This is the same issue i was having on my truck, same year of truck and same motor and mine was the same issue the EGR valve. thanks for the video was a big help
Behind the throttle body is a vacuum line going to the PCV valve it changes from like a quarter inch line into a half inch hose and failure occurs right there where it attaches behind the throttle body where you cannot see the leak
I was also wondering why you didn't search for a vacuum leak or pull some vacuum lines to see if the idle changed...maybe command the egr through the scanner....I did like the current ramp test...very cool test!!!.....I am a little more old school in that I start searching basics first....I know Matt hates when we talk about visual inspections and poking around without leads or direction....He blows his top when we do that....but I have been searching for leads that way for many years now...I have found so much wrong with drivability problems without ever cracking open my scanner or scope...excellent case study so far!
had the same problem in my 2001 ford e350 super duty 5.4 v8 and replaced the intake manifold and the coils works like a charm now ,before it wouldnt even past 40 mph
Sounded like a Misfire.I had a 2003 5.4L F-350 XLT and it had over 297,000 Miles.I could pull 14,000 lbs with it using 4.10 Gears and that's not even how much they truely can haul.I also had a 2002 5.4L F-150 Supercrew Lariat and it was a reliable Truck as well,only got to 204,000 Miles because the 4R70W and Driveshaft took a shit and needed to be Rebuilt.
Schrodingers Box Great question, Matt! The severe up-down surging itself steered me away from a traditional vacuum leak, which would cause much higher fuel trims if it was messing up the idle this much. The fact that it ran smooth and trims were good at higher RPMs should have steered me away from ignition altogether too...But since it was a Ford I was determined to find at least one bad ignition coil haha. Ironically, being burned by that red-hot EGR pipe while unplugging an ignition coil was the "Eureka" moment lol It's great that the battery was dead before the truck came to the shop, erasing any valuable stored DTCs to make the diagnosis more fun :)
I agree with not thinking its a vacuum leak because i would think they would be a lot higher at idle over 20 to make the engine run so rough. It does sound like it may be egr related one quick test to see if you have egr at idle is just to put your hand on valve if its hot its flowing, also using a vacuum pump to valve engine off and listening for pintle slamming down and seating.
Ok Ivan I'd look at the Maf and fuel pressure and why not do a injector balance test , am I getting close to winning a T shirt :) Oh yeah the IAC , hey I'm going full Danner on it as you can see LOL
No way , PVC, brake booster but I think that truck is a hydra boost , and egr are all vacuum leaks- exhaust sound is the clue Ah , this is getting better all the time HA......
I think I would pull in a second channel and maybe look at that coil that didn't have the good turn on oscillation. Could be a secondary problem. Although by the sound of the engine in the video it has more than one misfire.
I have pretty much nailed my brothers 2000 model Subaru.Forester which has a surging idle, it's not the ECU but I found out how to put it into diagnostic mode using the green & black connectors underneath the steering column & I got a code 54 which is an air intake problem. He took it to a mechanic who didn't want to touch it as his scan tool wouldn't communicate with it,the point is the car is an OBD 1.5 compliant car as it's an Australian delivered model,it was throwing me off because I wasn't getting any pulse with my LED test lamp yet no injector fault codes were recorded for them, maybe the mechanics scan tool was an OBD2 one. I think that code 54 has been set because the idle air control valve is stuck open, it's also thermally controlled by coolant temperature & the throttle position switch is telling the ECU that the engine idling. So I ordered another idle air control valve for $48 AUD which should fix the problem,the point is it's a simple problem to fix if you know what's wrong with it !
Hi Ivan I am learning a lot from following your channel. Thank you. Also really enjoyed when you teamed up with Eric O. I noticed that as you raised the RPM the fuel trims numbers on both banks improved and when you let off the gas they increased again. From what I have learned from Matt's channel would suggest to me that the fuel trim behaviour shown on your Autel are symptomatic of a Vacuum Leak (maybe bad intake manifold gaskets on BOTH banks is what comes to my mind). I wouldn't suspect a dirty MAF or weak fuel pump because the fuel trim numbers would have increased as RPM increased.
motoYam82 Just noticed Absolute Throttle Postion at 19.6% during idle. This seems high and suggests the plate in the throttle body is probably open and unable to close due to carbon build up. This would result in unmetered air entering engine and causing lean condition on both banks. I'm sure you must be 1/2 can of carb cleaner lighter by now.
toyo toe So why do you think the air flowing by the throttle flap would be "unmetered"? I didn't see any tears in the air pipe between the MAF and the TB, so I think the MAF is accounting for all the incoming air through the TB...
motoYam82 Thanks for correcting my mistake. Does a V engine have 1 pcv valve or 2 ( one for each cylinder head)? If 1 pcv for both heads, then I suppose if valve faulty, would allow unmetered air into intake. Would check to see if it is difficult to physically pull the dipstick out of its tube or connect a vacuum gauge into dipstick tube to see how much vacuum is being pulled.
toyo toe That's not a mistake, but a "thought experiment" :) Now a crankcase vent system usually consists of a inlet vent taking in fresh air upstream of the TB (no vacuum), and one PCV valve that lets vapors into the intake manifold (vacuum). So even if that was a path for air around the TB, the MAF would still see it! I guess the only way you could create measurable vacuum in the crankcase would be to plug that fresh air vent...another interesting thought experiment.
+nicholas elias I think the next step I would go is do a simple power distribution test to see If I can find a non contributing cylinder because it sounded like a dead miss. If it ends up positive for a cylinder, then I would use a COP probe to see if the secondary ignition is at fault. If it turns out inconclusive and all are contributing and no issues with coils then move on to maybe a vacuum leak, a dirty MAP or a stuck EGR
i get the feeling that truck is not long for this world given the amount of rust all over it had to ask was it even a viable option cost wise, given the cost of all the repairs needed?
+Gylan Underhill Oh that's just body rust; frame is still OK :) This thing putts around the farm every day hauling hay and manure...a lot of life left in it still!
Trim numbers got better with a few rpms ,Steve has it covered i think , If not then trade it in on one that runs . lol But on a serious note, i am liking the 708 . may have to get one for the times my ultra is not working
wtbm123 Just got a call from my friend's shop. He's trying to bleed a '97 Caddy Seville ABS system and their Snap-On Solus Ultra doesn't have that auto-bleed function. Neither does my Verus. But the Autel 708 does! Go figure...
ive got a v10 f350 and found the wiring 'grommet' out of the air filter housing out and mine was doing the same thing....popped it back in with a little silicone to stick it and it was schmoooth as it gets.....
Reason the CEL isn't on is because if it had a bad coil the light would be on, a boot problem wouldn't show up however. I work on these trucks regularly and I like them, which I like my 5.0 Explorer from 99 so I'm probably out to get it
The computer can only monitor the primary side of the coil, hence the "primary circuit fault" there can absolutely be a problem with the secondary side of the coil and would not set a DTC. If the secondary shorts to the primary, no spark
Question so my Ford F-250 Super Duty was running fine I pulled into a parking lot put it in park the engine rev up high then it started to miss can you help me with the answer
+motoYam82 No Ivan, not really a Ford guy, I drive a Caravan...(worse). I have been a tech for bout 47 years and lived through the EGR valve very common failure years, 70s and 80s. We used to stock the most common ones. I was a little surprised you went to the EGR when I started watching part 2 after my comment. I give you a lot of credit since you're smarter than I thought you were. {:-) I used to lightly touch the EGR tube or check to see if the tube or valve would melt a tire crayon. We didn't have infrared thermometers back then.I'll keep viewing your vids, I might learn something.
+wysetech2000 Wow 47 years...you must have some amazing repair stories to share! Do you prefer working on vintage pre-fuel-injected vehicles or the newer computerized cars? I love tinkering with carbureted motorcycles and cars too...maybe that would make for an interesting video series? Setting ignition points and tweaking the idle mixture is becoming a lost art :)
Yeah, trying to retire but they keep calling me into work. I prefer older stuff but newer is more of a challenge. Sometimes I think I could write a book on what I've seen over the years. A series on older stuff would be cool. If you need help just ask.
Partner it's just a work truck so you know it is what it is but I think I do like a lot of other people do motherboards and other vehicles find me a used LS and put it in there swap it out it'll probably pass inspection again then
The Excursion,F-250,F-350,F-450,& F-550 came with the 5.4L & 6.8L 2 Valve as a Gas Truck and the 7.3L Powerstroke from 1997-2003.During 2003,they came out with the 6.0L Powerstroke but you could still get one with a 5.4L or 6.8L and they changed them to the 3 Valve up to 2008,and then they came out with the 4 Valve and 5 Valve,until the Tritons were discontinued in 2014.The 5.4L as the 2 Valve/16 Valve is 260 HP/303 lbs of Torque and then the 6.8L as the 2 Valve/20 Valve is 300 HP/325 lbs of Torque.With 3.73,4.10,or 4.56 Gears,those Tritons can handle serious Weight.In the F-350,both the V8 & V10 can do up to 20,000 lbs,but don't expect it to go fast.I had a 2003 5.4L F-350 XLT that had more than 297,000 Miles on it and I use to pull 14,000 lbs with it on 4.10 Gears.I just got a 2002 6.8L F-450 with over 385,000 Miles and it has 4.56 Gears on it.The major flaw with the Tritons is how they get 8-9 MPG and that's just in the city.By all means,I love the Powerstroke,but the Gas Trucks are just as good,you just have it cheaper to maintain,more RPM,and it's easier to Start in the Cold than a Diesel which requires a Block Heater.The 7.3L is 250 HP/525 lbs of Torque,more Torque always matters,and a Powerstroke has more Fuel Efficiency than a Triton which is a big plus.
you asked at the end "where would you go from here?" i would siphon out some gas and burn the truck.... lol JK i would do a fuel pressure test as there is no CEL judging from that life of the truck that to much dust ... mud AND rust would clog things up it might be as simple as a clogged intake filter or fuel and and i would check the electronic throttle body and clean it. if everything is fine and the truck is still rough i would smoke the intake there might be a small vacuum leak.
That's like asking, which vehicle would you keep, your work truck, or your commuter car...apples and oranges. If looking at just the scanner and coverage of late-model vehicles (post 2000) and Euro stuff, then the Autel has the advantage over any Snap-On tool. However, for pre-2000 and OBD-I cars I would stick with my Verus. Also the Verus has awesome features like the 4-channel oscilloscope, component test database, and troubleshooter which are technically not part of the "scanner". Obviously if I had to choose one tool I would choose the Verus, but it also costs 10 times as much!!
Some people by trucks and use them for there intended purpose not everyone puts fancy rims and big tire's on them and all kinds of accessories on them just to run around everyday and try and look cool or some douchebag.
That 5.4L 2 valve is a beast, great power train.
That's not a misfire.. That's a radical cam thumpin'! :)
You live in a BEAUTIFUL place I admire your Videos Ivan !
This is the same issue i was having on my truck, same year of truck and same motor and mine was the same issue the EGR valve. thanks for the video was a big help
Behind the throttle body is a vacuum line going to the PCV valve it changes from like a quarter inch line into a half inch hose and failure occurs right there where it attaches behind the throttle body where you cannot see the leak
I was also wondering why you didn't search for a vacuum leak or pull some vacuum lines to see if the idle changed...maybe command the egr through the scanner....I did like the current ramp test...very cool test!!!.....I am a little more old school in that I start searching basics first....I know Matt hates when we talk about visual inspections and poking around without leads or direction....He blows his top when we do that....but I have been searching for leads that way for many years now...I have found so much wrong with drivability problems without ever cracking open my scanner or scope...excellent case study so far!
Good point. If don’t run, no need to fix other things. My van been running like this for 7 years 😮
had the same problem in my 2001 ford e350 super duty 5.4 v8 and replaced the intake manifold and the coils works like a charm now ,before it wouldnt even past 40 mph
182K is nothimg for Ford. Mine f250 2000 has 418k runs like a dream. Thanks for vid!
Dude thank you so much!!! I could not figure out what was round with my truck until I saw this video!!! Awesome thanks so much!!
WIN!
Sounded like a Misfire.I had a 2003 5.4L F-350 XLT and it had over 297,000 Miles.I could pull 14,000 lbs with it using 4.10 Gears and that's not even how much they truely can haul.I also had a 2002 5.4L F-150 Supercrew Lariat and it was a reliable Truck as well,only got to 204,000 Miles because the 4R70W and Driveshaft took a shit and needed to be Rebuilt.
Just curious why, based on the fuel trim/RPM curve you didnt go right for vacuum leak off the bat?
Schrodingers Box Great question, Matt! The severe up-down surging itself steered me away from a traditional vacuum leak, which would cause much higher fuel trims if it was messing up the idle this much. The fact that it ran smooth and trims were good at higher RPMs should have steered me away from ignition altogether too...But since it was a Ford I was determined to find at least one bad ignition coil haha. Ironically, being burned by that red-hot EGR pipe while unplugging an ignition coil was the "Eureka" moment lol
It's great that the battery was dead before the truck came to the shop, erasing any valuable stored DTCs to make the diagnosis more fun :)
I agree with not thinking its a vacuum leak because i would think they would be a lot higher at idle over 20 to make the engine run so rough. It does sound like it may be egr related one quick test to see if you have egr at idle is just to put your hand on valve if its hot its flowing, also using a vacuum pump to valve engine off and listening for pintle slamming down and seating.
Nice- I think I would look at a vacuum leak since it did seem to run better at a higher rpm.
Steve Rob Good guess, but no free T-shirt yet :P Keep thinking...
Ok Ivan I'd look at the Maf and fuel pressure and why not do a injector balance test , am I getting close to winning a T shirt :) Oh yeah the IAC , hey I'm going full Danner on it as you can see LOL
Steve Rob I bet ScannerDanner would make the right call just by hearing that exhaust note lol...he's probably done dozens of these 5.4L Fords!
No way , PVC, brake booster but I think that truck is a hydra boost , and egr are all vacuum leaks- exhaust sound is the clue Ah , this is getting better all the time HA......
I think I would pull in a second channel and maybe look at that coil that didn't have the good turn on oscillation. Could be a secondary problem. Although by the sound of the engine in the video it has more than one misfire.
These trucks don't set check engine lights for mis fires or store codes for some reason.
I have pretty much nailed my brothers 2000 model Subaru.Forester which has a surging idle, it's not the ECU but I found out how to put it into diagnostic mode using the green & black connectors underneath the steering column & I got a code 54 which is an air intake problem.
He took it to a mechanic who didn't want to touch it as his scan tool wouldn't communicate with it,the point is the car is an OBD 1.5 compliant car as it's an Australian delivered model,it was throwing me off because I wasn't getting any pulse with my LED test lamp yet no injector fault codes were recorded for them, maybe the mechanics scan tool was an OBD2 one.
I think that code 54 has been set because the idle air control valve is stuck open, it's also thermally controlled by coolant temperature & the throttle position switch is telling the ECU that the engine idling.
So I ordered another idle air control valve for $48 AUD which should fix the problem,the point is it's a simple problem to fix if you know what's wrong with it !
Did that fix the issue with it? I'm curious now lol
Sounds like an ole 7.3 on a super cold morning
Hi Ivan
I am learning a lot from following your channel. Thank you. Also really enjoyed when you teamed up with Eric O.
I noticed that as you raised the RPM the fuel trims numbers on both banks improved and when you let off the gas they increased again. From what I have learned from Matt's channel would suggest to me that the fuel trim behaviour shown on your Autel are symptomatic of a Vacuum Leak (maybe bad intake manifold gaskets on BOTH banks is what comes to my mind). I wouldn't suspect a dirty MAF or weak fuel pump because the fuel trim numbers would have increased as RPM increased.
toyo toe Thanks, Toyo! You are definitely thinking in the right direction. Fuel Trims are definitely a big clue...stay tuned for Part 2!
motoYam82 Just noticed Absolute Throttle Postion at 19.6% during idle. This seems high and suggests the plate in the throttle body is probably open and unable to close due to carbon build up. This would result in unmetered air entering engine and causing lean condition on both banks. I'm sure you must be 1/2 can of carb cleaner lighter by now.
toyo toe So why do you think the air flowing by the throttle flap would be "unmetered"? I didn't see any tears in the air pipe between the MAF and the TB, so I think the MAF is accounting for all the incoming air through the TB...
motoYam82 Thanks for correcting my mistake. Does a V engine have 1 pcv valve or 2 ( one for each cylinder head)? If 1 pcv for both heads, then I suppose if valve faulty, would allow unmetered air into intake. Would check to see if it is difficult to physically pull the dipstick out of its tube or connect a vacuum gauge into dipstick tube to see how much vacuum is being pulled.
toyo toe That's not a mistake, but a "thought experiment" :) Now a crankcase vent system usually consists of a inlet vent taking in fresh air upstream of the TB (no vacuum), and one PCV valve that lets vapors into the intake manifold (vacuum). So even if that was a path for air around the TB, the MAF would still see it!
I guess the only way you could create measurable vacuum in the crankcase would be to plug that fresh air vent...another interesting thought experiment.
I had a 07 mustang with hot rod cams that sounded just like that lol. Maybe its in hot rod mode
+nicholas elias I think the next step I would go is do a simple power distribution test to see If I can find a non contributing cylinder because it sounded like a dead miss. If it ends up positive for a cylinder, then I would use a COP probe to see if the secondary ignition is at fault. If it turns out inconclusive and all are contributing and no issues with coils then move on to maybe a vacuum leak, a dirty MAP or a stuck EGR
Are you absolutely sure that it doesn't just have a massive cam
LOL it might be a 10-second sleeper truck xD
The next farm truck on 1320 videos lmao
How many scanners do you have? Im totally jealous.
i get the feeling that truck is not long for this world given the amount of rust all over it had to ask was it even a viable option cost wise, given the cost of all the repairs needed?
+Gylan Underhill Oh that's just body rust; frame is still OK :) This thing putts around the farm every day hauling hay and manure...a lot of life left in it still!
EGR system had the problem with my 00 expedition.
Trim numbers got better with a few rpms ,Steve has it covered i think , If not then trade it in on one that runs . lol But on a serious note, i am liking the 708 . may have to get one for the times my ultra is not working
wtbm123 Just got a call from my friend's shop. He's trying to bleed a '97 Caddy Seville ABS system and their Snap-On Solus Ultra doesn't have that auto-bleed function. Neither does my Verus. But the Autel 708 does! Go figure...
motoYam82 i think you can program some keys too with the 708.
Thanks for the video....learn so much.
Muy buen video, mi f-250 5.4 lt 2005 tiene los codigos PO174, PO171, PO430 Y PO353, me pueden apoyar por donde empezar?
ive got a v10 f350 and found the wiring 'grommet' out of the air filter housing out and mine was doing the same thing....popped it back in with a little silicone to stick it and it was schmoooth as it gets.....
My farm ‘o2 f250 did the same.
Reason the CEL isn't on is because if it had a bad coil the light would be on, a boot problem wouldn't show up however. I work on these trucks regularly and I like them, which I like my 5.0 Explorer from 99 so I'm probably out to get it
+BronzeChicken Which I'm early into the video so
The computer can only monitor the primary side of the coil, hence the "primary circuit fault"
there can absolutely be a problem with the secondary side of the coil and would not set a DTC. If the secondary shorts to the primary, no spark
Do you only work on ford's triton V8 or dot the v10s have similar issues and fixes ?
Question so my Ford F-250 Super Duty was running fine I pulled into a parking lot put it in park the engine rev up high then it started to miss can you help me with the answer
Did that truck have grass growing out of the bed
doesn't the autelsanner have a scope
Nice, it has some grass growing in the bed.
+Blaine Bugaski yep all-organic lol
What fuse buddy kit do you have?
That's the sound of an SD70Ace locomotive there.
On a hunch I would check for a stuck open EGR valve.
+wysetech2000 You must be a Ford guy :)
+motoYam82 No Ivan, not really a Ford guy, I drive a Caravan...(worse). I have been a tech for bout 47 years and lived through the EGR valve very common failure years, 70s and 80s. We used to stock the most common ones. I was a little surprised you went to the EGR when I started watching part 2 after my comment. I give you a lot of credit since you're smarter than I thought you were. {:-) I used to lightly touch the EGR tube or check to see if the tube or valve would melt a tire crayon. We didn't have infrared thermometers back then.I'll keep viewing your vids, I might learn something.
+wysetech2000 Wow 47 years...you must have some amazing repair stories to share! Do you prefer working on vintage pre-fuel-injected vehicles or the newer computerized cars?
I love tinkering with carbureted motorcycles and cars too...maybe that would make for an interesting video series? Setting ignition points and tweaking the idle mixture is becoming a lost art :)
Yeah, trying to retire but they keep calling me into work. I prefer older stuff but newer is more of a challenge. Sometimes I think I could write a book on what I've seen over the years.
A series on older stuff would be cool. If you need help just ask.
How much is one of them machines if I wanted to buy one?
What kills me is that truck was probably a 50,000 dollar truck Brand New and it is tore all to pieces!!!!!
Partner it's just a work truck so you know it is what it is but I think I do like a lot of other people do motherboards and other vehicles find me a used LS and put it in there swap it out it'll probably pass inspection again then
Ford test for misfire is cylinder contribution test
Maxidas has no power balance test? Maxisys has the power balance test.
My 99 F250 5.4 is doing the exact same thing.
i fixed it today and it was this exact issue
good video amigo exselente
From here moving to false air suction or bad IAC valve...my personal opinion.
do you have the tick from the camshaft ?
Honestly sounds like a big ol cam
That thing needs to be in the junkyard. Rust bucket!
Andyco79 it’s a farm truck, might as well get the last bit of use out of it.
Nice lope to that power stroke. Lol
BustersTech not a powerstroke. But it is a nice lope.
I know. I take it you didn't catch the sarcasm
BustersTech yeah I was just screwing around on RUclips at late hours sorry bout that
Do a timing set bub.
Idk replaced the coils. All of them! Its a cop Ford. Iys always a great idea to just change the coils
i have a farm truck to. looks nothing like this thing. how does one do this to a truck?
@@robertwatson818 we
Chugging damn that things guzzling gas lol
I would say either vacuum leak or intake manifold leak.
3:30 play in 2x speed it sound like a 7.3 LOL.
Its the egr or iac
Honestly, the truck sounded way cooler with the misfire. Sounds like my dad's cammed camaro!
Hahaha... it sounds cammed!
Mow cordless impact wrenches
rubber hose going to valve on valve cover
what does ford vct solenoid ECM signal looks like?
Well the solenoid doesn't have a signal, it has ground control from the ecm. Duty cycle/ PWM
Why cant they go with a 2002 7.3l powerstroke because those trucks are the best known for heavy duty work
The Excursion,F-250,F-350,F-450,& F-550 came with the 5.4L & 6.8L 2 Valve as a Gas Truck and the 7.3L Powerstroke from 1997-2003.During 2003,they came out with the 6.0L Powerstroke but you could still get one with a 5.4L or 6.8L and they changed them to the 3 Valve up to 2008,and then they came out with the 4 Valve and 5 Valve,until the Tritons were discontinued in 2014.The 5.4L as the 2 Valve/16 Valve is 260 HP/303 lbs of Torque and then the 6.8L as the 2 Valve/20 Valve is 300 HP/325 lbs of Torque.With 3.73,4.10,or 4.56 Gears,those Tritons can handle serious Weight.In the F-350,both the V8 & V10 can do up to 20,000 lbs,but don't expect it to go fast.I had a 2003 5.4L F-350 XLT that had more than 297,000 Miles on it and I use to pull 14,000 lbs with it on 4.10 Gears.I just got a 2002 6.8L F-450 with over 385,000 Miles and it has 4.56 Gears on it.The major flaw with the Tritons is how they get 8-9 MPG and that's just in the city.By all means,I love the Powerstroke,but the Gas Trucks are just as good,you just have it cheaper to maintain,more RPM,and it's easier to Start in the Cold than a Diesel which requires a Block Heater.The 7.3L is 250 HP/525 lbs of Torque,more Torque always matters,and a Powerstroke has more Fuel Efficiency than a Triton which is a big plus.
The reason why it’s shaking is the injectors
Horóscopos del día 28 de noviembre
Not all of have all of this test equipment, although I appreciate yr knowledge of this, this video was not helpful at all.
Sure it is!
you asked at the end "where would you go from here?" i would siphon out some gas and burn the truck.... lol JK i would do a fuel pressure test as there is no CEL judging from that life of the truck that to much dust ... mud AND rust would clog things up it might be as simple as a clogged intake filter or fuel and and i would check the electronic throttle body and clean it. if everything is fine and the truck is still rough i would smoke the intake there might be a small vacuum leak.
K Ironically it would be difficult to siphon gas from this heap, since the collapsed bed is pinching the fuel fill lines hahaha
LOL that explains ALOT .... hahahahaha what a truck.
Yansee girl drives Ford F-350 super duty
worst POS plugs blow out 10mpg empty.
you like that autel ?
+Plague Plague Yes it's a fantastic tool!
+motoYam82 out of all your scan tools if you could only pick one, which one would it be?
That's like asking, which vehicle would you keep, your work truck, or your commuter car...apples and oranges.
If looking at just the scanner and coverage of late-model vehicles (post 2000) and Euro stuff, then the Autel has the advantage over any Snap-On tool.
However, for pre-2000 and OBD-I cars I would stick with my Verus.
Also the Verus has awesome features like the 4-channel oscilloscope, component test database, and troubleshooter which are technically not part of the "scanner".
Obviously if I had to choose one tool I would choose the Verus, but it also costs 10 times as much!!
I have 10 cars and i know which one i would want to keep :P lol Thanks for your response.
Sounds like a bad egr
Arabic subtitle? I shut you off automatically!
I like Fords but, those model 250's are junk. The metal in those bodies rust so bad.. Bummer because they are tough when there running right..
It’s trash :/
What a long dragged out video, I could have skipped the whole thing.
Some people by trucks and use them for there intended purpose not everyone puts fancy rims and big tire's on them and all kinds of accessories on them just to run around everyday and try and look cool or some douchebag.
drain the oil and water ...put your toolbox on the throttle it will fix itself ...ford its at its best
I can't believe this guy calls himself a mechanic. Also, that's an awful scan tool and you apparently don't even know how to operate it
OSDCrusher can you show us any of your works SMART ASS LMAO...
Ford test for misfire is cylinder contribution test