I just changed the intake gasket on my 2008 Corolla (with 50,000 miles ) Toyota part number = 17171-22060 (Gasket, Intake) = orange in color. I wrote down ALL OF THE STEPS I TOOK in dis-assembly and re-assembly, and here they are: - 1) Unscrew the ONE 10mm nut and ONE 10mm bolt holding the engine cover on, then pull up on the 2 plastic pull-tab-nuts holding the rear of the engine cover on, and remove the engine cover. - 2) open up the spring clamp and pull off the vacuum hose from the front of the valve cover. - 3) open up the 2 spring clips holding closed the FILTER BOX, and pull out the air filter. Leave the air filter box cover open and completely separated from the bottom of the air filter box. This way you do no need to disconnect the air duct from the Filter Box). - 4) un-clamp the air duct from the THROTTLE BODY, and pull it off the throttle body. no need to unplug any hoses or wiring from the air duct this way). Roll the filter box cover / air duct backwards/towards-the-rear, 90 degrees. (this gets everything out of the way). - 5) Remove the ‘larger’ vacuum hose from the side of intake manifold. - 6) Remove the ‘smaller’ vacuum hose that is behind the ‘larger’ hose that has just been removed. - 7) Unplug the electrical connector on the rear of the THROTTLE BODY. - 8) Remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the THROTTLE BODY onto the intake manifold. ( 10mm ) The 2 bolts / 2 nuts holding the throttle body are ONLY tightened to 80 in-lbs (inch pounds) Pull the Throttle Body off of the intake manifold, and then push that throttle body to the right, out of the way. Leave the coolant lines connected to the throttle body. - 9) Remove the 4 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the intake manifold on. ( 12mm socket ) (a) Remove the bolt way down, below the throttle body. (b) Remove the 2 ‘upper’ nuts at the top of the intake manifold. (careful not to drop the nuts). (c) Remove the 3 ‘lower’ bolts, slightly lower on the top of the intake manifold. NOTE: on the most right-side bolt; it is the bolt on the top, not the one under it. The intake manifold bolts should be tightened to 22 ft-lbs (foot pounds ). ------------------------------------------------ - 10) Now that the 2 nuts are off, you can flip the wire harness brackets up and out of the way. - 11) Pull the intake manifold away from the engine slightly, to gain access to the small vacuum hose that is located behind the throttle body area. Disconnect this hose from the intake manifold also. (THIS IS THE HOSE THAT GOES TO THE BRAKE BOOSTER ! IT IS EASILY OVERLOOKED WHEN RE-ASSEMBLING.) - 12) Pull away the intake manifold from the engine, then maneuver it out of the engine bay. (Put the intake manifold onto the floor/ground, so you don’t risk dropping it and cracking it.) - 13) Clean the steel surface of the engine with a plastic ruler as a scraper, then with a clean cloth, to make sure no old gasket material is stuck to the steel. - 14) Pull out the old gasket and install the new rubber gasket into the groves where the old gasket came out of. - 15) Push the intake manifold back into the engine bay, and onto the engine, and reverse the steps, starting at step 11). The intake manifold bolts should be tightened to 22 ft-lbs (foot pounds ). The 2 bolts / 2 nuts holding the throttle body are ONLY tightened to 80 in-lbs (inch pounds)
i had this change for the code p0171 but still engine light came.. it can be any thing guys...my next attempt it to change is the Exhaust flange gasket...hopefully that will work !!! wish me luck guys !!!!
Hello, thanks for your video. One question, I have a 2008 Toyota Corolla with 230,000 km of manual gearbox, 1.8-liter engine, type 1ZZ-FE. The fault is that when you turn it on it starts with 1300 rpm and as it warms up it goes up to 2000, that is, it does the opposite since I understand it should go down to about 900 rpm. and when I'm hot I go out and when I make the gear changes I see that the rpm's go up and down between 2000 and 1000 rpm's and when I keep going the minimum is 2000 rpm. If I leave it running stopped the car stays at 2000 rpm's. I clarify that with the Toyota scanner it did not give an error and also the check engine light does not come on. Could it be a vacuum leak in the intake? should i just change the intake gasket?
Hello, I did it and it worked but after I finished tightening everything and plugged all the hoses back in, the car idles very low and is about to stall out. Is there something else to do. I mean since there is no leak any more the throttle should be more open than before at idle. I unplued the battery to reset everything, it is enough? thanks in advance,
Well as it's been a year since you have posted, im sure your car is fine now from that issue. What happens on most cars more more specifically toyotas, when you un hook the battery your idle is reset. It needs to relearn idle after you do that. But what I would recommend is to un hook your batter again and clean your throttle body very well with some throttle body cleaner. Then re hook your battery so when it relearns the idle, it has learned with a cleaned throttle body. What happens is your car has adjusted it's idle to the dirty throttle body and when you reset your idle by un hooking the battery, it now needs to relearn back to the dirty throttle body and can cause idle issues. But all you need to do is just let it run and drive it a couple times and everything will be alright.
![ARGENTINA vs. CHILE [3-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 7](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/De3AWmXzhuA/mqdefault.jpg)
I just changed the intake gasket on my 2008 Corolla (with 50,000 miles )
Toyota part number = 17171-22060 (Gasket, Intake) = orange in color.
I wrote down ALL OF THE STEPS I TOOK in dis-assembly and re-assembly, and here they are:
- 1) Unscrew the ONE 10mm nut and ONE 10mm bolt holding the engine cover on, then pull up on the 2 plastic pull-tab-nuts holding the rear of the engine cover on, and remove the engine cover.
- 2) open up the spring clamp and pull off the vacuum hose from the front of the valve cover.
- 3) open up the 2 spring clips holding closed the FILTER BOX, and pull out the air filter. Leave the air filter box cover open and completely separated from the bottom of the air filter box. This way you do no need to disconnect the air duct from the Filter Box).
- 4) un-clamp the air duct from the THROTTLE BODY, and pull it off the throttle body. no need to unplug any hoses or wiring from the air duct this way). Roll the filter box cover / air duct backwards/towards-the-rear, 90 degrees. (this gets everything out of the way).
- 5) Remove the ‘larger’ vacuum hose from the side of intake manifold.
- 6) Remove the ‘smaller’ vacuum hose that is behind the ‘larger’ hose that has just been removed.
- 7) Unplug the electrical connector on the rear of the THROTTLE BODY.
- 8) Remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the THROTTLE BODY onto the intake manifold. ( 10mm )
The 2 bolts / 2 nuts holding the throttle body are ONLY tightened to 80 in-lbs (inch pounds)
Pull the Throttle Body off of the intake manifold, and then push that throttle body to the right, out of the way. Leave the coolant lines connected to the throttle body.
- 9) Remove the 4 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the intake manifold on. ( 12mm socket )
(a) Remove the bolt way down, below the throttle body.
(b) Remove the 2 ‘upper’ nuts at the top of the intake manifold. (careful not to drop the nuts).
(c) Remove the 3 ‘lower’ bolts, slightly lower on the top of the intake manifold.
NOTE: on the most right-side bolt; it is the bolt on the top, not the one under it.
The intake manifold bolts should be tightened to 22 ft-lbs (foot pounds ).
------------------------------------------------
- 10) Now that the 2 nuts are off, you can flip the wire harness brackets up and out of the way.
- 11) Pull the intake manifold away from the engine slightly, to gain access to the small vacuum hose that is located behind the throttle body area. Disconnect this hose from the intake manifold also.
(THIS IS THE HOSE THAT GOES TO THE BRAKE BOOSTER ! IT IS EASILY OVERLOOKED WHEN RE-ASSEMBLING.)
- 12) Pull away the intake manifold from the engine, then maneuver it out of the engine bay.
(Put the intake manifold onto the floor/ground, so you don’t risk dropping it and cracking it.)
- 13) Clean the steel surface of the engine with a plastic ruler as a scraper, then with a clean cloth, to make sure no old gasket material is stuck to the steel.
- 14) Pull out the old gasket and install the new rubber gasket into the groves where the old gasket came out of.
- 15) Push the intake manifold back into the engine bay, and onto the engine, and reverse the steps, starting at step 11).
The intake manifold bolts should be tightened to 22 ft-lbs (foot pounds ).
The 2 bolts / 2 nuts holding the throttle body are ONLY tightened to 80 in-lbs (inch pounds)
Thanks for sharing
Man your clutch man I have the same code in my 06 I’m go tackle this thank you
i had this change for the code p0171 but still engine light came.. it can be any thing guys...my next attempt it to change is the Exhaust flange gasket...hopefully that will work !!! wish me luck guys !!!!
Hello, thanks for your video. One question, I have a 2008 Toyota Corolla with 230,000 km of manual gearbox, 1.8-liter engine, type 1ZZ-FE. The fault is that when you turn it on it starts with 1300 rpm and as it warms up it goes up to 2000, that is, it does the opposite since I understand it should go down to about 900 rpm. and when I'm hot I go out and when I make the gear changes I see that the rpm's go up and down between 2000 and 1000 rpm's and when I keep going the minimum is 2000 rpm. If I leave it running stopped the car stays at 2000 rpm's. I clarify that with the Toyota scanner it did not give an error and also the check engine light does not come on. Could it be a vacuum leak in the intake? should i just change the intake gasket?
Hello, I
did it and it worked but after I finished tightening everything and plugged all
the hoses back in, the car idles very low and is about to stall out. Is there
something else to do. I mean since there is no leak any more the throttle
should be more open than before at idle. I unplued the battery to reset
everything, it is enough? thanks in advance,
Well as it's been a year since you have posted, im sure your car is fine now from that issue. What happens on most cars more more specifically toyotas, when you un hook the battery your idle is reset. It needs to relearn idle after you do that. But what I would recommend is to un hook your batter again and clean your throttle body very well with some throttle body cleaner. Then re hook your battery so when it relearns the idle, it has learned with a cleaned throttle body. What happens is your car has adjusted it's idle to the dirty throttle body and when you reset your idle by un hooking the battery, it now needs to relearn back to the dirty throttle body and can cause idle issues. But all you need to do is just let it run and drive it a couple times and everything will be alright.