Hey Eric, just servicing up my front hubs also for plow season in Ohio on a 2001 Sportsman 6x6, but hey great simple video, great to brush up on reminders!! Thank you awesome job, simple an on point!
Thanks for the kind words. Glad you found it helpful. Ive been keeping my eyes open for one of those. Ever since I watched one glide across some swampy muck and muddy boggy mountain slopes with ease where regular 4x4's wrestled a bit. Few on the market though, or least in the budget.
Thanks Joe. That's the goal. Most of all, of course, I hope it was helpful. Appreciate the feedback. You likely saw. But if not. There are a handful more there to peruse.
Brother. Im finding your videos utterly perfect, as I just bought a barn find 2001 400 with 600 miles on it. Keep up the good work. Eric in Alaska is an Encyclopedia of the Polaris sportsman, you should subscribe if you own one.
I didnt know it was the only one. I may have when I made it. That ones a few years old. But I guess it's good someone covered it then huh? Most , not all, but most of the stuff I do is prompted by a lack of finding it if Ive looked. Browse through the playlist a bit. You never know what you'll find.
@@ericinalaska7648 I did. Started to take apart my hub thinking it was going to be dry and to my surprise it had proper amount of oil although very dirty. Left it at that pending lower a arm bushing kit and tie rod kit arrival. perhaps will do a quick video of the All Balls Tie Rod Upgrade Kit. Meanwhile charging my battery as I have a feeling it may contribute to bad 4x4 experience as it is electric and we get no charge on low rpm. so battery state was at 11.7v Next project is to put lifepo4 battery, so trying to figure out if atv would charge it or if I need to keep acid battery and add lifepo4 in parallel
Just did my 2004 500 HO. Helpful set of videos. Thank you sir! Wouldn't mind the reassembly video, but probably too long ago now. Not too sure of the torque specs on the castle nuts so I winged it. Hopefully they'll be okay.
Glad to hear you've found them helpful. I did a disassembly video and you can just reverse the steps and I believe I covered torque in that as well. ruclips.net/video/aB71Y7bt3Rk/видео.html is the link for that one. But for the year make and model Im working on in the video the torque instructions are as follows. 1. Torque spindle nut to 160-170 Inch lbs. (18-19 Nm). while rotating hub continuously. 2. Back off nut 1/2 turn. 3.Rotate axle several revolutions by raising rear of machine and rotating rear wheels with the machine in gear. 4.Re-torque hub nut to 108-144 inch lbs.(12-16.3 Nm) 5. Install cotter pin. If if cotter pin holes do not align . Tighten slightly to align and install pin. Do not exceed 144 inch lbs. And then the rest of the assembly and refill of course. Cap fluid etc.
Love your videos very thorough and straight to the point. I didn’t hear what type of atf you use. Dexron 3 work? I got some sitting in the shop and I’m currently doing front axles.
Hey Eric. I replaced the seals and it’s still leaking. The new O rings and the inside seal that sits around the axle. Was wondering if you ever got yours to stop leaking? What did you do? Also I didn’t buy factory Polaris seals. Do you think that could be the problem?
I did get mine to stop leaking. So you replaced the o-rings in the cap, and both seals. The one behind the brake disk as well as the one on the strut? Can you tell the source of the leak. I cant imagine the o-rings being a problem. The Plug would be pretty obvious as well. So that leaves the two seals. All I can suggest is the same as I would do. Make sure the surfaces are undamaged. There is good contact. some oil or grease on the contact surfaces. Make sure things are spinning properly with proper torque. And there is no wobble or what would indicate something being bent or not seating correctly. Bearings good? And yes its always pos to have some after market parts that may not be up to snuff. I haven't personally run into it but now days when trying to find the cheapest option. That cheapest option can be cheap for a reason that can bite yah. Im not saying stay away from after market stuff. Just make sure you research the feedback a bit until you're comfortable that they'll get the job done. Not saying that's the issue for you but could be who knows.
Thank you for the great video and the useful info given and yes Polaris parts and fluids are definitely over priced. You have another subscriber as well.
Great job. Subscribed and Liked. That parts supplier in FL would be helpful. I am in Mexico and have trouble sourcing parts at fair prices. Thanks again.
Hey Darrin. Thanks. Glad or hope it was of helpful. I looked up who I had ordered the axle's from and its a company called "East Lake Axle" I actually got them through Amazon but Im sure you can get them directly. Not sure which would be cheaper for you with shipping and all other considerations. Good Luck. And I don't know if you saw but I have a few other related videos as well.
@@ericinalaska7648 Yep, watched a couple others and bookmarked it in folders for reviewing in the future. It may also help bring in more traffic. I have three Polaris quads and a Tomcar TM4 which need lots of maintenance and I am starting to "wrench every day" now. Your channel is quite helpful. I wish I had found it a week earlier. Could have saved me a bunch of work on my Sportsman 400 from hub and cv boot. Keep up the good work and look us up if you ever get South of the Border.
TomCar. Ive been spending a bit of time in AZ and I keep coming across those. Wasn't really aware of those before. How do you like those? Plus's, minus's? They look like they'd be fun but not knowing much about them I was a little apprehensive. As far as repairs and parts availability etc.
@@ericinalaska7648 TomCar is an interesting concept and company. Like Polaris, they have military sales. Unlike Polaris, they are built on a true industrial scale in relationship to the frame and A arms. 15" standard clearance with an aircraft aluminum protective underlayment. The 2 seater can carry a standard payload of well over a ton short distances. They are 2 wheel drive, but can keep up with Razors and the like with wheel travel also of 15" and locking differential and portal axles. Mine is 2006 and is a 4 seater. It has a 3 cyl. Diahatsu 1 liter (DMG-950) motor rated at 28 HP. The new ones have 1.5 liter 4 cyl. engines with I believe 85 HP. Word from factory technician is that I can pick up a nearly "new" 2017 or 2018 unit with under 200 hrs. for about 1/2 price because (secret) they are about to introduce a true 4 x 4 version. Things are about to get real interesting. Email me at mexicoecoresort@gmail.com and I can share much, much more.
@@ericinalaska7648 Arizona you say. I am just South in Sonora. 4 hrs South of the Border in San Carlos. The President is here this week. Love to have you come down and visit. I need a good mechanic to rebuild the motor on the TomCar, parts are available at any Briggs and Stratton dealer. I am going to "try" to reassemble the front hub unit tomorrow after repacking grease on new cv boot. I also need to reinstall the brake calipers, and reconnect steering arm, and then re-install all the body panels. I had to remove all the plastic to rust proof the frame and reinstall steering column base bearings and upper steering bracket bushing. Discovered both A arms were bent, one badly and needed to straighten those and install new spacer bushing and re-grease inner core. One was bent so badly, it was a miracle it was operating so well.
I have a 1996. Your numerous instructional videos have been awesome. My problem is the drain plug in the front left tub is super tight. I have used deep creep penetrating oil. I have started to twist my Allen wrench. I’m nervous that I might not get it out without stripping it. Any suggestions? Thanks
My instinct is it maybe got over cranked some where along the way. Or is it rusty? Penetrating oil soak it really good overnight or more if you have the time. And have at it. If it does strip worse case scenario if your comfortable with it you could always drill and tap it the next cap screw size up. If it strips. Id be surprised if it didn't let loose with persistence though. Thats a decent sized Allen wrench. And there relatively cheap. Al long as the the wrench is a good fit and the hole isn't buggered up or stripped out.I believe it'll give. If the Allen wrench brakes Id think you could get the pc out and attempt again with another. Also maybe a Allen bit in a ratchet or even a impact? Thats how Id come at it anyway. Thanks for the appreciation of the efforts.
@@michaelmilani4387 So I let it soak a bit, I used a touch of heat around the plug, tapped just a touch and finally made sure it was a new wrench. I put my adjustable pliers on the end and prayed! It let loose! I do have a friend who has an impact tool that you tap with a hammer but didn’t need too. Good luck!
Thanks for the help , just picked up a 1999 sportsman 500 like urs ,, watching ur videos have really helped ,,,, did U say that if ur speedometer doesn’t work that ur 4 wheel drove won’t work or did I hear wrong
Glad your finding the videos to be of help. Yes if the speedometer doesn't work it CAN, depending on the issue, can effect the AWD. But if your speedo isn't working it doesn't necessarily mean your AWD won't work and vice versa. A bad cable/speed sensor can cause for example no speed indication but everything else can work. Im not sure if your referencing the "Prepairing to go through it" video.ruclips.net/video/lO1SljA22sg/видео.html. or the speedometer repair video.ruclips.net/video/ADNyJ5sx83o/видео.html But the speedometer repair video covers quite a bit about that if you haven't seen that one. Thanks for the support.
Id take the end cap off also. Better draining and it allows you to see if there is any grit or sign of ware. Then put the cap back on and refill through the plug hole. Do you have to? No. But I do. It only adds a few minutes to the job and gives you a better assessment of the oil coming out and perhaps grit that may not. I have been raising one side, the opposite side, of the machine and removing the cap to drain. Then the other side.
Thanks for the video. I just picked up a ‘95 Magnum 4x4 and tried to replace the lubricant but found that an Allen wrench snapped off in one of the set screws and it was then ground down flush. The other one is very tight so I hesitate to torque down on it to get it out. I was considering jacking up the left side of the machine to a 45 angle and pulling the cap, removing the oil with suction, inserting 40cc of oil and replacing the cap. Then repeat on the right side. Do you think that might work or do you see a problem based on the design of the internals? Thanks
You could just leave it on all fours to pull the cap(s) and drain them. Then raise one side to refill with the appropriate amount. And repeat.Once you drain the fluid out. Look into the hub with a light and see if you can see the tip of the screw poking through. And if it looks right or anything you can grab. I would be obsessing with addressing the set screw(s) though eventually. Stuff like that stays with me until I fix it. Id be surprised if you couldn't get the other one out. Some one must have maybe had a leak they tried to fix by cranking it tight and it broke? They usually just need to be cracked/broke loose to remove them. Maybe some penetrating oil over night. I haven't ever had or seen one break trying to remove one though. Just make sure you have a good clean, not rounded. Properly fitting Allen wrench. Not one that's close, but a good fit. And it should come out. Does the broken one have anything left to get an Allen wrench in? If not I can't help but wonder if maybe someone substituted another bolt and ground it down. If so. An Easy out or drilling it as big as you can with out damaging the threads on the hub is an option..If I were doing it Id take the hub off. I know that's a bit more of a commitment than just changing your fluid. But The more you do it the more you understand what's all going on in there and the easier it is every time. The screws just kind of bottom out at the leading edge or some may be a tapered thread but either way its pressure creating a seal and usually unless they've been run bone dry and neglected some fluid would have been on the threads last time in and out. But they commonly will brake free. With a bit of resistance. And the bonus of fixing them is you don't have to be so creative in the future and it won't be such a deterrent to keeping on the maintenance. You certainly can do it the way you suggest though. Just make sure you have it raised enough that it will take the recommended amount without spilling out. And don't overfill. They put the drain plugs/set screws in there to make it easier. But same end goal.
Hi Eric, Really appreciate your videos. They are easy to understand and follow. Do you happen to have one showing an oil change in your Polaris? I looked at some of your other videos and did not see one.
Hey Dan. Thanks for the feedback. I don't currently have an oil change video. I usually make them on stuffI haven't seen out there already to fill a gap on something not covered or maybe add some info to something covered but missed a few things that may be helpful.. I thought about making one but Im willing to bet a search would yield a few. Do you have a specific question regarding that or anything I may be able to help with? If you've searched and maybe haven't found your exact year, Id be willing to bet you'll find one with similar enough design that it'll get you through it. Let me know If I can help.
Hey there Dan. A few months ago you inquired about if I had made an oil change on a Polaris video. I now have done so. Its actually A pretty Deep dive and maybe more than you were needing but I think whatever level of info your looking for It should cover it. If your still interested the link is. ruclips.net/video/B9KhYMiWgeY/видео.html. "Polaris COMPLETE oil change & Much More. DEEP DIVE."
Manual indicates for initial bearing adjustment to torque to 160-170 INCH lbs. Notice not foot lbs. While rotating hub continuously. Then back off nut 1/2 turn. Then retorque to 108 - 144 inch lbs. and adjust as needed to align hole for cotter pin but do not exceed 144 inch lbs. It's been a few years but I think I babble about that in the video. If not this one, its additional info in another.
You should be able to find them at just about any hardware store Id think. You of course need to know what size you need. When you say stripped out do you mean the part the Allen wrench go's in or the threads? Im assuming the Allen wrench part. Just take it with you to a place that sells nuts and bolts etc and match it. Or ... Im sure a Polaris shop would love to sell you one for a bit of a markup but it would be nothing special other the price. But I know Home Depot and Lowes has some bins /drawers with less common stuff like that. Well may less commonly sold there anyway. And usually on one of the posts in the screw/nuts/bolts isle that have a thing hanging that you can mate your part up to to identify the proper size. Otherwise maybe a fasteners type store that specializes in fasteners.. Or nuts bolts screws etc. Id almost think if you went in one of those they'd just say here. Because it wouldn't be worth wringing up one pc. Hope that helps.
Hey I’ve been watching your videos lately I’ve got Polaris project machine and I have fluid leaking from my hub. The O ring on the cap has been replaced and not leaking from there anymore but now it’s leaking from infront of the disk break thing.. where would the seal be ? Inside the strut ? Or In back of the hub?
There is a seal behind the disc and one on the back of the strut. If you take your hub off. Then remove the disc. You will see it. That sounds like what you're describing. Then after removing the old one. You press the new one in with the disc. As you replace the bolts and draw it back down into position it will press the new seal in. Do it evenly of course. Alternating between bolts to press it in straight.
Hi Eric...good videos. I also am in Alaska living in Fairbanks. Whenever I go to fill mine it leaks out so I'm guessing the seals need replaced on mine. I noticed you did an entire video on the front hub and all the parts associated with that. Is there a kit you can buy that has all that in it? Links to the parts you use would be really helpful. Thanks in advance
Hey Taylor. Other than the seals, I used all my existing parts. I guess that's why I didn't mention any sources. The seals I just picked up at the local Polaris shop. I buy shafts\hub assemblies from a place called Eastlake Axle. They also have some bearing and seal kits. I have had great results using the shafts\axles and so have some of my friends Ive recommended them to. The bearing and seal kits look reasonably priced as well but I have no experience with theres. However, If I needed one. I wouldn't hesitate to buy one from them. I have no connection with them Ive just been pleased with the stuff Ive gotten as well as pleased with the price. You can find their stuff on Amazon and of course covers shipping.Or you can get it direct from Eastlake Axle. If you go direct to the website they have free 2 day shipping I believe for orders over $62. Heres the links. www.eastlakeaxle.com.
Hey Dave. Sorry for the delayed reply. I was traveling. I don't grease any of the parts. Just fill the hub as described and the Fluid will circulate as needed. You shouldn't see any sign of any grease when you take it apart. I wouldn't think. I never had anyway. I just wipe everything down and look everything over to make sure there isn't any abrasive debris or anything and you should be good.
Hi Eric I just bought a 2005 500cc Polaris Scrambler and I noticed after I brought her home yesterday that it was not disengaging on the left front wheel I call it the left front wheel when I'm sitting on the bike so I took it apart to see what was going on and just all kinds of shavings and oh my goodness tha Armature ring was bet in several places I don't know if I'm going to have to replace the whole strut Tower housing and all the bearings I might need your help with this I'm going to go ahead and order the bearing kit and seals then also comes with the Armature ring and hopefully I don't have to buy the whole strut Tower housing cuz it may be chewed up and not usable this video really helped me a lot
You bet. Sounds like it helped. If your looking for any other stuff there are many other videos on the channel as well. If you dint already discover that. Thanks for the feedback.
Appreciate the feedback. Just trying to fill a void. I had trouble finding anything specific to what I was doing so I thought Id video it. Hopefully its helpful to a few people.
This is an Amazon link to them. If you have a different yr/mk/mdl of course you'd need different ones but easily searchable once you're there. amzn.to/3tV7lc2 Eastlake is the brand. Hope that helps.
The manual recommends special polaris oil or ATF automatic transmission fluid. I use full synthetic. ATF+4 В руководстве рекомендуется специальное масло для поляризатора или жидкость для автоматической трансмиссии ATF. Я использую полную синтетику. АТФ + 4 V rukovodstve rekomenduyetsya spetsial'noye maslo dlya polyarizatora ili zhidkost' dlya avtomaticheskoy transmissii ATF. YA ispol'zuyu polnuyu sintetiku. ATF + 4
Would love to have the name other place in Florida that you ordered your parts from. I'm having some of the same issues and watch your videos and he helped me out a lot.
East Lake is the name. Also available on Amazon. But if you can't find your specific part on Amazon ,or even if you can, check East Lakes website as well to compare prices shipping etc. I've referred quite a few people over the years and haven't heard any negative feedback about them. I have no connection. Just think its a good comparable product at a decent price. Glad the videos were of some help.
Should use demand drive fluid or Ive used synthetic ATF. Assuming your talking about the same year, make and model. But I have a hard time deviating from from the manufacturer recommended fluids.
It's all so confusing to me with all the bearings the seals the Rings the washers I should be able to do it but I know I'm going to need your help but I don't have anybody here and Indiana to help me I really like the bike so I think it's worth fixing
Hey there. Did you see all the other videos I've made? From what your saying I believe Ive covered a lot or most of that. Check out the others and if I haven't answered any of your questions in those feel free, absolutely, to let me know and Id be happy to try and help with anything that might be adding any additional challenge. Theirs a video that covers disassembly/assembly, and another that goes through the parts. And others. It looked like you may have unintentionally replied to your own comment. Your reply spoke about your left front tire. I couldn't respond to that one. But I got the gist of it. Hope its all helpful. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Its been a while but I believe I did in the Polaris Sportsman Front Hub Disassembly and Rear Seal Removal. That video is more specific to that. But to clarify. It should be 108 to 144 inch pounds.
Hey Eric, just servicing up my front hubs also for plow season in Ohio on a 2001 Sportsman 6x6, but hey great simple video, great to brush up on reminders!! Thank you awesome job, simple an on point!
Thanks for the kind words. Glad you found it helpful. Ive been keeping my eyes open for one of those. Ever since I watched one glide across some swampy muck and muddy boggy mountain slopes with ease where regular 4x4's wrestled a bit. Few on the market though, or least in the budget.
Your Videos are done so well. good info with very little rambling, thanks for taking the time!
Glad they've helped. Thanks for the feedback.
Clear, simple, easy going & logical video. Keep up the good work.
Joe from Trapper Creek
Thanks Joe. That's the goal. Most of all, of course, I hope it was helpful. Appreciate the feedback. You likely saw. But if not. There are a handful more there to peruse.
Brother. Im finding your videos utterly perfect, as I just bought a barn find 2001 400 with 600 miles on it. Keep up the good work. Eric in Alaska is an Encyclopedia of the Polaris sportsman, you should subscribe if you own one.
Well thank you. I will continue to chime in and contribute where I can.
Exactly what I was looking for and your right this is the only video on this specific topic
I didnt know it was the only one. I may have when I made it. That ones a few years old. But I guess it's good someone covered it then huh? Most , not all, but most of the stuff I do is prompted by a lack of finding it if Ive looked. Browse through the playlist a bit. You never know what you'll find.
@ Eric in Alaska, I just bought a 96 sportsman 500 and it needs a lot of work. Your videos and advice are amazing. Thanks 👍
Glad to be of some help. More to come.
Thanks for this. Will be doing this tomorrow. Will open all up and inspect as I am getting some weird wheel drag in 4x4.
Check this one out as well if you haven't already. ruclips.net/video/aB71Y7bt3Rk/видео.html Good luck.
@@ericinalaska7648 I did. Started to take apart my hub thinking it was going to be dry and to my surprise it had proper amount of oil although very dirty. Left it at that pending lower a arm bushing kit and tie rod kit arrival. perhaps will do a quick video of the All Balls Tie Rod Upgrade Kit. Meanwhile charging my battery as I have a feeling it may contribute to bad 4x4 experience as it is electric and we get no charge on low rpm. so battery state was at 11.7v Next project is to put lifepo4 battery, so trying to figure out if atv would charge it or if I need to keep acid battery and add lifepo4 in parallel
Just did my 2004 500 HO. Helpful set of videos. Thank you sir! Wouldn't mind the reassembly video, but probably too long ago now. Not too sure of the torque specs on the castle nuts so I winged it. Hopefully they'll be okay.
Glad to hear you've found them helpful. I did a disassembly video and you can just reverse the steps and I believe I covered torque in that as well.
ruclips.net/video/aB71Y7bt3Rk/видео.html is the link for that one. But for the year make and model Im working on in the video the torque instructions are as follows.
1. Torque spindle nut to 160-170 Inch lbs. (18-19 Nm). while rotating hub continuously.
2. Back off nut 1/2 turn.
3.Rotate axle several revolutions by raising rear of machine and rotating rear wheels with the machine in gear.
4.Re-torque hub nut to 108-144 inch lbs.(12-16.3 Nm)
5. Install cotter pin. If if cotter pin holes do not align . Tighten slightly to align and install pin. Do not exceed 144 inch lbs.
And then the rest of the assembly and refill of course. Cap fluid etc.
Quick and simple, explained well! Thanks for sharing!
You bet!
i was looking for how to do this so thank you for the video
Well there you go. Hope it helped.
Thanks for the video. Keep it up.
Thanks Tom.
Great videos!!!!!! Stay warm.
Thanks! Will do!
Love your videos very thorough and straight to the point. I didn’t hear what type of atf you use. Dexron 3 work? I got some sitting in the shop and I’m currently doing front axles.
Synthetic. I believe it's ATF+. Thats all I've ever used other than the Polaris brand fluid.
@@ericinalaska7648 10-4. Thank you sir.
@@seank4447 Absolutely.
Hey Eric. I replaced the seals and it’s still leaking. The new O rings and the inside seal that sits around the axle. Was wondering if you ever got yours to stop leaking? What did you do? Also I didn’t buy factory Polaris seals. Do you think that could be the problem?
I did get mine to stop leaking. So you replaced the o-rings in the cap, and both seals. The one behind the brake disk as well as the one on the strut? Can you tell the source of the leak. I cant imagine the o-rings being a problem. The Plug would be pretty obvious as well. So that leaves the two seals. All I can suggest is the same as I would do. Make sure the surfaces are undamaged. There is good contact. some oil or grease on the contact surfaces. Make sure things are spinning properly with proper torque. And there is no wobble or what would indicate something being bent or not seating correctly. Bearings good? And yes its always pos to have some after market parts that may not be up to snuff. I haven't personally run into it but now days when trying to find the cheapest option. That cheapest option can be cheap for a reason that can bite yah. Im not saying stay away from after market stuff. Just make sure you research the feedback a bit until you're comfortable that they'll get the job done. Not saying that's the issue for you but could be who knows.
Thank you for the great video and the useful info given and yes Polaris parts and fluids are definitely over priced. You have another subscriber as well.
Appreciate the feedback.
@@ericinalaska7648 what oil you use?
@@renegade9758 The manual recommends special polaris oil or ATF automatic transmission fluid. I use full synthetic. ATF+4. Hasn't failed me yet.
@@ericinalaska7648 good tanks IT for m'y friend .i have a can am atv 🥴
@@ericinalaska7648 what torq specs for front Axel and rear too please?
Great job. Subscribed and Liked. That parts supplier in FL would be helpful. I am in Mexico and have trouble sourcing parts at fair prices. Thanks again.
Hey Darrin. Thanks. Glad or hope it was of helpful. I looked up who I had ordered the axle's from and its a company called "East Lake Axle" I actually got them through Amazon but Im sure you can get them directly. Not sure which would be cheaper for you with shipping and all other considerations. Good Luck. And I don't know if you saw but I have a few other related videos as well.
@@ericinalaska7648 Yep, watched a couple others and bookmarked it in folders for reviewing in the future. It may also help bring in more traffic. I have three Polaris quads and a Tomcar TM4 which need lots of maintenance and I am starting to "wrench every day" now. Your channel is quite helpful. I wish I had found it a week earlier. Could have saved me a bunch of work on my Sportsman 400 from hub and cv boot.
Keep up the good work and look us up if you ever get South of the Border.
TomCar. Ive been spending a bit of time in AZ and I keep coming across those. Wasn't really aware of those before. How do you like those? Plus's, minus's? They look like they'd be fun but not knowing much about them I was a little apprehensive. As far as repairs and parts availability etc.
@@ericinalaska7648 TomCar is an interesting concept and company. Like Polaris, they have military sales. Unlike Polaris, they are built on a true industrial scale in relationship to the frame and A arms. 15" standard clearance with an aircraft aluminum protective underlayment. The 2 seater can carry a standard payload of well over a ton short distances. They are 2 wheel drive, but can keep up with Razors and the like with wheel travel also of 15" and locking differential and portal axles. Mine is 2006 and is a 4 seater. It has a 3 cyl. Diahatsu 1 liter (DMG-950) motor rated at 28 HP. The new ones have 1.5 liter 4 cyl. engines with I believe 85 HP. Word from factory technician is that I can pick up a nearly "new" 2017 or 2018 unit with under 200 hrs. for about 1/2 price because (secret) they are about to introduce a true 4 x 4 version. Things are about to get real interesting. Email me at mexicoecoresort@gmail.com and I can share much, much more.
@@ericinalaska7648 Arizona you say. I am just South in Sonora. 4 hrs South of the Border in San Carlos. The President is here this week. Love to have you come down and visit. I need a good mechanic to rebuild the motor on the TomCar, parts are available at any Briggs and Stratton dealer. I am going to "try" to reassemble the front hub unit tomorrow after repacking grease on new cv boot. I also need to reinstall the brake calipers, and reconnect steering arm, and then re-install all the body panels. I had to remove all the plastic to rust proof the frame and reinstall steering column base bearings and upper steering bracket bushing. Discovered both A arms were bent, one badly and needed to straighten those and install new spacer bushing and re-grease inner core. One was bent so badly, it was a miracle it was operating so well.
I have a 1996. Your numerous instructional videos have been awesome. My problem is the drain plug in the front left tub is super tight. I have used deep creep penetrating oil. I have started to twist my Allen wrench. I’m nervous that I might not get it out without stripping it. Any suggestions?
Thanks
My instinct is it maybe got over cranked some where along the way. Or is it rusty? Penetrating oil soak it really good overnight or more if you have the time. And have at it. If it does strip worse case scenario if your comfortable with it you could always drill and tap it the next cap screw size up. If it strips. Id be surprised if it didn't let loose with persistence though. Thats a decent sized Allen wrench. And there relatively cheap. Al long as the the wrench is a good fit and the hole isn't buggered up or stripped out.I believe it'll give. If the Allen wrench brakes Id think you could get the pc out and attempt again with another. Also maybe a Allen bit in a ratchet or even a impact? Thats how Id come at it anyway. Thanks for the appreciation of the efforts.
I am having the same issue on a ‘95 Magnum. How did you resolve the issue?
@@michaelmilani4387
So I let it soak a bit, I used a touch of heat around the plug, tapped just a touch and finally made sure it was a new wrench. I put my adjustable pliers on the end and prayed!
It let loose! I do have a friend who has an impact tool that you tap with a hammer but didn’t need too.
Good luck!
Eric
Thanks for very helpful videos
Can you put info for battery drainage
Thanks again
Saeed
Are you referring to battery loosing its charge or?
Great channel my man, thanks.
I appreciate that!
Thanks for the help , just picked up a 1999 sportsman 500 like urs ,, watching ur videos have really helped ,,,, did U say that if ur speedometer doesn’t work that ur 4 wheel drove won’t work or did I hear wrong
Glad your finding the videos to be of help. Yes if the speedometer doesn't work it CAN, depending on the issue, can effect the AWD. But if your speedo isn't working it doesn't necessarily mean your AWD won't work and vice versa. A bad cable/speed sensor can cause for example no speed indication but everything else can work. Im not sure if your referencing the "Prepairing to go through it" video.ruclips.net/video/lO1SljA22sg/видео.html. or the speedometer repair video.ruclips.net/video/ADNyJ5sx83o/видео.html But the speedometer repair video covers quite a bit about that if you haven't seen that one. Thanks for the support.
To replace this oil for maintenance purposes would you drain the old fluid out of that same hole? Then refill ?
Id take the end cap off also. Better draining and it allows you to see if there is any grit or sign of ware. Then put the cap back on and refill through the plug hole. Do you have to? No. But I do. It only adds a few minutes to the job and gives you a better assessment of the oil coming out and perhaps grit that may not. I have been raising one side, the opposite side, of the machine and removing the cap to drain. Then the other side.
Thanks for the video. I just picked up a ‘95 Magnum 4x4 and tried to replace the lubricant but found that an Allen wrench snapped off in one of the set screws and it was then ground down flush. The other one is very tight so I hesitate to torque down on it to get it out. I was considering jacking up the left side of the machine to a 45 angle and pulling the cap, removing the oil with suction, inserting 40cc of oil and replacing the cap. Then repeat on the right side. Do you think that might work or do you see a problem based on the design of the internals? Thanks
You could just leave it on all fours to pull the cap(s) and drain them. Then raise one side to refill with the appropriate amount. And repeat.Once you drain the fluid out. Look into the hub with a light and see if you can see the tip of the screw poking through. And if it looks right or anything you can grab. I would be obsessing with addressing the set screw(s) though eventually. Stuff like that stays with me until I fix it. Id be surprised if you couldn't get the other one out. Some one must have maybe had a leak they tried to fix by cranking it tight and it broke? They usually just need to be cracked/broke loose to remove them. Maybe some penetrating oil over night. I haven't ever had or seen one break trying to remove one though. Just make sure you have a good clean, not rounded. Properly fitting Allen wrench. Not one that's close, but a good fit. And it should come out. Does the broken one have anything left to get an Allen wrench in? If not I can't help but wonder if maybe someone substituted another bolt and ground it down. If so. An Easy out or drilling it as big as you can with out damaging the threads on the hub is an option..If I were doing it Id take the hub off. I know that's a bit more of a commitment than just changing your fluid. But The more you do it the more you understand what's all going on in there and the easier it is every time. The screws just kind of bottom out at the leading edge or some may be a tapered thread but either way its pressure creating a seal and usually unless they've been run bone dry and neglected some fluid would have been on the threads last time in and out. But they commonly will brake free. With a bit of resistance. And the bonus of fixing them is you don't have to be so creative in the future and it won't be such a deterrent to keeping on the maintenance. You certainly can do it the way you suggest though. Just make sure you have it raised enough that it will take the recommended amount without spilling out. And don't overfill. They put the drain plugs/set screws in there to make it easier. But same end goal.
@@ericinalaska7648 ok, thanks for the comments. Let me try the work around method as a stop gap and then I will revisit a longer term solution.
@@michaelmilani4387 Just all food for thought. I can certainly see the alternate method working just fine and in a pinch prob do the same.
Hi Eric, Really appreciate your videos. They are easy to understand and follow. Do you happen to have one showing an oil change in your Polaris? I looked at some of your other videos and did not see one.
Hey Dan. Thanks for the feedback. I don't currently have an oil change video. I usually make them on stuffI haven't seen out there already to fill a gap on something not covered or maybe add some info to something covered but missed a few things that may be helpful.. I thought about making one but Im willing to bet a search would yield a few. Do you have a specific question regarding that or anything I may be able to help with? If you've searched and maybe haven't found your exact year, Id be willing to bet you'll find one with similar enough design that it'll get you through it. Let me know If I can help.
Hey there Dan. A few months ago you inquired about if I had made an oil change on a Polaris video. I now have done so. Its actually A pretty Deep dive and maybe more than you were needing but I think whatever level of info your looking for It should cover it. If your still interested the link is. ruclips.net/video/B9KhYMiWgeY/видео.html. "Polaris COMPLETE oil change & Much More. DEEP DIVE."
What was the torque spec on the axle nut please
Manual indicates for initial bearing adjustment to torque to 160-170 INCH lbs. Notice not foot lbs. While rotating hub continuously. Then back off nut 1/2 turn. Then retorque to 108 - 144 inch lbs. and adjust as needed to align hole for cotter pin but do not exceed 144 inch lbs. It's been a few years but I think I babble about that in the video. If not this one, its additional info in another.
Where do you get the allen screws at? Mine stripped out
You should be able to find them at just about any hardware store Id think. You of course need to know what size you need. When you say stripped out do you mean the part the Allen wrench go's in or the threads? Im assuming the Allen wrench part. Just take it with you to a place that sells nuts and bolts etc and match it. Or ... Im sure a Polaris shop would love to sell you one for a bit of a markup but it would be nothing special other the price. But I know Home Depot and Lowes has some bins /drawers with less common stuff like that. Well may less commonly sold there anyway. And usually on one of the posts in the screw/nuts/bolts isle that have a thing hanging that you can mate your part up to to identify the proper size. Otherwise maybe a fasteners type store that specializes in fasteners.. Or nuts bolts screws etc. Id almost think if you went in one of those they'd just say here. Because it wouldn't be worth wringing up one pc. Hope that helps.
Hey I’ve been watching your videos lately I’ve got Polaris project machine and I have fluid leaking from my hub. The O ring on the cap has been replaced and not leaking from there anymore but now it’s leaking from infront of the disk break thing.. where would the seal be ? Inside the strut ? Or In back of the hub?
There is a seal behind the disc and one on the back of the strut. If you take your hub off. Then remove the disc. You will see it. That sounds like what you're describing. Then after removing the old one. You press the new one in with the disc. As you replace the bolts and draw it back down into position it will press the new seal in. Do it evenly of course. Alternating between bolts to press it in straight.
@@ericinalaska7648 thank you very much !
@@colt0864 No problem. Anytime.
Hi Eric...good videos. I also am in Alaska living in Fairbanks. Whenever I go to fill mine it leaks out so I'm guessing the seals need replaced on mine. I noticed you did an entire video on the front hub and all the parts associated with that. Is there a kit you can buy that has all that in it? Links to the parts you use would be really helpful. Thanks in advance
Hey Taylor. Other than the seals, I used all my existing parts. I guess that's why I didn't mention any sources. The seals I just picked up at the local Polaris shop. I buy shafts\hub assemblies from a place called Eastlake Axle. They also have some bearing and seal kits. I have had great results using the shafts\axles and so have some of my friends Ive recommended them to. The bearing and seal kits look reasonably priced as well but I have no experience with theres. However, If I needed one. I wouldn't hesitate to buy one from them. I have no connection with them Ive just been pleased with the stuff Ive gotten as well as pleased with the price. You can find their stuff on Amazon and of course covers shipping.Or you can get it direct from Eastlake Axle. If you go direct to the website they have free 2 day shipping I believe for orders over $62. Heres the links. www.eastlakeaxle.com.
Do you grease any of the bearings, or does the type F fluid take care of all the bearings?
Hey Dave. Sorry for the delayed reply. I was traveling. I don't grease any of the parts. Just fill the hub as described and the Fluid will circulate as needed. You shouldn't see any sign of any grease when you take it apart. I wouldn't think. I never had anyway. I just wipe everything down and look everything over to make sure there isn't any abrasive debris or anything and you should be good.
Hi Eric I just bought a 2005 500cc Polaris Scrambler and I noticed after I brought her home yesterday that it was not disengaging on the left front wheel I call it the left front wheel when I'm sitting on the bike so I took it apart to see what was going on and just all kinds of shavings and oh my goodness tha Armature ring was bet in several places I don't know if I'm going to have to replace the whole strut Tower housing and all the bearings I might need your help with this I'm going to go ahead and order the bearing kit and seals then also comes with the Armature ring and hopefully I don't have to buy the whole strut Tower housing cuz it may be chewed up and not usable this video really helped me a lot
Thanks for the video brother🙂
You bet. Sounds like it helped. If your looking for any other stuff there are many other videos on the channel as well. If you dint already discover that. Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks again. Any helpful tips are appreciated. Any future work you do if you don’t mind videoing it I’ll probably need it someday.
Appreciate the feedback. Just trying to fill a void. I had trouble finding anything specific to what I was doing so I thought Id video it. Hopefully its helpful to a few people.
I do have more videos Im working on. And plan to make more. Keep checkin in.
Would love to know the address where you bought your axles
This is an Amazon link to them. If you have a different yr/mk/mdl of course you'd need different ones but easily searchable once you're there. amzn.to/3tV7lc2
Eastlake is the brand. Hope that helps.
Do you think boat lower unit oil would work in this application?
I haven't heard of anyone doing that. You'd have to research that a bit Id think to see if they're comparable. I wouldn't know off hand.
Спасибо за видео. Какая вязкость трансмиссионное масло ?
The manual recommends special polaris oil or ATF automatic transmission fluid. I use full synthetic. ATF+4
В руководстве рекомендуется специальное масло для поляризатора или жидкость для автоматической трансмиссии ATF. Я использую полную синтетику. АТФ + 4
V rukovodstve rekomenduyetsya spetsial'noye maslo dlya polyarizatora ili zhidkost' dlya avtomaticheskoy transmissii ATF. YA ispol'zuyu polnuyu sintetiku. ATF + 4
Would love to have the name other place in Florida that you ordered your parts from. I'm having some of the same issues and watch your videos and he helped me out a lot.
East Lake is the name. Also available on Amazon. But if you can't find your specific part on Amazon ,or even if you can, check East Lakes website as well to compare prices shipping etc. I've referred quite a few people over the years and haven't heard any negative feedback about them. I have no connection. Just think its a good comparable product at a decent price. Glad the videos were of some help.
nice job
Glad you found it of use. Lots more on the channel. Thanks for the feedback.
Will differential fluid work
Should use demand drive fluid or Ive used synthetic ATF. Assuming your talking about the same year, make and model. But I have a hard time deviating from from the manufacturer recommended fluids.
Whats the place u got the front axle from thanks
Here's the link for the replacement Axles Front L/R I've used. amzn.to/3qLX6ma
Confirm your year, make and model or search for yours.
Thanks buddy god bless
Thanks. You too.
Did u say you used automatic transmission fluid?
Synthetic. Yes.I also discuss that a bit in one of the other videos you watched regarding the fluids. One of the few I'll substitute.
Thanks
No problem
It's all so confusing to me with all the bearings the seals the Rings the washers I should be able to do it but I know I'm going to need your help but I don't have anybody here and Indiana to help me I really like the bike so I think it's worth fixing
Hey there. Did you see all the other videos I've made? From what your saying I believe Ive covered a lot or most of that. Check out the others and if I haven't answered any of your questions in those feel free, absolutely, to let me know and Id be happy to try and help with anything that might be adding any additional challenge. Theirs a video that covers disassembly/assembly, and another that goes through the parts. And others. It looked like you may have unintentionally replied to your own comment. Your reply spoke about your left front tire. I couldn't respond to that one. But I got the gist of it. Hope its all helpful. Let me know if you have any other questions.
You did not mention the torque on the axle nut
Its been a while but I believe I did in the Polaris Sportsman Front Hub Disassembly and Rear Seal Removal. That video is more specific to that. But to clarify. It should be 108 to 144 inch pounds.