Great video. Good paced and additional comments in the video were very helpful. My inner most bearing is bad. I was a little intimidated with this project because all of the parts to be removed. Will change all the other bearings while I am there. Video saved for future reference!!
Appreciate the feed back. Good luck with your projects as well. Your repair and your video. If you have any other questions/repairs I have a handful of other videos on my channel. Thanks again.
Eric, awesome vid! Purchased the seal puller on Amazon n worked excellent. Replaced both strut seal n the hub seal n o-ring on cap. Strut seal popped right out. Hub seal had to use heat gun to very hot to get it out. Again, thx for the grt vid!
Thats fantastic. Glad it was helpful. Appreciate the feedback. Im glad you mentioned the O-ring on the cap. I don't think I ever have in any of the videos. Ive never had a bad one but Im sure some may have and it should be inspected and of course replaced if damaged. Thanks again.
I bought a used strut in very good shape. I know the leak is coming from the seal in the strut. The only thing I can think of is the seal used is not from Polaris. Also I put in a new spindle. It's very frustrating. I torqued it to specs and now it leaks more. The speedy sleeve definitely helped with the hub seal much tighter fit. Thanks for your help. Frank
Hard to say about the non OEM seal. Ive generally had decent luck with aftermarket seals but QC on them may not be as good so you may have to really inspect it yourself and make sure the seal is worthy of your efforts. Sometimes ..... a seal will work a bit better as it works a bit and flexes and stretches and softens up. But honestly I would say that shouldn't be an expectation of a new one. A new one should just work right out of the gate. When I say work itself out flex and soften I would apply that to an older one thats been sitting. Like in storage that may be dribbling a bit then you ride and it seems to find itself again.
Thank you for this video 🙏. I’m about to take on a project with my sportsman 500 HO. Mine has been pulling to the right. Will free itself up on occasion or if I pop a wheelie. Most of the time it’s pulling and forcing me to turn right, making donuts
Not sure if it's exactly the same as your scenario. But for what it's worth. That was an original problem that got me investigating the broken wires. I'd go up a steep loose gravely dirt slope and it would pull to one side. One front wheel. The one with the broken wires obviously wasn't engaging.There were other red flags. But that was one of the symptoms. Glad you found it useful. Not sure if you saw but there are a few other videos in the playlist. As well as a bunch of unrelated stuff. Thanks for the feedback.
Eric in Alaska I’ll be tearing into it tomorrow. Right now I’m looking at my carburetor and the pictures in the Haynes manual, wishing that they had multiple pictures of each carburetor with arrows and labels to what everything’s and where it goes. I have a hose at the bottom of my cab, that was broken off and leaking. I trimmed it and put it back on. Where does the other end go, If anywhere?
Hey Jason. I was looking at my manual. Its actually a Polaris manual. From Polaris. Has great Carb pics in it. I do know that You can definitely google the PDF's and you should be able to find that. I just didn't know your year etc or I would have included a link. But I did find lots of search results. Cant say I know much about the hose your referencing but I bet the online manual will help.
Eric in Alaska thanks again sir. I’ll get online and start searching. I believe mine is a 2002 or 2003 Sportsman 500HO. All green. I’m about to go out and search for a serial number and confirm the year. You have been very helpful. Thank you 🙏
Eric in Alaska so I’m quite certain it is a 2002. I’ve been doing some much neglected maintenance on it. I attempted to pull the right hub off. It’s seized more than likely. I jacked the front up and the left spins freely but the right will rotate the driveshaft when I attempt to rotate the tire. I’ve pulled the tire, pulled the hub cap, dry inside. I’ve hosed it down with Blaster and hopefully that will loosen it up enough to wiggle. I’ll add more Blaster and/or some WD40 white lithium grease to it over next couple of days or until it’s freed up. What fluid are you adding back in there to finish the job? Once again, thanks for the videos. I just watched this one again and have it saved for a great quick reference. 👍👍
Excellent video! I appreciate you taking your time to make it for us shade tree mechanics who like to work on our own equipment! I really like the way you take your time and explain everything. I subbed! I have a question, I just finished replacing all the fluids in my 2000 Sportsman 500 and when I finally got to the front hubs, I found the one on the right side was bone dry! I noticed the hub cap had some cracks in it so I ordered a new one and a new o-ring. While waiting for my new parts to deliver, I was wondering if I should go ahead and replace the bearings since I will already be in there. My question is about the hub seal. Can I just replace that rear seal to keep the hub fluid in place, or do I need to replace the strut seal like you are doing in this video? Any guidance will be appreciated!
Sorry for the delay. Summer. Traveling.How long do you suspect it was dry? Do the bearings appear unusually worn or damaged? Or any of the surfaces? Kinda of a judgment call if they seem fine. After you do this stuff you'll have it down. And if when you get it all back together and something just isn't right, then have at it. Personally I would only replace the seal or a seal in need of replacement. If one is damaged. Replace it. But if I understand your question. I wouldn't replace any just out of preventative maintenance. I believe in preventative maintenance. But in this case. If it aint broke don't fix it.
Thank you for the video! currently in the process putting new hub/wheel bearings in my 04 sportsman 400, had none of the bearings when i got it, trying to figure out where the huge seal goes that came with my hub clutch/bearing kit, and still waiting on strut bearings yet though
The bigger seal if Im understanding you correctly, is in the hub casting. If you remove the brake disc. It's under that. Make note of the direction or orientation of the one you remove. Put the new one in position and then evenly press the new one in by putting the disc back on. Tightening the bolts alternating evenly. Simple as that. Good luck with your project.
@@ericinalaska7648 Much appreciated! i was wondering how it went on with the disc in the way, and the hub was off when i got it, the hilliard clutch and every single bearing was ruined, i'll have it moving once the parts arrive
Put grease on the hub seal and magnet where it rubs, it needs it. The hub seal wears a groove into the magnet sleeve and the fluid leaks out. That seal on mine has a double lip, I reused mine and cleaned it out and regreased that seal. One side was out of fluid but had been empty a while and I saw no leak but I suspect the strut seal could be leaking. But I did not replace any parts, still looking for oil leaks but not seeing any yet.
Yes. I completely agree. As long as your seal isn't damaged or excessively worn from being run dry and you don't have any grooves worn into the sleeve. Its certainly worth the effort. Definitely worth mentioning. I usually just rub the same oil/fluid on it and seems to work well. I do have another video that covers sleeve repair if you do have or end up with grooves. Using a speedi sleeve. And I talk about some of this. Thanks for the note. Im sure people will appreciate it. Knowledge is power.
thanks for the vid I have a 2002 sportsman 500 also and have a similar leak but I was assuming it was the seal in the hub and not the strut seal.I think I will buy a kit and do them all good job.I have also gotten pretty good at tearing this thing down cheers
@@stevegiroux Good deal. You've probably noticed I have a few other videos. I haven't worked on a 325. But I would imagine there are many similarities.
How are you my friend, it’s Tom again from NJ . Just watched your video on replacing the hub seal. Excellent by the way. My question is my break disk and inner wheel is full of grease. I opened the hub oil and it smells burnt. Was on a quad forum and they said it was the hub seal. Do you think that’s so . If so Where did you get the seal puller from ? Thanks for your advice. Tom
Hey Tom. Hard to say the cause without seeing it first hand. But burnt to me would indicate heat of course and if you have the proper level of fluid in the hub I would probably try to investigate the source of that a bit . Id be curious about the bearings. Is a thought. Or if your seal is bad and gunk is getting in or being introduced contaminating your fluid that's possible. I believe I have a link for a seal puller in one of the video descriptions but here is a link for one similar that's reasonably priced. And should also get you where you need to be for some other options if you want to spend a little more for something different or similar. Hope that helps. amzn.to/3dQOfLP
Eric, I’m sorry to keep bothering you . My question is would bother to buy the seal kit off of Amazon if you have any other ideas about where I should get the kit from please let me know I don’t trust the knock off stuff all the time. I do trust you and your input and knowledge thanks Tom
@@thomasimmesberger2644 Yah I think its as good as you'll find and likely cheaper that OME. Ill see about digging up a link for you.Give me until tomorrow.
I know there are times I have had to persuade them off by using a hard rubber mallet. Or pry between the A arm and the ball joint. One recommended way that I haven't tried. I guess it didn't come to it and my instincts were to do the above. Is to loosen the ball joint nut so its on only a few threads and then hit the nut from below, making sure the ball joint stud is not sticking out, until they separate. Be sure to use a softer mallet or maybe put a wood shim or something to protect the nut a bit. The goal being to not damage it by hitting it with a claw or ball pean hammer. And it doesn't hurt to have a replacement or sacrificial nut to use. Not the method I prefer but seems to work pretty well. If the parts seem to be fused from corrosion. Douse it good with some penetrating oil or liquid wrench and let is soak a bit. They are engineered to be a snug fit but it'll come apart.
No matther what I do, the hub seal (the bigger one) keeps leeking real bad (like I littetaly loose all the oil in a single ride). On first installment I'm gently taping it in the hub with a flat piece of wood and a hammer so it wont take any damage. Then I put grease on the rubbers. When I put the hub back on the magnet I make sure that the rubber isn't folding while installing it. I bought the model with a little spring that goes around so I make sure that it's secured in place. I figured out (by my own logics) that this spring must go on the outside of the hub and not inside where the oil is trapped ? Maybe that is what i'm doing wrong ? The whole thing is very thight on installation yet it keeps emptying from all the oil after a few hours riding. I've done this 3 times now, each time using a brand new seal. Growing tired of wasting my time and money on this! HELP !
Hey there. Yah sounds frustrating. 3 things that pop into my mind while reading. Well 4. The fourth was are you putting grease/oil on the rubber contact area. But you described doing so. So 3 more. Assuming there is no damage to any of the contact surfaces. Is it making good contact all the way around? Is it an after market seal? Not necessarily bad but some may not be as good a fit as others. 2. You mentioned the spring and orientation. Its a common thing for people to ask and Id be lying if I haven't been in the same position in the distant past. Successfully removing one. Then celebrating that, cleaning up the parts in preparation to install the new one and saying to my self. Wait, now which way does this thing go? So always take a pic with your phone if you don't think you can trust your memory before removal. The other solution is to compare it to the other side and match that. 3. Assuming all is correct with the previously mentioned potential issues. Do you have a bent or wobbly hub shaft or rim or bearings? Have you ever had a roll over or something that may have bent the hub or drive shaft or rim even a bit? The reason I ask is, if everything goes together well and you spin your wheel and all seems good. And you set it down on the ground and go. There may be just enough wobble to allow poor seal contact at one point or another and allow a leak. So the things I can point at off the top of my head just for review, and I realize you've explored some of these already. Are. Poor fitting seal. Seal not oriented properly. No grease/oil on contact surfaces. Or potential wobble from bent hub or drive shaft and or rim or bad bearings. Also another though. Proper torque on the hub nut. And I realize its a pain but digging in as much as necessary on the opposite side to confirm the seal orientation will still probably be less work and surely less expensive than redoing the bad side a 4th time. I feel your pain though. Ive replaced a seal or two that then leaked and have heard the story many times. But realistically it can only be a few things that would contribute to it. Let me know how it goes.
@@ericinalaska7648 According to another youtuber the spring goes inside. At first I did exactly that but the spring popped off while I was assembling the hub back on the magnet. It destroyed the rubbers while I was riding (that's why I assumed it had to go the other way around but I was wrong). On the second installation I did put the spring side backwards (outside) and on the 3rd too 🤦🤦🤦 Question : Is there a product that I can put between the seal and the hub so I would rest assured that they are making perfect contact without letting any oil out ? That other guy on youtube is using a product that's called 'assembly goo" puts it on the seal, inside the hub and also uses it to lube the rubbers.
@@mr.octopus6972 Im not aware of anything that will work any better than the usual hub oil or grease or "Assembly goo". If the seal is installed properly and making proper contact and lubed. It shouldn't leak. From your description earlier it sounds like your taking care to tap it in straight with some wood. And as long as its oriented properly, seated all the way in as intended, making contact as required. Meaning bottomed out, and the seal/hub surfaces all lubed and making consistent even contact. And nothing is damaged, including the seal upon install. It SHOULD be good. If it was mine. I'd be frustrated as well. But that's really all it should take to get it right. The seal needs to be installed evenly. If its forced in at an angle and evened out as you go and it becomes out of round or bent in any way. That can create a leak potential.
Awesome video. Should help me a ton. I have a 99 sportsman 500 with the same leak of hub fluid onto the inner tire. Can’t wait to see the next video on the seal install. Can you make sure to show the seal install process? It would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the good work.
Yeah I’d like to know too. I have seen where some people say it goes in the hub one way and some the other. The new ones I got with my new bearings are not like the old ones, so I’m not sure which way they go back in. I think the bigger lip should go towards the inside of the hub but not sure. Not talking about the strut seal, but the wheel hub.
UPDATE: I checked the manual. It says to install the seal. (Hub Seal) with the spring side toward the hub casting. Press in until flush with with brake disc mating surface. I just put it in place and put the brake disc on and then put the four bolts in and alternately tighten each forcing the seal in place gradually and evenly. Again. Spring side going in first toward casting. Hope Ive cleared that up.
Hey John. If your talking about the seal on the hub behind the brake disc. I talk about that a little in another video. But its not the main topic. Not sure I address that. But I will also see if I can get some sort of pic for you from the manual to clear that up for you and anyone else interested. Might take me till next week sometime but Ill get it for yah. Check out my channel if you haven't already. I'll have more stuff as time goes by and if you subscribe of course it'll notify you of new stuff.
My first thought is some debris or maybe a sticking brake pad or maybe a bent part? Thats where Id start visually. And then dig deeper if necessary. Without seeing it and experiencing it first hand its kind of hard. I can only guess. But based on the info Id get down and look it all over real good and compare it to the other side to clarify if something doesn't look right.
Why is it that when I try to remove the castle nut the whole axel turns, preventing me from replacing the Hilliard clutch. My right side 4wd keeps crapping out & the demand drive oil is full of metal shavings, 2nd year in a row. Anyway thanks for the detailed video!
Hmm. Yah that shouldn't be. My instinct is it may be getting over tighten or torqued? If you take the cotter pin out, the castle nut with a little start like loosening the jar lid, should just about spin off using just your fingers. Something has to be bugared up, not as manufactured any more. If you have shavings things are likely jammed up, possibly causing the issue. I cant imagine much more harm can come of doing whatever it takes to getting it loose and apart. Tire on the ground with a good chuck that will grab your tire and keep it from spinning and a good breaker bar and pipe if needed is how Id come at it in such a case. To get it started anyway. Then you can lift it up again and get the tire out of your way. Once you get the nut off. Then start directing the parts from there as you can get them off. Look at the hub real good as well for damage. If it seems ok. And new bearings are in order. Make sure they fit satisfactorily as you put things back together. Let me know how it goes.
@@ericinalaska7648 thank you so much for that! I’m a little hesitant to go with an aftermarket Hilliard again but an OEM is crazy expensive. Last time I torqued it to spec so I wonder if something else could cause the black oil? Definitely can’t buy a 300 Hilliard every snow storm lol. Regardless, I’ll let you know , thanks again I really appreciate you taking the time out to help!
@@TheScott247 The book refers to it as a spindle nut and and hub nut. And say's to torque to 160-170 inch ponds. While continuously rotating hub. Note inch pounds not foot pounds. Back off half a turn. Then rotate the axle several times by raising the rear of the machine and rotating rear wheel with machine in gear. Then re-torque nut to 108-144 inch pounds. Insert cotter pin. if hole for pin does not align slightly tighten to align. Do not exceed 144 inch ponds. If your torque wrench only shows foot pounds. There are 12 inch pounds to a foot pound. so 108- to 144 inch pounds is 9 - 12 foot pounds.
I never have. And I can't say Ive ever come across anything that says to do so. The Bearings should be bathing in the oil/fluid. Workin its way around and through all surfaces and parts within the hub as the wheel spins. If Im understanding your question correctly.
I meant to also mention in case you didn't see it. I also have this video specifically about refilling your hub.ruclips.net/video/OxW3KV1WpFM/видео.html
Front end? Have you or anyone ever rolled it or crashed or anything? My first thought would be a bent drive shaft/hub if so. Or rim maybe? Side note. I usually keep my tires pretty soft. Meaning lower pressure. So much less bouncing off rocks etc. They tend to grab better also.
When I put the hub back on it was significantly tighter around the seal. I tightened the castle nut tight then loosened it and handed tightened it. It spins freely but it’s pretty snug! Is this normal? Like I said after seating everything I just hand tightened the castle nut
Im not sure what year mark model you have. But for this one in the video. And assuming the bearings are properly installed. After its all together. It gets torqued, or really over torqued and then backed off. The manual says the following. Torque spindle to 160-170 inch pounds while rotating hub continuously. Back off nut 1/2 turn. Then this step that made me scratch my head a bit but here it is. Rotate axle several revolutions by raising the rear of machine and rotating the rear wheels with the machine in gear. Then retorque hub nut to 108 - 144 inch lbs.install cotter pin. If pin hole does not line up tighten slightly to line up but do not exceed 144 inch lbs. It's my understanding that the overtorquing and rotating will get everything seated properly then when you back off your creating the proper play. Let me know how it goes. Hope that helps.
I did that. The new seals are a lot tighter when I spin the hub by hand. Just making sure it was suppose to be tight and snug when I spin it by hand. The other side, I did not replace is a lot looser. Also it’s 20 years old lol
@@timothywells457 As long as all surfaces are clean and undamaged and you should put a little grease or oil on the seal and hub contact surfaces. Should be good. Are they after market seals or Polaris? Its pos if aftermarket they may be a slightly snugger fit and or slightly different material and flexibility but cant say for sure. Just thoughts.
Manual indicates for initial bearing adjustment to torque to 160-170 INCH lbs. Notice not foot lbs. While rotating hub continuously. Then back off nut 1/2 turn. Then retorque to 108 - 144 inch lbs. and adjust as needed to align hole for cotter pin but do not exceed 144 inch lbs. Its been a few years but I think I babble about that in the video. If not this one its additional info in another.
Hi Eric I tried everything new strut seal new hub seal new bearing. I even used a speedie sleeve helped a little but still leaking . Any other ideas Your videos have been very helpfull. Thanks Frank
Is it pos. your shaft is bent? Was the wear on the surface the seal rides on even all the way around? Or deep on one side and not so much on the other? That would indicate some bend. Did you wipe the seal with some oil/Fluid on the contact surface? And I guess the other thing Id look at while troubleshooting is how the seal is seated and of course that it didn't endure any damage when putting it in? Im always careful to slide the hub on gently and evenly making contact first then ease it on with some twist. Making sure as it rides on and over the edge of the new speedo sleeve it dosent get snagged or sheared or something. And of course making sure your all torqued down to the proper specs on your castle nut. Maybe after you've ridden a bit now just revisit that. Ive heard people mention that ramming the fluid in when filling your hub could blow out a seal but I think you'd have to have the intro hole sealed up with what ever your putting fluid in with and create quite a bit of pressure. I don't see that being a likely scenario. Those are pretty much the obstacles I can offer. Let me what happens.
do u think u can provide a link to all the bearing and every thing that goes inside i did a oopsie and and broke the screw that holds the cover for the hub on and i thought that it would be fine but nope and how many ft pounds does the castle nut to be at..sorry for the spelling
What year make and model are you needing it for. I don't recall off hand the foot-pounds but I do believe I discuss it in the video. But again. Year make and model will matter. I would think getting the broke pc from the hub cap should be pretty doable with some effort. Its not too long and not a real binding thread. For this particular model. The manual indicates for initial bearing adjustment to torque to 160-170 INCH lbs. Notice not foot lbs. While rotating hub continuously. Then back off nut 1/2 turn. Then retorque to 108 - 144 inch lbs. and adjust as needed to align hole for cotter pin but do not exceed 144 inch lbs. Its been a few years but I think I babble about that in the video. If not this one its additional info in another.
@@levicarrol9401 SO here is a link for "A" replacement kit. I have not personally used this kit. But I have used replacement shafts from these guys and they were great. You have to look this kit over and make sure it has everything you're looking for or not. And if its the same as well as comparable or compatible with yours. If nothing else this link will get you where you need to be to search further. Hope it helps. amzn.to/3RrJmqF
Would bad seals cause bad bearings which would cause the atv to pull hard to the right? I bought the atv knowing it had a bad seal haven't gotten around to replacing it and now it pulls hard to the right The side with the bad seal It does it at random times
I was on a path to respond until the end when you said It happens at random times. But to answer your initial question before that. Yes. Bad seals equal leaking fluid. If enough leaks leaving your bearings dry. Then yes they endure increased friction and ware as well as all other parts relying on the lubrication. If they're overheating or even seized up from it. Your machine would then pull to the affected side. I also have another video showing seal replacement and talk about some things in that one as well. Heres the link to that one. This video covers the strut seal and if I recall correctly I talk a bit about the hub seal as well. ruclips.net/video/X_L7h-glws0/видео.html
At the moment Id have to review that and I don't have access to the book or the wheeler. Not to promo a video shamelessly but I think you should be able to tell on the rear seal video (at least visually) or maybe the refilling your hub and last thoughts video. I know I cover a lot on reassembly on that one in addition to the refilling of the hub. And Its been a bit but I would imagine I talk about it in one of those. If you can't find it I apologize I just don't want to misinform you not having the proper reference at the moment. Ill try to get it for you in a bit though if you haven't found it. Also hard to say about the non OEM seal. Ive generally had decent luck with aftermarket seals but QC on them may not be as good so you may have to really inspect it yourself and make sure the seal is worthy of your efforts. Sometimes ..... a seal will work a bit better as it works a bit and flexes and stretches and softens up a bit. But honestly I would say that shouldn't be an expectation of a new one. A new one should just work right out of the gate. When I say work itself out flex and soften I would apply that to an older one thats been sitting. Like in storage that may be dribbling a bit then you ride and it seems to find itself again. Show less
@@ericinalaska7648 thanks I did see your strut hub installation. I did the same way . Sorry to be a pain . Again thanks for the RUclips video its the best one I've seen on front hub assembly.
Messing up the magnet meaning damaging it? Or messing up the proper whats known as pole gap? As far as damaging it. Yes it can be a very delicate process. And seems a good chance of a can of worms. But as far as messing it up meaning proper adjustment after assembly. Again delicate. The gap between the inner and outer pole measured in 3 places should not exceed .001 of an inch (.025mm). And the variation between those 3 points should not exceed half that. .0005 of an inch (.013mm). I have not personally performed that particular task. I do know how ever that if its out it'll effect the function. The manual states this will cause erratic engagement. When I was exploring replacing mine due to the wires being sheared off. I was considering just taking my strut in to have it replaced. I had a conversation with a guy at the local service department and he seemed leery of touching it. I think mainly out of compassion for the labor that would be involved and the expense. So I explored maybe finding a used strut assembly in good condition. Cheaper than labor and other potential parts. Then I was able to sort out the wires and all was right with the world. (Other video.)There may be someone out there with better intel or tips. The service manual dosent cover the specific task of bearing race replacement. Or coil replacement. Just proper adjustment. Are your races excessively worn or damaged? Not a perfect solution of course but could you get away with just replacing the bearings? Not ideal I realize but maybe a way out if the races are in decent shape.And at least get you back out there. Im guessing there probably not if your already exploring it to this level. If Ive misunderstood your question or if you have any others. Let me know. I hope some of this was at least helpful though.
@@goatsmakesoapco.9113 Thank you. Appreciate it. Im currently editing one that covers changing the fluid in the front gear case and the transmission. If you're interested. Check for that in the next few days.
@@codyharris9472 Bent while installed or after taking it out? They are snug for sure to get in. But that's by design. Also don't forget to get a little oil, or some use grease on the contacting surfaces to reduce friction, ware, and increase sealing effect of new one.
Im actually away at the moment traveling. Not to be a wise guy though. If in doubt look at the other wheel. If you don't recall how the one you took out was oriented. If that dosent work out for you. Let me know and Ill have a more definitive answer when I get back. And Im assuming your talking about the hub seal and not the strut seal. Correct?
So if Im understanding you correctly. You have it all disassembled and you set the hub on the ground, hubcap end down. And your putting the hilliard into the hub in this position without the shaft involved. To check clearance. If thats what your saying. I would be more concerned about the clearance when assembled on the shaft. If there were a clearance problem and appears to be wear indicated on the inside of the hub or hiliiard from rubbing. Then I would explore that of course. But I would suspect if that were the case you would have other indicators or problems to repair as well. Meaning something else is out of whack to affect that. What got you to that point/question? Bent shaft? Bearings? Did you do any work on the hilliard clutch? If I didn't understanding your question. Id need a little more info. Let me know. Happy to help as best I can.
@@ericinalaska7648 My 4wd has not been working, since i bought the thing about a year ago. Ive got magnet to the coils, new armatures, new hilliards, everything torqued by the book, and filled to 3'oclock with demand drive. I get zero engagement out of either wheel. The inside of the passenger side (sorry im a truck guy) hub has a slight groove to it, i have not checked other side yet. But i literally have, prolly, 1/8-1/4 in of play between the hilliard and hub, when disassembled like you described. I have ran the machine in 4wd with the hub off, and can watch the hilliard expand. Im also getting shavings in the hub oil with no obvious source.
Hmmm. Its sounds like your going through the motions and trying to do it all right. Is the groove in the hub at the armature plate end of the clutch or the further away end. Your armature plate Im assuming is properly positioned and not bent. Im just thinking about the shavings. And when you ran it with the hub off the clutch expands. And the 1/8 to a 1/4 clearance you have is Im assuming unexpanded set in the hub. That seems realistic. If you visualize how much its expanding with the hub off. I cant find any spec on that. My instinct is Id want to see if when the hubs on is it still expanding. (X-ray vision) And your putting the hub on carefully as to not reposition any of that as you put the hub back on. Its easy to reposition it (The armature plate) if you reverse course at all when putting it on. Things will go together but if those dog ears or tabs as they call them on the armature plate aren't aligned. Issues. Poss. Shavings. lack of engagement. Im not sure thats the issue but something to check. See if you can wipe everything down and figure out where the shavings are coming from. Beyond that without having been part of the process Im about at my limit of suggestions. Unless you have more clues of course.
@@ericinalaska7648 We expanded the hubs by hand and measured from roller to roller, they do not expand enough (we are 98% sure) to hit the inside of hub. Youve been much help though bud, i apperciate it! Im subscribing
Did you replace the retainer spring on the hilliard? I read in the manual that old springs and newer designs may have different tension. And also if there compromised when taking them off or putting them on. Stretched or deformed. But if you put new ones on that have more tension than the older version. That would obviously cause the expansion to struggle.
Anyone know why you only fill hub fluid to 3 o'clock? I replaced bearings and strut seal and still have some leakage but wonder if it is because I overfilled the fluid. I topped it off to the 12 o clock position. Is it possible that it is heating up with no room for expansion and squeezing out of the seal?
There could be a few things causing the leaking. Bad Seals. Improperly torqued castle nut. Seals should be pliable and I usually rub some fluid on the contact surfaces. Some use a compatible grease. To create better seal and some lubrication between the rubber and metal surfaces. And Possibly overfilling? I cant really find anything specifically addressing that but I don't think your thought about overfilling and heat and expansion is out of the question. But I really don't have the specifics of the science behind that. I would imagingine its specified for a reason though. Im guessing but perhaps it allows more room for circulation and cooling etc. When its full full to the tippy top in the 12:00 o'clock position. It just becomes a minimally churning warm fluid mass with less movement and less ability to cool. Im just pulling this stuff out with both hands but. A thought. The Manual states: Remove fill check plug and rotate to either 4:00 o'clock or 8:00 o'clock position. Fill with Polaris Premium demand Drive Hub Fluid or Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid until fluid trickles out. NOTE: Do not force the oil into the hub under pressure. This can cause seal damage and leaks. Also I do have a video regarding refilling your hub. ...
@@ericinalaska7648 Ok I am going to try to drain a bit of the fluid. I do think the castle nut may be a bit too tight since the wheel on the other side seems to turn much easier than the side I repaired. Thanks for the advice!
Good Luck. I hope that gets it done for you. If not. You may want to reevaluate the seal you put in to make sure its seated properly. And that it didn't endure any damage during the assembly. And of course look the other seal over. The one on the back of the hub, for any damage or unusual wear.
The one in the back of the hub? After removing the hub you just remove the brake disc. And there it is. Pop that one out and get the new one started and put the disc back in position starting the bolts. Go evenly around using the brake disc to press the new seal in as you alternate tightening the bolts.. Make sure you note the orientation of the seal that you remove.
Im glad it was helpful. Thank you for your feedback. The manual recommends either the special expensive "Polaris oil" or ATF. Automan=tic transmission fluid. I use a full synthetic ATF+4 Я рад, что это было полезно. Спасибо за ваш отзыв. В руководстве рекомендуется либо специальное дорогое «масло Polaris», либо ATF. Automan = tic трансмиссионная жидкость. Я использую полный синтетический ATF + 4 YA rad, chto eto bylo polezno. Spasibo za vash otzyv. V rukovodstve rekomenduyetsya libo spetsial'noye dorogoye «maslo Polaris», libo ATF. Automatic transmissionnaya zhidkost'. YA ispol'zuyu polnyy sinteticheskiy ATF + 4
Hey Jay. Sorry for the delay. I have another video that talks about that. But in short. Its either the special "Polaris" stuff or the ATF referenced in the video. Heres the link to the other video. Refilling Your Hub Fluid/Oil and Last Thoughts and Nuggets About Assembly. Lots of other related videos as well on my channel.
Assuming your talking about the hub seal and not the strut seal. Try this link. It shows a great picture of the seal orientation. www.manualslib.com/manual/817908/Polaris-Sportsman-400.html?page=239 Let me know if that helps.
I assume the hub seal because that's the video your question was attached to. If your talking about the Strut seal though. I sent a link in a previous response but here it is. ruclips.net/video/X_L7h-glws0/видео.html This is a video I made specifically about that. If your having trouble determining the orientation. Maybe not the simplest way, but good way, is to just review the assembly of the other side. Should get you there.
The manual recommends special polaris oil or ATF automatic transmission fluid. I use full synthetic. ATF+4. I also have a video specifically addressing that process. If the link dosent work check may channel. Eric in Alaska. I have a few more Sportsman related videos on there as well. Refilling Your Hub Fluid/Oil and Last Thoughts and Nuggets About Assembly. Copy and paste if link not active. Show less
Great video. Good paced and additional comments in the video were very helpful. My inner most bearing is bad. I was a little intimidated with this project because all of the parts to be removed. Will change all the other bearings while I am there. Video saved for future reference!!
Glad it helped. Appreciate the feed back.
Great videos on the sportsman. I almost have a brand new machine thanks to your videos
Great to hear. Glad they've been of help. I have a handful more that need to be edited. Stator, Ignition coil, and CDI. All to come.
Thanks for taking the time to make a good video. The fast forward and the text were great. I am getting ready to do the same for a 2003 Sportsman 500.
Appreciate the feed back. Good luck with your projects as well. Your repair and your video. If you have any other questions/repairs I have a handful of other videos on my channel. Thanks again.
Thank you! So many times I can't find videos for projects I'm doing. Lets all expand RUclips University.
You are welcome. Happy to at least contribute in some small way.
Eric, awesome vid! Purchased the seal puller on Amazon n worked excellent. Replaced both strut seal n the hub seal n o-ring on cap. Strut seal popped right out. Hub seal had to use heat gun to very hot to get it out. Again, thx for the grt vid!
Thats fantastic. Glad it was helpful. Appreciate the feedback. Im glad you mentioned the O-ring on the cap. I don't think I ever have in any of the videos. Ive never had a bad one but Im sure some may have and it should be inspected and of course replaced if damaged. Thanks again.
I bought a used strut in very good shape. I know the leak is coming from the seal in the strut. The only thing I can think of is the seal used is not from
Polaris.
Also I put in a new spindle. It's very frustrating. I torqued it to
specs and now it leaks more. The speedy sleeve definitely helped with the hub seal much tighter fit.
Thanks for your help.
Frank
Hard to say about the non OEM seal. Ive generally had decent luck with aftermarket seals but QC on them may not be as good so you may have to really inspect it yourself and make sure the seal is worthy of your efforts. Sometimes ..... a seal will work a bit better as it works a bit and flexes and stretches and softens up. But honestly I would say that shouldn't be an expectation of a new one. A new one should just work right out of the gate. When I say work itself out flex and soften I would apply that to an older one thats been sitting. Like in storage that may be dribbling a bit then you ride and it seems to find itself again.
These videos are incredibly helpful!!! Great job!
Glad they're helping. Thats all I could ask.
Thank you for this video 🙏. I’m about to take on a project with my sportsman 500 HO. Mine has been pulling to the right. Will free itself up on occasion or if I pop a wheelie. Most of the time it’s pulling and forcing me to turn right, making donuts
Not sure if it's exactly the same as your scenario. But for what it's worth. That was an original problem that got me investigating the broken wires. I'd go up a steep loose gravely dirt slope and it would pull to one side. One front wheel. The one with the broken wires obviously wasn't engaging.There were other red flags. But that was one of the symptoms. Glad you found it useful. Not sure if you saw but there are a few other videos in the playlist. As well as a bunch of unrelated stuff. Thanks for the feedback.
Eric in Alaska I’ll be tearing into it tomorrow. Right now I’m looking at my carburetor and the pictures in the Haynes manual, wishing that they had multiple pictures of each carburetor with arrows and labels to what everything’s and where it goes. I have a hose at the bottom of my cab, that was broken off and leaking. I trimmed it and put it back on. Where does the other end go, If anywhere?
Hey Jason. I was looking at my manual. Its actually a Polaris manual. From Polaris. Has great Carb pics in it. I do know that You can definitely google the PDF's and you should be able to find that. I just didn't know your year etc or I would have included a link. But I did find lots of search results. Cant say I know much about the hose your referencing but I bet the online manual will help.
Eric in Alaska thanks again sir. I’ll get online and start searching. I believe mine is a 2002 or 2003 Sportsman 500HO. All green.
I’m about to go out and search for a serial number and confirm the year. You have been very helpful. Thank you 🙏
Eric in Alaska so I’m quite certain it is a 2002. I’ve been doing some much neglected maintenance on it.
I attempted to pull the right hub off. It’s seized more than likely. I jacked the front up and the left spins freely but the right will rotate the driveshaft when I attempt to rotate the tire. I’ve pulled the tire, pulled the hub cap, dry inside. I’ve hosed it down with Blaster and hopefully that will loosen it up enough to wiggle. I’ll add more Blaster and/or some WD40 white lithium grease to it over next couple of days or until it’s freed up. What fluid are you adding back in there to finish the job? Once again, thanks for the videos. I just watched this one again and have it saved for a great quick reference. 👍👍
Excellent video! I appreciate you taking your time to make it for us shade tree mechanics who like to work on our own equipment! I really like the way you take your time and explain everything. I subbed!
I have a question, I just finished replacing all the fluids in my 2000 Sportsman 500 and when I finally got to the front hubs, I found the one on the right side was bone dry! I noticed the hub cap had some cracks in it so I ordered a new one and a new o-ring. While waiting for my new parts to deliver, I was wondering if I should go ahead and replace the bearings since I will already be in there. My question is about the hub seal. Can I just replace that rear seal to keep the hub fluid in place, or do I need to replace the strut seal like you are doing in this video? Any guidance will be appreciated!
Sorry for the delay. Summer. Traveling.How long do you suspect it was dry? Do the bearings appear unusually worn or damaged? Or any of the surfaces? Kinda of a judgment call if they seem fine. After you do this stuff you'll have it down. And if when you get it all back together and something just isn't right, then have at it. Personally I would only replace the seal or a seal in need of replacement. If one is damaged. Replace it. But if I understand your question. I wouldn't replace any just out of preventative maintenance. I believe in preventative maintenance. But in this case. If it aint broke don't fix it.
Thank you for the video! currently in the process putting new hub/wheel bearings in my 04 sportsman 400, had none of the bearings when i got it, trying to figure out where the huge seal goes that came with my hub clutch/bearing kit, and still waiting on strut bearings yet though
The bigger seal if Im understanding you correctly, is in the hub casting. If you remove the brake disc. It's under that. Make note of the direction or orientation of the one you remove. Put the new one in position and then evenly press the new one in by putting the disc back on. Tightening the bolts alternating evenly. Simple as that. Good luck with your project.
@@ericinalaska7648 Much appreciated! i was wondering how it went on with the disc in the way, and the hub was off when i got it, the hilliard clutch and every single bearing was ruined, i'll have it moving once the parts arrive
@@Nuinzowhen you changed the seal in the hub was there a coil wire that come out of the seal.
Put grease on the hub seal and magnet where it rubs, it needs it. The hub seal wears a groove into the magnet sleeve and the fluid leaks out. That seal on mine has a double lip, I reused mine and cleaned it out and regreased that seal. One side was out of fluid but had been empty a while and I saw no leak but I suspect the strut seal could be leaking. But I did not replace any parts, still looking for oil leaks but not seeing any yet.
Yes. I completely agree. As long as your seal isn't damaged or excessively worn from being run dry and you don't have any grooves worn into the sleeve. Its certainly worth the effort. Definitely worth mentioning. I usually just rub the same oil/fluid on it and seems to work well. I do have another video that covers sleeve repair if you do have or end up with grooves. Using a speedi sleeve. And I talk about some of this. Thanks for the note. Im sure people will appreciate it. Knowledge is power.
thanks for the vid I have a 2002 sportsman 500 also and have a similar leak but I was assuming it was the seal in the hub and not the strut seal.I think I will buy a kit and do them all good job.I have also gotten pretty good at tearing this thing down cheers
Good deal. Glad it was of some help. Thanks for the feed back.
Very good video. Thank You
Thank you too!
Nice video
Why Thank You.
It’s been a long time ago that I started my front end rebuild. I am ready to put the inner imbibe seals in and don’t remember which way they go in
Thought for a few minutes, duh, never mind.
Sounds like you got it.
Cool to know thank you for the video.
You bet. Thanks for watching!
I have a Polaris 2002 magnum 325 sportsman that’s why I like watching the mechanics of it.
@@stevegiroux Good deal. You've probably noticed I have a few other videos. I haven't worked on a 325. But I would imagine there are many similarities.
How are you my friend, it’s Tom again from NJ . Just watched your video on replacing the hub seal. Excellent by the way. My question is my break disk and inner wheel is full of grease. I opened the hub oil and it smells burnt. Was on a quad forum and they said it was the hub seal. Do you think that’s so . If so Where did you get the seal puller from ? Thanks for your advice. Tom
Hey Tom. Hard to say the cause without seeing it first hand. But burnt to me would indicate heat of course and if you have the proper level of fluid in the hub I would probably try to investigate the source of that a bit . Id be curious about the bearings. Is a thought. Or if your seal is bad and gunk is getting in or being introduced contaminating your fluid that's possible. I believe I have a link for a seal puller in one of the video descriptions but here is a link for one similar that's reasonably priced. And should also get you where you need to be for some other options if you want to spend a little more for something different or similar. Hope that helps. amzn.to/3dQOfLP
Thanks my friend. I’ll try that puller. Thanks for all your help. Let you know how I make out .
@@thomasimmesberger2644 Sounds good.
Eric, I’m sorry to keep bothering you . My question is would bother to buy the seal kit off of Amazon if you have any other ideas about where I should get the kit from please let me know I don’t trust the knock off stuff all the time. I do trust you and your input and knowledge thanks Tom
@@thomasimmesberger2644 Yah I think its as good as you'll find and likely cheaper that OME. Ill see about digging up a link for you.Give me until tomorrow.
How did you disconnect the lower arm from the ball joints so easily. mine is stuck
I know there are times I have had to persuade them off by using a hard rubber mallet. Or pry between the A arm and the ball joint. One recommended way that I haven't tried. I guess it didn't come to it and my instincts were to do the above. Is to loosen the ball joint nut so its on only a few threads and then hit the nut from below, making sure the ball joint stud is not sticking out, until they separate. Be sure to use a softer mallet or maybe put a wood shim or something to protect the nut a bit. The goal being to not damage it by hitting it with a claw or ball pean hammer. And it doesn't hurt to have a replacement or sacrificial nut to use. Not the method I prefer but seems to work pretty well. If the parts seem to be fused from corrosion. Douse it good with some penetrating oil or liquid wrench and let is soak a bit. They are engineered to be a snug fit but it'll come apart.
No matther what I do, the hub seal (the bigger one) keeps leeking real bad (like I littetaly loose all the oil in a single ride).
On first installment I'm gently taping it in the hub with a flat piece of wood and a hammer so it wont take any damage.
Then I put grease on the rubbers.
When I put the hub back on the magnet I make sure that the rubber isn't folding while installing it.
I bought the model with a little spring that goes around so I make sure that it's secured in place. I figured out (by my own logics) that this spring must go on the outside of the hub and not inside where the oil is trapped ?
Maybe that is what i'm doing wrong ?
The whole thing is very thight on installation yet it keeps emptying from all the oil after a few hours riding.
I've done this 3 times now, each time using a brand new seal. Growing tired of wasting my time and money on this!
HELP !
Hey there. Yah sounds frustrating. 3 things that pop into my mind while reading. Well 4. The fourth was are you putting grease/oil on the rubber contact area. But you described doing so. So 3 more. Assuming there is no damage to any of the contact surfaces. Is it making good contact all the way around? Is it an after market seal? Not necessarily bad but some may not be as good a fit as others. 2. You mentioned the spring and orientation. Its a common thing for people to ask and Id be lying if I haven't been in the same position in the distant past. Successfully removing one. Then celebrating that, cleaning up the parts in preparation to install the new one and saying to my self. Wait, now which way does this thing go? So always take a pic with your phone if you don't think you can trust your memory before removal. The other solution is to compare it to the other side and match that. 3. Assuming all is correct with the previously mentioned potential issues. Do you have a bent or wobbly hub shaft or rim or bearings? Have you ever had a roll over or something that may have bent the hub or drive shaft or rim even a bit? The reason I ask is, if everything goes together well and you spin your wheel and all seems good. And you set it down on the ground and go. There may be just enough wobble to allow poor seal contact at one point or another and allow a leak. So the things I can point at off the top of my head just for review, and I realize you've explored some of these already. Are. Poor fitting seal. Seal not oriented properly. No grease/oil on contact surfaces. Or potential wobble from bent hub or drive shaft and or rim or bad bearings. Also another though. Proper torque on the hub nut. And I realize its a pain but digging in as much as necessary on the opposite side to confirm the seal orientation will still probably be less work and surely less expensive than redoing the bad side a 4th time. I feel your pain though. Ive replaced a seal or two that then leaked and have heard the story many times. But realistically it can only be a few things that would contribute to it. Let me know how it goes.
@@ericinalaska7648
According to another youtuber the spring goes inside.
At first I did exactly that but the spring popped off while I was assembling the hub back on the magnet. It destroyed the rubbers while I was riding (that's why I assumed it had to go the other way around but I was wrong).
On the second installation I did put the spring side backwards (outside) and on the 3rd too 🤦🤦🤦
Question :
Is there a product that I can put between the seal and the hub so I would rest assured that they are making perfect contact without letting any oil out ?
That other guy on youtube is using a product that's called 'assembly goo" puts it on the seal, inside the hub and also uses it to lube the rubbers.
@@mr.octopus6972 Im not aware of anything that will work any better than the usual hub oil or grease or "Assembly goo". If the seal is installed properly and making proper contact and lubed. It shouldn't leak. From your description earlier it sounds like your taking care to tap it in straight with some wood. And as long as its oriented properly, seated all the way in as intended, making contact as required. Meaning bottomed out, and the seal/hub surfaces all lubed and making consistent even contact. And nothing is damaged, including the seal upon install. It SHOULD be good. If it was mine. I'd be frustrated as well. But that's really all it should take to get it right. The seal needs to be installed evenly. If its forced in at an angle and evened out as you go and it becomes out of round or bent in any way. That can create a leak potential.
@@ericinalaska7648
I will try it again with the seals facing the right way and take extra care 🤷
Thanks for your help.
@@mr.octopus6972 No problem. let me know how it goes.
Awesome video. Should help me a ton. I have a 99 sportsman 500 with the same leak of hub fluid onto the inner tire. Can’t wait to see the next video on the seal install. Can you make sure to show the seal install process? It would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Trevor. I have one I just have to edit a bit and Ill get it up soon.
Yeah I’d like to know too. I have seen where some people say it goes in the hub one way and some the other. The new ones I got with my new bearings are not like the old ones, so I’m not sure which way they go back in. I think the bigger lip should go towards the inside of the hub but not sure. Not talking about the strut seal, but the wheel hub.
UPDATE: I checked the manual. It says to install the seal. (Hub Seal) with the spring side toward the hub casting. Press in until flush with with brake disc mating surface. I just put it in place and put the brake disc on and then put the four bolts in and alternately tighten each forcing the seal in place gradually and evenly. Again. Spring side going in first toward casting. Hope Ive cleared that up.
Hey John. If your talking about the seal on the hub behind the brake disc. I talk about that a little in another video. But its not the main topic. Not sure I address that. But I will also see if I can get some sort of pic for you from the manual to clear that up for you and anyone else interested. Might take me till next week sometime but Ill get it for yah. Check out my channel if you haven't already. I'll have more stuff as time goes by and if you subscribe of course it'll notify you of new stuff.
I have a 1994 Polaris Sportsman 400 4×4 the front right side is clicking would you kno of a reason?
My first thought is some debris or maybe a sticking brake pad or maybe a bent part? Thats where Id start visually. And then dig deeper if necessary. Without seeing it and experiencing it first hand its kind of hard. I can only guess. But based on the info Id get down and look it all over real good and compare it to the other side to clarify if something doesn't look right.
Why is it that when I try to remove the castle nut the whole axel turns, preventing me from replacing the Hilliard clutch. My right side 4wd keeps crapping out & the demand drive oil is full of metal shavings, 2nd year in a row. Anyway thanks for the detailed video!
Hmm. Yah that shouldn't be. My instinct is it may be getting over tighten or torqued? If you take the cotter pin out, the castle nut with a little start like loosening the jar lid, should just about spin off using just your fingers. Something has to be bugared up, not as manufactured any more. If you have shavings things are likely jammed up, possibly causing the issue. I cant imagine much more harm can come of doing whatever it takes to getting it loose and apart. Tire on the ground with a good chuck that will grab your tire and keep it from spinning and a good breaker bar and pipe if needed is how Id come at it in such a case. To get it started anyway. Then you can lift it up again and get the tire out of your way. Once you get the nut off. Then start directing the parts from there as you can get them off. Look at the hub real good as well for damage. If it seems ok. And new bearings are in order. Make sure they fit satisfactorily as you put things back together. Let me know how it goes.
@@ericinalaska7648 thank you so much for that! I’m a little hesitant to go with an aftermarket Hilliard again but an OEM is crazy expensive. Last time I torqued it to spec so I wonder if something else could cause the black oil? Definitely can’t buy a 300 Hilliard every snow storm lol. Regardless, I’ll let you know , thanks again I really appreciate you taking the time out to help!
@@TheScott247 No problem Scott. You sound like you're on it. Look forward to hearing what comes of it.
@@ericinalaska7648 hey Eric, I can’t find anywhere in my references how much torque to put on that castle nut. Do you know?
@@TheScott247 The book refers to it as a spindle nut and and hub nut. And say's to torque to 160-170 inch ponds. While continuously rotating hub. Note inch pounds not foot pounds. Back off half a turn. Then rotate the axle several times by raising the rear of the machine and rotating rear wheel with machine in gear. Then re-torque nut to 108-144 inch pounds. Insert cotter pin. if hole for pin does not align slightly tighten to align. Do not exceed 144 inch ponds. If your torque wrench only shows foot pounds. There are 12 inch pounds to a foot pound. so 108- to 144 inch pounds is 9 - 12 foot pounds.
great video...should i pack the bearings that go in first with grease ? the fluid in the hubs wont be touching those bearings.
I never have. And I can't say Ive ever come across anything that says to do so. The Bearings should be bathing in the oil/fluid. Workin its way around and through all surfaces and parts within the hub as the wheel spins. If Im understanding your question correctly.
I meant to also mention in case you didn't see it. I also have this video specifically about refilling your hub.ruclips.net/video/OxW3KV1WpFM/видео.html
I’m curious, did pulling your strut damage anything? I’ve watched videos and everyone took the axle out completely.
Im not aware of any issues. Certainly potential I would say if your rough with it .
Hey Eric. 👋 why do you think my polaris wobbles while riding it at 30mph. I have tried putting more air on the front tires...any tips?
Front end? Have you or anyone ever rolled it or crashed or anything? My first thought would be a bent drive shaft/hub if so. Or rim maybe? Side note. I usually keep my tires pretty soft. Meaning lower pressure. So much less bouncing off rocks etc. They tend to grab better also.
When I put the hub back on it was significantly tighter around the seal. I tightened the castle nut tight then loosened it and handed tightened it. It spins freely but it’s pretty snug! Is this normal? Like I said after seating everything I just hand tightened the castle nut
Im not sure what year mark model you have. But for this one in the video. And assuming the bearings are properly installed. After its all together. It gets torqued, or really over torqued and then backed off. The manual says the following. Torque spindle to 160-170 inch pounds while rotating hub continuously. Back off nut 1/2 turn. Then this step that made me scratch my head a bit but here it is. Rotate axle several revolutions by raising the rear of machine and rotating the rear wheels with the machine in gear. Then retorque hub nut to 108 - 144 inch lbs.install cotter pin. If pin hole does not line up tighten slightly to line up but do not exceed 144 inch lbs.
It's my understanding that the overtorquing and rotating will get everything seated properly then when you back off your creating the proper play. Let me know how it goes. Hope that helps.
I did that. The new seals are a lot tighter when I spin the hub by hand. Just making sure it was suppose to be tight and snug when I spin it by hand. The other side, I did not replace is a lot looser. Also it’s 20 years old lol
@@timothywells457 As long as all surfaces are clean and undamaged and you should put a little grease or oil on the seal and hub contact surfaces. Should be good. Are they after market seals or Polaris? Its pos if aftermarket they may be a slightly snugger fit and or slightly different material and flexibility but cant say for sure. Just thoughts.
Eric, what did you set the torque too when your replaced the castle nut on the hub?
Manual indicates for initial bearing adjustment to torque to 160-170 INCH lbs. Notice not foot lbs. While rotating hub continuously. Then back off nut 1/2 turn. Then retorque to 108 - 144 inch lbs. and adjust as needed to align hole for cotter pin but do not exceed 144 inch lbs. Its been a few years but I think I babble about that in the video. If not this one its additional info in another.
Hi Eric I tried everything new strut seal new hub seal new bearing. I even used a speedie sleeve helped a little but still leaking . Any other ideas
Your videos have been very helpfull.
Thanks Frank
Is it pos. your shaft is bent? Was the wear on the surface the seal rides on even all the way around? Or deep on one side and not so much on the other? That would indicate some bend. Did you wipe the seal with some oil/Fluid on the contact surface? And I guess the other thing Id look at while troubleshooting is how the seal is seated and of course that it didn't endure any damage when putting it in? Im always careful to slide the hub on gently and evenly making contact first then ease it on with some twist. Making sure as it rides on and over the edge of the new speedo sleeve it dosent get snagged or sheared or something. And of course making sure your all torqued down to the proper specs on your castle nut. Maybe after you've ridden a bit now just revisit that. Ive heard people mention that ramming the fluid in when filling your hub could blow out a seal but I think you'd have to have the intro hole sealed up with what ever your putting fluid in with and create quite a bit of pressure. I don't see that being a likely scenario. Those are pretty much the obstacles I can offer. Let me what happens.
Had same problem,had to replace strut assembly and driveshaft
do u think u can provide a link to all the bearing and every thing that goes inside i did a oopsie and and broke the screw that holds the cover for the hub on and i thought that it would be fine but nope and how many ft pounds does the castle nut to be at..sorry for the spelling
What year make and model are you needing it for. I don't recall off hand the foot-pounds but I do believe I discuss it in the video. But again. Year make and model will matter. I would think getting the broke pc from the hub cap should be pretty doable with some effort. Its not too long and not a real binding thread. For this particular model. The manual indicates for initial bearing adjustment to torque to 160-170 INCH lbs. Notice not foot lbs. While rotating hub continuously. Then back off nut 1/2 turn. Then retorque to 108 - 144 inch lbs. and adjust as needed to align hole for cotter pin but do not exceed 144 inch lbs. Its been a few years but I think I babble about that in the video. If not this one its additional info in another.
@@ericinalaska7648 thanks sorry i forgot the year its a 2001 polaris sportsman 500 ho
@@levicarrol9401 SO here is a link for "A" replacement kit. I have not personally used this kit. But I have used replacement shafts from these guys and they were great. You have to look this kit over and make sure it has everything you're looking for or not. And if its the same as well as comparable or compatible with yours. If nothing else this link will get you where you need to be to search further. Hope it helps. amzn.to/3RrJmqF
thank you so much
@@levicarrol9401 Yah good luck with it all. I hope that helps or at least gets you where you need to be to get headed in the right direction.
Would bad seals cause bad bearings which would cause the atv to pull hard to the right?
I bought the atv knowing it had a bad seal haven't gotten around to replacing it and now it pulls hard to the right
The side with the bad seal
It does it at random times
I was on a path to respond until the end when you said It happens at random times. But to answer your initial question before that. Yes. Bad seals equal leaking fluid. If enough leaks leaving your bearings dry. Then yes they endure increased friction and ware as well as all other parts relying on the lubrication. If they're overheating or even seized up from it. Your machine would then pull to the affected side. I also have another video showing seal replacement and talk about some things in that one as well. Heres the link to that one. This video covers the strut seal and if I recall correctly I talk a bit about the hub seal as well. ruclips.net/video/X_L7h-glws0/видео.html
1 more question which way do set the seal spring facing the hub or seal spring facing into the the spindle
At the moment Id have to review that and I don't have access to the book or the wheeler. Not to promo a video shamelessly but I think you should be able to tell on the rear seal video (at least visually) or maybe the refilling your hub and last thoughts video. I know I cover a lot on reassembly on that one in addition to the refilling of the hub. And Its been a bit but I would imagine I talk about it in one of those. If you can't find it I apologize I just don't want to misinform you not having the proper reference at the moment. Ill try to get it for you in a bit though if you haven't found it. Also hard to say about the non OEM seal. Ive generally had decent luck with aftermarket seals but QC on them may not be as good so you may have to really inspect it yourself and make sure the seal is worthy of your efforts. Sometimes ..... a seal will work a bit better as it works a bit and flexes and stretches and softens up a bit. But honestly I would say that shouldn't be an expectation of a new one. A new one should just work right out of the gate. When I say work itself out flex and soften I would apply that to an older one thats been sitting. Like in storage that may be dribbling a bit then you ride and it seems to find itself again.
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@@ericinalaska7648 thanks I did see your strut hub installation. I did the same way . Sorry to be a pain . Again thanks for the RUclips video its the best one I've seen on front hub assembly.
No worries. Im glad its ll been of help. Thats the goal. I certainly don't know everything but will do my best to help if I can.
how do you change the bearing races in the strut without messing up the magnet
Messing up the magnet meaning damaging it? Or messing up the proper whats known as pole gap? As far as damaging it. Yes it can be a very delicate process. And seems a good chance of a can of worms. But as far as messing it up meaning proper adjustment after assembly. Again delicate. The gap between the inner and outer pole measured in 3 places should not exceed .001 of an inch (.025mm). And the variation between those 3 points should not exceed half that. .0005 of an inch (.013mm). I have not personally performed that particular task. I do know how ever that if its out it'll effect the function. The manual states this will cause erratic engagement. When I was exploring replacing mine due to the wires being sheared off. I was considering just taking my strut in to have it replaced. I had a conversation with a guy at the local service department and he seemed leery of touching it. I think mainly out of compassion for the labor that would be involved and the expense. So I explored maybe finding a used strut assembly in good condition. Cheaper than labor and other potential parts. Then I was able to sort out the wires and all was right with the world. (Other video.)There may be someone out there with better intel or tips. The service manual dosent cover the specific task of bearing race replacement. Or coil replacement. Just proper adjustment. Are your races excessively worn or damaged? Not a perfect solution of course but could you get away with just replacing the bearings? Not ideal I realize but maybe a way out if the races are in decent shape.And at least get you back out there. Im guessing there probably not if your already exploring it to this level. If Ive misunderstood your question or if you have any others. Let me know. I hope some of this was at least helpful though.
By chance is there an interval to change the hub fluid even if your seal is good?
Service manual(s) recommend at 100hrs. And to check every 50hrs.
@@ericinalaska7648 Thanks Eric. Nice job on the videos.
@@goatsmakesoapco.9113 Thank you. Appreciate it. Im currently editing one that covers changing the fluid in the front gear case and the transmission. If you're interested. Check for that in the next few days.
I got 01 Polaris magnum 325 leaking from back of tire will my new strut seal fix the problem.
There are no guarantees of course. One way to find out is to take it apart and evaluate the seal for any damage or ware, cracks etc.
@@ericinalaska7648 I'm now getting the seal on the other one was oily and bent , the new is tight getting it on.
@@codyharris9472 Bent while installed or after taking it out? They are snug for sure to get in. But that's by design. Also don't forget to get a little oil, or some use grease on the contacting surfaces to reduce friction, ware, and increase sealing effect of new one.
@@ericinalaska7648 the new one was right but it is in, the old was bent .thanks for helping me out
@@codyharris9472 Hope it works out for you. Sounds like it should. Glad to help.
Great video Eric. What direction does the seal go in? Spring towards the hub or spring towards the CV axle? Thanks!
Im actually away at the moment traveling. Not to be a wise guy though. If in doubt look at the other wheel. If you don't recall how the one you took out was oriented. If that dosent work out for you. Let me know and Ill have a more definitive answer when I get back. And Im assuming your talking about the hub seal and not the strut seal. Correct?
I got an 01 sportsman...how much play should be between the hillard clutch and the hub if you have the hub removed and set the hilliard down inside?
So if Im understanding you correctly. You have it all disassembled and you set the hub on the ground, hubcap end down. And your putting the hilliard into the hub in this position without the shaft involved. To check clearance. If thats what your saying. I would be more concerned about the clearance when assembled on the shaft. If there were a clearance problem and appears to be wear indicated on the inside of the hub or hiliiard from rubbing. Then I would explore that of course. But I would suspect if that were the case you would have other indicators or problems to repair as well. Meaning something else is out of whack to affect that. What got you to that point/question? Bent shaft? Bearings? Did you do any work on the hilliard clutch? If I didn't understanding your question. Id need a little more info. Let me know. Happy to help as best I can.
@@ericinalaska7648 My 4wd has not been working, since i bought the thing about a year ago. Ive got magnet to the coils, new armatures, new hilliards, everything torqued by the book, and filled to 3'oclock with demand drive.
I get zero engagement out of either wheel. The inside of the passenger side (sorry im a truck guy) hub has a slight groove to it, i have not checked other side yet. But i literally have, prolly, 1/8-1/4 in of play between the hilliard and hub, when disassembled like you described.
I have ran the machine in 4wd with the hub off, and can watch the hilliard expand.
Im also getting shavings in the hub oil with no obvious source.
Hmmm. Its sounds like your going through the motions and trying to do it all right. Is the groove in the hub at the armature plate end of the clutch or the further away end. Your armature plate Im assuming is properly positioned and not bent. Im just thinking about the shavings. And when you ran it with the hub off the clutch expands. And the 1/8 to a 1/4 clearance you have is Im assuming unexpanded set in the hub. That seems realistic. If you visualize how much its expanding with the hub off. I cant find any spec on that. My instinct is Id want to see if when the hubs on is it still expanding. (X-ray vision) And your putting the hub on carefully as to not reposition any of that as you put the hub back on. Its easy to reposition it (The armature plate) if you reverse course at all when putting it on. Things will go together but if those dog ears or tabs as they call them on the armature plate aren't aligned. Issues. Poss. Shavings. lack of engagement. Im not sure thats the issue but something to check. See if you can wipe everything down and figure out where the shavings are coming from. Beyond that without having been part of the process Im about at my limit of suggestions. Unless you have more clues of course.
@@ericinalaska7648 We expanded the hubs by hand and measured from roller to roller, they do not expand enough (we are 98% sure) to hit the inside of hub.
Youve been much help though bud, i apperciate it! Im subscribing
Did you replace the retainer spring on the hilliard? I read in the manual that old springs and newer designs may have different tension. And also if there compromised when taking them off or putting them on. Stretched or deformed. But if you put new ones on that have more tension than the older version. That would obviously cause the expansion to struggle.
What year is your Polaris sportsman ? Mines an 07.
The one in this video is a 2002. 500.
Anyone know why you only fill hub fluid to 3 o'clock? I replaced bearings and strut seal and still have some leakage but wonder if it is because I overfilled the fluid. I topped it off to the 12 o clock position. Is it possible that it is heating up with no room for expansion and squeezing out of the seal?
There could be a few things causing the leaking. Bad Seals. Improperly torqued castle nut. Seals should be pliable and I usually rub some fluid on the contact surfaces. Some use a compatible grease. To create better seal and some lubrication between the rubber and metal surfaces. And Possibly overfilling? I cant really find anything specifically addressing that but I don't think your thought about overfilling and heat and expansion is out of the question. But I really don't have the specifics of the science behind that. I would imagingine its specified for a reason though. Im guessing but perhaps it allows more room for circulation and cooling etc. When its full full to the tippy top in the 12:00 o'clock position. It just becomes a minimally churning warm fluid mass with less movement and less ability to cool. Im just pulling this stuff out with both hands but. A thought.
The Manual states: Remove fill check plug and rotate to either 4:00 o'clock or 8:00 o'clock position. Fill with Polaris Premium demand Drive Hub Fluid or Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid until fluid trickles out. NOTE: Do not force the oil into the hub under pressure. This can cause seal damage and leaks.
Also I do have a video regarding refilling your hub.
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@@ericinalaska7648 Ok I am going to try to drain a bit of the fluid. I do think the castle nut may be a bit too tight since the wheel on the other side seems to turn much easier than the side I repaired. Thanks for the advice!
Good Luck. I hope that gets it done for you. If not. You may want to reevaluate the seal you put in to make sure its seated properly. And that it didn't endure any damage during the assembly. And of course look the other seal over. The one on the back of the hub, for any damage or unusual wear.
Do you have a PDF I can get?
A PDF? Like from a manual or? What are you trying to see? Or what is it that your wanting a PDF of?
How about removing the other seal?
The one in the back of the hub? After removing the hub you just remove the brake disc. And there it is. Pop that one out and get the new one started and put the disc back in position starting the bolts. Go evenly around using the brake disc to press the new seal in as you alternate tightening the bolts.. Make sure you note the orientation of the seal that you remove.
Привет из России 🇷🇺. Спасибо за видео. Очень помог разобраться. Хотелось бы узнать какое масло заливать после сборки и сколько ?👍🏻
Im glad it was helpful. Thank you for your feedback. The manual recommends either the special expensive "Polaris oil" or ATF. Automan=tic transmission fluid. I use a full synthetic ATF+4
Я рад, что это было полезно. Спасибо за ваш отзыв. В руководстве рекомендуется либо специальное дорогое «масло Polaris», либо ATF. Automan = tic трансмиссионная жидкость. Я использую полный синтетический ATF + 4
YA rad, chto eto bylo polezno. Spasibo za vash otzyv. V rukovodstve rekomenduyetsya libo spetsial'noye dorogoye «maslo Polaris», libo ATF. Automatic transmissionnaya zhidkost'. YA ispol'zuyu polnyy sinteticheskiy ATF + 4
What kind of oil do you use to fill it back up?
Hey Jay. Sorry for the delay. I have another video that talks about that. But in short. Its either the special "Polaris" stuff or the ATF referenced in the video. Heres the link to the other video. Refilling Your Hub Fluid/Oil and Last Thoughts and Nuggets About Assembly. Lots of other related videos as well on my channel.
Ok thanks for the info & Video
No problem. Hope its all been helpful.
can u show which way the seal goes in ?
Assuming your talking about the hub seal and not the strut seal. Try this link. It shows a great picture of the seal orientation. www.manualslib.com/manual/817908/Polaris-Sportsman-400.html?page=239 Let me know if that helps.
I assume the hub seal because that's the video your question was attached to. If your talking about the Strut seal though. I sent a link in a previous response but here it is. ruclips.net/video/X_L7h-glws0/видео.html This is a video I made specifically about that. If your having trouble determining the orientation. Maybe not the simplest way, but good way, is to just review the assembly of the other side. Should get you there.
What kind of hub oil u use
The manual recommends special polaris oil or ATF automatic transmission fluid. I use full synthetic. ATF+4. I also have a video specifically addressing that process. If the link dosent work check may channel. Eric in Alaska. I have a few more Sportsman related videos on there as well.
Refilling Your Hub Fluid/Oil and Last Thoughts and Nuggets About Assembly.
Copy and paste if link not active.
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Just wondering if I it reversed
See my response to your previous two. And let me know how it goes.