I have the same trk. Don't have to remove the fuel rails. I do remove the air filter assembly. On #7 i use a swivel socket....no problems. I just installed my 3rd set of plugs...i have 310,000 miles and bought it new 20 years ago.
Got a 2003 F150 with the same engine. My plugs need changing and I didn't think it was going to be possible for me to get those 2 rear plugs out because of the tight area to work in, but after seeing this video and watching you do it I have confidence that I will be able to get them out.
First, thank you for making the video. Couple tips for the next guy. To take off the air intake, undo the clamp at the air filter then the whole box lifts out. There are two plastic clips on the bottom that push into rubber grommets. There will be one wire to disconnect. Then it's easy to remove the rest, undo the hose clamp at the back and disconnect 1 sensor wire and two hard plastic lines. This plastic is not brittle so don't worry about breakage too much. the lines just pull out. One has a short rubber hose.
Good video... But you don't need to remove the fuel rail to remove the coil packs or spark plugs... And on the passenger side near the 3 coil back is a schrader valve to release the fuel pressure first...
Good video, my advice is to have a pick set for the fuel rail o rings and a decent size telescoping mirror with led pen light to see up into the fuel rail openings, also a magnetic 5/8 socket is way better than the rubber ones getting stuck down in the motor on the top of the plugs, good idea to take the rubber spark plug holder boot out, clean it and the socket and black RTV silicone it into the socket for better hold
Just did my 2001, dont need to remove fuel rail at all on the passenger side for sure. May help a bit on drivers side but i did it without(but its harder to do).. Take time have a 1/4 and3/8 drive swivels and varierty of extensions and its sastifying work
If your coils are original, I would recommend changing them. If you are running good, no misfires, or check engine light, might get by with plugs only. Just have to see once you dig into it. Good luck.
I was thinking about doing mine, but only have 70K on my 01. I won't ever have to do plugs at this point - if you guys are the example of when to do it...😂
Great video getting ready to tackle this project on my own . I was told it's very common for the spark plugs to break off in the head so hopefully that doesn't happen
The 97-03 4.6, 5.4, and 6.8L 2V engines do not have this issue. It is 04 and on that do. These older 'spark plug well' designs suffer from blowing out due to under-torquing. MAKE SURE TO torque your plugs back in from 20-22ft-lb's instead of the recommended 13 ft lb's. Look it up from FordTechMacuLoko if you'd like a certified voice in the matter.
That’s on the 2004 and up 3 Valve engines, not on the older 2 valve engines. The older 2 Valve engines had the problem of insufficient torque on the plugs causing them to loosen and blow out of the heads.
Watched a couple of videos before doing mine. If you could do this without removing the fuel rail, hats off to you, but really it is just two 8mm bolts and it is out of the way. I went ahead and replaced coil boots and fuel injectors since everything was already there. Use a pick to get the o-ring out if it gets stuck in the fuel rail.
Changed plugs on a 2003 5.4 with 374000kms on it, saying that there is no need to remove the fuel rail at all. every coil pack can be removed and the plugs without a lot of problems, just time, time, and more time, and if a little blood scares ya, best to get a mechanic..
It be a little easier if Ford didn’t stuff The engine so far into the firewall You have to lay on the engine just to reach in The coils come out without touching the fuel rails
thanks for this video, I was able to replace my 2001 f150 lariat. it was a pain in the arse, but I got it. haha.. I'll take it though, my buddy has the newer f150 models and the newer spark plugs are prone to breaking and you only pull out half of the spark plug. they are a piss poor design.
22lbs torque and a droplet of blue locktite for added security for the notorious spark plug blowout and good to go! Compressed air in my opinion should be a must for cleaniness too.👍🏾
On the driver's side, the second to the last plug towards the fire wall, did you have to take off the fuel pressure regulator to get to the plug? Those are the only two left for me to do. My truck has 398,000 and I had 6 original coils. It actually ran fantastic until a week ago, I had the sputtering between 40-50, supposedly the classic signs of a bad coil pack. With the 6 replaced it runs like new but I want to do them all of course because the last two are definitely original. The plugs were last replaced at 350,000.
i might add that you should be careful with having so many open plug holes at the same time and make sure that you dont blow any screws or tiny bits into the holes or you could scar the piston and or cylinder walls
I was able to do the passenger side without removing the fuel rail. Driver side, second from the back,is tight. Probably will have to remove the rail. 7/8 can be done without removing the rail. Not a fun easy job but doable
At least part of the views are us commentors. Another part of views are from people we bought our trucks from. The other views are from people about to sell their truck and 2 views are from original owners. 😂 Thank you for taking the time to upload. Do you still have your truck or is it the one I just bought and want to sell already?
Thanks for the video...i got 2001 f150 and its misfiring shakes when driving but i have coolant leack i see it at front cylinder 1 and 2 and #2 is misfiring I think thats what causing misfiring #2 Any help please Thank you.
That Could possibly be contributing. The intake manifold has a cross channel for the coolant. Look underneath the intake and look for coolant. The intake manifold would need replaced. I wish you could just change out the channel but it is what it is. It's not a bad job. Roughly around $180 for the intake. Definitely get a second opinion. But good luck.
@MountaineerMapleDIY Thanks for quick response, what brand intake u recommend? i heard all kinda of stories about that still not sure whats best thanks again.
@@MountaineerMapleDIY those r the one's u need a swivel socket for...much easier. 1/4 inch drive swivel for coil pak bolt and 3/8 drive for spark plug.
@@angelf9800 you could, maybe with some silicon spray. If they are hard to get back on, make sure they gave you the correct ones if they are replacements.
I have been told if you remove injectors replace o rings and lube with bulb grease so the injector will slide right in without binding the o ring if it not your gonna have leaks
The plugs you pulled out might not be original. My '01 F150 had the plugs with the short threads (notorious for blow-out) and the plugs that replaced them all have the longer thread like the ones you pulled out and the replacements you put in.
Sir you really don't need to remove fuel rail otherwise you plan on replacing fuel rail injector gaskets you could use a 7mm square wrench to get to the coil screws so you don't remove fuel rail becuase once you remove the injectors gaskets you must replace them with new ones or you may have a leak on the road if not properly placed and gaskets are stretched from removing them so they don't seal like they suppose to so i didn't mess with those when i did my truck
This actually the only video where he shows you how to move the fuel rail. Thank you🙏🏾
I have the same trk. Don't have to remove the fuel rails. I do remove the air filter assembly. On #7 i use a swivel socket....no problems. I just installed my 3rd set of plugs...i have 310,000 miles and bought it new 20 years ago.
Thanks. My fuel rod is bent so I don't want to pull it but I need to change my plugs
don't even need to touch the fuel rail to do this Just take bolts out on Coil packs. Pull out and away lol
I didn't need to remove the fuel rail either.
Got a 2003 F150 with the same engine. My plugs need changing and I didn't think it was going to be possible for me to get those 2 rear plugs out because of the tight area to work in, but after seeing this video and watching you do it I have confidence that I will be able to get them out.
First, thank you for making the video. Couple tips for the next guy. To take off the air intake, undo the clamp at the air filter then the whole box lifts out. There are two plastic clips on the bottom that push into rubber grommets. There will be one wire to disconnect. Then it's easy to remove the rest, undo the hose clamp at the back and disconnect 1 sensor wire and two hard plastic lines. This plastic is not brittle so don't worry about breakage too much. the lines just pull out. One has a short rubber hose.
Best video I've found so far for doing this. Thanks!
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you for this video! I replaced my coils and plugs with this video. They are a pain in the ass compared to my Bmw or Acura.
Good video... But you don't need to remove the fuel rail to remove the coil packs or spark plugs... And on the passenger side near the 3 coil back is a schrader valve to release the fuel pressure first...
I've seen several folks in different videos say that, but no one has said how to do it without moving the fuel rail!
You def do not need to remove the fuel rail
It just takes a bit longer but you avoid messing with fuel which is always better
@@jrkormana 1/4 rachet with a swivel and the smallest 7mm socket you can find will get it out
Nice video. To the point. This was about the only vid I could find on the 2 valve.
Good video, my advice is to have a pick set for the fuel rail o rings and a decent size telescoping mirror with led pen light to see up into the fuel rail openings, also a magnetic 5/8 socket is way better than the rubber ones getting stuck down in the motor on the top of the plugs, good idea to take the rubber spark plug holder boot out, clean it and the socket and black RTV silicone it into the socket for better hold
Thanks for the video, can't hardly find any 01 2valve videos. I'm getting ready to start on mine wish me luck lol
Good luck!
Just did my 2001, dont need to remove fuel rail at all on the passenger side for sure. May help a bit on drivers side but i did it without(but its harder to do).. Take time have a 1/4 and3/8 drive swivels and varierty of extensions and its sastifying work
I have to do this on my '02 F150 this week. Original plugs and 274,000 miles. Probably need a couple of coils, too.
If your coils are original, I would recommend changing them. If you are running good, no misfires, or check engine light, might get by with plugs only. Just have to see once you dig into it. Good luck.
I was thinking about doing mine, but only have 70K on my 01. I won't ever have to do plugs at this point - if you guys are the example of when to do it...😂
Great video getting ready to tackle this project on my own . I was told it's very common for the spark plugs to break off in the head so hopefully that doesn't happen
The 97-03 4.6, 5.4, and 6.8L 2V engines do not have this issue. It is 04 and on that do. These older 'spark plug well' designs suffer from blowing out due to under-torquing. MAKE SURE TO torque your plugs back in from 20-22ft-lb's instead of the recommended 13 ft lb's. Look it up from FordTechMacuLoko if you'd like a certified voice in the matter.
Ford tech maculoko is the BEST!!!!
That’s on the 2004 and up 3 Valve engines, not on the older 2 valve engines. The older 2 Valve engines had the problem of insufficient torque on the plugs causing them to loosen and blow out of the heads.
Great video! Much appreciated!
a 1/4 rachet with a swivel,small extension and the smallest 7mm socket you can find will get the coil pack bolts in the back
Watched a couple of videos before doing mine. If you could do this without removing the fuel rail, hats off to you, but really it is just two 8mm bolts and it is out of the way. I went ahead and replaced coil boots and fuel injectors since everything was already there. Use a pick to get the o-ring out if it gets stuck in the fuel rail.
Changed plugs on a 2003 5.4 with 374000kms on it, saying that there is no need to remove the fuel rail at all. every coil pack can be removed and the plugs without a lot of problems, just time, time, and more time, and if a little blood scares ya, best to get a mechanic..
good video, thx!
It be a little easier if Ford didn’t stuff The engine so far into the firewall You have to lay on the engine just to reach in
The coils come out without touching the fuel rails
New subscriber here. Great video Thanks much
thanks for this video, I was able to replace my 2001 f150 lariat. it was a pain in the arse, but I got it. haha.. I'll take it though, my buddy has the newer f150 models and the newer spark plugs are prone to breaking and you only pull out half of the spark plug. they are a piss poor design.
Awesome. Than you
22lbs torque and a droplet of blue locktite for added security for the notorious spark plug blowout and good to go! Compressed air in my opinion should be a must for cleaniness too.👍🏾
great video I might have to do this soon
I was hoping this video would show the removal & replacement of the firewall plugs on driver & passenger side.
On the driver's side, the second to the last plug towards the fire wall, did you have to take off the fuel pressure regulator to get to the plug? Those are the only two left for me to do. My truck has 398,000 and I had 6 original coils. It actually ran fantastic until a week ago, I had the sputtering between 40-50, supposedly the classic signs of a bad coil pack. With the 6 replaced it runs like new but I want to do them all of course because the last two are definitely original. The plugs were last replaced at 350,000.
I did. Just remember if you do, you might want to get a new set of o rings for the injectors. They are easy and inexpensive.
What all kinds of swivels did you have to use to get the plugs out.
I didnt need to use any. 3/8 drive with 6 inch extension worked good.
i might add that you should be careful with having so many open plug holes at the same time and make sure that you dont blow any screws or tiny bits into the holes or you could scar the piston and or cylinder walls
I was able to do the passenger side without removing the fuel rail. Driver side, second from the back,is tight. Probably will have to remove the rail. 7/8 can be done without removing the rail. Not a fun easy job but doable
No anti seize on Ford plugs per Ford.
Why didn't you change the coils?
Where’d you get the rubber in that goes in spark plug socket at?
That's a grommet. The sockets sold as spark plugs sockets should come with one. If not amazon or walmart should have one cheap.
At least part of the views are us commentors. Another part of views are from people we bought our trucks from. The other views are from people about to sell their truck and 2 views are from original owners. 😂 Thank you for taking the time to upload. Do you still have your truck or is it the one I just bought and want to sell already?
I still have mine. I've put a few scratches on it pulling my tractor out of the mud twice. It's 21 yrs old now, but runs great.
Thanks for the video...i got 2001 f150 and its misfiring shakes when driving but i have coolant leack i see it at front cylinder 1 and 2 and #2 is misfiring
I think thats what causing misfiring #2 Any help please
Thank you.
That Could possibly be contributing. The intake manifold has a cross channel for the coolant. Look underneath the intake and look for coolant. The intake manifold would need replaced. I wish you could just change out the channel but it is what it is. It's not a bad job. Roughly around $180 for the intake. Definitely get a second opinion. But good luck.
@MountaineerMapleDIY Thanks for quick response, what brand intake u recommend? i heard all kinda of stories about that still not sure whats best thanks again.
I use 1A Auto a lot. I have been for about 5 or more years. I always use them for my brakes. But I would recommend them.
@MountaineerMapleDIY alright You're very kind helping out. Thank you very much.
That's 2468 on the driver side I got same motor
Just the same question as always... how come you didn’t show the removal of spark plugs 7 & 8?
Not sure, I will have to go back and check. I did replace them all though.
@@MountaineerMapleDIY those r the one's u need a swivel socket for...much easier. 1/4 inch drive swivel for coil pak bolt and 3/8 drive for spark plug.
I wish someone could showed how to read a gap tool I need .054
Did you lube the oil rings to put them back in more easier
Are you referring to the O rings on the fuel injectors?
@@MountaineerMapleDIY yes
@@angelf9800 you could, maybe with some silicon spray. If they are hard to get back on, make sure they gave you the correct ones if they are replacements.
I have been told if you remove injectors replace o rings and lube with bulb grease so the injector will slide right in without binding the o ring if it not your gonna have leaks
how much do you have to gap the spark plugs
He said, 54 and 56 thousandths
The plugs you pulled out might not be original. My '01 F150 had the plugs with the short threads (notorious for blow-out) and the plugs that replaced them all have the longer thread like the ones you pulled out and the replacements you put in.
I wS quoted $1600 because the shop wanted to break the plugs off and drill them out.
Wow! That is crazy.
Sir you really don't need to remove fuel rail otherwise you plan on replacing fuel rail injector gaskets you could use a 7mm square wrench to get to the coil screws so you don't remove fuel rail becuase once you remove the injectors gaskets you must replace them with new ones or you may have a leak on the road if not properly placed and gaskets are stretched from removing them so they don't seal like they suppose to so i didn't mess with those when i did my truck
$400-500 at the dealership? Buying all the plugs and packs on Rock Auto is practically $400
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Terrible video. You didn't show actually taking the plugs out. The most important part. Or putting them in.
i cant see shit. tough to even see whats going on.