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You mean the sensor? Possible. Standard however has decent quality as long as it's not their T-Series of parts. Honestly Standard is the only brand I can still find this sensor new in.

I realize I should have worded this better. I noticed timing chain rattle at around 280k and did the timing set then. From what I saw, it was the original timing set. Ford recommends doing a timing set every 100k-150k, but it can and will last longer as long as you change the oil and filter as per manufacturer's specifications. I believe the Oil Change Interval (OCI) for the 5.4L 2 Valve is 5k miles.

Thanks for the reply I use Costco Kirkland brand 5w30 motor oil changing it every 3000 miles I've had truck since 116000 miles. Previous owner did excellent maintenance. It's a 6 speed manual manual transfer case with manual hubs crew cab short bed torridor red. Runs like a top!!

Thank you for your comments. If you do a bench test of a good Motorcraft glow plug it should be 2 ohms or less. One of my theories as to why the system wouldn't work right is that I put anti-seize on the plugs which somehow altered the resistance reading, even though as you saw in the video all the plugs ohm'd out fine once installed in the cylinder heads. I have a new glowplug harness on my todo list to install, just haven't gotten around to it yet.

And this video helped me get the power steering pump redone but I'm also gonna replace the power steering gear box cause I found a leak on it.

A new steering box is on the to do list. A reman bluetop so it's actually tight. I don't think it's leaking... yet. I was watching a Junkyard Digs video and they mentioned an adjustment I didn't know about I may try first.

Yeah, this unit was smoked. There was silver coming out of the pump. It was the most thrashed pump I've every seen.

MC and booster? Dang. I'm glad I was able to help solve the problem. I first fought this issue on a '94 Ranger, first truck on this channel.

Correct. I realized this after I made the video but the tire iron is supposed to be used as the crank to raise and lower the spare tire, as well as raise and lower the factory supplied jack, which I don't have. I'm finding using a wrench is much more convenient and portable. Thanks for watching multiple things on the channel. Every little bit helps to pay for more investment in this channel to bring better and more interesting things to you guys.

No. The inlet (fuel going to carb) is bigger than the return (excess fuel leaving the carb and going back to the tank)

For replacing the dipstick, Check amazon, ebay, partshawk or your local ford dealer. If you can't find anything there try your local junkyard or car-part.com For your second question, is the plug fouling in the cylinder or is oil leaking onto the plug from outside the cylinder? If it's the first case the oil control ring of that piston could be worn or stuck so oil is getting into the cylinder. Could also be a leaking head gasket. If its the second case, check around the plug and see where oil might be leaking externally into the plug well. I'm not very familiar with the V10 Triton engine so I can't offer much more advice than that.

@@MazdaB3K thanks for that I can’t find the dipstick location everyone says it’s on the driver side next to manifold I still can’t find the port at all any clue

@@seanoconnell9366 Chase it up from the oil pan. Get under the truck and look on the sides of the pan for where the dipstick tube starts. Once you see that, follow it up into the engine bay to find the location of the tube in the engine bay.

@@MazdaB3K yeah that’s the problem I get under the truck and I’m right under the oil filter and the oil pan and it’s not there. I can’t follow it up to anywhere cause it’s not there. It must’ve broke off or rusted off. I bought the truck from somebody and I’m fixing it as I go. Sorry to stress you out but I’m just a stress. I gotta get it fixed before I blow the engine.

@@seanoconnell9366 I was reviewing my owner's guide on my truck yesterday and I saw the oil dipstick is in the same location on the V10 as it is the V8. In that case the oil dipstick tube is going to come up from the driver's side of the oil pan and would be sticking out towards the front and near the driver's valve cover. The dipstick tube itself is a press fit into the oil pan. There's an o-ring that goes on the end of the tube that is pressed into the oil pan, but no bolt. There is a bolt that attaches to the driver's cylinder head to help hold the tube in place and keep it from rattling around. I did a quick look on eBay and found the tube itself. I'm sure it can be found for cheaper but with this you at least have a picture of what you are looking for: www.ebay.com/itm/275353132501?fits=Year%3A2003%7CModel%3AF-250+Super+Duty%7CMake%3AFord&_skw=oil+dipstick+tube+2003+ford+f250&epid=13017002548&itmmeta=01JDYQN5KQNTR537HZ56JY5K3Y&hash=item401c535dd5:g:GnwAAOSwpDhiTci9&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKldWnByDSgSgk901D%2B5ORgGTYaD6EhjMI64lKlutWUXOz%2Fnpzhiuoaxvk6859GSdDmKYTg56rGsqcaya5dc2SnePAvirGlS0i3haGeXd6JFcAfNNalKJ05GwGINtBoihbxcKUN7kddtNKF3sCQ1nfWw1sdweXY659QOX0HvB0rvhMiB3f072In%2BQGPWVUiJmKR3OiSswVSRkYkBOlpj1on4z7EyC76xyKaTx8OchKWgPXm%2BCtnf9SBKH3byuM%2BS8ZiZNaSl0GyJ%2B8gej4vdDRFx6fNpIyEF48wNg4s%2FsjNkt646nM8DM%2FUrhdaMFo%2FW44Q%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM_NnU1-9k

Really? It's a blend door replacement. This is nothing specific to it being a conversion van should be pretty cut and dried Ford repair stuff. In any case, know you know how to do this.

If it's not broke don't fix it. I would worry more about the big vacuum line turning into a brittle rock and breaking from time and heat cycles of the engine

@ thanks!

Same here. Thanks

Somebody watched this one? Nice! I was pretty proud of this one as I really couldn't find any content like it already out there.

@MazdaB3K Yes, and it was a tremendous help. Thanks again

You mean pack them with grease? The old school way is to put a big wad of brake grease in the palm of one hand and hold the bearing in the other. Take the back edge (back being the larger diameter side of the bearing) and PUSH the grease into the rollers by pressing the bearing and scraping/dragging the edge along your palm in the big wad of grease. If your hand isn't feeling raw by the time you're done you didn't press hard enough. A bearing is "packed" when you can see grease pushing out from between each roller in the bearing. You'll need to rotate the bearing as you make passes through the wad of grease to make sure you are getting grease packed all the way around the bearing. That's the old school, no tools way of doing things.

If you have a full floating axle, you have a true Super Duty or a 350 or up truck/van. Those are going to use the bigger brake shoes and drums.

Depends on if you want to visit a locksmith. If you take the new cylinder to a locksmith they can repin it to use your existing keys before you install it. That's what I normally do.

Thanks!

That connector does get quite nasty. That's why I had to do this repair twice. 1st time I was able to clean the contacts only, but then that failed and I had to install a new unit.

I'm honored to be your first sub. Having the motorcraft plugs should help and as long as the harness isn't a hack job that should be fine. Biggest issue is the controller relay or the controller itself. They are very finicky, which is why you see at the end of the video that I bypass the controller and go manual.

Have you checked your Brake On/Off Switch? Assuming you have the E4OD, if the transmission does not detect your foot on the brake, it will not allow you to shift out of park. If you think it's a physical issue with the shifter stalk itself, could be the spacers that go on the shifter shaft in the steering column. If those break it can jam the shifter or make it so sloppy that you can't put anything into gear.

Glad my video was able to help you out.

I've replaced a bunch of the sensors on the truck fighting an issue where the truck hangs on to 1st gear waaaaay too long. I've made videos about how to do most of that replacement work. Should be under the playlist for this truck. That being said, my tac sensor is fine. I've notice it has a few points worn from it not being secured properly, but I haven't found any broken wires really in that area. I vaguely remember that the signal for the tac sensor takes a funny path into the instrument cluster. Might be worth your while to make sure you have solid wiring on the printed circuit paper stuff they wire the cluster together with. I know on my instrument cluster I have a few leads that are about to give up the ghost that I had to superglue back in place so I could reinstall the cluster.

Is this when you are moving the ignition switch itself, or from rotating the key? When the glow plug controller is working right, the glow plugs should fire in the run position. If the light is constantly flashing it means your glow controller is trying to fire the glow plugs but for some reason can't keep the glow plug relay closed to run the plugs. You are hearing a constant clicking noise too right? If you don't have tilt steering and your key positions seem right, the ignition switch is probably ok. It more sounds like you need to troubleshoot your glow plugs or glow plug controller. I have videos for both on my channel. However, I think in '85 the glow plug controller was a different design than than the one they put on the '89.

@@MazdaB3K I tried setting the switch interrupter at the acc position tightened it up and is working perfect thanks, Very Much

@@jandjmca1 glad you were able to figure it out

Thanks! I intend to get working on this one soon. I've had to deal with some other needy vehicles recently but getting this one to move under it's own power would be nice as I need it to move. I have since this video put fresh rubber under it so it sits off the ground now. Weathered Hurricane Helene as well. Proper Florida native now.

Nope. Swampy north Florida for me. What's a Chicharraz?

I appreciate the kind words. I do what I can.

Perhaps... but the trimmer is working fine so... maybe I know a little of what I'm doing. Follow the video or not, it's up to you.

It should be that the unit will power up as long as it's getting power from your house. If it's not, my guess would be your control board is bad or you have a loose connection going to the control board.

I used 10 gauge because I had it lying around.

Is that what 90 degree pliers are called? Never knew their actual name.

Motorcraft item is Ford F87Z-18495-AA Heater Control Valve Assembly. There are clones of it offered by various manufactures as well.

​@MazdaB3K Thank I have the same problem, but in reverse.

This has surprisingly turned out to be one of my most popular videos. Glad that it helped you out.

If you have the E4OD, yes. Button is located on the panel next to the steering column. If you got C6, no overdrive button as the C6 doesn't have an overdrive. Both transmissions were offered in '89

Yup

De nada.

For that one is mainly clicking and popping while turning and accelerating. I was also getting popping when accelerating or letting off the gas.

@@MazdaB3K Was there any fluid lost when you removed the axles?

@jean-pierrehall2914 yes, expect to lose some unless you drain it down prior to axle removal. I just did the cv axle on my wife's 2010 fusion. It has the same 6f35 transmission and it lost about 2 quarts when I pulled the driver axle.

Glad that I was able to help.

You are most welcome.

Engine in question for this video is a Triton 5.4L 2-Valve.

I can't speak to the Dualies, though I should compare what I bought for the 1989 F350 I have when I redid it's rear brakes. As to the HD F250, that's going to use the wider shoes than the non-HD F250. Non-HD F250 and F150 use the same brake hardware in the back. Non-HD 250 and F-150 get semi-float axle, HD F250 and F350 get Full-Float. For 1998 and below I think in the OBS generation.

No. The blend door is designed to be pulled out towards the interior of the vehicle, and in order to do that the heater core has to move out of the way. If you wanted to try and access from the engine bay side, you would need to open AC lines, drain freon and remove the evaporator. You can see the blend door if you remove the blower motor, but you can't remove it from there.

Barbaric... First time for everything I guess. I do say in the video after I pull the console for the first time I pulled it wrong and to pull differently to avoid breaking clips. Watch me do it wrong so that you can do it right.

From what I was reading he was definitely in the mix, as was Ford. Thunderbird sounds correct for the common chassis used. I can't wait to get into this one. I have a few other projects that need a little love first though.

That I did.

@@MazdaB3Kdo you have links to the adapters by chance? Can’t seem to find these ones

Ask and ye shall receive: www.amazon.com/dp/B09MVJ18FB?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder_k1_1_20&amp=&crid=2NKFUM245E107&amp=&sprefix=ford+speaker+wire+ad

You are most welcome.

I tried that the first time around and while I did get the filter in, I managed many of the pleats getting it in. I salute you for being more dexterous than me.

@@MazdaB3K It's a challenge for sure. I think it might vary based on the filter manufacturer too. Some are stiffer than others. The last two I've done have seemed stiffer and more difficult to accordion into the slot.

You are most welcome.

Because of how the heater core lines are setup on Fords, it really doesn't matter. I followed what I found when I did the replacement but as long as the coolant can flow in a loop through the core you are good to go.

I remember I liked putting this solution together. It was clean and bolt in, no funny wiring or anything necessary. A little expensive because I had to buy two separate kits, but I didn't mind the cost because it was essentially a drop in solution.

Check valve is fine, though I did have to make my own HVAC vacuum tank. I made a video about that actually. Wound up strapping it under the passenger dash and no more issues with the vents going to the floor under acceleration.

Valid point, but the lock cylinder is brand new as I had to drill out the old one. Vehicle was sold to me with a frozen lock cylinder. Also had to replace the ignition switch at the base of the steering shaft and that super annoying little metal piece that broke in the tilt column to get all the ignition positioning working correctly. I'm glad this glow plug video is helping folks out because it was a PITA that I knew i had perfectly good, ford glow plugs but the controller wasn't working. My manual solution is still working just fine.