Great video bud.... I think everyone’s been waiting for a good tutorial like this.....For every one watching this I’d recommend downloading it so you can reference it on the tracks when you’ve got not data or phone reception.... keep up the good work Aaron.... 🤙🏻👌🏻
The socket is 35mm on my PX1 2015 XLT MkII. I'm doing mine now and the RHS CVS was rusted onto the spline and the entire axle came out as well. I'm glad I dropped the diff oil and kept it clean to put back in. It took some 'Shift Ya Bastard' spray, hot water and a fair amount of hammering to get it off. Both axle seals were also weeping, so I think it pays to do these at the same time. The axle nut will rattle off without explicitly prying the locking dent up. It's easier to do this before taking the wheel off. Loosening the upper control arm also makes things easier because it releases tension. Also, before dropping the steering knuckle, it helps to tap the stub axle through the hub as you drop it so that the tripod doesn't pull out of the housing. When the steering knuckle is leaning outwards and down, you can then fit a rattle gun in behind to remove the brake caliper bolts which is a lot easier than trying to do it with a ring spanner or socket. Having some Molybdenum grease for the hub to stub axel splines helps, as does Blue Loctite for added safety with fasteners. On my LHS, I also noticed a loose bolt at the bottom of the strut, so it's a great time to check this too! It's certainly a lot easier than I thought and a good way of warming up to a diff removal and locker install. I like your idea of using a big shift to lever the CVS off. I'll keep that trick in mind for next time. It doesn't look like you're running a sway bar, but removing that as soon as the wheel comes off helps to drop the steering knuckle down further so you can remove the stub axle from the hub. It's my first run at it, but it's been a great thing to get familiar with. As you mentioned, being able to fix something like that when you're out in the bush is a good skill to have. In my case and because I often go in very remote areas, it could safe my life. I've got ARB lockers for front and rear and after doing the CVS change-overs on both sides, it gives me a lot more confidence in removing it all again and taking the mechanical adventure one step further. Cheers for sharing your video. Looks like you've got a nice rig.
Cheers for the Clip. With that 53mm Shifter, take the adjustable screw out and grind off just a couple mm of it, where it stops on the teeth and youl'll have a 65mm shifter.
Thumps up for your video. I have being having problems trying to remove my right hand front CV on my 2006 Mazda BT50 4x4. Your video has help me overcome my problem and looking forward to replacing it on my own.
Very informative and helpful. Only dramas I had was my nut was a 35mm, not 36 as mentioned. My UCA seems to be spring tensioned or something. As soon as I had that nut off the UCA shot back up nearly taking an eye out... I also had the sway bar still in which made it things a little harder
I know this is old and I just came across this video as I was searching a couple days ago for a quick run down as I broke the right front cv on the trails. Anyways yea that but is 35mm not 36 and I noticed when he was showing it the 36mm he had was fitting fairly loose. It worked for him nonetheless.
Great video, you explained it well. I'm curious though, did you simply do this video just to explain how to do the job, or was there another reason? Cheers
Thanks mate!! Nope it was purely to show everyone how easy it is to change a cv on a ranger/bt50 if someone breaks one and doesn’t know how to fix it yet
Great video, thanks Azventures Australia , it's hard to find PX ranger repairing video on RUclips. Do you remember what size socket for the axle nut? i checked the manual, the torque is 275NM, seems your tool open it quick easily. Thanks again!!
Great video mate very detailed I have a ranger 2009 pm model would it be pretty much the same, also does the axle always come out when u pull the cv shaft out. if it does come out would you put the axle on the shaft then put back it just like your video. what are the chances of the axle staying in place thanks
Hey thanks for this vid. You say your complete axel came out. Pretty sure I'm going to need that to happen for me when I attempt to fix the leaking seal. Any tips and is the inner axel also held in by a sirclip. Cheers
Ted Gaudet hey buddy!! Thanks mate 🤙 I get my cvs from wreckers now, I buy genuine cvs from $120-$250 depending on how many kms are on them, if you want to buy aftermarket cv you best getting them from bursons and only get the BWS brand
Thanks Aaron, you've just saved me pulling mine out to make sure there are no surprises if I need to do it in anger! Great idea to put this up. Much appreciated. Cheers. PP
Hey bud any tips what to do when the axle comes out with it like what happened to u?im in the middle of changing my cv's and had the same thing happen?
Hey mate, I just tapped the axle and the end of the cv to break and surface rust and it popped off mate then just slipped it back in, make sure you put anti-seize on the end of the axle before putting it back on
Simon Murray thanks mate!!! With the drivers side it’s more of a gamble. Ecuador it’s a female end on the cv, and there’s a little clip that olds the axel to the cv, it’s no big deal if it comes out, you just need to makes sure you keep it off the ground and clean as, you can easily get the axle out once it’s clean and dry and with a couple taps on the cv should pop out
MIK 4x4 I get genuine CV’s from the local wrecker mate, they’re the strongest out of all, they can range anywhere from $120-$250 depending on how many kms, just have to check the boots over for any pin holes or splits but usually pretty good, if you can’t get genuine the next best is BWS and get them from bursons and they’re $250 👌
Legend cheers mate. I put some brand new cozza cvs on last week and one snapped within 3 days of installing so frustrating.I’ll defs hit up the wreckers get some stronger ones 👍🏻
hi, i got a question is there a bearing where the inner cv goes? reason cause mine wiggles and someone said it's the bearing but i dont seem to find anywhere where i got it . i got a 2008 mazda bt50 (2.5 turbo diesel)
great vid, I'm getting a coupla spares and whacking them in the back of the ranger. Repco have CV's for the ranger but they're about 358 bucks each. Anyone used them, and if so were they good quality?
Its not so much the CV that stuffs up but the boot rips or the boot band comes of letting the grease out and letting sand or dirt into the CV Thus wrecking it.
Good video mate. My left side made a clunk noise after coming back from Fraser Is, just got off the sand and turned left hand down to side of road into police RBT and when clunk. So going to have a crack tomorrow and replace with a cozza branded cv. Hope she holds up, right side was replaced under warranty with what I believe is a Supercheap brand after googling the part number.
@@AzventuresAustralia I got it off I just got 2 bolts and screw them in the rotors and tighten and they pushed them off. Down here in Barbados parts for these are really exspensive
Curious why you held up the CV on your bench, and said this is for the left front. Later you picked it up again, and said, lets go change it. Then you took it off the right front side. Why didn't you work on the left front side?
Thanks, but that's not a cv. Thats an entire cv assembly, inner, outer, cv axle and spindles. From the title I assumed you meant how to replace the actual cv inside the boot only, where it fits into the spindle housing.
Yeah mate this was a video on how to swap out a broken cv so you can keep 4wding. I definitely don’t think the title was deceiving from the response that I’ve gotten about it with how many people it’s helped change a cv
Great video bud.... I think everyone’s been waiting for a good tutorial like this.....For every one watching this I’d recommend downloading it so you can reference it on the tracks when you’ve got not data or phone reception.... keep up the good work Aaron.... 🤙🏻👌🏻
Crack- A- Tinny 4X4 excellent advice. I have alot of vids downloaded on my phone for that very reason.
I have just done exactly that. I carry spare CVs and all the tools with me but haven’t changed one myself yet. This vid will come in handy cheers
The socket is 35mm on my PX1 2015 XLT MkII. I'm doing mine now and the RHS CVS was rusted onto the spline and the entire axle came out as well. I'm glad I dropped the diff oil and kept it clean to put back in. It took some 'Shift Ya Bastard' spray, hot water and a fair amount of hammering to get it off. Both axle seals were also weeping, so I think it pays to do these at the same time. The axle nut will rattle off without explicitly prying the locking dent up. It's easier to do this before taking the wheel off. Loosening the upper control arm also makes things easier because it releases tension. Also, before dropping the steering knuckle, it helps to tap the stub axle through the hub as you drop it so that the tripod doesn't pull out of the housing. When the steering knuckle is leaning outwards and down, you can then fit a rattle gun in behind to remove the brake caliper bolts which is a lot easier than trying to do it with a ring spanner or socket. Having some Molybdenum grease for the hub to stub axel splines helps, as does Blue Loctite for added safety with fasteners. On my LHS, I also noticed a loose bolt at the bottom of the strut, so it's a great time to check this too! It's certainly a lot easier than I thought and a good way of warming up to a diff removal and locker install. I like your idea of using a big shift to lever the CVS off. I'll keep that trick in mind for next time. It doesn't look like you're running a sway bar, but removing that as soon as the wheel comes off helps to drop the steering knuckle down further so you can remove the stub axle from the hub. It's my first run at it, but it's been a great thing to get familiar with. As you mentioned, being able to fix something like that when you're out in the bush is a good skill to have. In my case and because I often go in very remote areas, it could safe my life. I've got ARB lockers for front and rear and after doing the CVS change-overs on both sides, it gives me a lot more confidence in removing it all again and taking the mechanical adventure one step further. Cheers for sharing your video. Looks like you've got a nice rig.
Thanks for the great tutorial! Mine fell out today and now I know what to do. Keep well and see you down the Capertee.
Thank you. Finally a video for the late model Rangers. Much appreciated !
Robert L mate I searched for ages for a recent model video too!!! Glad i made it and it helps many fellas out there 👊👊
Nice touch with the Kookaburra laughing in the background just as Aaron completes the removal of CV and axle at 9:00
Awesome video mate, well explained and demonstrated 👍
Thanks for your video, helped me heaps. Mine was a bit more due to the sway bar...
Cheers for the Clip. With that 53mm Shifter, take the adjustable screw out and grind off just a couple mm of it, where it stops on the teeth and youl'll have a 65mm shifter.
Love your work I learnt something 🍻🍻🍻
Mate you're a legend. Thanks so much for this.
Great video. Proudly owner of a Ford Ranger XLT 2015.
You just gotta love aussies there ain't no bullshit with these guys
Reg McCormack I’ll take that as a compliment thanks reg 🤙🤙
Thumps up for your video. I have being having problems trying to remove my right hand front CV on my 2006 Mazda BT50 4x4. Your video has help me overcome my problem and looking forward to replacing it on my own.
Looks so easy, even a sparky could do it 😉👍
Thanks mate great vid. I’ll give it a go now. You’ve inspired me. Legend
Rob Gaunt thanks mate!!!get into it bro!! If I can do it you can too 🤙🤙👊👊
Very informative and helpful. Only dramas I had was my nut was a 35mm, not 36 as mentioned. My UCA seems to be spring tensioned or something. As soon as I had that nut off the UCA shot back up nearly taking an eye out... I also had the sway bar still in which made it things a little harder
I know this is old and I just came across this video as I was searching a couple days ago for a quick run down as I broke the right front cv on the trails. Anyways yea that but is 35mm not 36 and I noticed when he was showing it the 36mm he had was fitting fairly loose. It worked for him nonetheless.
Hey mate is the left hand side just as easy? Nonneed to unbolt the sway bar?
great work and great advice
Hey mate how do you sort out the axle when it comes out
mine just done the same thing
Russel Coight with ink. Good vid.
Great video, you explained it well. I'm curious though, did you simply do this video just to explain how to do the job, or was there another reason?
Cheers
Thanks mate!! Nope it was purely to show everyone how easy it is to change a cv on a ranger/bt50 if someone breaks one and doesn’t know how to fix it yet
@@AzventuresAustralia Ok cool, well done
Thanks Mate,Like your style.
Great video, thanks Azventures Australia , it's hard to find PX ranger repairing video on RUclips. Do you remember what size socket for the axle nut? i checked the manual, the torque is 275NM, seems your tool open it quick easily. Thanks again!!
hahaha93510 yeah mate it’s a 36mm socket 🤙
Where does the circlip is?? On the differential or on the axle??
Amazing skill! It would take me half day. Mine is a everest same as courier so Ibhave to go search for it in youtube yet
Thanks I like It, a 35mm socket makes a better fitt
Great video mate
very detailed
I have a ranger 2009 pm model would it be pretty much the same, also does the axle always come out when u pull the cv shaft out.
if it does come out would you put the axle on the shaft then put back it just like your video. what are the chances of the axle staying in place
thanks
Hey thanks for this vid. You say your complete axel came out. Pretty sure I'm going to need that to happen for me when I attempt to fix the leaking seal. Any tips and is the inner axel also held in by a sirclip. Cheers
Great show do you do one changing a lower control arm on the bt50
Very good job i like your video i have a 2012 ford ranger i am doing up
fantastic thank you from one chippy to another! Let’s see the mechanics build a fucken house frame
Muchas gracias!!!!! from Barcelona (Catalonia)
Hey mate good vids, just looking back at this video. Where did you get your after market cvs from? I’ve had a look online but not much luck. Cheers 🤙
Ted Gaudet hey buddy!! Thanks mate 🤙
I get my cvs from wreckers now, I buy genuine cvs from $120-$250 depending on how many kms are on them, if you want to buy aftermarket cv you best getting them from bursons and only get the BWS brand
Bro your the man ,
Choice bro choice 👍👌
Hey mate any ideas on the axle shaft oil seal part numbers on front left and right. Ford don't have a listing for them.
Thanks Aaron, you've just saved me pulling mine out to make sure there are no surprises if I need to do it in anger! Great idea to put this up. Much appreciated. Cheers. PP
Great vid. I'm just about to do mine in the UK. I hate to be "that guy", but do you know how many Nm or Ft-Lb to tighten the nuts? :)
do you know the spec of the ranger's axle CV drives? overall length? splines of each side?
That would be awsomeif you can share that with us.
👍
Good job brother! Thanks for the tips
Did you have to disconnect the Battery or Electronic Steering??
Hey mate are you able to do a video on why you don't have your front sway bar in and what's the pros and cons of it?? :)
Sick vid dude, many thanks
Great video mate you just saved me 🤙
Thanks mate!!! Glad I made this one to help everyone out 🤙🤙
Ranger looks great! What made you choose it over others?
DeAtomizer thanks bro!! I chose it over the other utes mainly for the bigger engine and towing capacity
Hey bud any tips what to do when the axle comes out with it like what happened to u?im in the middle of changing my cv's and had the same thing happen?
Hey mate, I just tapped the axle and the end of the cv to break and surface rust and it popped off mate then just slipped it back in, make sure you put anti-seize on the end of the axle before putting it back on
Once again. Great content
Good vid thanks Az, is there a trick you've found to not have the axle come out with the CV?
Simon Murray thanks mate!!! With the drivers side it’s more of a gamble. Ecuador it’s a female end on the cv, and there’s a little clip that olds the axel to the cv, it’s no big deal if it comes out, you just need to makes sure you keep it off the ground and clean as, you can easily get the axle out once it’s clean and dry and with a couple taps on the cv should pop out
Please help can that axel come out completely, and the be no problems put it back after it was outside.. please help
Hello, i have a question, the ball joint on a Ford ranger 2013 3.2 will replace alone or together with the lower control arm?
Thank you for the lesson, I found it very interesting. ( Jan Strydom Lydenburg South Africa)
Love your work brother 👍🏻😎
Do you torque the axle nut to a specific amount or just keep going till it feels alright?
I just go a bunch of ugga Duggas until it stops moving 🤣 I reckon that’s what a ford mechanic would say as well
@@AzventuresAustralia I don’t think you’re too far off 😂
Good vid man, reckon you could do a vid changing a tierod end. Cheers man.
Much needed video
Great informative video. Thanks Mate.
Will this be the same as a Mazda bounty ?
Really well explained thanks mate 👍
THANK YOU FOR DETAIL VIDEO AS SEE WHAT CAN DO
Sorry I started taking my front dif cover off of my 2003 Ford ranger I got it loose how can I get it resealed
NICE JOB
How's she flex with the front swaybar out??? , i heard ya get like 2" more articulation
Phil Burns mate it is one of the best free mods you could do to an ifs car!!! It really makes it work a lot better
How does it affect the driving? Last time i pulled one out in a hilux it was sloppy on the road
Good one mate!
Brian Lee thanks mate
How do you stop the axel coming out?
What brand cv do you use mate?
MIK 4x4 I get genuine CV’s from the local wrecker mate, they’re the strongest out of all, they can range anywhere from $120-$250 depending on how many kms, just have to check the boots over for any pin holes or splits but usually pretty good, if you can’t get genuine the next best is BWS and get them from bursons and they’re $250 👌
Legend cheers mate. I put some brand new cozza cvs on last week and one snapped within 3 days of installing so frustrating.I’ll defs hit up the wreckers get some stronger ones 👍🏻
Nice vid...thanks
hi, i got a question is there a bearing where the inner cv goes? reason cause mine wiggles and someone said it's the bearing but i dont seem to find anywhere where i got it . i got a 2008 mazda bt50 (2.5 turbo diesel)
There is no bearing just a shaft into the diff,they all wiggle a bit on the shaft.
Where are your tie rods ?
Lift height and tire size?
Tyres are 315/75/16r and it’s 2.5 front and 3 rear mate
Nice one 😎
Use some brake cleaner on the disc to remove all the oily hand prints....
thanks
great vid, I'm getting a coupla spares and whacking them in the back of the ranger. Repco have CV's for the ranger but they're about 358 bucks each. Anyone used them, and if so were they good quality?
Apparently not that good. Better off chasing genuine through a wrecker. Cheaper too
Its not so much the CV that stuffs up but the boot rips or the boot band comes of letting the grease out and letting sand or dirt into the CV
Thus wrecking it.
Good video mate. My left side made a clunk noise after coming back from Fraser Is, just got off the sand and turned left hand down to side of road into police RBT and when clunk. So going to have a crack tomorrow and replace with a cozza branded cv. Hope she holds up, right side was replaced under warranty with what I believe is a Supercheap brand after googling the part number.
Rob Williams how is the COZZA CV holding up? I’ve done the same thing as you and need to replace mine but nervous about aftermarket
Loved the video , found it entertaining and informative...lol, a big f'ing socket...hahahaha
How easy is it or hArd to take off the brake rotor
Automotive Parts I would say very easy, the calliper is held on with 2 bolts and once the calliper is off the rotor will almost fall off
@@AzventuresAustralia I got it off I just got 2 bolts and screw them in the rotors and tighten and they pushed them off. Down here in Barbados parts for these are really exspensive
Uh….
That’s not a CV.
CV stands for ‘Constant Velocity’ joint. That is a front drive axle that happens to contain 2 CV joints.
@@sc2352 thanks for that! I just went with the most common name that everyone calls it
Shit hot mate
Curious why you held up the CV on your bench, and said this is for the left front. Later you picked it up again, and said, lets go change it. Then you took it off the right front side. Why didn't you work on the left front side?
Yeah that was made me confused. I thought every wrecker also any store listed the wrong side because of i was watched this video 🤦🏻♀️
Thanks, but that's not a cv. Thats an entire cv assembly, inner, outer, cv axle and spindles. From the title I assumed you meant how to replace the actual cv inside the boot only, where it fits into the spindle housing.
Yeah mate this was a video on how to swap out a broken cv so you can keep 4wding. I definitely don’t think the title was deceiving from the response that I’ve gotten about it with how many people it’s helped change a cv
This fucking bull shit how the fuck am I going to fix this fucking front cover