Your BMW May Be Missing This Critical Part! So Important!
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- In this video install a new aluminum oil filter cap upgrade on my E90 BMW. I install this on my 2008 335i with the N54 motor but this fits a vast majority of BMWs with different engines.
I summarize how important it is to ensure the cage inside the oil filter cap is present. I go over it's function in detail.
If you're interested in purchasing the upgrade cap you can do so here (affiliate):
bit.ly/34peEJu
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I'm a bmw master tech, when I have an N5x engine with vamos faults it's absolutely the very first thing I check. Cause of fault 50% of the time. That's green o ring can also cause them. If it's a crap filter and that oring is all squared out it will cause them also.
You put out good videos bud. Been with bmw about 20 years and use to frown upon all the diy stuff, but as I got older and more humble I realized the diy crowds info is an important part of my mental tool box!
Thanks for chiming in! It's interesting to hear the perspective of a BMW master tech. From my perspective BMWs tend to start being mechanically totaled around 8 to 10 years of age, you can pick them up for pennies on the dollar compared to new and the only way for it to pay off would be if a DIyer picks it up and references videos like mine. Even the best independent shop would likely need to charge more than the car is worth for some jobs. So if more people feel comfortable DIYing a job the longer these cars can stay on the road. They could be on the road for 12 to 14 years instead of the typical 8 to 10.
Awesome!
I'm IT professional and I built my own two car garage years ago by myself. Whenever I had the building and electrical inspectors over (they were super helpful btw) they always told me that DIYers tended to be the most respectful of building codes (going above and beyond) and doing quality work as they had more time and a vested interest in the job!
👍🏻 for being BMW Master tech. Nice to have specialized skills on a great marque. Love my bimmers. N52 and (wife's) N20.
What you said in your first reply is spot on to what we all say, I work with 30 other techs and most of us drive BMWs that we bought from a distressed seller and we made them right. Hell my 335 is close to 700whp and I bought that very care because of vamos faults the seller was having and was just fed up lol
As for the n20, don't fall too deep in love. I know I always see the worst of things but it's that engine (and n63s) that I see the most of. The n20/6 has not proved to be the most stout lil fella.
Depending on it's mileage, what state your in and if it's a sulev state or not I'd start getting bmw to do as much as they can for free now with extended warranties like timing chains ECT. Lots of turbo failures as well, pretty sure I have a spare n20 turbo sitting around if you ever need a core just let me know and Ill ship it to where ever for ya
@@Thefringefitnessproject thanks Matthew! Yeah I wish she had gotten The I6 vs I4. 2012 X1 Canada spec w x-drive. I had the timing and oil drive chains done pre-emptively couple years back after reading about the weaknesses. My cost unfortunately but I have good relationship w local dealer so they gave me good deal. She has only 50,000km I do as much maintenance as possible myself new oil/filter every 5,000km etc.
Any reason turbo fails in particular??
👋🏻
If anyone engineered an all aluminum water pump for the N54, they’d be a millionaire
There actually is one but this guy (0-60 YT channel) bought one; only issue is he’s in Australia
You are right about aluminum water pump, even better if a engineer put together plastic to aluminum kit for BMW N54 and N55 engine this would be great for DYI doers
I found 2 part numbers for the "INA" aluminum water pump: 611176026215 & 538019210. Apparently they sell this at O'Reilly Auto Parts
@@cupompa
@@SteveWeltman INA 538 0192 10 is compatible with the N54 engine (cf. aftermarket.schaeffler.de/de/catalog/auto-parts/cooling-system/water-pump-gasket/thermal-management-module/water-pump/p-TA-1260-5380192100 , in german) - but also quite expensive.
I bought a PIERBURG 7.07223.02.0 (cf. mam.rheinmetall-automotive.com/mc/epaper?guid=173a3e69a074d32b , also in german :-) ) for my N54 335i , which also has an all aluminum housing and it is a lot cheaper than the INA (...at least here in Germany; btw. both are German companies). I haven't installed it yet, so cannot give any info on durability.
EDIT: Found the Pierburg 7.07223.02.0 Product Info in English as well: mam.rheinmetall-automotive.com/mc/epaper?guid=1744d3188b81bd2b
This is by far one of the best things I have seen. There is hardly any content on this. As usual your awesome keep them coming.
I've had this part on my car for about 4 or 5 months now no issues works great no leaks
Nice thanks for the feedback.
What’s the part number
@@richmiller6383 I bought it through rock auto.
Cant remember part number.
Just picked up my 09 e90 335i yesterday. Been looking at your videos for over a year building up to getting the car, keep up the good work
Awesome, enjoy it!
I bought an N55 E92 335i last year and the engine went on it shortly after. I found out from the PO that when he changed the oil he noticed the cage was missing, so over a period of 6-odd years I think that lead to the demise of my rod bearings!
I was also informed by a BMW specialist that the o-ring doesn't only act as a plug for removing the oil filter, but it has a capillary effect and helps to hold oil pressure/volume in critical areas for the next time the engine is started.
Had this same issue few years ago . I changed the oil from one of those express oil change places and manager did it himself. But the next day the car would shut down every red light and have to wait 5 to 10 minutes to turn it on again . They denied their fault and bought a new one I believe for 50$ but ya I learned my lesson since then .
Express oil change place? Somewhere that doesn't even have qualified technicians let alone a qualified mechanic.
You get what you pay for.
Someone should come out with a kit that would change all the plastic parts of the engine with aluminum replacement parts that would be nice.
100% it would appeal to a lot of people.
It would solve virtually every problem on the n54.
Hellyaz
That Kit might be heavier than any Singleturbo Kit. 😂
Great video! Never thought of the cap to be a weak link! Thank u!
Very detailed explanation on the cap, it’s components and functions. I have an aftermarket blue billet cap on my N54, however it utilizes the original plastic cage. At $27 I will grab this item and see if the cage will fit on my current cap so I can keep the colored accents in the engine bay. Thanks for this video. 👍🏼
i did my first oil change on my 335 and when i removed the cap to take out the filter, the cage wouldnt clip back on to the backside of the cap and so it stayed in the housing and ended up oozing oil all over lol... now i see why! im deff getting this! thanks
rebuilding my n54 , all of your videos are 75% of the work i need to accomplish. god bless you sir !
Awesome, good luck! I hope to do a build video one day.
,
I had this exact issue. One of the places I got my oil changed (never again) ended up breaking this piece off and I had limp modes for years, and the engine was obviously pulling major timing. Finally diagnosed this myself and it was like getting 100hp back!
Wow it must have felt like a new car when your replaced it.
What engine? Interesting that the engine survived so long with reduced oil pressure.
@@chetanjiva5997 It was an n54 engine in a 135i. Im happy to say it is still working with no issues!
Limp mode for years! Should have had the problem sorted after a few days rather than waiting years, wonder what damage was done to the engine after running in limp mode for years.
The only downside to a billet cap is that it gets so dang hot. I was used to being able to lean over the plastic one. I have a nice burn mark on my arm from my first day with it after getting the car back together when I was sorting out the PCV and catch can hoses.
Thanks for the content as always. I’ll bring my car down your way one of these days. Maybe a TX2K weekend.
I went to an oil change place that I used to with my previously owned N51 128i and they threw this cage...took me a day to realize that was the reason for my rough idle and Vanos issues and codes, I thought the solenoids were bad. I got it replaced with a new one but the problems never went away, and the power was down. luckily, my car was still under warranty and the dealership changed the cam phase variators. Went back to the shop and they just acted like idiots and said they never saw the car before. That was my turning point with BMW's and shops, I do all of my work now if possible. The memory makes me angry every time I remember.
I had a similar experience, I still have my x3 but who knows how much damage was done driving the car for a whole day with the cage missing. I didn’t go back to the shop because they wanted me to tow the car to them and they would have charged crazy amounts for the diagnostics and other stuff. I just hope this didn’t cause too much wear on the timing chain guides of the n20 motor.
Not so long ago had a customer with N55 who did oil change and didnt put cage back. He ruined his engine within 5 minutes after oil change. Also bypass valve allows unfiltered oil to feed the engine and its how all the filters works but if the cage is missing its worse than situation when bypass valve is open because all the oil remains unfiltered.
Used to owned an N54. Great car with reliability issues but I loved it. Keep up the good work!
This is great! I've been looking for a filter cover for the past 2 weeks and this model never came up! only the billet ones. Buying it right now! Thank you! Great content! Keep it up!
Dude thank you so so much, you addressed all my worries, went to a take 5 oil change and although I can’t confirm it the cage is moving.. I’m relatively sure they forgot either an o-ring or cage. Been driving for about a month now since I haven’t had the money to replace it with constant low oil pressure warnings (baby driving it the entire time ofc). I even asked the shop if they perhaps made an error and of course they didn’t own up to it whatsoever. Will be ordering this and seeing if I can get it installed at local mechanic with new oil change. Got 1 misfire and got a VANOS error yesterday so finally will have the money to fix, just needed research
Edit: Car is a 2013 535i
When I start documenting my build, you good sir will be whom I will point to when asked. Well done.
Always top tips! I like the way you think; too many plastic parts that heat-cycle out after a number of years and become reliability limiters. Thank you so much for posting. One of my RUclips heros!
Make sure the treads are lubed everytime the filter is replaced to prevent galling. If the plastic cap is changed periodically you shouldn't have problems. I've installed the aluminum and I think for all purposes the plastic is fine. Keep a spare. Like the man says replace the orings and make sure the cage is in place and functional. Again keep a spare. I might just try an aluminium cage with a plastic cap.
Many after-market upgrades are just smoke and mirrors. Not all, removing the swirl flaps on an M57 engine can be an engine saver. You just have to know what you should be spending the your time and money on.
You are more right than you think...tolerances on that thread were designed for a malleable plastic cap. Just buy one oem plastic oil cap and replace for free with FCP Euro life time warranty every 20k miles.
You might've just saved my car. I'm gonna check it tonight
I’m checking mine first thing in the morning!! Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
Thanks for all the hard work you put into these videos to help us. I really appreciate it man
Mate, these alloy tops are okay but use the OEM insert or you will have problems
Thank you so much for this video, one of the only videos on this issue. I just replaced my cap that was missing the housing with a brand new bmw one, hopefully my vacuum leak issues fix. My car RPM randomly spikes up a bit sometimes and the car drives forward on its own. VANOS codes are on as well. Will let you guys know if it is resolved!
Awesome find from URO. Fits both E9X 335i and F30 335i with the N54/N55 engines. I wanted a billet oil filter cap for my E90 M3 S65 V8....no joy. The URO piece looks cast not machined. Not sure about B58/S58 aluminum oil filter caps.
Burger Motorsports makes a very nice billet aluminum Oil Filter Cap in Black/Blue/Red that fits N54s/N55s. You have to keep your plastic cage and transfer it to the billet aluminum cap. You might try the URO cage in the Burger cap. I bought a spare BMW OEM plastic cap (in case the old one breaks or the billet piece leaks). Move that new plastic cage to the billet cap.
Yes I was worried about not installing the cage for the oil filter. GREAT info thanks 😊
Thanks for this, just ordered, I randomly get a VANOS exhaust code even though both intake and exhaust solenoids have been swapped to brand new OEM parts. Engine has 60k miles so most likely not the cam ledges and I'm almost 100% it's the cap as the cage is super loose, way looser than it should be. Fingers crossed.
Wow, great find bro! I've been considering upgrading to one of the fancy after market solutions for quite some time. I just could never justify the hefty price tag. (God I hate plastic engine components...) But for $28.00 - I'm in... already ordered one! Thank you for this and all your excellent DIYs! Much appreciated!
I think you understated the issues with this. I do all my family's maintenance except oil changes and was working out a vanos issue and a few oil leaks on my step fathers e90 328i and found this was missing presumably since the last oil change which thankfully was only a few days earlier. In my research this is a more catastrophic issue between the volume and the unfiltered issue I don't see a motor lasting nearly as long with the cage missing. As you said even less so the more the thing is 'used'. Anyway great video as usual, just don't underplay the importance of this seemingly silly little part.
Thanks, I cringe thinking how many daily drivers could be running around with the cage missing.
This is most likely the cause of the timing chain guides failing on some of the cars. I this experience with my x3 n20 and somehow feel the damage will show up in the later years.
I’m going to order it for my Z just to brag to my other bmw friends
De burr the aluminum oil filter cap and cage because it's cast and there is no quality control so there are aluminum chunks on the entire cage that can fall off and get into the motor.
Having problems on an M57 of low oil pressure when hot at idle and truly believe this is the problem.
This was my problem soon as I replaced the cage my bmw is perfect no more vanos codes or rough running thx
Thank you, friend.
Glad to follow you transforming this engine in a "million" one :)
I can't imagine any BMW owner throwing that part out, but I can see oil change places doing it. I would get that part just because it looks cool and easier oil changes..
Thanks for the info. Just ordered two, one for the F25 and the other for the E90.
I heard a clanking sound coming from the oil cap. I opened it up to find the cage came off the cap. BMW really just makes some nasty plastic parts. And very cheap gaskets and seals. I would never buy a BMW if they weren't so much fun. LOL I get this part upgraded. Thank you
Vehicular DIY, thank you for sharing another awesome video and continuously educating us, more power to you and to your channel.
Bought one! Thanks alot for this video! Greatings from Stockholm Sweden.
best n54 channel ever
so much good information on this video for BMW owners. Good thing to do your own oil changes too.
Love your videos. I coughed up the extra dough and got the burger tuning metal oil filter cap in red. It looks cleaner and is CNC machined instead of a rough cast like this one.
Excellent video, thanks a Million! I'm ordering that Aluminum cap and cage today!
Like another video if the plugs missing you will blow your motor up .well done no more oil pressure warnings
I have to buy one anyways because I tore up my stock filter cap on my first oil change. Sucker was wrenched on there by 3 overgrown gorillas, I guess. I have a buffing wheel so think I'll polish it! Thanks!
Should polish up easily, good luck!
@@VehicularDIY Well, I'm gonna have to wait. They want 18 bucks to ship. 🥴 They are like 2 hours from me. Kinda ridiculous. Oh well, gonna be awhile before my next oil change I'll keep an eye out for something similar I guess. Or figure out what else I need and throw it in the cart so I get free shipping.
Defiantly going to be upgrading this next oil change on my e60 👍🏽 thanks man
Was doing the oil change on my M4 last week and my cage broke .., the spring shot the cage and tabs into the hood (found it all ). I ordered a replacement but did not go with aluminum . Why ! If the metal fatigues over time and fails any pieces of metal would be far more dangerous inside the filter area than plastic like with what happened to mine .
Unless a company comes out and makes one from billet or is cnc’d or is of a quality stainless I couldn’t trust any of the options out there. If it’s a cheap Chinese cast metal I’ll pray for you guys 🙏🏼
Excellent video, I was looking for something like that , thank you !
Excellent Video Sir.
An upgrade that BMW should've have done in the first place. They are slowly making these cars out of plastic and everything is cheap rubbish these days.
Thank you! Going to order the part now!
Awesome find!!! Thanks for the info 👍👍👍
Matt, thank you sooooo much for this. I’ve gotta look into it on my N52. My idles have become drastically unstable and since I don’t drive it a lot (quarantine things) I speculated it was vanos solenoid/filter issue (I’m at 227K). However, I got my oil changed recently and wonder if this is the culprit. Whether it is or isn’t, this is a good upgrade as you noted, moving away from plastic OEM pieces
It was explained to me that this missing part effected my N54 engine so bad that I actually was starting to get a knock
pretty cool, but looking at that oil you should have taken the opportunity to change it, it screams for a change
Thank you so much for this video sir! It was super helpful 💯🙏🏽
Wish you were in Southern California. Great videos.
Again, you are spot on!
I bought a 2012 z4 35iS and had the same problem, engine codes, limb mode etc. All was fixed by a new filter cap WITH the insert. Btw I highly recommend changing gear and differential oils too. Including gear filters and gearbox mounts.
Interesting. But I have never heard anything like that happen. On the other hand, who knows what people do to their cars.
The cage was missing on all used bmw that I have purchased in the last 15 years. Always check.
That is a great upgrade, and I'll probably get it. But I just wish they would have cast a square 3/8 or 1/2 into the top so I can just use a ratchet to get it off. I still don't have an oil filter cap socket.
Yeah would have been a welcome add on for sure. I think it probably just keeps their R&D cost down to completely mimic the oem piece but make it in aluminum.
Just got a 328i just did an oil change at a buddy house and saw that I was missing the cage I am getting p0012 code changed the sensor cleaned the vanos and gasket to the vanos does rough idle I'm assuming this can help going to drive the car to the store and get a new housing
I purchased this oil filter cap and installed it. Next oil change I was not able to remove it. It cross threaded in the oil filter housing. Maybe i tightened to tight, but i tighten my plastic caps the same way but they never did this.
Needless to say I am replacing my oil filter housing with a new one. This is my experience with it. Maybe I am a one off thing or maybe it is more common. I don’t know.
I wouldn't trust any uro parts, saw a uro replacement aluminium transmission pan kill a gearbox because the clearances were wrong
Could you create a dedicated playlist for all the plastic to metal upgrades you’ve done?
The standard plastic caps break because people over tighten them.
I had this happen to me kept showing me engine code after hard pulls.
Were they vanos related codes?
I'm also curious...
Where did you last have your oil changed?
@@VehicularDIY if I remember correctly it was a low power code this was a few years ago. But the car would run fine until you would start pushing it hard and the CEL would turn on right away. The reason I figured it out was because I had read it could be the vanos solonoids so I replaced them and at the same time i did the oil change myself and noticed it was missing the cone. I had recently bought the car was a 2007 335i very cheap from a friend. I sold the car few months after but now I just got back into the N54 with a 135i very fun
Great video. If the oil filter bypass is missing or not working well, what would be the symptoms(sound coming from the engine or oil pump)? Since the sensor is before the filter, then a clogged filter or faulty bypass valve would cause higher oil pressure readings?
This vid has been in my mind and plans for a long time but I decided to purchase a plastic stock OE replacement oil filter cap for general maintenance and to avoid an inconvenient age or wear-related plastic part failure. The Casey Schmidt video at ruclips.net/video/cQ6vpv22uaU/видео.html influenced me to avoid a metal cap and the possibility of metal shavings or fitment issues with the filter cage. Thanks to Vehicular DIY for raising the filter cap analysis and best wishes to the community.
@bmw328iowner8 Thank you sharing the link. I will also go replace my OEM plastic with new OEM.
Looks like it could fit the M57 as well.
Darn it I just pulled the trigger on 1 without the cage!!
Great video.
Quick oil change places have been snapping the cages off since day one. Jiffylube or snappylube?
My BMW doesnt have any cage, but then again, it has n62b44 V8 engine with oil filter housing at the bottom of the enging, no drain there :D
I’m having a lot of vacuum on my engine that is hard to pull out the oil cap.
Been seen and hearing a lot of rumors about this filter cap specifically that it leaves metal shavings in the oil could you make an update video or give us an update on how the filter cap is doing to this day??
Same, partly why ive stayed away.
@@OGYELLOW I just got an OEM one yesterday
Ordering one asap, the plastic cage on mine doesn't even latch on the cap anymore.
NO. Do not use this metal cap. The center cage is too firm and negates the relief valve action. Also, the center cage does NOT fully seat into the back of the cap because the metal clips are too hard and have no give. You will have to dremel down some of the hard edges on the sides of the center cage base in order to get it to fully slide past the core metal clips. But the most dangerous part of this poorly made cap is the fact that the relief valve is too hard and requires too much pressure.
I ordered one, did an analysis and decided to not use this unit. It's still on my shelf brand new.
@@matreyia Are you still running the stock cap after your CTS & K&P oil filter caps? Also, do you think this cap caused his motor to blow from as you state negating the relief valve?
@@cupompa - I run the stock plastic cap because I see a difference in pressure required to press the core spring. I also threw away the CTS and KP oil filters. I don't know enough to say definitely that this caused his motor to blow up...but I always play it safe when I see even a tiny difference in design between aftermarket vs. stock components.
The only after market parts I use are ones that do not require complex moving components such as springs etc. For example, I replaced all relevant plastic connections with billet aluminum to take them out of the equation. My N54 is quite bullet proof by now. No expendible components are plastic or brittle. Only the highest grade silicone hoses or piping.
@@matreyia Thanks for the reply. Guess I'll go with the BMS cap with OEM cage! Might even buy this URO housing (cheap enough) and experiment before application with it's metal cage in the BMS cap instead as someone in this comment thread has had success with that combo. I am in the process of changing out plastic for metal components in my stock engine bay. All I need left are aftermarket silicone vacuum lines, a metal oil filter housing cap, outlets, inlets, charge pipe, intake manifold, & debating on a VVT valve cover.
I've only changed out the stock coolant flange & oil fill cap ($70+ down star hardware) at this time with metal. Next steps for me are that protective crank plate (kies) & metal power steering pulley (URO) while doing the belt/tensioner service. Also learned about a metal water pump made by INA (makes stock tensioner). So I'll try that when my stock one fails.
@@cupompa - The OEM cage for the oil housing cap is what is most important. That is the only reason why I chose to stay with the plastic stock cap. If you use the metal cage...that defeats the purpose of doing anything since that metal cage is the only thing that is different in design and function. If you order the Uro metal cap, then do this: try to push on the metal center core that sits against the spring on the center cage...it is nearly impossible to do. Now, do the same thing on the plastic oe cage...you will find that it is almost effortless to move that center core cap against the spring. And THAT is why I am not using this Uro metal cap.
Thks for sharing
Great information. But I can't find the link to the product.
Have you ever thought of doing a secondary cat delete & replacing them with Vibrant 1792 resonators & then getting rid of the stock resonator & putting in an X-pipe. Maybe putting in BMW PE mufflers or 335is mufflers?
My car already had it's secondary cats deleted by the previous owner. I think I'm going to keep the exhaust relatively quiet but open things right up if I convert the car to single. N54s sound great with single IMO.
Excellent advice, v
I had one with cage missing and it was throwing oil pressure light when idling. I think we uncovered this like minutes from big failure.
I need help! I serviced my 08 335i this weekend and I noticed that when I loosened the oil filter cap that alot of oil overflowed and made a mess, I've never had it this bad. Then I realized my cage was stuck onto my oil filter and so I pulled it out and attempted to clip it back onto the cover but it didn't snap or clip into place. Now I have a VANOs code pop up every now and then for the past few days, could it be because the basket isn't clipping into the cover?
Thanks I’ve struggling with the misfiring issues yet no light is coming on but now I got a good starting point but pls can you tell me the part name as I don’t see the link
Great work you did
there appear to be concenrs around this part on the spool street forum conversation. I think this requires a more in depth video / discussion.
I read that, nothing that stands out and ECS vouges for it. I'll run it and definitely report back if I encounter any issues.
It this the same for all bmw engines, mine is a 2010 E90 318i
Can I replace it without draining the oil? I started getting vanos selenoid codes after my last oil change and I'm pretty sure they threw away my cage cause I already replaced the selenoids and the check engine/codes are still intermittent.😕
Hey! I bought an F series steering and airbag. Going to upgrade my E93 steering wheel soon.
Awesome, good luck! Are you guying to try to get the controls working?
Vehicular DIY im going to try without the module. Mine has shifter paddles tho. I don’t care much about the steering controls. 😉
Hey can you please do a video on how to prime the oil system and fuel system after engine works
Yea I can blame the tech because whatever he put back wasn’t the same as what he removed. Gotta use your head.
I'm going to get one of these for my N52.
I'd be worried about aluminum flakes getting in the engine with this cap.
Can this problem exist on vw mk7? They have something similar and I got oil pressure code after the adapter broke.
great video!
Thank you very much for the video. I saw a lot of oil leaks around this filter slot. Especially downside. Do you think it is something serious or just the plastic ring & filter has to replace ?
Waste of money, the only reason these crack is if they have been over tightened.
My 23 Yr old 330 M54 with >170k is on the original (it has the same housing). Composite plastics are incredibly string now and much lighter. Weight is the killer of all performance aspects of a car braking, turn in, grip etc and can't be overcome by simply adding more power. If you're that worried about it cracking just change for a new OEM plastic housing every 150-200k
If someone uses a rag and pliers to get it off then it ovals and cracks over time.
U mentioned that oil goes from outside of the filter to inside. But on my old engine I cut the filter and I had metal shavings in inner side of the filter every time. Doesn’t make sense
Mine was missing for over a year driving