Episode 91 - Coil and Spark Plug Replacement 2001 Ford F250 5.4L 2 valve
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 23 ноя 2022
- Welcome! In this video I replace the coils and spark plugs in my 2001 Ford F250 named Ms. Mildew. I did this as I had some cylinder misfire issues that wouldn't go away. I'm glad I did as the plugs were long past their expiration dates and were quite fouled. This video is specific to the 5.4L engine they put in the F150 and F250 of the time.
I did misspeak when talking about the PCV valve. Called it PVC valve on accident. Sorry.
Want to see more videos? Visit my channel below!
/ mazdab3k
WARNING! This video is for entertainment purposes only. Do the actions outlined in this video at home at your own risk. 
Авто/Мото
Very well done thanks mate 👍
Make sure you do have the plugs seated. The two valve is known for ejecting spark plugs that are not torqued to spec.
Great video
Thank you!
Great video thanks
Thanks! This one takes a bit but you get plenty of access for coil, plugs and injectors if you need to do that at the same time as well.
Good video. I’ll be doing the same soon. I wouldn’t mind removing and replacing vacuum hoses, so maybe that rear passenger one will be much easier. I heard you say that the 2 valve didn’t have issues like the 3 valve with spark plug issues but I’ve research it does have the issue. Something about only having a few threads in the intake for the spark plugs, not having proper torque specs from the factory and spark plugs work lose or worse yet, pop out and strip out the hole. Supposedly it should be at least 20ftlbs of torque vs the lower factory specs. Not sure about them getting stuck, torquing them too much and breaking something.
You are correct the two-valve does have the short thread count issues with the spark plugs. When I made this video I got that mixed up with the three valve. I myself haven't had that issue on either of the two valve 5.4s that I have. However, as you saw in the video I torque until it's snug then maybe a 1/16th inch more. I've never had spark plugs issues in any vehicle doing that.
Thanks for the video. I'll be doing this on my 2001 Excursion next week. You'll find this funny, but what they call Finger Condom bandages, at your local drug store, are great for covering the end of injectors....or any pipes, hoses, etc... :)
I think I've actually heard of those. Might be a worthy purchase. Thanks for.... the tip :)
@@MazdaB3Kjust the tip. lol
Did you have to Gap the new plugs??
I did not as the factory generally does a pretty good job at pre-gapping plugs these days. If you think they need to be gapped, make sure you get a set of feeler gauges or the bar style gapping tool. DO NOT use the coin gapper tool that you can find everywhere. Those can damage the plug while you attempt to adjust the gap.
Is the f250 5.4 engine the same as the 5.4 in the F150? Do your your Transmission has a drain plug?
Looking for a reliable work truck for hauling at least 2500 pounds of parts
Great job 👏🏿
The 5.4L was offered in both the F150 and F250 so yes, same engine. My transmission does also have a drainplug, which is quite handy. You don't have to drop the pan in order to do a drain and fill.
@@MazdaB3K thank you 🙏🏿
All your videos should work as well for the super cab?
I believe so. The only caveat would be that only the Crew Cab had two interior dome lights, but the single one the Super Cab has is identical, just only one of them. I have a video about replacing the door locks that should apply as well at least for the front doors. Super Cabs have suicide doors in the back yes?
I just have one dome light, unless you are including the white light that shines on the bed when the dome is turned on.
It's a 4 Dr but gotta open front doors first.
Did you ever get the forward torx bolts off the bed?
Thank you for the videos.
Nope, dome light is interior only. As long as your super cab is a 5.4L two valve, all my videos thus far should apply.
That I did not. The front torx bolts are quite rusted in place. Considering the state of my bed(poor condition), it will be easier to use an air chisel and chisel the bolt heads off, then lift the bed off. After that there's plenty of bolt to grab with locking pliers and easy access to where the bolt actually threads in for lubricant and get them out that way.
On a scale of 1-10 how hard was this.
As it's the 2 valve 5.4 nothing got stuck so I'd say 5/10. Nothing about the process is particularly hard until you have to service the passenger rear plugs near the firewall. That can be made easier if you remove all the vacuum lines coming off the throttle body. I chose not to because those lines are old enough I might have damaged them removing them. If you cleared out all the lines I would say 3/10.
@MazdaB3K thank you. I've done plugs and coils on a few cars but. All this talk about the 5.4 and having to take the fuel rail off has me scared lol. Going to get on it in the am. How long did it take you?
It took me a few hours. Filming generally doubles the time it takes to get something done so 1.5 hours would be a good time if I had the camera off. I went a bit slow as I had to take extra time to clean out the spark plug wells of junk that had built up in them since my truck sat under some trees for a few years before I rescued it.
When you do detach the fuel rails, the hardest part is keeping the injectors corralled. You can either remove the rail off the top of the injectors or you can pull the injectors out of the intake and keep them attached to the fuel rail. Whichever direction you go make sure that you don't lose any of the injector o-rings. They like to get stuck places if the injectors haven't been pulled in awhile.
Also make sure you plug any empty holes in the injectors up as you work. Holes from either the fuel injectors or the spark plugs lead directly to the cylinders so you don't want any junk falling in there.
Ford calls for 13 ft. lbs of torque on these 2 valve engines but screw that. If you torque it down to 13 ft lbs you risk a spark plug blow out. I always torque mine to at least 22 ft lbs. Some guys torque theirs to 25 ft lbs.
I've always done turn to snug, then an 1/8 or so of a turn after. Never had a problem. About the only time I'll break out a torque wrench for spark plugs is if there is a known issue of failure if you do it outside of OEM spec. The 3 valve 5.4 comes to mind.