Thank you thank you thank you, I can't tell you how much you have helped me. I went from knowing nothing about working on my sportsman to do everything myself! you've saved me so much time and money and helped me do something that is so much fun! Your videos are very well put together and very detailed.
You are very welcome! Thats the goal. It just takes a little getting familiar and most of it is really doable on your own. And the more you do the easier other things become and make sense. I find that true of many things if you take the time. The reward of doing it yourself and not to mention the savings. Well worth the time IMO. Glad you've found them helpful. More to come. Things have been running well since my last one and tend to do videos as the need for a repair arrises. But you can always count on repairs. Just part of it.
So true ! This channel (and others on the same subject) are *GOLD* mines of practical knowledge. A few years back I was reluctant of working on my machines not knowing if I could put em back together and generally despised any mechanical work because I did not knew what I was doing. This year my old 98 broke far from town into the woods and I managed to do field repairs. Now I'm able to confidently go further alone on trails, knowing some of the basics really helps with your confidence. Think of the long run I've took since then 😁👍 thanks to these videos !
My daughter just picked up one of these. I need to help her do almost everything you’ve done in all your videos. Just sat here for 2 hrs watching about 8 of them! Really helpful. Thanks from Detroit.
Thx 4 video. I replaced the cylinder and found another post which said to keep the pedal depressed overnight to remove air from cylinder. It worked for me. After that, I bled the brakes. Thx
Great video, i have a 1999 Polaris 400 Explorer and i had it in a shop. They changed master cylinder and the brake piston, still no rear brake. I have front,but not the rear. They gave up and said it was probally the brake piston, but i cannot find one for my machine. I'm going to try your directions on bleeding the system, hopefully i can get somewhere. Again appreciate your video on older machines, it is hard to find parts and reliable service on these units. Thx Cliff
I can usually have pretty good luck on Amazon finding older parts. I think I have a link in the description of the video. How do your rear pads look? Get so you can apply the brake and see if they're moving. If they're moving but just not grabbing. Maybe your pads are just excessively worn.
@@ericinalaska7648 Thx for the quick reply, i'll check them later. Its in the back of my shed. I believe they had replaced pads also, or at least that's what they told me. Again i really appreciate your responses Cliff
I have a very similar situation with my new to me 1999 Polaris Sportsman 500. Pressing the foot break easily goes to the floor. I'm assuming the foot break for the rear break is not working. Does the rear break stop both wheels or is an axle stop. I'll go out and try the foot break while moving and see what happens and report back. I've never had an ATV with engine breaking - love it - so haven't tested the breaks really at all. Small break fluid reservoir has some fluid and at the minimum. .... OK couldn't wait. Not exactly sure how to test rear breaks on ATV with engine breaking. Found a fairly steep shoulder to a dirt road and idled over the shoulder straight down and rather than continuing my Polaris did stop.... Somewhat casually. Foot break seems incredibly awkward to use. When would we use the rest foot break if the hand break breaks front and back. Basically the only time I've used the hand break is mostly for a parking break. After you filled the rear break fluid haw did the action of the foot break pedal change? Thanks
The rear if you look at it is a disk brake. On one side. If the pedal goes to to even through the floor as we say and doesn't seem to grab. Check the fluid level. Fill or top off if needed. Bleeding will remove any air and stiffen the pedal up. Yes the pedal only does the rear. The hand lever usually does all. And some models have a separate front. Imagine going forward down a steep incline. The rears only can come in handy in this example to eliminate any front end drop or nose dive. After filling as mentioned bleeding will change the action. Or stiffen it up. As you bleed it. make sure you're not letting the reservoir empty and draw in more air or you get to start over. Hope that helps.
I did change the rear rotor and pads. The caliper works but the foot pedal quit about 14 years ago (Dad knew it, but didn't care..... he never used it..... lol). I haven't investigated it yet, but will do in the immediate future. I will keep you advised. I also have soft front breaks. I am adding new rotors and pads then bleed the system to hopefully rectify the issue.
@@brianminock3322 Sounds like you're on the right track. There really are only a few parts. Brake lever and that master cylinder . The pedal and its brake cylinder. the front and rear calipers and pads and of course the discs. And all the lines in between. It can really only be bad parts, broken of froze up or leaks or air in the lines. Just takes a little time effort and process of elimination.
Hello Eric, I have a 1997 Sportsmen 500 with 22,000 + miles on it and she's all original!. Amazing, just amazing and a beast. It was my fathers retirement toy (he bought it new in 1997) and he used it every single day until his passing. He gave me the machine and I have cherished it! I plowed snow for 5 hours with it last winter and zero problems. But, I am replacing all wheel bearings and seals front and back. I did notice a lot of movement on the splines (up down left right) on the front differential and in the main shaft that transfers the power to the diff. Is there supposed to be movement at that area? Please advise? Thank you.
22,000? Wow! I would expect a little movement of course but not sloppy. Really kind of a judgment call if you think it'll lead to any other issues or failures. Shafts are a pretty simple swap but you'd also have to evaluate the ware in the receiving or mating part. New splines would of course fit a bit better and hopefully eliminate a bit of that but then theirs the ware on the mating part. Im not sure if you've discovered any of the other videos but in the description of the "Polaris Sportsman Front Hub Disassembly and Rear Seal Removal" video I have a link for replacement Axles. Here it is. Front L/R used and more. amzn.to/3qLX6ma Confirm your year, make and model or search for yours.
Hello, Thank you for the quick response . My thoughts are the same as yours. I will pull the shaft today and determine my next steps, will keep you informed. Thanks again.
Thanks for your video was very helpfull. My mates brakes on his polaris farm quad are bearly working. Next to no brake fluid, he was told dishwashing detergent was a last resort he shouldnt had but he did. Would he bleed it out just like brake fluid and just top up with brake fluid. The things we do lol
I personally would flush it best I could and replace with brake fluid. Id also try to determine if there are any leaks of course that caused it to have next to no fluid. You'd have to bleed each location. Front and back. and keep topping off the reservoir. You want to start with the furthest from the reservoir but to get the soap out Id probably start furthest away until I see clean fluid. Then up front until same. And then maybe repeat furthest to closest for peace of mind. The issue with fluid substitutions is similar to having air in the line. Air in the line, or in this case soap, does not respond to temp changes the same as brake fluid. As brake fluid heats up it remains relatively stable creating a somewhat consistent force to the brakes. Air and soap and other will not. Soap or detergent can also freeze. Brake fluid does not. People are more familiar with car brakes usually. A simple example most are familiar with is a firm or hard brake pedal vs. a soft or spongy brake pedal. If you have a little air in your lines you may notice they feel pretty good , firm, the first few uses especially in cold weather. Then as you use them more and things warm up they get softer or spongey. In a case with very low or no fluid and its just air. Nothing. No brakes. And if detergent or any other fluid is used its much more vulnerable to temp changes than brake fluid. Hot and cold. Freezing even. In a pinch some times you have to Macgyver stuff to get to a more permanent solution.
@@ericinalaska7648 thanks alot for your intelligence so much appreciated. You'vre totally cleared my grief up. I'm about to open a can of mc gyver on this situation and follow your lead and see what becomes of the task after i recover from New years celebrations. I'm long over due of becoming mechanically minded its differently on my bucket list. Ill let you know how it goes I'm excited and thanks again 👊
@@tonesncreww1998 Good deal. The more you do the more things start to make sense. Let me know if you have any questions. I don't have all the answers but I can do my best to try to help.
Hello Eric, I have a question about the rear brake caliper on the 99 500 Sportsman. Are there supposed to be any "pistons" in the the caliper itself. Urgent requests because I have my rear assembly completely apart.
Sorry about the delay. Was out clearing some trees. There is a piston in the brake cylinder for the rear brake. And usually 2 in he caliper. One on each side or half. When you step on the pedal its depressing a piston or at least that's what I call it. That then causes the caliper to squeeze the pads. Is that the part you're referring to? Or are you asking about the brake caliper itself at the pads? When you say calipers thats what I see. What is It you're trying to work out? Maybe I can understand better and give a better answer.
@@waltereldridge9447 I was thinking about and reread your question. Did you remove and separate the caliper? You were asking about "pistons" in the caliper. There will usually be 2 in the caliper. Also some seals. I guess I got the impression you were having an issue with the function of something. And was having trouble understanding from the question. But your question was pretty straight forward. I guess I could have just said "Yes" Did you get it sorted out?
@@ericinalaska7648 yes I did, I took the entire rear brake assembly apart, freeing up the lines, fittings, bleeders and caliper. I definitely need brakes for sure and possibly the rear master cylinder. Then I'll have to bleed the entire rear brakes.
@@waltereldridge9447 You'll notice when you separate the two halves of the caliper. There will be O'rings as well. Not the seals in the piston but they create a seal for the channels between the two halves. I don't know that Ive ever seen those go bad but since or if its apart still it can't hurt to replace those as well. And when bolting the caliper back together the proper torque is about 18 ft lbs.
My 98 model needed a complete oil change so I washed it real good before. At about the same time I noticed the breaks (rear) stopped working they where fine just before. Can this be related to the fact I washed it ? Can these things jam or do I have to put a new brake assy ?
When you say stopped working. You mean didnt grab as good? Or sloppy hand brake and pedal? If they just didnt grab as well and things are still wet. See how it is after things dry out. Unless your parts are in an advanced state of decay. I can't imagine washing it doing anything unless you were to blast a hole in a line or disconnect something already on the verge of coming apart or something with a super high power pressure washer. Highly unlikely. Check your fluid. Handle bar and under the set]at reservoir and go from there.
@@ericinalaska7648 The hand brake does his job very well but the pedal brake don't do nothing. This model seems to have the same reservoir for the two brakes (no reservoir under the seat). Also there is no master cylinder outside the brake, the pedal is pulling direct to the brake with a metal rod. The reservoir at the steering if full. I checked if there is oil reaching the rear by unscrewing the bleeder screw just enough to see oil was leaking, everything seems fine. Got no visible leakeage of oil. It just stopped working all of a sudden, I can't be sure if it's open or closed but when I ride my ATV i don't feel any restriction so I will take a guess and say it "jammed" wide open. Is there something else I should check before I order a new brake assy ?
@@mr.octopus6972 Hmmm. I don't have a clear picture in my head to fairly rattle off the mechanics of that set up. But My instinct is that if all the linkage is good and connected and undamaged. And things seem to be moving appropriately when stepping on the pedal. How are the pads? And you mentioned the bleeder screw. Is that being feed from the front handlebar reservoir? Could there be air in the line? Your brakes will respond or not respond differently with air in the line vs. brake fluid. I'll try to find some info on that set up and see if I can offer more. But If it was me. I'd take the caliper off and look at the pads etc. Maybe you have already and Im a step behind you. Let me know.
@@ericinalaska7648 It took me several days to figure out that I have a 96-97 rear brake model on my 98. They are fairly different. I don't know why, my guess is they put these on the earlier batch (?) I measured the holes and checked the pedal. It is impossible to fit a 98+ rear brake without heavy midifications. The 98+ brakes are widely available and cheap but I have had trouble finding 96-97. So far I found expensive second hand on ebay and some repair kits from the UK. Let me know if you know where I could find these brand new or for a fair price (i'm in canada).
Do your brakes work though? When theirs air in a line they tend to be a little spongy. Is the pedal up at rest or down at rest? And is the piston out or in? And is there fluid in the reservoir? Thats the main things Id look at if it was in front of me.
Id say a few ways. Leaky, sloppy or does not return to the decompressed position. Meaning returning the foot pedal to the upward or ready position. How ever, if you have a leak or malfunction down the line. Or at the caliper for example Id start with repairing that and work my way back from there as needed. Those down the line failures could cause the master to seem as though it's not functioning properly. Hope that helps.
Glad it was helpful. Not to shamelessly promote but you may find this one interesting. ruclips.net/video/B9KhYMiWgeY/видео.html It's a bit long and my latest. "Polaris Sportsman COMPLETE oil change and much more DEEP DIVE" And of course there are many more. Other topics as well. Thanks for the feedback.
@@ericinalaska7648 Yep.! I binge watched your entire Polaris playlist today! Very well done! I always do the crankcase but never pull the filter out because I have never wanted to deal with priming the pump. Next spring i think i will... Also, I thought I might have a bad rear master cylinder but now I cant wait to see if it is just air in the line. Thanks again!
@@ericinalaska7648 I bleed the foot brake after installing a new rear master cylinder but I get no pressure from the pedal. No leaks either. I read that of the rear pads are worn enough the calliper piston is bottoming out and you wont be able to build pressure to bleed. My pads are really worn so thats next on the list.
I did. In this case it was due to a complete lack of fluid. The reservoir was completely empty so anytime you try to use the brakes in that case its just sucking in or moving air. Refiled it and had to work the air out of the line by bleeding it out as demonstrated. It was like that , empty, when I acquired the ATV. And expected to find a leak or other issue. Bad brake cylinder. Something. But I think the reservoir was simply in a bad position and aloud spilling or leaking over time. Since I repositioned it and refilled it and bled the line, Ive had no issues.
Is it the one with like a hand pump? I had done my truck using one of those. If that's what you're talking about. It is handy for sure. And would certainly be helpful for this if yo can't reach your brake pedal and or lever.
@@ericinalaska7648 auto zone has it it's a one man bleeders. U got a hose inside a cantaner when u pump it fills up past the hose bubbles go up and fluid comes in . auto zone .one man bleeder ..they are nice when u have no help .
Thank you thank you thank you, I can't tell you how much you have helped me. I went from knowing nothing about working on my sportsman to do everything myself! you've saved me so much time and money and helped me do something that is so much fun! Your videos are very well put together and very detailed.
You are very welcome! Thats the goal. It just takes a little getting familiar and most of it is really doable on your own. And the more you do the easier other things become and make sense. I find that true of many things if you take the time. The reward of doing it yourself and not to mention the savings. Well worth the time IMO. Glad you've found them helpful. More to come. Things have been running well since my last one and tend to do videos as the need for a repair arrises. But you can always count on repairs. Just part of it.
So true !
This channel (and others on the same subject) are *GOLD* mines of practical knowledge.
A few years back I was reluctant of working on my machines not knowing if I could put em back together and generally despised any mechanical work because I did not knew what I was doing.
This year my old 98 broke far from town into the woods and I managed to do field repairs.
Now I'm able to confidently go further alone on trails, knowing some of the basics really helps with your confidence.
Think of the long run I've took since then 😁👍 thanks to these videos !
My daughter just picked up one of these. I need to help her do almost everything you’ve done in all your videos. Just sat here for 2 hrs watching about 8 of them! Really helpful. Thanks from Detroit.
Glad to hear it. Best of luck with the project. Doing a little homework prior always makes things a bit easier and less of a mystery. Thats for sure.
So hard to find a video on these old ATVs. You saved me when it came to brake flushing my 2005 Polaris, THANK YOU!!!!!
Great to hear. You are welcome. More to come.
Thanks, a bunch for sharing, I'm glad that I can use this when bleeding my brakes. 😊👍
Anytime.
Thx 4 video. I replaced the cylinder and found another post which said to keep the pedal depressed overnight to remove air from cylinder. It worked for me. After that, I bled the brakes. Thx
Good additional info. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. This is my next project along with replacing the brakes.
Glad to hear it helped. Thanks for watching.
Nice job. Thanks. I feel like I can check my brakes after watching this.
Thank you.
Thank you for the video, I have a 2001 HO and it’s nice to see this!
You're welcome! Glad you found it of use. Thanks for the feedback.
Great video, i have a 1999 Polaris 400 Explorer and i had it in a shop. They changed master cylinder and the brake piston, still no rear brake. I have front,but not the rear. They gave up and said it was probally the brake piston, but i cannot find one for my machine.
I'm going to try your directions on bleeding the system, hopefully i can get somewhere.
Again appreciate your video on older machines, it is hard to find parts and reliable service on these units.
Thx Cliff
I can usually have pretty good luck on Amazon finding older parts. I think I have a link in the description of the video. How do your rear pads look? Get so you can apply the brake and see if they're moving. If they're moving but just not grabbing. Maybe your pads are just excessively worn.
@@ericinalaska7648 Thx for the quick reply, i'll check them later. Its in the back of my shed. I believe they had replaced pads also, or at least that's what they told me.
Again i really appreciate your responses
Cliff
@@cliff6490 No problem.
Thank you for the information I just got one my self and this will help a lot
Fantastic, glad it helped. Appreciate the support and feedback.
I have a very similar situation with my new to me 1999 Polaris Sportsman 500.
Pressing the foot break easily goes to the floor. I'm assuming the foot break for the rear break is not working. Does the rear break stop both wheels or is an axle stop.
I'll go out and try the foot break while moving and see what happens and report back.
I've never had an ATV with engine breaking - love it - so haven't tested the breaks really at all.
Small break fluid reservoir has some fluid and at the minimum.
.... OK couldn't wait. Not exactly sure how to test rear breaks on ATV with engine breaking. Found a fairly steep shoulder to a dirt road and idled over the shoulder straight down and rather than continuing my Polaris did stop.... Somewhat casually. Foot break seems incredibly awkward to use. When would we use the rest foot break if the hand break breaks front and back. Basically the only time I've used the hand break is mostly for a parking break.
After you filled the rear break fluid haw did the action of the foot break pedal change?
Thanks
The rear if you look at it is a disk brake. On one side. If the pedal goes to to even through the floor as we say and doesn't seem to grab. Check the fluid level. Fill or top off if needed. Bleeding will remove any air and stiffen the pedal up. Yes the pedal only does the rear. The hand lever usually does all. And some models have a separate front. Imagine going forward down a steep incline. The rears only can come in handy in this example to eliminate any front end drop or nose dive. After filling as mentioned bleeding will change the action. Or stiffen it up. As you bleed it. make sure you're not letting the reservoir empty and draw in more air or you get to start over. Hope that helps.
Thanks Eric,,, good video.. I have a 2010 but I get the jest of the bleeding now...
Good deal. And good luck.
Nice job, I’ve watched several of your vids.
Thanks. I appreciate that!
Oh, by the way. The back breaks on my machine don't work either. I'll do as you showed and I'll get back at ya! Thank you for the info....... TBD
Also check the pads if all else seems good. With that much use Id be shocked if they weren't worn down beyond usefulness.
@@ericinalaska7648
I did change the rear rotor and pads. The caliper works but the foot pedal quit about 14 years ago (Dad knew it, but didn't care..... he never used it..... lol). I haven't investigated it yet, but will do in the immediate future. I will keep you advised. I also have soft front breaks. I am adding new rotors and pads then bleed the system to hopefully rectify the issue.
@@brianminock3322 Sounds like you're on the right track. There really are only a few parts. Brake lever and that master cylinder . The pedal and its brake cylinder. the front and rear calipers and pads and of course the discs. And all the lines in between. It can really only be bad parts, broken of froze up or leaks or air in the lines. Just takes a little time effort and process of elimination.
Hello Eric, I have a 1997 Sportsmen 500 with 22,000 + miles on it and she's all original!. Amazing, just amazing and a beast. It was my fathers retirement toy (he bought it new in 1997) and he used it every single day until his passing. He gave me the machine and I have cherished it! I plowed snow for 5 hours with it last winter and zero problems. But, I am replacing all wheel bearings and seals front and back. I did notice a lot of movement on the splines (up down left right) on the front differential and in the main shaft that transfers the power to the diff. Is there supposed to be movement at that area? Please advise? Thank you.
22,000? Wow! I would expect a little movement of course but not sloppy. Really kind of a judgment call if you think it'll lead to any other issues or failures. Shafts are a pretty simple swap but you'd also have to evaluate the ware in the receiving or mating part. New splines would of course fit a bit better and hopefully eliminate a bit of that but then theirs the ware on the mating part. Im not sure if you've discovered any of the other videos but in the description of the "Polaris Sportsman Front Hub Disassembly and Rear Seal Removal" video I have a link for replacement Axles. Here it is. Front L/R used and more. amzn.to/3qLX6ma
Confirm your year, make and model or search for yours.
@@ericinalaska7648
Hello, Thank you for the quick response
. My thoughts are the same as yours. I will pull the shaft today and determine my next steps, will keep you informed. Thanks again.
Thanks for your video was very helpfull. My mates brakes on his polaris farm quad are bearly working. Next to no brake fluid, he was told dishwashing detergent was a last resort he shouldnt had but he did. Would he bleed it out just like brake fluid and just top up with brake fluid. The things we do lol
I personally would flush it best I could and replace with brake fluid. Id also try to determine if there are any leaks of course that caused it to have next to no fluid. You'd have to bleed each location. Front and back. and keep topping off the reservoir. You want to start with the furthest from the reservoir but to get the soap out Id probably start furthest away until I see clean fluid. Then up front until same. And then maybe repeat furthest to closest for peace of mind. The issue with fluid substitutions is similar to having air in the line. Air in the line, or in this case soap, does not respond to temp changes the same as brake fluid. As brake fluid heats up it remains relatively stable creating a somewhat consistent force to the brakes. Air and soap and other will not. Soap or detergent can also freeze. Brake fluid does not. People are more familiar with car brakes usually. A simple example most are familiar with is a firm or hard brake pedal vs. a soft or spongy brake pedal. If you have a little air in your lines you may notice they feel pretty good , firm, the first few uses especially in cold weather. Then as you use them more and things warm up they get softer or spongey. In a case with very low or no fluid and its just air. Nothing. No brakes. And if detergent or any other fluid is used its much more vulnerable to temp changes than brake fluid. Hot and cold. Freezing even. In a pinch some times you have to Macgyver stuff to get to a more permanent solution.
@@ericinalaska7648 thanks alot for your intelligence so much appreciated. You'vre totally cleared my grief up. I'm about to open a can of mc gyver on this situation and follow your lead and see what becomes of the task after i recover from New years celebrations. I'm long over due of becoming mechanically minded its differently on my bucket list. Ill let you know how it goes I'm excited and thanks again 👊
@@tonesncreww1998 Good deal. The more you do the more things start to make sense. Let me know if you have any questions. I don't have all the answers but I can do my best to try to help.
Hello Eric, I have a question about the rear brake caliper on the 99 500 Sportsman. Are there supposed to be any "pistons" in the the caliper itself. Urgent requests because I have my rear assembly completely apart.
Sorry about the delay. Was out clearing some trees. There is a piston in the brake cylinder for the rear brake. And usually 2 in he caliper. One on each side or half. When you step on the pedal its depressing a piston or at least that's what I call it. That then causes the caliper to squeeze the pads. Is that the part you're referring to? Or are you asking about the brake caliper itself at the pads? When you say calipers thats what I see. What is It you're trying to work out? Maybe I can understand better and give a better answer.
@@ericinalaska7648 okay Eric that's exactly what I was wondering. Now I have to buy a set of rear pads and put it all back together. 🙃
@@waltereldridge9447 I was thinking about and reread your question. Did you remove and separate the caliper? You were asking about "pistons" in the caliper. There will usually be 2 in the caliper. Also some seals. I guess I got the impression you were having an issue with the function of something. And was having trouble understanding from the question. But your question was pretty straight forward. I guess I could have just said "Yes" Did you get it sorted out?
@@ericinalaska7648 yes I did, I took the entire rear brake assembly apart, freeing up the lines, fittings, bleeders and caliper. I definitely need brakes for sure and possibly the rear master cylinder. Then I'll have to bleed the entire rear brakes.
@@waltereldridge9447 You'll notice when you separate the two halves of the caliper. There will be O'rings as well. Not the seals in the piston but they create a seal for the channels between the two halves. I don't know that Ive ever seen those go bad but since or if its apart still it can't hurt to replace those as well. And when bolting the caliper back together the proper torque is about 18 ft lbs.
My 98 model needed a complete oil change so I washed it real good before.
At about the same time I noticed the breaks (rear) stopped working they where fine just before.
Can this be related to the fact I washed it ? Can these things jam or do I have to put a new brake assy ?
When you say stopped working. You mean didnt grab as good? Or sloppy hand brake and pedal? If they just didnt grab as well and things are still wet. See how it is after things dry out. Unless your parts are in an advanced state of decay. I can't imagine washing it doing anything unless you were to blast a hole in a line or disconnect something already on the verge of coming apart or something with a super high power pressure washer. Highly unlikely. Check your fluid. Handle bar and under the set]at reservoir and go from there.
@@ericinalaska7648
The hand brake does his job very well but the pedal brake don't do nothing.
This model seems to have the same reservoir for the two brakes (no reservoir under the seat). Also there is no master cylinder outside the brake, the pedal is pulling direct to the brake with a metal rod.
The reservoir at the steering if full.
I checked if there is oil reaching the rear by unscrewing the bleeder screw just enough to see oil was leaking, everything seems fine.
Got no visible leakeage of oil.
It just stopped working all of a sudden, I can't be sure if it's open or closed but when I ride my ATV i don't feel any restriction so I will take a guess and say it "jammed" wide open.
Is there something else I should check before I order a new brake assy ?
@@mr.octopus6972 Hmmm. I don't have a clear picture in my head to fairly rattle off the mechanics of that set up. But My instinct is that if all the linkage is good and connected and undamaged. And things seem to be moving appropriately when stepping on the pedal. How are the pads? And you mentioned the bleeder screw. Is that being feed from the front handlebar reservoir? Could there be air in the line? Your brakes will respond or not respond differently with air in the line vs. brake fluid. I'll try to find some info on that set up and see if I can offer more. But If it was me. I'd take the caliper off and look at the pads etc. Maybe you have already and Im a step behind you. Let me know.
@@ericinalaska7648
It took me several days to figure out that I have a 96-97 rear brake model on my 98. They are fairly different.
I don't know why, my guess is they put these on the earlier batch (?)
I measured the holes and checked the pedal. It is impossible to fit a 98+ rear brake without heavy midifications.
The 98+ brakes are widely available and cheap but I have had trouble finding 96-97. So far I found expensive second hand on ebay and some repair kits from the UK.
Let me know if you know where I could find these brand new or for a fair price (i'm in canada).
I haven't dismanteled or bled the brake yet so maybe it's just some air like you said.
I will investigate more.
My master cylinder barely moves when I push on the foot brake I don't know if there's air in it or what it can be but that piston barely moves
Do your brakes work though? When theirs air in a line they tend to be a little spongy. Is the pedal up at rest or down at rest? And is the piston out or in? And is there fluid in the reservoir? Thats the main things Id look at if it was in front of me.
What size wrench is the bleeder nut
Not sure off the top of my head. I can check and get back to you if you haven't already sorted it out.
How can you tell if your back break master cylinder is bad?
Id say a few ways. Leaky, sloppy or does not return to the decompressed position. Meaning returning the foot pedal to the upward or ready position. How ever, if you have a leak or malfunction down the line. Or at the caliper for example Id start with repairing that and work my way back from there as needed. Those down the line failures could cause the master to seem as though it's not functioning properly. Hope that helps.
@@ericinalaska7648 yep just discovered a leak in the line , thanks and now I need to a flare tool, thanks again
@@bluefallon6374 Sounds like your on it. Best of luck.
thanks for educating...
Glad it was helpful. Not to shamelessly promote but you may find this one interesting. ruclips.net/video/B9KhYMiWgeY/видео.html It's a bit long and my latest.
"Polaris Sportsman COMPLETE oil change and much more DEEP DIVE" And of course there are many more. Other topics as well. Thanks for the feedback.
@@ericinalaska7648 Yep.! I binge watched your entire Polaris playlist today! Very well done! I always do the crankcase but never pull the filter out because I have never wanted to deal with priming the pump. Next spring i think i will...
Also, I thought I might have a bad rear master cylinder but now I cant wait to see if it is just air in the line. Thanks again!
Good deal. And thanks again for the feedback. Lots more to come.
Good stuff. Thanks!
Appreciate the feedback. Hope it's of some help.
good video, keep making
@@concad1 Will do. Appreciate it.
thx. great video
Thanks. Hope it was of help.
@@ericinalaska7648 I bleed the foot brake after installing a new rear master cylinder but I get no pressure from the pedal. No leaks either. I read that of the rear pads are worn enough the calliper piston is bottoming out and you wont be able to build pressure to bleed. My pads are really worn so thats next on the list.
@@truenorthmuskoka9077 Makes sense. If the piston has reached full travel before building pressure that'll do it.
So you had air in the brake system
I did. In this case it was due to a complete lack of fluid. The reservoir was completely empty so anytime you try to use the brakes in that case its just sucking in or moving air. Refiled it and had to work the air out of the line by bleeding it out as demonstrated. It was like that , empty, when I acquired the ATV. And expected to find a leak or other issue. Bad brake cylinder. Something. But I think the reservoir was simply in a bad position and aloud spilling or leaking over time. Since I repositioned it and refilled it and bled the line, Ive had no issues.
Well you a video that have to do with shifting linkage?
@@littlegggg159 What specifically are you trying to sort out?
I found a one man bleeder line and hose it works alsome . I bled my car that away.
Is it the one with like a hand pump? I had done my truck using one of those. If that's what you're talking about. It is handy for sure. And would certainly be helpful for this if yo can't reach your brake pedal and or lever.
@@ericinalaska7648 auto zone has it it's a one man bleeders. U got a hose inside a cantaner when u pump it fills up past the hose bubbles go up and fluid comes in . auto zone .one man bleeder ..they are nice when u have no help .
@@timmorris6859 Thanks for the info. Where theirs a will theirs a way.