INSTALLING A MINI SPLIT AC IN YOUR RV - RV LIFE: Replace Roof Top AC.
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- Опубликовано: 5 авг 2024
- Get rid of that old noisy AC unit and install a Super Quite Mini Split AC Unit. Step by step install.
We love living full-time in our RV but that AC unit on our roof is so noisy and just not very efficient. Sure we could buy an Easy Start and maybe it would help ruining it on Solar. However; it is still noisy. This new unit is super quiet and really efficient. Runs off our solar with no issue and can literally freeze you out. Come along as we install this new change in our full-time rv life.
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ITEMS USED IN THIS VIDEO:
12000 BTU Pioneer Mini Split 110v - amzn.to/3Ybs4FB
VIDEO BREAKDOWN IS AS FOLLOWS:
00:00 Preview
00:40 Introduction
02:35 Making Space for Mini Split Head Unit
08:33 Mini Split finally come in from Home Depot
11:59 Unboxing Mini Split and Installing Head Unit
25:53 Removing Generator and Preparing for Compressor
34:35 Installing Control wire and Copper Tubing
40:10 Installing Compressor
44:57 Charging Lines with Refrigerant
52:25 Finalizing Wiring
53:13 Turning on and Testing
56:44 Conclusion
WHAT TO WATCH NEXT:
○ 5 Things to know about a Mini Split - • 5 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT...
○ Comparing Hike Crew and Maxxair Fans - • HIKE CREW FAN OR MAXXA...
○ RV Microwave Issues - • RV MICROWAVE ISSUES - ...
○ Alternator Problems - • ALTERNATOR PROBLEM ON ...
○ Full-time RV Living - • LIVING IN AN RV FULL-T...
WE LIVE FULL-TIME IN OUR RV:
We purchased our RV on November 18th, 2017 (Ninette’s Birthday) and started full-time RV Living on January 12, 2018. We have not regretted the decision to sell everything and move into an RV. We love the lifestyle and the people and places we get to visit.
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*This unit works like a charm. Keeps my room 20 x 20 very **Fastly.Cool** . I recommend to anyone that wants to keep a room cold without having to turn on the main a/c.*
It works really nice and it is so quiet. Sure glad we made the change. Thanks for watching.
How many watts does it use, typically when cooling? When heating?
I'm looking at installing a mini-split into a motor home. For the locker door that flips up, the plan is to cut a large rectangular hole in it and weld a piece of mesh grille in behind. This will allow plenty of air to pass through. The integrity of the door is kept intact by the metal superstructure frame around the outer edge.
Good suggestion S.W. I'm still just opening and closing the door. Really want to change that and just need to find some time and tools to do it. Thanks for watching.
Theyre called gables and come with an installation kit for a wall or door that you want to use it in.
Just have a question, is the 12,000 btus adequate amount for the square foot of interior?
Not knowing the footage can the mini split keep up with your needs on both swings, heat and cooling? Have the thinking more is better (btus) but have been corrected on that from some other cooling professionals. Would love to know if that unit is living up to your expectations at you roll thru different areas and climates?
As I was reading all the post from you and other contributors I did read where you were in 97 degrees and the coach was at 76 that is good, my problem is that I like snow to come out of the head unit. I have no idea if more btu capacity would help in your case as a comparison with my question. To show my situation at home in living room, 25,000 btu 220volt window unit probably 10 years old. Cools living room and a little of kitchen but no other areas. In my first post, that's why I think more is better, but my old system has limitations of how old and efficency or lack of.
Nice video I was impressed on the job, completion, nice clean install, and it works to you and your wife's liking. Thank you and take care.
Very nice and I am sold. I plan to install one in my 5th Wheel and do the install myself and let a HVAC person do the additional stuff. Nice job.
Thanks for watching. If you have room you may want to look into a 2 head unit. The key is finding one that is 110 volts. Our back half doesn't get as cool during the day but fans help. I didn't have a place for another head unit so I couldn't have done that if I wanted. But we really enjoy having the mini split.
Great video I was looking for someone to breakdown the steps of there install as detailed as you did. I look forward to doing the same on my class a. Thank you for the motivation. 🤗
It is a fun project. And we are really happy with the install. We also bought a controller called Cielo off of Amazon which allows us to control the mini split anywhere in the world as long as it has internet access. The hottest we have used it in is about 97 and the coach was set at 75. No problems keeping it there. Felt nice. Thanks for watching.
Great Job David! Hope to see you and Ninette on the road. It was great spending time with you at the Colorado River and that pizza you made in your smoker was delish 💯
Time sure flys. It will be an interesting Summer. But keep in touch and we will see if can meet up down the road. Thanks for watching.
Wow, great video! Once again I am amazed at your skills!
Keep it coming... LOL. I was fortunate to have some great teachers along the way. But I do have a friend that says luck is better than skill. ::) Thanks for watching,.
You are very talented! Dream, wish, do and done! Nice job my friend!
Thanks for watching. Hope it helps others out and I do take some of my gifts for granite. But I'm glad to share what I can to help others as needed. But sometimes it is just a matter of asking a lot of questions to get the results I'm looking forward to. I really don't know everything although I keep telling my wife I do. LOL
Excellent job you did on this install of your mini split.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the complement. There are always things you would do different but I like learning new things.
@@TignerAdventures One of my many jobs in life was being a AC and Heating (High pressure steam Boilers) tech , so again excellent job.
great job, great fit too !
Thank you and thanks for watching. Hope it helps.
Awesome info & retro fit 👍⚾️🇺🇸
Thanks for watching. This was a game changer for us. It works so well and now that I have upgraded my batteries to Lithium they keep up very easy and it isn't even in the full production of the solar cycle yet. Very happy.
These split units are absolutely great! Home Depot now sells them
Thanks for watching Don. They have always sold them. However they have not always had them in stock. I think things are finally catching up as far as shipping goes. I'm still not a fan on how their ordering process goes. They are quick to take your money and slow to deliver. If you can find it in a store then life is great.
This video will prove invaluable for me as I am about to order the same exact unit for my winnebago. As a matter of fact we are in Desert Paradise Resort just across I-8 from you here in Yuma. I would love to pay you a visit and compare notes.
Thanks for this excellent video
Jerry (Lonesome Dove Free)
Thanks for watching Jerry, This was a fun project and I would love to show you. Why don't you email us your phone number details at dream@tigneradventures.com and lets see what we can work out.
Good video,thanks!
Thanks for watching Peter. We are still very happy with this change.
Well made video. I’m watching this 1 year after you completed your mini split install, I’m interested in your experience with vibration’s effects on your copper line sets. If the install passes the test of time, this is the future of RV HVAC. Safe travels.
Thanks for watching. It really depends on where people put the lines. In my case it has worked very well and we have place over 8k on our right this summer a lone. We are happy with the change for sure.
U should have made it like a drawer so u could slide the unit in and out when service is needed and left a coil for the refrigerant lines so they would move like a hinge
Great Idea Steve, Except I talked to a lot of AC places and no one had a coil line made for AC that would do that. I have seen people have issues with mounting it on a bumper and having it move around enough to break the lines so i wanted to do the coil option. Its been a while now so I can't remember all of the issues with that but getting the right hose was the main problem among others. Mounting it the way I did has worked well for over 7000 miles now of bumpy roads. I still just open the door when I turn it on. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for taking the time to make and share this video. I am considering installing a mini-split so your video was helpful. The only question I have now is whether you allowed sufficient space above the inside unit. If it operates like it should, as it appears it does, then the spacing is probably fine. Again, thanks for sharing. Dan
Thanks for watching Dan. I seen your other message that you found the answer and all I can add is you got to use what you got. In our case it works fine.
Great job on the installation. If it were mine, I would have a grate made for the door of that compartment at the compressor. I think it would look more professional and clean. Putting a bunch of holes would look tacky.
Thanks, I agree with you. I have found a number of grills on rigs I think would work nice. I need to check with a wrecking yard and see what rig I might be able to get one from and then retro fit it to the door. Thanks for watching and your comment.
Damn! That mini split is huge.
Thanks for watching Marke. The size and name brand determines the physical size. The nice thing is that the head unit is pretty lite since it is made up of mostly fins for the air to blow through. The challenge is the compressor. That is why I got rid of my generator and place the compressor there. But it is give and take compromise.
The head unit of the 28.5 Seer-2 EG-4 minisplit I installed in my MH is 11" wider than this one, at 42 1/2"!
Great video. We just did a 12k btu minisplit in our 1978 gmc motorhome. It was my first time using household refrigerant systems and I was confused on the best method for unhooking the gauges (either doing it before opening the Refrigerant pressure valve or afterwards) I now see how unhooking the gauges afterwards is the best method to prevent air from being sucked back in! Thanks! I may have done it the wrong way lol
Well the accomplishment is that you tried something new. By the way I'm not an expert so maybe I did it wrong and you did it right? LOL. Take care and thanks for watching.
I use a Appion valve core removal adapter when I installed mine. You barely crack the system for 5 seconds then close it again. This pressurizes the lines so no air gets sucked in on the chance you disconnect incorrectly. It also allows you to check for leaks with soap and water without losing the entire refrigerant. Then you disconnect. Then open the valves all the way up. Done.
Gables are used in houses to give air flow to attics and crawl spaces. It can easily be installed on a door for air flow to the ac unit.
Thanks for watching Taylor and that suggestion. I will look into that.
For venting the side panel, try and get the grate used for side radiator diesels and cut if needed to fit
Thanks for watching Mike. I like that idea. I have been looking for an old one from a diesel pusher rv by have not found one. A Truck one might be easier to find.
Drill or cut Vent holes, Yes. You can use a large air vent cover painted to suit to cover the vent holes.
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm headed to my Daughters and her husband use to do some fabricating so we'll figure out something for sure. Thanks for watching.
I installed one in my 42' 5th wheel. Installed the inside unit on the rear wall, ran the lines outside through the wall, used a line set cover kit to run it down to the bumper for looks then ram a 25' extension line set to the condenser which I mounted up where the factory pull out steps went which I replaced with the lippert solid steps and everywhere I go people are asking me how did I get the factory to install that. When I show some of them what I did and how I did it they're wanting to do the same. It was 108 here today and inside it was 72 with a well insulated 5th wheel and a 12k btu 110v mini that I paid $450 for and it uses half the juice just one of the roof units use. If you haven't put one in I suggest you do.
Thanks for watching. We sure love ours. Thanks for the endorsement and also the good information for others to use.
I have that pioneer ductless unit in my camper Best money spent it will freeze you in the summer I keep mine set to 74 on Automatic with the temperature outside in the 80s but in the winter it's not the best for heating but helps power bill is lot lower now and I have my door open lot of times but it's cool in here
Thanks for watching Tommy. Love this change. It has worked very well for us. Last year back East we ran it 24/7 while at our daughters in Georgia and it was so quiet kept us at 70 very easy. It will run off solar pretty easy in a dry climate like the desert that doesn't usually stay hot at night. I like it cools nicely and is so quiet.
If that door is metal you could put louvers in it like older hot rods had. ( Some shops still do that pretty cheap) good video.)
Thanks for watching Craig and for the suggestion. I still have not changed this and still looking so I'll check out some of those shops and see what I can find.
Super useful content. I’m planning to use 2 mini splits in my prevost bus conversion and I absorbed everything in your video. I will revisit when my unit comes in. Thank you for posting this.
Question: do you have to use a vacuum compressor on all the units that come pre-charged with Freon ?
Thanks for watching and the feed back. You do need to vacuum because the lines are not vacuumed. If there is any air in the system it will over time contaminate the system and it will fail. We are so happy with our unit. You will love it.
Im gonna atempt the install of a 38 seer 9000 btu inovair on the 2nd when i get home off the road from this semi driving. Im installing my minisplit in my 30 foot holiday rambler travel trailer. Its a 220 model and will be powered by my 4000 watt low frequency sungold power inverter. I use 24 nissan leaf modules for my 1800 watts of solar and will be off grid all the time while im taking my home time from work. Me and my wife have been building out our camper over the last year with all the solar and all that and im really hopeful in my solar being able to carry the minisplit. I have a second inverter thats 3000 watt that powers the rest of our camper. Im glad you made this video id give anything to have someone around when i try this install that could helpe with this but i think i can do it with your video. Thanks alot for real
Wow Matthew that sounds interesting. I did not think you could do 220 in an RV however I found out my friend has a 220 dryer in his RV. He explained how he did it but he had a lot of money in the design. I think the amp draw would be less but I'm not an engineer. Keep me posted.
@@TignerAdventures this is gonna sound ridiculous but when I found out I had stage 4 cancer I started this project of building out a camper so if times got real bad that me and the wife would still be able to live. I am in remission with cancer and back to work but my project is still in the making for sure. So far I've spent about 20 grand on solar and electrical stuff to make sure we will have electricity and 20 grand is a lot of money to me and her. I'm hoping to upgrade my from my leaf batteries soon. I'm wanting about atleast 20 but probably 30 kw of lifepo4. I've upgraded all the water system and water heater and all that also. The camper I've done all this work on is a 30 foot 1993 holiday rambler. It's not an old trash camper tho actually it had been kept indoors all it's life until about a year ago when I bought it. Now it stays under a cover tho. Yeah cancer made me want to be prepared for anything and this minisplit is one more way of taking care of us. That's really cool you responded to my comment. Thankyou
@@matthewknight5641 I always reply Matthew. I hope we never get so big we can't. Ours is a 1994 MH but we have put about 20 grand in it also. The MH doesn't really know the difference between running on a pole or running off our batteries. We can do all the same things. Of course, we can't run our AC if it isn't really sunny out. The only time we had an issue was when we stayed at our daughter's in Georgia and had to run it 24x7 because of the heat and humidity. Even in that case I just plugged my charger in and we still ran off the batteries all the time. My wife had uterus cancer about 8 years ago and it is funny how you look at life after that. Glad you are in remission. Enjoy life and don't hesitate to ask questions. I don't know everything but you can bounce things off me anytime.
I bought a flange tool at Harbor Freight & cut the tubing to length. Vacuum pump also from Harbor Freight.
Works for me. I actually planned to cut mine at one point but then in the end it came out just right. Glad it worked out for you. Nice and easy. Good job.
Please ignore my question. I can see someone else asked the same question and you thoroughly replied to the question already.
Thanks Dan. Yep. I always want to reply to questions so I did add something but really it has been working very well. I know what it says and I'm sure it would be better if i had more room. But it works a lot better than our old one did.
If the cover door is metal, you could have louvers formed in it. You just need to find someone with the forming equipment. Dan S.
Thanks for the suggestion. I have thought about inserting a panel with louvers on it. I'll like this option. I'll look into it. Thanks for watching.
The compressor DOES NOT run backwards on heat mode. A heat pump reverses the refrigerant lines.
Awww interesting. I guess there is a valve there that reverses things. Good to know.
I loved your video. I plan to install a mini split in a box truck conversion soon. I have installed lots of mini splits since they came out. I started with Mitsubishi (they use 1/4" access so do not need the adaptor.) but are somewhat pricey. I was worried about the truck being a little off level and the wall unit leaking down the wall instead of out the drain. Have you ever had that issue? A little tech talk on the equipment.... these use an inverter that brings in the alternating current, changes it to direct current, cleans up the sine wave and changes it to 3 phase current. It does not stop there. It changes the frequency from 60 hertz to usually a lower amount to bring the BTU capacity down to well under half as the demand lowers. I did notice you said the compressor reverses in heat. All heat pumps I have ever used have done this with a reversing valve that changes the flow of refrigerant. It's the whooshing noise you hear sometimes when the home unit is defrosting.
Thanks for watching Clyde. A lot of people have made the comment about the reverse switch which makes since for it to heat or cools. The power comment is pretty interesting. Always learning things. As far as the flow we usually are pretty level because of our fridge so it is hard to say. It does have a nice collection area and you could put a hose on both sides so as far as side to side it wouldn't matter if it leaned one way or the other. Don't think it would be a deal breaker if it leaned forward but have no experience with that. Have never had it not drain out the tube though. Good luck with your conversion.
To change the direction of you line set: lift the set up and roll it to the other side. Bending 90°’s the opposite direction is a near sure bet to kink the tube.
Thanks for watching Scott. That is a great point. It was pretty hard turning the tube. Didn't say anything about rolling the unit. It is amazing how hard that copper gets fast.
Correct! These sets are NOT designed to be bent downward and will surely damage it! They are by designe meant to be bent around
@@TignerAdventures actually after further investigation of your video, I have noticed that you did in fact, kink the bigger tube. You’re going to need to replace those tubes in sight head unit before you lose all your Freon or damage your compressor
@@davidew98 I think I see what you are seeing in the video. The plastic makes it look that way but I can guarantee you that there are no kinks. Its been almost 2 years and works great. So for now I'll just enjoy it. But I do see what you are talking about on the bending direction.
This was a nicely detailed video on your mini split installation! Just curious where did you move your guages to that were on interior wall orginally? How is it doing in cooling mode this summer? Awesome job😊
Thanks. for watching Ginna. So actually I have never reinstalled them. When I installed my new batteries I installed a manual switch so I didn't need that one anymore and so all that was really left was the propane which I really never used. I just look at the actual gauge on the tank. So for now the wires are still where I coiled them up. Interesting that this summer we have been in 70-80 temps mostly up in Canada and down the West coast. But we did hit a few days in the high desert that got a little warm and the AC worked like a charm. Last year we used it for 3 months straight 24x7. I found if it runs 24x7 the whole unit says pretty nice. If I just start it up late in the day the back bedroom doesn't really cool down until after dark. Solar works great because the unit draws about 6-9 amps when the temps out side are about 95 and sunny. If the temp goes over a 100+ it can draw up to about 13 amps which the solar can't keep up with. Luckily on those days we have been in an RV park with full hookups. But cooling wise it works nice. Sometimes if we come back later and it is warm inside we start up the ac and close the bedroom door and it cools off pretty fast.
Thanks SOOO much for the detailed instructions and Grrrreat camera angles! Queswtion: How does your mini split do for winter heating? I ask because I am in the PNW, so although airconditioning is needed, heating is slightly more of an issue for me. TIA!
Thanks for watching Alison. So it probably does a good job but I really have not used it enough to know. We have propane heat with duct work so we just use that mostly. I wish I had a better answer for you. I think it would depend on how cold is cold for you. It does produce heat and motels use it just like you want too. I think it does have a limit on how cold it will work in but the manufacture should be able to tell you the temp range it works in. For example mine says -13 to 86 you can heat from 32-86. But it is designed to work in that way. I would also think you would have to have a fan to push the heat to the floor as heat normally rises. But again it works good in a motel room.
Maybe I'm missing something here.. you removed the generator, so how do you power everything? Is this rig only intended for campgrounds where you can plug into shore power?
Thanks for watching. So we never used our Generator because we have solar. This unit runs off of solar and in worst case we do care a little generator that gets much better time per gallon than the original generator did. .
Maybe try to make a grate that you can screw on to the door.
Great suggestion. I been studying it a little and I need to look at what is out there as far as venting. Ninette doesn't like the idea of drilling a bunch of holes so that is out.
Good video, well done. I would be concerned about dirt and debris being thrown up behind the tag axle. Maybe a pan or plate bolted or screwed to your mount bars would keep the unit cleaner?
Thanks for watching Michael. I understand the concern. However, we have had this in some pretty bad road areas including gravel roads and have never had an issue. i checked it out a few weeks ago to see if there was anything banging up there and I think the mud flap has been protecting it because I don't see any. The issue with installing a pan is it needs the clearance to pull air up from underneath.
mini splits rule. i installed a big one in my rental house and my tenant loves it.
Thanks for watching Bobby. We do love ours and have never regretted making the change.
You can fix AC unit in top of rv to save space … by cuting the compressor pipes and move it outside of unit and keep unit in horizontal, fan on top need fix brackets for unit and compressor in roof.
Interesting idea. Do you know anyone that has done that? The fact that the everything needs to be upright would make the height a concern. Thanks for watching.
I like Parker in the summer 🤣
The river there makes it nice in the hot weather. Other wise the AC unit works great.
I have several of these units. I have 2 12k and 1 24k. All pull between 2 and 10 amps. And that is on 220. The 12k unita I have been monitoring now for a couple years, pull the most while heating, about 1300 watts. On 120 that would be over 10 amps. Just an FYI.
The big 24k btu unit I've see it pull as high as 2700 watts when it is cool out (not cold!) and you crank the heat up.
These are great units though.. great for solar because they do not have that huge inductive start up of traditional AC units, amd the modulate depending on heating/cooling requirement.
One thing I've noticed about the 24k btu unit, it "runs away"...meaning it has a tendency to heat too much or cool too much pastnits set point. HOWEVER, the unit is grossly over sized for my application and I understand that and have adjusted my expectations accordingly. I overbsized it intentionally to make sure I had enough heat pump in the winter. Last year during the really bad cold snap we had here in ohio, all three units performed surprisingly well. The 12k heating an over hung floored room struggled, but it isn't very well insulated either....again....I adjusted my expectations and have it slated as a project this fall to reinstate the floor.
Thanks for watching and commenting Wade. Great points. Insulation is a big one for us. I notice a major difference if the sun is on the side the AC is on I have my awning out or in. That sun gets hot on the side of the rig. I really thought about putting in a double head unit but don't have the room for one nor the solar power to run it for two. Also I cheated on some of the specs so yo have to adjust your expectations there. But we love having it and it has done a great job for us.
I put u shape crimps on the wires. They slide under the screws to the compressor for power.
Nice. I have done it that way on other things also and if you can crimp it well enough it is nice and clean.
Bought the adapter also at Harbor Freight, which is also available on Amazon
Thanks for watching. Didn't know they carried the adapter so I learned something. Thanks.
cut a big rectangle and use a(or multiple) vent registers. It will look nice.
Thanks for watching and the suggestion. I think this might be the best option.
I would cut a hole out of the door and find a louvred panel to screw over it. So it would be like those slotted doors on the back of diesel pushers to let air in to the radiator...
Thanks for watching Bran and thanks for the suggestion. I like this idea the best and been looking for a grate. I need to drill a hold and make sure the panel is hollow first but that is the plan for now.
Thanks David…is the single unit enough to keep things cool? And I mean really cool! Being from MN means we do not like it warm and muggy. How long is your class a? I only watched the beginning and the end as I don’t understand all the mechanics. If we decide to do this will have hubby watch…excellent info!
Our single unit will cool 400 sqf. But that is cool not necessarily cold. I met a couple that installed a 2 head unit in their bus and he said it gets to cold. I just don't have a place for 2 heads. I have thought about adding one above the bed but I think it would be in the way when I leave the room as our unit has no slides and I only have about 1 foot at the end of the bed to get out. But if you have the space you may want to look at that. Thanks for watching.
Never ever use WD-40 to lube AC connections. If you need to use anything, use spray silicone. You don't lube ferals on any type of tubing as they are not meant to rotate as they tighten.
To vent the outside compartment you should make a window of the diamond hole expanded metal they use on screen doors. Do 2 layers, 1/4-1/2 inch apart, offset so there isn't a straight through hole. This will reduce puddle splash, & road spray from drenching your unit as you drive in wet conditions. Install it on the upper half of the swing up door.
Or install 2, 4-6 inch solar powered vent fans in the upper door half blowing out. This will exhaust the warm air and suck in cooler air from the shaded area under the RV.
wd40 is not lube...it stands for "water displacement"...keep that in mind...silicone be good.
Thanks for watching Tim. I probably should have made that a little clearer about the wd40 and silicone would probably work also. But an AC guy told me to place a little 3in1 oil on the copper or wd40 so when the brass nut is turning it does not bind up on the copper. I did not place that on the ferals as they do not turn. I did put on some of the sealer that Pioneer gave me. And some good ideas on the door options. Thanks.
Thanks for all your detail! As you can see, you’ve helped many already. On my class C, I’d really like to do the genny bay install, but I don’t think my clearance will work. The unit I have is 22” tall ( I think you said yours the same) so I really need at least 24”. From my floor to the bottom of the I-beam frame is 18.5”. I can’t imagine dropping down 6” below that with the compressor. Thoughts, anyone?
Thanks Dann for watching. I think it really depends on where you are in the coach. I have seen others drop it that low closer to an axle but it is tricky to really know. I would hang something down that far like a wire and then keep checking it to see if it gets bent at all. This way you would know if you ever get that close and it will be a problem. I checked all over before deciding to go the route I did.
@@TignerAdventures I like that idea. It seems like I have tons of clearance and I just don’t see bottoming out in the middle of the rig!
Question if you don’t mind, do you have any issues with the clearance for the indoor unit return being close to the ceiling? I wouldn’t worry much about the sides but just wondering about the return and how much clearance you gave it?
I put one in a rental with a gabled ceiling that had less clearance than recommend without any issue, but I was just wondering. I think it looks like the clearance is less on camera than it actually is but just wondering because many brands say like 9”+ is needed which seems like overkill.
Great video. The placement of the indoor unit I really like because there aren’t many areas to install in ours, and I really don’t want to do one of the ceiling cassette type ones if I don’t have to. Most of the options for rv’s setup like mine would require a lot of cutting and alteration so I really like your design. I’m going to have the outdoor unit on a mount attached to the hitch in the rear but if I didn’t intend on eventually selling my rig I would like to have it enclosed like you do as well.
Sorry for the long comment! Have a great week!
Thanks for watching and the comment and no bother, we love helping where we can. We have 3 inches clearance and it doesn't seem to cause it any issues. I'm sure there is some degradation but it works really nice and we are using the heck out of it right now back East in 95+ heat and 80-90 percent humidity. We keep the rig between 74-77 and it does a nice job. Where ever you mount everything just make sure the line can be mounted solid. I seen one guy put it up off his back bumper about 3 feet in the air. it had too much play and it wasn't too long before the copper lines broke. He had to buy some expensive flex line to get by the problem. Finding the right location is for sure the hardest thing in the install. Good luck.
Good job. Did you put a panel back over your access port? Wondering about tires throwing rocks and gravel. Maybe I am overthinking this.
As far as the vent idea what if you ran a tube like a dryer vent that was picking up forced air into that compartment? I am unsure what volume of air is required. Maybe your idea will give enough flow as well.
Thanks Brent for watching. Yes I did place the panel back on so there is no hole there. See it blended so well you didn't see it. I guess a did to good of job. lol. As far as the vent it does pass a lot of air so a 4" hose is for sure not big enough. But good suggestion. Thanks.
Cut a square hole and put an expanded steel grate in there. (Like over the generator).
Great Idea. I've been looking for a grate but want it to be aluminum so it doesn't rust. Probably end up welding something together. But I'm still looking so I just open the door when I turn it on for now.
Great job David. Would love to put a minisplit in my rig but I can't figure out where I'd put the compressor unit... Not ready to ditch my Onan 7500 Quiet Diesel generator just yet... How many amps does the unit draw when heating on cooler nights/days? Others have indicated they had to increase battery capacity due to heating demands but not for cooling... Jim
It draws 7 amps. So we use our propane furnace to heat since it doesn't draw much on the batteries. The idea of the mini split was to cool in the summer when we have good solar. But if you figure 7 amps you should be able to come up with a number. However it isn't always pulling 7 amps, but that is a good figure. I have thought about swapping to Lithium but still looking at that. The advantage to Lithium is the quick charging.
wow I have a 46 year old Roof TOP and that thing will drop the temp down to 50 in the camper but its also just a 8x22 camper. I have looked at the mine splits
Thanks for watching. Usually what causes a unit not to cool as well is it has lost some of the AC gas used for cooling which I would figure happened to mine. However an RV shop does not have the means or they don't want to test it. They told me to talk to a house AC guy. The house AC guys says we don't work on RV's. So the RV shop says all we do is replace them. But the mini split still does a better job efficiency wise and costs a lot less than replacing my old unit with a factory unit let a lone the noise. We are happy with the Mini Split we have and glad we made the change.
@@TignerAdventures Be nice if MIni Splits made RC AC's I have seen some and they are quite. I Won't Lie mine is loud, But is the Fan motor that is so loud. Witch I'm surprised it even still works after almost 50 Years. Yea its craze a HVAC guy would Work on them. But I can see why most wont anymore because of Most older stuff is R22 Like mine. Can they would have to install Service ports, and its Illegal to let any of the R22 escape. So they would have to find a way to recover the R22. All the new stuff has R410. What I like about Mini Splits is the ability to use the Heat pump and pull heat out of below 10 degree weather. or lower Depending on the Unit. Witch I love to have because then I would not have to worry about Propane so much just have it as back up. If I did anything like you did I have to find a place either on the Front of the Tung of my camper or on top to mount the condenser,
I dealt with Home Depot on a return from a delivery where I ordered a dishwasher online. What a nightmare. the customer service line told me I had to talk to the store that did the delivery. Problem is they either refused to answer the phone or would just pick it up and hang up. Took me complaining to the store manager to get them to even talk to me.
Absolutely the worse. it shouldn't be that way for sure. You would think in this day and age specifically customer service is king. Especially with social media. Thanks for watching.
My 30-y-o colemam ac cools the 28' rv off if its under 99°. Otherwise, I need an additional window ac to keep it under 80°.
Thanks for watching Tori Lynn. A good AC is good until it isn't. My guess is mine started losing coolant but they just didn't cut it anymore and they were so loud. Love the quiet Mini Split and it keeps us cool and runs off our solar. Perfect.
I don't know how many of the 193 comments say "Just unbolt the outdoor unit, and slide it forward to access the tubing connections and wiring when you need to." I would not have removed the tire and cut the second hole in the rear wall of your compartment.
For your access door, I might suggest finding a refrigerator vent cover, and cut a hole in your storage compartment door, then mount the refrigerator vent. They are normally about 16" wide and about 10" tall? They look normal on the side of a RV, and will allow some air into the door, and you don't really need to have more than 800 CFM going through it. On a very hot day, you can open that compartment door, but not while you are driving. When driving, there will be plenty of fresh air into that compartment, even if you where to leave the door closed and sealed. I think if you drill in some holes, you might regret that. The foam inside the door panel, that can then get wet and cause a problem.
I am very happy to know that the unit can run on your inverter. It will change the amperage when you are cooling and heating, and will lower the amperage once the room temperature is close to the set point. The 12,000 Btu unit that I installed was drawing 1,000 watts max, and slowly went down to 600 watts once the unit had run a few minutes and cooled the room. It works fine even at 20F outside.
Normally there is a forward drain fitting and a rear one, so you might need to connect a second drain line, so if the forward side is ever downhill from your unit, then it can drain out the forward side, or rearward side.
By the way, the compressor never runs backwards. There is a "Reversing Valve" that can direct the hot freon into your indoor unit in the heating mode and to the outdoor coil when in the cooling mode.
I bought some replacement door gas struts at a place called www.liftsupportsdepot.com/. They can get you based on the closed length, and the open length. I think my Bounder compartment doors where about 45 pounds, and your wider compartment might be a little more weight, so look for 55 pounds?
I might have used a #12 extension cord to plug in the outdoor unit to a new 120 volt receptacle in the compartment. Then if you ever are at a 30 amp RV service, and wanted to, you could plug the A/C directly into the power post 120 volt plug, and run the microwave and whatever else from the 30 amp cord.
Overall, this is a great video! Love it.
Thanks for watching and giving a detailed review. I like the fridge mount idea. So I used the rigid copper line so the I couldn't just pull the compressor out with out having that line bend. I placed the panel back into the tire slot so it works nice to pull out if I need to but still works for the tire compartment also. My unit does have the option to place the drain on either side but never mentioned about having to drains. In our case we only run it when the RV is level anyway so we have never had an issue. Thanks again for the good comments.
It cools 10 degrees and uses 2000 watts! Compared to MaxxAir at under 10W.
Thanks for watching Joe. So the reference of 10 degrees is the best the old AC could do is 10 degrees cooler than outside. So a 100 degree day would best be 90 in the rig. The new Mini Split can keep it at 70 easy on a 100 degree day. A Fan just blows hot air in or out so the Mini Split is nice.
I think you would be a lot better to cut out a couple of smaller sections and put in louvers. Lets air out easier and protects from rain better.
Thanks James for watching. I like that idea. I'm still just opening the door but want to change that. I am planning to drill a hole with a hole saw to see what makes the door up and if this would be an option.
I believe using wire mesh and metal frame would be the best option it would allow for best air flow with the door closed.
@@kevinking1738 But Louvers would Prevent Splashing Water From getting in as much!
Ok, so it's quieter BUT how well does it cool in the summer, especially in AZ. Some numbers would help tremendously.
Thanks for watching Joe and great question. So it depends on a lot of different things. But we normally set it at 70 and it usually gets so cold we have to move it up during the day. But the hotter it is and more humid it does take more power to run it. The direction you park, whether your awning is out and things like that will make a difference on the performance. Also in our case we have one head unit so the back room usually is warmer by 10 degrees. Fans help out there. A 2 head unit would be nice but then it draws more power and you have to have someplace to put the head units inside. Also if you start it early and let it control the temp instead of waiting until your rig is 80 or 90 helps a lot on power usage. But let's compare: 1. couldn't run my old units on my solar at all without buying a $300 easy start unit for each AC. 2. Even running it on generator or power pole it never was cooler than 10 degrees from outside. So this is best by a long shot. Tip on parking direction: park so your awning side is in the afternoon sun. This keeps the sun off your rig more in the hot afternoon which allows the unit to work easier. Hope that helps.
Simple when you have a complete shop with tools.
Thanks for watching Terry. It is nice to know people who have all the tools you might need. Its makes he job easier but I've done a lot of things with just the things I carry. Would love to buy a welder. The problem is carrying all that stuff.
I hate to tell ya this but they make ceiling mounted mini splits now.
Thanks for watching. Of course they do. lol. But the problem with RV ones are they carry an RV Price. If I was to do it again I would for sure want to look at all the options. Even standard mini splits have changed.
@@TignerAdventuresYou still can't go wrong with the wall units, I've installed one in my garage and wish I had seen the recessed ceiling ones also but it's still better than what I had before.
So this is a mini split heat pump, not just an a/c unit. Also your clearance should include intake from the bottom which is not a typical install. No need to cut access holes.
Thanks for watching Ken. It does also have a heat option because it just runs it backwards basically. We don't use this because it is easier and cheaper in most cases for us to use our propane heater. But when that quit we did use the heat pump option until I fixed the heater.
The real test for a mini split would be to bring it to TX right now, it was 113 just the other day
True, that would be a great test. But I would rather go somewhere that is cool. That is the nice thing about wheels. But if you can't move I think this works pretty. good but it also depends on how much insulation you have. For example we notice a big difference on how we park or if we place reflectics in the windows. Thanks for watching.
@@TignerAdventures I spent 13 years in Alaska where housing was always at a premium, always wished some RV builder would build an RV designed for those extreme temperatures, Im sure the thickness of the walls would cut back on the interior room but still...
Great video. I live full time in my camper and wanted to do a mini split. I noticed they make a ceiling cassette. The opening is wider and would require cutting a larger square hole. I’m wondering, did you look into that option before you did your wall mount? Think it’s doable with the ceiling cassettes?
Thanks for watching. At the time I did mine I did not see any option for the ceiling. So I don't have any experience to answer that question. If the hold is bigger than 14" squared however that would be a real problem for an RV. The hole has a frame around the complete hold for the unit to mount too. If you. needed something bigger you would have to build a new frame. Mine is made out of Aluminum so that would be a problem. A house ceiling is on 16" centers (roof is 24" center" and an RV is 14". Or at least mine is.
@@TignerAdventures thanks for the response. I was hoping to find someone who has done a ceiling cassette mini split. I think cutting a bigger hole and welding braces to help support the unit seems like it’s possible to do. Just want to see if anyone has done it before I attempt I destroy my camper 😆
@@juspain1The problem isn't the hole, although it's an issue. Unless your inverter can do 220v, you can't use cassette as they all require 220v.
@@joeboxter3635 I thought they made a model that does 120v. I’ve seen people post about it in camper groups.
You really should use a micron gauge when you’re vacuuming out an air conditioning system. There’s no way to identify a small leak just using a gauge.
And just for clarification, the little line in cooling is also low pressure. The only time is high-pressure is when it’s in heating.
Thanks for watching Bill. Good information. I can't remember all the times but you are suppose to leave it under pressure for a period to see if it falls. I also sprayed all of my connections with soapy water after I charged it to see if I seen any bubbles. I can see where a better gauge could help.
Would a Soft-start help with the 8-11 amp difference ?
Thanks for watching. So a Soft-start would help as far as startup on the inverter or anything you. were plugged into that couldn't take that large startup force. But it wouldn't make it work any better as far as cooling goes. Ours just wouldn't cool anymore and needed to be replaced. But keep in mind a soft-start costs between 300-400 and you have to have one for each AC unit you want to fun. Mini Splits don't have the bid draw so they never need a soft-start.
Great video! I have a question, have you had a chance to try it in warmer weather? I was wondering if it cools your RV off better than a rooftop unit?
Oh yes. It works very nice. Easily takes it to 72 when it is 90+ out. Best decision we ever made. The old unit best was 10 degrees lower than the outside temp. I have taken both AC units off the roof. We also have added a Cielo controller which allows us to manage the temp any where in the world as long as it has a wifi connection in the rig. Thanks for asking and watching.
@@TignerAdventures I was hoping to hear that, we have a newer fifth wheel and the best I can get is maybe 15°, not good enough for me when it’s 95 inside It only takes it down to 80 and that’s still too hot.
Just a little update. The AC is working great and most of the day it is 78 in the rig. We are in an RV Park and the way they have us parked our drivers side is in the direct west sun. I did a temp test on the outside and the passenger side was 84 and the drivers side was 140. So at 99 the inside of the rig got to 85 for a few hours. If you have room it would be nice to install a 2 head unit. However it may not run on our solar which is doing very well. Parked facing East is the best solar production and also the rig stays cool the complete day.
@@TignerAdventures Thanks for the update, I believe we would be much happier with two heads !
I'm guessing you never used the generator which is why you removed it for the ac install?
Thanks for watching Danny. You are correct. We usually only run off our solar so I kept forgetting to run the generator 2 hours each month to exercise it so decided it wasn't worth keeping. It was big and used a lot of gas when I ran it. I purchased a little Honda style generator and can pull that out if I need to. My old one ran an hour on 1 gallon of gas and this little guy will run 6 hours if I need to run it.
It’s called customer disservice! Home Depot is well known for it.
Thanks for watching. I just hate the fact they grab your money as soon as you place the order and then you are on their terms. People say they don't like Amazon but at least they don't bill you until the item ships. I don't have issues if it is in store as much.
I'm going to put a minisplit in my pizza trailer :)
Thanks for watching. You'll love that. I'm sure it gets hot in there.
Any problems with it keeping the back of the rv hot or cool?
Thanks for watching. I don't use the heat option so I can't answer that. But it would heat or cool the room it is in more than any side rooms. It also depends on the insulation and size of your unit. If you turn the unit on sooner than later that can help also and fans work nice. If we come back when it is hot then to help get the main unit cooled down fast we close the back of the unit. Little things like that make it work nice. No matter what it works a lot better than the old units we had before.
where did you install the electrical disconnect?
Good observation Taylor. I remember having one on my AC units on my house but all this called for was a 20 amp breaker in the panel. Maybe it is because it was only 110 power. I would never mess up. lol. But I really didn't see it in the manual.
How about a cool HOOD SCOOP from a HotRod?
That is a cool idea Brian. Thanks for watching.
Where did you place the generator?
Thanks for watching Kyle. In my case I pretty much always run on solar so I sold that generator. I do have a small Honda style one that will run my battery charger if I need too. My complete rig can run off my batteries including the mini split.
What is your guess on total hours for this project?
Good Question. I started in June and finished in September. Almost all of that time was waiting on the Mini Split to get delivered. So it is hard to say because I did so many little things here and there and I was taping things. But I would guess 8 hours to prep inside space area and 8 hours to prep outside. Install took 2 days. So probably about 4-5 full days total once I have everything. I could do it in a week easy next time. But I don't like to push things since I am retired you know. LOL
I will never order anything again from Home Depot. The same thing happened to me with a ladder. They couldn't even tell me where it was, nor would they cancel my order till it arrived. I said, so if it never arrives, I won't get a refund? The guy shrugged his shoulders, so I told them the date I was leaving (like a month later) and that if it wasn't in before then I was going to call my credit card company and dispute the payment, which I finally did. It never did arrive.
That sure is a small head unit for a 12kBtu mini-split. The space above my door is only 32" wide so mine wouldn't fit there. I recently installed a 12k Btu EG-4 mini-split in my MH and the head unit is 42 1/2" wide! I guess that's because it is a 28.5 Seer-2 unit. The plus side is that I can run it all night and it uses no more than 1/3 of my 15.5kwh battery, even in heat mode. And talk about quiet, I can't even hear it run unless it's on turbo mode and then I can just barely hear it.
Thanks for watching. I don't understand how HD can get away with that. Really irritating for sure. Above my door isn't the most efficient place but it works great for us. I have looked around and really don't have any other place. So I locked out I have that spot without major remodeling.
So, in hot weather does the cold air get to the rear of the coach? or do you need to use supplemental fans? condensation on front windshield? What have you done about the proper ventilation of the condenser unit? did you seal up the front roof AC? have you considered putting in a couple of 12v computer fans in your old AC roof ducting to move the air to the rear of the coach? I liked the presentation of your improvement... thank you for not declaring your education pedigree....
So Roy in hot weather we use our ceiling fans to circulate the air. But you may need to use some fans to blow air to the back depending on when you start cooling. We have found that if we use the unit all day then the back stays fairly cool. But it depends what side the sun is on also as it can heat up one of the walls which doesn't help. Same issue if you used the old units. But there usually will always be a difference from the front to the back. But just make the front colder if you want it cooler in the back. We also have a small fan that we can use if we need to blow air right on us at night. This has been more of an issue back in the East with the high humidity. But we used it non stop for 2 months in Georgia and we were fine. No condensation anywhere as the mini split takes the humidity out of the air. We get quite a stream of water running out the condensate hose. My condenser has about 18" in back and not much on the sides. I still have a door so I open it and it blows the hot air out from there. Seems to work fine. Planning to build a grill this winter for it. As far as the roof ac openings I installed a Maxair fan in each so they look finished. Never thought of installing fans and using the duct work. Good idea though. Might have to look into that some time. I really enjoy having the extra roof fans though. We set them to blow air in during the evening and night when we can. Hope this helps. My channel is not about being better than anyone. We are all in this together and happy to help where I can. Let me know if you have any other questions. You are welcome to email us also at dream@tigneradventures.com. Although I'm sure others have the same questions you do. Thanks for watching.
What year is your RV???
Thanks for watching. Our rig is a 1994 Ford F53 Frame.
Tons of mini splits for sale on Ebay.......
Thats great to know Ted. Good resource. Look into a double head unit. I'm not sure what amps it would draw or if you have space but it would be a little easier to cool the unit. The bedroom gets a little warm but the fan helps pull the cool air back. Thanks for watching.
That tire is gonna throw rocks a debris all over the unit
Thanks for watching Patrick. We have never had an issue and we do a lot of boondocking on gravel roads.
10:51 This is why you pay with a credit card and chargeback so you don't have to have your money in limbo
Yep, lesson learned. Thanks for watching.
I like at 70 in my room.
Thanks for watching. It is nice and so quiet.
Try cleaning the grime on the wallplates.
Interesting comment Julie. You know the issue when cleaning. Once you start you basically have to clean it all.
But since the video my wife has gone behind my greasy hands to clean all those things. Sometime it seams a lost cause. But it really is much more noticeable since I put a brand new one in so the real fix is to replace all the switches or accept the yellowing of age. Thanks for watching and I hope your install goes smooth.
There was this pandemic that was going on , products all over the world are being delayed. And you keep moving oh my God
Thanks for watching Robert. Our general rule is to life life to its fullest. There is always something happening in the world and if we waited until life was perfect we would never do anything. Everyday is an adventure and we love living the adventure.
Self tapping screws don’t work well for wood. They make to large of holes in wood. Should normal wood screws.
True George. I'm guessing you are referring to me mounting the board above the door? I am screwing the board to the aluminum studs in the wall with the self tappers. I find that easier than drilling a hole and screwing regular metal screws in. Thanks for watching.
this isnt going to work not enough air flow over condensor
Thanks for watching Raymond. It has been working great for 3 years now. Best upgrade I installed.
great
Another reason for me to not buy a class B van by big manufacturers.
Thanks for watching Phil. You know the saying the bigger they are the harder it is to cool them. With us 2 we feel comfortable in our 36 foot Class A but my wife has been talking that it would be nice to downsize more, so who knows.
I want to do this .. but my Toyhauler bumper pull has ducted AC/
Thanks for watching. Mine had ducted AC also and I just by passed it. Someone was telling me they have a unit out now that sits on your roof and feeds into the ducting. I have not looked for it and they didn't have anymore info than that. But if you want to keep the ducting you may want to search around and see what is new.
NO NO NO, absolutely NOT! Never EVER leave your wires like that especially in a moving vehicle! That piece of insulation will fall off and the wires can short! This is against the electrical code!
Man you have put some time into this. I had to go back and watch this again to see all the things you are commenting out. I try to do things by code but have watched several electricians do that. Also I have done work in a number of states and they seem to have different ideas of what code is. But you have a great point. Thanks for commenting.
Never order from HD.
Yep, learned that the hard way. Thanks for watching.
Actually, you made a terrible mistake. You do not bend them straight downwards and then bring them back up and around. This will in fact damage the tubes. These are built by design to be bent from the left side on around to backside and continue around to right side.
Interesting. I thought I followed the example on my instruction book. However in looking at it I can kind of see what you are saying. Either way it said in the book they don't recommend doing that and to proceed slowly and cautiously. I guess I lucked out since it has been working great for a couple years now. But the diagram in the book does leave a little to be desired.
I don’t think we want these old Rv roof A/Cs installed any more . So inefficient
They are pretty inefficient and not serviceable like a home one. They just want to replace them. Thanks for watching.
Took out your 2nd A/C and then complain your 1 A/C can't keep your rig cool, duh!
LOL. I think you missed the point. The old AC units didn't cool the unit more than 10 degrees cooler than outside. So on a 100-degree day, it was still at least 90 inside. On a 30 amp service, you can only run one AC unit at a time. When I pulled out the one AC I figured out the wiring that would allow both to run if you were running the generator. Most RV parks don't let you run a generator so that wasn't a good option either. It may have done better if I did try running both but they were both very old and not efficient. This Mini Split will easily freeze us out on a 100-degree day. And this one will run off my batteries where the old ones never would. Thanks for watchinbg.
Oh WOW .... NO LOUD Sound Warning .... Heck , could've muted it with editing ? ...
Sorry Lee. It has been a while since I did that video but I usually set all my sound at the same level setting but that was loud when it was on because it was really loud when it was running. I'll keep that in mind going forward. Thanks for watching.
Too much unnecessary talk
Thanks for the comment Zoltan. I want to make sure and explain things well. However you make a good point and my wife has mentioned the same thing from time to time on other videos. I'll work on that. Hope the video was of use and thanks for watching.
@@TignerAdventures I don’t think it was too much talk. For someone planning to tackle that and without any experience that info is priceless. I like what you’ve done.
As a newbie to owning a used RV that I am renovating solo for full time living, believe me, I appretiate ANY extra tips and info and can easily ffwd or ignore what I do not need. Thanks SOOOO much for all your helpful info and GREAT camera angles to capture the details!
Just buy a new roof top. They’re much quieter.
No they're not. Mini splits are almost silent bc they are variable. Rooftops always have been and still are notoriously loud. I deal with both as a very experienced HVAC mechanic every day.
@@josheakins5137 well, I just had a new Coleman Mach 3 installed on r.v. roof and it’s Very quiet . What I meant in my first comment was the new roof tops are quieter than the originals.
Thanks Josh. I agree. You can't really hear our when it is running. We don't have to turn up the tv either. lol
Sorry to give you. a thumbs down on this comment but mini splits are so much quieter. My buddy. just had a new one installed and it is still loud. One thing is it is much easy to replace a like item. But if you want better then I would go with a Mini Split anyday.
@@TignerAdventures No problem on the thumbs down. I won't lose sleep. I like to keep the R.V. as stock as possible, so if I had to pass it along it would be equipped as it came from the factory. It's a 2006 Expedition, and it still looks new, paint and all. Cheers.
cool stuff. For an air grate, instead of drilling holes: buy a pre drilled grate and screw it to both sides of that compartment. Of course, you'll need to permanently remove the existing door.. if you need to get in there, its easy. Just unscrew the grate.
Anyway, thats my idea
Thanks for watching Ken and thanks for the suggestion. I have been looking around for something that would fir the bill. I would really like to find an aluminum piece. For now I still just open the door.
I would have never removed the generator. Was that an 1800rpm ?
Rear bumper area would have been the best place to mount the compressor. Just sayin.
Thanks for watching. Our rig really doesn't have a rear bumper. I is just a fiberglass looking one. We used the generator very little so I would go months forgetting exercise it. I now have a little Honda style one that we can pull out if we need it. So for we have used that 5 days this summer. The other thing you have to be careful of is that your bumper doesn't move. I have heard of people having issues with that and the copper tubing breaking.
Well said sir. Most bumpers are frame mounted so the body would flex separately from the bumper in that case. @@TignerAdventures