6MT) in 3rd gear and gave it like 3/4ths of a full pedal and my car instantly started misfiring and the service engine soon light came on. The car was driving like a typical situation when you have a bad coil. When I got to work I shut the car off and when I turned it back on it was fine. I just drove home and it seemed fine and the light didn't come on. I had my mechanic install new OE plugs and coils about 6 months ago.(car just flipped 89K on the clock). It was pretty cold today around 35F and the car was not totally warmed up when I jumped on it but it had been running for almost 10 minutes I'm guessing. I plan on getting it but I haven't bought the bimmergeeks scan tool yet lol. Will it still show a code if I have my mechanic scan it tomorrow, even though the light isn't on anymore? Any ideas why this might happen aside from a plug or coil issue. To anyone else that's reading this, warming up these cars before you do any spirited driving is something that I think cannot be overstated. Thanks man!
How long did the misfire last before you ended shutting off the car? Typically if the car senses a misfire due to fuel it would deactivate the injector and after about 10 minutes it would reactivate of it would reactivate once you turn the car off and back on again.
@@VehicularDIY less than 10 minutes. It seems fine now but I'm gonna get it checked out. Not likely that it was just a one off event right? I mean there must be some underlying problem or could jumping on it cold have caused it? I tried to make it happen again today (but after it was warm) and it operated as normal.
@@VehicularDIY Would also add that the engine with 89K runs as smooth as glass and quiet as a tesla compared to my friend's N55, like literally no noise, no lifter noises or any other engine noises. I recently did the tension pulley and belt as maintenance but it didn't seem like it needed it. I've had the car for a year and a half and "knock on wood" haven't had a single issue with the car aside from a turn signal socket issue and currently have a headlight that is on and off with some sort of short somewhere so I'm gonna get new headlights anyways cuz I don't care for the stock ones. The car although low on mileage is getting up there in years so I expect stuff to start breaking soon although I know many ppl say the N52 is pretty reliable. Anyways, thanks for the videos, I really learn a lot from your channel.
Any update on how this held up over time, no leaks or other issues?
Thanks
My E93 didn't come stock with an oil cooler and I'm doing a retrofit. I have a radiator bracket from the junkyard, but I'm sure if the black bracket it attaches to comes stock on base model trims? Just making sure because if not I'll have to remove the entire from crash bar frame and rebolt it back in just for the bracket in which case I'd rather just weld something on. The retrofit kit from FCP Euro doesn't picture the black bracket so I'm hoping it's stock on all models.
I was upgrading to a 7.5 intercooler and you have to cut some plastics and I punctured my radiator I think gas came out and dripped some green stuff
FYI wasn’t my radiator it was my ac condenser ended up changing it and having a ship put Freon in
I was really excited until your "get the engine out" joke.
You got me good on that one
Great video but time for a feature length video showing how to put the engine back in)
Yeah I need to get on that lol.
Dumb questions:
Is oil running through the cooler or just coolant?
My BMW doesn't have an oil cooler (n63tu3) so can I still use the adapter plate someplace on the filter housing? I don't believe there's a thread on filter in these motors. I don't know where or if there's an oil cooler valve either.
The oil cooler kit is very good, especially the price. I also think it's good that it uses the original screw points. Only one big problem, again not available in Germany. All the kits here are mega expensive, I've been looking for a long time and this seems to be very good.
Buy it from aliexpress www.aliexpress.com/i/32796950092.html even cheaper
What about the warm up time ? I live in the UK so its not as warm as in the States , it can't take up to 8 miles or more in the winter for the needle to move , its better in the summer and when its fully warm it hovers around 90/110 Celsius , I don't track the car but drive it hard in the hills and it seem very hot, and just a thought , do you think it would be better to leave the engine cover off to aid cooling?
Good afternoon friend. I would like to know if it is possible to just change the hoses/oil lines (for better ones) and keep the original oil cooler and oil cooler thermostat housing with thermostat. It's because I live in Brazil and here we don't have many professionals capable of adapting parts not oem. I have a bmw 335, 2008, N54, and I have leaks at both ends of the original oil lines, a leak in the oil cooler connection and another in the oil cooler thermostat housing with thermostat. So I thought about changing just the hoses/oil lines, however the originals are very expensive and I thought if I could replace them with non-original ones, but with good quality and even better heat dissipation. However, the oil lines/hoses used in your video have different connections in the oil cooler, reason why I would like to ask if you know oil lines with the same connection of the original/oem oil cooler. If so, could you please help me and recommend the store that I can order them? I have friends living in US that can buy the oil lines/hoses for me and send to Brasil in case the store does not ship to Brazil. I really appreciate your help. Tks
Thanks for the great vids. Quick question: when you change the oil, do you some how drain the cooler too or do you not concern yourself with the 1/2 qt of oil?
Thanks, you pretty much not concern yourself with the 1/4 to 1/2 qt of oil that would remain in the cooler and lines.
Hey, love watching your stuff. First how much to cost to get a new engine? second, Im assuming this will work with the 135I since the the n54 engine?
Thanks, it cost $2000 and unfortunately I don't believe that fits the 135i.
@@VehicularDIY the reason I ask is because that front subframe/area and mounting bracket is the beside the wheel liner. I honestly think ill pick it up and give it a shot since it only $150. also the picture shows that it comes with orings so Im not sure if I should still get those. also that a great deal for the engine and where did you pick it up from including shipping?
I've thought about upgrading my thermostat housing for my F32, and also a better oil cooler. Im off to Google and see what I can find. Thanks for the video and reminder!
How would you "upgrade" your thermostat housing?
US $117.00 10%OFF | Fit FOR B M W 3 SERIES 335I E90 E92 N54 BLACK 25 ROW BOLT ON OIL COOLER KIT UPGRADE
a.aliexpress.com/_mt7fniV
You install the BMS oil cooler housing valve...then your oil is always flowing.
@@machtschnell7452 ruclips.net/video/-puqszn5-CA/видео.html
i got anxiety just seeing your car torn to pieces lol. omg.
Same here
Did you have an issue with tire pressure monitoring after relocation?
I believe this is the same for e82 n54 i just order one hopefully is no difference :). Do you think i can fit a fan there ? Youre the best n54 youtuber
Would you have to drop the oil in the engine when taking off those oil cooler hoses to install the an fittings ???
What kind of fitting are they on the oil cooler hose lines. An10?
Is this worth doing to lower temps?
love your vids. i have a 2011 335 w/65K miles which has currently valve cover gasket leak (typical rear left corner), a coolant leak (havent identified where yet, but radiator was replaced a year ago)- just today my heat doesnt blow hot air anymore and its freezing here in PA. Was going to do the valve cover gasket and save money and let shop do other two things. Any thoughts on the heater issue? I tried the coolant bleed procedure, thinking maybe air in the system- i thought i felt some hot air initially after the bleeding but then was gone. I didnt want to do it twice as i didnt have battery charger connected. Thanks for any input. Its been a good car but seems like all happening at one time right now!
Thanks, do both the upper and lower rad hose feel warm? Any codes for the thermostat?
@@VehicularDIY I did my homework! I felt the upper and lower hoses one felt warmer then the other so that is good, I did the bleed process and water pump worked as it should, I tried all vents and all blow cold. I’m stumped! What else can I troubleshoot? The temp rises to operating normally bewteeen 160 and 240, so can’t be stuck open thermostat either.
@@VehicularDIY I don’t have a scanner to check for codes I guess I should get one?
@@VehicularDIY I think I might try the heater control valve
any update on how the cooler is doing. i want to know how the longevity of the cooler? i was considering these for the price point or building a oil cooler with the vargas block off plate with a external thermal stat. im looking between this cooler vs the mishimoto.
So far it's good, still running it and putting miles on it. I was waiting for the oil lines to potentially act up based on feedback but it's good so far. I think they're find as long as you route them properly. Been a few months now.
Is the oil cooler still holding up? Can you do a update on it. Was thinking about getting it even thoo it hasn’t been too long since you installed it
It's holding up, I've been keeping my eyes on the lines as people mentioned they only lasted a couple months. I think if you route them where they aren't under any strain they'll be fine. Lets see. I'll update the description if something happens.
Where does the top cooler fitting connect to? Drivers side on the thermostat housing or passenger side.
Where did you buy that engine from? Hey I’m in the same predicament as you . However, I’m having trouble finding a place to buy an n54 . most of the sites I came across have really bad ratings and look like scams. Your suggestion would help me out big, bro. Love your channel btw, It’s very helpful.
Thanks, to be honest I wouldn't recommend the place I got it from. Have you checked car-part.com?
@@VehicularDIY oh okay thanks man. I’m gonna check car part now
Will this work on a 2011 740li with n54? Thanks in advance
Did you have any issues with leaks at the oil housing and adapter? I’m using factory o-rings and the fit does not feel sealed once I put the lines on. Following up to ping question again. 10/11/22
Hey!!!! Love your videos. Wondering how much you paid for your Msport conversion parts? Trying to buy some but seems like they are asking a lot for parts.🤷🏽♂️ great video!
Thanks! I bought the parts from a junk car and they needed a lot of work. I paid a few hundred for the hood etc.
@@VehicularDIY cool! Junk yard is asking 400 for the head and tail lights wanna make sure I’m getting a good deal lol. Wanna convert mine too after seeing your videos!
How much extra oil did you have to put ?
Could the metal uro oil filter cap contributed to engine failure? I've considered getting this part but not heard good things about it online.
I don't believe so, if the cap failed the oil pressure would have just dropped by a few psi.
Link for the OEM O-Rings no longer works. Possible to get an updated link? :)
do a fuel pressure regulator repair kit install from fcp 😅
Way back I made a video on replacing the FPR.
Is there a orientation that the lines go in
Does this kit work okay with the BMS thermostat? I can’t see why it wouldn’t, but that’d be my luck.
I'm not sure but I can't see why it wouldn't.
Do you have an updated link with the G-plus unit?
Hey my N54 started giving me rod knock, I did a compression test and all cylinders are above 160. I haven’t taken my engine apart yet to see the severity of the damage but I stopped the car and have not driven it since the knock. Do you recommend I buy nee bearing and crank or would a new engine be better. I’m thinking crank and bearings only because the engine still seems healthy. It has 117,00 miles.
You'd have to take the bed plate off and get pretty deep into the engine so at that point you may want to disassemble and have a machine shop see about saving the crank. If it was me I'd be buying another engine if you can get it for around 1500 to 2000 to your door.
What happened to the original engine? Thought it was running well per the compression test video
Yeah it would still have had great compression but I'm leaning toward a bad oil pump.
10:07 careful with rocks and other crap can ding it up easily
How did that oil cooler hold up over time?
oil cooler = spun rod bearings ?
Excellent !
So I know you are supposed to fill the cooler with oil so the engine doesn't lose oil pressure on startup, but are we supposed to fill the oil cooler lines as well?
I plan on it, filling the lines and cooler.
Am I overlooking sth, or did you forget the most crucial part of swapping out an oil cooler?
You absolutety NEED to prefill it, otherwise the oil pump will just pull air from the cooler when the oil thermostat opens for the first time!
Would I be able to retrofit the n54 oil filter housing with oil cooler on my non oil cooler n54 e90?
Did you consider installing it as an additional oil cooler on the other side?
I'm thinking if I wanted additional cooling maybe a small fan could be mounted to that cooler.
Will this work on a 08 535ix?